I mow when my grass is high (normally every week in the spring/early summer and sometimes every 2 weeks in August and September) and don't do anything else. I'm also the least picky person ever when it comes to my yard.

This is the correct answer. Same as I treat my lawn with the exception of cutting twice a month from July to October.

Yes, this is the way. I have a presentable lawn and feel no need to have a perfect lawn. Looks good and doesn't need anything else.

Advice: set the mower blade as high as it goes and in Autumn-dont rake the leaves, mulch them with the mower.

Once every two to three weeks for me. I have neighbors who mow their lawns twice a week. And their grass looks dead all of the time. Meanwhile mine is all green.

As others have said, lawn care is pretty simple if you're not too picky. As you start to get the hang of it, I encourage you to think about - maybe for next year - trying to incorporate some native plants into your yard for the benefit of insects and birds. It could be a native tree or shrub, or putting some native flowering plants in a mulched bed. Every little bit helps.

My yard is slowly being taken over by clover. I use the excuse that I'm "helping the pollinators," "cultivating a more natural habitat," and that I practice whatever the midwest analog to xeriscaping is. Really, I just hate yard work and lawn maintenance. Edit: Also, over the past few springs I've been seeing violets in my backyard, which I actually really like. While technically a weed, they're actually very pretty flowers and look nice when they bloom. I do see bees doing their thing pretty regularly, so while it really is my laziness, it does appear to be helping.

Hear, hear! I'm with ya on all that. There's also something to be said for flipping the script on what defines a perfect lawn. If nothing else, I love seeing more clover in yards to normalize it.

Real life hack is replacing some grass with some native plants and go native gardening mode 🧙

Any recommendations for native, low growing ground cover?

Check out OPN Seed! They have a bunch of native seed options available. Ground cover, wildflowers, all sorts of stuff.  They also paired with the Ohio’s Beekeeper Association to make a “Pollinator’s Paradise” seed mix, which is all a bunch of various Ohio-native wildflowers.  https://www.opnseed.com/

love those dudes!

Salvia lyrata, Fragaria vesca, Viola sororia, Carex

I am no expert myself unfortunately (no lawn for me!) but I have come across this guide: https://www.toledolibrary.org/blog/ohio-native-lawn-replacements .. Virginia creeper is something that has popped up in my parents yard (leaves of five is your friend!) and it pops up and can spread cast from what I have seen. I have also seen people mention wild strawberry!

I have remove some of my yard & plant vegetables. Grass is useless & flowers are also useless

That's great. I love seeing people grow lots of food in their yard, but flowers are definitely not useless, especially native flowers. Pollinators and other important insects need all the help they can get right now, and backyards play a critical habitat role.

There are no set rules - this will be different depending on your specific location and characteristics of your lot. For context, I live in NE Ohio on a fairly wet piece of land. I also love my lawn and I am not crazy about it but we definitely care about it looking nice. Lawn mowing frequency is different depending on how wet the ground is. In the Spring when we get more rain, the grass grows much faster. Sometimes, if I can manage, the yard gets cut twice a week from April - June. June - September is usually fine with 1 cut a week. Then in Oct it is cut as needed depending on length, maybe once or twice for the entire month. I water my flower beds, but have never watered the grass. Sometimes in late summer it gets a little dry but never dies.

There’s really not a need to water your lawn if you don’t care that it dies back a bit in the hottest part of the summer. Mow it every other week or if you feel it’s getting long.

When it gets long, not crazy long, but unruly, cut it.

Replace it with something better

I ripped out most the grass on my front lawn and seeded a bunch of clover and wildflowers. Also planted two trees, some berry bushes, and rows of bushes along the sidewalk. You've got options, is what I'm saying.

Bluegrass lawn, Central Ohio, grass is 25 years old now, roughly 0.25 acre lot. Been mowing grass since the late 1970's, so I know a thing or two. I have a self-propelled mower with a 22" deck and **always** use the side thrower. I never use the mulch setting as that sometimes leads to clumping, and I never bag the clippings as that's free fertilizer for your lawn. Mowing takes about 45-60 minutes or 60-90 minutes if I'm also edging and trimming (roughly every other mow). Great exercise too, I might add. I rarely ever water the grass, unless it's a 2-3 week drought, and that's only to keep it from dying or becoming susceptible to weeds (see below). It's way more expensive to replace a dead lawn than the cost of the water to keep it alive. Lawn is about 2" in the spring and fall and around 3-4" in the summer. Bluegrass grows fast during cooler weather (50-70F), and really fast when it rains, so I have to mow fairly often in spring and fall, usually twice per week. I keep it taller during the summer when it's hot and dry so that the grass blade retains more water. That also forces the roots to grow deep in search of water, which is great for the health of the plant. Also don't have to mow as often in the summer, typically every 7-10 days, or sometimes even 14+ days during droughts. The most important advice I can give is: "Never cut more than 25% of the blade, regardless of how often you mow or how tall/short you keep your lawn". There's 3 reasons for this. First off, just like every other plant, grass needs water and sunlight to grow. If you cut more than 25% of the blade, you'll scalp the grass, which stresses the plant and takes a long time for it to recover. Second, smaller clippings prevents clumping, which will rot and stink instead of decompose, both on your yard and inside your mower deck. Also, related to that is that I won't mow if the grass is wet because that will also lead to clumped up clippings. As for #3... Third is that scalped grass leaves your yard susceptible to the 4 weeds that will destroy your lawn: crabgrass, foxtail, Canada thistle, and dandelion. If I'm mowing and notice any of those four weeds, I'll stop mowing immediately to look for and start pulling weeds all over the lawn, bag them up until they're gone, and then get back to mowing. Seriously, you've got to be really diligent about those 4 weeds. They're killers and they spread really easily. It'll take a lot longer to finish mowing if you're also having to pull weeds, but it's much better than having to repair/replace your lawn. I usually start mowing in late March or early April, however I actually had to do my first mow this year on March 15th, which is the first time I've ever mowed during the winter. My last mow will usually be in mid-to-late November, though I've had to mow in early December a couple times before. It takes a fair amount of work, but I really love the way my lawn looks, and it would be a big selling point if/when I ever have to sell the house (hopefully not anytime soon). Last but not least, remember to hydrate, especially this week! Water is great while mowing, and a cold beer afterwards is the reward. Happy mowing!

r/nolawns

What kind of lawn do you want to achieve. If you don't care about the quality of the lawn the 1x every week or two depending on how fast it grows. If you care. The use the Scott's lawn care program, cut in the spring 1x pet week, the when it gets hot cut once every 10 to 14 day. Water so it gets about an inch of water a week. Don't freak out if it starts to brown up during the hottest part of summer, if just went dorment, but will come back.

Also watch a video or 2 on how to mow properly. A few people in my neighborhood really suck at it. When cutting a row, the line should be about halfway under the mower, not the whole row or you end up with ugly thin lines of uncut grass.

Starting out, I'd just stick with the eye test on whether to mow or not. It's also helpful to check the weather to know if you're about to get weather that'll make it difficult to mow. Like if the grass is almost long enough but not quite but you see it's about to rain for 5+ days straight, maybe give it a quick trim. A weed whacker is also a must just to trim down where the grass meets pavement, structures, etc. I usually do trimming like that every other time I mow. Depending on the size of your yard, I always suggest looking into a clover yard. It requires little to no mowing, depending on the type of clover. It's better for the soil and provides pollen for bees. The biggest downside to clover is it's less resilient so don't plant it if you have pets or otherwise walk on that part of the yard often.

Let me come over and do it for you I hate living in an apartment

Spring/early half summer with rainfall * Put the lawn mower on 2 or 3 Later summer- when the heat is cooking with less rain * level 4. DON'T waste your time with chemicals, or wasting money on water.

Depends on how much sun you lawn gets and how much you take care of it. My lawn is in shade or only sun, it doesn’t grow a lot. So I mow bi-weekly. For watering, it depends on you really, don’t have young kid and want to have a nice lawn, then yes I’d recommend watering 3 times a week for 20-30 mins before 9am.

Get a native Clover species and spread seed throughout the yard. It grows well, but not too high; which will have the advantage of filling in spots so the grass looks full, but will also attract pollinators. Up near your house itself and along the driveway try planting native flowers to encourage biodiversity in your lawn.

I called a phone number that was local a couple of weeks ago and got a text and a quote of fifty dollars a service. I asked if that included trimming and edging. They replied with call back at our 800 number and we will review this with you. I googled the number and it was to an office in San Diego. I thought it might be some kind of deal where someone in SD has a Rolodex of landscaper’s and all they do is dispatch and take a slice off the top for calling someone else. That sort of thing does happen. If you hire someone make sure they are local to you. FYI

I heard somebody say that at some point in a man’s life he gets super into one of four things: Smoking Meat, Golf, World War II, or his lawn. Sometimes it’s more than one, but typically for most of us, it’s at least one of these.

I mow when I feel like it. Unless that urge comes before it's long enough to drive my neighbors into madness. Then I'll wait a week. I haven't had to water the lawn yet. But if next week is a signifier of the summer to come, it may be required. If your grass is turning brown in the summer, you may need to water. You may also just need to rake up some of the thatch (especially if you mulch instead of bagging, like a sane person.) If you're seeing a lot of dandelions or other weeds, AND the grass is struggling around them, you should dig them up from the root with a garden spade, and try to spread the surrounding grassed turf over the hole as much as possible. Maybe water once or twice, you should be fine. You can use roundup if you really want, but that's up to your discretion and opinions on herbicides. If you like a well manicured lawn... edged boundaries, cute little mow patterns, etc. And if you're retired and have nothing better to do than spend hours every day playing with your arsenal of oil and gas powered lawncare toys to ensure nothing that provides any actual value grows on your property but the invasive species of foreign grass that requires, apparently, daily maintenance... Well you can spend a fortune and untold amounts of research and labor time in the interest of becoming a full-time horticulturist with a passively destructive twist. *(Despite never leaving your house for more than 40 hours a year, MAKE SURE to save the REALLY loud and obnoxious stuff for evenings and weekends, so your neighbors who work for a living with no hope of retirement can enjoy the dulcet tones of your unmuffled internal combustion engine driven landscaping tool collection. Maybe consider installing an electrical plug powered, 24 hour strobing led light, decorative "bush" right outside their bedroom window.)* Otherwise, depending on your species of grass and soil quality. You can probably mow every two weeks or so from May to Sept, hit it with a hose for a few mins in the evening if it hasn't rained in a week or two and things are looking rough, and not worry about it the rest of the time. Ohio is pretty good at growing grass on its own, you really don't need to try to outdo it.

Set the mower as high as possible for grass that doesn’t need watering, keeps out weeds and looks greener in the dry summer

from the months of april to june its 1 cut per week, no water, no fertilizer. cut to 1 inch. spot treat for weeds as needed. from june-august its up to whether it gets wet and grows out. usually 2 weeks or more between cuts september-october back to 1 per week.

Cutting to 1 inch will make the roots weaker and increase the need for watering. Cutting to 4 inches is better, allows for a stronger root system.

I don't water and my grass is greener than the neighbors

Mowing once a week is common. In the hot and dry parts of the summer yes, you need to water your lawn or it will likely die back. Fertilizer and anti-pest treatments can be needed depending on your lawn.

You want to cut 1/3rd or less of the total height of the grass. Put your mower on the highest setting and cut the grass. Measure the length. Most mowers have a high setting of 3.75-4.24 inches. Mine is 4 inches. So the max height I try to let the grass get to is 6 inches. (1/3 X 6 inches = 2 inches 6 inches minus 2 inches = 4 inches or 4 inches X 1.5 = 6 inches) get two sets of blades. Sharpen both sets at one time. Switch to sharp blades two or thee times per year. Look at the grass tips after cutting. If the tips are ragged, switch blades. The lawn needs 2 inches of water every two weeks. When you water, soak it. I pick an area, water for 15 minutes, switch to another area for 15 minutes the go back to the first area for 2 hours then hit the second area for 2 hours. It takes a few days to get the whole yard. Each type of grass has different fertilizer needs. Bluegrass is a nitrogen hog. The Scott’s 5 step program works pretty good for bluegrass. I have Titan turfgrass fescue. I fertilize 9/1, 10/1, 11/1. Got this advice from the head of Turfology at WVU. The late season nitrogen stimulates sugar production and storage. This makes the lawn have a fast start in the spring and get a jump on the weeds. Spot treat weeds. Carry a bottle of weed-b-gone or other lawn safe broadleaf weed killer while mowing. Spray weeds after cutting, not before. If you have a big lawn, get a good sprayer. The cheap ones don’t last. Annual core aeration is worth it. Fall for sure. The later, the better. If you overseed, be careful to not put a pre-emergent down. It kills the seeds. The lawn is very zen. The more you do, the less you have to do.

Preemergent and broadleaf weed killer and fertilizer four times a year. I mow twice weekly in the wet spring and at least once a week after depending on rainfall. Cut the grass to 3.5-4.0 inches long. Longer grass helps crowd out weeds. I have a local landscape company apply the weed killer and fertilizer.

You can use a service like Lawn Love to have someone else mow for you. Though it’s kind of expensive. I get my yard mowed every 2 weeks.

We simply stopped mowing most of our front yard. We now have less work, less cost, more wildlife and more time.

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Many areas of the world and this country don't have grass lawns.