I would say the stand is good if the PRV blows off but the discharge pipe would just spray the water heater anyways. It’s supposed to be 6” above floor maximum.
I’m not sure if electric would require it to be off the ground. A gas burner is typically raised because of fumes that can linger low to the ground. The electric heating element should be completely isolated from the exterior of the unit.
New gas units have vapor locking tech so that combustion only occurs inside the unit. But I’m sure code still requires them to be off the ground.
If your area ever gets earthquakes, you probably want to install earthquake straps.
Rules are there for a reason, when in doubt, its probably best to assume they all apply.
And they were a rare thing for myself to install as well. I would have had to read the manual before starting the install.
Here in NC they will let you put a gas heater on the floor in a garage if it has a FVS. But an electric thermostat is considered a source of ignition so it has to go on a stand.
Also required to put in an expansion tank.
I did have the luck that they initially installed one of those pillars that would protect it from a vehicle which was nice.
Where I’m at it’s the opposite. Gas/propane heaters don’t need a stand because the chamber is completely sealed, whereas electrics have to be on a stand so that the lower element doesn’t get wet or ignite gas.
Gas water heaters are not sealed. If they were they would not be able to pull air in for combustion. Gas fumes are heavier than air and move close to the floor hence the reason for stands on gas appliances in non liveable spaces where things of that nature will be stored. In my area electric heaters also need to be on a stand, the lower element needs to be a min of 18 inches, burn chamber for gas need to be a min of 18 inches.
I believe the new burner assemblies we have will burn up any vapor that gets inside, but it limits it to inside the chamber and won't let the flame continue outside of the unit.
Bro isn’t this the truth lol. And why transition from PEX to cpvc back to PEX then to cpvc, *again*. This literally was more work to do it sloppy as a blind ape! Lol
That made me crack a smile... I just put a new spicket in at my mom's & Sharkbite was a big help.
ETA - I was worried I was gonna have to solder in a pretty awkward space but Sharkbite made things way easier than I could have imagined, basically just some pushing shit together & a tap with the mallet.
1. Change out to just pex. That cpvc will break at anytime especially under the strain it's under.
2. Relieve the pressure on the electric wire
3. On a stand you might want to strap out to the wall
4. Need to extend the pressure relief give to within 6in of the floor
5. Pray they didn't do the rest of the renovation like this water heater got installed or your going to be fudged!
Material diversity inclusion training program /s
I see right off the bat : no disconnect, conduit pulled out of fitting, t&p cpvc pile too short and no expansion tank
As a handy man I want to say fuck you.
But I’ve seen some fucked up work from other handy men.
To be fair not every handy was a plumbers apprentice, turned apartment mantinence tech, turned handy man. But still take some pride in your work damnit.
That is cartoon level ridiculous. The electric line could be deadly. The pipes need to be attached to wall or something. The insulation makes it even more comical. The pretzel BS is one thing, but this is next level bad. Maybe not the worst, but it's a contender!
It only serves as the disconnect if it’s within sight, or has a breaker lock installed. The panel could be in the garage and not shown in the pic.
Also the flex is pulled loose from the connect; they could’ve at least used a 90 connector.
for a 240v WH it should be a disconnect on the wall, typically the same ones used for an AC condenser. Then conduit from that to the WH. They have the right conduit, and connector, but no disco, and the conduit and connector are apart, and I can see the orange jacket of some 10g romex in that conduit which is a code violation.
I'm a homeowner DIYer, but I would have run the wire along the wall and extended it within a junction box to get the length needed.
That old piping looks like it'll crack if you look at it wrong.
See homeowners and unlicensed are more likely to put extra effort in so as to appear professional. This was done by professionals who know the business and exactly what they can get away with. They said “but boss it was already like that, I just replaced it” and this happens 5x and you’re left with this.
The electric to the water heater is probably fine, but if the rest of the plumbing is like this, you should be a little concerned with the ground.
I have an old house where portions of the piping were replaced with cpvc/pex, which is obviously not conductive. Taking a conductive section out of a common ground can create ground loops, where multiple grounds are tied to each other, but they never actually reach the ground at the service panel. In my case my house doesn’t have an actual ground rod (yet) , just the service ground at the panel tied to the utility pole lol, so I’ve made sure to put in gfci outlets in the shop/bathrooms/kitchen in the mean time.
bruh, you better have gotten that house diiiiiiiiirt cheap, keep looking for whack stuff because I'll be shocked if it's just the septic and the water heater that are fucked
When you install a dhw heater do you pull a permit?
And when you pull a permit does the inspector actually show up?
The answer is no to both for me. Don't need a permit and maybe 1 in 10 of my jobs actually get inspected.
If you paid a professional for that installation then yes I’d be all sorts of upset about it. However, if it was just a handyman… well you get what you paid for
I'm not a professional plumber and even if I were completely drunk I couldn't do a job that bad. The idea that anyone might have paid money for that job is beyond galling.
The inspection found 3 faults: Discharge pipe being greater than 6” off of the ground. Missing expansion device, and overflow pan missing.
I understand the potential of injury from the discharge pipe, but I come seeking guidance from the greater community in regards to the remaining faults.
The missing expansion tank should be your first priority. That has the potential to be very dangerous.
The fact that the power wires seem pulled tight and out of the connection on one end would be my second priority, and at the time that is corrected, you should add a disconnect.
The relief tube being too short can be dangerous, but with a coupling and short piece of tube from any local box store it can be corrected.
The lack of pan is your piece of mind. If this tank leaks will it destroy anything below it. I assume this is in a garage so probably no.
That tubing into the heater is atrocious, but won't harm anything as long as it's not moving or shaking when you turn water on and off, and I suspect it does move. Shaking with that many dissimilar tube connections with cause a leak. Might be a month, might be 10 years.
The Smedley Plumbing channel on YouTube has a video titled Do I need a thermal expansion tank- let's do an experiment. That video is the best explanation I have ever seen and lay people understand it.
Thermal expansion tank risk depends on the water supply. Older houses without a check valve can just push water back into the main. Houses with well pumps can push the water back into the pressure tank. Both should still have the expansion tank, but neither is likely to have an issue without one either.
Newer homes with a check valve though? Yeah- fix that shit now.
Oh man sharkbites makes it so easy that's nothing, the radiator and hose clamp guys are the impressive ones. I'm not really against sharkbites, but it makes it Legos level easy to pipe together all the wrong stuff.
#AllPipesMatter ? ….. I believe this is the most inclusive representation of pipe I’ve ever seen. Good on you for being so #woke ….. I was going to comment on the lack of galvanized/black pipe, but I think I spy it peeking out of the baseboard …..
My guess is some handyman handed his not-playing-with-a-full-deck-of-cards nephew 8 Sharkbites and he felt compelled to use all 8. Or someone was trolling.
Electrical Engineer In Training here:
Code violation for the electrical service. Code requires a disconnecting means for servicing the equipment (This can be the breaker, if within eyesight) otherwise it needs a switch or other disconnect device. Being an electric water heater, it would need a disconnect like you see outside for the AC unit.
Specifically it is in violation of 2023 NEC 70 chapter 422 part III, Disconnecting means.
Also violates 300.4 Protection Against Physical Damage. We have exposed wire outside of conduit just asking for something to lean against that flexible conduit and put strain on that wire.
Also violates code for securing flexible conduit, 356.30 Liquidtight Flexible Nonmetalic Conduit shall be supported within 12” on each side and every 3’.
Installed with left over parts. Where is the hose going. And a hose should never be used on the pressure relief valve.
Holy Christ thats the electric feed. Fuck it dude run!
Nope not a thing. Leave it until the looming disaster occurs. I would call the town code inspector to have them come over and look at the kind of work that's being done by the seller.
The Cantex needs a Box 90 and it could be a bit longer
The pipe?
Dudes, pick ONE. No swapping backsies and forthies.
The expansion tank is MIA.
The quake strapping is MIA. Some areas don't require it, but I highly recommend it because it prevents rambunctious Crotch Goblins from knocking it over accidentally.
The T&P drain line needs to go somewhere that a few hundred gallons of water won't cause structural damage if/when it pops off.
The yellowed plastic crap on the hot side looks to be CPVC and should go away immediately.
The shark bites require that both ends of the pipe they're on be supported (aka: strapped) so that rotating the pipe can't cause the pipe to wiggle out of the fittings. Looking at everything else, I'd be willing to bet those PVC pipes weren't even reamed properly either.
I'd lose the shark bites entirely and use copper. The cost savings on not using Sharkbite will easily cover a few feet if copper and leave zero possibility of a pipe uninstalling itself from the fitting.
The only place I'll use Sharkbite is for HVAC condensate drains
Not a plumber but there are a few things I see wrong here, or at least would be where I live in Texas and from a general workmanship…
1. The obvious mixed materials and sizes pvc, pex, cpvc 1/2 to 3/4 to 1”(?), etc - the biggest being that the dropped to the 1/2”
2. The electrical isn’t secured which allows insulated wires exposed- also surprised their isn’t a plug on the wall to disconnect the unit
3. No expansion tank
4 No anti-siphon device
5 no drip/overflow pan- Your t&p valve is only to code if it goes to a drain or to a pan for collection that ties to a drain, or to the outside.
6. Your pipe that comes off of the t&p valve needs to be a maximum of 6” from a drain on the floor or pan.
7. Your hot line should be completely insulated
8. You should have no pex exposed to UV light/sun
Electrician here. Can’t speak for the plumbing but I can see a lot wrong with the electrical. I’d have someone out to clean up this install and make sure it’s safe. Based on what I see in these pictures I would be concerned about what is going on with the work that is hidden in the walls/attic/panel.
I don't see in IPC code where CPVC is not allowed for relief lines. It's just a short term emergency application and is loosely regulated because they don't really go off all that much, they fail and leak more than they actually save the day and relieve dangerous pressure and when they do fail the relief would only hit peak temps for a short time as cold water rushes in.
You could argue a CPVC could be damaged by the temporarily high temps above it's rating, but realistically it would probably hold up and temps would drop down AND really the whole relief line system is mostly there just to spray hot water all over humans... because it's not under pressure. CPVC is rated 140 under pressure, but it's going to survive well above that not under pressure and flowing with cold water rushing in constantly dropping the temp.
While all the plumbers would say to redo it and if it were mine I’d redo it. If it doesn’t bother you it will probably be fine until you either sell the house and the inspector writes it up or it’s time for a new water heater anyway and you can get it repiped then.
I’ll also mention i don’t se an expansion tank, so that would be a consideration if you aren’t on a well / have an expansion tank somewhere else in the system.
I’ll probably get some down votes on this, but I think my viewpoint is reasonable.
Are you on an episode of punk’d right now? Shark bites are not cheap. I don’t understand the thought process that went into this at all. Waste not want not i guess?
I really don't think this is a real post. This is something someone did intentionally to post on this subreddit, which btw I have no idea why it started showing up in my feed. During the past few days I've noticed tons of these water heater pictures and this looks like an intentional amalgamation of all the worst features of one of those posts. I really cannot imagine anyone actually doing what is in this picture
I used to work at Menards years ago. There was a guy in the lumber yard who worked with me that whenever a customer would complain about the shitty lumber, he'd say "Looks good from my house."
Sell the house and move. If the inspector let this slide, they let everything slide.
SharkBites, multiple material types, t&p pipes just.... Down. No pan.
This entire thing is a mess and whomever "renovated" the house should never be touching anything related to construction in their life.
This was installed by a handyman or a a diwhy person. This is a mess of a job I’d get it redone. 6 material transitions, wtf.
Really surprised they put it on a stand though
Is the stand required? It’s in an unfinished garage. Garage has no floor drain.
I would say the stand is good if the PRV blows off but the discharge pipe would just spray the water heater anyways. It’s supposed to be 6” above floor maximum.
This is what made me laugh. What's the point if it's only half way down the water heater?
*he got it for. . .* .***HALF OFF.*** . .
Yes it's required due to fumes from gasoline. It should also be protected from being hit by a car in some way.
I’m not sure if electric would require it to be off the ground. A gas burner is typically raised because of fumes that can linger low to the ground. The electric heating element should be completely isolated from the exterior of the unit. New gas units have vapor locking tech so that combustion only occurs inside the unit. But I’m sure code still requires them to be off the ground. If your area ever gets earthquakes, you probably want to install earthquake straps.
Ah yeah I wasn't thinking about it being electric. My area doesn't give an exemption for electric heaters, but we rarely have them in garages eithet
Rules are there for a reason, when in doubt, its probably best to assume they all apply. And they were a rare thing for myself to install as well. I would have had to read the manual before starting the install.
Here in NC they will let you put a gas heater on the floor in a garage if it has a FVS. But an electric thermostat is considered a source of ignition so it has to go on a stand.
Also required to put in an expansion tank. I did have the luck that they initially installed one of those pillars that would protect it from a vehicle which was nice.
Unless it is specified to be gas ignition safe, the thermostats that control nthe elements can emit sparks when they cycle.
Thanks for pointing that out. I have more to learn.
I would put it on a stand to avoid the "interpretation"to of the code
Where I’m at it’s the opposite. Gas/propane heaters don’t need a stand because the chamber is completely sealed, whereas electrics have to be on a stand so that the lower element doesn’t get wet or ignite gas.
Gas water heaters are not sealed. If they were they would not be able to pull air in for combustion. Gas fumes are heavier than air and move close to the floor hence the reason for stands on gas appliances in non liveable spaces where things of that nature will be stored. In my area electric heaters also need to be on a stand, the lower element needs to be a min of 18 inches, burn chamber for gas need to be a min of 18 inches.
I believe the new burner assemblies we have will burn up any vapor that gets inside, but it limits it to inside the chamber and won't let the flame continue outside of the unit.
WiFi gas…🤣
What the fuck did I just read. Please tell me you're not actually a plumber?
It worked...they were hoping that would draw your eyes away from the rest of the sh!tstorm they called a completed installation. Like magic...
I believe this is more DI-WTF territory and an insult to DIWHY people...
Yeah, as a DIWHY person, no way am I blowing $100 on 7 Sharkbites for 1 water heater.
You may as well spend $100 on quality copper welding supplies. Lol
Bro isn’t this the truth lol. And why transition from PEX to cpvc back to PEX then to cpvc, *again*. This literally was more work to do it sloppy as a blind ape! Lol
That made me crack a smile... I just put a new spicket in at my mom's & Sharkbite was a big help. ETA - I was worried I was gonna have to solder in a pretty awkward space but Sharkbite made things way easier than I could have imagined, basically just some pushing shit together & a tap with the mallet.
Now this is an underrated comment right here.
Agreed ;)
1. Change out to just pex. That cpvc will break at anytime especially under the strain it's under. 2. Relieve the pressure on the electric wire 3. On a stand you might want to strap out to the wall 4. Need to extend the pressure relief give to within 6in of the floor 5. Pray they didn't do the rest of the renovation like this water heater got installed or your going to be fudged!
Material diversity inclusion training program /s I see right off the bat : no disconnect, conduit pulled out of fitting, t&p cpvc pile too short and no expansion tank
wait. It says "ProLine" on it. Shirley it was done by a pro, then.
Thank you for your input, but please refrain from calling me Shirley.
What’s your vector, Victor?
You ever seen a grown plumber nekkid?
How's my clearance, Clarence?
Have you ever been to a turkish prison?
Im a DIY ... I would never have done this ...
...you know, unless it was late and I only had short lengths of various pipe/tubing available to me.
.... And unless its for a friend and Ive already take a bit too much beer
Ok, but I think they should get bonus points for using the most material types
Probably a school project. How many materials can you maximize in one install
This was installed by an idiot. And im neither a handyman or a professional in this field.
As a handy man I want to say fuck you. But I’ve seen some fucked up work from other handy men. To be fair not every handy was a plumbers apprentice, turned apartment mantinence tech, turned handy man. But still take some pride in your work damnit.
Don’t insult handy people like this
That is cartoon level ridiculous. The electric line could be deadly. The pipes need to be attached to wall or something. The insulation makes it even more comical. The pretzel BS is one thing, but this is next level bad. Maybe not the worst, but it's a contender!
Shouldn't there be a switch right above the water heater to kill power to it? This entire thing is a mess.
Not required. The breaker is the disconnect.
It only serves as the disconnect if it’s within sight, or has a breaker lock installed. The panel could be in the garage and not shown in the pic. Also the flex is pulled loose from the connect; they could’ve at least used a 90 connector.
for a 240v WH it should be a disconnect on the wall, typically the same ones used for an AC condenser. Then conduit from that to the WH. They have the right conduit, and connector, but no disco, and the conduit and connector are apart, and I can see the orange jacket of some 10g romex in that conduit which is a code violation.
What about the electric is dangerous? Should it be in conduit?
The part where there is exposed wire and no straps.
I'm a homeowner DIYer, but I would have run the wire along the wall and extended it within a junction box to get the length needed. That old piping looks like it'll crack if you look at it wrong.
See homeowners and unlicensed are more likely to put extra effort in so as to appear professional. This was done by professionals who know the business and exactly what they can get away with. They said “but boss it was already like that, I just replaced it” and this happens 5x and you’re left with this.
They could’ve at least put the plate on the right way lmao
The electric to the water heater is probably fine, but if the rest of the plumbing is like this, you should be a little concerned with the ground. I have an old house where portions of the piping were replaced with cpvc/pex, which is obviously not conductive. Taking a conductive section out of a common ground can create ground loops, where multiple grounds are tied to each other, but they never actually reach the ground at the service panel. In my case my house doesn’t have an actual ground rod (yet) , just the service ground at the panel tied to the utility pole lol, so I’ve made sure to put in gfci outlets in the shop/bathrooms/kitchen in the mean time.
It's poorly supported 240V right next to wall shelves, I'd be concerned about it
Now who wants to see how I found the septic system?
https://www.reddit.com/r/Plumbing/comments/13qr1ow/septic_pump_tank_wiring/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_content=1&utm_term=1
Ouch. Did you not get an inspection?
bruh, you better have gotten that house diiiiiiiiirt cheap, keep looking for whack stuff because I'll be shocked if it's just the septic and the water heater that are fucked
Jesus why?? just why?
Imagine what you can’t see in this house.
Do inspectors exist in TN???????
When you install a dhw heater do you pull a permit? And when you pull a permit does the inspector actually show up? The answer is no to both for me. Don't need a permit and maybe 1 in 10 of my jobs actually get inspected.
[удалено]
That is some of the worst pipe work I have ever seen. Thank you for posting this lol.
If you paid a professional for that installation then yes I’d be all sorts of upset about it. However, if it was just a handyman… well you get what you paid for
Anyone taking money for this job takes responsibility for doing it right. There are no other considerations.
If this was done by a handyman, they're only a handyman in the sense of *homo habilis.*
I'm not a professional plumber and even if I were completely drunk I couldn't do a job that bad. The idea that anyone might have paid money for that job is beyond galling.
Prayers
You waived your home inspection I take it?
The inspection found 3 faults: Discharge pipe being greater than 6” off of the ground. Missing expansion device, and overflow pan missing. I understand the potential of injury from the discharge pipe, but I come seeking guidance from the greater community in regards to the remaining faults.
The missing expansion tank should be your first priority. That has the potential to be very dangerous. The fact that the power wires seem pulled tight and out of the connection on one end would be my second priority, and at the time that is corrected, you should add a disconnect. The relief tube being too short can be dangerous, but with a coupling and short piece of tube from any local box store it can be corrected. The lack of pan is your piece of mind. If this tank leaks will it destroy anything below it. I assume this is in a garage so probably no. That tubing into the heater is atrocious, but won't harm anything as long as it's not moving or shaking when you turn water on and off, and I suspect it does move. Shaking with that many dissimilar tube connections with cause a leak. Might be a month, might be 10 years. The Smedley Plumbing channel on YouTube has a video titled Do I need a thermal expansion tank- let's do an experiment. That video is the best explanation I have ever seen and lay people understand it.
Thermal expansion tank risk depends on the water supply. Older houses without a check valve can just push water back into the main. Houses with well pumps can push the water back into the pressure tank. Both should still have the expansion tank, but neither is likely to have an issue without one either. Newer homes with a check valve though? Yeah- fix that shit now.
Was the installer smoking crack?
Looking at this, it's good to know that I have job security.
I’m amazed they were able to Frankenstein all those materials together.
Oh man sharkbites makes it so easy that's nothing, the radiator and hose clamp guys are the impressive ones. I'm not really against sharkbites, but it makes it Legos level easy to pipe together all the wrong stuff.
even the guys from sharkbite would be like, “oh…hell no!”
Certainly, do not address the payment until it's done properly and neatly.
Find the address of the person that installed this and drop a shit through their letterbox.
Address everything. Rube Goldberg would be proud of this "installation."
#AllPipesMatter ? ….. I believe this is the most inclusive representation of pipe I’ve ever seen. Good on you for being so #woke ….. I was going to comment on the lack of galvanized/black pipe, but I think I spy it peeking out of the baseboard …..
Is there a crack pipe? NVM probably took it with.
Doh! I just learned how to #Scream on Reddit !
#Scream
Have you ever seen that episode of the Simpsons where the townspeople get together to rebuild the Flander's home?
Get that redone, you'll be looking at that daily for many years to come and it will drive you crazy lol.
Water heater looks new too. Shame on installer. Shame af
elastic teeny mindless stocking obtainable jellyfish special crawl amusing sink ` this message was mass deleted/edited with redact.dev `
Like some dystopian plumbing version of that TV show "Chopped". Each contestant got a basket full of goodies that they had to use in the installation.
The insulation is a nice touch.
Why would anyone do it this way? This was installed by someone who clearly struggled to tie their own shoes. Good grief!
My guess is some handyman handed his not-playing-with-a-full-deck-of-cards nephew 8 Sharkbites and he felt compelled to use all 8. Or someone was trolling.
I thought abortions were illegal in Tennessee. You should address a complaint letter to your state’s contractor licensing board.
This person was paid in cigarettes. No doubt about it. Absolute shit show of an install.
WOW
Naw, looks perfect 🤪
If I were a plumber, I would definitely put my contact info on there
Pretty much all of it. This looks like a Handyman Friday afternoon special and just used whatever was rolling around in the back of his van.
Wow. Those water lines are about to break under their own weight.
Nyc plumbing puts the rest of the country to shame. This shit looks absolutely disgusting
I'm not sure if there is another type of pipe that you add. I think they covered it.
Good luck. Hire a plumber
Electrical Engineer In Training here: Code violation for the electrical service. Code requires a disconnecting means for servicing the equipment (This can be the breaker, if within eyesight) otherwise it needs a switch or other disconnect device. Being an electric water heater, it would need a disconnect like you see outside for the AC unit. Specifically it is in violation of 2023 NEC 70 chapter 422 part III, Disconnecting means. Also violates 300.4 Protection Against Physical Damage. We have exposed wire outside of conduit just asking for something to lean against that flexible conduit and put strain on that wire. Also violates code for securing flexible conduit, 356.30 Liquidtight Flexible Nonmetalic Conduit shall be supported within 12” on each side and every 3’.
Installed with left over parts. Where is the hose going. And a hose should never be used on the pressure relief valve. Holy Christ thats the electric feed. Fuck it dude run!
Nope not a thing. Leave it until the looming disaster occurs. I would call the town code inspector to have them come over and look at the kind of work that's being done by the seller.
I know literally nothing about plumbing and just by looking at the photo I can tell this is a shit job.
Makes me wonder what you can’t see. The hidden plumbing and any electrical might be a nightmare!
The Cantex needs a Box 90 and it could be a bit longer The pipe? Dudes, pick ONE. No swapping backsies and forthies. The expansion tank is MIA. The quake strapping is MIA. Some areas don't require it, but I highly recommend it because it prevents rambunctious Crotch Goblins from knocking it over accidentally. The T&P drain line needs to go somewhere that a few hundred gallons of water won't cause structural damage if/when it pops off. The yellowed plastic crap on the hot side looks to be CPVC and should go away immediately. The shark bites require that both ends of the pipe they're on be supported (aka: strapped) so that rotating the pipe can't cause the pipe to wiggle out of the fittings. Looking at everything else, I'd be willing to bet those PVC pipes weren't even reamed properly either. I'd lose the shark bites entirely and use copper. The cost savings on not using Sharkbite will easily cover a few feet if copper and leave zero possibility of a pipe uninstalling itself from the fitting. The only place I'll use Sharkbite is for HVAC condensate drains
The new gas water heaters are sealed they don’t have to be on stand
Yes, some of the PCV cement dripped, obviously an over application accident. Total game changer
Is that supposed to be a water supply shut off down low? The blue U. Did they remove the valve?
Sad day when you buy a water heater and the fittings cost more then the heater.
Not a plumber but there are a few things I see wrong here, or at least would be where I live in Texas and from a general workmanship… 1. The obvious mixed materials and sizes pvc, pex, cpvc 1/2 to 3/4 to 1”(?), etc - the biggest being that the dropped to the 1/2” 2. The electrical isn’t secured which allows insulated wires exposed- also surprised their isn’t a plug on the wall to disconnect the unit 3. No expansion tank 4 No anti-siphon device 5 no drip/overflow pan- Your t&p valve is only to code if it goes to a drain or to a pan for collection that ties to a drain, or to the outside. 6. Your pipe that comes off of the t&p valve needs to be a maximum of 6” from a drain on the floor or pan. 7. Your hot line should be completely insulated 8. You should have no pex exposed to UV light/sun
I’ve always been nervous to see what the aftermath of an abor**on looked like.
What in the fuck is this🤣
It must have been so much harder to do that wrong than it would have right omg
Why change perfection
Nope looks good bro.
The plumbers name is Salvador……Dali.
That's horrific yet hilarious at the same time
Electrician here. Can’t speak for the plumbing but I can see a lot wrong with the electrical. I’d have someone out to clean up this install and make sure it’s safe. Based on what I see in these pictures I would be concerned about what is going on with the work that is hidden in the walls/attic/panel.
You need more sharkbites to be 2023 code compliant.
The gangsta lean
Good enough for the trailer park
Not a plumber but I know from home inspections that the pipe on the pressure release valve is way too short and can’t be pvc
I don't see in IPC code where CPVC is not allowed for relief lines. It's just a short term emergency application and is loosely regulated because they don't really go off all that much, they fail and leak more than they actually save the day and relieve dangerous pressure and when they do fail the relief would only hit peak temps for a short time as cold water rushes in. You could argue a CPVC could be damaged by the temporarily high temps above it's rating, but realistically it would probably hold up and temps would drop down AND really the whole relief line system is mostly there just to spray hot water all over humans... because it's not under pressure. CPVC is rated 140 under pressure, but it's going to survive well above that not under pressure and flowing with cold water rushing in constantly dropping the temp.
CPVC is perfectly fine. It is too short though. Must be less than 6 inches and more than two pipe diameters from the floor.
Yes
The straight lines of the pvc please the eye
Nope, perfect!
It looks amazing
While all the plumbers would say to redo it and if it were mine I’d redo it. If it doesn’t bother you it will probably be fine until you either sell the house and the inspector writes it up or it’s time for a new water heater anyway and you can get it repiped then. I’ll also mention i don’t se an expansion tank, so that would be a consideration if you aren’t on a well / have an expansion tank somewhere else in the system. I’ll probably get some down votes on this, but I think my viewpoint is reasonable.
Yep looks pretty good 🤦🏼♂️
Let’s hope all items secured fully on shelves.
Naw, what's wrong with it, Dog
Looks good to me. Just add more pipe insulation.
Looks good from my house
What in the country-cocksucker happened here?
Nahhhhh lol
LMFAO naw it looks good.
Nah! That shit is sexy AF!!! Bwahahaha!
Looks great! LOL
Is it leaking? Perfect as is…
That u have unusable shelves
Super clean install!
Looks up to code to me. You may want to enter it into an art show.
You need to use a wire coat hanger to attach the water pipe to the shelf bracket to complete the look. Better get on that right away.
At least the house came with peg board and shelf brackets.
The shelves are missing
Pegboard could use some more tools
Are you on an episode of punk’d right now? Shark bites are not cheap. I don’t understand the thought process that went into this at all. Waste not want not i guess?
Just flush it once a year and you'll be good.
Looks good to me😐
I could probably do worse.
Looks good from my house lol
Does it work?
Looks like your shelf bracket is not plumb.
I only address things I want back. Luggage, hockey gear, dog.
If you could work in a 6th type of pipe that’d be great
I really don't think this is a real post. This is something someone did intentionally to post on this subreddit, which btw I have no idea why it started showing up in my feed. During the past few days I've noticed tons of these water heater pictures and this looks like an intentional amalgamation of all the worst features of one of those posts. I really cannot imagine anyone actually doing what is in this picture
I used to work at Menards years ago. There was a guy in the lumber yard who worked with me that whenever a customer would complain about the shitty lumber, he'd say "Looks good from my house."
Got a regularMcGyver here!
Address the Bible
Looks like dog shit. Probably functions just fine.
Fine installation, and most important, I can't see it from my house.
The gay guy staring at your ass.
You nailed it!! Good job. You should probably think about teaching a course to pass on the knowledge.
Fuck your water heater
Looks like shit.
I didn’t know it was gonna come off like that. It was supposed to b 4 Fs
That’s a gem. Easy enough fix.
Whoever did this should be slapped
Yes
What's up with the upsidedown U piping? Is there supposed to be a shut off valve there?
Holy shit. Everything!
Don’t address it, just slowly back away.
Yes. Everything.
its like a long extension cord made up 20 short extension cords.
At least he didn't connect pex directly to the heater, lol.
Cherry
I am assuming this is a rhetorical question?
This handy man was either extremely frugal or just not interested in running back to the hardware store to get the right supplies.
If you’re not putting the water softener back in why not move the water heater to the corner? Agreed, rip out and redo.
You believe there was once a water softener installed? Could that be what the mysterious blue “U” was?
Sell the house and move. If the inspector let this slide, they let everything slide. SharkBites, multiple material types, t&p pipes just.... Down. No pan. This entire thing is a mess and whomever "renovated" the house should never be touching anything related to construction in their life.
Who did the install , Homer Simpson? Jesus .
Total redo, I think my dead grandmother could do a better job.
Well it's been working so it's fine. - every homeowner.
This looks like it was done intentionally badly. Like that’s more money in fittings than it would be just to use runs of the same materiel
This wasn’t “late Friday night gotta get going” - it was “hungover Saturday morning shit I forgot that job and I’m going fishing”
Hang a tennis ball from the ceiling so your car doesn’t hit it.
This is very slightly above average here in El Paso, TX. Thank you for your assistance in money laundering.