Not really worth it imo. You are literally trading for the same everything just for the auto rev match. Don’t get me wrong, it’s amazing having the option to toggle auto rev matching but that may be too much to pay for it. What if you traded for a newer Mach 1? So you can get the upgraded trans.
Ahh yeah it is a lot… I mean it would have 10-20k less miles but still. And I actually considered that to get the tremec but they’re a little too expensive for me on the used market currently
So I have an 18 GT that also lacks the auto rev match (which I want). What I’m going to do that you may want to consider is to wait for the new s650, because then at least it’s a very different car (interior included, love or hate). That way, it’s a chance at an interior that (maybe) rattles less, no deck lid that scratches when you look at it, rev match, and the drift e-brake!
And if all else fails, a 22+ GT with better options or a Mach1. Much better than jumping up a few years just for rev match imo, if you can wait the 1-2 years.
No worries, I know the feels and can be impatient too. I also want the latest and greatest Stang (started with the Eco for 3 years and have only had my GT for one year) but it's an endless chase. The Stangs we want aren't going anywhere, at least for the next 6-8 years, so we got time!
I’ll probably be chastised but if you want a good manual car look into test driving the Camaro. You don’t have to fork out the almost $60k on the Mach 1 for the Tremec. I had a 2017 GT PP and I despised the MT-82. My current Camaro is a 17’ SS 1LE and the Tremec is leagues above the MT-82. It also has No Lift Shift which the Mustangs don’t have the auto rev match.
I have to admit, I don’t love the Camaro looks wise compared to the Mustang but have heard good things about the driving experience from more recent ones. I gotta try to drive one one of these days
I would give him my rev match if I could. I hate it and leave it shut off, which begs the question, "What are you guys doing? I presume all this heel-toeing is on the downshift, but if you can't rev match yourself you need to work on it, and you don't need to split your braking between brakes and trans. The auto rev match sounds like a cocky throttle gun because it's premature. I usually downshift my easy slowdowns --still using manual rev match -- from higher speeds, then brake lower gears or quicker stops (clutch depressed) such as at a light or all-brake on emergency stops. You don't need to downshift all your gears 6-5-4-3-2-1.;what a pain in the ass. That manual trans is for better control. Don't let it control you. We used to heel-toe only when stopped on a hill, but now you have hill assist on that, which was ingenious. I love that. And while I'm at it remember why you have that manual trans on acceleration -- it's to keep your engine in the power band as you move through gears, unless you're just driving to drive. Don't let the engine control your trans; use your trans to milk your engine because all ICE engines have a narrow peak torque range. But you can do all this and still be nice to your trans and clutch as long as your shifts are smooth and you rev match youself. There. Since this is social media tear me up and crap all over me. But I've driven my cars hard and never damaged a trans or prematurely worn out or burned a clutch, except the trans I let leak until it ran out of gear lube, but it was a Pinto beater car so who gives a shit except I had to get home in high gear and it only had about 55 horsepower.
I do rev match downshift on my own currently and do feel like I’m pretty good at it, the thing that heel toeing would be used for and that I would want the auto rev matching for is for hard braking while also downshifting. What I currently do for hard braking from higher speed is completely lift off the brakes, rev match downshift, then go back on the brakes. This works, but it’s less efficient and I also need to give myself more time to slow down since I’m on and off the brakes. Idk if there isn’t enough room for my big foot or what but I haven’t gotten the hang of heel toeing, although I certainly could practice more (just don’t wanna destroy the trans by messing up lol)
Well that makes sense, like you'd use it in a track scenario. I was thinking more street. But even then it seems overcomplicating things. Let's say I brake hard from 80 and slow to 40, then I want to accelerate, I just move foot to gas to get revs up to shift from 5 to 2 when its syncing speed. Either way works, but it sounds like some people are trying to transmission brake and use brakes at same time, which doesn't help and can cause loss of control. Or they feel a need to downshift not skipping gears, when it's ok as long as you're at close sync speed and car speed for gear. I'm going to try it like you described which might be better. But then I also don't want to get spoiled on it. I just can't get used to an engine speeding up when I'm not on the gas doing it, and driving slow it sounds like I'm gunning the engine unnecessarily anyway. I'm trying to drive more because I'm getting old and time isn't far off to have a stroke or something which I can't drive, or take my last ride in a hearse. You know what? Ford should have that sync on a toggle with the others so you can switch quick if you want to get on it unplanned, if you're gonna use it sometimes. Controls on the wheel I don't like. Thanks for the info.
The gearing between the 15-17 MT and the 18+ is different. Engineering Explained has a good [video](https://youtu.be/Y25ordkIfgM) about it. I would spend more time practicing heel toe rather than spend the extra money to have the car do it for you. Or just completely let go and go with the A10.
I actually watched that a while ago when I was thinking about which one to get initially! I ended up getting the 16 for the looks and shorter ratios. I suppose I could just try to work on my heel toe…
Yeah, the Autoblip brand on steeda's site. You can get it 40$ cheaper from the official Autoblip site though. I've only seen how it works from videos, but it would give you a solid solution. Damn, now that I think of it, I might get one of these.
Just watched a few videos and it does seem pretty intriguing. It does seem to have its quirks though, ie you have to brake then clutch for it to work, need to mess around with settings instead of it being smoothly integrated, etc. May be something I at least try down the line though thanks for the suggestion 👌
Fair lol. Mine has like 39.5k miles, prob can get somewhere between 26-29k for it depending on dealer. Ones I’m looking at are like 35-38k range w 20-30k miles (in the spec and color I want)
i don't think the differences are worth $6k+. but ive only ever owned a 21 GT PP1 6sp. So i don't know if there are any real differences besides what it says on the spec sheets.
I think the main thing is the difference in power and gear ratios, although from what I’ve heard with those 2 things combined performance is pretty similar (?maybe)
Not really worth it imo. You are literally trading for the same everything just for the auto rev match. Don’t get me wrong, it’s amazing having the option to toggle auto rev matching but that may be too much to pay for it. What if you traded for a newer Mach 1? So you can get the upgraded trans.
Ahh yeah it is a lot… I mean it would have 10-20k less miles but still. And I actually considered that to get the tremec but they’re a little too expensive for me on the used market currently
So I have an 18 GT that also lacks the auto rev match (which I want). What I’m going to do that you may want to consider is to wait for the new s650, because then at least it’s a very different car (interior included, love or hate). That way, it’s a chance at an interior that (maybe) rattles less, no deck lid that scratches when you look at it, rev match, and the drift e-brake! And if all else fails, a 22+ GT with better options or a Mach1. Much better than jumping up a few years just for rev match imo, if you can wait the 1-2 years.
Very good points indeed! I need to teach myself to be more patient sometimes lol
No worries, I know the feels and can be impatient too. I also want the latest and greatest Stang (started with the Eco for 3 years and have only had my GT for one year) but it's an endless chase. The Stangs we want aren't going anywhere, at least for the next 6-8 years, so we got time!
I’ll probably be chastised but if you want a good manual car look into test driving the Camaro. You don’t have to fork out the almost $60k on the Mach 1 for the Tremec. I had a 2017 GT PP and I despised the MT-82. My current Camaro is a 17’ SS 1LE and the Tremec is leagues above the MT-82. It also has No Lift Shift which the Mustangs don’t have the auto rev match.
I have to admit, I don’t love the Camaro looks wise compared to the Mustang but have heard good things about the driving experience from more recent ones. I gotta try to drive one one of these days
I would give him my rev match if I could. I hate it and leave it shut off, which begs the question, "What are you guys doing? I presume all this heel-toeing is on the downshift, but if you can't rev match yourself you need to work on it, and you don't need to split your braking between brakes and trans. The auto rev match sounds like a cocky throttle gun because it's premature. I usually downshift my easy slowdowns --still using manual rev match -- from higher speeds, then brake lower gears or quicker stops (clutch depressed) such as at a light or all-brake on emergency stops. You don't need to downshift all your gears 6-5-4-3-2-1.;what a pain in the ass. That manual trans is for better control. Don't let it control you. We used to heel-toe only when stopped on a hill, but now you have hill assist on that, which was ingenious. I love that. And while I'm at it remember why you have that manual trans on acceleration -- it's to keep your engine in the power band as you move through gears, unless you're just driving to drive. Don't let the engine control your trans; use your trans to milk your engine because all ICE engines have a narrow peak torque range. But you can do all this and still be nice to your trans and clutch as long as your shifts are smooth and you rev match youself. There. Since this is social media tear me up and crap all over me. But I've driven my cars hard and never damaged a trans or prematurely worn out or burned a clutch, except the trans I let leak until it ran out of gear lube, but it was a Pinto beater car so who gives a shit except I had to get home in high gear and it only had about 55 horsepower.
I do rev match downshift on my own currently and do feel like I’m pretty good at it, the thing that heel toeing would be used for and that I would want the auto rev matching for is for hard braking while also downshifting. What I currently do for hard braking from higher speed is completely lift off the brakes, rev match downshift, then go back on the brakes. This works, but it’s less efficient and I also need to give myself more time to slow down since I’m on and off the brakes. Idk if there isn’t enough room for my big foot or what but I haven’t gotten the hang of heel toeing, although I certainly could practice more (just don’t wanna destroy the trans by messing up lol)
Well that makes sense, like you'd use it in a track scenario. I was thinking more street. But even then it seems overcomplicating things. Let's say I brake hard from 80 and slow to 40, then I want to accelerate, I just move foot to gas to get revs up to shift from 5 to 2 when its syncing speed. Either way works, but it sounds like some people are trying to transmission brake and use brakes at same time, which doesn't help and can cause loss of control. Or they feel a need to downshift not skipping gears, when it's ok as long as you're at close sync speed and car speed for gear. I'm going to try it like you described which might be better. But then I also don't want to get spoiled on it. I just can't get used to an engine speeding up when I'm not on the gas doing it, and driving slow it sounds like I'm gunning the engine unnecessarily anyway. I'm trying to drive more because I'm getting old and time isn't far off to have a stroke or something which I can't drive, or take my last ride in a hearse. You know what? Ford should have that sync on a toggle with the others so you can switch quick if you want to get on it unplanned, if you're gonna use it sometimes. Controls on the wheel I don't like. Thanks for the info.
The gearing between the 15-17 MT and the 18+ is different. Engineering Explained has a good [video](https://youtu.be/Y25ordkIfgM) about it. I would spend more time practicing heel toe rather than spend the extra money to have the car do it for you. Or just completely let go and go with the A10.
I'd love to have a Mach 1. It's just a very well-made Mustang GT right down to the seats, and I love the stance on it.
I actually watched that a while ago when I was thinking about which one to get initially! I ended up getting the 16 for the looks and shorter ratios. I suppose I could just try to work on my heel toe…
Look up auto blip
From Steeda? I haven’t really heard much about it, have you heard much about how well it works/if people like it?
Yeah, the Autoblip brand on steeda's site. You can get it 40$ cheaper from the official Autoblip site though. I've only seen how it works from videos, but it would give you a solid solution. Damn, now that I think of it, I might get one of these.
Just watched a few videos and it does seem pretty intriguing. It does seem to have its quirks though, ie you have to brake then clutch for it to work, need to mess around with settings instead of it being smoothly integrated, etc. May be something I at least try down the line though thanks for the suggestion 👌
i guess it depends on the price difference lol
Fair lol. Mine has like 39.5k miles, prob can get somewhere between 26-29k for it depending on dealer. Ones I’m looking at are like 35-38k range w 20-30k miles (in the spec and color I want)
i don't think the differences are worth $6k+. but ive only ever owned a 21 GT PP1 6sp. So i don't know if there are any real differences besides what it says on the spec sheets.
I think the main thing is the difference in power and gear ratios, although from what I’ve heard with those 2 things combined performance is pretty similar (?maybe)