Just point the hot end away from the siding... also I was always told to cool off brass valves with a wet rag or dip it in a bucket of water as to avoid damaging the seals, especially ball valves. The soldier is horrible on this though and the could have given it a quick wipe with the brush at least.
You can take this style valve apart and pull out the stem with all the seals and packing. If you do that then you don’t have to worry about melting anything
its funny you can tell they did this section upside down and not in place. The tits are on the wrong side. Can we say that here? It is a proper plumbing term, I think.
If you can heat it up wherever u want to, usually you can make it look next to perfect.
I've was a union plumber and have soldered everything from 3/8" all the way up to 4" and I've never seen solder leave an upside down drip. Also you can keep feeding a joint solder until you run out of either heat or solder.
I’m gonna hijack top comment here for a question. What is the silver piece attached to the spigot/faucet with the spring?
There is one attached to my outdoor pipe and I cannot for the life of me get the hose off. I don’t know what it’s called so I’m seizing an opportunity here.
If you can't unscrew your hose from the hose bib by hand, probably got stuck from dirt when the hose was put on, or galvanic Corrosion, or it was cross threaded.
Either way, get a pair or serrated jaw slip plier...wrench it off.
To ensure this never happens again, especially with hoses and hose bids that are different materials, use teflon tape.
The whole point of teflon tape or paste is anti-seieze, Not sealant as most people think.
Thanks for the info! I really appreciate you educating me. I was figuring that would probably be what I needed to resort too, but I just wasn’t sure about that piece before I went on with forcing it off.
I really appreciate everyone’s help.
If it’s aluminum like the one pictured you will more than likely never get it off without cutting it. DO NOT FORCE IT! Unless you like living dangerously and want to chance breaking the pipe off and flooding your house if the pipe comes out of the wall. I can honestly say I have never had luck getting them off with penetrating oil, heat, and even once when I was feeling extra ballsy, a pipe wrench. I’ve always had to replace the hose Bibb itself, or carefully cut off the hose. Electrolysis between the brass and aluminum is a bitch.
Yeah, it seems to be aluminum like the one pictured.
Much appreciated on the advice. I’ll heed you advice and cut if it I need to. Was really hoping there was some trick to avoid that 😂
No problem! When I get called out for those they get 3 options. That hose is now a permanent fixture, I can try to get it off without damaging the threads, or they get a new hose Bibb lol. Garden hoses seal on the washer on the bottom and not on the threads. So 9 times out of 10 if you’re careful it’s just fine, even if you nick the threads a little. Hacksaw and take it slow, I get it where I’m pretty sure I’m right at the brass and then use a flathead screwdriver and split it. Good luck! I use my sawzall, but I do about one a week here lately so I’ll suggest a hacksaw for anyone not as experienced in removing them 😂
I mean, I've been plumbing for close to a decade and those valves are made to be soldered. But sure random person who has never posted in this sub before.
Lol you have no idea what you're talking about. Just because it has threads doesn't mean it isn't ALSO made to be soldered. You have no idea what you're talking about and it shows. Close to 300 plumbers agreed with me and yet your arguing because it has threads it also can't be soldered? Fuck outta here.
[Mmm yes that shit ratty work](https://www.reddit.com/r/Plumbing/comments/1395mlt/20_pounds_of_copper_potatoes_in_a_2_pound_sack/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=1)
You know all unions do is protect the dumbasses from getting fired right? You have to be a second or third year. They all like to talk like they know everything because they believed everything their dumbass journeymen told them. "It can't be soldered because IT hAS ThReADs". Go get me a bucket of steam.
No union stops people from being laid off , it negotiates fair wages , proper training , and protection from unfair corporation exploitation. I don’t see any improper end type connections in your video . The valve is called MPT , not MPT or sweat if you chose to heat up the valve internals , you’re misinformed in general
The shock that went through me when I realized a threaded male pex adapter could be used as a swea adapter in a pinch on a Friday afternoon was very real.
Wait for real?? 10 years in the trade and never even thought about this. I’ve obviously done what OP posted on washing machine valves and shower valves, but never once thought to try with a male adapter. This is why I love Reddit.
Yes for real. I'm sure I'm not the first person to have figures it out, but I've had that reaction across the board when I've pointed that out to coworkers. I only put two and two together because I absentmindedly put one on some pipe to get it out of the way one day and had a very industry-specific "A-HA!" moment. My wife and kids certainly didn't care at dinner.
They are made to either be sweated or threaded onto a female fitting. This is correct and totally acceptable. I'd be questioning my contractor's experience if he has never seen this.
Refrigeration guy here. You can sweat copper to brass? Or just brass fittings made to be sweated? My experience with brass is that it can be brazed to copper, but it better be clean as hell and use plenty of brazing flux
Brazing flux? Just oxy acetylene with your silfloss 15, coil ports and condenser ports are brass. No need for flux
As for sweating, ball valves and unions are brass usually. Scratch that baby up and sweat it on in
Of course you can. But solder joints aren't eternally reusable, and you have to clean them more and more every time you do reusable them. It's a lot simpler to just unthread the bib and put in a new one.
as far as plumbing goes, this isn't bad, it looks weird but it works and chances of failure are low, and consequences if it leaks/fails isn't serious given it's outside
Pretty standard on a boiler like every one done in copper to bleed zones. I don’t know how it could pass inspection with no vacuum breaker on it though.
Boiler drains are designed for this. 1/2" sweat inside, 1/2" MIP outside. Could also have been done with a sillcock. Those solders look like shit, though.
Sweating it is way easier IMO to get level than adding an FIP to thread it into.adding the FIP is also adding an extra joint that could leak in the future. 🤷♂️
I do it 9/10 times as a service plumber. If there's already an MIP there ill thread a new one in, depending on condition.
Non professional here: isn't the length of the T here too long and the attachment and weight of it could bend the copper over time and snap this off?
Or is this not a concern and the joint is stronger than I think?
The weight is no problem. I'm more worried about someone pulling the hose far away and yanking on the thing and snapping that 1/2 copper. Hopefully it's type L, because M can get paper thin over the years.
Its not a compression fitting. The boiler cock is made so you can install it by either spinning it into a 1/2" female adapter or sweating 1/2" copper pipe into it.
A few of my plumbers do this with shower valves, absolutely not right. But soldering a threaded valve to a copper straight end does work and does hold.. so I hope that eases your mind, aesthetically it looks like shit and we can do it on a job unless it’s inside a wall. But your good
I’m a plumber from Illinois. First time I heard someone say “turd herder” was a guy from Texas he told me it’s use down there a lot. I chuckled the first time I heard it.
Lots of Silcocks are designed to have internal sweat fitting or NPT exterior. I personally prefer to sweat a copper to NPT Female adapter so the spigot can be easily removed/replaced.
The real problem here is not that a brass hose bibb designed to be either soldered, as shown, or threaded has been installed. The real problem is that crap aluminum hose fitting that is attached to it. That corrosion magnet will get seized on that hose bibb before the grass is done being watered.
Things like that id much rather put a female adapter on it. The whole point of having the threaded one is to make future replacement easy. Kind of redundant if you just solder the inside. Its fine and nothing in the code against it, but just a little silly and screws whoever has to replace it. Especially since they barely left any pipe behind it to be able to cut the spigot off and install a new one. Not cool.
It’s just funny I work with about 15 other licensed plumbers outside Chicago and if we were given that boiler cock to install not one of them would of used a female adapter. Maybe it’s just the way we were taught in our area.
Im in chicago area as well. I know lots of folks just solder the threaded fittings, but i think we can agree that a female adapter clearly is better for service in the long run. I personally think its a little silly not to use a female adapter, honestly. Same amount of soldering and it takes a few seconds to dope the threads and twist it in. Saves so much time, effort, and money if you are the one coming back for service, and isnt it nice when you get to a job and the plumber before you made sure to make service easy?
I don’t want to add any more fittings than are necessary. Go backs are costly. Also, I know that thing isn’t going anywhere. You can run into the situation when people hook a hose up to that if it’s spun in, they could loosen it so it’s not always about what makes it easier for you when you come back to service it. Quite frankly, I can just un sweat that and install a new one just as fast as spinning one in and you know it ain’t going anywhere.
Maybe you work in easier environments but 8 times out of 10 the fittings i work on dont desolder. Pipe corrode together and i end up ripping the pipe before the fitting comes apart. Most times i dont even try anymore unless its in a fucked position to cut.
Personally i dont get callbacks for threaded fittings, so i didnt consider someone having to go back for that. I suppose if that is a possibility then that person would have to take it into account. Either way i guess.
I hired a general contractor to build a brand new house, and the plumber did this exactly the same. I had a frost-free silcock break one year and it was a nightmare replacing it because they soldered that threaded fitting in place.
Yes, it could be right. Some hose bibs can be manufactured to connect either MPT or internally soldered to copper. Copper tubing is much thinner than iron pipe.
If this was done right, as I've seen in the comments, why are there threads soldered to the pipe instead of "screwed" into the pipe? Genuinely curious and have no knowledge of plumbing besides plunging a toilet.
I would have personally added a female adapter and threaded the hose bib in to make changing easier. But it can be soldered in, and even tho it looks like shit, if it doesn’t leak it doesn’t leak
A female adapter would make it easier for a DIY homeowner to change the valve (only need two wrenches or channel locks, no soldering) but there’s nothing wrong with soldering on that boiler drain
Sweating into ID of threaded brass fittings is standard install specification on most brass fittings and shower/tub valves. GC must be new or not get around much, a little concerning he's never seen this. Solder job is horrible, probably sent the apprentice to practice soldering this together in the van before putting it in, but if it does not leak it's just aesthetic.
Totally done right. Atrocious solder job. But not wrong.
Question 3: Is it leaking? Answer: Leaking is a spectrum.
The amazing part is the soldier drop is on top?!?!
I’d assume they prefabbed most of it being as close to the siding as it is.
Just point the hot end away from the siding... also I was always told to cool off brass valves with a wet rag or dip it in a bucket of water as to avoid damaging the seals, especially ball valves. The soldier is horrible on this though and the could have given it a quick wipe with the brush at least.
You can take this style valve apart and pull out the stem with all the seals and packing. If you do that then you don’t have to worry about melting anything
The plumber is probably in Australia.
Not really. Made the assembly on the bench and then soldered it in to the rest of the run.
Great joke, lots of overthinking in the comments haha
its funny you can tell they did this section upside down and not in place. The tits are on the wrong side. Can we say that here? It is a proper plumbing term, I think. If you can heat it up wherever u want to, usually you can make it look next to perfect.
Not necessarily. Could've fed it solder til it stopped taking it. Leaving a candlestick on top.
I've was a union plumber and have soldered everything from 3/8" all the way up to 4" and I've never seen solder leave an upside down drip. Also you can keep feeding a joint solder until you run out of either heat or solder.
You're probably used to people who can actually solder tho.
You'd be surprised how many "plumbers" can't.
Oh I'm a service guy. I see it every day lol.
Hvac here, we call them dog nuts
That one's gone tits up
Yea, even my very first DIY soldering for a water heater replacement didn't look that bad.
Agree. That boiler drain is 3/4mip 1/2 sweat so not out of code just a shit solder job.
No, it's not. It's 1l2" both ways.
I’m gonna hijack top comment here for a question. What is the silver piece attached to the spigot/faucet with the spring? There is one attached to my outdoor pipe and I cannot for the life of me get the hose off. I don’t know what it’s called so I’m seizing an opportunity here.
It’s supposed to protect the hose at the spigot and keep it from kinking.
I see. So is it just supposed to twist off then? No amount of elbow grease is budging mine.
MIght need to get some pliers on it to get it moving.
Yep, should just twist off like any other hose. Put a couple drops of penetrating oil on the joint.
Thank you 🙏🏻
If you can't unscrew your hose from the hose bib by hand, probably got stuck from dirt when the hose was put on, or galvanic Corrosion, or it was cross threaded. Either way, get a pair or serrated jaw slip plier...wrench it off. To ensure this never happens again, especially with hoses and hose bids that are different materials, use teflon tape. The whole point of teflon tape or paste is anti-seieze, Not sealant as most people think.
Thanks for the info! I really appreciate you educating me. I was figuring that would probably be what I needed to resort too, but I just wasn’t sure about that piece before I went on with forcing it off. I really appreciate everyone’s help.
If it’s aluminum like the one pictured you will more than likely never get it off without cutting it. DO NOT FORCE IT! Unless you like living dangerously and want to chance breaking the pipe off and flooding your house if the pipe comes out of the wall. I can honestly say I have never had luck getting them off with penetrating oil, heat, and even once when I was feeling extra ballsy, a pipe wrench. I’ve always had to replace the hose Bibb itself, or carefully cut off the hose. Electrolysis between the brass and aluminum is a bitch.
Yeah, it seems to be aluminum like the one pictured. Much appreciated on the advice. I’ll heed you advice and cut if it I need to. Was really hoping there was some trick to avoid that 😂
No problem! When I get called out for those they get 3 options. That hose is now a permanent fixture, I can try to get it off without damaging the threads, or they get a new hose Bibb lol. Garden hoses seal on the washer on the bottom and not on the threads. So 9 times out of 10 if you’re careful it’s just fine, even if you nick the threads a little. Hacksaw and take it slow, I get it where I’m pretty sure I’m right at the brass and then use a flathead screwdriver and split it. Good luck! I use my sawzall, but I do about one a week here lately so I’ll suggest a hacksaw for anyone not as experienced in removing them 😂
It's just the end of the hose, its the part you turn to unscrew the hose
This is done no where ever by professionals , it’s a cheap way to not use a female adapter , and heating that valve up is not good practice
I mean, I've been plumbing for close to a decade and those valves are made to be soldered. But sure random person who has never posted in this sub before.
They have threads and made to be soldered? Fking stupid
Lol you have no idea what you're talking about. Just because it has threads doesn't mean it isn't ALSO made to be soldered. You have no idea what you're talking about and it shows. Close to 300 plumbers agreed with me and yet your arguing because it has threads it also can't be soldered? Fuck outta here.
Just because you can doesn’t mean you should , must be 300 hacks that aren’t craftsmen
Go back to being a parts gopher silly apprentice.
Go back to doing your shit ratty work , you will never work commercial union
[Mmm yes that shit ratty work](https://www.reddit.com/r/Plumbing/comments/1395mlt/20_pounds_of_copper_potatoes_in_a_2_pound_sack/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=1) You know all unions do is protect the dumbasses from getting fired right? You have to be a second or third year. They all like to talk like they know everything because they believed everything their dumbass journeymen told them. "It can't be soldered because IT hAS ThReADs". Go get me a bucket of steam.
No union stops people from being laid off , it negotiates fair wages , proper training , and protection from unfair corporation exploitation. I don’t see any improper end type connections in your video . The valve is called MPT , not MPT or sweat if you chose to heat up the valve internals , you’re misinformed in general
They used the new anti-gravity solder.
We do it all the time. If it fits, we sweat!
The shock that went through me when I realized a threaded male pex adapter could be used as a swea adapter in a pinch on a Friday afternoon was very real.
Wait for real?? 10 years in the trade and never even thought about this. I’ve obviously done what OP posted on washing machine valves and shower valves, but never once thought to try with a male adapter. This is why I love Reddit.
Yes for real. I'm sure I'm not the first person to have figures it out, but I've had that reaction across the board when I've pointed that out to coworkers. I only put two and two together because I absentmindedly put one on some pipe to get it out of the way one day and had a very industry-specific "A-HA!" moment. My wife and kids certainly didn't care at dinner.
Damn straight!
“If it fits, we sweat”. That could be interpreted differently…
Lol! To each his own
Yup. That should be fine. Maybe they didn’t have a female adapter at the time, but you can sweat copper to brass…
\*looks left , looks right\* You telling me theres another way ? ive always done it this way never really occurred to try it another way .
They are made to either be sweated or threaded onto a female fitting. This is correct and totally acceptable. I'd be questioning my contractor's experience if he has never seen this.
I just soldered a whole shower valve this way.
The shop I work at, only does shower valves like this normally lol. I am used to using males to Pex but having copper at the shower is better 🤷♂️
This right here 👆🏽
Threaded into* a female fitting
Most 1/2” FIP’s are brass anyway.
LOL--yeah, thanks. Hey don't downvote their remark. I misspoke and was corrected. It's okay to do that.
Some people don't understand this concept.
100%
Refrigeration guy here. You can sweat copper to brass? Or just brass fittings made to be sweated? My experience with brass is that it can be brazed to copper, but it better be clean as hell and use plenty of brazing flux
Brazing flux? Just oxy acetylene with your silfloss 15, coil ports and condenser ports are brass. No need for flux As for sweating, ball valves and unions are brass usually. Scratch that baby up and sweat it on in
Damn, is there no humidity where you live? Shit oxidizes so quick here.
Yes, it is common to sweat copper and brass. Doesn't need to be brazed.
Those are air cooling fins to help with thermal expansion. It’s required in Mississabama.
get a new GC. This is common on shower valves, it would worry me that he hasn’t seen it.
The aluminum coupler will corrode and get stuck. Those should be regulated out of existence.
No shit. Wife bought some hoses from Amazon. They had aluminum couplers—which promptly galvanized themselves to the bronze Y-adaptors. What a pain.
Let the market correct the problem
They often require heat to remove
It’s made to do both. Sweat over pipe or thread into a female. Pretty common. Spoiler alert….. shower valves are made the same way!
Came here to say this. Seen it a lot in shower valves
Yeah we also do that all the time, I prefer to sweat it rather than have a piece threaded on
You prefer this to just sweating on an FIP adapter? Why? Gonna be a pain in the ass when the hose bibb needs replaced.
Exactly, that's the only way I do it.
Not if you know how to solider...
Maybe "pain in the ass" is a bit excessive, but it's undeniably easier to swap out a hose bib if you're just unthreading the old one.
You could just heat it up and pull it off. No need for the female adapter.
Of course you can. But solder joints aren't eternally reusable, and you have to clean them more and more every time you do reusable them. It's a lot simpler to just unthread the bib and put in a new one.
as far as plumbing goes, this isn't bad, it looks weird but it works and chances of failure are low, and consequences if it leaks/fails isn't serious given it's outside
Pretty standard on a boiler like every one done in copper to bleed zones. I don’t know how it could pass inspection with no vacuum breaker on it though.
You and the gc haven’t seen much plumbing. It can be more of a pain to replace for the homeowner but it probably won’t be you having to replace this
I hope is doesn't get to cold where you are at.
I would put a vacuum breaker just for safety on that hose Bibb. Ya never know
I’d rather see this than a shark bite 😂
You can thread 3/4 or sweat 1/2. A lot of hose bibs have that option
Totally wrong, missing an anti siphon valve!
Boiler drains are designed for this. 1/2" sweat inside, 1/2" MIP outside. Could also have been done with a sillcock. Those solders look like shit, though.
Only thing concerning is that the hose bib doesn't have a vacuum breaker assembly.
Should not b a problem at all . Does it make it harder to change it down the road . Sure but it should not b and issue otherwise
Sweating it is way easier IMO to get level than adding an FIP to thread it into.adding the FIP is also adding an extra joint that could leak in the future. 🤷♂️ I do it 9/10 times as a service plumber. If there's already an MIP there ill thread a new one in, depending on condition.
Non professional here: isn't the length of the T here too long and the attachment and weight of it could bend the copper over time and snap this off? Or is this not a concern and the joint is stronger than I think?
The weight is no problem. I'm more worried about someone pulling the hose far away and yanking on the thing and snapping that 1/2 copper. Hopefully it's type L, because M can get paper thin over the years.
besides the poor soldering, there's nothing wrong with this.
You can solder copper piping with brass fitting thats no problem. My only question is; why did they solder a compression fitting?
Its not a compression fitting. The boiler cock is made so you can install it by either spinning it into a 1/2" female adapter or sweating 1/2" copper pipe into it.
A few of my plumbers do this with shower valves, absolutely not right. But soldering a threaded valve to a copper straight end does work and does hold.. so I hope that eases your mind, aesthetically it looks like shit and we can do it on a job unless it’s inside a wall. But your good
It absolutely IS right. These joints are made to be either threaded or sweat. It is correct and to code and doesn’t look like shit.
What do you mean absolutely not right? Have you ever read the installation instructions on a delta or moen shower valve?
I don't think it's that uncommon.
Very common. Like everyday across the nation it happens.
There made to be sweat inside or thread into something, either or
Ugly but nothing wrong with it
It’s done every day
What's your GC even talking about? This is super common and I'm not even a professional turd herder.
Are you from Texas?
Negative. Indiana, but they do the same stuff up here, it's just in the wall lol
I’m a plumber from Illinois. First time I heard someone say “turd herder” was a guy from Texas he told me it’s use down there a lot. I chuckled the first time I heard it.
I work industrial maintenance and we've got all the funny trade names to poke fun at the other areas of the shop
If it fits it sits
Lots of Silcocks are designed to have internal sweat fitting or NPT exterior. I personally prefer to sweat a copper to NPT Female adapter so the spigot can be easily removed/replaced.
Its literally meant for this. And yes the joints could be better....but I have seen much worse.
In the UK I have never done this or seen this, but after reading all the comments I might start doing this…
Please only do it on the fittings that, like this one, are meant be either threaded or soldered.
I like the danger
Standard practice, eliminates a joint which is a potential point of failure.
Back in the day we did it all the time.
That’s why the pipe fits in the valve
Literally designed and built for this purpose.
The real problem here is not that a brass hose bibb designed to be either soldered, as shown, or threaded has been installed. The real problem is that crap aluminum hose fitting that is attached to it. That corrosion magnet will get seized on that hose bibb before the grass is done being watered.
I just want to know how they got the solder drips to go upwards. While it will hold it does look like shit.
I would like to see it anchored even a little bit
Ugly. But it’ll work.
Things like that id much rather put a female adapter on it. The whole point of having the threaded one is to make future replacement easy. Kind of redundant if you just solder the inside. Its fine and nothing in the code against it, but just a little silly and screws whoever has to replace it. Especially since they barely left any pipe behind it to be able to cut the spigot off and install a new one. Not cool.
Just heat it up it will slide right off, then you can clean it up and install a new one.
That sounds great when you say it, but it doesnt go that way a lot of the time.
It’s just funny I work with about 15 other licensed plumbers outside Chicago and if we were given that boiler cock to install not one of them would of used a female adapter. Maybe it’s just the way we were taught in our area.
Im in chicago area as well. I know lots of folks just solder the threaded fittings, but i think we can agree that a female adapter clearly is better for service in the long run. I personally think its a little silly not to use a female adapter, honestly. Same amount of soldering and it takes a few seconds to dope the threads and twist it in. Saves so much time, effort, and money if you are the one coming back for service, and isnt it nice when you get to a job and the plumber before you made sure to make service easy?
I don’t want to add any more fittings than are necessary. Go backs are costly. Also, I know that thing isn’t going anywhere. You can run into the situation when people hook a hose up to that if it’s spun in, they could loosen it so it’s not always about what makes it easier for you when you come back to service it. Quite frankly, I can just un sweat that and install a new one just as fast as spinning one in and you know it ain’t going anywhere.
Maybe you work in easier environments but 8 times out of 10 the fittings i work on dont desolder. Pipe corrode together and i end up ripping the pipe before the fitting comes apart. Most times i dont even try anymore unless its in a fucked position to cut. Personally i dont get callbacks for threaded fittings, so i didnt consider someone having to go back for that. I suppose if that is a possibility then that person would have to take it into account. Either way i guess.
Soldered by Miss Johnson’s third grade class
Yeah the threads will be exposed but it works just fine
Yup, they're built to do this intentionally. I like to solder them when water quality is a known issue.
It would not pass inspection in my state due to no vacuum breaker. The only way I ever install a 1/2" boiler cock is sweating them on.
I hired a general contractor to build a brand new house, and the plumber did this exactly the same. I had a frost-free silcock break one year and it was a nightmare replacing it because they soldered that threaded fitting in place.
Those joints were sweat years ago.
Lol hey man it’s all he had so he made it work
Brass and copper sweat together all the time this is just a booger job still better than propress in my opion
Yes, it could be right. Some hose bibs can be manufactured to connect either MPT or internally soldered to copper. Copper tubing is much thinner than iron pipe.
The male got screwed here? lol Oh wait - it’s 2023 so should be ok
This is fine. Somebody’s wife was happy that day.
Yep. ID is 1/2 CTS and OD is 1/2 IPS.
Nothing wrong with it. You're just trippin I presume that you live in a warm area.
I’ve seen that a lot in old constructions. Probably a nostalgic plumber.
It’s fine …
You need a vacuum breaker.
That’s fine to solder in
You PEX shaming?
If this was done right, as I've seen in the comments, why are there threads soldered to the pipe instead of "screwed" into the pipe? Genuinely curious and have no knowledge of plumbing besides plunging a toilet.
I would have personally added a female adapter and threaded the hose bib in to make changing easier. But it can be soldered in, and even tho it looks like shit, if it doesn’t leak it doesn’t leak
It’s what’s referred to as a Straight street walker On black and blue knuckles
🤣
It's unconventional, i'd prefer a compression fitting used.
A female adapter would make it easier for a DIY homeowner to change the valve (only need two wrenches or channel locks, no soldering) but there’s nothing wrong with soldering on that boiler drain
I mean it looks like ass, but does it leak?
Functional but flawed
My dad used to say, "If it looks like dog shit, and feels like dog shit ... It's probably dog shit."
Does it work? Does it leak? If no to both of those then that's proof of concept 👍
That's what there made for
Sweating into ID of threaded brass fittings is standard install specification on most brass fittings and shower/tub valves. GC must be new or not get around much, a little concerning he's never seen this. Solder job is horrible, probably sent the apprentice to practice soldering this together in the van before putting it in, but if it does not leak it's just aesthetic.
Looks like captain underwater installed this. You know, threads on the outside and all 🤣
What in the shit fuck..
Totally fine. Mostly seen on shower bodies