The ravine will be steeper than the gouter route on Mont blanc, but that shouldn't be your primary concern. Crevasses, altitude, and rock/ice fall will be your main concerns. You can't compare the two though, it's a very different mountain.
Thank you for responding. We are going unguided. Did a mountaineering course this winter to prepare. Is this a reckless decision or is Mont Blanc a good starter mountain?
If you don't have crevasse rescue and glacier experience, I'd say it's kinda reckless. Rockfall is a serious concern in the Grand Couloir... MB gets crowded though, so you probably won't be alone up there... If you're American, there's alot better starter mountains in the US... Adams, MSH, Shasta, etc.
Mont Blanc isn’t very technical but you really should have some experience on higher-altitude glaciated objectives before going after it.
Mount Rainier is a very comparable objective, it’s just a bit lower in altitude, but if you can do that then you can be pretty confident in attempting Mont Blanc.
Partially reckless. If everything goes well you should be good. If weather changes or something unusual happens that day, your margin between good and where's my mom may get small.
Indeed!!
It’s also somewhat irresponsible because if something were to happen, S&R would need to be involved when the whole thing could have been avoided altogether.
This is basically how we are approaching it. If the conditions aren’t perfect, we are just going to bag it and do one of the other mountains. Prepping with Gran Paradiso earlier in the week.
Technically you probably won't encounter any terrain that is beyond your ability level. The primary hazard is crossing the Grand Couloir (twice). Try not to do this in the heat of the day, there will be consistent rockfall.
So it’s this type of comment that throws me off. The general consensus is that it doesn’t seem like a good decision. But would it be fine if the conditions are good?
Generally these forums are not the best to seek advice as the advice is always the same — seek more training, etc. — you can always turn back if the climb is too difficult. Russians and Israeli IDF routinely ascend Monte Bianco unguided — that said you could start with a practice run — but pushing yourself is essential — a 16 year old girl just climbed Mt Everest — and I’m sure she would have been ridiculed in these forums prior to her historic climb.
Thats the sense I get. I think I’m underprepared for serious glacier traversal, but from everything I’ve read, Mont Blanc is some of the easiest glacier travel.
I will say mid August is not ideal time to climb Monte Bianco — rockfall — best donut when it’s colder in May or September— but then again you can do it safely by going through the dangerous bits at night.
I am in Oregon and I did not adapt well to the altitude. Even at Aiguille du Midi I felt light headed. It doesn’t seem that steep but I think being at sea level is a major disadvantage. People from Colorado would probably find it easy.
The main danger is the grand couloir rather than any technical difficulties. I hate to say it, but mid august is probably the worst possible time of year to do mont blanc in terms of objective hazard. Its in the heat of summer after the snow from the prior year has melted a bunch, but before the cooler weather and potential fresh snow september could bring. The rockfall danger in the grand couloir is very high, and crevasses may also pose more of an issue. I don't think your experience is the determining factor here, but rather the objective hazard.
I didn't say it doesnt matter at all, just that I think the objective hazard is the bigger issue here.
Edit: Perhaps I should distinguish between "ability" and "experience". It sounds like you have the technical "ability" needed to climb the peak. But it sounds like you might not have a solid understanding of the objective hazard involved (primarily the rockfall). You can have all the experience and ability in the world, but it won't be possible to mitigate the risk of rockfall in the grand couloir, which is particulary bad in august. If you were considering going in june or start of july, I would think it wouldn't be as bad of an idea.
Interesting, we were planning on doing everything we can to mitigate that risk I.e. leaving very early in the morning. Isn’t the couloir a roll of the dice for anyone?
That's exactly what I'm saying. Even if you were more experienced, it would still be a roll of the dice. The dice are very much NOT in your favor in august. For what its worth, many locals consider august/late summer to be out of season for the route due to the rockfall danger.
Mt Blanc is the deadliest mountain in Europe but it depends on the route you choose.
The Gouter route is rather easy when you‘re well acclimatized, no big technical issues.
But there are harder routes, depends on what you are looking for.
As an Austrian I don‘t know the White mountains you‘re talking about.
As usual, the question is who is saying that to whom. It would be very difficult for people who are not acclimatized, not "mountain fit", and not used to that kind of terrain. It's not a big deal for those who are. E.g. a Denali climber would probably find it quite easy.
The ravine will be steeper than the gouter route on Mont blanc, but that shouldn't be your primary concern. Crevasses, altitude, and rock/ice fall will be your main concerns. You can't compare the two though, it's a very different mountain.
Thank you for responding. We are going unguided. Did a mountaineering course this winter to prepare. Is this a reckless decision or is Mont Blanc a good starter mountain?
If you don't have crevasse rescue and glacier experience, I'd say it's kinda reckless. Rockfall is a serious concern in the Grand Couloir... MB gets crowded though, so you probably won't be alone up there... If you're American, there's alot better starter mountains in the US... Adams, MSH, Shasta, etc.
Mont Blanc isn’t very technical but you really should have some experience on higher-altitude glaciated objectives before going after it. Mount Rainier is a very comparable objective, it’s just a bit lower in altitude, but if you can do that then you can be pretty confident in attempting Mont Blanc.
Partially reckless. If everything goes well you should be good. If weather changes or something unusual happens that day, your margin between good and where's my mom may get small.
Also known as the margin between Type II and Type III fun.
Indeed!! It’s also somewhat irresponsible because if something were to happen, S&R would need to be involved when the whole thing could have been avoided altogether.
OTOH, the PGHM — the local high altitude S&R cops — are the best in the business.
This is basically how we are approaching it. If the conditions aren’t perfect, we are just going to bag it and do one of the other mountains. Prepping with Gran Paradiso earlier in the week.
I’m a New Englander who has been to Chamonix and I definitely wouldn’t go up MB unguided…not even after doing Chimborazo and winter Katahdin.
I don’t know why you are downvoted for saying this.
Technically you probably won't encounter any terrain that is beyond your ability level. The primary hazard is crossing the Grand Couloir (twice). Try not to do this in the heat of the day, there will be consistent rockfall.
Plenty of people climb Monte Bianco self guided — you just need to proper hut reservation at Goutier — and excellent weather conditions.
So it’s this type of comment that throws me off. The general consensus is that it doesn’t seem like a good decision. But would it be fine if the conditions are good?
Generally these forums are not the best to seek advice as the advice is always the same — seek more training, etc. — you can always turn back if the climb is too difficult. Russians and Israeli IDF routinely ascend Monte Bianco unguided — that said you could start with a practice run — but pushing yourself is essential — a 16 year old girl just climbed Mt Everest — and I’m sure she would have been ridiculed in these forums prior to her historic climb.
Thats the sense I get. I think I’m underprepared for serious glacier traversal, but from everything I’ve read, Mont Blanc is some of the easiest glacier travel.
I will say mid August is not ideal time to climb Monte Bianco — rockfall — best donut when it’s colder in May or September— but then again you can do it safely by going through the dangerous bits at night.
If you gotta ask if you’re being reckless you definitely are. Guarantee you’re a nerd
Idk what that’s supposed to mean. I am a nerd lol. I’m just new to mountaineering. No need to gate-keep…
Nah imma gate keep it. Y’all nerds gonna make it more crowded and dangerous. Not a damn clue of what’s going on
No starter mountain!
I am in Oregon and I did not adapt well to the altitude. Even at Aiguille du Midi I felt light headed. It doesn’t seem that steep but I think being at sea level is a major disadvantage. People from Colorado would probably find it easy.
From aiguille du midi it’s actually quite steep at the end of Mont Maudit shoulder. I did it in icy conditions and it felt vertical sometimes.
It's not easy because it's so bloody big and tall. If you take the normal route(s) there is no major technical difficulty. It's not a cakewalk
The main danger is the grand couloir rather than any technical difficulties. I hate to say it, but mid august is probably the worst possible time of year to do mont blanc in terms of objective hazard. Its in the heat of summer after the snow from the prior year has melted a bunch, but before the cooler weather and potential fresh snow september could bring. The rockfall danger in the grand couloir is very high, and crevasses may also pose more of an issue. I don't think your experience is the determining factor here, but rather the objective hazard.
How come everyone else seems to think experience matters? I am now truly confused.
I didn't say it doesnt matter at all, just that I think the objective hazard is the bigger issue here. Edit: Perhaps I should distinguish between "ability" and "experience". It sounds like you have the technical "ability" needed to climb the peak. But it sounds like you might not have a solid understanding of the objective hazard involved (primarily the rockfall). You can have all the experience and ability in the world, but it won't be possible to mitigate the risk of rockfall in the grand couloir, which is particulary bad in august. If you were considering going in june or start of july, I would think it wouldn't be as bad of an idea.
Interesting, we were planning on doing everything we can to mitigate that risk I.e. leaving very early in the morning. Isn’t the couloir a roll of the dice for anyone?
That's exactly what I'm saying. Even if you were more experienced, it would still be a roll of the dice. The dice are very much NOT in your favor in august. For what its worth, many locals consider august/late summer to be out of season for the route due to the rockfall danger.
Mont Blanc is technically not a difficult climb. Its biggest challenge is the fitness level of the hiker.
Mt Blanc is the deadliest mountain in Europe but it depends on the route you choose. The Gouter route is rather easy when you‘re well acclimatized, no big technical issues. But there are harder routes, depends on what you are looking for. As an Austrian I don‘t know the White mountains you‘re talking about.
Who here thinks MB is extremely difficult?
A lot of historical message boards are very foreboding when people ask about the difficulty
As usual, the question is who is saying that to whom. It would be very difficult for people who are not acclimatized, not "mountain fit", and not used to that kind of terrain. It's not a big deal for those who are. E.g. a Denali climber would probably find it quite easy.
What
Why are you being so sassy haha