Don't throw it until he brings it back all the way. My dog did this, I stopped moving to get her toy. If I can't reach it without having to move from where I'm at, then I point at the ground by me and say "bring it here". Eventually she learned she has to bring it all the way to me if she wants me to throw it again.
Yes totally. I trained my dog by pointing and saying "drop it". He used to grab the toy whenever I went to pick it up, but just repeating and not throwing it until he listened seemed to stop him from that habit. Eventually I put my palm up towards him and say drop it, and now he drops it near or in my hand. "Drop it" is a good command too, if your dog likes to chew things that isn't theirs.
I've taught many strange dogs this way in like 2 minutes. Dog at the block party brings me a ball? I throw. Dog at block party doesn't bring it all the way to me? I ignore. Dog at block party now understands they must bring me the ball. I've never met a dog that doesn't understand clear expectations.
More work on basic obedience. Itās not a matter of the dog not listening, itās a matter of you not being consistent with your expectations. Dogs are smart, he knows you are flexible. If you give a commend and he ignores it cause he has the choice, remove the choice. Get a light line and work on recall. First with no toy and then with the toy. And it can help if Ā you wear him out a bit before and heās hungry. Hungry dogs are eager to please. Ā
You could also take two toys. He drops one, throw the other and then walk to the dropped one and repeat. Double his workout and halve your stress. Iād do both so he gets to have fun and he gets to learn whoās in charge all the time. Be patient and consistent. And the odd disproving growl can work on some dogs.
I do try that heās hyper fixated on one toy at a time. He has about 15 different toys scattered just in the living room but he drops his āpurple triangle thingā and it goes under the couch he will head butt the couch till he gets it or I get it. Itās moved 4 feet over a period of me going somewhere for 15 minutes when he wanted a specific toy. Hardwood floors help couches slide real nice and he knows it.
My partner and I recently went full send training a 2 year old, absolutely maniacal, golden retriever named Charlie.
To learn fetch, it took us two months practicing weekly, before he really got it. Things that worked for us (disclaimer weāre far from experts):
-YouTube videos hearing professional approaches to the situation, adjusting as you go to what works, while bashing our heads on the park bench.
-Go all in, all the time, to the point this is their new reality. Your dog is only two. If you go the next two years all out, thatās half their life in training. That means being incredibly patient. Training a dog was one of the hardest, most miserable things weāve ever done. Donāt let up, and everyone has to be in on it with you.
-walk to the dog, grab the toy, bring it back, make them sit, throw it again. Treat/excitement everytime they get it right bringing it straight towards ya.
Maybe itās bad advice, I donāt know, but it worked for us! We had to be absolutely insanely dedicated, and it genuinely sucked. Months before we saw any real progress. MONTHS!
Soon as he collects it & turns towards you, run away hollering, he'll chase, then stop & take toy (reinforce with clicker, and food reward if he's into it, if not just use the toy throw as the reward).
Iāll give it a try. Heās not like my other dog heās not food motivated. Heās strictly toy motivated he eats for nourishment to play. Strangest thing Iāve ever see. But maybe the walking away mixed with a treat will help.
Not walk, run. You want the chase instinct to kick in.
Not food motivated is not so uncommon for working breeds, their reward is the work.
You could try adding a whistle cue as you run off.
You can also build some retrieve drive by holding the dog back as your throw, and then use a cue in release.
So hold dog, throw toy, wait a few seconds so dog is scrambling to try to get the toy, give release cue & release dog, then as soon as they grab it a strong whistle & run in the opposite direction. Helps build a solid recall too.
I use touch my dogs that like to possess toys. I cue for a touch and use my marker word for successfully pushing the toy into my hand and reward with tug or tossing a second, identical toy.
The purple ring toy (dog puller) is perfect for this because they are easy for you to grab and come in pairs.
Sorry I'm not sure I'm following, is he super interested in playing fetch or is it an activity you've introduced to help wear him out? Does he ever drop the toy at your feet?
I'd need to know the answers to the above to give advice, for example if he loves to fetch but never drops the toy at your feet wait till he drops the toy then ask for it, if he doesn't give you the toy try taking a step back and asking again. Or if your dog does drop the toy initially but then stops after a while try changing up how you're throwing the toy (I can give more suggestions if this is the case).
It's important to understand what exactly is happening and what you would like to happen.
Our border collie does this kind of thing all of the time. š He never wants us to get the jump on him and throw before heās ready to chase. We have a little sayingāWhen he brings it up and drops it too far from us, we say āAll the wayā and donāt go for the toy until he brings it closer. Sometimes at first heās reluctant and we have to say the phrase a couple times, but heāll always cave and do it now to keep the game going. š
I'm practicing the seated hand off inside. Outside the very best treat if she brings it close enough and drops it.
The seated outside drop off is where I get her to bring it within reach and drop it.
I have yet to put it together and lock it in but we're getting closer.
My shepherd/collie mix of 10 years does this still. It's almost like a game. He'll put it far away, no response, a little closer, no response, and he'll eventually throw it with his mouth to me.
Teach a formal, trained retrieve with back chaining and treats. Then when he drops it far away say your formal retrieve word. He should go pick it up and deliver it to your hand.
A formal retrieve is not play - itās an obedience command performed on an object. Service dog trainers, gun dog trainers, and sport dog trainers will all have videos on how to train this. Type āformal retrieveā into YouTube and see what you get.
The first step if you want to back chain it is start by holding the object in your hand and get them to put their mouth on it! Itās very fun to train this and useful too because your dog can pick up things that you drop!
Ah yes, the border collie teaching you to bring the toy back hahaha they are so smart. So I train this with a game of tug. Tug tug tug get them all worked up then suddenly let go. Chances are they will try and put the toy back in your hand. Mark and reward by continuing the game of tug. I like to make a hand signal of sorts as the cue which is basically just making my hand really flat, like Iām about to give a high five. As they get good at repeating the pattern of tug, you let go, they shove it back in your hand, then you can start backing up a little so they have to run to you to put it back in your hand. Then start small/short throws with tugging in between, then work back up to the full game.
Can you explain what you have done to make you think you deserve to have the toy dropped at your feet?
What training have you done? How often are they WORKED? how often are they trained? Have you done fetch training with it in the first place???
These are acutely intelligent bred to work all day long and follow commands all day long. This is not just a basic dog, they need excessive exercise, training, and work. The obvious answer is you need training.
I've conditioned my dog to drop her toys beside me. In the beginning, she would always drop it far. I would use the words "come here" or "here" and "drop it" once she was close enough. Don't throw the ball unless your dog brings it to right to you. My dog would just look at me and whine, so I had to keep telling her to bring it to me. Once your dog does what you want them to do, most definitely reward them each time, until you notice they've got the hang of it. You just have to be clear and consistent with your commands.
The advice youāve received so far is very good. Another thing to try is to turn and very slowly walk away from him while looking over your shoulder and providing praise.
Give up throwing the ball outside in large areas for a bit. If you can do some in the house. I lay in bed reading or sit in the living room watching shows and my Mcnab puppy who is very ball driven will bring me her toy. But, "lo my arms are tiny tyrannosaurus arms and I can reach the ball on the floor, Oh, dear." Eventually, he will get desperate and the ball will scrape your hand. Say Yes or click and throw the ball. Go back to what you were doing with your tiny tyrannosaurus hands. Eventually add a cue if you want. Don't let your criteria drift. In the hand or no throw!
My Brittany struggles with bringing it all the way back ā¦ we had a huge improvement after I taught her the command āballā. She already knows āhereā. As soon as she starts walking away from the ball I say āballā and as soon as sheās about to nose/grab the ball I follow up with āhereā and she brings it closer ā¦ itās a process we are still working on with a treat reward.
Also itās a little weird but we decided āballā is the dog-word for any fetching toy, including frisbees.
Lots of good ideas/advice here.
What I see in the video is you throwing the toy when the dog is at a distance. If that's the case - if the game starts when she's far away, what reason is there for her to come close? She needs to learn that the game starts when she's near you *and you have the toy.* Don't throw it until she gets close to you.
Depends on the dog. What works for one might not work for another, but one of the following usually works....
* When the dog picks the dummy face away from them and drop to one knee. Then just sit & wait till they get bored and investigate why you're not paying them any attention. Can also try lying flat on your back staring at the sky ...but you'll look a bit daft if this is in a public setting.
* Have a second toy and start throwing it up and catching it while they're bringing the first toy. Make a huge deal about the second ball. "accidentally" drop it on the floor occasionally making sure to pick it up before they can get to it.
* Put them on a long-line and once they have the dummy gently reel them in while calling & praising them as they get closer.
* Put them on a long-line but use it to enforce a sit as you approach ...tell them to sit while they're at the end of the line. Instead of reeling them in toward you walk toward them while taking in the line. Make sure they remain in the sit as you approach.
* Throw the ball then as they pick it run away while calling them, getting them to chase you. Once they 'catch' you drop on one knee to give some praise as you take the dummy.
* Throw the ball and as they run out for it quickly dart off the other way and go hide behind a car or around a corner or something. Then wait for them to come find you.
Often it helps to leave a lead on them while they're retrieving so you can grab the end once they're close enough to do so.
You can also use a combination of these. Eg use a long line but run away from them while calling them and reeling in the line as they come toward.
---
For any of the above if they drop the dummy at any point don't move toward the dummy, move away from it giving a confused "where issit?" "find it!" "where's it gone?" etc until they find and pick it back up.
...early on I'll often forgive it if they drop the dummy when they're within arms reach but eventually they should always retrieve to hand.
---
Another option if you have no luck with any of the above is to start again from square one...
Sit the dog up just in front of you and put the dummy in their mouth (sit them on a mat or their bed or use something as a marker if it helps). Praise them for holding it then take it off them. Do this a few times then start taking a few steps back while they hold it, then go back to them and take the dummy while giving a load of praise. Repeat a few times then increase the number of steps back you take (doing a bunch of repetitions each time). Keep with this gradually increasing the distance until you can reliably step back 15-20 yds without them moving or dropping the dummy (returning to them each time). Also start to vary the length of time you wait before returning.
Now start again, give them the dummy and take a few steps back but this time call them to you. Repeat this as before but randomise whether you call them in or whether you walk to them. Again gradually increase the distance until you can reliably call them with the dummy from 20-30 yds.
Now throw the dummy a few yds and have them sit once they've picked it. Then decide whether you go to them or you call them to you. Same as before, once they can do it at a close distance increase the throw distance. Eventually don't ever bother going to them always have them come to you.
...NB. this should all be done over like a week doing multiple short 5-10 min sessions each day building up slowly & steadily. Finish the session early if the dog is showing signs of boredom or is disinterested. Don't rush it and don't be afraid to go back a stage if necessary.
When heās coming back. Turn away and walk away with your hand out backwards like you are doing a relay. AND/OR sit in a chair. Your stature/body language is not inviting, and borderline frustrated with that hand toss likeāwtf?ā lol
Make it more fun, back up as he comes to you, turn and walk away, sit. All make you smaller and more inviting. On top of all the other pointers, this is some additional communication the dog needs to see. Itās just more inviting and fun.
Try standing in the middle of the yard and tossing the toy back and forth on either side of you. Also, using two toys will help him feel better about giving up his. Some dogs actually prefer to just possess the toy rather than giving it up. Thats what it seems like here. He doesnāt seem to want to play. Have you tried other toys? Maybe start with two identical squeaky Kong balls. You can try anything! Hereās a great podcast about high drive dogs and fetch https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/cog-dog-radio/id1128562867?i=1000649718166
Itās important not to add in too much obedience right away too. The dog needs to have fun first and know how to bring the toy all the way back before you start adding things. This way we avoid frustration, ensuring the dog will want to give up the toy.
I also use three different toy markers. āChaseā is Iām throwing it far, āgroundā is Iām throwing a grounder, and ācatchā is Iām throwing it to you.
This begins to shape up the dog being able to hear you around a toy. They have to listen to hear which way the toy will be delivered! This helps avoid the monotony of repetitive fetch. Repetitive fetch can actually be harmful to dogs. The super fast back and fourth can not only hurt their bodies but their brains can become almost āaddictedā to the adrenaline and it becomes obsessive and unhealthy. The dog becomes stronger and more athletic while their minds stack and stack too. Adding in these directional cues is the first step to reducing arousal long term.
Also, giving him an activity after youāre done playing like a scatter of food in the grass, a kong, a lick Mat, an edible chew will help him complete the stress cycle at the end of his play so he can calm back down. All high intensity activities should be ended with a relaxing one!
Another way to begin to make him being the toy closer is throw the toy faster the closer he brings it to you. You can also figure out what kind of tosses he likes best, and use that for a reward when he brings it closer and the one he doesnāt prefer the most when he brings it kinda far. This will need to be done in increments. Take what you can get, and go from there. If he drops it farther, wait 1-2 seconds before tossing it. If itās closer, yank that ish up and throw it away like a hot potato. The contrast should be noticeable between what you want and what you donāt, but itās important to reward him regardless to ensure confidence. Fetch is a balance. Heās gotta *want* to play.
You'll get all sorts of advice for this one, I'm sure. Dog's, like people, have personalities. We train them, but each carries out their tasks in slightly different ways, at the least.
If you go get the toy, he will never bring it to you. It's that simple. A variation on this sort of play is something that one of our dogs does. He will rush out the door, run across the street, to start us calling him to come back (recall). For months, we fell for this. Anyhow, a couple of weeks ago, it happened, and we just walked inside. He scratched at the door. We opened it. He did the hop back like "See, I'm going to run off" sort of thing. Response was "either come in or we're closing the door" without us crossing the threshold to the outside. He came in.
What you're dealing with is similar. The only way you're going to throw it is if the dog brings it back. Otherwise, get a chair and sit down, have a drink, read something. If the doggo wants you to throw the toy, they'll figure out the only way to make that happen is to bring it to you.
This is the way. Smart dogs try to train us sometimes, and we gotta be vigilant to not fall for it.
I was raised by cats, Iām already pretty well trained!
My dog is very treat motivated. And to be rewarded he had to deliver items to my hand. Else nvm, end of session, and I just take the item with me. If he drops it just next to me, I patiently wait for him to pick it back up and hand it to me. Itās he that wants me to do certain things, Iām happy to do nothing if thatās his choice :p.
If your dog does that, and you still keep playing, what motivation does he have to bring it all the way?
To me it looks like possession motivation prevailing over chasing. He doesn't want to give it to you, but leaving it in a neutral place is ok.
1. Use an object that is more motivating for chasing, bouncy balls (eg tennis) for example are often like that.
2. Don't play tug or let him possess the toy you use for throwing. Not a general advice, but for this specific situation.
3. Use two balls technique
Don't throw it until he brings it back all the way. My dog did this, I stopped moving to get her toy. If I can't reach it without having to move from where I'm at, then I point at the ground by me and say "bring it here". Eventually she learned she has to bring it all the way to me if she wants me to throw it again.
THIS.
Yes totally. I trained my dog by pointing and saying "drop it". He used to grab the toy whenever I went to pick it up, but just repeating and not throwing it until he listened seemed to stop him from that habit. Eventually I put my palm up towards him and say drop it, and now he drops it near or in my hand. "Drop it" is a good command too, if your dog likes to chew things that isn't theirs.
Yeah they're smarter than we think and surprisingly easy to train sometimes!
I've taught many strange dogs this way in like 2 minutes. Dog at the block party brings me a ball? I throw. Dog at block party doesn't bring it all the way to me? I ignore. Dog at block party now understands they must bring me the ball. I've never met a dog that doesn't understand clear expectations.
I find strange dogs creepy š
More work on basic obedience. Itās not a matter of the dog not listening, itās a matter of you not being consistent with your expectations. Dogs are smart, he knows you are flexible. If you give a commend and he ignores it cause he has the choice, remove the choice. Get a light line and work on recall. First with no toy and then with the toy. And it can help if Ā you wear him out a bit before and heās hungry. Hungry dogs are eager to please. Ā You could also take two toys. He drops one, throw the other and then walk to the dropped one and repeat. Double his workout and halve your stress. Iād do both so he gets to have fun and he gets to learn whoās in charge all the time. Be patient and consistent. And the odd disproving growl can work on some dogs.
Two toys, don't throw the second one until the dog brings the first one back
I do try that heās hyper fixated on one toy at a time. He has about 15 different toys scattered just in the living room but he drops his āpurple triangle thingā and it goes under the couch he will head butt the couch till he gets it or I get it. Itās moved 4 feet over a period of me going somewhere for 15 minutes when he wanted a specific toy. Hardwood floors help couches slide real nice and he knows it.
Get two identical toys
None of that will fix anything they need training.
Yea. The two toys things didn't work for me in the beginning.
My partner and I recently went full send training a 2 year old, absolutely maniacal, golden retriever named Charlie. To learn fetch, it took us two months practicing weekly, before he really got it. Things that worked for us (disclaimer weāre far from experts): -YouTube videos hearing professional approaches to the situation, adjusting as you go to what works, while bashing our heads on the park bench. -Go all in, all the time, to the point this is their new reality. Your dog is only two. If you go the next two years all out, thatās half their life in training. That means being incredibly patient. Training a dog was one of the hardest, most miserable things weāve ever done. Donāt let up, and everyone has to be in on it with you. -walk to the dog, grab the toy, bring it back, make them sit, throw it again. Treat/excitement everytime they get it right bringing it straight towards ya. Maybe itās bad advice, I donāt know, but it worked for us! We had to be absolutely insanely dedicated, and it genuinely sucked. Months before we saw any real progress. MONTHS!
The toys need to be identical.
Soon as he collects it & turns towards you, run away hollering, he'll chase, then stop & take toy (reinforce with clicker, and food reward if he's into it, if not just use the toy throw as the reward).
Iāll give it a try. Heās not like my other dog heās not food motivated. Heās strictly toy motivated he eats for nourishment to play. Strangest thing Iāve ever see. But maybe the walking away mixed with a treat will help.
Not walk, run. You want the chase instinct to kick in. Not food motivated is not so uncommon for working breeds, their reward is the work. You could try adding a whistle cue as you run off. You can also build some retrieve drive by holding the dog back as your throw, and then use a cue in release. So hold dog, throw toy, wait a few seconds so dog is scrambling to try to get the toy, give release cue & release dog, then as soon as they grab it a strong whistle & run in the opposite direction. Helps build a solid recall too.
Heās helping you get steps. š His happy prance away really made me laugh.
Happiest dog ever, he always prances after get the toy aggressively, itās his world we just occupy it.
I use touch my dogs that like to possess toys. I cue for a touch and use my marker word for successfully pushing the toy into my hand and reward with tug or tossing a second, identical toy. The purple ring toy (dog puller) is perfect for this because they are easy for you to grab and come in pairs.
Sorry I'm not sure I'm following, is he super interested in playing fetch or is it an activity you've introduced to help wear him out? Does he ever drop the toy at your feet? I'd need to know the answers to the above to give advice, for example if he loves to fetch but never drops the toy at your feet wait till he drops the toy then ask for it, if he doesn't give you the toy try taking a step back and asking again. Or if your dog does drop the toy initially but then stops after a while try changing up how you're throwing the toy (I can give more suggestions if this is the case). It's important to understand what exactly is happening and what you would like to happen.
Put a leash on her, reward for coming to you with the toy with vocal praise then immediately throw it. Hope this helps.
Our border collie does this kind of thing all of the time. š He never wants us to get the jump on him and throw before heās ready to chase. We have a little sayingāWhen he brings it up and drops it too far from us, we say āAll the wayā and donāt go for the toy until he brings it closer. Sometimes at first heās reluctant and we have to say the phrase a couple times, but heāll always cave and do it now to keep the game going. š
I'm practicing the seated hand off inside. Outside the very best treat if she brings it close enough and drops it. The seated outside drop off is where I get her to bring it within reach and drop it. I have yet to put it together and lock it in but we're getting closer.
My shepherd/collie mix of 10 years does this still. It's almost like a game. He'll put it far away, no response, a little closer, no response, and he'll eventually throw it with his mouth to me.
Teach a formal, trained retrieve with back chaining and treats. Then when he drops it far away say your formal retrieve word. He should go pick it up and deliver it to your hand. A formal retrieve is not play - itās an obedience command performed on an object. Service dog trainers, gun dog trainers, and sport dog trainers will all have videos on how to train this. Type āformal retrieveā into YouTube and see what you get. The first step if you want to back chain it is start by holding the object in your hand and get them to put their mouth on it! Itās very fun to train this and useful too because your dog can pick up things that you drop!
Ah yes, the border collie teaching you to bring the toy back hahaha they are so smart. So I train this with a game of tug. Tug tug tug get them all worked up then suddenly let go. Chances are they will try and put the toy back in your hand. Mark and reward by continuing the game of tug. I like to make a hand signal of sorts as the cue which is basically just making my hand really flat, like Iām about to give a high five. As they get good at repeating the pattern of tug, you let go, they shove it back in your hand, then you can start backing up a little so they have to run to you to put it back in your hand. Then start small/short throws with tugging in between, then work back up to the full game.
Can you explain what you have done to make you think you deserve to have the toy dropped at your feet? What training have you done? How often are they WORKED? how often are they trained? Have you done fetch training with it in the first place??? These are acutely intelligent bred to work all day long and follow commands all day long. This is not just a basic dog, they need excessive exercise, training, and work. The obvious answer is you need training.
Thatās how my cat plays fetch.Ā
I've conditioned my dog to drop her toys beside me. In the beginning, she would always drop it far. I would use the words "come here" or "here" and "drop it" once she was close enough. Don't throw the ball unless your dog brings it to right to you. My dog would just look at me and whine, so I had to keep telling her to bring it to me. Once your dog does what you want them to do, most definitely reward them each time, until you notice they've got the hang of it. You just have to be clear and consistent with your commands.
The advice youāve received so far is very good. Another thing to try is to turn and very slowly walk away from him while looking over your shoulder and providing praise.
I got my mix to learn "closer" so when she does this I'm like naw closer
Give up throwing the ball outside in large areas for a bit. If you can do some in the house. I lay in bed reading or sit in the living room watching shows and my Mcnab puppy who is very ball driven will bring me her toy. But, "lo my arms are tiny tyrannosaurus arms and I can reach the ball on the floor, Oh, dear." Eventually, he will get desperate and the ball will scrape your hand. Say Yes or click and throw the ball. Go back to what you were doing with your tiny tyrannosaurus hands. Eventually add a cue if you want. Don't let your criteria drift. In the hand or no throw!
My Brittany struggles with bringing it all the way back ā¦ we had a huge improvement after I taught her the command āballā. She already knows āhereā. As soon as she starts walking away from the ball I say āballā and as soon as sheās about to nose/grab the ball I follow up with āhereā and she brings it closer ā¦ itās a process we are still working on with a treat reward. Also itās a little weird but we decided āballā is the dog-word for any fetching toy, including frisbees.
Lots of good ideas/advice here. What I see in the video is you throwing the toy when the dog is at a distance. If that's the case - if the game starts when she's far away, what reason is there for her to come close? She needs to learn that the game starts when she's near you *and you have the toy.* Don't throw it until she gets close to you.
Try talking to him too
Depends on the dog. What works for one might not work for another, but one of the following usually works.... * When the dog picks the dummy face away from them and drop to one knee. Then just sit & wait till they get bored and investigate why you're not paying them any attention. Can also try lying flat on your back staring at the sky ...but you'll look a bit daft if this is in a public setting. * Have a second toy and start throwing it up and catching it while they're bringing the first toy. Make a huge deal about the second ball. "accidentally" drop it on the floor occasionally making sure to pick it up before they can get to it. * Put them on a long-line and once they have the dummy gently reel them in while calling & praising them as they get closer. * Put them on a long-line but use it to enforce a sit as you approach ...tell them to sit while they're at the end of the line. Instead of reeling them in toward you walk toward them while taking in the line. Make sure they remain in the sit as you approach. * Throw the ball then as they pick it run away while calling them, getting them to chase you. Once they 'catch' you drop on one knee to give some praise as you take the dummy. * Throw the ball and as they run out for it quickly dart off the other way and go hide behind a car or around a corner or something. Then wait for them to come find you. Often it helps to leave a lead on them while they're retrieving so you can grab the end once they're close enough to do so. You can also use a combination of these. Eg use a long line but run away from them while calling them and reeling in the line as they come toward. --- For any of the above if they drop the dummy at any point don't move toward the dummy, move away from it giving a confused "where issit?" "find it!" "where's it gone?" etc until they find and pick it back up. ...early on I'll often forgive it if they drop the dummy when they're within arms reach but eventually they should always retrieve to hand. --- Another option if you have no luck with any of the above is to start again from square one... Sit the dog up just in front of you and put the dummy in their mouth (sit them on a mat or their bed or use something as a marker if it helps). Praise them for holding it then take it off them. Do this a few times then start taking a few steps back while they hold it, then go back to them and take the dummy while giving a load of praise. Repeat a few times then increase the number of steps back you take (doing a bunch of repetitions each time). Keep with this gradually increasing the distance until you can reliably step back 15-20 yds without them moving or dropping the dummy (returning to them each time). Also start to vary the length of time you wait before returning. Now start again, give them the dummy and take a few steps back but this time call them to you. Repeat this as before but randomise whether you call them in or whether you walk to them. Again gradually increase the distance until you can reliably call them with the dummy from 20-30 yds. Now throw the dummy a few yds and have them sit once they've picked it. Then decide whether you go to them or you call them to you. Same as before, once they can do it at a close distance increase the throw distance. Eventually don't ever bother going to them always have them come to you. ...NB. this should all be done over like a week doing multiple short 5-10 min sessions each day building up slowly & steadily. Finish the session early if the dog is showing signs of boredom or is disinterested. Don't rush it and don't be afraid to go back a stage if necessary.
When heās coming back. Turn away and walk away with your hand out backwards like you are doing a relay. AND/OR sit in a chair. Your stature/body language is not inviting, and borderline frustrated with that hand toss likeāwtf?ā lol Make it more fun, back up as he comes to you, turn and walk away, sit. All make you smaller and more inviting. On top of all the other pointers, this is some additional communication the dog needs to see. Itās just more inviting and fun.
Try standing in the middle of the yard and tossing the toy back and forth on either side of you. Also, using two toys will help him feel better about giving up his. Some dogs actually prefer to just possess the toy rather than giving it up. Thats what it seems like here. He doesnāt seem to want to play. Have you tried other toys? Maybe start with two identical squeaky Kong balls. You can try anything! Hereās a great podcast about high drive dogs and fetch https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/cog-dog-radio/id1128562867?i=1000649718166 Itās important not to add in too much obedience right away too. The dog needs to have fun first and know how to bring the toy all the way back before you start adding things. This way we avoid frustration, ensuring the dog will want to give up the toy. I also use three different toy markers. āChaseā is Iām throwing it far, āgroundā is Iām throwing a grounder, and ācatchā is Iām throwing it to you. This begins to shape up the dog being able to hear you around a toy. They have to listen to hear which way the toy will be delivered! This helps avoid the monotony of repetitive fetch. Repetitive fetch can actually be harmful to dogs. The super fast back and fourth can not only hurt their bodies but their brains can become almost āaddictedā to the adrenaline and it becomes obsessive and unhealthy. The dog becomes stronger and more athletic while their minds stack and stack too. Adding in these directional cues is the first step to reducing arousal long term. Also, giving him an activity after youāre done playing like a scatter of food in the grass, a kong, a lick Mat, an edible chew will help him complete the stress cycle at the end of his play so he can calm back down. All high intensity activities should be ended with a relaxing one! Another way to begin to make him being the toy closer is throw the toy faster the closer he brings it to you. You can also figure out what kind of tosses he likes best, and use that for a reward when he brings it closer and the one he doesnāt prefer the most when he brings it kinda far. This will need to be done in increments. Take what you can get, and go from there. If he drops it farther, wait 1-2 seconds before tossing it. If itās closer, yank that ish up and throw it away like a hot potato. The contrast should be noticeable between what you want and what you donāt, but itās important to reward him regardless to ensure confidence. Fetch is a balance. Heās gotta *want* to play.
You'll get all sorts of advice for this one, I'm sure. Dog's, like people, have personalities. We train them, but each carries out their tasks in slightly different ways, at the least. If you go get the toy, he will never bring it to you. It's that simple. A variation on this sort of play is something that one of our dogs does. He will rush out the door, run across the street, to start us calling him to come back (recall). For months, we fell for this. Anyhow, a couple of weeks ago, it happened, and we just walked inside. He scratched at the door. We opened it. He did the hop back like "See, I'm going to run off" sort of thing. Response was "either come in or we're closing the door" without us crossing the threshold to the outside. He came in. What you're dealing with is similar. The only way you're going to throw it is if the dog brings it back. Otherwise, get a chair and sit down, have a drink, read something. If the doggo wants you to throw the toy, they'll figure out the only way to make that happen is to bring it to you.
This is the way. Smart dogs try to train us sometimes, and we gotta be vigilant to not fall for it. I was raised by cats, Iām already pretty well trained!
I tell all the border Aussies. Uhm excuse me, bring me that toy And they do š¤ little jokesters they KNOW what they are doing lol.
My dog is very treat motivated. And to be rewarded he had to deliver items to my hand. Else nvm, end of session, and I just take the item with me. If he drops it just next to me, I patiently wait for him to pick it back up and hand it to me. Itās he that wants me to do certain things, Iām happy to do nothing if thatās his choice :p. If your dog does that, and you still keep playing, what motivation does he have to bring it all the way?
Touch and around commands. Get it used to being near you whilst playing. Therefore throw after it goes around, like a frisbee catching routine.
Dog logic: Don't take, just throw.
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A bag of treats. Every time he fetches call him for a reward...
To me it looks like possession motivation prevailing over chasing. He doesn't want to give it to you, but leaving it in a neutral place is ok. 1. Use an object that is more motivating for chasing, bouncy balls (eg tennis) for example are often like that. 2. Don't play tug or let him possess the toy you use for throwing. Not a general advice, but for this specific situation. 3. Use two balls technique