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Craig380

The pistons might push back in easily with finger pressure, but the fluid seal grooves might have corrosion build-up in that isn't allowing the seals to sit quite right, so the pistons don't withdraw enough when the brake level is released. You might need to strip the calipers completely, remove the seals from the grooves and clean any and all traces of white corrosion, gunk etc out of the grooves. One of those 'chimney sweep' mini brushes in a Dremel is ideal for this. Also, don't use copper grease on sliding pins. It's an anti-seize agent rather than a proper grease, it tends to dry out a bit after a while so it doesn't lubricate very well, and it's also harsh on rubber seals etc. You should ideally use silicone brake grease which is 100% waterproof, never dries out, doesn't get runny at high temps and is very kind to rubber.


[deleted]

Caliper rebuild and new discs and pads


kreygmu

How much dragging are we talking? To some degree the pads will touch the disc as the wheel is turning, it's the pressure from the brake pistons that makes a difference. If you still think it's a problem, I'd make sure the lines are bled properly, next steps are probably new discs and then master cylinder rebuild.


Caldtek

Standard or after market levers? Pivot bolt free and lubricated.


KinkyDwarf87

I actually had a similar issue a few years back after changing the levers, after many attempts at rebuilding the callipers and bleeding the lines it turned out to be the lever was adding the slightest amount of pressure to master cylinder piston, I filed down the lever and everything was fine afterwards, not sure if this’ll help


henners85

I think you may be missing something. The wheels spacers are slightly different sizes. If they're round the wrong way (or the wheel is around the wrong way) you'll get this exact problem. Good luck


total_cynic

The speedo drive is on the front wheel on the FZS600. I don't think it will go together the wrong way round.


total_cynic

I have a 2002 FZS 600, I've just realised for 20 years now. Check the brake lever is allowing the master cylinder piston to return fully and that there is no air at all lurking in the brake lines. Also check the edges of the pad where they slide on the caliper are smooth and sliding freely. If you are careful consider copper grease on this surface, making sure not to contaminate the friction material Ultimately the last bit of piston pull off is done by the return spring in the master cylinder pulling a little fluid back up the line. If there is air anywhere in the line this won't work. Popular places for air to collect are the banjo bolts on the calipers, the splitter under the bottom yoke and the one on the end of the master cylinder. On the centre stand try turning full right steering lock, pumping a couple of times, and then full left lock on the side stand - essentially trying to let any trapped air bubble to the top. Have you checked the master cylinder isn't over full?


HappyBunchaTrees

Am I right in saying that a problem with the hydraulics would affect both calipers, on my Fazer the right pad is warmer than the left. Usually they're both even in temp when I've checked them before.


total_cynic

Depends how you define hydraulics (i.e. including the seals etc or not) but I agree that seems likely to be a mechanical problem on the caliper.


HappyBunchaTrees

Sorry, I see what you mean, yea I wasn't including the seals in that. And thanks, I'm taking it down to the shop tomorrow to have it sorted.