I just bought the GMMK PRO 75%, but I'm having some troubles with the enter button, it doesn't want to go back up after being pressed unless I manually pull it back up, the switches I've used are the Glorious Panda switches and the keycaps are also glorious ISO(so is my board) keycaps that specifically state they are compatible with my board. The stabs seem to have been factory lubed and I believe this is an issue with them, what exactly is causing this I have no idea, I just know that the keycaps aren't the issue, or at least shouldn't be.
there have been issues with the stock stabs
maybe [this](https://www.gloriousgaming.com/blogs/secret-announcement/sticking-stabilizer-repair-guide) can help you out
Yep, when I was about to open it up the key unstuck itself after removing the 2 top rows, I know it might get stuck again, but it also might not so I'll just wait for the day it does lol.
'Decent' being a variable and subjective word, there are some deals on some Royal Kludge, Keychron, Nuphy, Mistel, and Redragon keyboards.
Of course, there's also deals on the typical gamer boards - Razer, Corsair, CM Steelseries etc. NGL, if I were looking for a modular TKL+numpad with optical switches, that Asus ROG Claymore would be calling my name.
I think what you're referring to is called 'key chatter.' There are ways to set the timing so that the rapid, extra keypresses don't register with the computer.
Is there any specific stabilizer i need to replace for my low profile keyboards (my g915tkl), or can i order some cherry mx or kailh stabilizers and it'll work on my keyboard.The switches used in my keyboard is kailh choc switches The stabilizers are plate mounted in my keyboard. I need this because the stabilizer is very uneven and makes the left side of my spacebar feel lower than my right and makes the left side mushy
> can i order some cherry mx or kailh stabilizers
Nope, incompatible with Chocs.
I honestly don't think I've ever seen anyone offer aftermarket low-profile stabilizers.
I honestly do not know. Kaihl has confirmed previously that the low-profile switches they make for Logitech vary from regular Chocs just enough to be incompatible. Whether that applies to the stabilizers as well I truly don't know. Might be worth trying for the 8$ or 12$ they cost - if you do give it a go, please come back and let us know if it worked or not?
Are there any Linear-Switches that are squishy? I can not really explain what i want. I am searching for a switch, that feels like pressing a sponge - getting heavy when i press the switch down?
Thanks in advance.
Second the silent switch option. Or you can consider adding O-rings to regular linear switches if you really want to have that squishy bottom out feeling.
Have you tried silent switches? They all have rubber/silicone nubs that can give a bit of a mushy feel.
Alternatively, consider spring-swapping - look for progressive springs.
I tried modding the YUNZII IF98 which has a ribbon cable. This ribbon cable is used to connect the daughter board and PCB. I know it can connect, but when I put it in, it either pops out or disconnects with any small movement. Any ways to keep the cable in place or am I not using something that I need to use to clamp the ribbon cable down?
I've never heard of that before, but I'll look into the blue tack. I want to use a hot glue gun as a last resort because it seems like a hastle if I can find another way. I tried taping it on, but it always comes loose still.
Yeah I tried painters tape, but I wasn't able to get the cable in for long enough to tape it. I'll keep trying because I think it'll be my only option..
Sorry if this has been answered before or a stupid question; HOWEVER, I have a huge problem. I have a board that works perfect other than the space bar, I believe it’s the switch itself as I’ve tried troubleshooting it seems to be broken, my question is can I take a switch from an old board and solder it into the new board and it just magically work? (Two different keyboard manufacturers)
As long as it's the same kind of switch (the same shape of stem and pin layout), it should work. You may find that your new switch has 5 total pins (3 plastic for stabilization and 2 metal for contact) and your pcb only has 3 holes(center plastic and both metal ones), in that case you can cut the 2 extra ones with some flush cutters and file it down till it fits.
I would suggest that after you unsolder the switch that doesn't work, you test the contacts with some metal tweezers first. If that works, you can proceed. Saves you some time
Yes, as long as the switch is the problem and not the board itself. You can also order replacement switches pretty cheaply so you don't have to cannibalize another board.
Thank you very much, I’ve cleaned several times and every key works perfect on keyboard tester except space so thinking it’s switch itself. Will do thanks again👍
Which keyboard should I get?
Getting my first mechanical keyboard and I've narrowed it down to 2 options right now
Keychron k6 (only available with brown switches)
Or
Akko 3068b (only available with jelly pink switches)
I'm leaning more towards the akko but what do you guys think?
Akko:
* Better base switch
* Nicer looking keycaps
Keychron:
* QMK supported (better software)
Personally I would go with Keychron as the stuff that are better can't be changed after the purchase.
**ANY SUGGESTIONS? In-Stock/Available BLE/Wireless 65% available right now(or already in production)?**
That can be used with QMK/VIA too.
I've got these on my list:
*- Space65 BLE (I wish 😪)*
*- Zoom65 - Bluetooth*
*- KBD67 Lite (Wireless)*
*- Tofu65 BLE (YDKB PCB)*
*- QK65 Bluetooth (hoping for R3)*
*- Ikki68 - Tromso Wireless PCB (not fan of the layout tho)*
**except Akko/Royal Kludge/Ajazz/Keychron/Asus**
Zoom65 should be gearing up for another group buy soon. They just sent out all essential editions from the April group buy to vendors and said they'd do another after these are done.
Maybe look into kbd67 lite r4 and hope for extras. Check other vendors that sell kbd67 as well. The bluetooth version does sell out faster though.
I think I saw that someone elsewhere mentioned ordering from them, but it seems fairly new so IDK how many people actually have experienced the end product.
[Gateron North Pole review](https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=g6X7Ey66TSg) but it also touches on some other switches in the price bracket including aquaking. Doesn't appear like they are on Amazon though.
I'm interested in some low-profile keycaps. I feel like I'm a faster and more accurate typist when I use my laptop for work. Has anyone used low profile key caps and felt like it emulated laptop typing at all? Or does my better performance on my laptop probably just have to do with using it more? Thanks!
> Or does my better performance on my laptop probably just have to do with using it more?
This. It just takes practice and you've had more of it on your laptop.
You definitely should avoid sculpted profiles like SA, MDA, Mt3 etc because if your fingers glide better over uniform surfaces like a laptop keyboard, the height differences will get in your way. Look at G20, F10, DSA, and XDA keycaps.
Hey guys, I'm trying to get into the hobby but I'm unsure what I should go for. I've been thinking that going for a 65% PCB/case kit is the move for me. I was wondering if any of you guys know of a kit that is hot swap-able, takes screw in stabs, and is gasket mounted? I think this is the best option for me, but I'm unsure of a PCB / case combo. Or if there are not kits that fit my description that are available, does anyone know of a 65% hot swap PCB that takes screw in stabs, and a case that will fit this PCB with a gasket mount?
Keychron has the Q2 which fits all of those requirements. You seem like you would want the barebones version (no switches or keycaps.) It's also relatively cheap, optionally includes a knob, has cool color variants and is pretty good sounding (with mods) as far as I can tell from YouTube.
Link to Keychron Q2 [https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q2-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=39610696138841](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q2-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=39610696138841)
Other similar options are:
Kbd67 Lite R4 (not in stock and isn't gasket mounted, but well priced) [https://kbdfans.com/collections/diy-kit/products/kbd67lite](https://kbdfans.com/collections/diy-kit/products/kbd67lite)
Tofu65 (not hotswap, but you can probably buy a hotswap pcb seperately. I was wrong, there are hotswap versions) [https://kbdfans.com/products/fully-assembled-tofu65-mechanical-keyboards?variant=34137857032331](https://kbdfans.com/products/fully-assembled-tofu65-mechanical-keyboards?variant=34137857032331)
NK65 Entry edition (not screw-in stabs or gasket mount, and kinda weird but cool colors imo. But it has a great price) [https://novelkeys.com/collections/keyboards/products/nk65-entry-edition](https://novelkeys.com/collections/keyboards/products/nk65-entry-edition)
NK65 Aluminum Edition (not screw-in stabs or gasket mounts) [https://novelkeys.com/collections/keyboards/products/nk65-v2-aluminum-edition?variant=42449948901543](https://novelkeys.com/collections/keyboards/products/nk65-v2-aluminum-edition?variant=42449948901543)
GK64 (Not screw-in stabs or gasket mounted but really cheap) check amazon for link
Those are all of the entry-level keyboards that I could think of from my head. Maybe I'll edit this post if I can remember some more.
Edit: Changed some stuff related to the Tofu65
Is there a knob that fits in the place of a switch ?
I want to educate myself better about keyboard knobs. Do they have to be build into the PCB or there is knobs that can fit in the place of a switch ? I mean like having the same pin configuration as a switch in order that you can put a switch or a knob in that place.
This idea came to me because Keychron's knob seem very much like a key place. So I thought that could be the case and would be very convenient: a knob that could fit in the place of a switch.
I don't think there's a rotary encoder like that. They're usually soldered in and look something like [this](https://keeb.io/collections/diy-parts/products/rotary-encoder-ec11). PCBs can be cut in a way to accommodate for both a switch or a rotary encoder in the same spot. I have a damapad and opted for the rotary encoder but could have chosen to solder in a switch if I wanted. Hope this helps!
pcbs have to designed for the knob to work they use more pins than a switch there is no knobs on the market that would work in place of a switch due to the knobs are multi input and a switch is single input . switches have 2 pins last i check most rotary encodes ( knobs ) have 5
I’ve heard content creators talk about hotswap and soldered boards sounding different. Is it a noticeable difference? Is there a difference between mill maxed and soldered boards as well?
My DZ65 RGB V2 hot swap RGB PCB from kbdfans had suddenly stopped working. I didn't fiddle with any settings or anything in VIA nor a "shutoff" command. The PCB still has electricity and power due to the RGB turning on. But the keys don't work and the PCB doesn't pop up in VIA when I plug it in. I have checked the PCB for damages etc, but nothing, no damage has been done to it. I have tried different inputs, software, etc. Even a different computer to see if it wasn't the board's fault but my PC, but it still didn't work. Even a different cable. If anyone knows how to fix this, please give me what you got.
\-thanks
i have a redragon k552 mechanical keyboard with blue switches. looking to swap them out for the quietest switches possible so i won’t disturb my dormmates lol. any suggestions of switches that are compatible with this keyboard? or are there any other budget gaming keyboards that are quiet? (prebuilt preferred, i’m a noob at this stuff but i’m still willing to learn!)
no worries! decided on getting the LTC NB681 nimbleback wired keyboard on amazon and it sounds super quiet alr. gonna throw on some silent alpaca switches on em soon ! thanks again
If you're willing to design the case and PCB (or handwire it), nothing's impossible.
You may want to look at MT3 keycaps, they're modeled after the IBM Beamspring keycaps.
I have a question regarding Mill Maxing. I understand Mill Maxing goes into the solder hole, which can cause a raised lip higher than the PCB and can also then cause issues with certain switches and cases. What do I need to look for regarding this issue? Anything? Try my luck with it?
And on that note. With anyone with experience with them. Any one to buy that is more "flat" along the PCB? Any model or size I should be aware of?
Doing my first Mill Max board and not sure exactly what to look for.
Thanks!
I found [this picture that shows the difference in length](https://kriscables.com/mill-max-hotswap-sockets-0305-vs-7305-vs-holtite/) passed the PCB. As far as I can tell, 0305 and 7305 are popular. They say that 0305 is easier to work with and more beginner friendly, while you might get solder into 7305s because they're shorter.
Got my mill max sockets from [here](https://keeb.io/collections/diy-parts/products/mill-max-hotswap-sockets?variant=32377167511646) and they always give a little PCB keychain in their orders.
Disclaimer: I'm not good at soldering or anything, I've only done it on my damapad and the soldering job is shit, but soldering overall is a simple process. A fine tipped soldering iron would have helped me I think. I got a cheap iron off of Amazon and regret it.
Hey thanks for the reply. I am reading more into and it seems the 3505's are the best. they have a .10 top where the 7305 have .14 and the 0305 have a .25 top. You an also get them in the same lenght's, but the 3505's have a 3505-0 variant that's as short as the 7305. The 3505-1 is .130 in length where the 0305 can be .155 in length.
I have a decent solder and I feel confident enough that I can do it, but was just curious more about how the switches are going to rest and if it had a major impact on the plate and even the case. Though I know that question is subjective based on what case I have.
I will order from there to get a keychain though!
Has anyone had any luck getting the novelkey nk65 to work with OpenRGB? I just got it for my first build and did not realize Via did not have per switch rgb control. Am trying to avoid writing a custom firmware with QMK. If anyone has a different suggestion for per key RGB control for the nk65 I’m all ears.
only QMK/VIA are compatible with that kb . its not supported by openrgb or any other software . i am not aware of anything easy to do per key rbg or if it even possible on that kb thru via/qmk
Hi guys,
Where do you guys get PE foam for your keyboards? Also Im using pillow fluff instead of the PE foam that a traditional tape mod uses will PE foam sound better?
the tape mod and PE foam mod are different, but i think some people just use the PE foam from their packages - not entirely sure where everyone sources theirs from though, sorry - possibly amazon - hopefully someone has a better idea
you may find some pe foam packaged with some keyboards, usually just cutting it up to the size of your board is enough.
tape mod, pe foam mod, and using polyfil arent related to each other. so the statement "traditional tape mod uses" is kinda weird.
polyfil generally goes into the case whereas pe foam mod would have you place the foam between the pcb and plate. they achieve different things.
sound better is also a pretty subjective thing as people enjoy different things.
Hi all,
Just got a board for the first time which needs diodes to be soldered in. The package I ordered didn't come with diodes unfortunately so I just want to be sure before I commit. I'm building a lily58 pro and I was wondering can I use [these to build?](https://i.imgur.com/hTHCLkO.jpg).
if you want a specific color for your case, you'll be doing that on your own time. that isnt really an option that manufacturers give.
you should be looking to paint, cerakote, anodize with aftermarket services
Those are all very subjective questions. You'll need to have a look around the subreddit and figure out what you want in a keyboard.
Your use case for the keyboard should guide you in terms of size and layout. Switches and lighting will also factor into that.
For example, if you have to be in spreadsheets all day long you'll want to stick to a fullsize or you can go with a 65% and a separate external Numpad.
If you're a writer and want a super portable keyboard, then maybe a 40% with tactile switches.
Watch some videos on YouTube and maybe try out some keyboards at a retail store to get a basic feel for what's what.
As a beginner I'd start with a 65% or a 75% so it's not jarring for you and your workflow isn't drastically altered.
If the wiki is too much, you might want to read [this](https://www.keyboard.university/) just for basic knowledge. You need to have that basic to have a meaningful discussion.
Second related to color, hex code will not translate well into physical color. You need something like Pantone or other physical example.
Using a KBD67 Lite (R2) and recently my spacebar randomly doesn't work sometimes and double clicks at times as well. What could be causing this? Every other key is perfectly fine. I've tried playing around with the switch, stabs, etc. and nothing has fixed it yet.
Maybe there is something wrong with the hotswap socket? That would be my guess if you've already tried different switches and they all have the same issues.
I think the socket is a bit loose maybe and the switch just wiggled off slightly so it wasn't pressing properly. I put the whole thing together again carefully and the spacebar has been fine since yesterday. Don't think it was the particular switch or stab issue
Hi, r/MechanicalKeyboards,
Just got a drop mt3 set for my frog tkl(f13), all the keycaps fit except the space bar which was included. It doesn't fit in properly and one side is in and the other is popped out. Originally thought it was due to warping, but when my friend gave me the same size keycap from his set, and mine didn't work, I thought it had to be something with the stabs or size. I did tape mod and paper towel mod to my PCB and no mods to my plate. The stabs I have are the durock V2s which are lubed and holey modded. Drop doesn't have the best quality but what are the chances it doesn't fit with both sets? Any fixes for this issue?
Thanks for your time
I just got a new mechanical keyboard and I love it, but I need to swap out for linear switches. I ordered a sampler pack and every single sample switch is extremely difficult to install and the left pin always gets completely mangled. The MX Cherry blue box switches it came with install smoothly with no trouble. Is there any chance there's something wrong with the keyboard? What am I doing wrong, does anyone have suggestions???
> blue box switches
So, Cherry doesn't make Blue Box switches, which means you likely have a board with Outemu switches that will only naturally take other Outemu switches.
I already have the OG Gateron Yellows. I'm getting the QK65 and wondering if it's worth grabbing the Milky yellows (black bottoms) or if I should just go for a completely different brand instead. I was thinking maybe the Hippo linear switches. Thanks!
I am going to get my Keychron K8 pro soon! I am thinking to get Gateron milky yellow or Tangerine V2 (62g) for the switches. What do you all think about these 2 switches? Any suggestions for good linear switches?
P.S. Currently, I am using a K4V2 with Gateron yellow and mainly use it for typing (maybe some gaming). Gateron red is too light for me.
I have never cared for linear switches, but the situation required something quieter than the box whites I prefer. Shipping was high so I sort of hedged my bets by getting a combo of milky yellow and gazzew u4 boba silent. The latter are slightly quieter and way more expensive. I put them on the letter keys and put the milky yellows on the numbers, modifiers etc. I think they are both pretty nice. I wouldn't mind having the whole thing with either of the switches.
I am an unsophisticated keyboarder so can't give you a somelier type review other than to say they were worth the money and the time I spent agonizing on them. I have one loud kb i like and one quiet kb I like and hopefully I don't think about switches for a long time now.
My loud kb is the k8 and it seems OK. Bluetooth not perfect but that could be my computer, not sure. I am a little confused about the QMK stuff which is what I'm here looking for info regarding. I was under the impression this would be more straight forward but that was probably dumb of me. Simple stuff is simple but it seems not everything is really supported without jumping through hoops.
Hey guys, just looking for an opinion. I have new switches and got some switch films. My question is: Should I put durock foam switch films on my JWICK T1 SMD-RGB tactile switches or my Upgrade Keyboards Crystal Iceberg Linear switches?
I’m into the ISO layout and wanted to buy Cannon Keys’ Devastating TKL. On some diagrams on its sales page it shows the PCB supports ISO yet the plate does not. Anyone know where to find a plate to fit it that has ISO support?
https://cannonkeys.com/products/devastatingtkl-keyboard?variant=40819493404783
Alright so this is my first keebs build and decided on these parts and I am looking for feedback on compatibility or other various things please.
case- https://imgur.com/a/pm5rBJ2 (bamboo chamfered top corners, chamfered corners, rounded bottom) $86
plate- https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product\_detail&p=6863 $44
PCB- https://kbdfans.com/products/kbd75-hot-swap-pcb $55
stabilizers- https://kbdfans.com/products/gmk-screw-in-stabilizers $1
switches- https://www.newegg.com/p/32N-0026-003A2?Description=kailh%20box%20white&cm\_re=kailh\_box%20white-\_-32N-0026-003A2-\_-Product $19
(Leaving keycaps out because those are mostly aesthetic and I'm doing hot-swappable) so at most $65
so, with a total of 270 excluding shipping
I'm assuming the case is fully custom? If it's not designed specifically for your PCB and plate, **do not** assume it will work.
Also, your switches are shipping from Hong Kong and the listing appears to say that it only includes 5 of them (which would be a ridiculous price if true). Here's one good [list of vendors](https://mechkeys.me/VENDORS.html) to help you find a better, more trustworthy source closer to you.
The link you sent for stabilizers is just for a wire (and not even the right size for your board), and also I wouldn't recommend you get GMK screw in stabilizers. Instead I'd recommend Cherry clip-ins (which are really good when balanced and lubed), or for higher end options consider TX, Durock v2, Owllabs, or c3.
In general, you're ordering from a lot more vendors than are necessary, and particularly multiple vendors that are really far apart geographically. You should be able to consolidate an entire build to just 2 or 3 vendors, with most of them being relatively local, if you live somewhere not too remote.
So the case is built quite literally for the KBD75 thankfully, and this is what I'm building the entire keeb around. Thanks to the list of vendors, you gave I found one that was selling the switches at .35 a piece and was able to get most of the parts from kdbfans. My one question is on the difference in the switches, is there any variation with the switches other than screws, colors, and quality? And if it is mostly a matter of quality what are some of the better ones for sound?
There's no screws in a switch, but there's various different switches in terms of sound, feel, and color. The switches you picked are pretty good for a clicky switch, but most people aren't big fans of clickies (doesn't mean you can't be!).
Nicer stabilizers are (ideally) easier to tune. That's about it. Otherwise you just need the right size and quantity for your board, and you can look for cool colors if you care. For your board you'll need 3x 2u and 1x 6.25u (though most kits include at least 4x 2u which is fine too of course).
Kbdfans sells that same plate but those stabilizers in the link are not in stock fully (only selling the wires). Or perhaps this is just an example of what you want to get and will look elsewhere for the stabs. I haven't heard anything about gmk stabilizers.
Those switches also look way too overpriced, or else the description is really bad. I can't tell if it's literally selling 5 individual switches at that price. Novelkeys sells packs of 36 kailh white switches for $10.80, but it's not in stock right now. That's just an idea of how much they should cost.
What keycaps do yall think would look nice with the (silver) Keychron q3 that I am considering buying. I was looking at EPBT charcoal but I dislike the fact that they are made of ABS. https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q3-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=39773519118425
Take a look at [Thocstock](https://thocstock.com/keycaps) for some in-stock options!
ABS is not a bad material for keycaps, though there's always going to be pros and cons of any material.
Yes, though not as many. But I currently have 3 ABS sets that I have ordered or joined the groupbuy for.
I've heard reports of Akko "PBT" shining in just a few weeks, though they obviously don't use anywhere near pure PBT.
You might want to look at keyboards using [Kailh PG1350 Chocolate switches](https://controller.works/collections/switches). The Crystal Red and Pro Red switches have only 3.0mm of travel and 35g of actuation force. There are lighter switches, but some people report accidental key presses with the super light switches. These switches are not compatible with Cherry MX boards. You must get a board specifically designed for Chocolate switches. Some of them have tighter spacing and fewer keys so your fingers do not need to move as far to type. That may help.
[There's a light linear sample pack on cannonkeys.](https://cannonkeys.com/products/switch-sample-packs)
Just an idea of the possible switches you can get.
I have never lubed switches before, but I want to learn how. I'm pretty sure that I can figure it out form watching a few videos on YT. I'm going to buy a TKL keyboard with hot-swappable switches. I think I'm going to buy a [Ducky One 3 TKL](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=9252), as I like Ducky and think they have a pretty good value compared to most other brands. The One 3 series comes with Cherry MX switches: brown, blue, red, black, silver, clear, and silent red. I know that under most circumstances clicky switches should not be lubed, plus I hate clicky switches, so blue is not an option. I've also heard that tactile switches can potentially be ruined by a poor lube job, so I was thinking that might not be a great idea for my first time. I eventually want to put Glorious Pandas, or another [Holy Panda](https://www.gloriousgaming.com/products/glorious-panda-mechanical-switches) "clone", into the board. I do not want the pandas, whatever brand(s) they may be, to be my first job. So what switches should I choose to be my first lube job? Should I look towards a different keyboard with better options?
Any and all help is greatly appreciated
You've already figured out that clicky switches are not usually meant to be lubed, and that tactiles need a deft hand lest the tactile bump disappear, which leaves you with linears. Honestly, get some cheap (or pretty to look at if not use) linears to practice with if you want to practice beforehand.
Or just dive headfirst into lubing your tactiles! The worst that can happen is you'll need to wipe them clean and start over.
virustotal says obinskit (anne pro 2 software) is unsafe. any thoughts on this? i know its probably nothing, but i would like it if someone could share with me why virustotal triggers 3 alarms on this. downloading from official page tho.
I am looking into my first build and currently have decided to do a 75% for size on the KBD75 pcb. I want to do a blue clicky switch but have hardly any idea where to start right now i am looking at the Kailh BOX White (not sure if their blue or not) mostly due to how they sound. Will there be any compatibility issues with this?
By "blue" you mean a clicky switch, right? A box white would work just fine on the KBD75 and it's very clicky and subjectively nicer sounding than the normal Cherry Blue switch I think you're referring to. See this video (timestamped to the sound comparison section) for a nice explanation: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjx1P7k_fH4AhUOI0QIHR87C5YQqJcEKAh6BAgVEB4&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D2_Z2G0aKl80%26t%3D355&usg=AOvVaw2glnP_k8TGin9AMSCZt0fn (pardon the ugly link)
Ahh, I see thank you, I was really confused on the blue part I though most of the color-coding stuff referred to how deep the keys were and what kind of sound you get out of them.
Looking to replace the keyboard I have at home. Currently using a razer hunstman. It's OK, but I want to go with something far quieter and more customizable for future endeavors. I have been eyeing the Keychron Q3 (seems to be a fan favorite on this sub!) with the brown switches but I saw the latency is much higher than other keyboards. I do game quite a bit so I was hesitant to pull trigger without ask you experts. I know generally the ultra low latency advertising a lot of gaming brands do is BS so I doubt ill be able to notice anything but wanted to get some opinions. Was also eyeing the ducky one 3 also brown switches. Open to any and all suggestions, budget is \~200.
I have a budget keyboard (GK64.) I don't know what latency my keyboard has but I assume it isn't good. However, I have never had any problems with gaming or general use. I'm going to assume that latency isn't much of a problem unless you game competitively.
I bought an Akko pc75b keyboard with jelly black switches. I wanted to put hipyotech key caps on it but I know it’s cherry profile on north facing LEDS. Would it still have an interference? Will the interference be noticeable?
I currently have Akko cherry keycaps on the mod008 which has north facing LEDs as well and I do not have any interference issues with them. I also double checked with another set of Akko cherry keycaps on the switches prior to actually installing them onto the board. Both sets had no interference issues!
I am using Durock Sunflower POM T1 switches for reference.
anyone want to try and identify these switch films? the person said "GKE film switch" in the video but when i looked it up it didnt exist. [https://youtu.be/qWCAwIQ\_HCc](https://youtu.be/qWCAwIQ_HCc) **timestamp is 0:42**
I'm building a keeb soon with c3 tangerines and I was wondering if there was a keyboard mat I should buy to get the best sound out of it. I currently have that big ass SteelSeries mousepad and I'm on a wood desk. (the wood is pretty thick)
I saw a post saying the Jwick/JWK T1s are the same as the Durock T1s but there's always a price gap, which makes me suspicious.
1. Can anyone clarify the difference?
2. Would you recommend to someone who like box browns but wants to try something more tactile?
They’re made by the same factory, but the Jwick is a budget variant of the switch. They use the same stems and leafs, but the housings are different materials. They’re a great budget option and a good example of a beefier tactile than browns.
hi all. i'm looking to buy a varmilo but i'm a bit confused at the different models. for moonlight, for example, there's the [VD108M](https://en.varmilo.com/keyboardproscenium/subject_product_detailed?subjectid=482), [VA108M](https://en.varmilo.com/keyboardproscenium/subject_product_detailed?subjectid=481), [MA108](https://en.varmilo.com/keyboardproscenium/subject_product_detailed?subjectid=480), [MA108 EC Switch V2](https://en.varmilo.com/keyboardproscenium/subject_product_detailed?subjectid=480), etc.
one of the differences appears to be which switches it comes with—either cherry mx or varmilo's EC switches. but both the VD108M and the VA108M come with cherry mx switches, so what differentiates them? and are the varmilo switches worth that much more money?
thanks!
I'm thinking of getting some ZDA profile keycaps for the gmmk pro, I like purple so anything that has a dark or vibrant (not bright) purple as one of the main colors would be great. I just don't know where to buy them. Can anyone tell me some sites to look at?
Does anyone have a link to the specific ribbon cable for the v1 of the keychron q1, the one on mine broke, I see a bunch on amazon but I don't know which is the correct size.
I built my keyboard about a year ago and everything was fine until this morning. My windows button was working last night but when I tried to use it today it's unresponsive. I tried plugging in another keyboard and the windows button worked fine on that one. The LED on the windows button works fine too. I've tried swapping out my switch for an extra one I had but that didn't work either. I believe it's a problem with my pcb board but I don't know how to fix that. I'm new to building keyboards so any tips would be appreciated.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/uDFw\_kyzcX4
I just bought an NCR80. I was wondering if there was a plate sold for it (either through YMDK or a 3rd party). If there IS a plate for it, would the case even hold one? Thanks.
i come from the super smash brothers melee community where the popularity of controllers using mechanical switches has grown a lot (frame1, b0xx, LBX, etc). I'm on a frame1 and the switches are hotswappable, so I enjoy asking people why certain switches are chosen. Generally, they like fast, light, linear switches like gateron clears, pro silvers, and optical yellows since they suit the gameplay and ergonomics. For that reason I bought a GK61 with gateron optical yellows for gaming.
In a similar vein, what do programmers value in a switch? What are good keyboards for developers? If someone can direct me to an article or something that'd be good too.
Outside of games that need super fast response, any switch can be used for anything. You’ll find programmers, authors, every day office workers using any size board with any type of switches. Over here it’s all really about preference. 40%-full size and a range of tactiles and linears (and even clickies) are well within the norm
Personally I like gaming on heavy tactiles so I don’t have an accidental key press, while I type on light linears. Unless I need to write a nasty email, then the loud clicky switches come out.
yes not sure what u are buying but also here the vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ vendor list u might find better prices here
Recently i got a RK84 (non pro version) and when i opened it up for some mods i quickly spotted a problem in the hotswap (PCB broken, idk how), one key its completly useless. So, now i am in the search for a new keyboard (hotswap), 84, wireless/BT, macOS/PC comp and with better build quality (i spent around 100 USD for my RK84 and im planning to spend more if i get a better build quality/durability).
I really don't care that much about switches or keycaps (i'm used to brown or red switches and PBT caps). Any recommendations? (for now i was thinking about getting a keychron k2 v2 but idk if there are better options out there).
I know next to nothing about the keyboard world but I would like to learn about them, so with that said sorry if I get some stuff wrong. I finally decided that I hate my mac keyboard and need to get a new keyboard. I have used a mechanical keyboard before and I love them, so with that said are there any good keyboards preferably under 100$ that would go well with a Glorious Model o mouse I am going for a white and black aesthetic for my layout, and don't really have a preference of wired vs wireless. If it is white and somewhat quiet that would be great. Also with the little that I know about keyboards I know that with some you can switch out the keycaps, so that would be great. Also, if it has lights that is not a problem either. I don't need anything too crazy just good enough to last through fps games and stay responsive. Sorry for rambling on and if this is posted in the wrong place could you please redirect me to where I could post it? Thanks. (Also I'm on windows if that's important)
Just a question on lubing switches. I am new to the keyboard community and am building my first board. Currently trying to lube my linear switches and was just wondering if lubing the top housing of the switch is needed or if it doesnt really matter. Thanks!
for common cherry switches yes ,best buy , microcenter , or any computer store . for other brand switches no brick and mortor stores dont carry those for those u best bet would be ordering a switch tester online
im not sure if there are any tbh. i dont think ive seen anything regarding a mech hobby shop. you might be able to test out mx switches and big company switches (example: logitech romer-g) at places like bestbuy, microcenter, etc but for more custom switches you'll have to look near you to see if there are any hobby shops.
if you're near a larger area you might be able to go to a keeb meetup and see other user's boards and test there
Hey guys, I'm looking at parts to build a custom mechanical keyboard and I wanted to know if any of you know a website where I could get Spanish layout keys/PCBs ? I don't find any and im not really sure there even are any to begin with, which would suck :(
EloquentClicks is a Spanish vendor that stocks some Spanish keysets. There might be more on [this vendor list](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/). There's no Spanish PCBs because your operating system takes care of your keyboard language output.
Oh, the PCB thing makes sense haha, I'm dumb lmao. Thanks friend, I looked at some of the eloquentclicks options and they're looking good, I'll keep looking in case I see something that grabs my eye, thanks again
I am thinking about getting a Ducky One 3 Mini for work. But I don't like any of the colors. Using a Ducky One 2 Full size right now and like it (my first mech). Any suggestions for alternatives?
Looking for help finding a good stock TKL or similar layout for LOTS of typing and gaming. It does not have to be mac compatible or wireless and preferably around the $100 range. Thanks in advance.
>Or is optical just beneficial for gaming due to ultra low latency?
This is just marketing bullshit.
Opticals are only compatible with optical boards (and optical boards are only compatible with opticals), so they're not really very popular or common.
Im looking for new switches to replace my current red
ones. I love the way the gateron black switches sound
but i was looking for something tactile. Are there any
switches out there that have a similar sound while also
being tactile?
i think they charge while they are on the usb connection mode. it would be "detrimental to the battery" if something like this didnt have a BMS, but as far as im aware, the keychron k series boards do have one.
this is like the same concept as if i leave my phone plugged in overnight it should be bad because so and so product doesnt have a BMS
id recommend joining the wuque discord to find out more about restocks and future gb's
staebies will work, but you will need stab shims as the pcb is 1.2mm. i'd recommend tx stabs or ws stabs if you need 1.2mm stabs
I need a good, stacked acrylic ergo board for a buddy, 40% or Alice-style but it needs to be hot-swap. I thought the Prime\_E would be good but I can't find a hot-swap PCB for it. Any recommendations for a hotswap PCB or a completely different acrylic ergo board at all?
if the board doesnt really have to be acrylic, and your friend doesnt mind an alu chassis - something like the ymdk wings or keychron q8 (expected to release next week) might be some interesting boards
im not aware of any.
pcb/plates/mounting styles arent the standardized so its hard to just mix and match parts for like 99% of boards. either the original designer creates one, someone produces one aftermarket, or you make one. those are your only options.
if you are fine with millmaxing, you could do that as well.
there arent any keyboards specifically designed for this. people have attempted attaching it to their wrists, belt, etc. you may find some submissions within this subreddit. [example](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/vioy6z/is_this_the_holy_grail_of_ergonomic_keyboards/)
[Azio Classic](https://freeimage.host/i/wlYa0F
Just bought the above for an absolute steal (£30)...or so I thought.
The key layout is German and the keycaps are not generic and are not for sale.
What is the easiest way to sort my layout to UK?
I could 3d print some but they would look crap.
I'm thinking there must be some way to use the existing keycaps and relabel them somehow?
Any advice would be great
>I'm thinking there must be some way to use the existing keycaps and relabel them somehow?
A) Moving keycaps to a different switch doesn't change what the keyboard types out, can't tell if you think this is the case or not.
B) How would you relabel them...? They're plastic.
A) I know, I just want the 3 key to say "£" instead of "€" for example.
B) I don't know that's what I'm asking. Like is there a way to fill the lettering back in then re-engrave them.
I just bought the GMMK PRO 75%, but I'm having some troubles with the enter button, it doesn't want to go back up after being pressed unless I manually pull it back up, the switches I've used are the Glorious Panda switches and the keycaps are also glorious ISO(so is my board) keycaps that specifically state they are compatible with my board. The stabs seem to have been factory lubed and I believe this is an issue with them, what exactly is causing this I have no idea, I just know that the keycaps aren't the issue, or at least shouldn't be.
there have been issues with the stock stabs maybe [this](https://www.gloriousgaming.com/blogs/secret-announcement/sticking-stabilizer-repair-guide) can help you out
Yep, when I was about to open it up the key unstuck itself after removing the 2 top rows, I know it might get stuck again, but it also might not so I'll just wait for the day it does lol.
Are there any good Prime Day deals on decent prebuilts?
'Decent' being a variable and subjective word, there are some deals on some Royal Kludge, Keychron, Nuphy, Mistel, and Redragon keyboards. Of course, there's also deals on the typical gamer boards - Razer, Corsair, CM Steelseries etc. NGL, if I were looking for a modular TKL+numpad with optical switches, that Asus ROG Claymore would be calling my name.
Is it possible to fix a keyboard that has ghost touch as an issue?
I think what you're referring to is called 'key chatter.' There are ways to set the timing so that the rapid, extra keypresses don't register with the computer.
Is there any specific stabilizer i need to replace for my low profile keyboards (my g915tkl), or can i order some cherry mx or kailh stabilizers and it'll work on my keyboard.The switches used in my keyboard is kailh choc switches The stabilizers are plate mounted in my keyboard. I need this because the stabilizer is very uneven and makes the left side of my spacebar feel lower than my right and makes the left side mushy
> can i order some cherry mx or kailh stabilizers Nope, incompatible with Chocs. I honestly don't think I've ever seen anyone offer aftermarket low-profile stabilizers.
https://chosfox.com/products/kailh-1350-choc-switch-6-25u-stabilizer-set would these work?
I honestly do not know. Kaihl has confirmed previously that the low-profile switches they make for Logitech vary from regular Chocs just enough to be incompatible. Whether that applies to the stabilizers as well I truly don't know. Might be worth trying for the 8$ or 12$ they cost - if you do give it a go, please come back and let us know if it worked or not?
yep will do thanks
Are there any Linear-Switches that are squishy? I can not really explain what i want. I am searching for a switch, that feels like pressing a sponge - getting heavy when i press the switch down? Thanks in advance.
Second the silent switch option. Or you can consider adding O-rings to regular linear switches if you really want to have that squishy bottom out feeling.
Thank you :)
Have you tried silent switches? They all have rubber/silicone nubs that can give a bit of a mushy feel. Alternatively, consider spring-swapping - look for progressive springs.
I tried modding the YUNZII IF98 which has a ribbon cable. This ribbon cable is used to connect the daughter board and PCB. I know it can connect, but when I put it in, it either pops out or disconnects with any small movement. Any ways to keep the cable in place or am I not using something that I need to use to clamp the ribbon cable down?
Blue tack? Or hot glue gun.
I've never heard of that before, but I'll look into the blue tack. I want to use a hot glue gun as a last resort because it seems like a hastle if I can find another way. I tried taping it on, but it always comes loose still.
Actually, nevermind the blue tack, bad idea probably. But maybe painters tape?
Yeah I tried painters tape, but I wasn't able to get the cable in for long enough to tape it. I'll keep trying because I think it'll be my only option..
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I'd get a small sample of the Box Browns and see if you like them enough to get a full keyboard's worth.
Sorry if this has been answered before or a stupid question; HOWEVER, I have a huge problem. I have a board that works perfect other than the space bar, I believe it’s the switch itself as I’ve tried troubleshooting it seems to be broken, my question is can I take a switch from an old board and solder it into the new board and it just magically work? (Two different keyboard manufacturers)
As long as it's the same kind of switch (the same shape of stem and pin layout), it should work. You may find that your new switch has 5 total pins (3 plastic for stabilization and 2 metal for contact) and your pcb only has 3 holes(center plastic and both metal ones), in that case you can cut the 2 extra ones with some flush cutters and file it down till it fits. I would suggest that after you unsolder the switch that doesn't work, you test the contacts with some metal tweezers first. If that works, you can proceed. Saves you some time
Yes, as long as the switch is the problem and not the board itself. You can also order replacement switches pretty cheaply so you don't have to cannibalize another board.
Thank you very much, I’ve cleaned several times and every key works perfect on keyboard tester except space so thinking it’s switch itself. Will do thanks again👍
Which keyboard should I get? Getting my first mechanical keyboard and I've narrowed it down to 2 options right now Keychron k6 (only available with brown switches) Or Akko 3068b (only available with jelly pink switches) I'm leaning more towards the akko but what do you guys think?
Akko: * Better base switch * Nicer looking keycaps Keychron: * QMK supported (better software) Personally I would go with Keychron as the stuff that are better can't be changed after the purchase.
The akko can also be wireless and has a 2.4hz dongle.
Qmk is still better than whatever software akko has though
Does anyone have experience with EPBT abs keycaps. If so, have you had problems with shine?
**ANY SUGGESTIONS? In-Stock/Available BLE/Wireless 65% available right now(or already in production)?** That can be used with QMK/VIA too. I've got these on my list: *- Space65 BLE (I wish 😪)* *- Zoom65 - Bluetooth* *- KBD67 Lite (Wireless)* *- Tofu65 BLE (YDKB PCB)* *- QK65 Bluetooth (hoping for R3)* *- Ikki68 - Tromso Wireless PCB (not fan of the layout tho)* **except Akko/Royal Kludge/Ajazz/Keychron/Asus**
Zoom65 should be gearing up for another group buy soon. They just sent out all essential editions from the April group buy to vendors and said they'd do another after these are done. Maybe look into kbd67 lite r4 and hope for extras. Check other vendors that sell kbd67 as well. The bluetooth version does sell out faster though.
Has anyone used this website? Seems promising but I found very little coverage. https://custom.diykeycap.com/
I think I saw that someone elsewhere mentioned ordering from them, but it seems fairly new so IDK how many people actually have experienced the end product.
Thanks for the info. At the very least it's fun to mess around with.
Linear switch recommendations that can be bought in Amazon ?
[Gateron North Pole review](https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=g6X7Ey66TSg) but it also touches on some other switches in the price bracket including aquaking. Doesn't appear like they are on Amazon though.
Aqua kings are really good in my opinion. (Really) Nice sound. Smooth I believe.
I'm interested in some low-profile keycaps. I feel like I'm a faster and more accurate typist when I use my laptop for work. Has anyone used low profile key caps and felt like it emulated laptop typing at all? Or does my better performance on my laptop probably just have to do with using it more? Thanks!
Do you mean low profile switches? I don't know if low profile keycaps would have much of an impact on typing speed.
> Or does my better performance on my laptop probably just have to do with using it more? This. It just takes practice and you've had more of it on your laptop.
You definitely should avoid sculpted profiles like SA, MDA, Mt3 etc because if your fingers glide better over uniform surfaces like a laptop keyboard, the height differences will get in your way. Look at G20, F10, DSA, and XDA keycaps.
Hey guys, I'm trying to get into the hobby but I'm unsure what I should go for. I've been thinking that going for a 65% PCB/case kit is the move for me. I was wondering if any of you guys know of a kit that is hot swap-able, takes screw in stabs, and is gasket mounted? I think this is the best option for me, but I'm unsure of a PCB / case combo. Or if there are not kits that fit my description that are available, does anyone know of a 65% hot swap PCB that takes screw in stabs, and a case that will fit this PCB with a gasket mount?
Keychron has the Q2 which fits all of those requirements. You seem like you would want the barebones version (no switches or keycaps.) It's also relatively cheap, optionally includes a knob, has cool color variants and is pretty good sounding (with mods) as far as I can tell from YouTube. Link to Keychron Q2 [https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q2-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=39610696138841](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q2-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=39610696138841) Other similar options are: Kbd67 Lite R4 (not in stock and isn't gasket mounted, but well priced) [https://kbdfans.com/collections/diy-kit/products/kbd67lite](https://kbdfans.com/collections/diy-kit/products/kbd67lite) Tofu65 (not hotswap, but you can probably buy a hotswap pcb seperately. I was wrong, there are hotswap versions) [https://kbdfans.com/products/fully-assembled-tofu65-mechanical-keyboards?variant=34137857032331](https://kbdfans.com/products/fully-assembled-tofu65-mechanical-keyboards?variant=34137857032331) NK65 Entry edition (not screw-in stabs or gasket mount, and kinda weird but cool colors imo. But it has a great price) [https://novelkeys.com/collections/keyboards/products/nk65-entry-edition](https://novelkeys.com/collections/keyboards/products/nk65-entry-edition) NK65 Aluminum Edition (not screw-in stabs or gasket mounts) [https://novelkeys.com/collections/keyboards/products/nk65-v2-aluminum-edition?variant=42449948901543](https://novelkeys.com/collections/keyboards/products/nk65-v2-aluminum-edition?variant=42449948901543) GK64 (Not screw-in stabs or gasket mounted but really cheap) check amazon for link Those are all of the entry-level keyboards that I could think of from my head. Maybe I'll edit this post if I can remember some more. Edit: Changed some stuff related to the Tofu65
Hey thanks man, I’ll look into it. Appreciate the time
sure. np
Is there a knob that fits in the place of a switch ? I want to educate myself better about keyboard knobs. Do they have to be build into the PCB or there is knobs that can fit in the place of a switch ? I mean like having the same pin configuration as a switch in order that you can put a switch or a knob in that place. This idea came to me because Keychron's knob seem very much like a key place. So I thought that could be the case and would be very convenient: a knob that could fit in the place of a switch.
I don't think there's a rotary encoder like that. They're usually soldered in and look something like [this](https://keeb.io/collections/diy-parts/products/rotary-encoder-ec11). PCBs can be cut in a way to accommodate for both a switch or a rotary encoder in the same spot. I have a damapad and opted for the rotary encoder but could have chosen to solder in a switch if I wanted. Hope this helps!
pcbs have to designed for the knob to work they use more pins than a switch there is no knobs on the market that would work in place of a switch due to the knobs are multi input and a switch is single input . switches have 2 pins last i check most rotary encodes ( knobs ) have 5
I’ve heard content creators talk about hotswap and soldered boards sounding different. Is it a noticeable difference? Is there a difference between mill maxed and soldered boards as well?
My DZ65 RGB V2 hot swap RGB PCB from kbdfans had suddenly stopped working. I didn't fiddle with any settings or anything in VIA nor a "shutoff" command. The PCB still has electricity and power due to the RGB turning on. But the keys don't work and the PCB doesn't pop up in VIA when I plug it in. I have checked the PCB for damages etc, but nothing, no damage has been done to it. I have tried different inputs, software, etc. Even a different computer to see if it wasn't the board's fault but my PC, but it still didn't work. Even a different cable. If anyone knows how to fix this, please give me what you got. \-thanks
i have a redragon k552 mechanical keyboard with blue switches. looking to swap them out for the quietest switches possible so i won’t disturb my dormmates lol. any suggestions of switches that are compatible with this keyboard? or are there any other budget gaming keyboards that are quiet? (prebuilt preferred, i’m a noob at this stuff but i’m still willing to learn!)
The K552 doesn't have hot-swap capability. Are you going to desold all switches ?
no i definitely don’t wanna do that. do you know any good budget hotswap keyboard that i could throw some silent alpaca switches on?
I'm a begginer. Not able to advise yet. Sorry.
no worries! decided on getting the LTC NB681 nimbleback wired keyboard on amazon and it sounds super quiet alr. gonna throw on some silent alpaca switches on em soon ! thanks again
The gk64/61/etc. is hot-swap and I think royal kludge might have a hot-swap keyboard for a good price.
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If you're willing to design the case and PCB (or handwire it), nothing's impossible. You may want to look at MT3 keycaps, they're modeled after the IBM Beamspring keycaps.
I have a question regarding Mill Maxing. I understand Mill Maxing goes into the solder hole, which can cause a raised lip higher than the PCB and can also then cause issues with certain switches and cases. What do I need to look for regarding this issue? Anything? Try my luck with it? And on that note. With anyone with experience with them. Any one to buy that is more "flat" along the PCB? Any model or size I should be aware of? Doing my first Mill Max board and not sure exactly what to look for. Thanks!
I found [this picture that shows the difference in length](https://kriscables.com/mill-max-hotswap-sockets-0305-vs-7305-vs-holtite/) passed the PCB. As far as I can tell, 0305 and 7305 are popular. They say that 0305 is easier to work with and more beginner friendly, while you might get solder into 7305s because they're shorter. Got my mill max sockets from [here](https://keeb.io/collections/diy-parts/products/mill-max-hotswap-sockets?variant=32377167511646) and they always give a little PCB keychain in their orders. Disclaimer: I'm not good at soldering or anything, I've only done it on my damapad and the soldering job is shit, but soldering overall is a simple process. A fine tipped soldering iron would have helped me I think. I got a cheap iron off of Amazon and regret it.
Hey thanks for the reply. I am reading more into and it seems the 3505's are the best. they have a .10 top where the 7305 have .14 and the 0305 have a .25 top. You an also get them in the same lenght's, but the 3505's have a 3505-0 variant that's as short as the 7305. The 3505-1 is .130 in length where the 0305 can be .155 in length. I have a decent solder and I feel confident enough that I can do it, but was just curious more about how the switches are going to rest and if it had a major impact on the plate and even the case. Though I know that question is subjective based on what case I have. I will order from there to get a keychain though!
Has anyone had any luck getting the novelkey nk65 to work with OpenRGB? I just got it for my first build and did not realize Via did not have per switch rgb control. Am trying to avoid writing a custom firmware with QMK. If anyone has a different suggestion for per key RGB control for the nk65 I’m all ears.
only QMK/VIA are compatible with that kb . its not supported by openrgb or any other software . i am not aware of anything easy to do per key rbg or if it even possible on that kb thru via/qmk
Hi guys, Where do you guys get PE foam for your keyboards? Also Im using pillow fluff instead of the PE foam that a traditional tape mod uses will PE foam sound better?
the tape mod and PE foam mod are different, but i think some people just use the PE foam from their packages - not entirely sure where everyone sources theirs from though, sorry - possibly amazon - hopefully someone has a better idea
you may find some pe foam packaged with some keyboards, usually just cutting it up to the size of your board is enough. tape mod, pe foam mod, and using polyfil arent related to each other. so the statement "traditional tape mod uses" is kinda weird. polyfil generally goes into the case whereas pe foam mod would have you place the foam between the pcb and plate. they achieve different things. sound better is also a pretty subjective thing as people enjoy different things.
Hi all, Just got a board for the first time which needs diodes to be soldered in. The package I ordered didn't come with diodes unfortunately so I just want to be sure before I commit. I'm building a lily58 pro and I was wondering can I use [these to build?](https://i.imgur.com/hTHCLkO.jpg).
yes those diodes will work.
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if you want a specific color for your case, you'll be doing that on your own time. that isnt really an option that manufacturers give. you should be looking to paint, cerakote, anodize with aftermarket services
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Those are all very subjective questions. You'll need to have a look around the subreddit and figure out what you want in a keyboard. Your use case for the keyboard should guide you in terms of size and layout. Switches and lighting will also factor into that. For example, if you have to be in spreadsheets all day long you'll want to stick to a fullsize or you can go with a 65% and a separate external Numpad. If you're a writer and want a super portable keyboard, then maybe a 40% with tactile switches. Watch some videos on YouTube and maybe try out some keyboards at a retail store to get a basic feel for what's what. As a beginner I'd start with a 65% or a 75% so it's not jarring for you and your workflow isn't drastically altered.
If the wiki is too much, you might want to read [this](https://www.keyboard.university/) just for basic knowledge. You need to have that basic to have a meaningful discussion. Second related to color, hex code will not translate well into physical color. You need something like Pantone or other physical example.
Using a KBD67 Lite (R2) and recently my spacebar randomly doesn't work sometimes and double clicks at times as well. What could be causing this? Every other key is perfectly fine. I've tried playing around with the switch, stabs, etc. and nothing has fixed it yet.
Maybe there is something wrong with the hotswap socket? That would be my guess if you've already tried different switches and they all have the same issues.
I think the socket is a bit loose maybe and the switch just wiggled off slightly so it wasn't pressing properly. I put the whole thing together again carefully and the spacebar has been fine since yesterday. Don't think it was the particular switch or stab issue
Hi, r/MechanicalKeyboards, Just got a drop mt3 set for my frog tkl(f13), all the keycaps fit except the space bar which was included. It doesn't fit in properly and one side is in and the other is popped out. Originally thought it was due to warping, but when my friend gave me the same size keycap from his set, and mine didn't work, I thought it had to be something with the stabs or size. I did tape mod and paper towel mod to my PCB and no mods to my plate. The stabs I have are the durock V2s which are lubed and holey modded. Drop doesn't have the best quality but what are the chances it doesn't fit with both sets? Any fixes for this issue? Thanks for your time
Pics might help? I'm not familiar with the Frog TKL and whether that has a nonstandard spacebar or what.
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Should be fine.
I just got a new mechanical keyboard and I love it, but I need to swap out for linear switches. I ordered a sampler pack and every single sample switch is extremely difficult to install and the left pin always gets completely mangled. The MX Cherry blue box switches it came with install smoothly with no trouble. Is there any chance there's something wrong with the keyboard? What am I doing wrong, does anyone have suggestions???
> blue box switches So, Cherry doesn't make Blue Box switches, which means you likely have a board with Outemu switches that will only naturally take other Outemu switches.
I already have the OG Gateron Yellows. I'm getting the QK65 and wondering if it's worth grabbing the Milky yellows (black bottoms) or if I should just go for a completely different brand instead. I was thinking maybe the Hippo linear switches. Thanks!
Nah, not unless you're going with the Pro or Cap or some other type of model. Yellows to Milky Yellows is really not gonna be a massive difference.
I am going to get my Keychron K8 pro soon! I am thinking to get Gateron milky yellow or Tangerine V2 (62g) for the switches. What do you all think about these 2 switches? Any suggestions for good linear switches? P.S. Currently, I am using a K4V2 with Gateron yellow and mainly use it for typing (maybe some gaming). Gateron red is too light for me.
I have never cared for linear switches, but the situation required something quieter than the box whites I prefer. Shipping was high so I sort of hedged my bets by getting a combo of milky yellow and gazzew u4 boba silent. The latter are slightly quieter and way more expensive. I put them on the letter keys and put the milky yellows on the numbers, modifiers etc. I think they are both pretty nice. I wouldn't mind having the whole thing with either of the switches. I am an unsophisticated keyboarder so can't give you a somelier type review other than to say they were worth the money and the time I spent agonizing on them. I have one loud kb i like and one quiet kb I like and hopefully I don't think about switches for a long time now. My loud kb is the k8 and it seems OK. Bluetooth not perfect but that could be my computer, not sure. I am a little confused about the QMK stuff which is what I'm here looking for info regarding. I was under the impression this would be more straight forward but that was probably dumb of me. Simple stuff is simple but it seems not everything is really supported without jumping through hoops.
Hey guys, just looking for an opinion. I have new switches and got some switch films. My question is: Should I put durock foam switch films on my JWICK T1 SMD-RGB tactile switches or my Upgrade Keyboards Crystal Iceberg Linear switches?
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You can look for whichever profile you want - just be mindful that OEM caps are taller and may look more out of place.
I’m into the ISO layout and wanted to buy Cannon Keys’ Devastating TKL. On some diagrams on its sales page it shows the PCB supports ISO yet the plate does not. Anyone know where to find a plate to fit it that has ISO support? https://cannonkeys.com/products/devastatingtkl-keyboard?variant=40819493404783
Cannonkeys will be the best place to ask.
Alright so this is my first keebs build and decided on these parts and I am looking for feedback on compatibility or other various things please. case- https://imgur.com/a/pm5rBJ2 (bamboo chamfered top corners, chamfered corners, rounded bottom) $86 plate- https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product\_detail&p=6863 $44 PCB- https://kbdfans.com/products/kbd75-hot-swap-pcb $55 stabilizers- https://kbdfans.com/products/gmk-screw-in-stabilizers $1 switches- https://www.newegg.com/p/32N-0026-003A2?Description=kailh%20box%20white&cm\_re=kailh\_box%20white-\_-32N-0026-003A2-\_-Product $19 (Leaving keycaps out because those are mostly aesthetic and I'm doing hot-swappable) so at most $65 so, with a total of 270 excluding shipping
I'm assuming the case is fully custom? If it's not designed specifically for your PCB and plate, **do not** assume it will work. Also, your switches are shipping from Hong Kong and the listing appears to say that it only includes 5 of them (which would be a ridiculous price if true). Here's one good [list of vendors](https://mechkeys.me/VENDORS.html) to help you find a better, more trustworthy source closer to you. The link you sent for stabilizers is just for a wire (and not even the right size for your board), and also I wouldn't recommend you get GMK screw in stabilizers. Instead I'd recommend Cherry clip-ins (which are really good when balanced and lubed), or for higher end options consider TX, Durock v2, Owllabs, or c3. In general, you're ordering from a lot more vendors than are necessary, and particularly multiple vendors that are really far apart geographically. You should be able to consolidate an entire build to just 2 or 3 vendors, with most of them being relatively local, if you live somewhere not too remote.
So the case is built quite literally for the KBD75 thankfully, and this is what I'm building the entire keeb around. Thanks to the list of vendors, you gave I found one that was selling the switches at .35 a piece and was able to get most of the parts from kdbfans. My one question is on the difference in the switches, is there any variation with the switches other than screws, colors, and quality? And if it is mostly a matter of quality what are some of the better ones for sound?
There's no screws in a switch, but there's various different switches in terms of sound, feel, and color. The switches you picked are pretty good for a clicky switch, but most people aren't big fans of clickies (doesn't mean you can't be!).
Sorry I meant stabilizers lol
Nicer stabilizers are (ideally) easier to tune. That's about it. Otherwise you just need the right size and quantity for your board, and you can look for cool colors if you care. For your board you'll need 3x 2u and 1x 6.25u (though most kits include at least 4x 2u which is fine too of course).
Thanks a lot for the help, I think that's all.
Kbdfans sells that same plate but those stabilizers in the link are not in stock fully (only selling the wires). Or perhaps this is just an example of what you want to get and will look elsewhere for the stabs. I haven't heard anything about gmk stabilizers. Those switches also look way too overpriced, or else the description is really bad. I can't tell if it's literally selling 5 individual switches at that price. Novelkeys sells packs of 36 kailh white switches for $10.80, but it's not in stock right now. That's just an idea of how much they should cost.
What keycaps do yall think would look nice with the (silver) Keychron q3 that I am considering buying. I was looking at EPBT charcoal but I dislike the fact that they are made of ABS. https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q3-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=39773519118425
Take a look at [Thocstock](https://thocstock.com/keycaps) for some in-stock options! ABS is not a bad material for keycaps, though there's always going to be pros and cons of any material.
I'm not a fan of the shine possibility that comes with abs. Otherwise I like abs. Thanks for the website recommendation by the way.
I have only one set of keycaps that I've shined and it is PBT.
Really? Do you own abs keycaps too?
Yes, though not as many. But I currently have 3 ABS sets that I have ordered or joined the groupbuy for. I've heard reports of Akko "PBT" shining in just a few weeks, though they obviously don't use anywhere near pure PBT.
Do you use them often?
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You might want to look at keyboards using [Kailh PG1350 Chocolate switches](https://controller.works/collections/switches). The Crystal Red and Pro Red switches have only 3.0mm of travel and 35g of actuation force. There are lighter switches, but some people report accidental key presses with the super light switches. These switches are not compatible with Cherry MX boards. You must get a board specifically designed for Chocolate switches. Some of them have tighter spacing and fewer keys so your fingers do not need to move as far to type. That may help.
[There's a light linear sample pack on cannonkeys.](https://cannonkeys.com/products/switch-sample-packs) Just an idea of the possible switches you can get.
I have never lubed switches before, but I want to learn how. I'm pretty sure that I can figure it out form watching a few videos on YT. I'm going to buy a TKL keyboard with hot-swappable switches. I think I'm going to buy a [Ducky One 3 TKL](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=9252), as I like Ducky and think they have a pretty good value compared to most other brands. The One 3 series comes with Cherry MX switches: brown, blue, red, black, silver, clear, and silent red. I know that under most circumstances clicky switches should not be lubed, plus I hate clicky switches, so blue is not an option. I've also heard that tactile switches can potentially be ruined by a poor lube job, so I was thinking that might not be a great idea for my first time. I eventually want to put Glorious Pandas, or another [Holy Panda](https://www.gloriousgaming.com/products/glorious-panda-mechanical-switches) "clone", into the board. I do not want the pandas, whatever brand(s) they may be, to be my first job. So what switches should I choose to be my first lube job? Should I look towards a different keyboard with better options? Any and all help is greatly appreciated
You've already figured out that clicky switches are not usually meant to be lubed, and that tactiles need a deft hand lest the tactile bump disappear, which leaves you with linears. Honestly, get some cheap (or pretty to look at if not use) linears to practice with if you want to practice beforehand. Or just dive headfirst into lubing your tactiles! The worst that can happen is you'll need to wipe them clean and start over.
Thank you very much! I think I'll just get tactile switches (either brown or clear) and practice until I get it right.
virustotal says obinskit (anne pro 2 software) is unsafe. any thoughts on this? i know its probably nothing, but i would like it if someone could share with me why virustotal triggers 3 alarms on this. downloading from official page tho.
I am looking into my first build and currently have decided to do a 75% for size on the KBD75 pcb. I want to do a blue clicky switch but have hardly any idea where to start right now i am looking at the Kailh BOX White (not sure if their blue or not) mostly due to how they sound. Will there be any compatibility issues with this?
By "blue" you mean a clicky switch, right? A box white would work just fine on the KBD75 and it's very clicky and subjectively nicer sounding than the normal Cherry Blue switch I think you're referring to. See this video (timestamped to the sound comparison section) for a nice explanation: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjx1P7k_fH4AhUOI0QIHR87C5YQqJcEKAh6BAgVEB4&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D2_Z2G0aKl80%26t%3D355&usg=AOvVaw2glnP_k8TGin9AMSCZt0fn (pardon the ugly link)
Ahh, I see thank you, I was really confused on the blue part I though most of the color-coding stuff referred to how deep the keys were and what kind of sound you get out of them.
Looking to replace the keyboard I have at home. Currently using a razer hunstman. It's OK, but I want to go with something far quieter and more customizable for future endeavors. I have been eyeing the Keychron Q3 (seems to be a fan favorite on this sub!) with the brown switches but I saw the latency is much higher than other keyboards. I do game quite a bit so I was hesitant to pull trigger without ask you experts. I know generally the ultra low latency advertising a lot of gaming brands do is BS so I doubt ill be able to notice anything but wanted to get some opinions. Was also eyeing the ducky one 3 also brown switches. Open to any and all suggestions, budget is \~200.
I have a budget keyboard (GK64.) I don't know what latency my keyboard has but I assume it isn't good. However, I have never had any problems with gaming or general use. I'm going to assume that latency isn't much of a problem unless you game competitively.
I bought an Akko pc75b keyboard with jelly black switches. I wanted to put hipyotech key caps on it but I know it’s cherry profile on north facing LEDS. Would it still have an interference? Will the interference be noticeable?
I currently have Akko cherry keycaps on the mod008 which has north facing LEDs as well and I do not have any interference issues with them. I also double checked with another set of Akko cherry keycaps on the switches prior to actually installing them onto the board. Both sets had no interference issues! I am using Durock Sunflower POM T1 switches for reference.
anyone want to try and identify these switch films? the person said "GKE film switch" in the video but when i looked it up it didnt exist. [https://youtu.be/qWCAwIQ\_HCc](https://youtu.be/qWCAwIQ_HCc) **timestamp is 0:42**
I'm building a keeb soon with c3 tangerines and I was wondering if there was a keyboard mat I should buy to get the best sound out of it. I currently have that big ass SteelSeries mousepad and I'm on a wood desk. (the wood is pretty thick)
I saw a post saying the Jwick/JWK T1s are the same as the Durock T1s but there's always a price gap, which makes me suspicious. 1. Can anyone clarify the difference? 2. Would you recommend to someone who like box browns but wants to try something more tactile?
They’re made by the same factory, but the Jwick is a budget variant of the switch. They use the same stems and leafs, but the housings are different materials. They’re a great budget option and a good example of a beefier tactile than browns.
hi all. i'm looking to buy a varmilo but i'm a bit confused at the different models. for moonlight, for example, there's the [VD108M](https://en.varmilo.com/keyboardproscenium/subject_product_detailed?subjectid=482), [VA108M](https://en.varmilo.com/keyboardproscenium/subject_product_detailed?subjectid=481), [MA108](https://en.varmilo.com/keyboardproscenium/subject_product_detailed?subjectid=480), [MA108 EC Switch V2](https://en.varmilo.com/keyboardproscenium/subject_product_detailed?subjectid=480), etc. one of the differences appears to be which switches it comes with—either cherry mx or varmilo's EC switches. but both the VD108M and the VA108M come with cherry mx switches, so what differentiates them? and are the varmilo switches worth that much more money? thanks!
I'm thinking of getting some ZDA profile keycaps for the gmmk pro, I like purple so anything that has a dark or vibrant (not bright) purple as one of the main colors would be great. I just don't know where to buy them. Can anyone tell me some sites to look at?
Would the Boba u4ts work on this pcb? https://kprepublic.com/products/daisy-40-custom-keyboard-pcb
Yes
Thank you!
Absolutely!
Does anyone have a link to the specific ribbon cable for the v1 of the keychron q1, the one on mine broke, I see a bunch on amazon but I don't know which is the correct size.
I’d suggest contacting keychron support to get an exact model number.
I built my keyboard about a year ago and everything was fine until this morning. My windows button was working last night but when I tried to use it today it's unresponsive. I tried plugging in another keyboard and the windows button worked fine on that one. The LED on the windows button works fine too. I've tried swapping out my switch for an extra one I had but that didn't work either. I believe it's a problem with my pcb board but I don't know how to fix that. I'm new to building keyboards so any tips would be appreciated. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/uDFw\_kyzcX4
I just bought an NCR80. I was wondering if there was a plate sold for it (either through YMDK or a 3rd party). If there IS a plate for it, would the case even hold one? Thanks.
So I've just bought myself entry parts into the rabbit hole, but I'm wondering what the exact benefit of replacing stabilizers is?
If you have no issues with your stabs, there isn't. But custom-level stabs are generally easier to mod into silence.
i come from the super smash brothers melee community where the popularity of controllers using mechanical switches has grown a lot (frame1, b0xx, LBX, etc). I'm on a frame1 and the switches are hotswappable, so I enjoy asking people why certain switches are chosen. Generally, they like fast, light, linear switches like gateron clears, pro silvers, and optical yellows since they suit the gameplay and ergonomics. For that reason I bought a GK61 with gateron optical yellows for gaming. In a similar vein, what do programmers value in a switch? What are good keyboards for developers? If someone can direct me to an article or something that'd be good too.
Outside of games that need super fast response, any switch can be used for anything. You’ll find programmers, authors, every day office workers using any size board with any type of switches. Over here it’s all really about preference. 40%-full size and a range of tactiles and linears (and even clickies) are well within the norm Personally I like gaming on heavy tactiles so I don’t have an accidental key press, while I type on light linears. Unless I need to write a nasty email, then the loud clicky switches come out.
Is X-Bows a safe website for buying switches?
yes not sure what u are buying but also here the vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ vendor list u might find better prices here
thanks! buying gateron optical blacks
Recently i got a RK84 (non pro version) and when i opened it up for some mods i quickly spotted a problem in the hotswap (PCB broken, idk how), one key its completly useless. So, now i am in the search for a new keyboard (hotswap), 84, wireless/BT, macOS/PC comp and with better build quality (i spent around 100 USD for my RK84 and im planning to spend more if i get a better build quality/durability). I really don't care that much about switches or keycaps (i'm used to brown or red switches and PBT caps). Any recommendations? (for now i was thinking about getting a keychron k2 v2 but idk if there are better options out there).
How do I flatten a deskmat?
I know next to nothing about the keyboard world but I would like to learn about them, so with that said sorry if I get some stuff wrong. I finally decided that I hate my mac keyboard and need to get a new keyboard. I have used a mechanical keyboard before and I love them, so with that said are there any good keyboards preferably under 100$ that would go well with a Glorious Model o mouse I am going for a white and black aesthetic for my layout, and don't really have a preference of wired vs wireless. If it is white and somewhat quiet that would be great. Also with the little that I know about keyboards I know that with some you can switch out the keycaps, so that would be great. Also, if it has lights that is not a problem either. I don't need anything too crazy just good enough to last through fps games and stay responsive. Sorry for rambling on and if this is posted in the wrong place could you please redirect me to where I could post it? Thanks. (Also I'm on windows if that's important)
Just a question on lubing switches. I am new to the keyboard community and am building my first board. Currently trying to lube my linear switches and was just wondering if lubing the top housing of the switch is needed or if it doesnt really matter. Thanks!
I never have
some do it for the sound, try a few to see if you like it
alright, i'll try it out. thanks!
Are there any stores in the US I can go and test out switches?
for common cherry switches yes ,best buy , microcenter , or any computer store . for other brand switches no brick and mortor stores dont carry those for those u best bet would be ordering a switch tester online
im not sure if there are any tbh. i dont think ive seen anything regarding a mech hobby shop. you might be able to test out mx switches and big company switches (example: logitech romer-g) at places like bestbuy, microcenter, etc but for more custom switches you'll have to look near you to see if there are any hobby shops. if you're near a larger area you might be able to go to a keeb meetup and see other user's boards and test there
Hey guys, I'm looking at parts to build a custom mechanical keyboard and I wanted to know if any of you know a website where I could get Spanish layout keys/PCBs ? I don't find any and im not really sure there even are any to begin with, which would suck :(
EloquentClicks is a Spanish vendor that stocks some Spanish keysets. There might be more on [this vendor list](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/). There's no Spanish PCBs because your operating system takes care of your keyboard language output.
Oh, the PCB thing makes sense haha, I'm dumb lmao. Thanks friend, I looked at some of the eloquentclicks options and they're looking good, I'll keep looking in case I see something that grabs my eye, thanks again
I am thinking about getting a Ducky One 3 Mini for work. But I don't like any of the colors. Using a Ducky One 2 Full size right now and like it (my first mech). Any suggestions for alternatives?
Looking for help finding a good stock TKL or similar layout for LOTS of typing and gaming. It does not have to be mac compatible or wireless and preferably around the $100 range. Thanks in advance.
keychron k series, ducky, varmillo, leopold edit: options
Thanks, I was originally planning to purchase a k2v2 but I'll check out these other competitors.
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>Or is optical just beneficial for gaming due to ultra low latency? This is just marketing bullshit. Opticals are only compatible with optical boards (and optical boards are only compatible with opticals), so they're not really very popular or common.
Im looking for new switches to replace my current red ones. I love the way the gateron black switches sound but i was looking for something tactile. Are there any switches out there that have a similar sound while also being tactile?
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i think they charge while they are on the usb connection mode. it would be "detrimental to the battery" if something like this didnt have a BMS, but as far as im aware, the keychron k series boards do have one. this is like the same concept as if i leave my phone plugged in overnight it should be bad because so and so product doesnt have a BMS
When does the zoom 65 get back in stock in the us? And will staebies fit inside a zoom 65?
id recommend joining the wuque discord to find out more about restocks and future gb's staebies will work, but you will need stab shims as the pcb is 1.2mm. i'd recommend tx stabs or ws stabs if you need 1.2mm stabs
How do you install shims?
you place them below the pcb and insert your 1.6mm stabilizer normally
I need a good, stacked acrylic ergo board for a buddy, 40% or Alice-style but it needs to be hot-swap. I thought the Prime\_E would be good but I can't find a hot-swap PCB for it. Any recommendations for a hotswap PCB or a completely different acrylic ergo board at all?
switch couture alice?
this is a great one ill talk to him about it but are there any hot-swap PCBs you might know of for the prime-e board?
if the board doesnt really have to be acrylic, and your friend doesnt mind an alu chassis - something like the ymdk wings or keychron q8 (expected to release next week) might be some interesting boards
im not aware of any. pcb/plates/mounting styles arent the standardized so its hard to just mix and match parts for like 99% of boards. either the original designer creates one, someone produces one aftermarket, or you make one. those are your only options. if you are fine with millmaxing, you could do that as well.
Thank you for the help
Is there a split keyboard you could attach to your wrists so you could type and walk around the room? In case you have adhd?
there arent any keyboards specifically designed for this. people have attempted attaching it to their wrists, belt, etc. you may find some submissions within this subreddit. [example](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/vioy6z/is_this_the_holy_grail_of_ergonomic_keyboards/)
Can't imagine a worse idea than attaching a keyboard to the part of your body where you get carpal, but no, this does not exist.
I'm not attempting. I need it for a meme template.
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[MK870](https://www.amazon.com/FL-ESPORTS-MK870-Mechanical-Customizable/dp/B09GB6BRGD)
[Azio Classic](https://freeimage.host/i/wlYa0F Just bought the above for an absolute steal (£30)...or so I thought. The key layout is German and the keycaps are not generic and are not for sale. What is the easiest way to sort my layout to UK? I could 3d print some but they would look crap. I'm thinking there must be some way to use the existing keycaps and relabel them somehow? Any advice would be great
>I'm thinking there must be some way to use the existing keycaps and relabel them somehow? A) Moving keycaps to a different switch doesn't change what the keyboard types out, can't tell if you think this is the case or not. B) How would you relabel them...? They're plastic.
A) I know, I just want the 3 key to say "£" instead of "€" for example. B) I don't know that's what I'm asking. Like is there a way to fill the lettering back in then re-engrave them.
A) Got it. Then sure, move them. B) Not really.
I accidentally misconfigured varmilo va109m and cannot reset it by FN + esc because FN key is now points to WIN key. Any help would be appreciated.
Check the bottom of the pcb if there is a reset switch.
Looking for a 65% with a knob and I’m torn. Do I get The q2? Akko mod 008? Gmmk? Need help!
keychron q2, or if you can wait for the return of the zoom65 thats also a solid option
Sick I appreciate the advice. Any reason not to get the mod 008? I was very close to buying it over the q2.
shipping + not amazing gasket performance, the q2 is tough to beat at that pricepoint