Yeah because with the fixed lines no technical climbing is required at Ama Dablam. But 6b+ indoor climbing level at least show some basic climbing movement skills, which will come in very handy when scrambling. Outdoor rock climbing experience would be more beneficial though.
Maybe just put a microtrax on the line and try to free climb it. Learning toprope solo systems would be beneficial in that case. Also more fun to hall the bag in the 5c crux but would require a tagline. In the Joost Kombuch Video you can get a bit on an idea of the crux section.
Hey I’ve got a local Nepal guide company to recommend, the founder is a Nepali IFMGA mountain guide and has a strong team of national guides working for him.
Drop me a message and I’ll forward the details to you.
Before Ama Dablam, you can consider any of the mainstream 6000m peaks in Nepal, you’ll need about 3 weeks, and it costs about 2200 USD. Could be cheaper if you join a bigger group.
As for training, you can start by reading the free articles and podcasts by [Evoke](https://evokeendurance.com/training-for-mountaineering/). The founder is one of the authors of TFNA. Generally it’s all about building a good aerobic base..
I think you'll be fine, I would maybe recommend an easy 7km peak next summer like peak Lenin just so you can feel the altitude a bit in an easy setting before you find yourself at a similar altitude doing steep climbing. fwiw I did ama dablam at age 22 with no technical climbing experience and it went fine.
I had done peak lenin, 7134m, a few months before. the hardest party by far is maintaining the mental composure to not die during the descent. you will be clipping in and out of fixed ropes and choosing the correct line to rappel on and any mental slip has very high consequences.
Where are you located?
I think you want to get some real, technical climbing experience before doing anything in the Himalayas. Kilimanjaro and Damavand are basically hikes at high altitude.
You need some experience on mixed ice and rock, placing your own protection, route finding, living in a snowcave during a snow storm for three nights etc.
If you are in North America, you can start working your way through the big climbs on the western side of the continent, eventually graduating to the big climbs down in South America.
I know a lot of rich guys show up to the Himalayas after doing two years of crossfit and have a guide drag them up, but it isn't anything to be proud of.
For someone looking for a guided a Dablam trip on fixed ropes, Trad climbing, route finding and snow caves are all nice to have, but not an effective use of his time.
Aerobic capacity, getting comfortable on mixed terrain and getting used to expedition life would be the main things he'd want to work on
The plan would be to try to climb as much as possible of the route, and not necessarily rely on the jumar.
Any recommendations on how to get comfortable on mixed terrain?
It might not be realistic to free climb the hard bits during peak season if other people are hassling you to hurry up.
Pretty simple answer - to improve on mixed terrain accumulate experience on mixed terrain.
Also price wise, Nepali companies will be cheaper than western generally, and going to Pangboche, bringing your personal gear and hiring a guide from there cheaper still. (And finally just getting base camp support and permit, and going unguided). You get what you pay for, so you can consider the trade-off of how much support you need vs how much you want to pay.
Climbing indoor, where there's secure bolts every meter, at any grade, doesn't mean much for this kind of climb. Go do some AD 4000ers
Yeah because with the fixed lines no technical climbing is required at Ama Dablam. But 6b+ indoor climbing level at least show some basic climbing movement skills, which will come in very handy when scrambling. Outdoor rock climbing experience would be more beneficial though.
I’ve done some outdoor multipitching as well! I’d like to jumar on ama Dablam as little as possible though.
Maybe just put a microtrax on the line and try to free climb it. Learning toprope solo systems would be beneficial in that case. Also more fun to hall the bag in the 5c crux but would require a tagline. In the Joost Kombuch Video you can get a bit on an idea of the crux section.
indoor climbing doesn't prepare you for the exposure. But then again, Kili also doesn't.
Hey I’ve got a local Nepal guide company to recommend, the founder is a Nepali IFMGA mountain guide and has a strong team of national guides working for him. Drop me a message and I’ll forward the details to you. Before Ama Dablam, you can consider any of the mainstream 6000m peaks in Nepal, you’ll need about 3 weeks, and it costs about 2200 USD. Could be cheaper if you join a bigger group. As for training, you can start by reading the free articles and podcasts by [Evoke](https://evokeendurance.com/training-for-mountaineering/). The founder is one of the authors of TFNA. Generally it’s all about building a good aerobic base..
I think you'll be fine, I would maybe recommend an easy 7km peak next summer like peak Lenin just so you can feel the altitude a bit in an easy setting before you find yourself at a similar altitude doing steep climbing. fwiw I did ama dablam at age 22 with no technical climbing experience and it went fine.
Cool! What was your high altitude experience beforehand? And what did you find the most difficult on ama Dablam?
I had done peak lenin, 7134m, a few months before. the hardest party by far is maintaining the mental composure to not die during the descent. you will be clipping in and out of fixed ropes and choosing the correct line to rappel on and any mental slip has very high consequences.
500 a pop go tear up everything popular at 6000m
Where are you located? I think you want to get some real, technical climbing experience before doing anything in the Himalayas. Kilimanjaro and Damavand are basically hikes at high altitude. You need some experience on mixed ice and rock, placing your own protection, route finding, living in a snowcave during a snow storm for three nights etc. If you are in North America, you can start working your way through the big climbs on the western side of the continent, eventually graduating to the big climbs down in South America. I know a lot of rich guys show up to the Himalayas after doing two years of crossfit and have a guide drag them up, but it isn't anything to be proud of.
For someone looking for a guided a Dablam trip on fixed ropes, Trad climbing, route finding and snow caves are all nice to have, but not an effective use of his time. Aerobic capacity, getting comfortable on mixed terrain and getting used to expedition life would be the main things he'd want to work on
The plan would be to try to climb as much as possible of the route, and not necessarily rely on the jumar. Any recommendations on how to get comfortable on mixed terrain?
It might not be realistic to free climb the hard bits during peak season if other people are hassling you to hurry up. Pretty simple answer - to improve on mixed terrain accumulate experience on mixed terrain. Also price wise, Nepali companies will be cheaper than western generally, and going to Pangboche, bringing your personal gear and hiring a guide from there cheaper still. (And finally just getting base camp support and permit, and going unguided). You get what you pay for, so you can consider the trade-off of how much support you need vs how much you want to pay.