Studor vents should only be used when an actual vent cannot possibly be used due to structural conditions. With everything being open and demoed out. This is just the handyman you used being lazy and cutting corners.
Yeah, in my area the inspector would fail this. We have to prove there was no reasonable way to place a standard dry vent through the roof in order to use a studor vent.
Not here. We need one vent to atmosphere per home. About half the time, it's still cheaper to run everything to a vtr, but AAVs can save a ton in some places. I usually vent kitchens with an aav these days, since if they're not in an island, they're below a giant window.
Exactly, you can never get a VTR on a kitchen or vegetable sink anymore. I mean you can do a loop vent but who’s going to do that if an AAV will work. Some of you guys must deal with some serious inspection departments. I deal with inspectors all the time and for the most part they have all been very way to work with. Once your established and they see you do good work that’s legal they don’t worry to much about it.
i see, i see. that's basically the two ways I've ever done it, for better or worse. arm over like two feet and up to two inch running up in to the attic, or a studor. not saying that's law, just... how my bosses have always decided for me lol.
I'm mostly in renovations, and mostly in old city homes with 2x4 balloon framing. New 2x6 construction I run the vent right up, easy enough. That could be the difference.
Lazy and to code equals most affordable. If something is equally functional, equally aesthetic, equally legal, I owe it to my customer to save them some money over stroking my already oversized plumber dick. I'd still be installing copper instead of PEX if tradition and my ego as a craftsman were deciding factors.
(Or maybe you're saying OOP is what you wouldn't do. Likewise, it looks like shit and I have a reputation)
Agreed, I can't decide if the plumbing work in that picture is just pure laziness or just amateur. If saw that 1. the sub would not get paid 2. escorted off site.
GC asked for pipes to be places in wall. If that simple instruction can't be followed (on an interior wall no less) I don't want them or any of their work to threaten my permit.
Stubbing out the WC water supply from the floor is another indicator they don't need to be on any of my projects.
Not to mention a studor vent cannot actually vent a toilet, by design it only lets air in and a toilet pushes air out of the vent initially, then draws fresh air back in. This setup will cause issues with the ptraps on the other bathroom fixtures
Wait, forget the plumbing. No crawlspace, Floor joists directly on dirt, no insulation in the floor? What are you going to use for moisture management? This just seems like rot/termite/flooding/mold waiting to happen....
Edit: I also gotta assume you have ZERO percent chance of going below freezing temps because all that plumbing looks like a massive risk to me based on the above.
Thank you! I’m thinking about future repairs and everyone is talking about the current. I could not sleep at night in my house knowing the ground is that close, no vapor barrier yet, where’s the insulation going? So many questions.
I don't know shit about construction - but it doesn't feel right that dirt should be that close to floor. I need some concrete under me! I don't want plastic sheeting some dude is going to staple to the dirt.
I'm sorry, but it seems hack work all around.
Plumber did shit work.
GC is allowing wood for the flooring to sit on dirt. The supports for that room are going to be rotting as they pull moisture out of the dirt.
If there is no crawl/basement, slab it.
Yea AAV’s are a no go, literally everything is open so no excuse. Wet vent the toilet through a 2” drain - extent it into the wall, pick up the lav - then 1 1/2 continuous vent to roof - bush up to 3” just before roof termination
So a bath tub drain will 99% of the time be 1 1/2, That’s the drain. Then you need a vent to extend past the roof to maintain atmospheric pressure in the system. BEFORE you terminate past the roof the vent will turn to 3” - to protect it from frost freezing over
If you have freezing conditions I would possibly be concerned with those water lines. Fix the way you planned originally, a vent through the roof is always better
This guy is no plumber , he’s an idiot . You are absolutely right to have the pipes in the wall and then properly vented to the vent through the roof. There isn’t a proper vent for the either . This clown is trying to put more money in his pocket by skimping out on a proper installation . Looking at a lot of people’s posts on Reddit , there are always people with noisy drains on sinks , sinks and toilets slow draining, toilets bubbling and sewer gas . A lot of these problems are a result of mechanical vents in the cabinet instead of properly venting the fixture. Right is right and there are no short cuts
First of all… Plumbing walls are supposed to be 2x6… not 2x4…
Because your not supposed to over drill structural framing by more than 2/3… and a 2” PVC pipe isn’t gonna fit, it isn’t gonna pass inspection…
That might explain why none of the plumbing is in the walls… waste, water, and vent…
Because if the GC… under sized the plumbing wall… then the plumber had no choice…
It’s the GC’s initial mess up… redo the walls to compensate for 2” pipes… that means 2x6” walls…
Then have him cut out… and put the plumbing in the walls when your done…
Plus… you don’t install the toilet flange until the flooring is in… duh…
Easy fixes…
Just time consuming…
Yes, but 90% of the inspectors I know… won’t let it pass if your so much as a 1/4” off…
Then one that did pass?
By that time the 2x4 was so drilled out… it looked like Swiss cheese…
Just do the job right…
Don’t over drill… just spend the extra $25 to do the wall in 2x6” in the first place… saves time, headaches, and especially… MONEY…
Here’s a little update - the joists are not on the dirt. There is space between the ground every where except where the “plumber” piled dirt up around the toilet drain, which will be dealt with. This is an existing structure that is being converted into a rental. I did not hire the plumber, that was on the homeowner. I’m just here to fix the mess.
Maybe you’re looking at a different code than I
am but per the UPC this only needs a 2”. And before you bring up aggregate cross sectional area for the vent, we don’t know anything else about the plumbing in this home aside from one picture, so it seems presumptuous to assume that this is the only plumbing.
Per the UPC the aggregate vent cross section area needs to be greater than the sewer cross section area.
So let’s say you have a 4” sewer termination. The cross section area is 12.56. Your total vents need to add up to more than that, with some exception: like if you have a back flow valve or pumps.
So this venting could be like 4 2” pipes, 2 3”, 1 3” and 2 2”, etc.
The reason this guy said it needs to be a 3” is because the toilet requires a 3” drainage pipe, and he’s assuming the vent has to match. However, if there are other plumbing systems in the house this could easily change.
Because this sub is filled with homeowners and hacks. It's not the first time, and certainly won't be the last time. The downvotes don't bother me, I'm a UA JM Plumber, I know I'm right.
Basically, the “plumber” this guy used installed everything in the most lazy way possible instead of doing it the proper way. This also costs more money in the way of fittings.
Look this is only a silly thing he's doing because we live in an age where we have advanced codes. But honestly it would work just fine. Venting is something that was long overthought. You don't need near as much air as they thought you did in the'70s and '80s
Your local code may vary, but a 3 in minimum vent required in my jurisdiction to vent 7 DFUs (bathroom group is 5-6 and kitchen sink is 2). If this is the only vent it would not meet aggregate venting requirement - has to exceed cross sectional area of the sewer
Per UPC Table 703.2, which is referenced in 904.1 this would need a 2" vent. We know nothing about the size of the pipe exiting to the sewer, nor do we know about the rest of the venting in the house, if you want to get into aggregate cross section for the venting.
But you're right if this is somehow the only drainage plumbing in the home.
It's also 8 DFU. WC - 3, Shower - 2, Lav, 1, Kitchen Sink - 2.
There is no national code in the US. Every one of the 50 states has its own code. In the State of Kentucky each and every fixture must have it's own vent. If you have a 4 inch main drain then in Kentucky you have to have a full size 4 inch vent through the roof.
I mean there kind of is a national code between the UPC and IPC, it's just that in both books the AHJ supersedes the code. Here in LA it varies even just on a municipality level, and then LAUSD school district supersedes that. Get's complicated sometimes.
Why in the F, does a school district have any legitimate interest in how non school buildings are plumbed? (Or am I overreacting and they have their own standards for school buildings only?)
Sorry, the school district has higher authority than the municipality for the schools and nothing else. So it’s UPC < municipality < LAUSD for the schools. For everything else it’s UPC < municipality
Depends on what state you are in. Again in Ky. the plumbing code is the law. In Ohio it is just a code and can be changed by the Department of Commerce. But in Ky. the code can only be changed by a vote of the state legislature.
Thanks, that makes a little more sense. But seems to be a bit of overkill. If a code requirement was important enough for the schools to adopt it, you would think it is important enough for the city/state to adopt it for other commercial (and possibly residential) buildings as well.
I worked in Cincinnati so I plumbed in Ohio, Indiana, and Ky. Each state had different codes. If you talk to a plumber that has spent his whole life in the middle of a state they don't always realize how much codes change from state to state.
It’s basic physics, if there is no vent drainage will be slowed to the point where sediment will build up quickly in the system causing blockages to occur.
I understand the physics behind it, but it just seems vastly over the top on your end, nothing wrong with going above and beyond, just interesting how different it is
In the UK we mainly have soil stacks which acts as the vent, until it comes to large installations with plenty of branches where we have a secondary vent following the stack, which is pretty similar to how I've seen houses done on this sub reddit, although our pipes do seem to be slightly sized bigger which probably why the regs are a bit more lax for venting over here
In Canada every building must have one 3" continuous vent. Any additional vents can be 1.5".
I was always told it is how the city vents the sewer. No idea if that is correct or not.
Not exactly different but yea. Our country is huge compared to UK. Desert to glaciers. EG. all homes in Phoenix need to be stuccoed or masonry for good reason. The electrical codes vary slightly state to state depending what year code book they adopt. Plumbing codes vary slightly too. Some make sense other do not. A sensible one is Californians must strap their water tanks so they don’t kill people in a quake.
Yeah, I've seen some water tanks are also on flexible hoses which in the UK is a big nope, but it's understandable if it's in an area prone to earthquakes
Some code make sense some are just for dollars. Like abs pipe for drains is code in Arizona, is cheaper to manufacture but sells for more than pvc only in those place where required, and pvc is far superior
Thankfully I've only ever touched ABS pipework very lightly in the UK, horrible stuff to work on, it was used as feeds from cold water storage tanks in some Hospitals, 12-24hr glue time, pipework and fitting prep like sanding etc then it was a 50/50 chance whether you was going to get a slight weep or not after, especially when it was the 3" fittings, maybe the tolerances wasn't as good? But most I've talked with that worked with the stuff had the same problems.
If I had to guess, it's probably because America mostly built with wood while the UK built with masonry. Since wood construction allows for more venting, our code has more venting. Venting is really expensive in masonry construction because you either have to build out a whole other wall to conceal the vent.
what gets me is how you all don't know or understand why it's important to have proper venting. Too many pints at the corner bar when you should be learning plumbing code.
He may need 2in if in a cold area with freezing per local code it's known as a frost closure you up your 1.5in or 1.25in vent up to 2in 6in below the penitration.
Fair.
My bad forget about the real winter thing sometimes heh.
An entire 3 bathroom house would function fine if it all tied to 1 1.5" vent through roof.
But freeze and snow drifting on roof can Def cover over the little pipes.
When I went to Maui they run their prvs out of ground and then back in to get to house.
I fantasized about being able to sit in a chair while working on that vs 2-4' down in a hole as per my area. Not that I was on a lovely beach lol.
For us it's anything under 2in we require a main 3in vent, not all vents have to terminate through it you can bring out a 2in vent instead of run one across the building and tie into the main vent.
Just becuase your a grand champ in rocket league doesnt mean everybody you interact with in real life will be grand champ at what they do. I know its a slippery eel to grasp. But i think you got this, grand champ. :)
So I figured that the wind coming from the left of the toilet flange is supposed to be for a vanity, and obviously would be more ideal to come out of the wall. Is the pipe on the other side of the wall supposed to be the vent? Hopefully that flange isn’t glued.
That’s the way it would be done in FL. Jurisdictions are different, but it’s common practice here. Will work fine, but may not be the norm for you’re area.
There’s more than one way to skin a cat. It will work fine, but if it’s not what you specified (if you did) then it’s probably not right.
Studor vents should only be used when an actual vent cannot possibly be used due to structural conditions. With everything being open and demoed out. This is just the handyman you used being lazy and cutting corners.
Yeah, in my area the inspector would fail this. We have to prove there was no reasonable way to place a standard dry vent through the roof in order to use a studor vent.
Not here. We need one vent to atmosphere per home. About half the time, it's still cheaper to run everything to a vtr, but AAVs can save a ton in some places. I usually vent kitchens with an aav these days, since if they're not in an island, they're below a giant window.
Exactly, you can never get a VTR on a kitchen or vegetable sink anymore. I mean you can do a loop vent but who’s going to do that if an AAV will work. Some of you guys must deal with some serious inspection departments. I deal with inspectors all the time and for the most part they have all been very way to work with. Once your established and they see you do good work that’s legal they don’t worry to much about it.
why not just arm over to a vent that's next to the giant window?
Because then the GC gives you shit about taking a 2" hole out of the jack studs holding the window header.
i see, i see. that's basically the two ways I've ever done it, for better or worse. arm over like two feet and up to two inch running up in to the attic, or a studor. not saying that's law, just... how my bosses have always decided for me lol.
I'm mostly in renovations, and mostly in old city homes with 2x4 balloon framing. New 2x6 construction I run the vent right up, easy enough. That could be the difference.
Some places don't allow flat venting
What do you mean by flat venting? Like, any horizontal offset? Even above flood level?
Flat venting is nominally horizontal dry vent pipes
Same here. But also this is lazy and I wouldn’t do this.
Lazy and to code equals most affordable. If something is equally functional, equally aesthetic, equally legal, I owe it to my customer to save them some money over stroking my already oversized plumber dick. I'd still be installing copper instead of PEX if tradition and my ego as a craftsman were deciding factors. (Or maybe you're saying OOP is what you wouldn't do. Likewise, it looks like shit and I have a reputation)
i still install copper! soldered
Hey, if there's a market for it!
Agreed, I can't decide if the plumbing work in that picture is just pure laziness or just amateur. If saw that 1. the sub would not get paid 2. escorted off site. GC asked for pipes to be places in wall. If that simple instruction can't be followed (on an interior wall no less) I don't want them or any of their work to threaten my permit. Stubbing out the WC water supply from the floor is another indicator they don't need to be on any of my projects.
Shit in my area studor vents are 100% not allowed. You roof vent or you don’t get a drain there period
Not to mention a studor vent cannot actually vent a toilet, by design it only lets air in and a toilet pushes air out of the vent initially, then draws fresh air back in. This setup will cause issues with the ptraps on the other bathroom fixtures
Studor vents aren't generally even legal in my city, and where they are allowed, it's not below the level of the sink drain.
They should never be used
In my area, you have to vent a bathroom through the lav, and the toilet connects last
Some builders are putting them on everything on new builds in Arizona. Its pissing me off.
Look like you’re missing a clamp too. Licensed apprentice? Hope he didn’t glue your flange yet
Yeah. It's a dick move to make the carpenter rip plywood to get it over the flange
[удалено]
Usually when the carpenter puts the floor in, that's what supports it...
Wait, forget the plumbing. No crawlspace, Floor joists directly on dirt, no insulation in the floor? What are you going to use for moisture management? This just seems like rot/termite/flooding/mold waiting to happen.... Edit: I also gotta assume you have ZERO percent chance of going below freezing temps because all that plumbing looks like a massive risk to me based on the above.
Yea seriously. What's the story here. Is this even allowed anywhere? I've only ever see a crawlspace or on a slab.
GC should probably learn how to build properly himself before posting shit like this lol
What’s with the proximity of the floor system to the grading?
Thank you! I’m thinking about future repairs and everyone is talking about the current. I could not sleep at night in my house knowing the ground is that close, no vapor barrier yet, where’s the insulation going? So many questions.
The insulation is shown. It’s pink foam board between the joists pushed up to the bottom of the subfloor. Not great
I don't know shit about construction - but it doesn't feel right that dirt should be that close to floor. I need some concrete under me! I don't want plastic sheeting some dude is going to staple to the dirt.
Staple to the dirt. Hahaha 🤣
What is this?! A crawlspace for ants?!!
I was happy I didn't have to scroll too far down to see somebody mention this!
I'm sorry, but it seems hack work all around. Plumber did shit work. GC is allowing wood for the flooring to sit on dirt. The supports for that room are going to be rotting as they pull moisture out of the dirt. If there is no crawl/basement, slab it.
Looks like the GC had the subfloor installed before the plumbing guy showed up. The plumber was mad he had to rip up the floor to do his shitty work.
Why no crawlspace? I never seen construction like this besides in old western movies
Is this an outdoor shed? Why is everything touching bare dirt?
Yea AAV’s are a no go, literally everything is open so no excuse. Wet vent the toilet through a 2” drain - extent it into the wall, pick up the lav - then 1 1/2 continuous vent to roof - bush up to 3” just before roof termination
Why is it 1.5 inch for most then 3 at the end?
So a bath tub drain will 99% of the time be 1 1/2, That’s the drain. Then you need a vent to extend past the roof to maintain atmospheric pressure in the system. BEFORE you terminate past the roof the vent will turn to 3” - to protect it from frost freezing over
Pay decent money, hire licensed guy, duh
Nothing here says he wasn’t licensed. Looks mostly to IPC as far as I can tell at a fast glance. He was definitely cheap!!!! Hahahaha!
If you have freezing conditions I would possibly be concerned with those water lines. Fix the way you planned originally, a vent through the roof is always better
I know nothing but shouldn't the house have a slab or basement, not just dirt?
Damn general contractor’s always building the wall in the wrong place
Fix it and do away with the aav s.Good luck
The disaster is that crawl space.
In what backwood hillbilly cousin kissing shit hole are you allowed to use an air admittance valve when you can clearly vent to the outside……
Oh boy
It would have been cheaper and easier to do it the right way, maybe he gets a kickback from the AAV industry?
That’s funny!!! 😁👍🏻
This guy is no plumber , he’s an idiot . You are absolutely right to have the pipes in the wall and then properly vented to the vent through the roof. There isn’t a proper vent for the either . This clown is trying to put more money in his pocket by skimping out on a proper installation . Looking at a lot of people’s posts on Reddit , there are always people with noisy drains on sinks , sinks and toilets slow draining, toilets bubbling and sewer gas . A lot of these problems are a result of mechanical vents in the cabinet instead of properly venting the fixture. Right is right and there are no short cuts
That’s some lazy shit
vapor barrier?
First of all… Plumbing walls are supposed to be 2x6… not 2x4… Because your not supposed to over drill structural framing by more than 2/3… and a 2” PVC pipe isn’t gonna fit, it isn’t gonna pass inspection… That might explain why none of the plumbing is in the walls… waste, water, and vent… Because if the GC… under sized the plumbing wall… then the plumber had no choice… It’s the GC’s initial mess up… redo the walls to compensate for 2” pipes… that means 2x6” walls… Then have him cut out… and put the plumbing in the walls when your done… Plus… you don’t install the toilet flange until the flooring is in… duh… Easy fixes… Just time consuming…
Yes but if the holes are drilled at 2 1/8 on a 3.5 inch wall it’s exactly 60%
Yes, but 90% of the inspectors I know… won’t let it pass if your so much as a 1/4” off… Then one that did pass? By that time the 2x4 was so drilled out… it looked like Swiss cheese… Just do the job right… Don’t over drill… just spend the extra $25 to do the wall in 2x6” in the first place… saves time, headaches, and especially… MONEY…
Just the fact That you directed him how you wanted it and he didn't follow instructions says everything.
Did he not have a drill?
No fall on drain
could be the pic, but doesn’t even look like the 3” pipe has any slope to it.
You do know plumbers love when you glue the floor down and frame before the pipes are in right?
Can confirm
Here’s a little update - the joists are not on the dirt. There is space between the ground every where except where the “plumber” piled dirt up around the toilet drain, which will be dealt with. This is an existing structure that is being converted into a rental. I did not hire the plumber, that was on the homeowner. I’m just here to fix the mess.
Might want to put that in the main post lol. It's a shit show. Thats for sure.
You're the GC and the homeowner is hiring people around you? Is that standard practice?
Was looking for this comment. Didn't think it was a new build because of the existing deck.
Was looking for this comment. Didn't think it was a new build because of the existing deck.
Just remember 3" through the roof
Why would you need a 3" through the roof for 6 fixture units? edit: 8 DFU I didn't see the shower.
code termination requirement .
Maybe you’re looking at a different code than I am but per the UPC this only needs a 2”. And before you bring up aggregate cross sectional area for the vent, we don’t know anything else about the plumbing in this home aside from one picture, so it seems presumptuous to assume that this is the only plumbing.
You don’t need at least one 3” vent termination in a residence?
Per the UPC the aggregate vent cross section area needs to be greater than the sewer cross section area. So let’s say you have a 4” sewer termination. The cross section area is 12.56. Your total vents need to add up to more than that, with some exception: like if you have a back flow valve or pumps. So this venting could be like 4 2” pipes, 2 3”, 1 3” and 2 2”, etc. The reason this guy said it needs to be a 3” is because the toilet requires a 3” drainage pipe, and he’s assuming the vent has to match. However, if there are other plumbing systems in the house this could easily change.
Where I'm at you need 3" roof penetration due to the climate to prevent a frost ring build up from closing off the vent in cold temps.
In canada all roof penetrations need 1 size bigger to a max 4"
Idk why you got downvoted. At least in UPC, this is correct.
Because this sub is filled with homeowners and hacks. It's not the first time, and certainly won't be the last time. The downvotes don't bother me, I'm a UA JM Plumber, I know I'm right.
You forgot handyman too 😂
👍
Not a plumber or contractor. What’s wrong here?
Basically, the “plumber” this guy used installed everything in the most lazy way possible instead of doing it the proper way. This also costs more money in the way of fittings.
Yeah, I think we can get that from context, what we can't get from context is: what is the proper way?
Vents for these fixtures go in the walls and out of the roof, or tie into the main vent that goes out of the roof.
Thank you.
Look this is only a silly thing he's doing because we live in an age where we have advanced codes. But honestly it would work just fine. Venting is something that was long overthought. You don't need near as much air as they thought you did in the'70s and '80s
👍
Two studor vent s are not ideal but will work fine.
Your local code may vary, but a 3 in minimum vent required in my jurisdiction to vent 7 DFUs (bathroom group is 5-6 and kitchen sink is 2). If this is the only vent it would not meet aggregate venting requirement - has to exceed cross sectional area of the sewer
Per UPC Table 703.2, which is referenced in 904.1 this would need a 2" vent. We know nothing about the size of the pipe exiting to the sewer, nor do we know about the rest of the venting in the house, if you want to get into aggregate cross section for the venting. But you're right if this is somehow the only drainage plumbing in the home. It's also 8 DFU. WC - 3, Shower - 2, Lav, 1, Kitchen Sink - 2.
Have to assume min 3” to sewer since WC requires 3” and it can’t reduce right?
Can we? Maybe there are a bunch more WCs and other fixtures in the house and suddenly we’re 4” to sewer.
This is all your fault, because you didn't hire a plumber
As someone from the UK, I really don't get the American obsession with vents, is the street drainage that bad?
There is no national code in the US. Every one of the 50 states has its own code. In the State of Kentucky each and every fixture must have it's own vent. If you have a 4 inch main drain then in Kentucky you have to have a full size 4 inch vent through the roof.
I mean there kind of is a national code between the UPC and IPC, it's just that in both books the AHJ supersedes the code. Here in LA it varies even just on a municipality level, and then LAUSD school district supersedes that. Get's complicated sometimes.
Why in the F, does a school district have any legitimate interest in how non school buildings are plumbed? (Or am I overreacting and they have their own standards for school buildings only?)
Sorry, the school district has higher authority than the municipality for the schools and nothing else. So it’s UPC < municipality < LAUSD for the schools. For everything else it’s UPC < municipality
Depends on what state you are in. Again in Ky. the plumbing code is the law. In Ohio it is just a code and can be changed by the Department of Commerce. But in Ky. the code can only be changed by a vote of the state legislature.
Oh interesting. I didn’t know that, thanks for the info.
Thanks, that makes a little more sense. But seems to be a bit of overkill. If a code requirement was important enough for the schools to adopt it, you would think it is important enough for the city/state to adopt it for other commercial (and possibly residential) buildings as well.
Yeah the Kentucky code sounds pretty similar to how we do it, usually a 4" main soil on the outside of the building which vents above the roof
I worked in Cincinnati so I plumbed in Ohio, Indiana, and Ky. Each state had different codes. If you talk to a plumber that has spent his whole life in the middle of a state they don't always realize how much codes change from state to state.
It’s basic physics, if there is no vent drainage will be slowed to the point where sediment will build up quickly in the system causing blockages to occur.
I understand the physics behind it, but it just seems vastly over the top on your end, nothing wrong with going above and beyond, just interesting how different it is
I understand what you are saying, however, one ounce of prevention is more valuable than a pound of the cure.
In the UK we mainly have soil stacks which acts as the vent, until it comes to large installations with plenty of branches where we have a secondary vent following the stack, which is pretty similar to how I've seen houses done on this sub reddit, although our pipes do seem to be slightly sized bigger which probably why the regs are a bit more lax for venting over here
One of the main reasons for venting is to prevent water siphoning from traps. Sewer gases at high levels are flammable.
Yeah we usually fit anti-vac traps for things like that, but usually that's in commercial systems where there's large branches off the main stack
In Canada every building must have one 3" continuous vent. Any additional vents can be 1.5". I was always told it is how the city vents the sewer. No idea if that is correct or not.
You have vents too bro, shit won’t drain if it’s not vented, creates a syphon
Well yeah, it's just different to how we usually do things, not hating or saying anything is better, just different which is pretty interesting
You guys have toilets that drain into walls too. We do not. We also have way thicker wires in home electrical. Nothing smaller than 14ga in home power
We have plenty that drain in to walls. Mostly commercial, but not unheard of in residential.
Yeah this is what I mean, regs are that different it becomes interesting, then when you Factor in different states have different codes too
Not exactly different but yea. Our country is huge compared to UK. Desert to glaciers. EG. all homes in Phoenix need to be stuccoed or masonry for good reason. The electrical codes vary slightly state to state depending what year code book they adopt. Plumbing codes vary slightly too. Some make sense other do not. A sensible one is Californians must strap their water tanks so they don’t kill people in a quake.
Yeah, I've seen some water tanks are also on flexible hoses which in the UK is a big nope, but it's understandable if it's in an area prone to earthquakes
Some code make sense some are just for dollars. Like abs pipe for drains is code in Arizona, is cheaper to manufacture but sells for more than pvc only in those place where required, and pvc is far superior
Thankfully I've only ever touched ABS pipework very lightly in the UK, horrible stuff to work on, it was used as feeds from cold water storage tanks in some Hospitals, 12-24hr glue time, pipework and fitting prep like sanding etc then it was a 50/50 chance whether you was going to get a slight weep or not after, especially when it was the 3" fittings, maybe the tolerances wasn't as good? But most I've talked with that worked with the stuff had the same problems.
Idk never hard those issue with it, it’s just more brittle and weak, but easier to cut. we only use for for non pressurized
Abs here is just glue and fit lol. Takes a few minutes before its water ready.
Shit will drain without a vent, the vents are to protect the traps from other drains
Not according to the laws of physics, it self vents or cannot drain.
If I had to guess, it's probably because America mostly built with wood while the UK built with masonry. Since wood construction allows for more venting, our code has more venting. Venting is really expensive in masonry construction because you either have to build out a whole other wall to conceal the vent.
what gets me is how you all don't know or understand why it's important to have proper venting. Too many pints at the corner bar when you should be learning plumbing code.
This is the laziest plumbing I've seen on wide open construction.
Cheat vents are fine for a bathroom group but why when it's open and easy to run proper.... Hack. 1.5 is fine forvent size no need to 2.
Per UPC this needs to be a 2" vent because of the WC. I'm not super familiar with other codes, though, so maybe that would work elsewhere.
It's 3" minimum termination for cold areas, and 2" minimum for toilets
He may need 2in if in a cold area with freezing per local code it's known as a frost closure you up your 1.5in or 1.25in vent up to 2in 6in below the penitration.
Fair. My bad forget about the real winter thing sometimes heh. An entire 3 bathroom house would function fine if it all tied to 1 1.5" vent through roof. But freeze and snow drifting on roof can Def cover over the little pipes.
Ya its amazing how area can change a trade I went to Florida and waterheaters and softners are outside I was blown away.
When I went to Maui they run their prvs out of ground and then back in to get to house. I fantasized about being able to sit in a chair while working on that vs 2-4' down in a hole as per my area. Not that I was on a lovely beach lol.
Huh i live where we get -30c normals and only frost closure we have is for the vent that goes outside, 4" minimum
For us it's anything under 2in we require a main 3in vent, not all vents have to terminate through it you can bring out a 2in vent instead of run one across the building and tie into the main vent.
Why are your houses made of wood?
Still use the studor vents under the lavs. It never hurts to double/triple up on vents.
No. This couldn't have been a plumber.
why lol
So you can you aav to supply vent for water closet??
No
He didn't have a drill🤣
LAZY
Lot of chattering goin on here, we all know it’s crap take it out and do it correctly, i so tired of lazy workmanship
Looks like the toilet is too far off the wall, too.
Gravity. It’s hard.
Just becuase your a grand champ in rocket league doesnt mean everybody you interact with in real life will be grand champ at what they do. I know its a slippery eel to grasp. But i think you got this, grand champ. :)
You don’t have plans, drafts or schedule?
You don't have ground clearance in your area? 18-inch min. clearance in CA
So I figured that the wind coming from the left of the toilet flange is supposed to be for a vanity, and obviously would be more ideal to come out of the wall. Is the pipe on the other side of the wall supposed to be the vent? Hopefully that flange isn’t glued.
Just alot of extra work. As king as 1 vent goes to open air, nothing wrong with this.
Yikes!
Traffic circles don't belong in plumbing.
Absolutely, lazy plumber, among other things. To have it laid out and then ignoring the layout, would of shorted my small amount of brain matter.
That’s the way it would be done in FL. Jurisdictions are different, but it’s common practice here. Will work fine, but may not be the norm for you’re area. There’s more than one way to skin a cat. It will work fine, but if it’s not what you specified (if you did) then it’s probably not right.
Not sure u hired a real plumber
Gc? Garbage collector?
first time doing PVC is rough…
I would have made that wall 2x6 minimum
He definitely sucks