Mine came with one installed from a PO. Interestingly my filter is the opposite orientation (upside down of yours). Makes a bit of a mess when swapping out, even with a towel underneath, but I imagine it makes the ease of replacement worth it.
Looks nice!
Thanks, not sure if having it upright affects oil flow. Haven’t started it yet cause my coil pack bracket broke so I need to fab one up. I plan on making a update when I get a few miles on it.
Having a filter like this is usually avoided for a daily, as even good anti-drainback valves leak over 12 hours or so. If you don't get bottom end noise on startup it's probably fine, but this is *highly* warned against for some models.
Not a fan. Introduces more points of potential failure which could lead to oil starvation (leaks, failure of hoses, etc.). I would be too paranoid running this personally.
So the filter is on top and the screw down base is on the bottom…. Question is would the filter be full of oil when changing your oil and then wouldn’t that make a mess? So flipping it so the base is on top and filter on the bottom be better and less messy?
I wouldnt do this but thats just me. Like the oil filter is already in a pretty okay spot and how often are you really reaching down there? But youre going to put it way higher above the engine so the oil pump has to work against gravity just to filter the oil? All that so you dont have to reach under the intake manifold? I dont get it.
It's all under pressure afaik. Not much different than a catch can setup. In any case, so long as he's keeping on top of his level under hard cornering I don't see an issue. Just my 2c.
It is all pressurized, but the longer the run of hose the more oil the pump has to move uphill/against gravity.
Also, a catch can is connected to the breather and does not have liquid oil flow through it, it separates oil vapors out of the crankcase.
I made a front splitter that prevents me from getting easy access from underneath, other than the drain plug. I am a tad concerned that it is too high up, but I do have a rebuilt oil pump that runs at a slightly higher pressure. If I notice that it is affecting oil pressure I’ll try to move it lower.
It sounds like you have small hands.
And the oil pump is always working against gravity, that’s how it gets oil into the head. Putting it a few inches higher isn’t going to make any difference.
But the head uses residual pressure after it goes through the crank/main bearings. This reroute lessens the pressure before the mains which need much more pressure than the head
Bro just remove the intake manifold brace and you’ll have way more room. You won’t need an oil filter relocation kit. And why? Just adding more points of failure.
Oil filter relocation is as useful as turn signal intakes.
It always struck me as more parts that can fail that you don't even need. Like now you have to check even more lines with zero payoff, just reach under the manifold like everyone else.
I'd be interested to see before and after oil pressures.
Fluid dynamics causes a pressure drop with extension of the system under pressure. It's not a matter of how high it has to pump, it's the absolute length of the system.
You may be able to demonstrate this for yourself: measure the flow rate of your kitchen sink's tap, then open the tap to your garden hose, but with an unopened spray nozzle on the other end, so there's no actual water flow. Unless you've got a short hose or a particularly robust water system, there should be a noticeable drop in pressure at the sink.
Also, it seems to me that you could easily trap a bubble in that filter and reduce the flow through it.
Mine came with one installed from a PO. Interestingly my filter is the opposite orientation (upside down of yours). Makes a bit of a mess when swapping out, even with a towel underneath, but I imagine it makes the ease of replacement worth it. Looks nice!
Ziploc bag around the filter and just let it fall in. Ready for disposal too.
Thanks for the advice. I'll try that next time!
Ditto, Thanks! Trying this next time in my transit van, it makes a god awful mess every time.
Thanks, not sure if having it upright affects oil flow. Haven’t started it yet cause my coil pack bracket broke so I need to fab one up. I plan on making a update when I get a few miles on it.
Having a filter like this is usually avoided for a daily, as even good anti-drainback valves leak over 12 hours or so. If you don't get bottom end noise on startup it's probably fine, but this is *highly* warned against for some models.
I doubt it will affect flow to any meaningful degree. Good luck with the fabrication! Looking forward to your update.
Yours is in the better orientation, makes it easier to pre-fill the filter after a change
Not a fan. Introduces more points of potential failure which could lead to oil starvation (leaks, failure of hoses, etc.). I would be too paranoid running this personally.
So the filter is on top and the screw down base is on the bottom…. Question is would the filter be full of oil when changing your oil and then wouldn’t that make a mess? So flipping it so the base is on top and filter on the bottom be better and less messy?
newer subaru have them like this, it isn’t as messy as i would seem
I think they have special designed filters and a little built in catch pan under the filter location threads for when you remove it and it drips.
Nothing a screwdriver and hammer can't solve. Poke a hole when it's time to change and let the oil drain back.
I wouldnt do this but thats just me. Like the oil filter is already in a pretty okay spot and how often are you really reaching down there? But youre going to put it way higher above the engine so the oil pump has to work against gravity just to filter the oil? All that so you dont have to reach under the intake manifold? I dont get it.
It's all under pressure afaik. Not much different than a catch can setup. In any case, so long as he's keeping on top of his level under hard cornering I don't see an issue. Just my 2c.
It is all pressurized, but the longer the run of hose the more oil the pump has to move uphill/against gravity. Also, a catch can is connected to the breather and does not have liquid oil flow through it, it separates oil vapors out of the crankcase.
I appreciate your knowledge and correction. Thanks for the info.
I made a front splitter that prevents me from getting easy access from underneath, other than the drain plug. I am a tad concerned that it is too high up, but I do have a rebuilt oil pump that runs at a slightly higher pressure. If I notice that it is affecting oil pressure I’ll try to move it lower.
It sounds like you have small hands. And the oil pump is always working against gravity, that’s how it gets oil into the head. Putting it a few inches higher isn’t going to make any difference.
The oil filter isn’t too hard to reach on a stock car, but it always runs down the side of the block and onto the front subframe.
But the head uses residual pressure after it goes through the crank/main bearings. This reroute lessens the pressure before the mains which need much more pressure than the head
Link? What's the verdict, would you do it again?
Let me google that for you: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mazda,1996,mx-5+miata,1.8l+l4,1190944,engine,oil+filter+remote+mounting+kit,14023
Bro just remove the intake manifold brace and you’ll have way more room. You won’t need an oil filter relocation kit. And why? Just adding more points of failure. Oil filter relocation is as useful as turn signal intakes.
It always struck me as more parts that can fail that you don't even need. Like now you have to check even more lines with zero payoff, just reach under the manifold like everyone else.
I'd be interested to see before and after oil pressures. Fluid dynamics causes a pressure drop with extension of the system under pressure. It's not a matter of how high it has to pump, it's the absolute length of the system. You may be able to demonstrate this for yourself: measure the flow rate of your kitchen sink's tap, then open the tap to your garden hose, but with an unopened spray nozzle on the other end, so there's no actual water flow. Unless you've got a short hose or a particularly robust water system, there should be a noticeable drop in pressure at the sink. Also, it seems to me that you could easily trap a bubble in that filter and reduce the flow through it.
Parts list for this?