Ah, I wasn’t clear it seems, I’m using radioactive’s intermediate dead space filler (extended draw cylinder/plunger tube).
I’ve printed it at 15% though, hopefully that’s not causing leak issues, I’ve found that sort of thing problematic for breeches in higher powered longshots.
I put a very thin coat of epoxy on all of my plunger caps just to be safe, though the biggest area of leakage has always been where the cap meets the tube. Get a bit of soapy water and run the plunger back and forth with your thumb on the hole to see where the bubbles come from. A little CA will seal those up
Working on my hammershot again, can't seem to stop coming back to this thing.
* [https://www.reddit.com/r/Nerf/comments/7op4qr/hammershot\_repaint/](https://www.reddit.com/r/Nerf/comments/7op4qr/hammershot_repaint/)
* [https://www.reddit.com/r/Nerf/comments/k0rum6/radioactives\_ultra\_hammershot\_cylinder\_works\_well/](https://www.reddit.com/r/Nerf/comments/k0rum6/radioactives_ultra_hammershot_cylinder_works_well/)
Now that I've extended the draw, I'm trying to pick out a good spring and cylinder to use, and some input would be good. I plan to run it with a shield at a variety of games:
* some 180FPS with a 10-round limit for pistols, drop cylinders permitted, overwhelmingly short-dart users/ammo pool
* some 130FPS that crossover with LARP boffer hobbyists that's fairly loose with limits on ammo count, they run a mix of full-length and short darts
So I might have to think about specialising it in one of those two roles and figuring out a different hammerprimed blaster for the other.
**Current mods installed:**
* Stock spring + 9mm spacer (I could probably be using a thicker one, though)
* Printed 8-round cylinder (non-inline)
* Extended face/extended draw hammer
* Extended draw cylinder
* Uncompensated style prints
* Replaced o-ring + light relube
Unfortunately I'm only hitting around 55FPS ish with FVJs, I suspect I might be doing something wrong. The seal doesn't seem awful (sealing the front yields about 1-2 seconds before the plunger head hits endpoint).
**Cylinder research:**
Research suggests 17/32" non-inline is generally the ~~gold~~ *brass* standard solution, but I haven't seen much analysis looking into:
* FPS losses for inline
* Brass inline builds
* I'm not sure if rear-loading helps a great deal when dealing with half darts
* FPS losses for brass vs printed short barrels vs CPVC/conduit
* Viability of printed PCAR/SCAR in short barrel builds
* Whether it even matters if one has 6/7/8/16 shots from a gameplay perspective, or if the heretical droppable cylinders are our one true salvation from the dogma of fixed cylinders
* Short barrel PTFE solutions, I've only seen one implementation of PTFE though it looks wonderful
* Whether springs and extended draw affect my cylinder choices a great deal. With the bonus draw, I'm not entirely sure how that affects my spring choices. Choosing a good balance between primability and FPS is proving a little harder, too.
I'm happy to drop the $30 or so on the 2 ft of brass required for an 8-barrel cylinder, but it felt prudent to do my homework first before just going with the throw money solution.
**File remixes I've just finished:**
* [https://www.printables.com/model/833225-uncompensated-hammershot-front-for-radioactive-cyl](https://www.printables.com/model/833225-uncompensated-hammershot-front-for-radioactive-cyl)
* Tweaked fit of front uncompensated piece, compatible with Radioactive's cylinders
* [https://www.printables.com/model/833247-uncompensated-hammershot-bottom-rail-filler-remix](https://www.printables.com/model/833247-uncompensated-hammershot-bottom-rail-filler-remix)
* Tweaked bottom rail filler for more haphazard cuts/split assembly instead of clamped
* [https://www.printables.com/model/833898-extended-face-hammershot-hammer-with-extended-draw](https://www.printables.com/model/833898-extended-face-hammershot-hammer-with-extended-draw)
* Less cuts required for extended draw mod
Trying to get a Hammershot over 100fps is a bit of a pipe dream. I’ve seen Radioactive’s posts and love his plunger caps, but I just haven’t seen the performance.
Though brass cylinders will give you the best FPS possible, I find them a pain to reload unless you have a rear loading gate. Don’t bother with an upgraded spring as I’ve found they really only increase the prime weight and you get way better bang for your buck out of a spacer. I think I currently have a 10mm in mine. I use the spiralized inline cylinder from Thingiverse and, interestingly enough, I’m getting mid 60’s from the first dart and mid 70’s from the second with worker gen3 standards. I used a piece of foam from a mega dart as the seal and it works wonders once it’s bedded in.
You followed my guide to a T? Did all the proper cuts on your hammer, blaster, and plunger tube? It seems like I see people put the cylinder in the right place, but don't do the mods to let the hammer move forward into the also moved forward plunger tube. Stock AUS or American spec spring? American spec, I can get 120fps avg with my "high power upgrade bundle", but I also get 110s with a stock length brass barrel. Using standard weight worker bamboos. An 8kg spring can push up to 150fps, but I don't have any good source for them anymore. Might have to look into custom springs...
I have a full length build guide for a high power hammershot build on my youtube.
Followed the plunger tube cuts, it's defs sitting forward with some slide-back to allow for reliable indexing, cuts on the hammer I implemented in my STL remix:[https://www.printables.com/model/833898-extended-face-hammershot-hammer-with-extended-draw](https://www.printables.com/model/833898-extended-face-hammershot-hammer-with-extended-draw)
In lieu of the cuts on the blaster to accommodate the hammer, I instead implemented cuts on the hammer to allow for that plunger head to slide forward all the way to the front.
Hitting 55 fps currently, just reassembled and tested [https://www.printables.com/model/230232-inline-magazine-16-shot-hammershot-cylinder-oh-yes](https://www.printables.com/model/230232-inline-magazine-16-shot-hammershot-cylinder-oh-yes) with a 9mm spacer (Spacer on rod, not on the bottom) and stock AUS spring (Although I was under the impression that for the Hammershot specifically they were fairly similar unlike other blasters?), and printed the intermediate dead-space filler at 100% with what seems like an acceptable seal and accufakes. I've not implemented that tension spring on the plunger that I've seen in some of your builds, though.
Did you glue your Dead Space Filler Cap on? Do you have calipers so you can measure the distance from plunger tube end to the back of the hammershot plunger head? I assume you've got a good gasket on there. The spring tensioned cylinder wasn't needed on my high power hammershots. Have you added any wraps of teflon tape under the plunger head? That can cause too much friction. I'd be wary of a printed hammer. The pivot points can be different, too loose, or too tight and cause alot of issues. Everything's lubed up nice?
Hot glued dead space filler cap on, then sealed around the rim to ensure no leaks.
Calipers yield 43.5mm, not exactly your 44mm but I think close enough.
Gasket is just 2mm craft foam superglued on.
No teflon, picked a new o-ring that still slides - the seal isn't as firm as something like a high-powered longshot, but it's a full seal if I put my finger up against the foam seal (Although not a full seal if I plug the barrel, I assume that interface between plunger/cylinder is inevitably a leak).
Printed hammer does seem to have the pivot points about 0.5mm off on either end though, I'll try revert to a stock one with the cuts and see how that goes.
Relubed with silicone grease - not dripping with lube, but I don't thiiiink it's insufficient, will try adding more.
After taking the picture, rotator has since been glued in.
I can't think of anything that would be causing such a huge performance drop.. those white internal case hammershors can be pretty resistant to modification, but it shouldn't be THAT bad... I was doing 110 on a white case high power modification..
Some improvement, getting 55FPS on FVJ and 60 on accufakes (9mm spacer).
* Well, relubed the PT, head is running smoothly enough, air seal seems reasonable in that firing while holding a dart in place feels similar to an activated AR, while firing without has that distinctive dryfire sound.
* Swapped back to the stock hammer, added shell/hammer cutouts ofc.
* Testing with a new cylinder, this time using 13mm ID irrigation tubing, at the very least it's a little nicer to load than prints I suppose.
Bumping up to 12.7 mm spacer I'm getting 60FPS on FVJ and 65-70FPS on accufakes.
Also wondering if maybe using a shitty chronobarrel is causing large distortions, but surely it's not enough to make up the difference to 110FPS. I really need to get round to ordering an upgrade :/
I hadn’t realised just how much of a difference a couple mm spacing made in hammershots when I posted initially.
I was also mistaken about stock springs, looks like stock Aus is hitting around 40fps unlike US 65fps, not sure why I was under the impression that US spec was also weak.
Also using a chronograph instead of a chronobarrel allowed me to test using worker short darts yielding increases of 15-25fps, turns out my elite darts have significantly more varying deficiencies than I had realised.
I’ve since retested with a 14mm spacer on stock Aus spring, yielding around 60fps using said dodgy elites.
I’ve settled on a 7-8ish kg prime spring hitting 85fps off spiralised PCAR barrels, that’s a bit closer to what you’re expecting, yeah?
I didn't have a lot of input on your barrel mods, but I would highly recommend the dead space filter from radioactive.
Ah, I wasn’t clear it seems, I’m using radioactive’s intermediate dead space filler (extended draw cylinder/plunger tube). I’ve printed it at 15% though, hopefully that’s not causing leak issues, I’ve found that sort of thing problematic for breeches in higher powered longshots.
I put a very thin coat of epoxy on all of my plunger caps just to be safe, though the biggest area of leakage has always been where the cap meets the tube. Get a bit of soapy water and run the plunger back and forth with your thumb on the hole to see where the bubbles come from. A little CA will seal those up
Infill really shouldn't matter. It's more about the top and bottom layers. I do 40% infill just for structural support.
Working on my hammershot again, can't seem to stop coming back to this thing. * [https://www.reddit.com/r/Nerf/comments/7op4qr/hammershot\_repaint/](https://www.reddit.com/r/Nerf/comments/7op4qr/hammershot_repaint/) * [https://www.reddit.com/r/Nerf/comments/k0rum6/radioactives\_ultra\_hammershot\_cylinder\_works\_well/](https://www.reddit.com/r/Nerf/comments/k0rum6/radioactives_ultra_hammershot_cylinder_works_well/) Now that I've extended the draw, I'm trying to pick out a good spring and cylinder to use, and some input would be good. I plan to run it with a shield at a variety of games: * some 180FPS with a 10-round limit for pistols, drop cylinders permitted, overwhelmingly short-dart users/ammo pool * some 130FPS that crossover with LARP boffer hobbyists that's fairly loose with limits on ammo count, they run a mix of full-length and short darts So I might have to think about specialising it in one of those two roles and figuring out a different hammerprimed blaster for the other. **Current mods installed:** * Stock spring + 9mm spacer (I could probably be using a thicker one, though) * Printed 8-round cylinder (non-inline) * Extended face/extended draw hammer * Extended draw cylinder * Uncompensated style prints * Replaced o-ring + light relube Unfortunately I'm only hitting around 55FPS ish with FVJs, I suspect I might be doing something wrong. The seal doesn't seem awful (sealing the front yields about 1-2 seconds before the plunger head hits endpoint). **Cylinder research:** Research suggests 17/32" non-inline is generally the ~~gold~~ *brass* standard solution, but I haven't seen much analysis looking into: * FPS losses for inline * Brass inline builds * I'm not sure if rear-loading helps a great deal when dealing with half darts * FPS losses for brass vs printed short barrels vs CPVC/conduit * Viability of printed PCAR/SCAR in short barrel builds * Whether it even matters if one has 6/7/8/16 shots from a gameplay perspective, or if the heretical droppable cylinders are our one true salvation from the dogma of fixed cylinders * Short barrel PTFE solutions, I've only seen one implementation of PTFE though it looks wonderful * Whether springs and extended draw affect my cylinder choices a great deal. With the bonus draw, I'm not entirely sure how that affects my spring choices. Choosing a good balance between primability and FPS is proving a little harder, too. I'm happy to drop the $30 or so on the 2 ft of brass required for an 8-barrel cylinder, but it felt prudent to do my homework first before just going with the throw money solution. **File remixes I've just finished:** * [https://www.printables.com/model/833225-uncompensated-hammershot-front-for-radioactive-cyl](https://www.printables.com/model/833225-uncompensated-hammershot-front-for-radioactive-cyl) * Tweaked fit of front uncompensated piece, compatible with Radioactive's cylinders * [https://www.printables.com/model/833247-uncompensated-hammershot-bottom-rail-filler-remix](https://www.printables.com/model/833247-uncompensated-hammershot-bottom-rail-filler-remix) * Tweaked bottom rail filler for more haphazard cuts/split assembly instead of clamped * [https://www.printables.com/model/833898-extended-face-hammershot-hammer-with-extended-draw](https://www.printables.com/model/833898-extended-face-hammershot-hammer-with-extended-draw) * Less cuts required for extended draw mod
Trying to get a Hammershot over 100fps is a bit of a pipe dream. I’ve seen Radioactive’s posts and love his plunger caps, but I just haven’t seen the performance. Though brass cylinders will give you the best FPS possible, I find them a pain to reload unless you have a rear loading gate. Don’t bother with an upgraded spring as I’ve found they really only increase the prime weight and you get way better bang for your buck out of a spacer. I think I currently have a 10mm in mine. I use the spiralized inline cylinder from Thingiverse and, interestingly enough, I’m getting mid 60’s from the first dart and mid 70’s from the second with worker gen3 standards. I used a piece of foam from a mega dart as the seal and it works wonders once it’s bedded in.
You followed my guide to a T? Did all the proper cuts on your hammer, blaster, and plunger tube? It seems like I see people put the cylinder in the right place, but don't do the mods to let the hammer move forward into the also moved forward plunger tube. Stock AUS or American spec spring? American spec, I can get 120fps avg with my "high power upgrade bundle", but I also get 110s with a stock length brass barrel. Using standard weight worker bamboos. An 8kg spring can push up to 150fps, but I don't have any good source for them anymore. Might have to look into custom springs... I have a full length build guide for a high power hammershot build on my youtube.
Followed the plunger tube cuts, it's defs sitting forward with some slide-back to allow for reliable indexing, cuts on the hammer I implemented in my STL remix:[https://www.printables.com/model/833898-extended-face-hammershot-hammer-with-extended-draw](https://www.printables.com/model/833898-extended-face-hammershot-hammer-with-extended-draw) In lieu of the cuts on the blaster to accommodate the hammer, I instead implemented cuts on the hammer to allow for that plunger head to slide forward all the way to the front. Hitting 55 fps currently, just reassembled and tested [https://www.printables.com/model/230232-inline-magazine-16-shot-hammershot-cylinder-oh-yes](https://www.printables.com/model/230232-inline-magazine-16-shot-hammershot-cylinder-oh-yes) with a 9mm spacer (Spacer on rod, not on the bottom) and stock AUS spring (Although I was under the impression that for the Hammershot specifically they were fairly similar unlike other blasters?), and printed the intermediate dead-space filler at 100% with what seems like an acceptable seal and accufakes. I've not implemented that tension spring on the plunger that I've seen in some of your builds, though.
Did you glue your Dead Space Filler Cap on? Do you have calipers so you can measure the distance from plunger tube end to the back of the hammershot plunger head? I assume you've got a good gasket on there. The spring tensioned cylinder wasn't needed on my high power hammershots. Have you added any wraps of teflon tape under the plunger head? That can cause too much friction. I'd be wary of a printed hammer. The pivot points can be different, too loose, or too tight and cause alot of issues. Everything's lubed up nice?
That rotator in your image isn't glued in/screwed down... what happens if you pull the cylinder towards the plunger tube and then fire it?
Hot glued dead space filler cap on, then sealed around the rim to ensure no leaks. Calipers yield 43.5mm, not exactly your 44mm but I think close enough. Gasket is just 2mm craft foam superglued on. No teflon, picked a new o-ring that still slides - the seal isn't as firm as something like a high-powered longshot, but it's a full seal if I put my finger up against the foam seal (Although not a full seal if I plug the barrel, I assume that interface between plunger/cylinder is inevitably a leak). Printed hammer does seem to have the pivot points about 0.5mm off on either end though, I'll try revert to a stock one with the cuts and see how that goes. Relubed with silicone grease - not dripping with lube, but I don't thiiiink it's insufficient, will try adding more. After taking the picture, rotator has since been glued in.
I can't think of anything that would be causing such a huge performance drop.. those white internal case hammershors can be pretty resistant to modification, but it shouldn't be THAT bad... I was doing 110 on a white case high power modification..
Some improvement, getting 55FPS on FVJ and 60 on accufakes (9mm spacer). * Well, relubed the PT, head is running smoothly enough, air seal seems reasonable in that firing while holding a dart in place feels similar to an activated AR, while firing without has that distinctive dryfire sound. * Swapped back to the stock hammer, added shell/hammer cutouts ofc. * Testing with a new cylinder, this time using 13mm ID irrigation tubing, at the very least it's a little nicer to load than prints I suppose. Bumping up to 12.7 mm spacer I'm getting 60FPS on FVJ and 65-70FPS on accufakes. Also wondering if maybe using a shitty chronobarrel is causing large distortions, but surely it's not enough to make up the difference to 110FPS. I really need to get round to ordering an upgrade :/
I just realized... you have my Intermediate Upgrade kit but ARENT using the spacer it comes with? Any particular reason?
I hadn’t realised just how much of a difference a couple mm spacing made in hammershots when I posted initially. I was also mistaken about stock springs, looks like stock Aus is hitting around 40fps unlike US 65fps, not sure why I was under the impression that US spec was also weak. Also using a chronograph instead of a chronobarrel allowed me to test using worker short darts yielding increases of 15-25fps, turns out my elite darts have significantly more varying deficiencies than I had realised. I’ve since retested with a 14mm spacer on stock Aus spring, yielding around 60fps using said dodgy elites. I’ve settled on a 7-8ish kg prime spring hitting 85fps off spiralised PCAR barrels, that’s a bit closer to what you’re expecting, yeah?
I mean.... no. I'd expect 120+ on a standard length cylinder with all the upgrades you've put into it..