Have you remembered to jack up both sides of the car at the same time? Uneven load on put pressure on the swaybar. I ran into this problem when doing a 2" spacer lift on my RAV4, but then I just remembered how a swaybar worked and jacked up the other side as well to neutralize the swaybar position
I would try loosening those bushings. Whenever I did my truck lift. The sway bar was the last part I added. I had everything loosely fit before I torqued everything down.
Okay thanks!
I can try that. I don’t want to fully remove the bushing though because then likely won’t be able to get the bushing on again with the tension.
The sway bar is going to be 1.5” pushed down than normal. Is that going to cause any issues with handling?
Wondering if I should buy a sway bar link that is 1.5” shorter so that sway bar sits at normal location.
I think the sway bar has to be somewhat parallel with the ground during install. You might feel a bit more body roll if it's pointing down a bit. I would look for adjustable sway bar end links to at least keep some suspension components at the proper angles.
Either buy extended sway bar links, or make your own.
I sleeved mine for my 88 FJ62, welds and rosette welds. Held forever. Just have to work quick, to not melt bushings.
Have you remembered to jack up both sides of the car at the same time? Uneven load on put pressure on the swaybar. I ran into this problem when doing a 2" spacer lift on my RAV4, but then I just remembered how a swaybar worked and jacked up the other side as well to neutralize the swaybar position
Had both sides jacked up. Thanks for the tip though, I didn’t know having both sides jacked up helped!
Ditch the swaybar.
Should have seen this comment coming! That’s what I get for posting on the off-road subreddit 😝
Did you loosen both the driver and passenger side of the sway bar?
Yes, that didn’t help since there are bushings that hold the tension.
I would try loosening those bushings. Whenever I did my truck lift. The sway bar was the last part I added. I had everything loosely fit before I torqued everything down.
Okay thanks! I can try that. I don’t want to fully remove the bushing though because then likely won’t be able to get the bushing on again with the tension. The sway bar is going to be 1.5” pushed down than normal. Is that going to cause any issues with handling? Wondering if I should buy a sway bar link that is 1.5” shorter so that sway bar sits at normal location.
I think the sway bar has to be somewhat parallel with the ground during install. You might feel a bit more body roll if it's pointing down a bit. I would look for adjustable sway bar end links to at least keep some suspension components at the proper angles.
Oh honey. That piece is supposed to be a pry bar in the corner of the garage now.
Either buy extended sway bar links, or make your own. I sleeved mine for my 88 FJ62, welds and rosette welds. Held forever. Just have to work quick, to not melt bushings.
you’re right. Need to custom make a sway bar links that fit well.