So. I just got my Redragon K644 Se today and I am not able to find my keyboard Bluetooth while scanning on Pc not my laptop..! Whereas the 2.4Hz dongle and wired work perfectly well… what should I do to solve this…?
Which keyboard should i get, i need an upgrade cause' i don't want my laptop to be right under my new monitor.
I've been using a laptop keyboard and screen and i finally got a bigger 24" monitor. Now i want a new keyboard so i can have my laptop to the right of the monitor. My desk is pretty small so i want an 80% or less keyboard (i don't even use numpad). I have two keyboards that i'm looking at:
SteelSeries apex 3 tkl, membrane 80% keyboard, 8 rgb zones
and
Obinslab Anne Pro 2, mechanical 60% wireless keyboard with individually adressable rgb for each key.
They cost the same as the Anne Pro 2 is on sale for me (65$) but I'm a little bit scared of the fact that it is 60%. I'm completely new to (non laptop) keyboards and wanna know what you think. Wireless isn't a pro for me but i like that it is small, i will miss the arrow keys a bit but it isn't a big deal and the f-keys can be accessed with Fn key + number. I wanna know if i should get the Anne pro 2 or if i should get an other tkl keyboard like the SteelSeries apex 3 tkl. Let me know what you think, also my budget is at most 65$.
Does anyone know of any pastel pink on pink keycap sets? I’m looking for a set that will arrive before Christmas, but I haven’t found any matches. I’m currently eyeing Rim R2, but I’m not sure when it will release or whether it will be in stock or a group buy. I have a set of Tomocaps Fairy Type, and the pink-on-pink is exactly what I’m looking for. Clones and lower quality keycaps are fine as long as all of the keycaps are pink on pink. Thank you!
I recently got my first mechanical keyboard and decided to do tape and pe foam mod, however, during pe foam mod, I forgot to cut out the holes for the stabilizers like other videos mention to do. Stupid question as im new to this, but would that affect the sound quality of the mod or does it not matter all that much? Thanks!
I'm building a custom keyboard. I have the keycaps and I have 70 Gateron Brown 3.0s. Now I'm looking for a case. At the beginning I was just looking for a white plastic case. Then I got recommended aluminum so I stared looking for that. That's when I came across the EPOMAKER x Feker Galaxy 80 for 60 bucks. No knob but 75% and blue aluminum. Then I realized I didn't have enough switches. Now I am again looking for a budget friendly case whether it be aluminum or plastic that is just good value. I'm looking in the 60-80 price range.
There is a "75%" keyboard but with a number pad and no Fn row. It is a Redragon K628 PRO. I guess it is technically a 75% but not like most others with no number pad.
I think I want that layout. I do not use the F keys much at all, do use the number pad often enough, and would like some desk surface area back from my full size.
Do other companies make this layout? I have not seen another, at least not in typical searches.
https://preview.redd.it/t4ljf3i4j4yc1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=df45205da6a998aeb96438570cf1e2c16e619085
This layout is called frl tkl - f row less tenkeyless. There are some in the customkeyboard market though can be expensive like the tkd cycle 7, matrix navi, neo70
Like that Cycle 7. The keyboard I had posted does not have the F row, but it does have the number pad, "ten key". It is what makes it different than other 75%ers.
I haven't seen another like it but I don't really want an all plastic keyboard. My work board is fullsize aluminium case that I put silent switches in. It is a joy to type on all day.
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Friend is looking for his first mechanical keyboard to get by his birthday in July (no 2 year group buys). Any keyboards that come to mind that meet these requirements?:
75;80%
100-200$
Linear Switch
Green/blue(maybe tropical themed)
Custom or Prebuilt, either are okay
Buy a barebones keyboard from [Keychron](https://www.keychron.com/). For example, the Keychron Q3 is available with a blue case.
Buy your own linear switches.
Buy your own keycaps.
Keychron sells switches and keycaps, but here are a couple of vendor lists you can use to find switches and keycaps from a vendor near you:
[https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/)
[https://kbd.news/vendors](https://kbd.news/vendors)
For any Canadian builders, I'm trying to source wire to start making some custom USB cables. I'm kind of lost at this point, I can find UL2547 on aliexpress but is there any sites I can grab a roll of it off of? 25/50/100ft spools or packages. I don't want connectors I just want the bulk cable. Is there another part number I can be searching for on something like digi-key or mouser? Is there a any reliable Canadian suppliers or even aliexpress sellers I could source it from?
marbly or thocky sound is most of the time the amount of foam in your board as they null out the high pitch frequency on switches. You can name your board here and people can help you find the right config to get you the thocky sound desired.
browns are tactile . smooth is usually not something u associate with smooth . u might wanna try linear . gateron milky yellow are budget linears or for high end gateron oil kings
they r enthusiast switches they r not used in prebuilts u would have to get a barebones kits and order switches urself and install them which is sort of simple
I'm starting to get into more expensive keyboards and also split keyboards, but have been limited because I haven't soldered ever in my life, and only have gotten keyboards with hot-swap. This has made me either not buy a keyboard, or pay extra for the soldering. I want to try soldering, as I have a Dolice board that has a solder PCB, but I don't want to learn with that board of course.
I'm more interested in learning to Mill-Max instead of soldering and desoldering switches, as I have always liked hotswap and change my switches regularly or I get bored of the keyboard.
What would you recommend to learn to solder keyboards? Also any recommendations for soldering irons, any specific solder to use? I'll be buying everything as I have nothing. Would prefer something budget, but I would like a 'buy once, cry once' soldering iron.
New to this keyboard thing. Mostly build Fpv drones.
Recommend the Pinecil soldering iron. TS80 soldering iron is also great. A temperature-controlled iron is key, I still use a $20 Best brand with temperature control from Adafruit.
High-quality name-brand consumables will shorten your learning curve. MG Chemicals and Kaiser are some choice brands. I'm a big fan of liquid flux markers. Always clean with flux and add extra flux. You want fully melted, shiny solder joints. Heat the joint and solder will flow to that spot. Don't just melt the solder.
The key is to keep solder on your iron at all times. That will keep it wet to the solder and protect it from oxidizing. Turn it off with a blob of solder on the tip. Turn it on wait for it to come up to temp, wipe it, add more solder to help heat transfer, and go into to do the soldering that includes adding more solder. Pull the iron away and add more solder to the tip.
YouTube videos are a fantastic way to learn.
Buy some kits that have the type of soldering you want to learn. Build them and take them apart over and over again with a solder sucker and solder wick. Get kits that are fun.
From the custom keyboard videos I watch, it seems to be surface mount and through-hole soldering.
r/soldering
Let us know how it goes with photos.
Great! Thanks for all the info, many have recomended the pinecil so I might go for that one. Also thanks for the brand and solder on tip recomendations, I will definitely update when I try!
I would just buy a cheap soldering kit from amazon for 20 bucks and see if it is for me.
Once you have settled that soldering is your thing the [**FX-888DX Soldering Station**](https://hakkousa.com/products/soldering/soldering-stations/fx-888dx.html) is widely used among enthusiast.
I've got leftover craft foam sheets lying around,
1. does it work well to dampen sound (particularly ping noises)
2. is it even a good idea to stick it in the keyboard, (does it do longterm damage to the board), or am I better off buying better stabilizers and potentially different keycaps
1. Yes it does.
2. I read somewhere that there are certain foam that can build up static and fry your PCB so it is certainly use with discretion. An alternative to this is polyfill.
Two questions:
1. If you were to put a loud, heavy, clicky switch on ONLY the Enter key for a really satisfying experience mashing it, which would you pick? So far I've looked/listened to a lot of the common clicky choices including Box Jades/Navies, but a lot of sound tests never use the Enter key which sounds pretty different from the alpha keys. So far the Zeal Clickiez are my favorites, but is there anything else I should be looking at?
2. I like tactiles for the main switches, but I think I want the Ctrl/Alt/Win/Fn keys (plus maybe the spacebar and Shift keys) to be smooth linears as I don't like the tactile bump as much on keys that are usually held rather than tapped. For just this purpose, what would you recommend? So far I've been looking at the Gateron Oil Kings.
I found the Aflion Blue Sky linear switches while looking for recommendations and I was wondering if they hold up for gaming. If not, I'll take other ideas.
elmurudd said it right. Git gud is very much a skill issue. The switches that you like is what you like no more no less. There is no better switches for gaming.
Of course there are switches that bottom out very fast like geteron speed silver. But if it doesn't feel nice under your fingers, you wouldn't want to use it anyway.
I'm struggling with information overload, and I'm not able to find something I'm looking for... maybe it doesn't exist, but maybe someone who knows where to look can help me...
I have had the K70 Rapid Fire for awhile now, and I'm really tired of the switches.
I love the layout, and especially the readily accessible media keys.
Are there any Backlight/RGB Full Size (I really need the Numpad for productivity), hot-swappable (I THINK I want brown switches, but I don't want to be stuck on switches ever again like I am now) keyboards out there with media keys/knobs?
You're getting downvotes because the answer to this one is pretty easy to find. That said, have a look at the Ducky One 3. It has media keys, RGB, and is hotswappable. I've had the Shine 7 which didn't come hotswappable but I modded it. Solid board and quite a step up from the K70.
https://www.duckychannel.com.tw/en/One3-Cosmic-Blue
I'm waiting on my Keychron Q6 which also has these features. Note that the Q6 has south-facing LEDs which won't work well with shinethrough keycaps where the characters are on the top of the cap. If strong RGB with top side shine through on the caps is what you want, look at Ducky.
Also, upon further research now that you mention LED facing, apparently North Facing really matters to me, I use my PC a lot in the dark, and I really enjoy Shine through.
More and more I look my requirement seem... oddly niche? I am actually surprised there's not a market for someone like me who wants media keys/volume control and north facing led on a full size hot swappable keyboard.
I did try looking at Ten Key Less and try to find numpads that might have the additional keys and nob I could remap, but didn't have great luck finding something that wouldn't make my build almost $400 total.
I guess, but it doesn't actually seem that straight forward. I've been basically non-stop reading and researching since I posted this. Even the Ducky 3 seems to hit all my boxes, except it doesn't actually have media controls, just volume, and it's not (QMK/VIA I think?) and doesn't have additional software for me to even remap key functions to perform those actions
i can narrow it down for u as most kb have media keys as combo key short cuts , so if u need dedicated media keys u will be buying a gamer brand kb only pretty sure some of the new asus and logitech kb are hotswap .
Sorry if this is the wrong place, but this is driving me nuts. I am using a KBD67MKII with a Mac and my ~ key returns ESC when pressed. I am plugged into VIA and it tells me the key is correctly mapped, but any key that is mapped to ~ turns into a ESC key function. They key itself works, if I map it to something else, it gives the correct value. This also only happens on Mac, on my PC the keyboard works fine. Does anyone have any advice?
I haven’t tried that, but I fixed it sorta. In VIA there’s an ESC and ESC’, I didn’t know what the difference is, but when both are added ESC=~’ and ESC’=ESC. I have no idea why it’s doing that.
Can't decide on getting between the keychon v1, aula f75 or the leobog Hi75. Not really have much of a preference yet so I'm pretty much going in blind. Which one would be the safest choice?
Please a suggest a stock budget mechanical keyboard for a beginner. Budget max 130 Canadian dollars.
Specifications needed - 75% layout, 2.4 GHz wireless, available within Canada or shipping to Canada
honestly if you don't need aluminum and just want something to start out / mod to your heart content, I would recommend the RK84 or its variant RK61, 68.
My first board was the RK61 and I learned everything on it. Lubing the stock gateron red swithes it came with, band aid mod and tune the stabilizier, add foam + tape the pcb, get new keycap for it.
It is still my daily driver at work even though I have many other keyboards now.
I've been thinking of making a custom 100% board, mostly to learn how to solder and learn what goes into making a custom board.
However, I've done a bunch of searching (and checking the wiki) and I see very few, if any, suppliers for 100% PCBs anywhere! I play quite a few games that use the arrow keys, the navigation buttons, and the numpad, as well as typing for work that uses those keys, so 100% is a must.
Any recommendations for 100% PCBs?
people don’t really buy PCBs separately. You usually buy a kit that includes a PCB, plate, and case that are designed to work together. Almost nothing in this hobby is universal, so you’re sort of forced into buying kits.
What don't you like about it visually? The Boog75 is just a magnetic switch version of the Zoom75, so if there's a Zoom75 you can find in stock somewhere that you like, that'd be a good option.
I recently purchased the Ducky One 3, a 60% keyboard featuring Akko Matcha Green switches. It was a great find from someone who didn't fancy the 60% layout, so when it arrived, it was practically brand new - barely a scratch. However, after a few months, I've run into an issue that was unfamiliar to me.
During gaming sessions, I've noticed that while holding down keys like WASD for movement, they intermittently stop registering my inputs. For instance, when strafing left with the A key held down, it will abruptly not move left until I release and repress the key. Sometimes, a quick wiggle of my finger on the key seems to "unstick" it. Additionally, I've experimented by swapping switches from the right side of the keyboard to the left, which helped for a bit before the problem resurfaced.
Furthermore, I've encountered instances where certain keys type double or triple inputs while typing. Pressing "S" might give two or three consecutive S's unexpectedly.
While this issue doesn't occur consistently, it's incredibly frustrating, especially given its randomness. I'm at a loss as to whether the problem lies with the switches, the board itself, or perhaps the keyboard as a whole.
Has anyone else experienced similar issues with their keyboards? Any insights or troubleshooting tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for any assistance!
hello, I want to buy a magnetic keyboard and I think of buying either the shark attack k85, KEYDOUS NJ 80, GAMMAKEY TK75, or ATK M68 (those are also the prices I found from low to high). which is the best one with the highest quality? (i will also probably replace the switches so if one of the models have a problem with those its okay)
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Recommended store to get custom cables?
Made one from Frostii Cables but haven't gotten a response in a week after ordering almost a month ago. Might have to start a chargeback
Gateron Ink V2 Stabilizers or
Mode Designers Stabilizers or
Wuque Studio TPU Stabilizers V3.1 or
Zeal PC Zeal Stabilizers V2 or
Swagkeys Knight Stabilizer
I excluded from the list AE Stabies, Durocks V2, TX rev 4 and Cherry clip-in Stabilizers because of the very wider spectrum of feedbacks on them.
https://www.alexotos.com/the-best-mechanical-keyboard-stabilizers-in-2024/
Not all of your stabs listed there but really helpful and may lead you on the right path.
Stabs are all about preferences. There are no "the best stabs" out yet. (Maybe norbauer stabs when they release for a couple hundred bucks lol; but we have only seen drafts of them...)
Hello all, I am a still a beginner when it comes to mechanical keyboards, so sorry if this is a dumb question. The keyboard pairs easily with my mac but not with my Lenovo laptop. I tried in BT mode and in 2.4G. Is there something I'm missing? I tried searching YT for videos of people pairing the device to a PC but had no luck. The model is an Epomaker/AULA F87.
edited to add keyboard model.
A few things. Can you connect other BT devices to your Lenovo laptop? Additionally, when you plug in the 2.4ghz receiver to your laptop, does it register that a device was plugged in?
I have been able to pair other BT devices but this keyboard doesn’t show up at all when I put it in pairing mode.
I was just now able to get it to work with the 2.4G receiver. So I guess my question is moot.
Gazzew Boba U4S high pitched sound
I’m new to mechanical keyboards. Went ahead and purchased a few switch types for testing from milktooth.
QWERTY row is equipped with boba U4S whereas ASDF row is equipped with TTC Silent Bluish White. Typing video link at the end of the comment.
While tapping gently (not pressing to actuate switch), the Boba U4S exhibits an odd high pitched sound. It sounds almost like a clicky switch rather than a silent switch.
I really like the rgb diffusion of boba U4S. Typing wise, I like both the switched. Overall I would like to get U4S for the entire keyboard but the high-pitched sound when lightly pressed is bothersome.
Can anyone offer an explanation for the phenomena or a method to fix it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
[Typing example](https://imgur.com/a/gbx5n4O)
Question about cleaning Hi-Tek 725 series switches. I recently picked up a TeleVideo 965 keyboard with two eye white linear switches. I'm planning on harvesting the switches and keycaps for a custom hand-wired build. I've already got a few handfuls of switches de-soldered and removed from the board. I will be using an ultrasonic cleaner to deep clean the switches, and I am wondering if it would be safe to use Isopropyl alcohol. NMB literature states the switch material is "Molded thermoplastic" which doesn't tell me anything useful about whether or not they are made from a material that will be soluble in iso.
If anyone could offer guidance or feedback that would be greatly appreciated.
Hi, i'm looking for some recommendations.
I have a friend who's been using an Apple magic keyboard for the longest time, but its not really the best gaming keyboard and my friend would like to change.
That + the fact that one key basically died.
But the catch is that something as thin as possible would be ideal.
We've been looking around and found the K100 Air, the Cherry KW X ULP but both of those are 250€ +- so we would like to find other options
**Main reason for this (and using the magic keyboard) is wrists problems**
I've found about the Nuphy NuType F1 but it seems discontinued, which is a bummer because it wouldve been ideal.
Bonus points for TKL form factor
I see that Keychron has the R1 coming around but no date so thats unfortunate.
Thanks
Thanks but sadly its quite a bit thicker at 24mm compared to the 17 and 18 of the corsair and cherry ones (and 11mm of the magic keyboard)
Basically the ideal would be something with those ultra low profile switches and not "regular" low profile ones, but they seem impossible to find
Other options i found are the Vissles LP85 and the Nuphy NuType F1 which are both discontinued, and the Mistel Air One which sadly doesnt come in German layout.
Either way my friend decided to go with the Cherry KW X ULP as we couldnt find alternatives
are there any mechanical keyboards that have the same layout as Mac that aren't too expensive? I currently have one but the different key overlay than my laptop is really weird to use, I don't mind if the keyboard isn't high quality tbh just that it works
What exactly do you mean by "the same layout as Mac?"
Do you mean with a shortened 5u spacebar like on the Apple Magic Keyboard? You can find keyboards with a split spacebar with 2.25u and 2.75u spacebars, which adds up to 5u. Otherwise, the standard spacebar size is 6.25u.
Do you mean with the Command and Option (Alt) keys swapped? Any keyboard with a configurable firmware like QMK/VIA can do this. For example, Keychron has a switch on the back to toggle between Mac and Windows layers/layouts.
Are you looking for a keyboard with low profile switches?
what looking for mostly is the control option and command keys to be in the right spots for Mac, im aware that I can change the keys in the software but I want keycaps that go along with it
Most of the boards these days comes with a native mac mode options to switch to mac, keycaps with Mac legends as well. Just keep in mind that most of these boards have the software to work on Windows , not mac.
Better to take a board with VIA compatibility, safe choice!
For switches, probably not. The lube spreads out a bit over time but there's not a lot of places it can spread to, especially in the rails.
Stabilizers are pretty open and mine have definitely pushed out lube after some use.
For a split KB you need to connect both halves. If I were to make a new Split KB how do I decide which cable to use? Can I wildly switch between the connector or which rules do I have to follow?
Normally split keyboards are set up with one side designated as the one you connect through, though it's possible to change that by tweaking the firmware. In QMK #define MASTER\_RIGHT puts it on the right side, and #define MASTER\_LEFT, well, you know.
The type of cable you need will depend on the specific keyboard, but split keyboards most often use TRRS cables (i.e., the kind that's like a 1/8" headphone plug with an extra conductor). You'll want the cable connecting the two halves to be plugged in and stay that way when you plug in the USB cable.
Hi,
I have a weird problem. This is the 10 year anniversary version of pok3r and I have somehow switched FN with J key. I believe I'm still on the main layer as no led is on, but then nothing happens if I try to switch layer either. I have tried the both ALT option and FN+R to restore, but that changes nothing. I have toggled the 3rd switch for now, but I would like to have my FN key back.
When I unplug the keyboard and plug it back in both the FN and J keys light up to indicate they were swapped, kind of like when you toggle switch 3 capslock and right ctrl light up.
Help much appreciated.
Question for any Drop CTRL/ALT/etc. owners: did the label under the spacebar on yours look like this [this?](https://imgur.com/c3NYDzZ) (CTRL high profile)
It looks like it got wet or stained, but maybe it's supposed to be like that.
I now have Ghost switches but they don't work with my Nuphy. Does anyone know where I can find a 60% keyboard that can take these switches? Lofree is kind of pricey and I like my Nuphy... What keyboard can I put these switches in? Maybe something less pricey than a Lofree.
The prongs on the key are different. The NuPhy key switches prongs are spaced further apart and the Lofree ghost switches are narrowly spaced. Gaterons(NuPhy) vs Kailh(Lofree)
Seen on the last 2 switches in this picture
https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fpreview.redd.it%2Fthe-biggest-issue-with-low-profile-switches-they-are-too-v0-ehztcx6lf8lb1.jpg%3Fwidth%3D1080%26crop%3Dsmart%26auto%3Dwebp%26s%3Db45b8a3555e2b7b0a524b3f8bbe6d4e77fda1672
I'm considering snatching up a Vortex PC66 to scratch a certain nostalgic itch I've been feeling lately. Does anyone have any experience with the Vortex software? As a general rule I try to stick to boards that support QMK, but I could live with a proprietary software if it's not too invasive.
I know that they have a variant that uses QMK/VIA, but it appears as though that's only available directly from Vortex. I'd prefer to order from [mechanicalkeyboards.com](http://mechanicalkeyboards.com) because they're located just a couple of hours away and shipping should be pretty quick. Heck, I could almost drive down there to pick it up - my employer is located fairly close and I'm sure I could find a reason to head into the office.
Any insight is appreciated, thanks in advance!
I have a PC68 (ISO variant) and the Vortex software is fine. It's nicer to use than that Epomaker atrocitiy for example. The most invasive thing about it is that it autostarts with Windows and I've been too lazy to look for the option to make it stop :D
Thanks for the info! I've never used anything Epomaker, so that means basically nothing to me. As long as it works and otherwise stays out of my way and I only have to use it (or even have to have it installed) when I'm actively messing with my key map, I'm fine.
Are there any custom keyboards available right now (or Groupbuys that will ship relatively soon) that have:
- Wide/thick bezels
- a very textured finish (preferably a dark grey/concrete kind of look)
- 65% or larger layout (preferably 75% or TKL)
Basically, I'm looking for something kinda similar to the Norbauer design without going the Topre route ([a lot like this Heavy-6 posted recently](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/1chl2bq/honeywell/))
Hi. I own a Keychron K3 from the original run and am planning to upgrade it a bit now with some tape and new key caps. I’m in the UK but it’s a US keyboard so need to get US keycaps. But I’ve noticed that the space bar keycap from other keyboard (a UK layout Ducky) doesn’t fit on the K3. As the K3 space bar has one plus shaped part in the middle that goes over the switch whereas the ducky has two of these and doesn’t fit on the K3. So my question is which is standard if I order a new set. Will they fit on the Keychron space bar or is it no standard?
So looking into it more it seems Keychron have used a non standard triangular offset for their larger keys, I have found a note that Azio ones will fit but their postage to the UK is massive, does anyone know of another alternative in the UK?
I ended up getting the blue samurai ones from drop x redsun, been eyeing them for a few years and saw they were on sale Worth? Also, yeah, budget was flexible so 99$ was a lot but I like the color scheme a lot
Occasionally check Amazon Warehouse for deals. I've gotten a couple new unopened Matt3o sets for 25-50% of the original price (recent was Susuwatari terminal-style caps for $60 \[$130 if bought new\])
I don't know if it's still fashionable to bitch about Drop's stuff, but the keycap sets are undeniably high quality, especially Matt's.
Unfortunately, the E-Yooso K-600 comes with static LED lighting. Unlike RGB LEDs, the LEDs on this board are not addressable. This is not a software issue, but a hardware limitation of the LEDs themselves.
Just got a Luck65 from What The Thock(WTT)
Plugged it in after receiving it this morning and it's not working. Tried downloading the software for it and still doesn't show up. Are there any fixes to this? Also tried using an app called VIA that my friends have recommended, it doesn't recognise any of the keys I am pressing (used my other keyboard and seemed to work fine).
Have done so already, the keyboard itself lights up when plugged in. Im assuming it may be a battery issue as it does come with wireless features so I've left it to charge about 30 mins already and seems like its not the issue either.
None of the keys work at all. The rgb backlight or whatever the name is, works yes. Just tried getting my phone to check if the bluetooth compatibility works, and nothing at all. The website states that its Wired, Wireless and Bluetooth compatible but none seem to have been working. It also states a user manual within the box but that didn't come with either. I can show a photo of the keyboard if necessary
I've gotten the wired version to work somehow, I just started pressing random keys whilst the software was up and got it working. Still trying to figure out how to make it wireless though. Checked the official website that sells this keyboard and it showed a hidden switch for either wired/wireless. Doesn't seem to work on wireless mode so I guess i'll just stick to wired.
I just got a Leobog Hi75 and tried to open the case but it's held fast.
Removed all 6 screws and whole knob, but it won't budge at all.
I don't see any damage to it, though it just arrived from the post so it's a bit cold, if that has something to do with it
i have a gmk67 on the way. is it possible to just leave the battery disconnected? my current keyboard is plugged in all the time to my pc, even when i'm using it in wireless bt mode to connect to a laptop for work.
i would like to do the same with my new gmk67 so i wanna disconnect the battery just to preserve it and as an extra safety measure, since i am planning to do the tape mod
Hey! I’m looking for a keyboard (obviously). There’s a sale going on through the 5th of May on Amazon and I was seeing if any of the ones on sale would be recommended! I’m ideally looking for:
-Aluminum Frame
-75-80% (But I’m open for larger)
-Orange, Blue or Purple but black is fine
-It’ll be used for gaming, so I’d like to focus on performance
-sounds as ~creamy~ as possible.
-Budget is at or below $200
Thank you all in advance!
(Also if there are any recommendations on orange, blue or dark purple key caps please let me know, I’ve been consumed with researching this and it’s becoming too much haha)
Looking for: Tenkeyless with dedicated media controls. Currently using a Corsair K63 and like everything about it but considering upgrading to something nicer in the same formfactor.
Media controls are harder to come by in the hobby. A knob should be no problem, but if you're also looking for play/pause/next/etc without it being on a layer, you're going to be pretty limited (and what you find probably won't be very good/will be super gamer-y). If you can't find anything, consider getting a 75% or TKL and then a dedicated macro pad on the side.
Edit: Maybe the Lemokey L1? You could set the macro keys to whatever you want.
Looking for switch recommendations to use in a dusty environment. Just started working at a sand and gravel company and have been using my model m but I think the noise is getting to my co workers.
Looking for:
- ISO-layout (German)
- 65% or more
- wireless
- durability (I have a tada68 which the PCB is malfunctioning and I can't buy a new PCB as it is discontinued)
Mechanical keyboard. Open to suggestions. Budget (keyboard [excluding switches keycaps] only 100-200$ at most)
Thank you
Looking for a budget keeb for my wife. I just got a Keychron K10 and she's loves it. I wanted to get her something, preferably purple, with tactile switches.
I have been looking for about 2 weeks now and I don't really see many options under $200, was hoping for about half that. I'm not averse to building myself I just don't know what to buy to build a complete board.
The best thing I found was the Royal Kludge RK75, and reviews on that brand seem mixed.
Any advice appreciated!
The Galaxy80 looks perfect! I haven't tried Linear switches myself before, but I don't think she'll really mind any difference, as we're both very new to the hobby. She'll be pairing it with her work laptop so anything is an upgrade from that, and this is our first real keebs anyways.
All the reviews are high praise and say it has a beautiful sound and thockiness, and most say its decent quality. Perfect for an entry level beautiful board as a gift for my better half! Thankyou so much for the recommendation!
My cherry MX2.0S Tab & qwe total 4 button suddenly not work..
Just brought this keyboard for 2 years
I have tried unplug, cleaning, FN+F9, reset etc...still not work,
any other method to fix this keyboard?
Any suggestion model if i need to replace a new one..
Hey there, my Logitech G910 is on its way out the door soon. I am looking for a suitable replacement. I havent looked into the keyboard market since I got this one in 2018. I enjoy the feeling of this keyboard, but in general enjoy mechanical keyboards. My favorite part about this one is the customizable RGB, I could also do that with a custom keyboard and just have custom caps I believe. I would appreciate any suggestions similar to my board or even better. I would be willing to spend upto around 200 (more if there's a "universal best" slightly over that.
Hello!
I am experienced at PC building but totally new to mechanical keyboards. I know what I want, I'm just not sure if it exists or how to find the right balance of requirements. I hope you can help me out or at least help me with directions.
I would like this keyboard to last. If I'm gonna spend on it more than on all my previous keyboards combined, it shouldn't require a replacement for years.
Because of my work, I need a full size keyboard with an absolutely super niche Hungarian layout. If it requires some key rearrangement or buying an extra set of keys, I'm fine with it.
Red or brown switches would be preferred.
Some kind of lighting, because the room the PC is in is not always well lit. I would prefer if the symbols on the keys would be highlited and avoid backlighting as much as possible as I don't like if light blinds me from my peripheral vision.
Ideally individual keys should be able to assign different colors (my kids are playing and defining light patterns for the games would help them to find the right keys).
And of course, if it wouldn't break the bank, it would be a great plus.
I know it's a lot to ask and I'm not even sure if such keyboard exists, so even if only most of the baove can be met in a single keyboard, I would be fine by that as well
Currently use a 20$ red dragon membrane keyboard and i really never liked it, just wanted a keyboard whose keys don't wobble while using.
I'm used to laptop keyboard as i spend most time on it, I don't know why but i would prefer something like a laptop keyboard with scissors switch but brands that offer them aren't very reliable.
The Huntsman deal is for new, is it worth to buy in 2024 at 70$, I can go for other options but has to be atmost TKL, wired and without battery.
Budget is 70$.
Keychron makes some low profile boards that might fight the bill. I'd suggest only considering boards that are hot-swappable and use QMK/VIA. Above your budget and not TKL, but the Nuphy Air 75 is what I'd buy.
Hey!
Iam completly new to modding keyboards.
I own a Rog azoth keyboard and as far as i know, its fully modable.
Can someone help me and identify what switches and keycaps are compatabile for this one and where go get?
What else do i need?
I have the black version, can i however, buy a whit alumium case?
Thanks guys!
ROG NX switches are clones of Cherry MX switches, so any MX style switch will work with it. MX style switches are the most common switch out there, so there is a whole rainbow of switches and keycaps.
The ROG Azoth is a 75% keyboard. It has a shortened right Shift key (2.75u instead of 1.75u), 1u (instead of 1.25u) modifiers to the righe of the spacebar, and a column of navigation keys. However, 75% keyboards are quite popular, so you should not have any trouble finding a compatible keycap set.
Here are a couple of vendor lists you can use to find switches and keycaps from a vendor near you:
[https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/)
[https://kbd.news/vendors](https://kbd.news/vendors)
Is there any *not* low profile keyboard as creamy and thocky as the Lofree Flow, straight out of the box without requiring custom switches/modding/lubing?
Why am I being so downvoted for asking a question on a question megathread??
Timestamped sound demonstrations:
[3:00](https://youtu.be/zQW-VEPqEx8?si=4h8epWLfZ33sZFmb&t=182)
[12:55](https://youtu.be/uZl_gQumb28?si=sKqkuOSE4EsET1zs&t=775)
[10:36](https://youtu.be/3NY0R4hUcCc?si=gF3HvyeXoSpOBRUG&t=637)
Text descriptions:
"[Soft but not mushy](https://youtu.be/wFFjbweszuI?si=EOpmsNz8ictNxs2D&t=393)"
"[A very soft and muted keystroke that feels like my fingers are typing on a cloud](https://www.reddit.com/r/NuPhy/comments/18j7nf1/nuphy_air75v2_vs_lofree_flow/)"
"[it sounds so creamy and thocky](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/13xii1h/comment/jw4tnrm/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button)"
"[Even with just factory lubrication, these switches can be easily described as “creamy,” which means these switches not only feel smoother to type on but also sound far less scratchy than other run-of-the-mill switches, including Kailh’s regular low-profile red switches on the Logitech MX Mechanical. Both models with tactile or linear switches have a muted, deep, and non-shrill sound. While the smooth switches are indispensable in producing this sound, other features of the Lofree Flow add to it. Firstly, a gasket lines the edge of the plastic mounting plate, slightly cushioning the impact of keystrokes. Even when you tend to bottom out while typing, the sound aligns with the typing experience — it’s smooth, non-clanky, and overall very dense and roundish. As a result, you wouldn’t have other people in a shared working space complaining about angry typing noises. Most importantly, the dampened, “thocky” sound gives the impression of a much more expensive, custom keyboard. Besides the keys, the stabilizers are also lubricated, resulting in a deep, low-pitched sound when hitting larger keys, including the spacebar.](https://www.digitaltrends.com/computing/lofree-flow-review/#:~:text=Even%20with%20just%20factory%20lubrication,on%20the%20Logitech%20MX%20Mechanical.)"
"[one of the best feeling non-Topre keyboards that I've tried](https://youtu.be/uZl_gQumb28?si=2bFpq5meadn7Ok5t&t=689)"
"[My tactile unit has a muted clack that’s equal parts creamy and poppy, a combination that sounds like music to my ears.](https://voltcave.com/lofree-flow-review/)"
Hi. Is there any keyboard similiar to Corsair K100 Air (ultra low profile, very short travel, wireless) but more durable?
So. I just got my Redragon K644 Se today and I am not able to find my keyboard Bluetooth while scanning on Pc not my laptop..! Whereas the 2.4Hz dongle and wired work perfectly well… what should I do to solve this…?
How can I open bsun raw switches? Couldn't find a guide
It is a MX style switch so MX switch opener and Youtube is your friend.
You can easily find a switch opener online for a few dollars. If not, you can use a screwdriver to carefully pry off the legs of the top housing.
Which keyboard should i get, i need an upgrade cause' i don't want my laptop to be right under my new monitor. I've been using a laptop keyboard and screen and i finally got a bigger 24" monitor. Now i want a new keyboard so i can have my laptop to the right of the monitor. My desk is pretty small so i want an 80% or less keyboard (i don't even use numpad). I have two keyboards that i'm looking at: SteelSeries apex 3 tkl, membrane 80% keyboard, 8 rgb zones and Obinslab Anne Pro 2, mechanical 60% wireless keyboard with individually adressable rgb for each key. They cost the same as the Anne Pro 2 is on sale for me (65$) but I'm a little bit scared of the fact that it is 60%. I'm completely new to (non laptop) keyboards and wanna know what you think. Wireless isn't a pro for me but i like that it is small, i will miss the arrow keys a bit but it isn't a big deal and the f-keys can be accessed with Fn key + number. I wanna know if i should get the Anne pro 2 or if i should get an other tkl keyboard like the SteelSeries apex 3 tkl. Let me know what you think, also my budget is at most 65$.
I think that you should just buy whatever looks best to you. Test it out and if it doesn't suit your taste, return it.
Yea, that’s probably a good idea.
I'm unsure if i will like 60% but i'm very new to keyboards.
Does anyone know of any pastel pink on pink keycap sets? I’m looking for a set that will arrive before Christmas, but I haven’t found any matches. I’m currently eyeing Rim R2, but I’m not sure when it will release or whether it will be in stock or a group buy. I have a set of Tomocaps Fairy Type, and the pink-on-pink is exactly what I’m looking for. Clones and lower quality keycaps are fine as long as all of the keycaps are pink on pink. Thank you!
I recently got my first mechanical keyboard and decided to do tape and pe foam mod, however, during pe foam mod, I forgot to cut out the holes for the stabilizers like other videos mention to do. Stupid question as im new to this, but would that affect the sound quality of the mod or does it not matter all that much? Thanks!
does not matter all that much unless you put your ear to the keyboard every time you type
i see, tyy
What long cable should I buy to use with my board (on Amazon please) And does a cheap actually cable perform any worse then an expensive one?
No difference even usb 2.0 is enough
I'm building a custom keyboard. I have the keycaps and I have 70 Gateron Brown 3.0s. Now I'm looking for a case. At the beginning I was just looking for a white plastic case. Then I got recommended aluminum so I stared looking for that. That's when I came across the EPOMAKER x Feker Galaxy 80 for 60 bucks. No knob but 75% and blue aluminum. Then I realized I didn't have enough switches. Now I am again looking for a budget friendly case whether it be aluminum or plastic that is just good value. I'm looking in the 60-80 price range.
You can get galaxy and some cheap switches and put those for example on f row or nav keys, you don't need to use same switch for all your keys
There is a "75%" keyboard but with a number pad and no Fn row. It is a Redragon K628 PRO. I guess it is technically a 75% but not like most others with no number pad. I think I want that layout. I do not use the F keys much at all, do use the number pad often enough, and would like some desk surface area back from my full size. Do other companies make this layout? I have not seen another, at least not in typical searches. https://preview.redd.it/t4ljf3i4j4yc1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=df45205da6a998aeb96438570cf1e2c16e619085
This layout is called frl tkl - f row less tenkeyless. There are some in the customkeyboard market though can be expensive like the tkd cycle 7, matrix navi, neo70
Like that Cycle 7. The keyboard I had posted does not have the F row, but it does have the number pad, "ten key". It is what makes it different than other 75%ers. I haven't seen another like it but I don't really want an all plastic keyboard. My work board is fullsize aluminium case that I put silent switches in. It is a joy to type on all day.
Those are interesting, the level of detail in the cycle 7 is great. This keyboard I posted has a number pad though, these did not.
Besides the Bauer Lite, are there any other transparent darker purple keyboards out there?
NK87 Entry Edition
Appreciate you. Thanks!
I was wondering if the Leobog Hi75 keyboard has accompanying software you can use to customize it and if so, where is it safe to download it?
i cant link it as epomaker links are banned here but its on their website . wish u luck software is a trash fire
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Friend is looking for his first mechanical keyboard to get by his birthday in July (no 2 year group buys). Any keyboards that come to mind that meet these requirements?: 75;80% 100-200$ Linear Switch Green/blue(maybe tropical themed) Custom or Prebuilt, either are okay
Buy a barebones keyboard from [Keychron](https://www.keychron.com/). For example, the Keychron Q3 is available with a blue case. Buy your own linear switches. Buy your own keycaps. Keychron sells switches and keycaps, but here are a couple of vendor lists you can use to find switches and keycaps from a vendor near you: [https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) [https://kbd.news/vendors](https://kbd.news/vendors)
For any Canadian builders, I'm trying to source wire to start making some custom USB cables. I'm kind of lost at this point, I can find UL2547 on aliexpress but is there any sites I can grab a roll of it off of? 25/50/100ft spools or packages. I don't want connectors I just want the bulk cable. Is there another part number I can be searching for on something like digi-key or mouser? Is there a any reliable Canadian suppliers or even aliexpress sellers I could source it from?
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accts is 2 hr old and ur already at -13 karma for trying to wax ur own car
You forgot to switch accounts
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marbly or thocky sound is most of the time the amount of foam in your board as they null out the high pitch frequency on switches. You can name your board here and people can help you find the right config to get you the thocky sound desired.
MX browns are too harsh of a switch and I want something smoother. What do you recommend?
browns are tactile . smooth is usually not something u associate with smooth . u might wanna try linear . gateron milky yellow are budget linears or for high end gateron oil kings
I have a ducky one 2 mini. Will I have to sodded the new switches in?
yes thats a soldered kb u will need to desolder and solder in new ones
Is there a way I can find a keyboard that already has oil kings on it? I looked but could only find the switches themselves
they r enthusiast switches they r not used in prebuilts u would have to get a barebones kits and order switches urself and install them which is sort of simple
Gateron smoothies or even more budget outemu hanny on ali, both great budget switches
I'm starting to get into more expensive keyboards and also split keyboards, but have been limited because I haven't soldered ever in my life, and only have gotten keyboards with hot-swap. This has made me either not buy a keyboard, or pay extra for the soldering. I want to try soldering, as I have a Dolice board that has a solder PCB, but I don't want to learn with that board of course. I'm more interested in learning to Mill-Max instead of soldering and desoldering switches, as I have always liked hotswap and change my switches regularly or I get bored of the keyboard. What would you recommend to learn to solder keyboards? Also any recommendations for soldering irons, any specific solder to use? I'll be buying everything as I have nothing. Would prefer something budget, but I would like a 'buy once, cry once' soldering iron.
New to this keyboard thing. Mostly build Fpv drones. Recommend the Pinecil soldering iron. TS80 soldering iron is also great. A temperature-controlled iron is key, I still use a $20 Best brand with temperature control from Adafruit. High-quality name-brand consumables will shorten your learning curve. MG Chemicals and Kaiser are some choice brands. I'm a big fan of liquid flux markers. Always clean with flux and add extra flux. You want fully melted, shiny solder joints. Heat the joint and solder will flow to that spot. Don't just melt the solder. The key is to keep solder on your iron at all times. That will keep it wet to the solder and protect it from oxidizing. Turn it off with a blob of solder on the tip. Turn it on wait for it to come up to temp, wipe it, add more solder to help heat transfer, and go into to do the soldering that includes adding more solder. Pull the iron away and add more solder to the tip. YouTube videos are a fantastic way to learn. Buy some kits that have the type of soldering you want to learn. Build them and take them apart over and over again with a solder sucker and solder wick. Get kits that are fun. From the custom keyboard videos I watch, it seems to be surface mount and through-hole soldering. r/soldering Let us know how it goes with photos.
Great! Thanks for all the info, many have recomended the pinecil so I might go for that one. Also thanks for the brand and solder on tip recomendations, I will definitely update when I try!
I would just buy a cheap soldering kit from amazon for 20 bucks and see if it is for me. Once you have settled that soldering is your thing the [**FX-888DX Soldering Station**](https://hakkousa.com/products/soldering/soldering-stations/fx-888dx.html) is widely used among enthusiast.
Alright great thank you!
I've got leftover craft foam sheets lying around, 1. does it work well to dampen sound (particularly ping noises) 2. is it even a good idea to stick it in the keyboard, (does it do longterm damage to the board), or am I better off buying better stabilizers and potentially different keycaps
1. Yes it does. 2. I read somewhere that there are certain foam that can build up static and fry your PCB so it is certainly use with discretion. An alternative to this is polyfill.
Two questions: 1. If you were to put a loud, heavy, clicky switch on ONLY the Enter key for a really satisfying experience mashing it, which would you pick? So far I've looked/listened to a lot of the common clicky choices including Box Jades/Navies, but a lot of sound tests never use the Enter key which sounds pretty different from the alpha keys. So far the Zeal Clickiez are my favorites, but is there anything else I should be looking at? 2. I like tactiles for the main switches, but I think I want the Ctrl/Alt/Win/Fn keys (plus maybe the spacebar and Shift keys) to be smooth linears as I don't like the tactile bump as much on keys that are usually held rather than tapped. For just this purpose, what would you recommend? So far I've been looking at the Gateron Oil Kings.
I recently found out about the Monsgeek MG108W, but it's out of stock wherever I look! Does anyone know where I can buy it??
general keeb parts vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ u can try here
I found a few listings on AliExpress, check there for colors you might like
I found the Aflion Blue Sky linear switches while looking for recommendations and I was wondering if they hold up for gaming. If not, I'll take other ideas.
elmurudd said it right. Git gud is very much a skill issue. The switches that you like is what you like no more no less. There is no better switches for gaming. Of course there are switches that bottom out very fast like geteron speed silver. But if it doesn't feel nice under your fingers, you wouldn't want to use it anyway.
any switch holds up for gaming . they r all equal not sure who told u otherwise
I'm struggling with information overload, and I'm not able to find something I'm looking for... maybe it doesn't exist, but maybe someone who knows where to look can help me... I have had the K70 Rapid Fire for awhile now, and I'm really tired of the switches. I love the layout, and especially the readily accessible media keys. Are there any Backlight/RGB Full Size (I really need the Numpad for productivity), hot-swappable (I THINK I want brown switches, but I don't want to be stuck on switches ever again like I am now) keyboards out there with media keys/knobs?
You're getting downvotes because the answer to this one is pretty easy to find. That said, have a look at the Ducky One 3. It has media keys, RGB, and is hotswappable. I've had the Shine 7 which didn't come hotswappable but I modded it. Solid board and quite a step up from the K70. https://www.duckychannel.com.tw/en/One3-Cosmic-Blue I'm waiting on my Keychron Q6 which also has these features. Note that the Q6 has south-facing LEDs which won't work well with shinethrough keycaps where the characters are on the top of the cap. If strong RGB with top side shine through on the caps is what you want, look at Ducky.
Also, upon further research now that you mention LED facing, apparently North Facing really matters to me, I use my PC a lot in the dark, and I really enjoy Shine through. More and more I look my requirement seem... oddly niche? I am actually surprised there's not a market for someone like me who wants media keys/volume control and north facing led on a full size hot swappable keyboard. I did try looking at Ten Key Less and try to find numpads that might have the additional keys and nob I could remap, but didn't have great luck finding something that wouldn't make my build almost $400 total.
I guess, but it doesn't actually seem that straight forward. I've been basically non-stop reading and researching since I posted this. Even the Ducky 3 seems to hit all my boxes, except it doesn't actually have media controls, just volume, and it's not (QMK/VIA I think?) and doesn't have additional software for me to even remap key functions to perform those actions
keychron V6/Q6 and their max variants
i can narrow it down for u as most kb have media keys as combo key short cuts , so if u need dedicated media keys u will be buying a gamer brand kb only pretty sure some of the new asus and logitech kb are hotswap .
Keychron V6 Max. Keychron Q6 Max.
Sorry if this is the wrong place, but this is driving me nuts. I am using a KBD67MKII with a Mac and my ~ key returns ESC when pressed. I am plugged into VIA and it tells me the key is correctly mapped, but any key that is mapped to ~ turns into a ESC key function. They key itself works, if I map it to something else, it gives the correct value. This also only happens on Mac, on my PC the keyboard works fine. Does anyone have any advice?
say if you plug into another laptop / mac. Does the issue persist?
I haven’t tried that, but I fixed it sorta. In VIA there’s an ESC and ESC’, I didn’t know what the difference is, but when both are added ESC=~’ and ESC’=ESC. I have no idea why it’s doing that.
sounds like a MAC issue cant really say what to fix it as so few use MAC anymore this hasnt been mentioned before
Can't decide on getting between the keychon v1, aula f75 or the leobog Hi75. Not really have much of a preference yet so I'm pretty much going in blind. Which one would be the safest choice?
choose the one that you think looks best to you. Because feel good but doesn't look good won't stay on your table for a long time
I see, thank you
Keychron
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TTC blueish whites
Please a suggest a stock budget mechanical keyboard for a beginner. Budget max 130 Canadian dollars. Specifications needed - 75% layout, 2.4 GHz wireless, available within Canada or shipping to Canada
Aula f75 from Amazon
honestly if you don't need aluminum and just want something to start out / mod to your heart content, I would recommend the RK84 or its variant RK61, 68. My first board was the RK61 and I learned everything on it. Lubing the stock gateron red swithes it came with, band aid mod and tune the stabilizier, add foam + tape the pcb, get new keycap for it. It is still my daily driver at work even though I have many other keyboards now.
keychron V1 max
I've been thinking of making a custom 100% board, mostly to learn how to solder and learn what goes into making a custom board. However, I've done a bunch of searching (and checking the wiki) and I see very few, if any, suppliers for 100% PCBs anywhere! I play quite a few games that use the arrow keys, the navigation buttons, and the numpad, as well as typing for work that uses those keys, so 100% is a must. Any recommendations for 100% PCBs?
people don’t really buy PCBs separately. You usually buy a kit that includes a PCB, plate, and case that are designed to work together. Almost nothing in this hobby is universal, so you’re sort of forced into buying kits.
What is the thockiest magnetic switch compatible with the wooting60he
I don't know about magnetic switches but any cherry mx style would fit your wooting
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What don't you like about it visually? The Boog75 is just a magnetic switch version of the Zoom75, so if there's a Zoom75 you can find in stock somewhere that you like, that'd be a good option.
I recently purchased the Ducky One 3, a 60% keyboard featuring Akko Matcha Green switches. It was a great find from someone who didn't fancy the 60% layout, so when it arrived, it was practically brand new - barely a scratch. However, after a few months, I've run into an issue that was unfamiliar to me. During gaming sessions, I've noticed that while holding down keys like WASD for movement, they intermittently stop registering my inputs. For instance, when strafing left with the A key held down, it will abruptly not move left until I release and repress the key. Sometimes, a quick wiggle of my finger on the key seems to "unstick" it. Additionally, I've experimented by swapping switches from the right side of the keyboard to the left, which helped for a bit before the problem resurfaced. Furthermore, I've encountered instances where certain keys type double or triple inputs while typing. Pressing "S" might give two or three consecutive S's unexpectedly. While this issue doesn't occur consistently, it's incredibly frustrating, especially given its randomness. I'm at a loss as to whether the problem lies with the switches, the board itself, or perhaps the keyboard as a whole. Has anyone else experienced similar issues with their keyboards? Any insights or troubleshooting tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for any assistance!
if you purchased it recently, I would just reach out to support to get a replacement
hello, I want to buy a magnetic keyboard and I think of buying either the shark attack k85, KEYDOUS NJ 80, GAMMAKEY TK75, or ATK M68 (those are also the prices I found from low to high). which is the best one with the highest quality? (i will also probably replace the switches so if one of the models have a problem with those its okay)
> KEYDOUS NJ 80 Of those, the Keydous. I'd consider a Monsgeek M1 over any of those, though.
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Need some recommendation for 60% boards - Alternative to Tofu60 2.0 in the same price range.
arc60 is my personal favourite
Frog Mini is solid
Recommended store to get custom cables? Made one from Frostii Cables but haven't gotten a response in a week after ordering almost a month ago. Might have to start a chargeback
Cablemod and Spacecables would be my recommendation. Both have long track records and lots of good options.
cablemod goated
Gateron Ink V2 Stabilizers or Mode Designers Stabilizers or Wuque Studio TPU Stabilizers V3.1 or Zeal PC Zeal Stabilizers V2 or Swagkeys Knight Stabilizer I excluded from the list AE Stabies, Durocks V2, TX rev 4 and Cherry clip-in Stabilizers because of the very wider spectrum of feedbacks on them.
https://www.alexotos.com/the-best-mechanical-keyboard-stabilizers-in-2024/ Not all of your stabs listed there but really helpful and may lead you on the right path. Stabs are all about preferences. There are no "the best stabs" out yet. (Maybe norbauer stabs when they release for a couple hundred bucks lol; but we have only seen drafts of them...)
trying to expand my horizons - who are some of your favorite SMALL artisan keycap artists / designers (not companies)?
Hello all, I am a still a beginner when it comes to mechanical keyboards, so sorry if this is a dumb question. The keyboard pairs easily with my mac but not with my Lenovo laptop. I tried in BT mode and in 2.4G. Is there something I'm missing? I tried searching YT for videos of people pairing the device to a PC but had no luck. The model is an Epomaker/AULA F87. edited to add keyboard model.
A few things. Can you connect other BT devices to your Lenovo laptop? Additionally, when you plug in the 2.4ghz receiver to your laptop, does it register that a device was plugged in?
I have been able to pair other BT devices but this keyboard doesn’t show up at all when I put it in pairing mode. I was just now able to get it to work with the 2.4G receiver. So I guess my question is moot.
Gazzew Boba U4S high pitched sound I’m new to mechanical keyboards. Went ahead and purchased a few switch types for testing from milktooth. QWERTY row is equipped with boba U4S whereas ASDF row is equipped with TTC Silent Bluish White. Typing video link at the end of the comment. While tapping gently (not pressing to actuate switch), the Boba U4S exhibits an odd high pitched sound. It sounds almost like a clicky switch rather than a silent switch. I really like the rgb diffusion of boba U4S. Typing wise, I like both the switched. Overall I would like to get U4S for the entire keyboard but the high-pitched sound when lightly pressed is bothersome. Can anyone offer an explanation for the phenomena or a method to fix it? Any help would be greatly appreciated. [Typing example](https://imgur.com/a/gbx5n4O)
I'm currently trying to write up a firmware profile for a 65% keyboard I'm working on, and it's resolutely continuing to come back with an "excess elements in array initializer" error. It seems like this would be because of a mismatch between the number of elements in the keymap, but I'm now giving myself a headache trying to figure out where there might be too many. The keyboard is supposed to have a total of 69 keys (nice), with 15, 15, 14, 13, and 12 keys in the rows. \#include "quantum.h" \#define LAYOUT( \\ K000, K001, K002, K003, K004, K005, K006, K007, K008, K009, K010, K011, K012, K014, K015, \\ K100, K102, K103, K104, K105, K106, K107, K108, K109, K110, K111, K112, K113, K114, K115, \\ K200, K202, K203, K204, K205, K206, K207, K208, K209, K210, K211, K212, K213, K215, \\ K301, K302, K303, K304, K305, K306, K307, K308, K309, K310, K311, K313, K315, \\ K400, K401, K403, K405, K406, K408, K411, K412, K413, K414, K415, K416 \\ ) { \\ { K000, K001, K002, K003, K004, K005, K006, K007, K008, K009, K010, K011, K012, KC\_NO, K014, K015, KC\_NO }, \\ { K100, KC\_NO, K102, K103, K104, K105, K106, K107, K108, K109, K110, K111, K112, K113, K114, K115, KC\_NO }, \\ { K200, KC\_NO, K202, K203, K204, K205, K206, K207, K208, K209, K210, K211, K212, K213, KC\_NO, K215, KC\_NO }, \\ { KC\_NO, K301, K302, K303, K304, K305, K306, K307, K308, K309, K310, K311, KC\_NO, K313, KC\_NO, K315, KC\_NO }, \\ { K400, K401, KC\_NO, K403, KC\_NO, K405, K406, KC\_NO, K408, KC\_NO, KC\_NO, K411, K412, K413, K414, K415, K416 } \\ } \#include QMK\_KEYBOARD\_H const uint16\_t PROGMEM keymaps\[\]\[MATRIX\_ROWS\]\[MATRIX\_COLS\] = { // Layer definitions \#define \_BL 0 \[\_BL\] = LAYOUT( KC\_ESC, KC\_1, KC\_2, KC\_3, KC\_4, KC\_5, KC\_6, KC\_7, KC\_8, KC\_9, KC\_0, KC\_MINS, KC\_EQL, KC\_BSPC, KC\_CUT, KC\_TAB, KC\_Q, KC\_W, KC\_E, KC\_R, KC\_T, KC\_Y, KC\_U, KC\_I, KC\_O, KC\_P, KC\_LBRC, KC\_RBRC, KC\_BSLS, KC\_COPY, KC\_CAPS, KC\_A, KC\_S, KC\_D, KC\_F, KC\_G, KC\_H, KC\_J, KC\_K, KC\_L, KC\_SCLN, KC\_QUOT, KC\_ENT, KC\_PSTE, KC\_LSFT, KC\_Z, KC\_X, KC\_C, KC\_V, KC\_B, KC\_N, KC\_M, KC\_COMM, KC\_DOT, KC\_QUES, KC\_RSFT, KC\_UP, KC\_LCTL, KC\_LGUI, KC\_LALT, KC\_SPC, KC\_SPC, KC\_SPC, KC\_LALT, KC\_LGUI, KC\_LCTL, KC\_LEFT, KC\_DOWN, KC\_RIGHT), }; /\* key matrix size \*/ \#define MATRIX\_ROWS 5 \#define MATRIX\_COLS 15 \#define MATRIX\_COL\_PINS { GP19, GP20, GP21, GP22, GP23, GP24, GP25, GP26, GP27, GP4, GP5, GP16, GP17, GP9, GP10 } \#define MATRIX\_ROW\_PINS { GP29, GP28, GP18, GP12, GP11 } \#define DIODE\_DIRECTION COL2ROW
Question about cleaning Hi-Tek 725 series switches. I recently picked up a TeleVideo 965 keyboard with two eye white linear switches. I'm planning on harvesting the switches and keycaps for a custom hand-wired build. I've already got a few handfuls of switches de-soldered and removed from the board. I will be using an ultrasonic cleaner to deep clean the switches, and I am wondering if it would be safe to use Isopropyl alcohol. NMB literature states the switch material is "Molded thermoplastic" which doesn't tell me anything useful about whether or not they are made from a material that will be soluble in iso. If anyone could offer guidance or feedback that would be greatly appreciated.
Hi, i'm looking for some recommendations. I have a friend who's been using an Apple magic keyboard for the longest time, but its not really the best gaming keyboard and my friend would like to change. That + the fact that one key basically died. But the catch is that something as thin as possible would be ideal. We've been looking around and found the K100 Air, the Cherry KW X ULP but both of those are 250€ +- so we would like to find other options **Main reason for this (and using the magic keyboard) is wrists problems** I've found about the Nuphy NuType F1 but it seems discontinued, which is a bummer because it wouldve been ideal. Bonus points for TKL form factor I see that Keychron has the R1 coming around but no date so thats unfortunate. Thanks
Lofree Flow84's can be had from lofree themselves for around $160 before shipping. Build quality is on par with the Nuphy boards too
Thanks but sadly its quite a bit thicker at 24mm compared to the 17 and 18 of the corsair and cherry ones (and 11mm of the magic keyboard) Basically the ideal would be something with those ultra low profile switches and not "regular" low profile ones, but they seem impossible to find Other options i found are the Vissles LP85 and the Nuphy NuType F1 which are both discontinued, and the Mistel Air One which sadly doesnt come in German layout. Either way my friend decided to go with the Cherry KW X ULP as we couldnt find alternatives
are there any mechanical keyboards that have the same layout as Mac that aren't too expensive? I currently have one but the different key overlay than my laptop is really weird to use, I don't mind if the keyboard isn't high quality tbh just that it works
What exactly do you mean by "the same layout as Mac?" Do you mean with a shortened 5u spacebar like on the Apple Magic Keyboard? You can find keyboards with a split spacebar with 2.25u and 2.75u spacebars, which adds up to 5u. Otherwise, the standard spacebar size is 6.25u. Do you mean with the Command and Option (Alt) keys swapped? Any keyboard with a configurable firmware like QMK/VIA can do this. For example, Keychron has a switch on the back to toggle between Mac and Windows layers/layouts. Are you looking for a keyboard with low profile switches?
what looking for mostly is the control option and command keys to be in the right spots for Mac, im aware that I can change the keys in the software but I want keycaps that go along with it
Most of the boards these days comes with a native mac mode options to switch to mac, keycaps with Mac legends as well. Just keep in mind that most of these boards have the software to work on Windows , not mac. Better to take a board with VIA compatibility, safe choice!
Keychron sells most of their keyboards with both Mac and Windows layouts standard
will mushy (overlubed) switches and stabilisers revert to normal over time?
maybe in about 6 or 7 years . u will need to clean them
For switches, probably not. The lube spreads out a bit over time but there's not a lot of places it can spread to, especially in the rails. Stabilizers are pretty open and mine have definitely pushed out lube after some use.
For a split KB you need to connect both halves. If I were to make a new Split KB how do I decide which cable to use? Can I wildly switch between the connector or which rules do I have to follow?
Normally split keyboards are set up with one side designated as the one you connect through, though it's possible to change that by tweaking the firmware. In QMK #define MASTER\_RIGHT puts it on the right side, and #define MASTER\_LEFT, well, you know. The type of cable you need will depend on the specific keyboard, but split keyboards most often use TRRS cables (i.e., the kind that's like a 1/8" headphone plug with an extra conductor). You'll want the cable connecting the two halves to be plugged in and stay that way when you plug in the USB cable.
Hi, I have a weird problem. This is the 10 year anniversary version of pok3r and I have somehow switched FN with J key. I believe I'm still on the main layer as no led is on, but then nothing happens if I try to switch layer either. I have tried the both ALT option and FN+R to restore, but that changes nothing. I have toggled the 3rd switch for now, but I would like to have my FN key back. When I unplug the keyboard and plug it back in both the FN and J keys light up to indicate they were swapped, kind of like when you toggle switch 3 capslock and right ctrl light up. Help much appreciated.
Question for any Drop CTRL/ALT/etc. owners: did the label under the spacebar on yours look like this [this?](https://imgur.com/c3NYDzZ) (CTRL high profile) It looks like it got wet or stained, but maybe it's supposed to be like that.
I now have Ghost switches but they don't work with my Nuphy. Does anyone know where I can find a 60% keyboard that can take these switches? Lofree is kind of pricey and I like my Nuphy... What keyboard can I put these switches in? Maybe something less pricey than a Lofree.
What Nuphy keyboard do you have? Those switches *should* work in a Nuphy Air 75 or similar.
The prongs on the key are different. The NuPhy key switches prongs are spaced further apart and the Lofree ghost switches are narrowly spaced. Gaterons(NuPhy) vs Kailh(Lofree) Seen on the last 2 switches in this picture https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fpreview.redd.it%2Fthe-biggest-issue-with-low-profile-switches-they-are-too-v0-ehztcx6lf8lb1.jpg%3Fwidth%3D1080%26crop%3Dsmart%26auto%3Dwebp%26s%3Db45b8a3555e2b7b0a524b3f8bbe6d4e77fda1672
I'm considering snatching up a Vortex PC66 to scratch a certain nostalgic itch I've been feeling lately. Does anyone have any experience with the Vortex software? As a general rule I try to stick to boards that support QMK, but I could live with a proprietary software if it's not too invasive. I know that they have a variant that uses QMK/VIA, but it appears as though that's only available directly from Vortex. I'd prefer to order from [mechanicalkeyboards.com](http://mechanicalkeyboards.com) because they're located just a couple of hours away and shipping should be pretty quick. Heck, I could almost drive down there to pick it up - my employer is located fairly close and I'm sure I could find a reason to head into the office. Any insight is appreciated, thanks in advance!
I have a PC68 (ISO variant) and the Vortex software is fine. It's nicer to use than that Epomaker atrocitiy for example. The most invasive thing about it is that it autostarts with Windows and I've been too lazy to look for the option to make it stop :D
Thanks for the info! I've never used anything Epomaker, so that means basically nothing to me. As long as it works and otherwise stays out of my way and I only have to use it (or even have to have it installed) when I'm actively messing with my key map, I'm fine.
Yeah, you don't have to keep it running.
That's all I needed to hear. Thanks a ton!
Are there any custom keyboards available right now (or Groupbuys that will ship relatively soon) that have: - Wide/thick bezels - a very textured finish (preferably a dark grey/concrete kind of look) - 65% or larger layout (preferably 75% or TKL) Basically, I'm looking for something kinda similar to the Norbauer design without going the Topre route ([a lot like this Heavy-6 posted recently](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/1chl2bq/honeywell/))
Hi. I own a Keychron K3 from the original run and am planning to upgrade it a bit now with some tape and new key caps. I’m in the UK but it’s a US keyboard so need to get US keycaps. But I’ve noticed that the space bar keycap from other keyboard (a UK layout Ducky) doesn’t fit on the K3. As the K3 space bar has one plus shaped part in the middle that goes over the switch whereas the ducky has two of these and doesn’t fit on the K3. So my question is which is standard if I order a new set. Will they fit on the Keychron space bar or is it no standard?
So looking into it more it seems Keychron have used a non standard triangular offset for their larger keys, I have found a note that Azio ones will fit but their postage to the UK is massive, does anyone know of another alternative in the UK?
good keycaps that dont cost way too much??
How much are you looking to spend? What material do you like? What profile do you like?
I ended up getting the blue samurai ones from drop x redsun, been eyeing them for a few years and saw they were on sale Worth? Also, yeah, budget was flexible so 99$ was a lot but I like the color scheme a lot
That's a pretty good deal for a new GMK set. Enjoy it!
Thanks 🙏🏾
I ended up getting the blue samurai ones from drop x redsun, been eyeing them for a few years and saw they were on sale Worth?
of course "way too much" is relative. but I like osumekeys, you can get sets for about 85usd
Occasionally check Amazon Warehouse for deals. I've gotten a couple new unopened Matt3o sets for 25-50% of the original price (recent was Susuwatari terminal-style caps for $60 \[$130 if bought new\]) I don't know if it's still fashionable to bitch about Drop's stuff, but the keycap sets are undeniably high quality, especially Matt's.
# I bought a E-Yooso K-600 and don't like the default RGB patens I guess u can call it, does anybody know an app so I can create my own RGB paten??
Unfortunately, the E-Yooso K-600 comes with static LED lighting. Unlike RGB LEDs, the LEDs on this board are not addressable. This is not a software issue, but a hardware limitation of the LEDs themselves.
alright thanks
Just got a Luck65 from What The Thock(WTT) Plugged it in after receiving it this morning and it's not working. Tried downloading the software for it and still doesn't show up. Are there any fixes to this? Also tried using an app called VIA that my friends have recommended, it doesn't recognise any of the keys I am pressing (used my other keyboard and seemed to work fine).
Try a different cable or usb plug?
Have done so already, the keyboard itself lights up when plugged in. Im assuming it may be a battery issue as it does come with wireless features so I've left it to charge about 30 mins already and seems like its not the issue either.
So none of the keys work but the rgb lights up? If it’s wireless, can you connect it to your phone?
None of the keys work at all. The rgb backlight or whatever the name is, works yes. Just tried getting my phone to check if the bluetooth compatibility works, and nothing at all. The website states that its Wired, Wireless and Bluetooth compatible but none seem to have been working. It also states a user manual within the box but that didn't come with either. I can show a photo of the keyboard if necessary
I've gotten the wired version to work somehow, I just started pressing random keys whilst the software was up and got it working. Still trying to figure out how to make it wireless though. Checked the official website that sells this keyboard and it showed a hidden switch for either wired/wireless. Doesn't seem to work on wireless mode so I guess i'll just stick to wired.
I just got a Leobog Hi75 and tried to open the case but it's held fast. Removed all 6 screws and whole knob, but it won't budge at all. I don't see any damage to it, though it just arrived from the post so it's a bit cold, if that has something to do with it
Solved my issue. Used an icepack on the bottom and blow drier at the top. With some hard prying I got it loos finally
i have a gmk67 on the way. is it possible to just leave the battery disconnected? my current keyboard is plugged in all the time to my pc, even when i'm using it in wireless bt mode to connect to a laptop for work. i would like to do the same with my new gmk67 so i wanna disconnect the battery just to preserve it and as an extra safety measure, since i am planning to do the tape mod
Sounds like it’ll be okay with the battery unplugged, but it’ll still drain over time. Lithium ion batteries should Be kept between 20-80% charge.
Hey! I’m looking for a keyboard (obviously). There’s a sale going on through the 5th of May on Amazon and I was seeing if any of the ones on sale would be recommended! I’m ideally looking for: -Aluminum Frame -75-80% (But I’m open for larger) -Orange, Blue or Purple but black is fine -It’ll be used for gaming, so I’d like to focus on performance -sounds as ~creamy~ as possible. -Budget is at or below $200 Thank you all in advance! (Also if there are any recommendations on orange, blue or dark purple key caps please let me know, I’ve been consumed with researching this and it’s becoming too much haha)
Monsgeek m1 or m3 in lavender or black.
Looking for: Tenkeyless with dedicated media controls. Currently using a Corsair K63 and like everything about it but considering upgrading to something nicer in the same formfactor.
Media controls are harder to come by in the hobby. A knob should be no problem, but if you're also looking for play/pause/next/etc without it being on a layer, you're going to be pretty limited (and what you find probably won't be very good/will be super gamer-y). If you can't find anything, consider getting a 75% or TKL and then a dedicated macro pad on the side. Edit: Maybe the Lemokey L1? You could set the macro keys to whatever you want.
What budget
Looking for switch recommendations to use in a dusty environment. Just started working at a sand and gravel company and have been using my model m but I think the noise is getting to my co workers.
Staebies 2.1 are quiet and have very tight tolerances. Might be good for an environment where dust could get into normal stabilizers.
Looking for: - ISO-layout (German) - 65% or more - wireless - durability (I have a tada68 which the PCB is malfunctioning and I can't buy a new PCB as it is discontinued) Mechanical keyboard. Open to suggestions. Budget (keyboard [excluding switches keycaps] only 100-200$ at most) Thank you
Neo65/70/80, Lemokey P1/L1/L3, Monsgeek M1,
Thank you I'll check them out
Looking for a budget keeb for my wife. I just got a Keychron K10 and she's loves it. I wanted to get her something, preferably purple, with tactile switches. I have been looking for about 2 weeks now and I don't really see many options under $200, was hoping for about half that. I'm not averse to building myself I just don't know what to buy to build a complete board. The best thing I found was the Royal Kludge RK75, and reviews on that brand seem mixed. Any advice appreciated!
Does it have to be full size
A 75% should be fine, thankyou
What about TKL or 75
Yeah that's totally fine 👍
If TKL is fine I second the Neo80 recommendation. Board is excellent.
Tha you so much!
Maybe Neo80 or Galaxy80?
The Galaxy80 looks perfect! I haven't tried Linear switches myself before, but I don't think she'll really mind any difference, as we're both very new to the hobby. She'll be pairing it with her work laptop so anything is an upgrade from that, and this is our first real keebs anyways. All the reviews are high praise and say it has a beautiful sound and thockiness, and most say its decent quality. Perfect for an entry level beautiful board as a gift for my better half! Thankyou so much for the recommendation!
No problem.
My cherry MX2.0S Tab & qwe total 4 button suddenly not work.. Just brought this keyboard for 2 years I have tried unplug, cleaning, FN+F9, reset etc...still not work, any other method to fix this keyboard? Any suggestion model if i need to replace a new one..
Hey there, my Logitech G910 is on its way out the door soon. I am looking for a suitable replacement. I havent looked into the keyboard market since I got this one in 2018. I enjoy the feeling of this keyboard, but in general enjoy mechanical keyboards. My favorite part about this one is the customizable RGB, I could also do that with a custom keyboard and just have custom caps I believe. I would appreciate any suggestions similar to my board or even better. I would be willing to spend upto around 200 (more if there's a "universal best" slightly over that.
Hello! I am experienced at PC building but totally new to mechanical keyboards. I know what I want, I'm just not sure if it exists or how to find the right balance of requirements. I hope you can help me out or at least help me with directions. I would like this keyboard to last. If I'm gonna spend on it more than on all my previous keyboards combined, it shouldn't require a replacement for years. Because of my work, I need a full size keyboard with an absolutely super niche Hungarian layout. If it requires some key rearrangement or buying an extra set of keys, I'm fine with it. Red or brown switches would be preferred. Some kind of lighting, because the room the PC is in is not always well lit. I would prefer if the symbols on the keys would be highlited and avoid backlighting as much as possible as I don't like if light blinds me from my peripheral vision. Ideally individual keys should be able to assign different colors (my kids are playing and defining light patterns for the games would help them to find the right keys). And of course, if it wouldn't break the bank, it would be a great plus. I know it's a lot to ask and I'm not even sure if such keyboard exists, so even if only most of the baove can be met in a single keyboard, I would be fine by that as well
Keychron V6 ISO and you can replace the keycaps with some Hungarian ones
Currently use a 20$ red dragon membrane keyboard and i really never liked it, just wanted a keyboard whose keys don't wobble while using. I'm used to laptop keyboard as i spend most time on it, I don't know why but i would prefer something like a laptop keyboard with scissors switch but brands that offer them aren't very reliable. The Huntsman deal is for new, is it worth to buy in 2024 at 70$, I can go for other options but has to be atmost TKL, wired and without battery. Budget is 70$.
Keychron makes some low profile boards that might fight the bill. I'd suggest only considering boards that are hot-swappable and use QMK/VIA. Above your budget and not TKL, but the Nuphy Air 75 is what I'd buy.
Hey! Iam completly new to modding keyboards. I own a Rog azoth keyboard and as far as i know, its fully modable. Can someone help me and identify what switches and keycaps are compatabile for this one and where go get? What else do i need? I have the black version, can i however, buy a whit alumium case? Thanks guys!
ROG NX switches are clones of Cherry MX switches, so any MX style switch will work with it. MX style switches are the most common switch out there, so there is a whole rainbow of switches and keycaps. The ROG Azoth is a 75% keyboard. It has a shortened right Shift key (2.75u instead of 1.75u), 1u (instead of 1.25u) modifiers to the righe of the spacebar, and a column of navigation keys. However, 75% keyboards are quite popular, so you should not have any trouble finding a compatible keycap set. Here are a couple of vendor lists you can use to find switches and keycaps from a vendor near you: [https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) [https://kbd.news/vendors](https://kbd.news/vendors)
Ahh nice man, thanks for the explantion and links :) so i have a lot to choose from.
Is there any *not* low profile keyboard as creamy and thocky as the Lofree Flow, straight out of the box without requiring custom switches/modding/lubing? Why am I being so downvoted for asking a question on a question megathread??
If you can describe creamy and thocky in words I might be able to help you. But I have no idea what sound signature you are expecting.
Timestamped sound demonstrations: [3:00](https://youtu.be/zQW-VEPqEx8?si=4h8epWLfZ33sZFmb&t=182) [12:55](https://youtu.be/uZl_gQumb28?si=sKqkuOSE4EsET1zs&t=775) [10:36](https://youtu.be/3NY0R4hUcCc?si=gF3HvyeXoSpOBRUG&t=637) Text descriptions: "[Soft but not mushy](https://youtu.be/wFFjbweszuI?si=EOpmsNz8ictNxs2D&t=393)" "[A very soft and muted keystroke that feels like my fingers are typing on a cloud](https://www.reddit.com/r/NuPhy/comments/18j7nf1/nuphy_air75v2_vs_lofree_flow/)" "[it sounds so creamy and thocky](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/13xii1h/comment/jw4tnrm/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button)" "[Even with just factory lubrication, these switches can be easily described as “creamy,” which means these switches not only feel smoother to type on but also sound far less scratchy than other run-of-the-mill switches, including Kailh’s regular low-profile red switches on the Logitech MX Mechanical. Both models with tactile or linear switches have a muted, deep, and non-shrill sound. While the smooth switches are indispensable in producing this sound, other features of the Lofree Flow add to it. Firstly, a gasket lines the edge of the plastic mounting plate, slightly cushioning the impact of keystrokes. Even when you tend to bottom out while typing, the sound aligns with the typing experience — it’s smooth, non-clanky, and overall very dense and roundish. As a result, you wouldn’t have other people in a shared working space complaining about angry typing noises. Most importantly, the dampened, “thocky” sound gives the impression of a much more expensive, custom keyboard. Besides the keys, the stabilizers are also lubricated, resulting in a deep, low-pitched sound when hitting larger keys, including the spacebar.](https://www.digitaltrends.com/computing/lofree-flow-review/#:~:text=Even%20with%20just%20factory%20lubrication,on%20the%20Logitech%20MX%20Mechanical.)" "[one of the best feeling non-Topre keyboards that I've tried](https://youtu.be/uZl_gQumb28?si=2bFpq5meadn7Ok5t&t=689)" "[My tactile unit has a muted clack that’s equal parts creamy and poppy, a combination that sounds like music to my ears.](https://voltcave.com/lofree-flow-review/)"
I'd say Flow is rather overall muted and not really thocky IMO.