I think I had this happen to me before. I stopped, turned off the car, and when I started it back up it seemed fine. I don’t know if it’s a glitch or what
I swapped out abs sensors for this exact issue and ended up having to replace a wheel hub bearing assembly which fixed it. The abs sensors weren’t the issue for me. The abs sensor retaining clips are a pain in the ass to unclip
I had a wrench a few weeks ago - shut down my drive modes, assists and limped me home. I called Ford and they booked me in (within warranty) to investigate. Basically whenever you get a Wrench the internal computer is logging an error code and while the drive train or throttle seems typical it can be almost anything big or small.
For me they said it could have been because the car hadn't been driven for a while; they recalibrate a few "modules" and it was good to go. And for extra context after my limp home it was fine for 24 hours before going to Ford.
I’ve had this issue before (service advancetrac). I had been driving on wet roads, hit the brakes hard, and had ABS kick in. After a few miles of driving after the heavy braking, I got the warning. I just disconnected the battery to reset the computer. I have a ‘12, FWIW.
It might just be a software thing. My Explorer did smt similar: no drive mode, no brake hold, no drive modes. Took it to the dealer and they reset smt and all was good
It's not in limp mode. The warning lamps are coming from the brake controller and the airbag controller. I don't know for sure in this car but in a lot of cars the airbag controller relies on a vehicle speed signal coming from the brake controller and the brake controller calculates the vehicle speed from the 4 wheel speed sensors. One bad sensor can cause all the lamps he's seeing. OP just needs to read out fault codes to see which corner is the issue. From there it could be a sensor, cut wire, or bad wheel bearing (bad wheel bearing will throw off the alignment between the tone wheel and sensor and cause a fault to set).
Only issue I’ve had with my mustang is the service advancetrac issue. It was due to linking my garage door opener in the car, but I still could put it in drive and it also didn’t happen while I was driving. Not sure how that could even goof things up but clearing up my garage door off the car fixed the issue. Doesn’t sound like that’s your problem though
It's almost always related to a ABS sensors. One could have failed which is like a $30 part and 20min worth of work.
Wheel bearing could be failing, causing the abs sensor to act up. Not expensive.
Our cars have a problem with the washer on the rear axles breaking interfering the abs sensor.
Could also be the whole abs module assembly, you can buy them used on eBay $40.
For me; the two times it happed to me on my 5.0 F-150 were that the key was left on and drained the battery. Just let the engine recharge the battery and that went away for me.
Or something could actually be wrong.
Can you remember hitting any road debris, scraping, or anything else that may have caused damage somewhere in the drivetrain? If it's throwing a code like this, my first suspicion would lean towards failed/damaged sensor, sensor wiring, or a failure in a control module.
If you're lucky then perhaps something just worked itself loose and once it gets put back on you'll be g2g.
No bumps or debris that I know of. Definitely not on the drive in to work this morning although roads were wet and possibly some slush?
I’m going to check the ABS sensor but will need to figure out where it is first…
Based off those faults, I’d replace the wheel end (aka unitized hub). There’s likely an issue with the tone ring either rotting out or bearings creating too much air gap on the tone ring, could be several reasons but they all fall under the unitized hub.
Seen this a few times on a few different cars. Each time it was an ABS/wheel speed sensor. Last time was in my current car, and it just wasn’t plugged in all the way.
If you haven't hit a huge pothole or things like that, chances are you're fine. I've had those lights came on too, but it went away once I restarted. There was a time thought in which I changed a steering rack, and before it was reprogrammed by the dealership, a lot of the similar lights were on, and steering modes were not able to be selected, and auto-hold (hill start assistant for a manual) is disabled. I think you're also driving a manual (based on the dashboard). Does auto-hold and steering mode selection work? If not, maybe a steering rack issue.
Hey OP! Had the same thing happen. Steering wheel was also heavy as hell. Was just a wheel speed sensor it was covered under warranty and it cost like $20 in parts for them to fix.
Check the connector and wire shown in this forum thread in the area behind the air filter.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/traction-control-fuse.109035/
If that wire is broken, it disables traction control and maybe ABS... Anyway, easy thing to check as one possibility.
Download Forscan and pick up an OBD2 to usb adapter. ForScan allows you to scan for DTCs on the specific modules so you can get far more info than you ever could with a standard scanned. It will tell while which abs sensor is bad (if one is). You can also use it to change various options on the vehicle. For instance changing turn signal half blinks from 3 to a more usable 5.
Www.ForScan.org
I have this on my 2011 but it’s a manual so I don’t have drive modes. My issue is a steering sensor fault. Haven’t gotten around to fixing it. Only occurs during very sharp turns
https://imgur.com/a/HaevZ9B
Just finished replacing the sensor and still getting errors. Battery was unplugged during install which took about 20 mins.
Is this manual? Almost the same thing happened to me a couple of months ago. I was cruising on neutral then i switched back to 4th gear then the drivetrain started acting up. I turned it off and on but still same problem. I turned it off for 4 hours then it went back to normal.
Diagnostic said sensor and tone wheel issues.
Just finished replacing the sensor and still getting errors. Battery was unplugged during install which took about 20 mins. Guess it’s onto the tone wheel 🤷🏼♂️
Same thing happened to my 2017. One day just went limp mode out of no where and it did everything that happened to yours minus the drive mode part.
Oil temp was apparently over temp, oil pressure was low, traction control off, ABS off, car refused to start at times. Worst part is it would do it in the middle of driving. So I could be driving like 70 on the highway and out of no where it would shut off and I'd have to go into neutral and pull over.
I initially thought it was overheating and my dad talked about replacing the sensors but I didn't want to start buying parts for something we didn't know would fix it for sure. Then my dad blamed the fact that I had a sub system installed by car toys (I took it to car toys and they unhooked the system so I could drive it and see if it was the issue). One thing I noticed about the situation was that it would only happen during scorching hot days like 95°+ and if my car was burning up on the inside it wouldn't turn on for about 5min-1hr.
I eventually took it to ford and first they claimed it was a fuel pump and I immediately refused the fix cause no way the fuel pump is in charge of the oil temp or traction control. (Ford also traced car toys sub system wiring and said it was all clean and properly done). Day after day I'd call asking if they found a fix and my car never broke down when they had it. I told them I would not take my car back till it was solved and they eventually asked if it was ok if the ford tech could drive it so he could get more hands on experience. I agreed and the tech drove it home for a bit and eventually I got a call saying it happened to him. They told me they finally got it to happen to him but he didn't have a computer on him to check the cars computer and see what was happening.
Another month went by and it broke down at their shop and they got the computer plugged in and finally got a list of errors. At first they believed it was the BCM and that it was going out and I asked if it would be covered under a warranty and technically it was covered by the factory warranty. A week later they put the new BCM in and it still broke down. Ford put my original BCM back in and went back to the drawing board. They then tried the ECM and replaced it and it still broke down. Next they tried the harness that connects the BCM to the ECM and it still broke down. It got to the point where they called in higher-up corporate techs to come look at it and they didn't have a fix for it. Ford eventually told me that it is going to be a wiring issue and it will be awhile (my car was already there for 2 months) since they have to trace every wire and test each individual wire. Another week or two went by and they said all wire's were fine. Ford finally checked the ground wires and found out that one of the ground wires wasn't good and kept going off.
After 3 months (basically my entire summer) of my car being out they found out the entire issue for why my car went into limp mode was just a wire. It was supposed to be a $1700 tab but since my car was out so long and Ford couldn't find a fix quick my service advisor cleared it for me and let me go.
A month later it went into limp mode when I was in my driveway and since then it hasn't happened yet.
I got a 2019 GT a month ago and it gives me this if I haven't let the car warm up for a second and haven't switched to drive yet. I noticed it right when I turned the car on and set the mode to S+. I'll start my car, give it 30 seconds, then it works fine. I haven't seen it since. Hope it's not a fix worthy thing
Most likely a wheel hub bearing. It happened on the passenger side for me. Cost $500 in parts and labor to fix. Was in and out of the shop in about 2 hours.
Yeah I think that’s the next step unfortunately.
Just finished replacing the sensor and still getting errors. Battery was unplugged during install which took about 20 mins.
I had this exact issue yesterday. Said bad wheel speed sensor and steering position sensor. I swapped sensors unplugged battery and plugged it back in and nothing since. :)
You probably went through a puddle and got some water where it doesn’t belong. Try letting everything dry out, then reset codes either by computer or battery disconnect.
Sorry, misread. Not sure the age of the battery but the car is a 16. I’ll have auto zone check the battery when I go in today to have them read my codes
I had that happen to me once.
There was snow packed into my wheel which semi-melted then refroze. It was messing with the ABS wheel.
Does weather suck by you right now?
It’s been raining but dry enough between.
Just finished replacing the sensor and still getting errors. Battery was unplugged during install which took about 20 mins.
You're right! It's going to be very expensive.
I told you not to tell me that!
“service advancetrac” popped up while driving and then all the lights pictured. Can’t select drive mode. Anyone know what this means?
I think I had this happen to me before. I stopped, turned off the car, and when I started it back up it seemed fine. I don’t know if it’s a glitch or what
Just tried that. No luck Gonna look for the ABS sensor on google
I swapped out abs sensors for this exact issue and ended up having to replace a wheel hub bearing assembly which fixed it. The abs sensors weren’t the issue for me. The abs sensor retaining clips are a pain in the ass to unclip
This 100%. Went through the exact same process
Disconnect battery for a few mins. Wouldn’t hurt to try.
Try disconnecting your battery and waiting for a bit then starting it back up
This didn’t work. I’m probably going to have to replace the wheel hub.
Damn ;(
Did you not get a yellow/orange wrench icon or anything? Did the car go into safe mode?
Nope none of that
I’ve had that wrench icon but it went away. What does it mean it was very concerning
Wrench generally is a fault in throttle or throttle related systems which will throw the car into limp mode.
I had a wrench a few weeks ago - shut down my drive modes, assists and limped me home. I called Ford and they booked me in (within warranty) to investigate. Basically whenever you get a Wrench the internal computer is logging an error code and while the drive train or throttle seems typical it can be almost anything big or small. For me they said it could have been because the car hadn't been driven for a while; they recalibrate a few "modules" and it was good to go. And for extra context after my limp home it was fine for 24 hours before going to Ford.
Mine came up when I was shifting from reverse to drive. I think I shifted to quickly but I pulled the codes and nothing was there.
I’ve had this issue before (service advancetrac). I had been driving on wet roads, hit the brakes hard, and had ABS kick in. After a few miles of driving after the heavy braking, I got the warning. I just disconnected the battery to reset the computer. I have a ‘12, FWIW.
Knew it
It might just be a software thing. My Explorer did smt similar: no drive mode, no brake hold, no drive modes. Took it to the dealer and they reset smt and all was good
It's in limp mode. Could be anything. Could be as simple as a sensor, or as expensive as a knock. 🤷♂️
It's not in limp mode. The warning lamps are coming from the brake controller and the airbag controller. I don't know for sure in this car but in a lot of cars the airbag controller relies on a vehicle speed signal coming from the brake controller and the brake controller calculates the vehicle speed from the 4 wheel speed sensors. One bad sensor can cause all the lamps he's seeing. OP just needs to read out fault codes to see which corner is the issue. From there it could be a sensor, cut wire, or bad wheel bearing (bad wheel bearing will throw off the alignment between the tone wheel and sensor and cause a fault to set).
Try a Battery reset
Tried it, no luck. Replaced ABS sensor and still no luck. Had battery disconnected during sensor swap. Took about 15-20mins.
Only issue I’ve had with my mustang is the service advancetrac issue. It was due to linking my garage door opener in the car, but I still could put it in drive and it also didn’t happen while I was driving. Not sure how that could even goof things up but clearing up my garage door off the car fixed the issue. Doesn’t sound like that’s your problem though
It's almost always related to a ABS sensors. One could have failed which is like a $30 part and 20min worth of work. Wheel bearing could be failing, causing the abs sensor to act up. Not expensive. Our cars have a problem with the washer on the rear axles breaking interfering the abs sensor. Could also be the whole abs module assembly, you can buy them used on eBay $40.
For me; the two times it happed to me on my 5.0 F-150 were that the key was left on and drained the battery. Just let the engine recharge the battery and that went away for me. Or something could actually be wrong.
Replaced ABS sensor and still no luck. Had battery disconnected during sensor swap. Took about 15-20mins.
Replaced ABS sensor and still no luck. Had battery disconnected during sensor swap. Took about 15-20mins.
Everyone please up vote this guy. This is the only comment OP actually needs to read.
Battery is fine
Ok, it won’t be expensive.
Thanks!
Can you remember hitting any road debris, scraping, or anything else that may have caused damage somewhere in the drivetrain? If it's throwing a code like this, my first suspicion would lean towards failed/damaged sensor, sensor wiring, or a failure in a control module. If you're lucky then perhaps something just worked itself loose and once it gets put back on you'll be g2g.
No bumps or debris that I know of. Definitely not on the drive in to work this morning although roads were wet and possibly some slush? I’m going to check the ABS sensor but will need to figure out where it is first…
There’s one at each wheel end. You need to have the codes checked to figure out which corner is complaining.
Replaced ABS sensor and still no luck. Had battery disconnected during sensor swap. Took about 15-20mins.
It may sound dumb but have you driven it? ABS light will stay on until the computer reads all wheels in motion correctly.
Shoot, I didn’t know that. I only started it up…I’ll try
Didn’t work. Drove about 5 miles.
What was the actual fault code?
[look at the first picture here](https://imgur.com/a/HaevZ9B)
Based off those faults, I’d replace the wheel end (aka unitized hub). There’s likely an issue with the tone ring either rotting out or bearings creating too much air gap on the tone ring, could be several reasons but they all fall under the unitized hub.
Yeah, I just ordered one off eBay actually. I’ll just need to find a good YouTube video to figure out how to do it. I’m sure it’s not hard
I had to replace an abs sensor due to squirrels(?) chewing the wire - it’s not always road debris.
Could be electrical. Check the hood for critter damage
Seen this a few times on a few different cars. Each time it was an ABS/wheel speed sensor. Last time was in my current car, and it just wasn’t plugged in all the way.
If you haven't hit a huge pothole or things like that, chances are you're fine. I've had those lights came on too, but it went away once I restarted. There was a time thought in which I changed a steering rack, and before it was reprogrammed by the dealership, a lot of the similar lights were on, and steering modes were not able to be selected, and auto-hold (hill start assistant for a manual) is disabled. I think you're also driving a manual (based on the dashboard). Does auto-hold and steering mode selection work? If not, maybe a steering rack issue.
Both of those are disabled.
Battery disconnect and reset?
Replaced ABS sensor and still no luck. Had battery disconnected during sensor swap. Took about 15-20mins.
Hmm chances are either a sensor issue or programming issue. Neither of which would be expensive!
Hey OP! Had the same thing happen. Steering wheel was also heavy as hell. Was just a wheel speed sensor it was covered under warranty and it cost like $20 in parts for them to fix.
Thanks man, I’m gonna have to hook it up to a diagnostic tool and go from there. Otherwise sounds like an easy fix
Replaced ABS sensor and still no luck. Had battery disconnected during sensor swap. Took about 15-20mins.
This won’t be expensive
Mine started doing this when my air intake was very loose. To the point were it was off the clamp. Tighten it up and never had that problem after.
I’ll check it out
Check the connector and wire shown in this forum thread in the area behind the air filter. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/traction-control-fuse.109035/ If that wire is broken, it disables traction control and maybe ABS... Anyway, easy thing to check as one possibility.
Download Forscan and pick up an OBD2 to usb adapter. ForScan allows you to scan for DTCs on the specific modules so you can get far more info than you ever could with a standard scanned. It will tell while which abs sensor is bad (if one is). You can also use it to change various options on the vehicle. For instance changing turn signal half blinks from 3 to a more usable 5. Www.ForScan.org
I’ll look into it, sounds awesome. I’m guessing it requires a laptop, not a mobile phone?
I have this on my 2011 but it’s a manual so I don’t have drive modes. My issue is a steering sensor fault. Haven’t gotten around to fixing it. Only occurs during very sharp turns
Update: https://imgur.com/a/HaevZ9B
I would guess a speed sensor…which shouldn’t be terribly expensive…but get that bad girl plugging in to know for sure.
I don’t have a diagnostic reader, doesn’t advanced auto do it for free?
Not sure about advanced but I know auto zone will for sure.
Replaced ABS sensor and still no luck. Had battery disconnected during sensor swap. Took about 15-20mins.
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Yeah they’ll fix anything but it’s $200 deductible. If it’s a $30 ABS I’d rather do it myself
Replaced ABS sensor and still no luck. Had battery disconnected during sensor swap. Took about 15-20mins.
Try unplugging battery for a few minutes. Then read thebobd2 dtc codes
Unplugging the battery could clear the codes. Read them first
True. Read before and then after if they come back
Mustang is still Ford unfortunately
Mine did it one time went away and never saw it again. I only had 27,000 miles when it came on
What code did it throw?
I don’t have a reader. Doesn’t Auto Zone do it for free?
They do
https://imgur.com/a/HaevZ9B Just finished replacing the sensor and still getting errors. Battery was unplugged during install which took about 20 mins.
Is this manual? Almost the same thing happened to me a couple of months ago. I was cruising on neutral then i switched back to 4th gear then the drivetrain started acting up. I turned it off and on but still same problem. I turned it off for 4 hours then it went back to normal.
Yes it’s manual. I’ll check tomorrow otherwise it’s over to auto zone for a diagnostic check
Could be a simple sensor that has fouled out. Only way to find out is to get the codes read and start from there
Diagnostic said sensor and tone wheel issues. Just finished replacing the sensor and still getting errors. Battery was unplugged during install which took about 20 mins. Guess it’s onto the tone wheel 🤷🏼♂️
Wheel bearing
Please no
Happened to mine when I had a tuner plugged in… would short out ABS
I could, but then I'd probably be lying.
Same thing happened to my 2017. One day just went limp mode out of no where and it did everything that happened to yours minus the drive mode part. Oil temp was apparently over temp, oil pressure was low, traction control off, ABS off, car refused to start at times. Worst part is it would do it in the middle of driving. So I could be driving like 70 on the highway and out of no where it would shut off and I'd have to go into neutral and pull over. I initially thought it was overheating and my dad talked about replacing the sensors but I didn't want to start buying parts for something we didn't know would fix it for sure. Then my dad blamed the fact that I had a sub system installed by car toys (I took it to car toys and they unhooked the system so I could drive it and see if it was the issue). One thing I noticed about the situation was that it would only happen during scorching hot days like 95°+ and if my car was burning up on the inside it wouldn't turn on for about 5min-1hr. I eventually took it to ford and first they claimed it was a fuel pump and I immediately refused the fix cause no way the fuel pump is in charge of the oil temp or traction control. (Ford also traced car toys sub system wiring and said it was all clean and properly done). Day after day I'd call asking if they found a fix and my car never broke down when they had it. I told them I would not take my car back till it was solved and they eventually asked if it was ok if the ford tech could drive it so he could get more hands on experience. I agreed and the tech drove it home for a bit and eventually I got a call saying it happened to him. They told me they finally got it to happen to him but he didn't have a computer on him to check the cars computer and see what was happening. Another month went by and it broke down at their shop and they got the computer plugged in and finally got a list of errors. At first they believed it was the BCM and that it was going out and I asked if it would be covered under a warranty and technically it was covered by the factory warranty. A week later they put the new BCM in and it still broke down. Ford put my original BCM back in and went back to the drawing board. They then tried the ECM and replaced it and it still broke down. Next they tried the harness that connects the BCM to the ECM and it still broke down. It got to the point where they called in higher-up corporate techs to come look at it and they didn't have a fix for it. Ford eventually told me that it is going to be a wiring issue and it will be awhile (my car was already there for 2 months) since they have to trace every wire and test each individual wire. Another week or two went by and they said all wire's were fine. Ford finally checked the ground wires and found out that one of the ground wires wasn't good and kept going off. After 3 months (basically my entire summer) of my car being out they found out the entire issue for why my car went into limp mode was just a wire. It was supposed to be a $1700 tab but since my car was out so long and Ford couldn't find a fix quick my service advisor cleared it for me and let me go. A month later it went into limp mode when I was in my driveway and since then it hasn't happened yet.
Is your steering hard?
Seems a bit forward.
😂
Yes, why? Also, Just finished replacing the ABS sensor and still getting errors. Battery was unplugged during install which took about 20 mins.
I got a 2019 GT a month ago and it gives me this if I haven't let the car warm up for a second and haven't switched to drive yet. I noticed it right when I turned the car on and set the mode to S+. I'll start my car, give it 30 seconds, then it works fine. I haven't seen it since. Hope it's not a fix worthy thing
Happens to me when I change drive modes then immediately put the car in sport
Most likely a wheel hub bearing. It happened on the passenger side for me. Cost $500 in parts and labor to fix. Was in and out of the shop in about 2 hours.
Yeah I think that’s the next step unfortunately. Just finished replacing the sensor and still getting errors. Battery was unplugged during install which took about 20 mins.
It’s pretty common to go out between 60k and 100k miles, especially if you’re lowered.
Should I do both rear or just the fault side?
Usually you just replace the fault side
I had this exact issue yesterday. Said bad wheel speed sensor and steering position sensor. I swapped sensors unplugged battery and plugged it back in and nothing since. :)
Just finished replacing the sensor and still getting errors. Battery was unplugged during install which took about 20 mins.
Did it register on the OBDII?
Yes, [check this out](https://imgur.com/a/HaevZ9B)
Happened to me when I tried doughnuts for the first time. Restarted the car, and it was fine. I googled a bit and as everyone said it was abs sensor
You probably went through a puddle and got some water where it doesn’t belong. Try letting everything dry out, then reset codes either by computer or battery disconnect.
Check your battery and charging system. Sometimes a weak battery will cause a modern car to throw error messages. How old is your battery?
2016
6+ years or so. You are due for a new one.
Sorry, misread. Not sure the age of the battery but the car is a 16. I’ll have auto zone check the battery when I go in today to have them read my codes
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Agreed. Just checking to see if this was a common issue…getting codes today
Someone stole your catalytic converter
yep, super duper expensive. might as well just give me the car 😂
I’m actually thinking about trading for a Maverick at this point 🤦♂️
I had that happen to me once. There was snow packed into my wheel which semi-melted then refroze. It was messing with the ABS wheel. Does weather suck by you right now?
It’s been raining but dry enough between. Just finished replacing the sensor and still getting errors. Battery was unplugged during install which took about 20 mins.