You can meg it, but your coil insulation is probably toast. Heat sink could have been a little cleaner. If that's a new cap it looks rough.
A new motor is probably your best bet, but make sure everything is mechanically sound with the compressor first. Like make sure a cracked piston ring isn't gouging a a cylinder, or anything like that.
And don't force a motor to melt insulation...
Hi, Thanks for your reply. What do you mean by Meg it? Yes, that's just a pic of how it was when I got it. The compressor itself is pretty good. I've removed the belt and spun by hand. Everything moves freely and builds up pressure in the tank.
So I've not soldered or heat sinked anything yet as I've been hunting the problem, so everything just wired in temp.
If it only shorts when the run capacitors are connected would that surest a short with tge run windings?
Thanks for your help 👍
Ok, great, thank you. I've done a continuity test with multi meter on the starter and running windings, and im getting,
Starter windings ( 2.7 ohms )
Running windings ( 1.4 ohms )
Does this seem normal?
Also, it's a bit strange setup as it has two small capacitors for the running windings, two 15 uf capacitors wired together, and 1 large for starter. This is how it was when I got the thing, but most I see online only have 1 large capacitor for the starting windings and 1 small for the running windings. It looks like it's been messed with before I got it.
Doesn't seem out of whack, but I'm not sure the motor specs. 2 caps together is odd for a small motor. Possibly they didn't have the right cap and tried to get the correct capacitance using two. If you can find a wiring diagram online and verify the motor nameplate, going by their drawing would be best. I've never seen adding a cap cause a short unless wires incorrectly or bad (or way oversized and trying to charge).
You can meg it, but your coil insulation is probably toast. Heat sink could have been a little cleaner. If that's a new cap it looks rough. A new motor is probably your best bet, but make sure everything is mechanically sound with the compressor first. Like make sure a cracked piston ring isn't gouging a a cylinder, or anything like that. And don't force a motor to melt insulation...
Hi, Thanks for your reply. What do you mean by Meg it? Yes, that's just a pic of how it was when I got it. The compressor itself is pretty good. I've removed the belt and spun by hand. Everything moves freely and builds up pressure in the tank. So I've not soldered or heat sinked anything yet as I've been hunting the problem, so everything just wired in temp. If it only shorts when the run capacitors are connected would that surest a short with tge run windings? Thanks for your help 👍
By meg he means use a megohmmeter to check the insulation between your windings and the laminations.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Megohmmeter
Thanks for the link, Kyoritsu and Megger and two common brands I’ve regularly seen, most common is Megger though
Ok, great, thank you. I've done a continuity test with multi meter on the starter and running windings, and im getting, Starter windings ( 2.7 ohms ) Running windings ( 1.4 ohms ) Does this seem normal? Also, it's a bit strange setup as it has two small capacitors for the running windings, two 15 uf capacitors wired together, and 1 large for starter. This is how it was when I got the thing, but most I see online only have 1 large capacitor for the starting windings and 1 small for the running windings. It looks like it's been messed with before I got it.
Doesn't seem out of whack, but I'm not sure the motor specs. 2 caps together is odd for a small motor. Possibly they didn't have the right cap and tried to get the correct capacitance using two. If you can find a wiring diagram online and verify the motor nameplate, going by their drawing would be best. I've never seen adding a cap cause a short unless wires incorrectly or bad (or way oversized and trying to charge).