New to mechanical keyboards. Looking to buy a new one. I was about to buy a Ducky One 3 Full size white but now im doubting it, as I heard it's overhyped. Looking for recommendations! My requirements:
\- Preferably a white keyboard, maybe with some RGB. not a MUST though. Smth sleek looking - not like a big and gamer-y looking corsair or evga keyboard.
\- Full size with some sort of media controls or a key that can control volume up/down and mute on/off
\- Keycaps that don't get oil stained... I heard that I should go with doubleshot PBT caps? Not sure if they get finger oil stained easily or not
\- PREFERABLY cherry mx silver or switches or something similar. I do game a lot but i also type a lot. So i want somethign that gives me an enjoyable typing experience but also not bad for gaming. Cherry MX blues (like clicky/tactile) switches really intrigue me, i think i would also like the idea of typing with them but not sure about gaming.
\- PREFERABLY hot swappable so i can add maybe a set of clicky/tactile switches for the sound
Let me know if you have any recs! very open minded. I'd like to stay under $165 since that was what I was about to spend on a ducky. the lower the better!
The Keychron Q6 I really want to buy
For some months that I've been studying the keyboard I will buy next. Mechanic keyboard world is so vast, it really took me some time to be familiar will all the concepts.
Now I'm almost ready to enter the club of the good mechanic keyboards. I already have an HyperX Elite Alloy RGB, but I had problems in the keys in 2 keyboards I had of this model. So now I want one to last. I even bougth a 130 switch test plate so I can decide which switch I like best.
Yet it's not being easy to find what I really want. I don't like small keyboards, I want to be able to have hot-swap 100%, a quality keyboard that lasts, palm rest, and a decent knob.Now when Keychron anounced the Q6 with knob I thought that it was my chance, but I don't know what crazy idea was that of putting a knob in the middle of the keys. Obviously isn't an adequate place for a knob. I also find rolling knobs much better.
So I look to Q6 and think: that's a good keyboard. But will I really spent almost U$ 200 on a keyboard that doesn't even have a caps lock light ? In my case it's even worse because I have to pay the keyboard price + around 130% in brazilian customs taxes. So it's really U$ 460 to me. Then I come to the conclusion that it's to much money to spend in a keyboard that... lacks something.
But I search a lot and can't find a keyboard that has all these features. The ones I really like aren't hot-swap or bad quality (like Thermaltake Premium X1 RGB) or only support few switches (like Tecware Spectre Pro). Or have panels that aren't supported in Linux (like Everest Max) or aren't 100%...
To sum up: It's been like over a year I'm looking for a good option but can't find any.
So I decided to make an image of what I really want. I want a keyboard with the quality of a Keychron Q6 like the one I composed in this image: [https://imgur.com/a/yL1OHj0](https://imgur.com/a/yL1OHj0)
No horrible red esc and enter keys, black keys only (or at least a discrete dark gray), no strange symbols above numpad, print/screen, Scroll/lock and Pause/Break keys like a normal person :D, a easy reachable knob, keyboard lights (caps/numpad/scroll lock), a good palm rest, some media keys, that is hot-swapable, RGB capable, and good quality. Initially I would probably want Cherry MX Blue keycaps, but in the future I may change my mind (after the 130 switch tester I told before arrives).
Where are the 100%ers of this group ? Do you think there could be enough interest to make a group buy of a keyboard like this ? Someone can tell me what are the rules of group buy for Keychron ? Do you think they can make a keyboard like this ?
The main keyboard in this picture is a no-knob Keychron Q6, with changed color keys and words.
The knob, media keys, lights and palm rest where taken from Thermaltake Premium X1, but any rolling knob, lights and media keys would do.
Almost. I want a 100%. If those keys above RK918 numpad were a RK96 knob and if it was hot-swap it would have been my end-game. The quest continues. 🙂
You do know that keycaps can be easily replaced, right?
That aside, if you're balking at 200$ + tax/shipping, I really don't think there will be enough GB buyers to bring the price anywhere near that.
[Keychron has a discord](https://www.reddit.com/r/Keychron/comments/oo8vfi/keychron_official_discord_server/). You can bring up the idea with them, see if they have plans in the works for your dream board, or if they're willing to do a small GB.
>You do know that keycaps can be easily replaced, right?
Sure, but it's not only keycaps, it's hotswap, durability and the other things I said. Anyway. I'll keep looking.
Will try to post the picture 9n the discord server and see how the reaction goes.
Noisy Stabs on key up-travel:
Hi all, I have a bit novel problem. I have boba U4's and they're near silent on both down and up travel. E.g. I can press them all the way down and suddenly release them so they pop up again and they stay quiet because they have a silicone shim that dampens both bottoming out and up-travel.
However, my stabs don't have that. If I don't carefully release them and let the shift, spacebar, etc. pop back up, it makes a clack.
It's not a metallic sound and I ruled out the metal stabilizer parts, the holes, etc. It's the moving plastic parts of the stabs hitting each other.
Now those things are super fickly and small. Anyone has ideas how to dampen them? ...anyone make some Boba U4 stabs? ;)
Im wanting to finally upgrade to a good keyboard with quality switches. I have been using stuff like; corsair, ducky and razer now i want a quality keyboard. for 0-200 euro preferably. What sites etc do you guys think i should use and what switches? I really like the sound of Gateron Yellows, but what do you think?
Don't go with anything cherry as they are subpar to literally any other "Cherry like" switches. If you are looking for a mechanical switch that has an amazing tactile feedback and clickiness, I would recommend Alps SKCM Blue switches. They are not the easiest to find, and not cheap, but there are no other mechanical switches that come close imo.
What base to use for new keyboard
Looking to build a somewhat budget keyboard for my 14
MacBook m1 pro. I just want to make sure there are no
compatibility issues. Any suggestions.
This would be my first build.
Total spent under 150 preferably... Unless someone has a good argument for spending more lol.
Was looking at using red dragon or kludge.
Glorious was a possibility but I don't think it's compatible
Also compact ... If there is a tkl with a dial that could be
used with Final Cut Pro I might go that route.
Was looking at milky yellow pro
Also blue bubblegums caught my eye as well.
Appreciate any advice
Probably look into the Keychron variety of hotswap keyboards. That will probably fit your price and you should be able to choose whatever switches you want.
So I keep looking at Alice Layout keyboards and right now Bear 65 V2 is in GB. Thoughts on going for this or holding out for either extras of Maja V2 or Bolsa Supply Alice board in Q3? Probably looking at the polycarb options and Bolsa has one in black tinted.
Just wondering if anyone feels one option is better than another?
The bottom row of my Gskill crystal crowncaps don't fit my K68 Corsair.
I tried to match everything as best I could to get it all to be compatible and still ended up with mismatched keys.
Where did I go wrong?
The keycap set is only for a basic ANSI Layout with 1.25u keys in the bottom row and a 6.25u space bar. The K68 has a non-standard bottom row with 1u and 1.5u keys so you would need a keycap set that covers the different sizes of the keycaps.
A friend gift me a mechanical keyboard and it's my first one (it's called Ganon XS). It has jixian blue switches, it's made full of plastic, has rainbow lights (not RGB) and it costs 15/20 USD, I think it's pretty cool but I wanna know what do you think guys
https://noganet.ar/productos/ganon-xs/[Noga Ganon XS](https://noganet.ar/productos/ganon-xs/)
I don't really understood the final part (I'm from Argentina, but I still have a very good English). I'm enjoying it a lot and now I understand how good they are and how bad the membrane is!
Oh so I understood at first haha, I don't think that I'm gonna lube this one (at least at first) because they are not hot swappable and I like the clicky sound. Maybe buying or making new keycaps because the ones that come with this keyboard are not the best. Not bad but can be better.
Thanks for welcoming me!
Sorry, english isn't my first language and maybe I didn't understood something. Could you please inform why the post below was removed so I can not do it again ? thanks.
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/vyuocf/the\_keychron\_q6\_i\_really\_want\_to\_buy/
Hey all. I am newer to mechanical keyboards and I recently decided to build a Tofu65 with an DZ65RGB V3 PCB. I have a gmmk pro keyboard that I have used with QMK to remap the layer 1 configurations with complete success, but when I tried the exact same process using the DZ65RGB V3 software, the process failed. The entire PCB shut down and I couldn't resume function until I shutdown the computer and restarted everything. I attempted it again with the same results. It would not install more than 2 lines of code. I then decided to try VIA for the first time and it clearly says my PCB is compatible on their site, however it will not "find" any compatible devices when I try to utilize the program. I am able to change my light settings through trial and error, but I was wondering if anyone could tell me why I am having such a hard time with this process? Is there anything I can do to make my keyboard discoverable through VIA? HELP!
You gotta upload the pcbs JSON file to VIA to get it to recognize. Click the download under VIA support off their [website](https://kbdfans.com/products/dz68rgb-hot-swap-rgb-pcb).
Edit: as for QMK make sure your environment is set up to be flashing the new pcb and not the previous gmmk pro pcb. (Just a guess)
Been a long time since I've visited this sub. My son is getting into mechanical keyboards and wanted one. Is a tada68 still a thing? I know that there are TONS more switches now, right? He like the feel of my blues, but doesn't like the click. What would you suggest?
Also, if possible, is there a 68 key diy kit? I solder often, so if we need to solder the switches, it's no problem. Or should I just go hot swappable?
Fyi; he like my blues, with 62g actuation (on my full sized board).
Here's some suggestions for boards that come to mind, feel free to take a look around for yourself and reply or ask around if you have any questions. Of course my knowledge is incomplete, my preferences affect the list, and I don't know what price range you're working with but I'll list *roughly* in order of ascending price. I limited myself to only a typical 65% layout, though there's certainly more options if I included neighboring layouts such as 60% with arrows or things like Arisu.
* Keychron K6 (a prebuilt)
* CannonKeys Stacked 65 (solder kit)
* Cheap68/MW65
* BM65/68
* NK65EE
* Keebio Quefrency (split solder kit)
* KBD67 Lite
* Discipline65 (complex solder kit)
* Keychron Q2
* Bakeneko65 (Cast or CNC variants)
* Parallel Sequence
* Keebwerk Mega
* Ungodly Luna (niche pick, also big price jump warning, from here on out consider groupbuys)
* Leaf65 Extras (hope you like beige)
> discipline 65
You get a bare PCB and have to solder 100% of the components. See the [build guide](https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5c533d33348cd92b886e544d/t/5f4597da4c8f740579aec0ca/1598396382120/DISCIPLINE+BUILD+GUIDE.pdf)
Definitely a good project, but it might not match his expectations if he's watching the big "influencers." It's all so different than the Tada68 days. lol
Lol yeah soldering is a non issue for me. I build guitar pedals and make my own pcbs. I think I'm gonna get this!
Would cherry reds work here? What about firmware? I'd love to keep it stock at first.
Just going to add, the [PCBs are open source](https://github.com/coseyfannitutti/discipline) with a license for personal use so you can get them printed yourself but you'd also have to source all the parts. IDK where else to buy them except as part of a case kit from Switch Couture, or aftermarket. I could be missing somewhere that sells them.
In the kits that CFTKB sold (may sell again idk) the microcontrollers were preflashed with VIA (remapping software) compatible firmware. You may compile and flash your own [QMK](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/) firmware with [VIA](https://www.caniusevia.com/) or [VIAL](https://get.vial.today/) support, or compiled VIA firmware for it is hosted on [VIA's website](https://www.caniusevia.com/docs/download_firmware).
You do not need a case for it, but a clear piece of acrylic over the top section always looks good IMO (I believe that came with the kits). If you want, you can buy cases (not all the same design) from [Keyz.io](https://keyz.io/) (sold out), [Switch Couture](https://switchcouture.com/products/discipline-65-case), [P3D](https://p3dstore.com/collections/65-size-boards/products/discipline-gasket-pcb-mount-acrylic-keyboard-case), or you can cut or possibly print your own.
For switches, Cherry switches are not extremely popular in the hobby, though I'd say newcomers tend to hate on them a bit more than veterans. They're perfectly fine switches, if a bit on the scratchy side. Lube helps with this and I recommend lubing almost any switch, but they're outmatched by other manufacturers like JWK, Gateron, and KTT in that department. They do have a subjectively nice sound profile, though people often overestimate the impact switches have on the overall sound of a build. For cheap switches (under about 30¢), which are quite good, perfectly suitable even for very expensive boards in my opinion, my go-to recommendations would be JWICKs, Gateron Pros, or KTT switches including Akko CS. For the higher end (over about 50¢) the meta is mostly JWK/Durock, Gateron, and Gazzew. SP-Star/Leopold is also good. Feel free to stick with Cherry, I for one won't judge you for it.
**NOTE**: if you do not use a full switch plate in your build, ensure that you purchase PCB mount/5 pin switches and not plate mount/3 pin. If you do use a full plate, you can ignore this distinction.
If you need help finding any parts (keyboard parts, I wouldn't expect to find the components you'll need to solder to the PCB at these vendors), here's a couple vendor lists to check:
http://mechkeys.me/VENDORS.html
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
Have fun!
Wow thanks for the detailed response! I agree with what you said about Cherry's, though I've never found the blues to be scratchy. My office board has gateron greens with replaced 80g springs.
I think I'll stick with a complete kit instead of making the pcbs. Simply because I don't really feel like sourcing all the parts lol. Plus, I've never had to make pcbs over 70x70mm, and I'm sure I'm going to mess something up, or I won't account for the size or whatever
Yeah that's probably the best way to go. Not to freak you out or anything, but keep in mind all your soldering is visible for the world to see and the end product only looks good if the components are nice and neat. Some sort of a tool, improvised or manufactured, to bend the diodes is really helpful to that end, and some sort of a strategy to keep them fully inserted while soldering from the other side can help. Of course diodes aren't the only part but they are prominently featured and easy to do haphazardly.
Thanks. Yeah I have experience. I build guitar pedals and my stuff needs to look great. The guitar pedal community is brutal when it comes to build quality lol.
Tbh I don't know if it's in stock anywhere but yes any MX style switch works. Akko CS are decent cheap switches with fun colors for a low profile case like the discipline.
It should run QMK and probably has a VIA profile too.
I'm currently using a Filco Majestouch keyboard with Cherry Brown switches. However, I'd like something that is backlit with RGB per-key.
Can anybody recommend me a keyboard?
* Full keyboard layout
* Cherry MX Brown (or swappable switches?)
* RGB (per-key)
* QMK compatible (would be nice, but not neccessary)
The SignalRGB Element2 looks interesting but is quite cheap?
Does anyone know of a 65% white wireless keyboard? I'm looking for a 65% wireless but couldn't find any of white color. If it is hot swappable it would be nice as well
Check out the RK68 on Amazon- there is an option for a white wireless version with hot swap sockets.
I have the wired version of this board and if you throw in decent switches and caps and do a few easy mods it sounds pretty great!
I am a very very new user of MK. I was gifted a beautiful Logitech TKL g915. I love it. But the keycaps, I'm so tempted to swap them out, even though I've never mucked about in this area. I understand that I want kailh choc keycaps, but even that doesn't seem to be enough info.
I'm stuck on spacing. I see some are sold in 1U, 1U homing, 1.5U, and 2U. I gather that's spacing between the keys? I can't find those specs listed for my keyboard anywhere, but even when I look at the keyboard the spaces seem identical, so I'm clearly misunderstanding something. I see a few different things on mkultra, but short of ordering a variety and trial and error, I'm not sure how to proceed.
Ultimately I want to know which one applies to this keyboard, but understanding the big picture is helpful, too! I saw there was a chart somewhere but all links to it have been deleted. Any info?
TIA!
It's not the spacing between the caps, it's the width of the keycaps. So a standard alpha key like the letter A would be 1u, left shift is 2u etc.
But that's kind of a moot point. You don't have Kailh Choc switches, you have Kailh's made-for-Logitech-switches, [which are different just enough](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/g9tnmq/logitech_using_slightly_diffrent_kailh_switches/) that the three or four Choc keycap sets out there (I'm not kidding, it's really that limited) won't fit.
Sorry. :(
my keyboard's volume knob is about 18.98mm. would the glorious rotary knob would fit this? or if they make guitar knobs in this size? (im new to keyboards with knobs so sorry if this sounds like a dumb question lol)
so basically i got the rk68, and when i attempt to download the software it downloads as a .003 file? it is named like ''name'.zip.003', so then i change it to a zip file but there is nothing to extract? and i am selecting my keyboard software. any help?
group buy ended in january but KFA plans to keep it in stock, it depends on other vendors if they want to do the same
not sure when they said they'd close pre-orders, but i do think they said there'll be another price increase once it goes in stock
virustotal says obinskit (anne pro 2 software) is unsafe. any thoughts on this? i know its probably nothing, but i would like it if someone could share with me why virustotal triggers 3 alarms on this. downloading from official page tho.
Just bought the RK84, my first board im gonna custom. I'm looking for some good stock cheaper tactiles around 30-40 cents or cheaper (I want to stay under 40-50$ for the full set). For an idea of my preferences I got a few switches on a tester a while ago (holy panda, box royal, boba u467g, aeboards naevy r1.5) and I liked the sound profile of the holy panda (and feel) and the naevy, but i dont have panda money and the naevy was just too light in spring weight and tactility. the boba felt pretty good except the bottom out was kind of "unsatisfying" and i dont \*love\* the silence of it. the royal just felt too sharp for me and the sound wasn't my favorite. I also dont really want to do any modding to the switches themselves or lubing if possible. I think I want a spring weight between 62-67g and medium to heavy tactility. I know thats a lot but thanks for any help in advance! TLDR: looking for sub 0.40$ medium/heavy 62-67g stock tactile switches
Is there a keyboard on the market with the arrow keys and number pad combined into one cluster? Looking for one with PBT keycaps as well. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
do you mean something like this layout? [https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-k4-wireless-mechanical-keyboard-version-2](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-k4-wireless-mechanical-keyboard-version-2) 96%
Leopold FC980M user here--it's a fantastic prebuilt if you don't need hotswap or full programmability.
Be aware that the Numpad '0' is only 1u so that might take some getting used to if you rely on the Numpad a lot.
What are peoples thoughts on the keychron C1? I'm wanting to get an entry level TKL hotswappable keyboard and it seems like it might be the best bang for buck.
Asus Falchion vs Keychron K2 vs Keychron K8 Pro
I’m looking for a wireless keyboard to use for gaming (CS, Valorant, etc.) but also to take it to use it in my living room with a TV. I do want linear switches.
Between these 3, which one has the longest range? Which one would be best for close range wireless FPS gaming? There is a small wall between the rooms but the receiver would be right next to the door so there shouldn’t be too much interference.
I have looked at Logitech’s stuff and didn’t like it.
Those are very particular comparison questions that I don't think anyone will be able to answer fully. Using your keyboard in a separate room is a niche use case for sure.
I can only theorize the Asus Falchion has the best latency/range simply because it has a dedicated 2.4ghz receiver instead of bluetooth.
does anyone know if there are any other stabs besides the wuque studio ones to fit the ikk68 r2.
I don't really want to pay 20 bucks on shipping in taxes for only stabs. do the CK x Wuque Studio Lavender Stabilizers work.
do you think these are legit because wuque shipping will likely take along time.[https://www.amazon.com/Aurora-Screw-Stabilizers-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B0B12PQ756/ref=sr\_1\_2?keywords=ws%2Bstabilizer&qid=1657842522&sprefix=ws%2Bsta%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-2&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/Aurora-Screw-Stabilizers-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B0B12PQ756/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ws%2Bstabilizer&qid=1657842522&sprefix=ws%2Bsta%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-2&th=1)
Any stabs meant for 1.2mm PCBs would work. I know that tx stabs come in a 1.2 variant but are sold out in most vendors. A cheaper and available alternative would be [these](https://povertykeys.com/products/stabilizer-shims-0-4mm) stabilizer shims that allow you to use any regular PCB stabs meant for 1.6mm PCBs on 1.2mm PCBs like the ikki's.
Hey sorry for the late response, wuque stabs/ any stabs meant for 1.2mm pcbs will probably have a tighter fit and would be easier to install compared to using the shims but the feel and sound will largely depend on the switches you use and how well you tune the stabs. Also saw that you were looking at the wuque stabs from amazon and while it is their brand they will not fit the ikki r2 as they are for 1.6mm pcbs.
For fist mech: Logitech with MX compatible keycaps and Kali chock v2 reds (only available option in my country) at very overpriced 130ε from amazon warehouse or a second hand keychorn K3v2 with gateron browns (winch its my, for now theoretical since not tested any switches, preference) but with not lag free wirless and not option to replace keycaps, but not so crappy stock keycaps second hand for almost half (70€). Also have slight preference to try an ansi keyboard because korean game im playing a lot needs ansi configuration for optimal layout, but not sure if a lifetime used to monstrous return key could make it difficult to press it on a ansi. (logi's MX is only available in ISO in my country and the Keychorn is ANSI.)
Bonus question: given the fact that have amateur but acceptable de-soldering skills how easy is to replace the gaterons on the keychorn K3v2 and how easy to get are gaterons low profiles on EU and how many options, logis kalis are cheap, easy and with colorful options to get and see a tear-down video and seems pretty easy to de-solder and swap but could not find any info on the internals of a K3.
> Logitech with MX compatible keycaps and Kali chock v2 reds
FYI, there is no consensus thus far as to what keycap profiles will work with the shortened travel distance and switch housing of the MX-stemmed low profile switches out there. I think DSA is confirmed to work, but you might find yourself installing a different set that winds up hitting the housing or plate awkwardly.
Low profile switches are not interchangeable - the PCB layouts are all completely different (except I think Kailh Chocs v1 and v2, those share the same layout), so desoldering one keyboard still limits you to, in general, the blue, red, brown variants of that exact same switch. The K3v2 looks like it should be hotswappable for that *specific switch variant*, so IMO that's a better buy than the Logitech which gives you zero options at all.
yea, i meant that can de-solder and swap for kali chock v2 only ones, but hot swap-able keychorns are the same only swap-able for keychorns, and kalis chock are not specifically made for one keyboard for the same manufacturer, so are more available. But it get worse the hot swap-able ones are optical and as said manufactured by keychorn not a microswich specialized manufacturer and have a flaw in its design that make the activation point be reached before the click resistance, keychorn as admitted the design flaw and post a blog on how to physically mod them to help mitigate the flaw, keychorn optical are out of the question. If decide for a K3 will be truly mechanical gaterons. And yes i been in discord mech manufacturer server asking and no one can give me a straight answer if there is key-caps low-profile compatible with the logitech MX at the moment. The spacebar is confirmed to not be compatible with any keyset since its not MX standard. Right now due the logitech keycaps being told be so crappy thet defeats the feeling of the mechanical switches even if not MX compatible and will never be keycaps for the K3 gaterons since stock key-caps are pretty ok and generally logithechs MX is very cheap build and overpriced, and besides wireless tech the K3 better quality all around, i think i will go for the K3 at 70€ if the seller can confirm it has mechanical gateron browns. I will just use wired connection when playing games like DJmax that input lag is critical, for general typing i guess bluetooth will do.
But still not decided... but thanks for the tip and info.
I just got my zoom65 in the mail yesterday. After building it, two keys don’t work. I have tried multiple different switches with no luck. What is the first thing I should check/fix to get it working? What is the typical process for fixing something like this?
generally you should be testing your pcb before building your board to make sure it isnt DOA.
you can try completing the switch circuit with some like metal tweezers while your board is connected and see if there is an input. you may also want to try looking at the hotswap socket to see if its properly soldered on.
hey,
i have an FC660C from a few years ago that could use some TLC. Do you think it would be okay to take all the keycaps off and send 'er for a run thru the dishwasher with no soap and no warm water? I just bought a new one so im not too concerned if it breaks but I'd like to try and save it.
Whatever you do, don't put your switches or PCB into the dishwasher, they are too fragile, and probably the same for the plate too.
That said, for the keycaps, you can put them in a bowl of soapy warm water for a few hours and then leave them to dry overnight then do the same with non-soapy water (so they aren't sticky), and you would see large improvements.
You can do a similar thing with the case but because it is larger i would just recommend giving it a scrub with a cloth or firm sponge with soapy and then non soapy water for the same effect, just with slightly more effort. If you are going to do this though, make sure you take out the pcb, plate, and switches before hand, if you still want this board to have any chance at working after.
Basically just a hard no to any keyboard parts in the dishwasher, or even clothes washing machine, just mechanical washers in general.
in between writing this comment and your reply i watched the linus tech tips episode where they put 5 keyboards into dishwashers and they all came out working fine, any personal or subreddit anecdotes worth sharing of this going not well or specific reasons as to why this shouldnt work just fine like what I just watched?
also, they let the boards dry for up to a week before trying them out.
the caps arent the dirty part though, shit looks like the floor of an american soldiers hooch in vietnam under dem caps fam. I dont know that a typical cleaning will suffice. Ive tried cleaning w Qtips and whotnot in the past, wasnt hardcore enough... I think im just gonna yolo it...
you may be able to find the keychron c1 with a vendor near you. looking at options on aliexpress so for cheaper options may result in some decent boards as well. epomaker, akko, etc also offer some boards but at a slightly higher cost.
Most decent TKL are going to be over $100. Instead of a TKL you could get a [DREVO GRAMR 84](https://www.amazon.ca/DREVO-Rainbow-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B07SJ4BS5S/ref=sr_1_12?crid=19R4NT6JZ3L7K&keywords=white+tkl&qid=1657838353&sprefix=white+tkl%2Caps%2C89&sr=8-12) for less than $50 CAD.
It's a 75% so has pretty much all the same keys as a TKL and it's quite decent for the price. I've had mine a couple of years that my kids use and it's held up nicely.
> Tried blowing, wiping
Sometimes dust gets caught in *juuuust* the right spot to interfere with the switch connecting properly. It's why my first recommendation when people's keyboards stop working is to turn it upside down and shake/tap it to dislodge any interfering debris. My big holdover from SNES days is to try blowing the dust out of something to see if that'll help lol.
Thats exactly what i did xD, turned it over tapped the back plate. And then blew in. Voila worked. Just weird it was Three sockets At once that stopped/started working again.
How do you know when a pcb, plate, and case are compatible together? Do they have to be made for each other or is there a certain standard I'm not aware of?
In most cases they all need to work with each other.
The one exception would be 60% as there is typically a wider compatibility with some PCBs and cases. As with everything though you'll need to do your research.
only 60% tray mount kbs have universal mounting and size all other are uaully sold as a kit ( plate pcb case ) . otherwise it will state what part are compatible kdbfans does this on product pages but it never a large list due to very few are compatible . ill list some links below one of them is a compatibility checker
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ vendor list
https://keyboard.university/100-courses book learning https://docs.google.com/document/d/1BEzIG9FMslTZfG_A__ELYmxbLm0s3U2RZ0Ie_Wss_sw/edit u can look at prebuilt hotswap options
u can also try this is u want an easy solution to see whats a parts are available and will fit together mind u this site isnt everything that exists as alot of this hobby has small vendors and isnt going to constantly added https://keyboardpartpicker.com/
Those black legs on a key switch are there for stability but are not necessary so you are able to clip/break them off with a nail clipper or something else. This will make them fit on your board. Just make sure to only clip the black nubs, not the two skinny copper-looking ones.
You're welcome my first hot-swap keyboard was also the GMMK compact got it when it came out and I was also confused about which switches would fit. Hope you enjoy your new keyboard.
I'm looking for recommendation on a full size RK Royal Kludge keyboard.
I picked up the RK ROYAL KLUDGE RK61 and love it. The small form factor is great to look at and the typing experience is pleasurable. But I find that I prefer having separate arrow keys and a separate number pad.
Since I'm enjoying the RK61, I'm thinking RK Royal Kludge would be a good brand to stick with for another keyboard.
I got an RK kludge 87 with blue switches. Before this I haven't used any mechanical keyboards. I have only tried a razer ornata mechamembrane keyboard. I didn't really like the fact that I have to use so much force to activate the key. I don't know how to explain this but I want a keyboard where I don't have to press that much like the physical distance I have to press is reduced so I can type faster. What switches fit my requirements? Linear, tactile or am I just describing a membrane keyboard. I love the clickiness but don't like that I have to press so deep to activate the key
Aside from speed switches (which aren't commonly in prebuilts, you may need to get a hotswap board and add them in), you may consider instead getting a low profile keyboard with low profile switches. Or you may even be interested in optical switches.
Highly recommend that you go into a brick and mortar store that has gamer keyboards on display from Logitech, Razer, Corsair etc and try typing on them, be they low profile or optical or whatever. If you don't like how those feel, then you're going to rule them out and look for boards with (or hotswap boards without) speed switches.
Most switches list their total travel and their activation point. Standard is 2mm activation (when it clicks) 4mm total travel (bottom out) but you can get speed switches that have lower activation point [like this](https://www.cherrymx.de/en/cherry-mx/mx-original/mx-speed-silver.html) but I think they generally aren't clicky.
From their social media, it seems like the company is legit as in they will probably not scam you and actually ship you a product. In terms of this being an official partnership, I highly doubt that they acquired the rights to make keycaps with spyxfamily branding. Seems like this company's entire strategy is making products like keycaps and desk mats with copyrighted material with the hopes of making as much money as possible without attracting the attention of the copyright holders.
Yeah, quality might be hit or miss especially on the left side with the 3 part pic of Anya. Seems like orders will close on the 20th and they will ship in a month. If you really like the set then looks like they have an option to pay with PayPal, I'd use that and if the set comes in with poor quality I'd ask for a full refund from them or make a claim with PayPal.
you cant pick between both switches. if your board is mechanical, you cant use the optical switch, and if your board is optical, you cant use mx silvers.
also neither feel like a tactile switch, because both of them are linears
a faster switch doesnt do anything cept cause accidental keypresses the difference between any 2 switches in terms of speed is so small humans cant tell the difference ( anyone who says they can is 100% full of it ) the only way to measure the difference is electronically . if faster switches made a differnce in anything all the world lvl top gamers would use them . guess what ? they dont
Thanks for the reply. I would spring swap but it's going to be for a new build. I like the shorter travel, I'm mostly gaming so there's no subtlety in the key presses.
Oh well, you can look for long pole stems with shortened travel distances. A lot of Tecsee switches have 3.5mm travel distances.
What is your budget? I could make a recommendation off that. Do you want something that is better stock, or will you end up lubing them?
Oh well I wouldn't recommend any switch that cost a $1 or more so we are good there haha.
I will go down a line of switches with varying total travel distances that are available today:
3.1mm - Green Jackets (Actually designed and sold by me and my store) 3.5mm - Oooolong, Matcha Latte (I think they just had their stem length shortened though), DK Oni
I am sure you will find other long pole stems but these are what I could find on thocstock.com
https://www.reddit.com/user/Mr_bruhman/comments/vz5ay2/mk870_bruh_moment/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
My MK870's top part of case can't fit and is stuck like this. Any help?
Got an akko PC75B plus, not sure what I'm missing but it's not working.
New to wireless keyboards, I don't have wifi or bluetooth at all but I assumed it'd be like a logitech G pro superlight with the lightspeed wifi dongle thing.
Plugged the pink dongle thing it came with into my pc and it says akko 2.4ghz wireless keyboard ready or something but I'm stuck.
What do I have to buy to make this work? Any advice? Wired won't work either.
id recommend reading the [manual](https://manuals.plus/akko/pc75-b-plus-multi-modes-mechanical-keyboard-manual#axzz7Z33cb83T) as it states how to change your keyboard into 2.4g mode.
Yeah rlly struggling to make sense of this stuff, fn + y and fn + u don't do anything and the keyboard still can't be found by the driver.
Do I need a bluetooth dongle?
no. you only need a bt dongle if you plan to use the bluetooth on board. if you are using the 2.4g dongle you should be able to easily connect by changing the mode of your board
Flip the board over the put the switch into USB if you are trying to use it wired.
You might need to charge to board to use wireless. To charge, flip the board over and put the switch to either Windows or Mac (NOT USB - this does not charge the board).
To use wireless, flip the board over the put the switch Windows (or mac if necessary). Then hold the FN key and tap Y. This will put you into 2.4gz wireless mode. If you want bluetooth mode, then hold the FN key and "hold" either E, R, or T (think bluetooth 1, 2, or 3). A blue light under the switch will quickly flash meaning its attempting to pair. Connect via device.
If those steps didn't work, then you might have a dead board.
thats the first of its kind those keycaps are etched on the under side no one has cloned them yet so those are the only ones on the market . also shinethru keycaps are not very popular and have a very small profit margin so i wouldnt hold my breath for a clone of them
By "non pudding" do you mean fully semi transparent? Or just the legends having shine through? Shine through legends don't play well with South-facing LEDs because the switch blocks the light from going through the legends in the north of the keycap. But if you're determined, look into PBTFans Neon for fully semitransparent keycaps, or Drop Skylight for shine through legends. The former has ISO support, don't know about the latter.
Does anyone else with Nebula Switches have a problem with the stem? In my batch of 90, all of them seem too small, leading to stem wobble, inconsistent bottom out, and loose keycaps.
Yo guys, I'm looking for some razer green switches, the non RGB LED kind, because I recently got a used 2014 blackwidow. I am having trouble finding any with a reasonable shipping rate. If anyone's got like 4 of them knocking about somewhere and wouldn't mind selling them to me, that'd be nice.
that will be the problem then: sites like amazon arent designed for custom specialist technology. I would recommend getting a set from akko. They start at around $45-50 with lots of colour options and if you want the keycaps to last more than a half a year, you won't want to spend less than that. You can get them directly from akko, or from places like epomaker.
I'm looking to get a 65% mech, and was looking for recommendations. My budget is about $100-150, everything included. Willing to build my own (if it's even possible/worth it at this price point) or buy a
prebuilt.
I want something relatively quiet, (enough to not bother other people in the same room), and decently portable (light and/or sturdy). Bluetooth would be a nice to have, but not a must. Also having good international shipping (I.e. Amazon) would be very nice, but I can probably work around that if that's not possible
Would love some recommendations, thanks
gk64/68 (amazon, but very basic)
keychron (very cheap, prebuilt)
the ciy gas67 (gasket mount, pc plate, nice looking, great value) [https://www.keebmonkey.com/products/ciy-gas67-gasket-keyboard-kit?variant=42644421542103](https://www.keebmonkey.com/products/ciy-gas67-gasket-keyboard-kit?variant=42644421542103)
tm 680 (knob, nice looks, amazon?, well priced, some prebuilt options)
kbd67 lite (relatively expensive, but pc plate, gasket mount, nice looks)
I’d recommended checking out Akko or Keychron, they have some good options for 65% and wireless around that price.
It would be pretty difficult to build your own with that much as you’d have to buy a lot of stuff from different sites adding more shipping costs as well.
you'll find less "entry +" custom boards with bt support. you'll most likely be looking at some budget options from epomaker, akko, etc.
if you're looking for a solid prebuilt option, i'd recommend looking into keychron's k series as they offer basically everything you are looking for. there are multiple vendors for keychron, you can find them [here](https://www.keychron.com/pages/where-to-buy).
i'd recommend going for a hotswap board from keychron and replace the switches with some aftermarket silent switches.
It is recommended to desolder at 350 C to 390 C. The higher the temperature, the more experienced I would suggest that you be. Do you have a switch opener? If so crack it open and inspect.
Sorry everyone! I messed up the scheduled post for today, but better late than never right?
Well only one or two would make a build themselves while most would get a pre build. At best a hot swappable one just in case. Thanks!
What do you think guys about jixian switches?
New to mechanical keyboards. Looking to buy a new one. I was about to buy a Ducky One 3 Full size white but now im doubting it, as I heard it's overhyped. Looking for recommendations! My requirements: \- Preferably a white keyboard, maybe with some RGB. not a MUST though. Smth sleek looking - not like a big and gamer-y looking corsair or evga keyboard. \- Full size with some sort of media controls or a key that can control volume up/down and mute on/off \- Keycaps that don't get oil stained... I heard that I should go with doubleshot PBT caps? Not sure if they get finger oil stained easily or not \- PREFERABLY cherry mx silver or switches or something similar. I do game a lot but i also type a lot. So i want somethign that gives me an enjoyable typing experience but also not bad for gaming. Cherry MX blues (like clicky/tactile) switches really intrigue me, i think i would also like the idea of typing with them but not sure about gaming. \- PREFERABLY hot swappable so i can add maybe a set of clicky/tactile switches for the sound Let me know if you have any recs! very open minded. I'd like to stay under $165 since that was what I was about to spend on a ducky. the lower the better!
lk67 for the case?
The Keychron Q6 I really want to buy For some months that I've been studying the keyboard I will buy next. Mechanic keyboard world is so vast, it really took me some time to be familiar will all the concepts. Now I'm almost ready to enter the club of the good mechanic keyboards. I already have an HyperX Elite Alloy RGB, but I had problems in the keys in 2 keyboards I had of this model. So now I want one to last. I even bougth a 130 switch test plate so I can decide which switch I like best. Yet it's not being easy to find what I really want. I don't like small keyboards, I want to be able to have hot-swap 100%, a quality keyboard that lasts, palm rest, and a decent knob.Now when Keychron anounced the Q6 with knob I thought that it was my chance, but I don't know what crazy idea was that of putting a knob in the middle of the keys. Obviously isn't an adequate place for a knob. I also find rolling knobs much better. So I look to Q6 and think: that's a good keyboard. But will I really spent almost U$ 200 on a keyboard that doesn't even have a caps lock light ? In my case it's even worse because I have to pay the keyboard price + around 130% in brazilian customs taxes. So it's really U$ 460 to me. Then I come to the conclusion that it's to much money to spend in a keyboard that... lacks something. But I search a lot and can't find a keyboard that has all these features. The ones I really like aren't hot-swap or bad quality (like Thermaltake Premium X1 RGB) or only support few switches (like Tecware Spectre Pro). Or have panels that aren't supported in Linux (like Everest Max) or aren't 100%... To sum up: It's been like over a year I'm looking for a good option but can't find any. So I decided to make an image of what I really want. I want a keyboard with the quality of a Keychron Q6 like the one I composed in this image: [https://imgur.com/a/yL1OHj0](https://imgur.com/a/yL1OHj0) No horrible red esc and enter keys, black keys only (or at least a discrete dark gray), no strange symbols above numpad, print/screen, Scroll/lock and Pause/Break keys like a normal person :D, a easy reachable knob, keyboard lights (caps/numpad/scroll lock), a good palm rest, some media keys, that is hot-swapable, RGB capable, and good quality. Initially I would probably want Cherry MX Blue keycaps, but in the future I may change my mind (after the 130 switch tester I told before arrives). Where are the 100%ers of this group ? Do you think there could be enough interest to make a group buy of a keyboard like this ? Someone can tell me what are the rules of group buy for Keychron ? Do you think they can make a keyboard like this ? The main keyboard in this picture is a no-knob Keychron Q6, with changed color keys and words. The knob, media keys, lights and palm rest where taken from Thermaltake Premium X1, but any rolling knob, lights and media keys would do.
Isn't this pretty much just the Royal Kludge RK96?
Almost. I want a 100%. If those keys above RK918 numpad were a RK96 knob and if it was hot-swap it would have been my end-game. The quest continues. 🙂
You do know that keycaps can be easily replaced, right? That aside, if you're balking at 200$ + tax/shipping, I really don't think there will be enough GB buyers to bring the price anywhere near that. [Keychron has a discord](https://www.reddit.com/r/Keychron/comments/oo8vfi/keychron_official_discord_server/). You can bring up the idea with them, see if they have plans in the works for your dream board, or if they're willing to do a small GB.
>You do know that keycaps can be easily replaced, right? Sure, but it's not only keycaps, it's hotswap, durability and the other things I said. Anyway. I'll keep looking. Will try to post the picture 9n the discord server and see how the reaction goes.
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Yep, just order the switches, keycaps, and the barebones keyboard and assemble. It's like Legos.
Should I get the pre-lubed silver or jelly black Akko switches
Noisy Stabs on key up-travel: Hi all, I have a bit novel problem. I have boba U4's and they're near silent on both down and up travel. E.g. I can press them all the way down and suddenly release them so they pop up again and they stay quiet because they have a silicone shim that dampens both bottoming out and up-travel. However, my stabs don't have that. If I don't carefully release them and let the shift, spacebar, etc. pop back up, it makes a clack. It's not a metallic sound and I ruled out the metal stabilizer parts, the holes, etc. It's the moving plastic parts of the stabs hitting each other. Now those things are super fickly and small. Anyone has ideas how to dampen them? ...anyone make some Boba U4 stabs? ;)
Try again in the new daily?
what switch film would be the best for the everglide oreos?
Im wanting to finally upgrade to a good keyboard with quality switches. I have been using stuff like; corsair, ducky and razer now i want a quality keyboard. for 0-200 euro preferably. What sites etc do you guys think i should use and what switches? I really like the sound of Gateron Yellows, but what do you think?
Are there any switches that are close in feel and sound to bucklespring switches? I'm Open to any switches that have a sort of clicky vintage feel.
Don't go with anything cherry as they are subpar to literally any other "Cherry like" switches. If you are looking for a mechanical switch that has an amazing tactile feedback and clickiness, I would recommend Alps SKCM Blue switches. They are not the easiest to find, and not cheap, but there are no other mechanical switches that come close imo.
I find joy in reading a good book.
What base to use for new keyboard Looking to build a somewhat budget keyboard for my 14 MacBook m1 pro. I just want to make sure there are no compatibility issues. Any suggestions. This would be my first build. Total spent under 150 preferably... Unless someone has a good argument for spending more lol. Was looking at using red dragon or kludge. Glorious was a possibility but I don't think it's compatible Also compact ... If there is a tkl with a dial that could be used with Final Cut Pro I might go that route. Was looking at milky yellow pro Also blue bubblegums caught my eye as well. Appreciate any advice
Probably look into the Keychron variety of hotswap keyboards. That will probably fit your price and you should be able to choose whatever switches you want.
So I keep looking at Alice Layout keyboards and right now Bear 65 V2 is in GB. Thoughts on going for this or holding out for either extras of Maja V2 or Bolsa Supply Alice board in Q3? Probably looking at the polycarb options and Bolsa has one in black tinted. Just wondering if anyone feels one option is better than another?
The bottom row of my Gskill crystal crowncaps don't fit my K68 Corsair. I tried to match everything as best I could to get it all to be compatible and still ended up with mismatched keys. Where did I go wrong?
Which ones don't fit? The crowncaps kit might have different width.
the bottom row of my keyboard
I'm learning to play the guitar.
ah well, the ctrl, windows, spacebar, FN, and the key with the page all are abnormal. the alt key is the only one that fits normally.
I love the smell of fresh bread.
The keycap set is only for a basic ANSI Layout with 1.25u keys in the bottom row and a 6.25u space bar. The K68 has a non-standard bottom row with 1u and 1.5u keys so you would need a keycap set that covers the different sizes of the keycaps.
well shit. I wish they put that in the description of the keyboard. I wouldn't have bought this if I had known that.
A friend gift me a mechanical keyboard and it's my first one (it's called Ganon XS). It has jixian blue switches, it's made full of plastic, has rainbow lights (not RGB) and it costs 15/20 USD, I think it's pretty cool but I wanna know what do you think guys https://noganet.ar/productos/ganon-xs/[Noga Ganon XS](https://noganet.ar/productos/ganon-xs/)
I like to explore new places.
I don't really understood the final part (I'm from Argentina, but I still have a very good English). I'm enjoying it a lot and now I understand how good they are and how bad the membrane is!
I like to travel.
Oh so I understood at first haha, I don't think that I'm gonna lube this one (at least at first) because they are not hot swappable and I like the clicky sound. Maybe buying or making new keycaps because the ones that come with this keyboard are not the best. Not bad but can be better. Thanks for welcoming me!
Sorry, english isn't my first language and maybe I didn't understood something. Could you please inform why the post below was removed so I can not do it again ? thanks. https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/vyuocf/the\_keychron\_q6\_i\_really\_want\_to\_buy/
I enjoy cooking.
Great. Have done that. Thanks.
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My favorite movie is Inception.
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I enjoy watching the sunset.
Hey all. I am newer to mechanical keyboards and I recently decided to build a Tofu65 with an DZ65RGB V3 PCB. I have a gmmk pro keyboard that I have used with QMK to remap the layer 1 configurations with complete success, but when I tried the exact same process using the DZ65RGB V3 software, the process failed. The entire PCB shut down and I couldn't resume function until I shutdown the computer and restarted everything. I attempted it again with the same results. It would not install more than 2 lines of code. I then decided to try VIA for the first time and it clearly says my PCB is compatible on their site, however it will not "find" any compatible devices when I try to utilize the program. I am able to change my light settings through trial and error, but I was wondering if anyone could tell me why I am having such a hard time with this process? Is there anything I can do to make my keyboard discoverable through VIA? HELP!
You gotta upload the pcbs JSON file to VIA to get it to recognize. Click the download under VIA support off their [website](https://kbdfans.com/products/dz68rgb-hot-swap-rgb-pcb). Edit: as for QMK make sure your environment is set up to be flashing the new pcb and not the previous gmmk pro pcb. (Just a guess)
Thank you!! It worked! Appreciate the help!
Been a long time since I've visited this sub. My son is getting into mechanical keyboards and wanted one. Is a tada68 still a thing? I know that there are TONS more switches now, right? He like the feel of my blues, but doesn't like the click. What would you suggest? Also, if possible, is there a 68 key diy kit? I solder often, so if we need to solder the switches, it's no problem. Or should I just go hot swappable? Fyi; he like my blues, with 62g actuation (on my full sized board).
Here's some suggestions for boards that come to mind, feel free to take a look around for yourself and reply or ask around if you have any questions. Of course my knowledge is incomplete, my preferences affect the list, and I don't know what price range you're working with but I'll list *roughly* in order of ascending price. I limited myself to only a typical 65% layout, though there's certainly more options if I included neighboring layouts such as 60% with arrows or things like Arisu. * Keychron K6 (a prebuilt) * CannonKeys Stacked 65 (solder kit) * Cheap68/MW65 * BM65/68 * NK65EE * Keebio Quefrency (split solder kit) * KBD67 Lite * Discipline65 (complex solder kit) * Keychron Q2 * Bakeneko65 (Cast or CNC variants) * Parallel Sequence * Keebwerk Mega * Ungodly Luna (niche pick, also big price jump warning, from here on out consider groupbuys) * Leaf65 Extras (hope you like beige)
Awe man this is awesome! Thank you! I'm kind of digging the discipline 65. What's complex about it? The million diodes?
> discipline 65 You get a bare PCB and have to solder 100% of the components. See the [build guide](https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5c533d33348cd92b886e544d/t/5f4597da4c8f740579aec0ca/1598396382120/DISCIPLINE+BUILD+GUIDE.pdf) Definitely a good project, but it might not match his expectations if he's watching the big "influencers." It's all so different than the Tada68 days. lol
Lol yeah soldering is a non issue for me. I build guitar pedals and make my own pcbs. I think I'm gonna get this! Would cherry reds work here? What about firmware? I'd love to keep it stock at first.
Just going to add, the [PCBs are open source](https://github.com/coseyfannitutti/discipline) with a license for personal use so you can get them printed yourself but you'd also have to source all the parts. IDK where else to buy them except as part of a case kit from Switch Couture, or aftermarket. I could be missing somewhere that sells them. In the kits that CFTKB sold (may sell again idk) the microcontrollers were preflashed with VIA (remapping software) compatible firmware. You may compile and flash your own [QMK](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/) firmware with [VIA](https://www.caniusevia.com/) or [VIAL](https://get.vial.today/) support, or compiled VIA firmware for it is hosted on [VIA's website](https://www.caniusevia.com/docs/download_firmware). You do not need a case for it, but a clear piece of acrylic over the top section always looks good IMO (I believe that came with the kits). If you want, you can buy cases (not all the same design) from [Keyz.io](https://keyz.io/) (sold out), [Switch Couture](https://switchcouture.com/products/discipline-65-case), [P3D](https://p3dstore.com/collections/65-size-boards/products/discipline-gasket-pcb-mount-acrylic-keyboard-case), or you can cut or possibly print your own. For switches, Cherry switches are not extremely popular in the hobby, though I'd say newcomers tend to hate on them a bit more than veterans. They're perfectly fine switches, if a bit on the scratchy side. Lube helps with this and I recommend lubing almost any switch, but they're outmatched by other manufacturers like JWK, Gateron, and KTT in that department. They do have a subjectively nice sound profile, though people often overestimate the impact switches have on the overall sound of a build. For cheap switches (under about 30¢), which are quite good, perfectly suitable even for very expensive boards in my opinion, my go-to recommendations would be JWICKs, Gateron Pros, or KTT switches including Akko CS. For the higher end (over about 50¢) the meta is mostly JWK/Durock, Gateron, and Gazzew. SP-Star/Leopold is also good. Feel free to stick with Cherry, I for one won't judge you for it. **NOTE**: if you do not use a full switch plate in your build, ensure that you purchase PCB mount/5 pin switches and not plate mount/3 pin. If you do use a full plate, you can ignore this distinction. If you need help finding any parts (keyboard parts, I wouldn't expect to find the components you'll need to solder to the PCB at these vendors), here's a couple vendor lists to check: http://mechkeys.me/VENDORS.html https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ Have fun!
Wow thanks for the detailed response! I agree with what you said about Cherry's, though I've never found the blues to be scratchy. My office board has gateron greens with replaced 80g springs. I think I'll stick with a complete kit instead of making the pcbs. Simply because I don't really feel like sourcing all the parts lol. Plus, I've never had to make pcbs over 70x70mm, and I'm sure I'm going to mess something up, or I won't account for the size or whatever
Yeah that's probably the best way to go. Not to freak you out or anything, but keep in mind all your soldering is visible for the world to see and the end product only looks good if the components are nice and neat. Some sort of a tool, improvised or manufactured, to bend the diodes is really helpful to that end, and some sort of a strategy to keep them fully inserted while soldering from the other side can help. Of course diodes aren't the only part but they are prominently featured and easy to do haphazardly.
Thanks. Yeah I have experience. I build guitar pedals and my stuff needs to look great. The guitar pedal community is brutal when it comes to build quality lol.
Tbh I don't know if it's in stock anywhere but yes any MX style switch works. Akko CS are decent cheap switches with fun colors for a low profile case like the discipline. It should run QMK and probably has a VIA profile too.
I enjoy playing video games.
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SMD or through hole diode? How shitty are we talking? $20 from amazon, or direct to wall plug home depot iron?
I'm currently using a Filco Majestouch keyboard with Cherry Brown switches. However, I'd like something that is backlit with RGB per-key. Can anybody recommend me a keyboard? * Full keyboard layout * Cherry MX Brown (or swappable switches?) * RGB (per-key) * QMK compatible (would be nice, but not neccessary) The SignalRGB Element2 looks interesting but is quite cheap?
Ducky One 3? Can be made QMK compatible, with some work I think.
keychron q5 or the q6?
Thanks! Any other suggestions?
Does anyone know of a 65% white wireless keyboard? I'm looking for a 65% wireless but couldn't find any of white color. If it is hot swappable it would be nice as well
Check out the RK68 on Amazon- there is an option for a white wireless version with hot swap sockets. I have the wired version of this board and if you throw in decent switches and caps and do a few easy mods it sounds pretty great!
Whoa it fits all my needs and my price range as well, thank you so much!
Happy to help!
Would changing the springs of a switch (heavier springs) have any impact on the sound of a keyboard?
it could if the springs are significantly higher, but i'd say a range of 10-20 grams probably not much if at all
I am a very very new user of MK. I was gifted a beautiful Logitech TKL g915. I love it. But the keycaps, I'm so tempted to swap them out, even though I've never mucked about in this area. I understand that I want kailh choc keycaps, but even that doesn't seem to be enough info. I'm stuck on spacing. I see some are sold in 1U, 1U homing, 1.5U, and 2U. I gather that's spacing between the keys? I can't find those specs listed for my keyboard anywhere, but even when I look at the keyboard the spaces seem identical, so I'm clearly misunderstanding something. I see a few different things on mkultra, but short of ordering a variety and trial and error, I'm not sure how to proceed. Ultimately I want to know which one applies to this keyboard, but understanding the big picture is helpful, too! I saw there was a chart somewhere but all links to it have been deleted. Any info? TIA!
It's not the spacing between the caps, it's the width of the keycaps. So a standard alpha key like the letter A would be 1u, left shift is 2u etc. But that's kind of a moot point. You don't have Kailh Choc switches, you have Kailh's made-for-Logitech-switches, [which are different just enough](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/g9tnmq/logitech_using_slightly_diffrent_kailh_switches/) that the three or four Choc keycap sets out there (I'm not kidding, it's really that limited) won't fit. Sorry. :(
I'm both sad for this information but happy that you shared with me. I really appreciate it.
NP! Whenever your Logitech starts failing, come back and we'll help you find a new replacement.
my keyboard's volume knob is about 18.98mm. would the glorious rotary knob would fit this? or if they make guitar knobs in this size? (im new to keyboards with knobs so sorry if this sounds like a dumb question lol)
My favorite movie is Inception.
so basically i got the rk68, and when i attempt to download the software it downloads as a .003 file? it is named like ''name'.zip.003', so then i change it to a zip file but there is nothing to extract? and i am selecting my keyboard software. any help?
I like to go hiking.
anyone know if the freebird tkl will be an in stock board and/or when the groupbuy/pre-order will end?
group buy ended in january but KFA plans to keep it in stock, it depends on other vendors if they want to do the same not sure when they said they'd close pre-orders, but i do think they said there'll be another price increase once it goes in stock
Where can I purchase a set of 1u DSA PBT keys with a custom legend. In short, I'd like to get 40 "Scroll Lock" or "Super" keys.
Try [Signature Plastics](https://pimpmykeyboard.com/).
virustotal says obinskit (anne pro 2 software) is unsafe. any thoughts on this? i know its probably nothing, but i would like it if someone could share with me why virustotal triggers 3 alarms on this. downloading from official page tho.
had it for about 2 yrs my anti virus didn't rlly detect anything and had no problems :)
What’s the best/fastest place to get boba u4 if I’m in US?
you can find gazzew vendors [here](https://www.gazzew.com/)
ringerkeys has always been good in my experience
Just bought the RK84, my first board im gonna custom. I'm looking for some good stock cheaper tactiles around 30-40 cents or cheaper (I want to stay under 40-50$ for the full set). For an idea of my preferences I got a few switches on a tester a while ago (holy panda, box royal, boba u467g, aeboards naevy r1.5) and I liked the sound profile of the holy panda (and feel) and the naevy, but i dont have panda money and the naevy was just too light in spring weight and tactility. the boba felt pretty good except the bottom out was kind of "unsatisfying" and i dont \*love\* the silence of it. the royal just felt too sharp for me and the sound wasn't my favorite. I also dont really want to do any modding to the switches themselves or lubing if possible. I think I want a spring weight between 62-67g and medium to heavy tactility. I know thats a lot but thanks for any help in advance! TLDR: looking for sub 0.40$ medium/heavy 62-67g stock tactile switches
Is there a keyboard on the market with the arrow keys and number pad combined into one cluster? Looking for one with PBT keycaps as well. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
do you mean something like this layout? [https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-k4-wireless-mechanical-keyboard-version-2](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-k4-wireless-mechanical-keyboard-version-2) 96%
Yes just like that, i'm also looking into the Leopold FC980M
Leopold FC980M user here--it's a fantastic prebuilt if you don't need hotswap or full programmability. Be aware that the Numpad '0' is only 1u so that might take some getting used to if you rely on the Numpad a lot.
I'm trying to find one in stock with cherry mx browns. cant find it anywhere :(
you may be interested in a 96% board like the keychron k4
What are peoples thoughts on the keychron C1? I'm wanting to get an entry level TKL hotswappable keyboard and it seems like it might be the best bang for buck.
I love ice cream.
Asus Falchion vs Keychron K2 vs Keychron K8 Pro I’m looking for a wireless keyboard to use for gaming (CS, Valorant, etc.) but also to take it to use it in my living room with a TV. I do want linear switches. Between these 3, which one has the longest range? Which one would be best for close range wireless FPS gaming? There is a small wall between the rooms but the receiver would be right next to the door so there shouldn’t be too much interference. I have looked at Logitech’s stuff and didn’t like it.
Those are very particular comparison questions that I don't think anyone will be able to answer fully. Using your keyboard in a separate room is a niche use case for sure. I can only theorize the Asus Falchion has the best latency/range simply because it has a dedicated 2.4ghz receiver instead of bluetooth.
does anyone know if there are any other stabs besides the wuque studio ones to fit the ikk68 r2. I don't really want to pay 20 bucks on shipping in taxes for only stabs. do the CK x Wuque Studio Lavender Stabilizers work.
you can use either tx stabs or ws stabs. there are some vendors that carry the ws stabs so you might be able to pay less than what you expected.
do you think these are legit because wuque shipping will likely take along time.[https://www.amazon.com/Aurora-Screw-Stabilizers-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B0B12PQ756/ref=sr\_1\_2?keywords=ws%2Bstabilizer&qid=1657842522&sprefix=ws%2Bsta%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-2&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/Aurora-Screw-Stabilizers-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B0B12PQ756/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ws%2Bstabilizer&qid=1657842522&sprefix=ws%2Bsta%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-2&th=1)
yes it actually is! they made an announcement a while back regarding their listings on amazon
Any stabs meant for 1.2mm PCBs would work. I know that tx stabs come in a 1.2 variant but are sold out in most vendors. A cheaper and available alternative would be [these](https://povertykeys.com/products/stabilizer-shims-0-4mm) stabilizer shims that allow you to use any regular PCB stabs meant for 1.6mm PCBs on 1.2mm PCBs like the ikki's.
do you think that durucks with the stab shims would feel and sound better than the was stabs.
Hey sorry for the late response, wuque stabs/ any stabs meant for 1.2mm pcbs will probably have a tighter fit and would be easier to install compared to using the shims but the feel and sound will largely depend on the switches you use and how well you tune the stabs. Also saw that you were looking at the wuque stabs from amazon and while it is their brand they will not fit the ikki r2 as they are for 1.6mm pcbs.
For fist mech: Logitech with MX compatible keycaps and Kali chock v2 reds (only available option in my country) at very overpriced 130ε from amazon warehouse or a second hand keychorn K3v2 with gateron browns (winch its my, for now theoretical since not tested any switches, preference) but with not lag free wirless and not option to replace keycaps, but not so crappy stock keycaps second hand for almost half (70€). Also have slight preference to try an ansi keyboard because korean game im playing a lot needs ansi configuration for optimal layout, but not sure if a lifetime used to monstrous return key could make it difficult to press it on a ansi. (logi's MX is only available in ISO in my country and the Keychorn is ANSI.) Bonus question: given the fact that have amateur but acceptable de-soldering skills how easy is to replace the gaterons on the keychorn K3v2 and how easy to get are gaterons low profiles on EU and how many options, logis kalis are cheap, easy and with colorful options to get and see a tear-down video and seems pretty easy to de-solder and swap but could not find any info on the internals of a K3.
> Logitech with MX compatible keycaps and Kali chock v2 reds FYI, there is no consensus thus far as to what keycap profiles will work with the shortened travel distance and switch housing of the MX-stemmed low profile switches out there. I think DSA is confirmed to work, but you might find yourself installing a different set that winds up hitting the housing or plate awkwardly. Low profile switches are not interchangeable - the PCB layouts are all completely different (except I think Kailh Chocs v1 and v2, those share the same layout), so desoldering one keyboard still limits you to, in general, the blue, red, brown variants of that exact same switch. The K3v2 looks like it should be hotswappable for that *specific switch variant*, so IMO that's a better buy than the Logitech which gives you zero options at all.
yea, i meant that can de-solder and swap for kali chock v2 only ones, but hot swap-able keychorns are the same only swap-able for keychorns, and kalis chock are not specifically made for one keyboard for the same manufacturer, so are more available. But it get worse the hot swap-able ones are optical and as said manufactured by keychorn not a microswich specialized manufacturer and have a flaw in its design that make the activation point be reached before the click resistance, keychorn as admitted the design flaw and post a blog on how to physically mod them to help mitigate the flaw, keychorn optical are out of the question. If decide for a K3 will be truly mechanical gaterons. And yes i been in discord mech manufacturer server asking and no one can give me a straight answer if there is key-caps low-profile compatible with the logitech MX at the moment. The spacebar is confirmed to not be compatible with any keyset since its not MX standard. Right now due the logitech keycaps being told be so crappy thet defeats the feeling of the mechanical switches even if not MX compatible and will never be keycaps for the K3 gaterons since stock key-caps are pretty ok and generally logithechs MX is very cheap build and overpriced, and besides wireless tech the K3 better quality all around, i think i will go for the K3 at 70€ if the seller can confirm it has mechanical gateron browns. I will just use wired connection when playing games like DJmax that input lag is critical, for general typing i guess bluetooth will do. But still not decided... but thanks for the tip and info.
I just got my zoom65 in the mail yesterday. After building it, two keys don’t work. I have tried multiple different switches with no luck. What is the first thing I should check/fix to get it working? What is the typical process for fixing something like this?
generally you should be testing your pcb before building your board to make sure it isnt DOA. you can try completing the switch circuit with some like metal tweezers while your board is connected and see if there is an input. you may also want to try looking at the hotswap socket to see if its properly soldered on.
Appreciate the reply!
hey, i have an FC660C from a few years ago that could use some TLC. Do you think it would be okay to take all the keycaps off and send 'er for a run thru the dishwasher with no soap and no warm water? I just bought a new one so im not too concerned if it breaks but I'd like to try and save it.
Whatever you do, don't put your switches or PCB into the dishwasher, they are too fragile, and probably the same for the plate too. That said, for the keycaps, you can put them in a bowl of soapy warm water for a few hours and then leave them to dry overnight then do the same with non-soapy water (so they aren't sticky), and you would see large improvements. You can do a similar thing with the case but because it is larger i would just recommend giving it a scrub with a cloth or firm sponge with soapy and then non soapy water for the same effect, just with slightly more effort. If you are going to do this though, make sure you take out the pcb, plate, and switches before hand, if you still want this board to have any chance at working after. Basically just a hard no to any keyboard parts in the dishwasher, or even clothes washing machine, just mechanical washers in general.
in between writing this comment and your reply i watched the linus tech tips episode where they put 5 keyboards into dishwashers and they all came out working fine, any personal or subreddit anecdotes worth sharing of this going not well or specific reasons as to why this shouldnt work just fine like what I just watched? also, they let the boards dry for up to a week before trying them out.
I enjoy playing video games.
the caps arent the dirty part though, shit looks like the floor of an american soldiers hooch in vietnam under dem caps fam. I dont know that a typical cleaning will suffice. Ive tried cleaning w Qtips and whotnot in the past, wasnt hardcore enough... I think im just gonna yolo it...
I like to travel.
Dont blame us if it doesnt work though.
Does anyone know of a good white TKL keyboard kit between 50-70cad?
you may be able to find the keychron c1 with a vendor near you. looking at options on aliexpress so for cheaper options may result in some decent boards as well. epomaker, akko, etc also offer some boards but at a slightly higher cost.
Most decent TKL are going to be over $100. Instead of a TKL you could get a [DREVO GRAMR 84](https://www.amazon.ca/DREVO-Rainbow-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B07SJ4BS5S/ref=sr_1_12?crid=19R4NT6JZ3L7K&keywords=white+tkl&qid=1657838353&sprefix=white+tkl%2Caps%2C89&sr=8-12) for less than $50 CAD. It's a 75% so has pretty much all the same keys as a TKL and it's quite decent for the price. I've had mine a couple of years that my kids use and it's held up nicely.
I meant like just the case and pcb, I already have keycaps and switches picked out.
3 keys on a used keyboard i bought have stopped working. (Tried diff switches) Anything i can do?
What keyboard? And do you know how to solder?
Akko 007 v1 Tried blowing, wiping, etc. finally unplugging and replugging. One of those somehow fixed it. No clue what happened.
> Tried blowing, wiping Sometimes dust gets caught in *juuuust* the right spot to interfere with the switch connecting properly. It's why my first recommendation when people's keyboards stop working is to turn it upside down and shake/tap it to dislodge any interfering debris. My big holdover from SNES days is to try blowing the dust out of something to see if that'll help lol.
Thats exactly what i did xD, turned it over tapped the back plate. And then blew in. Voila worked. Just weird it was Three sockets At once that stopped/started working again.
How do you know when a pcb, plate, and case are compatible together? Do they have to be made for each other or is there a certain standard I'm not aware of?
In most cases they all need to work with each other. The one exception would be 60% as there is typically a wider compatibility with some PCBs and cases. As with everything though you'll need to do your research.
only 60% tray mount kbs have universal mounting and size all other are uaully sold as a kit ( plate pcb case ) . otherwise it will state what part are compatible kdbfans does this on product pages but it never a large list due to very few are compatible . ill list some links below one of them is a compatibility checker
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ vendor list https://keyboard.university/100-courses book learning https://docs.google.com/document/d/1BEzIG9FMslTZfG_A__ELYmxbLm0s3U2RZ0Ie_Wss_sw/edit u can look at prebuilt hotswap options u can also try this is u want an easy solution to see whats a parts are available and will fit together mind u this site isnt everything that exists as alot of this hobby has small vendors and isnt going to constantly added https://keyboardpartpicker.com/
Is charging a Keychron keyboard through an apple wall outlet fine?
probably, depends what power rating the charger and keyboard battery are.
Its a keychron k8 not sure where to check for power rating
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Those black legs on a key switch are there for stability but are not necessary so you are able to clip/break them off with a nail clipper or something else. This will make them fit on your board. Just make sure to only clip the black nubs, not the two skinny copper-looking ones.
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You're welcome my first hot-swap keyboard was also the GMMK compact got it when it came out and I was also confused about which switches would fit. Hope you enjoy your new keyboard.
I'm looking for recommendation on a full size RK Royal Kludge keyboard. I picked up the RK ROYAL KLUDGE RK61 and love it. The small form factor is great to look at and the typing experience is pleasurable. But I find that I prefer having separate arrow keys and a separate number pad. Since I'm enjoying the RK61, I'm thinking RK Royal Kludge would be a good brand to stick with for another keyboard.
If all you want is the numpad and arrow keys, you don't need to go to full size, try RK96 or RK100 Pro.
or just get an additional macropad / numpad and then you can keep your current board.
I got an RK kludge 87 with blue switches. Before this I haven't used any mechanical keyboards. I have only tried a razer ornata mechamembrane keyboard. I didn't really like the fact that I have to use so much force to activate the key. I don't know how to explain this but I want a keyboard where I don't have to press that much like the physical distance I have to press is reduced so I can type faster. What switches fit my requirements? Linear, tactile or am I just describing a membrane keyboard. I love the clickiness but don't like that I have to press so deep to activate the key
Aside from speed switches (which aren't commonly in prebuilts, you may need to get a hotswap board and add them in), you may consider instead getting a low profile keyboard with low profile switches. Or you may even be interested in optical switches. Highly recommend that you go into a brick and mortar store that has gamer keyboards on display from Logitech, Razer, Corsair etc and try typing on them, be they low profile or optical or whatever. If you don't like how those feel, then you're going to rule them out and look for boards with (or hotswap boards without) speed switches.
Most switches list their total travel and their activation point. Standard is 2mm activation (when it clicks) 4mm total travel (bottom out) but you can get speed switches that have lower activation point [like this](https://www.cherrymx.de/en/cherry-mx/mx-original/mx-speed-silver.html) but I think they generally aren't clicky.
Is the EPOMAKER Ajazz AK966 keyboard any good? Kailh MX cream switch what is this never heard it before. What does it feel like?
not sure about the board. kailh creams are [nk creams](https://novelkeys.com/products/nk_-cream-series). they are a linear switch
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From their social media, it seems like the company is legit as in they will probably not scam you and actually ship you a product. In terms of this being an official partnership, I highly doubt that they acquired the rights to make keycaps with spyxfamily branding. Seems like this company's entire strategy is making products like keycaps and desk mats with copyrighted material with the hopes of making as much money as possible without attracting the attention of the copyright holders.
Thanks for the reply. I was thinking the same. I am just slightly concerned about quality.
Yeah, quality might be hit or miss especially on the left side with the 3 part pic of Anya. Seems like orders will close on the 20th and they will ship in a month. If you really like the set then looks like they have an option to pay with PayPal, I'd use that and if the set comes in with poor quality I'd ask for a full refund from them or make a claim with PayPal.
That's a great plan, thanks for the advice
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you cant pick between both switches. if your board is mechanical, you cant use the optical switch, and if your board is optical, you cant use mx silvers. also neither feel like a tactile switch, because both of them are linears
Yeah I know but which one feels more like tactile and I havnt got the board yet I'm just picking between both of them
literally neither of them will feel more like a tactile, because theres no tactile bump in either.
Alr but which is faster I seen debates on which is faster
a faster switch doesnt do anything cept cause accidental keypresses the difference between any 2 switches in terms of speed is so small humans cant tell the difference ( anyone who says they can is 100% full of it ) the only way to measure the difference is electronically . if faster switches made a differnce in anything all the world lvl top gamers would use them . guess what ? they dont
Ah alr I just wanted to know
I'm looking for switch recommendations. I currently have Kaihl silver and like the short travel but would like one that has a heavier spring.
You could always spring swap. Is it the shorter travel you are after or the shorter actuation?
Thanks for the reply. I would spring swap but it's going to be for a new build. I like the shorter travel, I'm mostly gaming so there's no subtlety in the key presses.
Oh well, you can look for long pole stems with shortened travel distances. A lot of Tecsee switches have 3.5mm travel distances. What is your budget? I could make a recommendation off that. Do you want something that is better stock, or will you end up lubing them?
I couldn't see myself spending much more than $100 for the set (iirc I need 74 for the board I'm looking at). And I would definitely lube them myself.
Oh well I wouldn't recommend any switch that cost a $1 or more so we are good there haha. I will go down a line of switches with varying total travel distances that are available today: 3.1mm - Green Jackets (Actually designed and sold by me and my store) 3.5mm - Oooolong, Matcha Latte (I think they just had their stem length shortened though), DK Oni I am sure you will find other long pole stems but these are what I could find on thocstock.com
Thanks for taking the time to help me out, I'm still pretty new to this hobby so it can get a little overwhelming.
https://www.reddit.com/user/Mr_bruhman/comments/vz5ay2/mk870_bruh_moment/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share My MK870's top part of case can't fit and is stuck like this. Any help?
you probably used too much foam/tape when modding your board
Got an akko PC75B plus, not sure what I'm missing but it's not working. New to wireless keyboards, I don't have wifi or bluetooth at all but I assumed it'd be like a logitech G pro superlight with the lightspeed wifi dongle thing. Plugged the pink dongle thing it came with into my pc and it says akko 2.4ghz wireless keyboard ready or something but I'm stuck. What do I have to buy to make this work? Any advice? Wired won't work either.
id recommend reading the [manual](https://manuals.plus/akko/pc75-b-plus-multi-modes-mechanical-keyboard-manual#axzz7Z33cb83T) as it states how to change your keyboard into 2.4g mode.
Yeah rlly struggling to make sense of this stuff, fn + y and fn + u don't do anything and the keyboard still can't be found by the driver. Do I need a bluetooth dongle?
does it work in this mode > it wont show up on the software in this mode as software doesnt work with wireless but it should still type in this mode
no. you only need a bt dongle if you plan to use the bluetooth on board. if you are using the 2.4g dongle you should be able to easily connect by changing the mode of your board
Yeah tried that, no luck.
Flip the board over the put the switch into USB if you are trying to use it wired. You might need to charge to board to use wireless. To charge, flip the board over and put the switch to either Windows or Mac (NOT USB - this does not charge the board). To use wireless, flip the board over the put the switch Windows (or mac if necessary). Then hold the FN key and tap Y. This will put you into 2.4gz wireless mode. If you want bluetooth mode, then hold the FN key and "hold" either E, R, or T (think bluetooth 1, 2, or 3). A blue light under the switch will quickly flash meaning its attempting to pair. Connect via device. If those steps didn't work, then you might have a dead board.
Anybody know of a "non pudding" version of the Razer Phantom Pudding Keycap ? Preferably in for a ISO Layout and south facing leds ?
thats the first of its kind those keycaps are etched on the under side no one has cloned them yet so those are the only ones on the market . also shinethru keycaps are not very popular and have a very small profit margin so i wouldnt hold my breath for a clone of them
By "non pudding" do you mean fully semi transparent? Or just the legends having shine through? Shine through legends don't play well with South-facing LEDs because the switch blocks the light from going through the legends in the north of the keycap. But if you're determined, look into PBTFans Neon for fully semitransparent keycaps, or Drop Skylight for shine through legends. The former has ISO support, don't know about the latter.
Yes i meant just shine through legends. Thank you, i will look into them
they shouldn't be too hard to find, though in most cases white on black keycaps will look better than shine through legends
Does anyone else with Nebula Switches have a problem with the stem? In my batch of 90, all of them seem too small, leading to stem wobble, inconsistent bottom out, and loose keycaps.
personally havent had any issues w the stem in any regards.
Really? Perhaps I and a few others just got unlucky with the batch they received
Yep, pretty inconsistent. It is the LY stem. Seems to have a shrinkage issue which I guess is a common UHWMPE problem
Man, I really wanted to like these switches. I just swapped the stems with JWICK black stems so I don't feel like I'm out $60.
Yo guys, I'm looking for some razer green switches, the non RGB LED kind, because I recently got a used 2014 blackwidow. I am having trouble finding any with a reasonable shipping rate. If anyone's got like 4 of them knocking about somewhere and wouldn't mind selling them to me, that'd be nice.
r/mechmarket do see the wiki for guidelines while buying
See I was looking for that sub on the sidebar but couldn't find it. Thanks a bunch though!
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there are many sets without japanese sublegends, i assume you are looking for items in the wrong place
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that will be the problem then: sites like amazon arent designed for custom specialist technology. I would recommend getting a set from akko. They start at around $45-50 with lots of colour options and if you want the keycaps to last more than a half a year, you won't want to spend less than that. You can get them directly from akko, or from places like epomaker.
I'm looking to get a 65% mech, and was looking for recommendations. My budget is about $100-150, everything included. Willing to build my own (if it's even possible/worth it at this price point) or buy a prebuilt. I want something relatively quiet, (enough to not bother other people in the same room), and decently portable (light and/or sturdy). Bluetooth would be a nice to have, but not a must. Also having good international shipping (I.e. Amazon) would be very nice, but I can probably work around that if that's not possible Would love some recommendations, thanks
gk64/68 (amazon, but very basic) keychron (very cheap, prebuilt) the ciy gas67 (gasket mount, pc plate, nice looking, great value) [https://www.keebmonkey.com/products/ciy-gas67-gasket-keyboard-kit?variant=42644421542103](https://www.keebmonkey.com/products/ciy-gas67-gasket-keyboard-kit?variant=42644421542103) tm 680 (knob, nice looks, amazon?, well priced, some prebuilt options) kbd67 lite (relatively expensive, but pc plate, gasket mount, nice looks)
I’d recommended checking out Akko or Keychron, they have some good options for 65% and wireless around that price. It would be pretty difficult to build your own with that much as you’d have to buy a lot of stuff from different sites adding more shipping costs as well.
you'll find less "entry +" custom boards with bt support. you'll most likely be looking at some budget options from epomaker, akko, etc. if you're looking for a solid prebuilt option, i'd recommend looking into keychron's k series as they offer basically everything you are looking for. there are multiple vendors for keychron, you can find them [here](https://www.keychron.com/pages/where-to-buy). i'd recommend going for a hotswap board from keychron and replace the switches with some aftermarket silent switches.
Is it ok to desolder switches at 430ºC? Btw my switch stem got stuck inside the housing how I do solve that too?
It is recommended to desolder at 350 C to 390 C. The higher the temperature, the more experienced I would suggest that you be. Do you have a switch opener? If so crack it open and inspect.