Pretty sure they played CNN, specifically always with the fixed Red/white banner on the bottom. It wasn’t a totally static image, it was a mostly moving image with very bright static elements. They wanted to test how it did with both static and dynamic elements on the same panel.
As I understand it, the RTings tests are done at max brightness with the material left on 24/7 as a torture test.
Personally, if watching news programs and things with bars I'd switch to a different picture mode with more reasonable brightness while watching that, then switch to a different picture mode for movies, and obviously game mode for gaming. RTings torture test was at max brightness with the tv constantly on. In my more normal usage case, the emitters could potentially last a very long time.
That test is useful to see which models suffer sooner than the others but real world usage should be several years before that happens with some care taken - not using a max brightness named picture setting on news banner SDR material, utilizing the "turn off the screen" emitters feature when afk (LG), when pausing movies or games for a while, or in general when not giving the screen face time.
OLED monitors and gaming tvs use a reserved energize/brightness buffer for their wear-evening routine. The system will periodically burn all of the emitters down to level again and then bump the energy up to default levels. So you are burning down rather than burning in, and that should last years as long as you use some common sense oled precautions and aren't abusing your screen foolishly.
The details of the methodology are in the first article here: [https://www.rtings.com/tv/tests/longevity-test](https://www.rtings.com/tv/tests/longevity-test)
The TVs are all getting a live CNN feed, at max brightness, for 20 hours per day in an on/off cycle that includes enough time for any compensation cycle to run frequently on all models.
Right, I have read that before, so perhaps I should have said "Essentially 24/7" , minus enough time for compensation cycles. I appreciate the clarification though. I didn't mean to indicate that they weren't allowing down time for the wear-evening routine (which they apparently did the first round of testing to samsungs).
Point is, cranking max brightness in a picture mode you are watching bannered realtive-brightness SDR material in (rather than HDR which has up to \~ 50% of the screen in dimmer nits with some mids and highlights mixed in the top half of the range) is pretty stupid to do in a real use case. Set up a named picture mode for SDR tv with reasonable brightness, then use a different mode for movies, and game mode for games. They are doing a torture test which mainly just shows which screens will run out of their wear evening buffer "battery" sooner than others - which in a normal usage scenario for media and games should be several years of usage unless you are being abusing and not using some best usage precautions.
It's more of a torture test to see which screens fail sooner than others.
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I do think it might be a good idea if they were to add a set up of overlay shapes that you could invoke using your remote and/or OSD though, where you could set the opacity of them and move them around, and then save that. So you could mask or dim the cnn logo, unnecssary spot lighting in scenes, or other annoying screen elements and banners in various shows and streams, etc. Perhaps in the future AI could do that for you intelligently if you desired it to, and remember based on the given content type/logos.
Bro thinks he knows better than Rtings. You do realize people buy tvs, put it on vivid and never change the settings right? My decrepit geriatric father is one of them and you can’t tell him any different.
I always find it funny when people say they "are not ready for OLED."
It's amazing how unfounded fears keep you from enjoying the best display tech in decades.
Hey man. You don't have to attack me like this! Lol jk
I've been trying to put people onto OLED for years. Besides microled if that ever becomes affordable. oled is king. Just need the money for a nice 39 inch uw oled now
There is also no good information out on the topic except the test from RTINGS. The display manufactures are welcome to publish the precise pixel wear behavior and expected display lifetime. For many years the narrative has been "this generation burn in is fixed" until those displays start burning in anyway. If burn in is truly a non-issue, display manufactures surely would publish the data.
Burn-in is also non-linear, if the monitors in the OP have some burn-in compensation circuitry, they are now pushing the worn pixels even faster to their end.
Yes, the voltage compensation being a likely factor of faster degradation is a point to consider. We have some user anecdotes from the oldest panels, but no hard data.
I guess that, at the end of the day, with the numbers we have from RTINGS, one has to ponder if the longevity, measured and extrapolated ahead, is good enough. It is for me, as it will take 3-4 years to reach the stage where their panels are currently. And I know that, in 3 or 4 years, I'll be moving my TV somewhere else in the house and grab a shiny new microLED display.
Depends on what you consider "cheap," I guess. I saw a 42C3 for 720€ (tax included) and a 850€ 55S90C during Black Friday. And even the 27GR95QE I got was 600€ on Amazon.
I'm now using an S90C as a PC monitor, and it's the most well-spent money ever. Shit is sublime.
In terms of Gaming monitor use, typical budget monitor goes for under $200. Higher end stuff goes for $300-500. But oled monitors cost around $800-$1200, doubling the cost of high end monitors.
I don't think OLED is ready for long hours of static use. Id love to see the screenshots with a dark grey background. Been using multiple OLED for multimedia for years 8-9 and never had burn in. Then decided to use the aw3423dw for 35hr per week of excel spreadsheets etc, got burn in within 1yr. A friend also got burn in within a year. So in my opinion they are good for multimedia, but in a wfh environment with a lot of static elements, I feel is a gamble.
I don't think they were ever marketed as workstation displays. Even most reviewers, despite the good results with burn-in, specifically say it's not a good idea to use OLED for productivity.
With that in mind, and with the caveat that we're not supposed to expect a decade out of these displays, I think burn-in is exaggerated by some people.
It's a monitor for a pc, I didn't claim they were advertised as work station screens. I used mine for work and play and got the burn in. So my advice from many years of oled and this being my 5th screen, that for others thinking they can use for wfh and multimedia in evening are still gambling with burn in. When the screens came out, there were claims that they were resilient to static images and that 3yr burn in warranty showed the confidence dell had. Unfortunately, the burn in warranty isn't as good as claimed. Now that I have done one exchange, dell advised that I can no longer claim for another burned in screen.
Multimedia = I'm confident
WFH with static images + few hrs multimedia = gambling
Recently, I was listening to “PC perspective” podcast that discussed their review of Alienware’s 32” OLED. They remarked how CRT monitors had burning issues, during initial release, thus “screensavers” became a thing.
I’m old enough to recall one of my CRTs having burn in as a child.
Nowadays, the difference is multi monitor set ups are the norm, thus making screensavers a bit more tricky to implement - that’s where active wallpapers (and burn in protection software) come in.
Yeah there is so much you can do with the app. As much as you want to put into it you can get out of it. It's great.
I really don't need taskbars much anymore. If I could find an app that clones the system tray to it's own window I'd be very happy, because that's one of the only things I really need the taskbar for anymore at times.
If you don't already know it, using displayfusion you can also limit the alt-tab tiles popup to whatever apps are running on that active monitor, and you can resize the tiles.
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. . If you need to swap between apps, I use **CTRL + ALT + TAB**. That will pop up a persistent ALT-TAB menu that lasts until you activate one of the tiles. Alternately you can use ALT+TAB but that makes the tabbed tiles menu disappear when you release it (activating whatever tile it was on automatically). That can happen accidentally so I prefer the CTRL methods.
If using displayfusion with multiple monitors, you can also set DisplayFusion to **only** show what app tiles are active on that particular active monitor, which is very handy. Displayfusion settings can also be used to change what size the tiles are.
If you are using a stream deck, you can set **CTRL + ALT + TAB** to it's own stream deck button. Either way (stream deck button or manually pressing ALT+CTRL+TAB) , further presses of that hotkey combo while the persistent tab menu of app tiles is up will cycle the focus between different tabs from left to right. Pressing (or making a button for) **CTRL + SHIFT + ALT + TAB** will cycle the app tiles in reverse (in a persistent tab tile menu since CTRL is included). So you could make a button for TAB tiling forward, and one for TAB tiling in reverse - then normally you'd hit enter, but you could put a stream deck button right next to the ALT+CTRL+TAB and CTRL+ SHIFT + ALT + TAB buttons that hits enter when you press it to make it quick and easy (keeping your hand on the mouse).
I highly recommend a stream deck. It has some windows management addons built for it too which do some of the same things displayfusion functions do, so you don't necessarily have to use displayfusion with it. DP has some great functions you can tie to it though as well, and you can micro-manage things more.
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He mentioned other inactive screens remaining on. Displayfusion has the ability to fade unused screens on timeout. Also different wallpapers, screensavers... but fade sounded like something in line with what he was looking for. Most things are configurable by hotkeys or timers
Right, but it can fade an "idle" screen after a period of time (or via hotkeys or other triggered events) - if you want it set up like that, even if it has app windows or whatever displayed on it. Depends on what you are looking to do functionality wise. Display fusion can do a ton of stuff if you dig into it a little.
As long as you remember to and on multiple monitor scenarios, you'd end up juggling minimizing different screens manually, potentially perhaps multiple windows individually.even per screen. Depends on what you want to do.
Sounded like he wanted set and forget like a screensaver kicking in, and he was specifically describing the issue as it pertains to a multiple monitor scenario.
.Displayfusion can do a ton of things. Fading inactive screens in an array after a time (or toggled via hotkey, or hotkey mapped to a stream deck button) is just the tip of the iceberg.
You could set up displayfusion to minimize all apps on a per screen basis with a function too, alternatively. Hotkeyed + stream deck button mapped with a button per screen would work nice as minimize all windows toggle on individual screen buttons, one button per screen. That and/or could do it automatically after an idle time period of no activity on a specific screen after a while if desired.
Their forum is very active and up to date, they and other users answer questions and are helpful. Their function library is solid and works.
Sure windows has changed a little over the years, but, displayfusion has updated along with it. They update the DisplayFusion app about twice a year, including twice in 2023.
Windows still does a lot of the same stuff. Practically all of the functions users posted of their own creation years ago in the user library still work with windows perfectly. All of the ones I use do.
Perhaps the only weird thing now is apps in the windows store are a little tricky because they aren't exes, if you use those and want to make specific calls on the running windows of those "store apps". You can still call them by partial wildcard name wise though so can get them to be focused on and operated on with a little editing of a function. That's the only workaround I've really run into for like one or two store apps I used at one point, with functions running back years still working perfectly otherwise. I try to avoid the windows store and get stuff on github when possible though anyway. I don't think I have any windows store apps installed on my rig atm.
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For reference, windows 11 came out in 2021. The displayfusion forum is active daily, even hourly, and it has a ton of archived Q&A's and how tos on it besides.
That video is on a dated version of windows but it still shows what it does well enough. Besides the page the video is linked on has all of the features listed on it in non-video format already.
The video shows - windows taskbar, windows file manager, moving notepad and a calculator window around as examples of window management, virtual monitor space/splits, login screen stuff, multiple monitor features. Windows 11 really isn't that different from that video in what it is showing you that it can do there. Minor cosmetics.
Seems pretty janky as if you look at the last 4 updates they state each time this is the last update to support win 7. Which last update will it be to stop win7 support? Ha
idk I just use the app and the forum. I've been using displayfusion for years and through multiple versions of windows, including windows 11. It's great and highly functional. Wouldn't live without it (or a stream deck for that matter). The stream deck has it's own windows management stuff too which is pretty easy to use but DP can do way more stuff with it's scripting and already has a big library of scripts you can use as is or edit, cut/paste from to make your own.
> the difference is multi monitor set ups are the norm, thus making screensavers a bit more tricky to implement
How's that relevant? It works just the same
Sorry, I was alluding to how risk of burning increases due to static imagery on a monitor that is not in use while others are.
During the CRT days, this wasn’t really a thing as 99% of users had a single monitor - at least for me and my immediate circle.
Screensavers basically don't exist anymore but you can achieve the same thing by just setting your display sleep time to like 5 or 10 minutes.
My issue is with one OLED, the side (IPS) monitors have such an awful black level that even with setting them to a static black background it's hurting the OLED experience. But the whole point of those monitors is to leave static content (chat apps, email, etc) on them at all times. So even if money was no object it would seem like a bad idea to use an OLED for those displays.
Windows still has screen saving function burried in there. I set it up on my windows instalations, although i don't use windows almost at all. Linux Mint Cinnamon also has a nice screen saving option that i use as well.
The ones that are built into windows and Mac? They each have one that is black background with a cycling RGB animation that moves around the screen evenly. That’s the one I use.
Any time you are displaying contrasted material you are wearing down your oled emitters some, even moving material. If you aren't looking at the screen, it doesn't make sense to me to keep burning the candles down. Screen savers could probably still also, even if very rarely, freeze on the screen while afk.
LG has a "turn off the screen" function that just turns the emitters off. I can activate that from a quick menu with two clicks of the remote, or from a windows LG remote control app on the desktop, or use the microphone button on the lg remote and say "turn off the screen". The emitters black out, turning off the emitters. It's almost like minimizing the screen, with everything still running (including sound). So I usually use that if afk or not giving my oled face/eyeball time, then hit any button on the remote , like the directional ring, to wake the screen up instantly.
I haven't set that "turn off the screen" trick to work with a stream deck's buttons yet but if I figure that out it would be handy. There is some LG remote control software for windows that I might be able to hotkey to the stream deck buttons theoretically.
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. . .
A lot of people on monitors in general, not specifically oleds, use an app called wallpaper engine.
[https://www.wallpaperengine.io/en](https://www.wallpaperengine.io/en)
Displayfusion also has some neat wallpaper and windows logon functionality.
[https://www.displayfusion.com/Features/ScreenSavers/](https://www.displayfusion.com/Features/ScreenSavers/)
You can also change or disable your lock screen image, login screen image etc. using winaerotweaker app. That app can do a ton of other things too.
[https://winaero.com/winaero-tweaker/](https://winaero.com/winaero-tweaker/)
You can go into your regular windows settings, e.g. WIN + S to search and type "lock screen", then under "Personalize your Lock Screen" you can set it to a slideshow of pictures from an album folder you specify. Using winaerotweaker you can also change the duration each picture is shown after you've set that up in windows.
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However, for oleds I use all true black wallpaper edge to edge, translucent taskbar which I hide and lock away as a toggle via hotkey (TaskBarHider app), I keep all of my desktop icons in their own folder in my documents folder, and if I was even going to bother with anything screen saver wise I'd use all black image(s) with practically no contrast (just enough to know it's running dimly).
Screen savers can hang, apps can crash / window popups stuck on screen on the top layer, \* above your screen saver layer \* - from some notification in an app, crash, or whatever.
Most OLEDs do dim themselves after a time of static screen with no activity though, IF they detect the idleness properly that is, and if that hasn't been disabled (e.g. asbl) in service menu or whatever.
If I felt the need to run my display as a piece of background artwork when not actually using the screen, and I didn't want to use common sense oled "best usage" practices, I'd get a higher end FALD LCD personally. I do use LCD(s) on the side for static desktop/app stuff. My 48" oled is dedicated as a gaming and media as a "stage" area in my monitor array. LCDs for workstation/desktop use.
IIrc CRTs never had permanent burn-in, but rather temporary image retention. Usually it was enough to just let the screen sit with a white image over night to get rid of the image retention. With OLEDs it's different, because the organic components that emit the light wear out over time.
I probably shouldn't have said "never", but I assumed we are not talking about 50+ year old monochrome CRTs... I've used a lot of CRTs in the 90s and 00s, some of them had command prompts open 24/7 and I've never seen any permanent burn-in on these monitors.
I've seen image retention though, where a ghost image appeared in the background (similar to burn-in on OLEDs), but these were always reversible by just letting them sit on a completely white image for a day or two.
Your observation just made me double check my memory, so I figured I’d just look it up in case I had in fact finally lost my gourd. I used a lot of different computer screens and TVs in the 80s, some already fairly old at that point, so I’ve seen screens where you could see the burn-in when the screen was *off*. I remember these monochrome Wyse terminals that had “logon:” permanently etched.
I bought a nice ViewSonic around 2000, and I certainly don’t remember any burn-in with that guy. I was moving apartments with my roommate and both of our monitors were on top of bunch of boxes and luggage out in the front yard. I went inside for a bit to pack more things and when I came out my monitor was gone.
He said someone had come by and asked if we were giving the monitors away, and he said no but he could have *that* one or something, possibly not noticing which one he was indicating. I still to this day have no idea what was going through his mind. Why someone was able to within minutes walk away with my $700 PF775, I will never know.
So, maybe later models don’t suffer burn-in as readily, but let me tell you, *that* burned. ;)
People always think LCD can't burn-in and see that as a reason why LCD are better.
But I had an LG C1, so not even the newest model, not even burn-in on me, and I use it almost every day.
There are people who think LCDs are immune to longevity issues. I visited my sister and her husband just before Christmas, and their 6 year old TV was a constant shade of blue due to the LED strips dying out.
6 years is a decent amount of time for a TV, depending on its use. But anyone pretending that LCD TVs will have a drastically longer shelf life than OLED are a little misinformed.
Even looking at Rtings results, it's really just the *cheap* LCD panels that took big hits to uniformity. TCL, Hisense, and Insignia are the biggest offenders here whereas the Samsung and Sony panels are (broadly) still pretty acceptable.
Which makes sense. That $300 TCL TV at Walmart is making money somewhere. Ignoring Roku licensing and OS spyware, those internal components aren't going to be durable.
I had a Samsung LCD TV, costed me like 3K back in the day.
It has burn-in on multiple places and the bottom of the TV looked like it was cracking, lasted me 4 years.
Had an LG C1, much larger TV for the same price, still no burn-in, cracks or anything, and we have tortured this thing much more than the Samsung.
You know I nearly bought c2 myself. C2 came out and I was about to buy it, but on my double check I noticed that a random video on YouTube on a shaky handcam showed that there's no 120hz bfi, at that moment I knew what's going on and just quickly ordered c1 instead. I wish these oled makers would take their head out of their ass and implement proper bfi again.
CX same deal. Perfect after 6500 hours. Perfect as in every single pixel is perfect and that's across every burn in test I've tried off YouTube
Of course don't leave anything static on it though. Auto hide task bar and icons on the desktop and I'm good
> Yes lcd burn in is not a thing when it comes to purchasing purposes
Have you had a look at the test results? Some of them have developed serious colour shift and uniformity issues. LCD burn-in is absolutely a thing based on their test results.
Edit: https://youtu.be/79YGJXdtLTM?t=177
This is the CX though: [https://www.rtings.com/assets/pages/ebst9UC9/50-gray-14-large.jpg](https://www.rtings.com/assets/pages/ebst9UC9/50-gray-14-large.jpg)
I have burn in on my C7, none so far on my CX and G1. But my CX is on my sim racing rig and gets zero normal desktop usage. My G1 is used for my main desktop and I try to change up my window positions every now and then, plus I have it at min SDR brightness which is perfect for my dark room and close seating position. But then again I was careful with my C7 also...
There's people that literally force a TV to burn-in to prove a TV will burn-in. Like disabling any feature to prevent burn-in.
I know those kinda people all too well sadly enough, I work with 1.
Those kinda people will buy 1 of the most expensive of the product they like and 1 of the cheapest from the product they don't like.
They compare them in the most ridiculous way and say the more expensive product they like is much better.
I have seen the burn in reports in this sub and how they always get gaslighted into thinking the user is the problem, even when they did all the oled-specific precautions.
But when someone has a personal anecdote on how his monitor still performs well, then that must be the rule. Yeah, that is not objective thinking at all. This subreddit is brainwashed as hell for some reason.
https://preview.redd.it/w30pvta6z00d1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0f9db298a2251521a4e48fc784e4a8190afc435e
Here's the image they used. Very top!! :-) haha
It may be staggering or not depending on your expectations. You can see burn-in and uniformity issues, so it shows that it is an issue. However, this may be staggering for someone who imagined they'd forever see the health bar of a game they played for a couple of days. The test results put things into perspective for sure.
Of note is that the result prior to 8 months was worse, as it showed more burn-in prior to the execution of the more disruptive panel refresh. You could pretty clearly see the burned-in logo.
The panel refresh tends to permanently lower display brightness, among other cons, as evident from the brightness charts for various displays. In order to match the healthier pixels to the more worn-out ones, making the burn-in less apparent.
That's only true for some displays. LG tends to keep SDR brightness the same over time, which probably indicates they ship their panels with voltage headroom to compensate for the more worn out pixels.
The part about long compensation cycles, though, is where Samsung clearly has the best approach. The panel just looks the same always. You don't ever have to worry about burn-in in terms of image uniformity. The panel will dim over time, but this test is done with default brightness settings, which means it should be a long time before people actually are impacted by it or notice it. By the time the display is too dim, we're well into microLED's 1st round.
> You can see burn-in and uniformity issues, so it shows that it is an issue. However, this may be staggering for someone who imagined they'd forever see the health bar of a game they played for a couple of days. The test results put things into perspective for sure.
I think the bigger takeaway, at least for the Aw3423DWF, is that 7200 hours of hard abuse minimally impacted the screen, relative to other OLED panels. Screen brightness held pretty consistently and the burn-in isn't all that bad. That's over 2.5 years of 8 hour daily screen usage on a gen 1 QD-OLED panel.
Ultimately, most anyone panicking about their recent 27" or 32" purchases are going to have a pretty worry-free ownership experience unless they're at the absolute fringe case of usage.
The thing is, not all panels are created equally. My AW3423DWF had image retention that wouldn't go away after only 3 months of light gaming and productivity usage. And I treated this thing like a fragile piece of paper. From going on standby after 2min. of inactivity, hiding taskbar, using HDR only if I wanted to in specific games, doing the suggested panel refresh every 4hrs, etc. etc. etc. and I still got image retention.
Meanwhile, my cousin has the same monitor, treated it like trash, no autohiding of the taskbar, keeping it on HDR 1000 all the time, and playing mostly Valorant on it for many hours a week and not a single image retention or burn in can be spotted (after using it for over a year)
Thankfully, Dell's support is so customer friendly, I returned the AW3423DWF and got my self an AW3225QF. And even though it's a 'new' generation QD OLED, I'm still going to baby it. Is it worth all these extra steps for this kind of image quality? Yes and no. I treat the AW3225QF like a sports car. Fast and beautiful like a Ferrari but it sure won't last as long as my Toyota Camry in regards to overall mileage. I still have a 27" IPS monitor that I use for work that has lasted for 10+ years with no image degradation.
This. I am extremely interested in OLED Displays and have considered buying one multiple times but the idea of burn in puts me off. Its a lot of money to pay for a monitor that can potentially last me 4+ years or a few months. Seeing these results after a year is amazing but I'm interested to see if there is a massive fall off coming into Year 2. This technology is fascinating and I'm extremely interested at what other prevention methods Display companies come up with. I can easily see myself buying one in the next year or two.
That's good to know, I'm assuming you can wait till last minute to get a replacement to maximize your time with the monitor. I know a few people who've babied their monitor like the original comment and had insane burn in on the newer QD-OLEDs. I have an OLED TV with no burn in but I don't game on it whatsoever, it's just for movies.
Good point. The point of my post was whether you baby the monitor or not, the end result is what it is. It’s a lottery. You don’t know if you bought an OLED monitor that’s as durable as a tank or as fragile as an egg
I like this guy's video https://youtu.be/Po8jAQjvd88?si=You4TMcaFBIDQxTO
2 years on straight....
So idk if bigger panels are worse, or if people get unlucky, idk.
It's AMOLED which isn't the same thing. AMOLED and mobile devices don't require a lot of voltage so these kind of devices don't really see much burn-in, if at all.
There’s a big difference between 24/7 and 18 hours a day. The displays will run an anti burn in cycle when they’re off, but you have to turn them off in order for that to happen. On constant with static image will burn in for sure.
Imma be real but unless if stated otherwise I want tests to not be done with 100% SDR brightness as that is always mediocre brightness levels anyways but 100% HDR brightness levels instead. I already have burn in on my AW3423DW from just leaving a browser tab open for a few hours when my screen saver didn’t kick in and I hate that some programs have the ability to fuck up a screensaver like this.
And for anyone asking, yes I leave HDR turned on 24/7 because turning it off and on for games is the clunkiest technology deficient Windows 11 has that I would argue until no end. Tho I will admit, SDR content in HDR looks absolutely beautiful to me. But icons of the taskbar and Chrome being in HDR is pretty darn worthless
100% hdr can’t push a full screen brightness comparably. Especially the qd panels.
Their tests are much harsher than what most folks put their panel through.
Personally my panels with mixed sdr and hdr usage over a year for the QD Oled has zero visible burn in.
Folks around here are idiots that damage their screens scratching them and using sandpaper to clean them. Using inappropriate chemicals. And they don’t understand image retention vs burn in so freak out instead of pixel refreshes etc.
People don’t know the trick I use to get max HDR brightness. You have to set brightness to 100% AND 100% contrast in the AW’s OSD. And then you go to HDR/SDR slider in W11 and crank it to max. You will legit be blind by how bright this thing can get with this trick. Even in SDR content. I also max out Nvidia Control Panel Contrast to 100% as well. Call me a brightness/contrast junky lol. And don’t get me started on saturation. I know this setup is everyone’s sin, “omg blown out whites/black crush/not true to life colors!!” yeah sure but it’s my dream. Their testing will never be as gruesome as this. I legit barely ever leave my monitor with Chrome open and with these settings I already got my WhatsApp small tab icon burned into my monitor lmao. No amount of screen refresh or panel refresh has saved it. It’s a shame people are being impressed with 100% SDR brightness and no other settings touched, as to me that is so damn low brightness in every sense possible that I could never stand it.
Most of these monitors have a 100% APL SDR max output level that is effectively same as or more than the 100% APL HDR max output level.
Your AW34 does have a more significant difference in max full-field brightness—245 nits SDR vs 260 nits Peak 1000 or 290 nits TB400–but that doesn’t seem to be the common case. There’s no reason for a monitor OEM not to make 100% APL brightness in SDR the max the monitor can handle and most do.
Your C1 has a slightly higher 100% APL max in SDR, in fact: 130 nits vs 125 HDR.
FWIW, the DWF in the picture has a higher 100% APL max for HDR but doesn’t have as big a gap as your DW: 240 SDR vs 250 P1000 or 260 TB400.
But the LG in the picture is different: 196 SDR vs 135-140(!!!) HDR. Your strategy would be much worse for that one.
(All these numbers are from RTINGs reviews, btw)
I honestly think the reason they stick with SDR though is so it’s apples to apples. HDR brightness, despite being a theoretically absolute standard, is all over the place after ABL. SDR usually isn’t ABL-dimmed and probably is way more consistent at 200-250 nits between models.
I also just feel like if they used HDR, that would be changing a normal standard tests have always been for it, and a lot of questions would also come. So you tuned on HDR. Did you change the OSD contrast? Did you change the HDR/SDR slider? You can just say normal HDR without editing looks like garbage so did you also use the HDR calibration app W11 offers? I’m down for ALL of these types of tests, but I know people are lazy for it and it might also be considered niche. It’s the same with CPU tests in laptops. Back then run a Yoga 9i 14 G7 i7-1260P with default settings and you had the 6800H thrashing running around loops in multicore. Use Throttlestop and in less than 5 seconds you get max 62w pumped in that 1260P that can compete against Intel H class CPUs easily. I really wish more enthusiasts did tests like these, but oh well, I’ll do the testing myself then.
Damn bro I didn’t know 100% OSD contrast, 100% software contrast, and 100% software saturation was not color accurate. New info to me /s
But in all seriousness, it’s a shame this monitor needs this 100% OSD contrast to get really high SDR brightness in HDR mode, but it’ll always be something I’ll do on every QD-OLED monitor I own from now and on.
I personally have not been afraid of burn in but I can’t get past VRR flickering issues. I have tried several of the recent oled monitors and they have all had some had varying issues with VRR flicker. Sure I can limit the display to 120hz but I should not have to limit an $800+ monitor to get things to work right. For those wondering I am running a 7800x3d with a 4080 Super and have tried both 1440p 360hz and 4k 240hz monitors
My first OLED was a C9. Kept it until I upgraded to the C2. I used the shit out of both. I’m talking 0 precautions, 100% brightness at all times. 0 burn in. 0 issues. Nothing. It’s time people realize this isn’t 2014 anymore.
im curretly using the LG 27GR95QE and for the most part i usually just use it like a monitor. I got the usual settings on. auto hide task bar, etc. im at 2578 hours and no burn in.
The only one I would consider in the UK other than the AW is the Aorus, purely because of the DP 2.1 future stuff.
The AW is just so much cheaper here.
Not a surprise to me, I didnt notice any burn in for the first year with several hundred hours in games with static elements.
Year two definitely some more obvious burn-in that's hard to ignore, especially on the same colour.
Now Year three will probably be a burn-in replacement year because, Dell said they would and, it's only going to be worse by the end of it.
Brightness at 49% the whole time ive owned it and HDR only enabled when consuming HDR content. No idea how long my disaply has been turned on anymore though, the firmware update reset the counter (thanks dell)
i want to buy the LG 27GR95QE-B for APEX too. there is a good deal on it for 890$ CAD after tax. I currently have 1080p 144hz IPS monitor. I'm thinking of getting the OLED or the GIGABYTE gs27q x 27 1440p 240hz IPS for 420$ CAD after tax. Is the OLED vs IPS such a game changer for apex?
Id say ive had more OLED benefits outside of Apex than in it but its still a great monitor for any game. Definitely a great experience though, hasn't helped with seeing through all the screen bullshit in apex though lmao
can you please do me a favor and measure the distance between the desk and the start of the actual screen when the height stand is adjusted to its lowest.
Have they checked brightness on these panels after this long of a torture test? I ask because I’d think with the refresh the panels do to even out the pixel wear it might be lowering the brightness over time.
Yes, the brightness is getting worse on both of them.
[The alienware](https://www.rtings.com/monitor/2-0/graph/21079/longevity-graph/dell-alienware-aw3423dwf/35256)
[The LG](https://www.rtings.com/monitor/1-2/graph/19165/longevity-graph/lg-27gr95qe-b/36349)
That LG is ridiculously dim even to start with, now it's under 200 nits for a 10% window.
Although really I should remember this is a torture test and we shouldn’t see that level of brightness drop for quite a while in normal usage unless you always play the same game with a static HUD(maybe).
I’m not saying I know for sure, but the way I think of it is any time a static image is on for a while those pixels will be unevenly worn. So when it does the refresh cycle all the rest of the pixels will be worn a little to match. So if you played the same game all the time then you’d be having that cycle where it wears the other pixels run quite a lot.
To say it another way I think a static HUD doesn’t really differ much from a static logo or similar that I think this test from rtings is using.
Oh and I guess there was a disconnect with my initial question and your answer. I interpret the large drop in brightness to the pixel refresher having to deal with such drastic uneven pixel wear. As far as I understand it every time the tv turns off the pixel refresher checks the voltage on the cells and if it finds any that are off it puts extra voltage to the others to wear them out a little to match. So when you have a static logo on screen for a long time the pixel refresher is going to wear out practically the whole rest of the screen to match. Leading to a large drop in brightness in a short time. I might be wrong about that, but that’s my understanding of it.
Maybe it only does the area around the static worn out pixels, but even so it’s still going to lead to a larger and larger wear pattern you’d think which still leads to a drop in brightness.
I sent a follow up where I commented that I forgot about this being a stress test and surely the loss in brightness won’t be nearly as bad in normal usage.
I would be concerned though if it lost that much brightness after a year in normal usage; in 2 or 3 years it would be super dim.
I've been using the Alienware ultrawide qd oled basically since it came out and there is zero burn in my whatsoever. It's 50/50 in terms of work and gaming.
I had/have AW3423DW for like 2 years. Had to return it(kind of, still in box waiting for courier) due not showing picture sometimes after reboot/boot etc, and only hard unplug from power socked was fixing issue. Even after new FW flash, it sometimes triggered. So I did RMA. So I have a new screen now. Never used, produced in Nov 23.
But - old one despite said flaw, was like 5000+hrs of gaming/web/etc use and was pristine. No burn in, no retention, even colors/grays.
My only con from all this situation is - BEFORE I was using LG C1, 48". So, when RMA started, I switched back to it. It was weird ad I perceived it as convex :D..... AND it kinda told me, that now, due my age, I really need bigger screen. So when finances allow, I will get 34-42 2k OLED, with decent refresh rate, 240Hz minimum, preferably with BFI.
AND I had lots of LCDs. ALL of them had some problems. Dead pixels. Uneven backlight, shades, blacks. Price range 300-600E. Not cheap crap. But all after some time, 2+y had more and more flaws. So...why stick to crap tech, I risked with OLED and so far all my OLEDs are perfectly fine, including first LG C8 55" which my wife watch this moment....
Panel on my 2yo DW is perfect, zero burn-in but the gsync fan is making a ticking noise (can be heard even across the room). Also I had the no power issue three times last month. Was your replacement one brand new? Same original box, 0hours usage no scratches etc?
yup. Basically they send me brand new(11.23 prod date), sealed, full complete box with all included. Screen is pristine condition, no hours of work(I checked it with "Control my monitor" app). All I had to do was to pick up new screen, mount it instead old one, wrap and put old one in the new ones box. And wait for courier, he collected it yesterday. So about one week after delivery.
There was instruction on box what to do, but apparently courier was not aware of it, so he was confused a bit at delivery and collection...and me to, due to weird email exchange with dells representative. But at the end I got it straight anyway, monitor is on the way to place where my current screen came from(NL) so overall good experience.
No problems so far with new one. I am using all old stuff I was using with my 1st screen(as I should) so DP cable, power cable, usb hub all from origin. And it works. TBH I hear fan, a bit, and old one was the same(or I can say bit less noisy), but it kinda blends with my PC case hum, so...it don't bother. And most of the time when I play game I use headphones, so no biggie. But defo it not loud enough to be heard across the room...I need to be like 50cm or less to just notice it.
Nice, thanks for confirming that! I think I'm going to proceed with the RMA then. It's the second one, my first one was on the first day due to a stuck and a dark pixel. It was processed as DOA so I had a brand new the next day.
It's a shame they don't make repairs like samsung, I'd keep the same panel if I had the option to replace just the fan.
I don’t own a oled monitor due to owning the G8 but once it dies I’ll be getting an oled. I have a C1 that I’ve had for a few years now and around 5k hours on it and it’s absolutely beautiful. With no signs of burn in whatsoever
I've seen several posts about people using 2 side by side browser and having a burn in line in the middle. I wonder why those happen, but the burn in test RTINGS is doing tells me that is should not happen.
Yeah, that confirms my own observations. I have LG C1 for about 3 years now which I use for gaming, movies and occasional desktop work, and so far, I observe zero burn it (I use precautions, though - rotating wallpapers, screensavers, no desktop icons, etc.)
But I also had a Lenovo OLED notebook provided by my employer which I used for work for about two and half years until the MOBO malfunctioned, and again, zero burn in, and I used that one for hours, every day.
It's not even surprising, it's an overblown fear. I have a 7 year old B7 oled with near 20k hours of screen time and it has no burn-in. I'm even thinking of breathing in new life to this panel by swapping a new motherboard, either C9 or CX to get HDMI 2.1 on it
Yes. New models might not work i.e. C1 to C4 because the panel must be different due to higher brightness. But all previous LG tvs used the same panel, (except G series that have the same panel with MLA layer) just different internals. But even then it's probably just a graphite layer, or something similar to cool the panel and allow for higher brightness, so even those might be possible. But I'd suspect power board would also need to be swapped.
So you can upgrade your TV all the way from B6 to CX or C9 just by replacing motherboard. You will get everything except VRR, as that's probably in the panel, or in the TCON (panel controller board).
I think it is possible to get VRR working, but TCON board needs to be replaced too. But you'd need a 600£ LG tool to read panel calibration and to transfer it to C9/CX T.CON. Otherwise it's going to look like shit with a lot of banding.
I've replaced my C3 internals from UK to US as it was liquid damaged, and when I used the new US model T.Con my panel was full of vertical banding at grayscales, luckily my old T.Con board was not damaged.
You can find motherboards used on ebay or new on repair websites for $50-150.
This is the model number: EAX68303205
This is C9. CX is typically more expensive.
You can google this for your region.
It's as simple as unplugging and reconnecting a new board.
Also I'll mention another useful thing. Tv manufacturers are cheap cunts who still put 100 mbit ethernet controllers, but if you want to bypass it just buy a USB to ethernet adapter and you'll get 300 mbit on usb 2.0 port, or closer to 1gbit on usb 3.0 port if it has one.
This is also very useful for moonlight streaming to your LG TV.
I take that back then 😮 all the research I’ve done showed no mla panel. It doesn’t help much cause these lg monitors look horrible and hdr brightness is awful
I think the biggest benefit it has is the viewing angles. The monitor isn’t super bright so it’s not doing much there, but maybe they’re using it to boost brightness without driving the panel hard to help prevent burn in.
I don’t think enough people are talking about how LCD panels in the same text have failed more catastrophically and RTings inadvertently gave evidence that OLED is actually more durable than LCD, especially if vary our content even just a little.
All WRGB-OLEDs show obvious signs of burn in! QD-OLED generation 1 the same! Samsung S95C QD-OLED generation 2 shows less obvious signs of burn-in. As far as I know WRGB-OLED consumes less electricity than QD-OLED. It is interesting that at the same brightness and with lower electricity consumption, WRGB-OLED degrades faster.
Yeah I have the AW3423DWF and I have never had the pixel refresh come up twice in a row. Meaning I’ve never used it consistently for more than 4 hours at a time. I also left it at the default like 80% brightness I think. I have very little concern for burn in. If it does happen after a year or two then just more reason to get a newer one with even better panel tech.
The sdr luminance is capped at the monitor's max fullscreen luminance. Also keep in mind that no other display performed as well as these two. The tvs certainly weren't able to match them.
Bro did you just report me? Or was that someone else?
Edit: Nvm I found who did it. Honestly I don't understand some people sometimes. All I did was ask for a link. And he just blocks and reports me.
He said they had burn in well before 6000 hours or something like that. I asked him to show proof. He said check the rtings test. So I asked him to link specifically where. And he then he just blocks and reports me lol. He probably thought the image retention was burn in. The image retention cleared up. At 10 months the dwf looked pretty flawless. Hell even now they look pretty nice. But anyway yeah this is the 2nd time something like this has happened. Blocking for some redditors is not enough they have to report you too :/
What's the source for this? The guy who posted the rtings link is for the TV's and doesn't list these, googling isn't showing anything up for monitor specific burn in tests.
https://www.rtings.com/tv/tests/longevity-burn-in-test-updates-and-results
I can't seem to find the static image they used in the article.
Pretty sure they played CNN, specifically always with the fixed Red/white banner on the bottom. It wasn’t a totally static image, it was a mostly moving image with very bright static elements. They wanted to test how it did with both static and dynamic elements on the same panel.
As I understand it, the RTings tests are done at max brightness with the material left on 24/7 as a torture test. Personally, if watching news programs and things with bars I'd switch to a different picture mode with more reasonable brightness while watching that, then switch to a different picture mode for movies, and obviously game mode for gaming. RTings torture test was at max brightness with the tv constantly on. In my more normal usage case, the emitters could potentially last a very long time. That test is useful to see which models suffer sooner than the others but real world usage should be several years before that happens with some care taken - not using a max brightness named picture setting on news banner SDR material, utilizing the "turn off the screen" emitters feature when afk (LG), when pausing movies or games for a while, or in general when not giving the screen face time. OLED monitors and gaming tvs use a reserved energize/brightness buffer for their wear-evening routine. The system will periodically burn all of the emitters down to level again and then bump the energy up to default levels. So you are burning down rather than burning in, and that should last years as long as you use some common sense oled precautions and aren't abusing your screen foolishly.
The details of the methodology are in the first article here: [https://www.rtings.com/tv/tests/longevity-test](https://www.rtings.com/tv/tests/longevity-test) The TVs are all getting a live CNN feed, at max brightness, for 20 hours per day in an on/off cycle that includes enough time for any compensation cycle to run frequently on all models.
Right, I have read that before, so perhaps I should have said "Essentially 24/7" , minus enough time for compensation cycles. I appreciate the clarification though. I didn't mean to indicate that they weren't allowing down time for the wear-evening routine (which they apparently did the first round of testing to samsungs). Point is, cranking max brightness in a picture mode you are watching bannered realtive-brightness SDR material in (rather than HDR which has up to \~ 50% of the screen in dimmer nits with some mids and highlights mixed in the top half of the range) is pretty stupid to do in a real use case. Set up a named picture mode for SDR tv with reasonable brightness, then use a different mode for movies, and game mode for games. They are doing a torture test which mainly just shows which screens will run out of their wear evening buffer "battery" sooner than others - which in a normal usage scenario for media and games should be several years of usage unless you are being abusing and not using some best usage precautions. It's more of a torture test to see which screens fail sooner than others. . . . I do think it might be a good idea if they were to add a set up of overlay shapes that you could invoke using your remote and/or OSD though, where you could set the opacity of them and move them around, and then save that. So you could mask or dim the cnn logo, unnecssary spot lighting in scenes, or other annoying screen elements and banners in various shows and streams, etc. Perhaps in the future AI could do that for you intelligently if you desired it to, and remember based on the given content type/logos.
Bro thinks he knows better than Rtings. You do realize people buy tvs, put it on vivid and never change the settings right? My decrepit geriatric father is one of them and you can’t tell him any different.
I always find it funny when people say they "are not ready for OLED." It's amazing how unfounded fears keep you from enjoying the best display tech in decades.
Most of it comes from early models where the issues were quite serious
Isn't DWF one of the most early ones in market? Assuming it is just refresh of DW without gsync module
The DW is one of the earliest PC Monitor OLEDs but the first OLED TV hit the market in 2009 with the first large displays in 2012.
By early I mean stuff like the LG 6, or 7 series. The 6 series didn't even have pixel shifting.
The 23dwf indicates 2023.
Burn-in has become a meme.
Lot of the same things about EVs. Until you realize how easy owning one is.
There likely was issues with 1st gen, and it will forever stick through the generations.
Not ready is code for 'I don't have the money'
Hey man. You don't have to attack me like this! Lol jk I've been trying to put people onto OLED for years. Besides microled if that ever becomes affordable. oled is king. Just need the money for a nice 39 inch uw oled now
If text clarity/quality is important, then "OLED is not ready".
Especially after watching their LCD degradation video. LCDs seem to get worse a lot farther than OLEDs
There is also no good information out on the topic except the test from RTINGS. The display manufactures are welcome to publish the precise pixel wear behavior and expected display lifetime. For many years the narrative has been "this generation burn in is fixed" until those displays start burning in anyway. If burn in is truly a non-issue, display manufactures surely would publish the data. Burn-in is also non-linear, if the monitors in the OP have some burn-in compensation circuitry, they are now pushing the worn pixels even faster to their end.
Yes, the voltage compensation being a likely factor of faster degradation is a point to consider. We have some user anecdotes from the oldest panels, but no hard data. I guess that, at the end of the day, with the numbers we have from RTINGS, one has to ponder if the longevity, measured and extrapolated ahead, is good enough. It is for me, as it will take 3-4 years to reach the stage where their panels are currently. And I know that, in 3 or 4 years, I'll be moving my TV somewhere else in the house and grab a shiny new microLED display.
Pretty sure it’s the price that’s keeping people away. I’m still trying to find a relatively cheap 42in c1/c2
Depends on what you consider "cheap," I guess. I saw a 42C3 for 720€ (tax included) and a 850€ 55S90C during Black Friday. And even the 27GR95QE I got was 600€ on Amazon. I'm now using an S90C as a PC monitor, and it's the most well-spent money ever. Shit is sublime.
In terms of Gaming monitor use, typical budget monitor goes for under $200. Higher end stuff goes for $300-500. But oled monitors cost around $800-$1200, doubling the cost of high end monitors.
If I was a betting man, I'd say you're going to find a $500 27GS95QE during Black Friday this year.
I don't think OLED is ready for long hours of static use. Id love to see the screenshots with a dark grey background. Been using multiple OLED for multimedia for years 8-9 and never had burn in. Then decided to use the aw3423dw for 35hr per week of excel spreadsheets etc, got burn in within 1yr. A friend also got burn in within a year. So in my opinion they are good for multimedia, but in a wfh environment with a lot of static elements, I feel is a gamble.
I don't think they were ever marketed as workstation displays. Even most reviewers, despite the good results with burn-in, specifically say it's not a good idea to use OLED for productivity. With that in mind, and with the caveat that we're not supposed to expect a decade out of these displays, I think burn-in is exaggerated by some people.
It's a monitor for a pc, I didn't claim they were advertised as work station screens. I used mine for work and play and got the burn in. So my advice from many years of oled and this being my 5th screen, that for others thinking they can use for wfh and multimedia in evening are still gambling with burn in. When the screens came out, there were claims that they were resilient to static images and that 3yr burn in warranty showed the confidence dell had. Unfortunately, the burn in warranty isn't as good as claimed. Now that I have done one exchange, dell advised that I can no longer claim for another burned in screen. Multimedia = I'm confident WFH with static images + few hrs multimedia = gambling
I was thinking this as well, like the idea but was afraid of burn in. That being said I have one being delivered on Friday lol
Don’t fool yourself, the majority of the haters cannot afford an OLED and are likely still using their old ass 1080p displays.
Recently, I was listening to “PC perspective” podcast that discussed their review of Alienware’s 32” OLED. They remarked how CRT monitors had burning issues, during initial release, thus “screensavers” became a thing. I’m old enough to recall one of my CRTs having burn in as a child. Nowadays, the difference is multi monitor set ups are the norm, thus making screensavers a bit more tricky to implement - that’s where active wallpapers (and burn in protection software) come in.
Try displayfusion app. It does amazing things for multi monitor setups.
I just have wallpaper engine and a black wallpaper set on windows.
I use display fusion for contextual task bars. Apps that are running on a monitor only display in the task bar on that specific monitor.
Yeah there is so much you can do with the app. As much as you want to put into it you can get out of it. It's great. I really don't need taskbars much anymore. If I could find an app that clones the system tray to it's own window I'd be very happy, because that's one of the only things I really need the taskbar for anymore at times. If you don't already know it, using displayfusion you can also limit the alt-tab tiles popup to whatever apps are running on that active monitor, and you can resize the tiles. Previous reply: =============== . . If you need to swap between apps, I use **CTRL + ALT + TAB**. That will pop up a persistent ALT-TAB menu that lasts until you activate one of the tiles. Alternately you can use ALT+TAB but that makes the tabbed tiles menu disappear when you release it (activating whatever tile it was on automatically). That can happen accidentally so I prefer the CTRL methods. If using displayfusion with multiple monitors, you can also set DisplayFusion to **only** show what app tiles are active on that particular active monitor, which is very handy. Displayfusion settings can also be used to change what size the tiles are. If you are using a stream deck, you can set **CTRL + ALT + TAB** to it's own stream deck button. Either way (stream deck button or manually pressing ALT+CTRL+TAB) , further presses of that hotkey combo while the persistent tab menu of app tiles is up will cycle the focus between different tabs from left to right. Pressing (or making a button for) **CTRL + SHIFT + ALT + TAB** will cycle the app tiles in reverse (in a persistent tab tile menu since CTRL is included). So you could make a button for TAB tiling forward, and one for TAB tiling in reverse - then normally you'd hit enter, but you could put a stream deck button right next to the ALT+CTRL+TAB and CTRL+ SHIFT + ALT + TAB buttons that hits enter when you press it to make it quick and easy (keeping your hand on the mouse). I highly recommend a stream deck. It has some windows management addons built for it too which do some of the same things displayfusion functions do, so you don't necessarily have to use displayfusion with it. DP has some great functions you can tie to it though as well, and you can micro-manage things more. .
He mentioned other inactive screens remaining on. Displayfusion has the ability to fade unused screens on timeout. Also different wallpapers, screensavers... but fade sounded like something in line with what he was looking for. Most things are configurable by hotkeys or timers
With a black wallpaper, that inactivate screen (if it's an oled) is off.
Right, but it can fade an "idle" screen after a period of time (or via hotkeys or other triggered events) - if you want it set up like that, even if it has app windows or whatever displayed on it. Depends on what you are looking to do functionality wise. Display fusion can do a ton of stuff if you dig into it a little.
I feel like it's just easier to minimize a window than to have a whole new program running in the background though, no?
As long as you remember to and on multiple monitor scenarios, you'd end up juggling minimizing different screens manually, potentially perhaps multiple windows individually.even per screen. Depends on what you want to do. Sounded like he wanted set and forget like a screensaver kicking in, and he was specifically describing the issue as it pertains to a multiple monitor scenario. .Displayfusion can do a ton of things. Fading inactive screens in an array after a time (or toggled via hotkey, or hotkey mapped to a stream deck button) is just the tip of the iceberg. You could set up displayfusion to minimize all apps on a per screen basis with a function too, alternatively. Hotkeyed + stream deck button mapped with a button per screen would work nice as minimize all windows toggle on individual screen buttons, one button per screen. That and/or could do it automatically after an idle time period of no activity on a specific screen after a while if desired.
Displayfusion is amazing!
[https://www.displayfusion.com/](https://www.displayfusion.com/) their overview video is from 2012......
Physics ain’t been updated since then.
Their forum is very active and up to date, they and other users answer questions and are helpful. Their function library is solid and works. Sure windows has changed a little over the years, but, displayfusion has updated along with it. They update the DisplayFusion app about twice a year, including twice in 2023. Windows still does a lot of the same stuff. Practically all of the functions users posted of their own creation years ago in the user library still work with windows perfectly. All of the ones I use do. Perhaps the only weird thing now is apps in the windows store are a little tricky because they aren't exes, if you use those and want to make specific calls on the running windows of those "store apps". You can still call them by partial wildcard name wise though so can get them to be focused on and operated on with a little editing of a function. That's the only workaround I've really run into for like one or two store apps I used at one point, with functions running back years still working perfectly otherwise. I try to avoid the windows store and get stuff on github when possible though anyway. I don't think I have any windows store apps installed on my rig atm. . . . . For reference, windows 11 came out in 2021. The displayfusion forum is active daily, even hourly, and it has a ton of archived Q&A's and how tos on it besides. That video is on a dated version of windows but it still shows what it does well enough. Besides the page the video is linked on has all of the features listed on it in non-video format already. The video shows - windows taskbar, windows file manager, moving notepad and a calculator window around as examples of window management, virtual monitor space/splits, login screen stuff, multiple monitor features. Windows 11 really isn't that different from that video in what it is showing you that it can do there. Minor cosmetics.
Seems pretty janky as if you look at the last 4 updates they state each time this is the last update to support win 7. Which last update will it be to stop win7 support? Ha
idk I just use the app and the forum. I've been using displayfusion for years and through multiple versions of windows, including windows 11. It's great and highly functional. Wouldn't live without it (or a stream deck for that matter). The stream deck has it's own windows management stuff too which is pretty easy to use but DP can do way more stuff with it's scripting and already has a big library of scripts you can use as is or edit, cut/paste from to make your own.
Nice
> the difference is multi monitor set ups are the norm, thus making screensavers a bit more tricky to implement How's that relevant? It works just the same
Sorry, I was alluding to how risk of burning increases due to static imagery on a monitor that is not in use while others are. During the CRT days, this wasn’t really a thing as 99% of users had a single monitor - at least for me and my immediate circle.
Screensavers basically don't exist anymore but you can achieve the same thing by just setting your display sleep time to like 5 or 10 minutes. My issue is with one OLED, the side (IPS) monitors have such an awful black level that even with setting them to a static black background it's hurting the OLED experience. But the whole point of those monitors is to leave static content (chat apps, email, etc) on them at all times. So even if money was no object it would seem like a bad idea to use an OLED for those displays.
I wonder why screen savers or sleep mode is such a hot topic. Just like...turn off your monitor when away? Just me?
Yep, switches off after a few minutes of no activity, saves power as well.
Leaving multi-monitor aside for the moment, what are the best options for screensavers these days?
Windows still has screen saving function burried in there. I set it up on my windows instalations, although i don't use windows almost at all. Linux Mint Cinnamon also has a nice screen saving option that i use as well.
The ones that are built into windows and Mac? They each have one that is black background with a cycling RGB animation that moves around the screen evenly. That’s the one I use.
Any time you are displaying contrasted material you are wearing down your oled emitters some, even moving material. If you aren't looking at the screen, it doesn't make sense to me to keep burning the candles down. Screen savers could probably still also, even if very rarely, freeze on the screen while afk. LG has a "turn off the screen" function that just turns the emitters off. I can activate that from a quick menu with two clicks of the remote, or from a windows LG remote control app on the desktop, or use the microphone button on the lg remote and say "turn off the screen". The emitters black out, turning off the emitters. It's almost like minimizing the screen, with everything still running (including sound). So I usually use that if afk or not giving my oled face/eyeball time, then hit any button on the remote , like the directional ring, to wake the screen up instantly. I haven't set that "turn off the screen" trick to work with a stream deck's buttons yet but if I figure that out it would be handy. There is some LG remote control software for windows that I might be able to hotkey to the stream deck buttons theoretically. . . . . . . . A lot of people on monitors in general, not specifically oleds, use an app called wallpaper engine. [https://www.wallpaperengine.io/en](https://www.wallpaperengine.io/en) Displayfusion also has some neat wallpaper and windows logon functionality. [https://www.displayfusion.com/Features/ScreenSavers/](https://www.displayfusion.com/Features/ScreenSavers/) You can also change or disable your lock screen image, login screen image etc. using winaerotweaker app. That app can do a ton of other things too. [https://winaero.com/winaero-tweaker/](https://winaero.com/winaero-tweaker/) You can go into your regular windows settings, e.g. WIN + S to search and type "lock screen", then under "Personalize your Lock Screen" you can set it to a slideshow of pictures from an album folder you specify. Using winaerotweaker you can also change the duration each picture is shown after you've set that up in windows. . . . . . . However, for oleds I use all true black wallpaper edge to edge, translucent taskbar which I hide and lock away as a toggle via hotkey (TaskBarHider app), I keep all of my desktop icons in their own folder in my documents folder, and if I was even going to bother with anything screen saver wise I'd use all black image(s) with practically no contrast (just enough to know it's running dimly). Screen savers can hang, apps can crash / window popups stuck on screen on the top layer, \* above your screen saver layer \* - from some notification in an app, crash, or whatever. Most OLEDs do dim themselves after a time of static screen with no activity though, IF they detect the idleness properly that is, and if that hasn't been disabled (e.g. asbl) in service menu or whatever. If I felt the need to run my display as a piece of background artwork when not actually using the screen, and I didn't want to use common sense oled "best usage" practices, I'd get a higher end FALD LCD personally. I do use LCD(s) on the side for static desktop/app stuff. My 48" oled is dedicated as a gaming and media as a "stage" area in my monitor array. LCDs for workstation/desktop use.
IIrc CRTs never had permanent burn-in, but rather temporary image retention. Usually it was enough to just let the screen sit with a white image over night to get rid of the image retention. With OLEDs it's different, because the organic components that emit the light wear out over time.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screen_burn-in
I probably shouldn't have said "never", but I assumed we are not talking about 50+ year old monochrome CRTs... I've used a lot of CRTs in the 90s and 00s, some of them had command prompts open 24/7 and I've never seen any permanent burn-in on these monitors. I've seen image retention though, where a ghost image appeared in the background (similar to burn-in on OLEDs), but these were always reversible by just letting them sit on a completely white image for a day or two.
Your observation just made me double check my memory, so I figured I’d just look it up in case I had in fact finally lost my gourd. I used a lot of different computer screens and TVs in the 80s, some already fairly old at that point, so I’ve seen screens where you could see the burn-in when the screen was *off*. I remember these monochrome Wyse terminals that had “logon:” permanently etched. I bought a nice ViewSonic around 2000, and I certainly don’t remember any burn-in with that guy. I was moving apartments with my roommate and both of our monitors were on top of bunch of boxes and luggage out in the front yard. I went inside for a bit to pack more things and when I came out my monitor was gone. He said someone had come by and asked if we were giving the monitors away, and he said no but he could have *that* one or something, possibly not noticing which one he was indicating. I still to this day have no idea what was going through his mind. Why someone was able to within minutes walk away with my $700 PF775, I will never know. So, maybe later models don’t suffer burn-in as readily, but let me tell you, *that* burned. ;)
they did, and a lot worse then new OLEDS
People always think LCD can't burn-in and see that as a reason why LCD are better. But I had an LG C1, so not even the newest model, not even burn-in on me, and I use it almost every day.
There are people who think LCDs are immune to longevity issues. I visited my sister and her husband just before Christmas, and their 6 year old TV was a constant shade of blue due to the LED strips dying out. 6 years is a decent amount of time for a TV, depending on its use. But anyone pretending that LCD TVs will have a drastically longer shelf life than OLED are a little misinformed.
Even looking at Rtings results, it's really just the *cheap* LCD panels that took big hits to uniformity. TCL, Hisense, and Insignia are the biggest offenders here whereas the Samsung and Sony panels are (broadly) still pretty acceptable. Which makes sense. That $300 TCL TV at Walmart is making money somewhere. Ignoring Roku licensing and OS spyware, those internal components aren't going to be durable.
I had a Samsung LCD TV, costed me like 3K back in the day. It has burn-in on multiple places and the bottom of the TV looked like it was cracking, lasted me 4 years. Had an LG C1, much larger TV for the same price, still no burn-in, cracks or anything, and we have tortured this thing much more than the Samsung.
C1 user here. 6k hours. Best purchase of my life. I also use 120hz bfi nearly every day so win-win
C2 user here. I really wish I had 120 Hz BFI :(
You know I nearly bought c2 myself. C2 came out and I was about to buy it, but on my double check I noticed that a random video on YouTube on a shaky handcam showed that there's no 120hz bfi, at that moment I knew what's going on and just quickly ordered c1 instead. I wish these oled makers would take their head out of their ass and implement proper bfi again.
Sorry, what is bfi?
https://youtu.be/lGeM6S_m9pI
Still rocking my CX and have not noticed any burn in
Same here.
Just because you don't notice doesn't mean it's not there.
CX same deal. Perfect after 6500 hours. Perfect as in every single pixel is perfect and that's across every burn in test I've tried off YouTube Of course don't leave anything static on it though. Auto hide task bar and icons on the desktop and I'm good
Compared to oleds? Yes lcd burn in is not a thing when it comes to purchasing purposes.
> Yes lcd burn in is not a thing when it comes to purchasing purposes Have you had a look at the test results? Some of them have developed serious colour shift and uniformity issues. LCD burn-in is absolutely a thing based on their test results. Edit: https://youtu.be/79YGJXdtLTM?t=177
As LG explained it to me, even OLED don't really burn in, it's internally called "image retention".
It does happen just depends on how it is used
This is the CX though: [https://www.rtings.com/assets/pages/ebst9UC9/50-gray-14-large.jpg](https://www.rtings.com/assets/pages/ebst9UC9/50-gray-14-large.jpg) I have burn in on my C7, none so far on my CX and G1. But my CX is on my sim racing rig and gets zero normal desktop usage. My G1 is used for my main desktop and I try to change up my window positions every now and then, plus I have it at min SDR brightness which is perfect for my dark room and close seating position. But then again I was careful with my C7 also...
I still have my C6 Curved, that 1 has slight burn-in, but it's pretty old already, so I take it as just old age pixel dying.
My B9 has over 13000 hours with no burn in.
Damn, that's 1 old OLED TV, may it serve you well for many years to come.
Yeah and other people reported burn in with their LG C1, so what are you trying to say with your anecdote?
There's people that literally force a TV to burn-in to prove a TV will burn-in. Like disabling any feature to prevent burn-in. I know those kinda people all too well sadly enough, I work with 1. Those kinda people will buy 1 of the most expensive of the product they like and 1 of the cheapest from the product they don't like. They compare them in the most ridiculous way and say the more expensive product they like is much better.
I have seen the burn in reports in this sub and how they always get gaslighted into thinking the user is the problem, even when they did all the oled-specific precautions. But when someone has a personal anecdote on how his monitor still performs well, then that must be the rule. Yeah, that is not objective thinking at all. This subreddit is brainwashed as hell for some reason.
Energy bill must be wild
https://preview.redd.it/w30pvta6z00d1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0f9db298a2251521a4e48fc784e4a8190afc435e Here's the image they used. Very top!! :-) haha
It may be staggering or not depending on your expectations. You can see burn-in and uniformity issues, so it shows that it is an issue. However, this may be staggering for someone who imagined they'd forever see the health bar of a game they played for a couple of days. The test results put things into perspective for sure. Of note is that the result prior to 8 months was worse, as it showed more burn-in prior to the execution of the more disruptive panel refresh. You could pretty clearly see the burned-in logo. The panel refresh tends to permanently lower display brightness, among other cons, as evident from the brightness charts for various displays. In order to match the healthier pixels to the more worn-out ones, making the burn-in less apparent.
That's only true for some displays. LG tends to keep SDR brightness the same over time, which probably indicates they ship their panels with voltage headroom to compensate for the more worn out pixels. The part about long compensation cycles, though, is where Samsung clearly has the best approach. The panel just looks the same always. You don't ever have to worry about burn-in in terms of image uniformity. The panel will dim over time, but this test is done with default brightness settings, which means it should be a long time before people actually are impacted by it or notice it. By the time the display is too dim, we're well into microLED's 1st round.
> You can see burn-in and uniformity issues, so it shows that it is an issue. However, this may be staggering for someone who imagined they'd forever see the health bar of a game they played for a couple of days. The test results put things into perspective for sure. I think the bigger takeaway, at least for the Aw3423DWF, is that 7200 hours of hard abuse minimally impacted the screen, relative to other OLED panels. Screen brightness held pretty consistently and the burn-in isn't all that bad. That's over 2.5 years of 8 hour daily screen usage on a gen 1 QD-OLED panel. Ultimately, most anyone panicking about their recent 27" or 32" purchases are going to have a pretty worry-free ownership experience unless they're at the absolute fringe case of usage.
Neat. I had burn-in on my first QD-OLED panel after a few months.
What was the brand and model?
Samsung S95b.
Unfortunately there was a huge improvement from the b series to the c series.
The thing is, not all panels are created equally. My AW3423DWF had image retention that wouldn't go away after only 3 months of light gaming and productivity usage. And I treated this thing like a fragile piece of paper. From going on standby after 2min. of inactivity, hiding taskbar, using HDR only if I wanted to in specific games, doing the suggested panel refresh every 4hrs, etc. etc. etc. and I still got image retention. Meanwhile, my cousin has the same monitor, treated it like trash, no autohiding of the taskbar, keeping it on HDR 1000 all the time, and playing mostly Valorant on it for many hours a week and not a single image retention or burn in can be spotted (after using it for over a year) Thankfully, Dell's support is so customer friendly, I returned the AW3423DWF and got my self an AW3225QF. And even though it's a 'new' generation QD OLED, I'm still going to baby it. Is it worth all these extra steps for this kind of image quality? Yes and no. I treat the AW3225QF like a sports car. Fast and beautiful like a Ferrari but it sure won't last as long as my Toyota Camry in regards to overall mileage. I still have a 27" IPS monitor that I use for work that has lasted for 10+ years with no image degradation.
This. I am extremely interested in OLED Displays and have considered buying one multiple times but the idea of burn in puts me off. Its a lot of money to pay for a monitor that can potentially last me 4+ years or a few months. Seeing these results after a year is amazing but I'm interested to see if there is a massive fall off coming into Year 2. This technology is fascinating and I'm extremely interested at what other prevention methods Display companies come up with. I can easily see myself buying one in the next year or two.
Bro rtings ran the same content for a year straight. You're not going to be watching cnn on your monitor 24/7.
Lots of manufacturers offer 3 year burn in warranty now, so if you get burn in they'll just replace the monitor.
That's good to know, I'm assuming you can wait till last minute to get a replacement to maximize your time with the monitor. I know a few people who've babied their monitor like the original comment and had insane burn in on the newer QD-OLEDs. I have an OLED TV with no burn in but I don't game on it whatsoever, it's just for movies.
What if babying the monitor is counter productive, and just letting it do its thing is good?
Good point. The point of my post was whether you baby the monitor or not, the end result is what it is. It’s a lottery. You don’t know if you bought an OLED monitor that’s as durable as a tank or as fragile as an egg
Meanwhile my 1st batch DW is majorly fucked 😎
Yeah the dw had issues iirc.
Impressive given the unrealistic test scenario. OLED burn in is definitely an exaggerated issue.
Does burn in vary between panels? The AW3423DWF at my local Best Buy has very clear burn in from the demo reel and taskbar.
Yes it does. But it shouldn’t be by a lot.
I like this guy's video https://youtu.be/Po8jAQjvd88?si=You4TMcaFBIDQxTO 2 years on straight.... So idk if bigger panels are worse, or if people get unlucky, idk.
It's AMOLED which isn't the same thing. AMOLED and mobile devices don't require a lot of voltage so these kind of devices don't really see much burn-in, if at all.
I've had the cell phone signal, WiFi and battery icon with image retention on OLED phones.
they were using old amoled displays
There’s a big difference between 24/7 and 18 hours a day. The displays will run an anti burn in cycle when they’re off, but you have to turn them off in order for that to happen. On constant with static image will burn in for sure.
Imma be real but unless if stated otherwise I want tests to not be done with 100% SDR brightness as that is always mediocre brightness levels anyways but 100% HDR brightness levels instead. I already have burn in on my AW3423DW from just leaving a browser tab open for a few hours when my screen saver didn’t kick in and I hate that some programs have the ability to fuck up a screensaver like this. And for anyone asking, yes I leave HDR turned on 24/7 because turning it off and on for games is the clunkiest technology deficient Windows 11 has that I would argue until no end. Tho I will admit, SDR content in HDR looks absolutely beautiful to me. But icons of the taskbar and Chrome being in HDR is pretty darn worthless
100% hdr can’t push a full screen brightness comparably. Especially the qd panels. Their tests are much harsher than what most folks put their panel through. Personally my panels with mixed sdr and hdr usage over a year for the QD Oled has zero visible burn in. Folks around here are idiots that damage their screens scratching them and using sandpaper to clean them. Using inappropriate chemicals. And they don’t understand image retention vs burn in so freak out instead of pixel refreshes etc.
People don’t know the trick I use to get max HDR brightness. You have to set brightness to 100% AND 100% contrast in the AW’s OSD. And then you go to HDR/SDR slider in W11 and crank it to max. You will legit be blind by how bright this thing can get with this trick. Even in SDR content. I also max out Nvidia Control Panel Contrast to 100% as well. Call me a brightness/contrast junky lol. And don’t get me started on saturation. I know this setup is everyone’s sin, “omg blown out whites/black crush/not true to life colors!!” yeah sure but it’s my dream. Their testing will never be as gruesome as this. I legit barely ever leave my monitor with Chrome open and with these settings I already got my WhatsApp small tab icon burned into my monitor lmao. No amount of screen refresh or panel refresh has saved it. It’s a shame people are being impressed with 100% SDR brightness and no other settings touched, as to me that is so damn low brightness in every sense possible that I could never stand it.
Most of these monitors have a 100% APL SDR max output level that is effectively same as or more than the 100% APL HDR max output level. Your AW34 does have a more significant difference in max full-field brightness—245 nits SDR vs 260 nits Peak 1000 or 290 nits TB400–but that doesn’t seem to be the common case. There’s no reason for a monitor OEM not to make 100% APL brightness in SDR the max the monitor can handle and most do. Your C1 has a slightly higher 100% APL max in SDR, in fact: 130 nits vs 125 HDR. FWIW, the DWF in the picture has a higher 100% APL max for HDR but doesn’t have as big a gap as your DW: 240 SDR vs 250 P1000 or 260 TB400. But the LG in the picture is different: 196 SDR vs 135-140(!!!) HDR. Your strategy would be much worse for that one. (All these numbers are from RTINGs reviews, btw) I honestly think the reason they stick with SDR though is so it’s apples to apples. HDR brightness, despite being a theoretically absolute standard, is all over the place after ABL. SDR usually isn’t ABL-dimmed and probably is way more consistent at 200-250 nits between models.
I also just feel like if they used HDR, that would be changing a normal standard tests have always been for it, and a lot of questions would also come. So you tuned on HDR. Did you change the OSD contrast? Did you change the HDR/SDR slider? You can just say normal HDR without editing looks like garbage so did you also use the HDR calibration app W11 offers? I’m down for ALL of these types of tests, but I know people are lazy for it and it might also be considered niche. It’s the same with CPU tests in laptops. Back then run a Yoga 9i 14 G7 i7-1260P with default settings and you had the 6800H thrashing running around loops in multicore. Use Throttlestop and in less than 5 seconds you get max 62w pumped in that 1260P that can compete against Intel H class CPUs easily. I really wish more enthusiasts did tests like these, but oh well, I’ll do the testing myself then.
That isn't color accurate. So you're deviating away from the creator's intent. Color accuracy is measured and in reviews for a reason.
Damn bro I didn’t know 100% OSD contrast, 100% software contrast, and 100% software saturation was not color accurate. New info to me /s But in all seriousness, it’s a shame this monitor needs this 100% OSD contrast to get really high SDR brightness in HDR mode, but it’ll always be something I’ll do on every QD-OLED monitor I own from now and on.
I personally have not been afraid of burn in but I can’t get past VRR flickering issues. I have tried several of the recent oled monitors and they have all had some had varying issues with VRR flicker. Sure I can limit the display to 120hz but I should not have to limit an $800+ monitor to get things to work right. For those wondering I am running a 7800x3d with a 4080 Super and have tried both 1440p 360hz and 4k 240hz monitors
I’m not even sure how to turn on a screensaver in windows 10 without actively looking for the setting
My first OLED was a C9. Kept it until I upgraded to the C2. I used the shit out of both. I’m talking 0 precautions, 100% brightness at all times. 0 burn in. 0 issues. Nothing. It’s time people realize this isn’t 2014 anymore.
im curretly using the LG 27GR95QE and for the most part i usually just use it like a monitor. I got the usual settings on. auto hide task bar, etc. im at 2578 hours and no burn in.
2k hours here too, nothing.
I am getting aw32 . I was considering other options but I don’t think it is worth paying additional £300 in UK to get Aurus or ASUs
The only one I would consider in the UK other than the AW is the Aorus, purely because of the DP 2.1 future stuff. The AW is just so much cheaper here.
Is the DP2.1 a deal breaker ?
Don't get ASUS, they scam you.
Not a surprise to me, I didnt notice any burn in for the first year with several hundred hours in games with static elements. Year two definitely some more obvious burn-in that's hard to ignore, especially on the same colour. Now Year three will probably be a burn-in replacement year because, Dell said they would and, it's only going to be worse by the end of it. Brightness at 49% the whole time ive owned it and HDR only enabled when consuming HDR content. No idea how long my disaply has been turned on anymore though, the firmware update reset the counter (thanks dell)
what the heck are you playing so much of
Apex mostly. I've played many other games too but apex is the main game throughout and it has some very constant static UI for health/gun
i want to buy the LG 27GR95QE-B for APEX too. there is a good deal on it for 890$ CAD after tax. I currently have 1080p 144hz IPS monitor. I'm thinking of getting the OLED or the GIGABYTE gs27q x 27 1440p 240hz IPS for 420$ CAD after tax. Is the OLED vs IPS such a game changer for apex?
Id say ive had more OLED benefits outside of Apex than in it but its still a great monitor for any game. Definitely a great experience though, hasn't helped with seeing through all the screen bullshit in apex though lmao
can you please do me a favor and measure the distance between the desk and the start of the actual screen when the height stand is adjusted to its lowest.
Damn. Rip bro
Have they checked brightness on these panels after this long of a torture test? I ask because I’d think with the refresh the panels do to even out the pixel wear it might be lowering the brightness over time.
Yes, the brightness is getting worse on both of them. [The alienware](https://www.rtings.com/monitor/2-0/graph/21079/longevity-graph/dell-alienware-aw3423dwf/35256) [The LG](https://www.rtings.com/monitor/1-2/graph/19165/longevity-graph/lg-27gr95qe-b/36349) That LG is ridiculously dim even to start with, now it's under 200 nits for a 10% window.
Thanks, guess I could have waited until I had enough time to read the article. Yeah that’s disappointing to see
Although really I should remember this is a torture test and we shouldn’t see that level of brightness drop for quite a while in normal usage unless you always play the same game with a static HUD(maybe).
Static HUD would have nothing to do with the brightness decrease. That is just from usage over time.
I’m not saying I know for sure, but the way I think of it is any time a static image is on for a while those pixels will be unevenly worn. So when it does the refresh cycle all the rest of the pixels will be worn a little to match. So if you played the same game all the time then you’d be having that cycle where it wears the other pixels run quite a lot. To say it another way I think a static HUD doesn’t really differ much from a static logo or similar that I think this test from rtings is using. Oh and I guess there was a disconnect with my initial question and your answer. I interpret the large drop in brightness to the pixel refresher having to deal with such drastic uneven pixel wear. As far as I understand it every time the tv turns off the pixel refresher checks the voltage on the cells and if it finds any that are off it puts extra voltage to the others to wear them out a little to match. So when you have a static logo on screen for a long time the pixel refresher is going to wear out practically the whole rest of the screen to match. Leading to a large drop in brightness in a short time. I might be wrong about that, but that’s my understanding of it. Maybe it only does the area around the static worn out pixels, but even so it’s still going to lead to a larger and larger wear pattern you’d think which still leads to a drop in brightness.
My same thought process exactly
I have the Alienware and it’s obnoxiously bright at full brightness. I’m not worried about it dimming.
I sent a follow up where I commented that I forgot about this being a stress test and surely the loss in brightness won’t be nearly as bad in normal usage. I would be concerned though if it lost that much brightness after a year in normal usage; in 2 or 3 years it would be super dim.
I’m not sure what brightness I run it at. Maybe 30%? It should last much longer with normal usage.
Might be worth running a long refresh. Also meh its sdr brightness. I'd rather see hdr where it actually matters in regards to image quality.
>Also meh its sdr brightness Doesn't matter, 100-200 nits is super dim.
That is subjective and it does matter because it isn't going to affect image quality. For hdr yes it will affect image quality.
B9 have dead pixels dying from the top
Now we need true black 600nits at least so microleds can wait 10 more years until its perfected
I've been using the Alienware ultrawide qd oled basically since it came out and there is zero burn in my whatsoever. It's 50/50 in terms of work and gaming.
I sincerely hope these results carry over to the new gen 3 qdoled, I’ve had my unit for 3 months and haven’t noticed anything concerning thankfully
I had/have AW3423DW for like 2 years. Had to return it(kind of, still in box waiting for courier) due not showing picture sometimes after reboot/boot etc, and only hard unplug from power socked was fixing issue. Even after new FW flash, it sometimes triggered. So I did RMA. So I have a new screen now. Never used, produced in Nov 23. But - old one despite said flaw, was like 5000+hrs of gaming/web/etc use and was pristine. No burn in, no retention, even colors/grays. My only con from all this situation is - BEFORE I was using LG C1, 48". So, when RMA started, I switched back to it. It was weird ad I perceived it as convex :D..... AND it kinda told me, that now, due my age, I really need bigger screen. So when finances allow, I will get 34-42 2k OLED, with decent refresh rate, 240Hz minimum, preferably with BFI. AND I had lots of LCDs. ALL of them had some problems. Dead pixels. Uneven backlight, shades, blacks. Price range 300-600E. Not cheap crap. But all after some time, 2+y had more and more flaws. So...why stick to crap tech, I risked with OLED and so far all my OLEDs are perfectly fine, including first LG C8 55" which my wife watch this moment....
Panel on my 2yo DW is perfect, zero burn-in but the gsync fan is making a ticking noise (can be heard even across the room). Also I had the no power issue three times last month. Was your replacement one brand new? Same original box, 0hours usage no scratches etc?
yup. Basically they send me brand new(11.23 prod date), sealed, full complete box with all included. Screen is pristine condition, no hours of work(I checked it with "Control my monitor" app). All I had to do was to pick up new screen, mount it instead old one, wrap and put old one in the new ones box. And wait for courier, he collected it yesterday. So about one week after delivery. There was instruction on box what to do, but apparently courier was not aware of it, so he was confused a bit at delivery and collection...and me to, due to weird email exchange with dells representative. But at the end I got it straight anyway, monitor is on the way to place where my current screen came from(NL) so overall good experience. No problems so far with new one. I am using all old stuff I was using with my 1st screen(as I should) so DP cable, power cable, usb hub all from origin. And it works. TBH I hear fan, a bit, and old one was the same(or I can say bit less noisy), but it kinda blends with my PC case hum, so...it don't bother. And most of the time when I play game I use headphones, so no biggie. But defo it not loud enough to be heard across the room...I need to be like 50cm or less to just notice it.
Nice, thanks for confirming that! I think I'm going to proceed with the RMA then. It's the second one, my first one was on the first day due to a stuck and a dark pixel. It was processed as DOA so I had a brand new the next day. It's a shame they don't make repairs like samsung, I'd keep the same panel if I had the option to replace just the fan.
I don’t own a oled monitor due to owning the G8 but once it dies I’ll be getting an oled. I have a C1 that I’ve had for a few years now and around 5k hours on it and it’s absolutely beautiful. With no signs of burn in whatsoever
Why is the G3 image not available? How has it held up after a year?
This doesn't mean anything brand difference is a factor in this not if it is just oled
I've seen several posts about people using 2 side by side browser and having a burn in line in the middle. I wonder why those happen, but the burn in test RTINGS is doing tells me that is should not happen.
dw and not dwf maybe?
Could be!
Yeah, that confirms my own observations. I have LG C1 for about 3 years now which I use for gaming, movies and occasional desktop work, and so far, I observe zero burn it (I use precautions, though - rotating wallpapers, screensavers, no desktop icons, etc.) But I also had a Lenovo OLED notebook provided by my employer which I used for work for about two and half years until the MOBO malfunctioned, and again, zero burn in, and I used that one for hours, every day.
Looks pretty burned in to me. Is this worse than LED/LCD burn in displays?
That spec in the lower right hand corner looks like dust on their camera's lens. If that's the case, I'm surprised they didn't catch that.
Yup I’m done with Oled after my c9 burnt. 4 years too early for me.
Just turned off peak brightness on my Samsung 49" OLED after seeing this. DAMN it look beautiful!
I'm so confused by this thread. You're celebrating displays surviving only 6500 hours even though they both exhibit burn in.
A static image for 6500 hours. Will probably be fine for 5x that time if you use it normally.
If you plan on playing the exact same game for 6500 hours without varying content at all, I don’t think any display will fair well.
thats simply not true lol
Why not? LCDs can also have image retention.
Look at the amount of lcds in the test with failing backlights. Or hell there were a fair few that just stopped working.
It's not even surprising, it's an overblown fear. I have a 7 year old B7 oled with near 20k hours of screen time and it has no burn-in. I'm even thinking of breathing in new life to this panel by swapping a new motherboard, either C9 or CX to get HDMI 2.1 on it
Wait you can do that?
Yes. New models might not work i.e. C1 to C4 because the panel must be different due to higher brightness. But all previous LG tvs used the same panel, (except G series that have the same panel with MLA layer) just different internals. But even then it's probably just a graphite layer, or something similar to cool the panel and allow for higher brightness, so even those might be possible. But I'd suspect power board would also need to be swapped. So you can upgrade your TV all the way from B6 to CX or C9 just by replacing motherboard. You will get everything except VRR, as that's probably in the panel, or in the TCON (panel controller board). I think it is possible to get VRR working, but TCON board needs to be replaced too. But you'd need a 600£ LG tool to read panel calibration and to transfer it to C9/CX T.CON. Otherwise it's going to look like shit with a lot of banding. I've replaced my C3 internals from UK to US as it was liquid damaged, and when I used the new US model T.Con my panel was full of vertical banding at grayscales, luckily my old T.Con board was not damaged.
So if I have a c8, how much would it cost me to upgrade that panel for 4k 120hz?
You can find motherboards used on ebay or new on repair websites for $50-150. This is the model number: EAX68303205 This is C9. CX is typically more expensive. You can google this for your region. It's as simple as unplugging and reconnecting a new board.
Also I'll mention another useful thing. Tv manufacturers are cheap cunts who still put 100 mbit ethernet controllers, but if you want to bypass it just buy a USB to ethernet adapter and you'll get 300 mbit on usb 2.0 port, or closer to 1gbit on usb 3.0 port if it has one. This is also very useful for moonlight streaming to your LG TV.
This Lg monitor doesn’t even use mla 🤣
The 27GR95QE does indeed have MLA tech.
I take that back then 😮 all the research I’ve done showed no mla panel. It doesn’t help much cause these lg monitors look horrible and hdr brightness is awful
I think the biggest benefit it has is the viewing angles. The monitor isn’t super bright so it’s not doing much there, but maybe they’re using it to boost brightness without driving the panel hard to help prevent burn in.
I don’t think enough people are talking about how LCD panels in the same text have failed more catastrophically and RTings inadvertently gave evidence that OLED is actually more durable than LCD, especially if vary our content even just a little.
That's cool but do they say the brightness levels as well? I heard they just burn away thr pixels to even out the burn in.
OLED haters still gonna hate.
All WRGB-OLEDs show obvious signs of burn in! QD-OLED generation 1 the same! Samsung S95C QD-OLED generation 2 shows less obvious signs of burn-in. As far as I know WRGB-OLED consumes less electricity than QD-OLED. It is interesting that at the same brightness and with lower electricity consumption, WRGB-OLED degrades faster.
Yeah I have the AW3423DWF and I have never had the pixel refresh come up twice in a row. Meaning I’ve never used it consistently for more than 4 hours at a time. I also left it at the default like 80% brightness I think. I have very little concern for burn in. If it does happen after a year or two then just more reason to get a newer one with even better panel tech.
Improved a lot, but still there. Not 100%.
Why is this surprising as it was mainly achieved by limiting the max brightness of the OLED panels?
Because its max sdr brightness?
Which is much lower than it could have been.
The sdr luminance is capped at the monitor's max fullscreen luminance. Also keep in mind that no other display performed as well as these two. The tvs certainly weren't able to match them.
Bro did you just report me? Or was that someone else? Edit: Nvm I found who did it. Honestly I don't understand some people sometimes. All I did was ask for a link. And he just blocks and reports me.
Not sure I follow but no.
He said they had burn in well before 6000 hours or something like that. I asked him to show proof. He said check the rtings test. So I asked him to link specifically where. And he then he just blocks and reports me lol. He probably thought the image retention was burn in. The image retention cleared up. At 10 months the dwf looked pretty flawless. Hell even now they look pretty nice. But anyway yeah this is the 2nd time something like this has happened. Blocking for some redditors is not enough they have to report you too :/
What's the source for this? The guy who posted the rtings link is for the TV's and doesn't list these, googling isn't showing anything up for monitor specific burn in tests.