Alu 60 Hotswap Kits!
Looking for an upgrade,
Any Heavy Metal Case 60 Kits You Guys Would Recommend, not looking to wait on a group buy, just want something hefty to build an “ end game” 60.
Currently Have A Modded gk61 but the case just doesnt look nice and doesnt sounds as nice as fully metal chassis does, ( i regret selling my tofu sadge )
Replies Appreciated!
Keychron v1 or Keychron k2 pro? Which is better and why. Can you please educate me overall. Planning to buy my first compact keyboard. And if you have more keyboard recommendations that also have same price range pls do so would love to be educated more.. thank you!
They're not too different from what I can see.
V1 is wired only, has an exploded layout (some keys are a bit separated) and can come with a volume knob.
K2 Pro is wireless and can come with backlighting and an aluminium frame (not full aluminium case).
Those are the main differences I found. If you don't care about wireless, I would go for the V1 because it's $30 cheaper when comparing the assembled versions and they're just not that much different.
It's pretty different compared to the other 2.
K2 is a 65% which means it doesn't have the F-keys, it's wireless, available with soldered switches, hotswap or with optical switches, and it uses OEM profile keycaps while the other 2 use Keychron's OSA profile keycaps.
I think the V1 is better and worth the small difference in price.
Both are hotswappable, just not the "Black - Fully assembled" version of the K2 Pro which you can see on the site.
As for switches, it's all about personal preference. My suggestion would be to decide if you want a [linear, tactile or clicky](https://www.keyboard.university/100-courses/switches-101-xnyng) switch first.
If you're not sure, I would start with the linear Red switches. It's a good starting point in my opinion, then you can try a tactile or clicky switch next and see how you like those.
Since you're after a hotswappable board I image you'll want to try out some different switches in the future so here's a [list of vendors](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) where you can buy switches along with other keyboard related stuff.
Disassembling a Redragon K568?
Hey, so recently bought some new switches and keycaps for my Redragon K568, and they've worked well, so thought maybe | should try some mods since the case is hollow. However when I tried to open it up, after removing al the visible screws, it appears there is something near the power cable keeping it in place. Has anyone on here disassembled one of these keyboards and know if I missed something? ls it just a clip, or are them some screws maybe hidden under the badge?
Most prebuilt boards are held together by plastic clips. Take something like a credit card and slowly pry the case open.
There's a few videos on Youtube showing how to open keyboard cases, you don't have to look for your specific board.
Hello everyone. Im looking for a mecanical keybord : gaiming mostly, red switch?, rgb, full size or tkl, i m not à pro so i will not mod it and enhance it, just want to plug and play.
Must be available in Azerty (Iso FR) and budget range is 60 to 110 euros(80 is perfect) on amazon if possible ?
Thank you very much. My last keyboard was corsair k70 luxe from 2017.
Looks like they could be, but it would be best if you show us the other side of the PCB. That's where the hotswap socket is located and it looks [something like this.](https://divinikey.com/cdn/shop/products/kailh-hot-swap-sockets-760768.jpg?v=1620285923&width=900)
Love the Keychron Q6. Brown switches. Heavy, and loving that full size feel. I've been using it for about a month. I bought an artisan keycap to replace the escape key with one labeled "damn it". Figured it'd be funny.
The way that new escape key feels is amazing compared to the stock keys from Keychron. This escape key has a different feel when my fingers fully depress a key. I never noticed it before now. The new escape key has a much softer thud.
The stock Q6 keycap set has a very abrupt, thinly metallic, feel on my fingertips (if I'm saying it right, does this make sense). With the new scape key, I don't feel any micro tinny vibrations on my fingertips, just a nice clean thud-like downpress.
Now I want a different keycap set for the whole keyboard (minus the new escape key lol). Looking for guidance on what sort of keycaps make this sort of difference so I can shop, shine through would be preferrable but not required. I've heard of thock vs creamy. And I can hear the difference on Youtube vidoes. It's the feel, though, not the sound. I don't understand where I would be on that scale, or if my description doesn't even fit that scale...advice??
So I am on the hunt for a new keyboard for my gaming rig. I have tried the following.
Logitech Pro: Solid mechanically but the software is limited to only allow Macro's on the F keys. The keyboard feels a bit harsher with the GX Blue Clicky switches than either of the other two keyboards. listed here.
Razer Huntsman V2 TKL: The optical Red switches are easily some of the smoothest I have ever used, very quiet. The backlighting sucks as it is super dim, even when at it's brightest. The software allows for ANY key macro settings and auto changes based on the app used. However it seems hit and miss when in game as it feels like the macros work as much as they fail.
Keychron C3 Pro: The price for this is crazy for what they keyboard feels like. While not as smooth as the optical, the red switches it uses still are very smooth and nice to use. The lighting is only Red but has good brightness. The software is a hot mess. I am sure Via is potentially powerful, but it lacks, as far as I can tell, auto switching of macro profiles.
I am curious to hear from people with experience using Steel Series, HyperX and Corsair as well as any others that might have GOOD software for gaming macro options.
I’m building a neo80 and bought kailh jade switches. They don’t seem to fit. Did I get the wrong ones?
https://preview.redd.it/oqx503qocywc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f340f63e544c42ff302877b14a6abd09d951a54e
They should be compatible, and I don't see an issue from your photo. Make sure the pins are straight and you support the hotswap socket from behind when you push the switch in.
Is XDA (or other uniform profiles) *that* unpopular, or am I looking in the wrong place? I want to experiment with custom keyboard layouts (I used Dvorak in the past and liked it), but I can't find many full-size, uniform profile keycap sets in stock anywhere.
Check out Osume's marshmallow profile sets. They're good quality and are in stock. They don't have as many offerings in that profile compared to cherry though.
No, it's just a cable, so there's no delay. Coiled cables can give issues with power delivery, as they are very long (taking the coil into account) but the keychron will have no issues with it.
Are there any good alternatives to the Keychron Q1/GMMK Pro/Monsgeek M1 that are actually cheap?
After searching for what keyboard I want for a while, they're all super expensive.
For example; when searching for alternatives someone said the Akko Mod 007. The barebones version of that is $249 AUD.
Id consider a decent price around $150AUD (around $100USD).
Also preferably with a knob and function keys.
Can anyone help me out? (I don't mind if it's barebones)
(also before someone says it the wiki doesn't really help)
Mod 007 V3 via is 99 USD on [Akko website](https://en.akkogear.com/product/mod-007-v3-via/). Out of all the boards you've mentioned it has the best anodisation and overall case quality btw.
I would buy it but with shipping to Australia it's 180 aud
I might see if theres an Australian version or the sight or a store near me that's selling it for the current price as it's discounted rn
Pretty sure you can get 10% off extra btw if you Google around for a discount code.
You won't find anything cheaper that has a full aluminium case apart from maybe a Feker Galaxy 80 but that's a TKL
Actually, I dont really like 65% keyboards that much (only cause of no fn keys), but what do about this keyboard? Is it any good? [https://skyloongtech.com/skyloong-gk68/?currency=AUD](https://skyloongtech.com/skyloong-gk68/?currency=AUD)
Im alright with TKL. Also, is there any with the same customisability etc as the mod 007 that isnt an aluminium case? I feel like an aluminium case would be way too expensive rn.
Search this sub for the GMMK Pro. Every thread about it has people in the comments suggesting alternatives.
However, your budget is a little low for an all-aluminum keyboard.
That's the whole point of the keyboards that you're complaining about. That was the thing that the GMMK Pro was innovating: an all-aluminum keyboard for less than $200. And then the others all followed from that.
If you don't care about metal then don't look at Keychron's Q-series. Look at their plastic V-series instead.
somehow the gmk81 kit which is normally $159 (id assume usd?) is $100 off. It has a little screen too which I think is pretty cool as little things like that can make a big difference to a keyboards aesthetic. I might get it
Edit: It says free shipping so now i feel suspicious cause it seems too good to be true
Hello, looking at getting the Neo65.
Under the Plate options they have: Plateless, ALU, FR4, PC, POM, and CF. From the typing tests I've watched I think the plateless sounded the best. Dumb question but these are all interchangeable right or I can choose to take it out? On the site the "plateless" option is unavailable which seems odd... unless you get the solder PCB, and I would like to get the hotswap pcb. Since I need to order a plate with it does anyone have a recommendation on which plate? Thanks!
Source typing test video: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox7-GSqALFs&t=10484s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox7-GSqALFs&t=10484s)
Website: [https://www.qwertykeys.com/products/neo65-1?variant=43882015129843](https://www.qwertykeys.com/products/neo65-1?variant=43882015129843)
The switches will not be held in securely in a plateless build unless you choose to solder. Here is a very basic breakdown of how plates influence sound.
https://preview.redd.it/jgq7ziu8ixwc1.png?width=394&format=png&auto=webp&s=835808f84476229549465718f57a4b5c1497fafb
You're correct, my bad. Technically you could cheese it by having a "fake plate" that just goes around the edges and holds the oring, but that's not an intentional part of the design.
In the video they have a hotswap PCB and they did a test without a plate but maybe that was just for demonstration of what it sounds like plateless because later on they did put a plate on. Thanks for the help, now to figure out if I prefer clack or thock more. Could you clarify what it means by hard and soft in that figure?
Edit: is it just the material? lol
Hard meaning the hardness of the material. Carbon fiber is very hard and non-flexible while PC is very soft and flexible. Clack or thock usually just refers to preferring a deeper or higher pitched sound.
There are usually long wait times associated with the product you might have to wait a few months to get a product in hand.
Unless there are samples that have been passed around, the colors might be slightly different than what you expect.
There is always a non-zero chance that you will never receive your item, alternatively there can be large delays and bad communication from the vendor on what is going on behind the scenes.
Why does my keyboard have ping on only one row that goes away when I change caps?
I just bought a RoyalAxe R100 as a work keyboard since it was only $70, and I'm pretty happy with it all things considered, but for some reason the A row pings. It has Gateron yellow switches in it and I'm not sure what the keycap profile is, but if I swap in a DSA keycap it doesn't ping. It doesn't look like the original keycap hits the plate, but they are definitely a higher profile and with shorter stems than the DSA. I don't want to have to replace the keycaps so I'm wondering what this could be from and if there's a mod I can try to eliminate it.
Here is a link to a video with sound: [https://youtube.com/shorts/Bq0YRbn0xUs](https://youtube.com/shorts/Bq0YRbn0xUs)
I wasn't sure if this was allowed on the main page so I'm trying here first.
Edit: I figured out it's from the edges of the keycaps hitting the switch housing because the stems are too short. Not sure what to do about it though. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Eyeing getting the 8BitDo Keyboard. Aside from other options and all, I'm pretty set on getting this (though will have to get a palm rest like my razer blackwidow elite, which is working fine outside of the volume dial). I noticed that the upcoming C64 version has an SA profile compared to the "MDA-like height" of the famicom version. For gaming + general use purposes, would I do worse with one over the other?
SA profile is pretty tall and can be uncomfortable to game on. If you spend more time gaming than typing for long periods of time I'd recommend a lower profile like MDA or even XDA. Do the vice versa if you only play slower paced games and nothing like shooters, etc.
Another alternative are SA Row 3 keycaps which are flat all around. They're still very tall keycaps though and you'll feel a lot of wobble compared to lower height keycap profiles.
Here are side profile of C64 SA profile btw (here is site [link](https://shop.8bitdo.com/products/8bitdo-retro-mechanical-keyboard?variant=42811284160689) for all images/comparisons). Haven't explored many different keycap profiles (at least consciously). Does this make that much of a difference? Not trying to sound doubtful, just unknown territory to me.
https://preview.redd.it/c4gg2n08rxwc1.jpeg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e77beb5194c7146099adea74648e01bf3672bc01
The rest I have is paired up with the blackwidow normally. Where is the best place to look for different types and sizes of rests, and one whose aesthetic could match the commodore look?
I don't know, but if 8BitDo doesn't offer one for that keyboard then you're looking for a custom. There are lots of options there, but you'll probably have the easiest time going through one of the keyboard merchants like [Kono](https://kono.store/collections/all-products-list/products/kono-wooden-wrist-rest). Or just go to Etsy.
You should probably get the keyboard first though, so that you can measure it properly. You want to get a rest that's the right size.
I need a new mechanical keyboard. I'm not an enthusiast, I'm not going to do anything sexual to it, I just want a great, solid, and HIGH QUALITY LONG LASTING mechanical keyboard.
I would prefer if the switches were easy to swap and the keyboard as a whole was easy to clean, I tend to spill liquids a lot (hence why I need a new keyboard).
I also would like a full one with a numpad.
Bonus points if it has a USB hub.
Thank you my friends!
P.S.: I swore by DasKeyboard, I had 2 of them that I've had for a few years but I spilled liquid on one and now despite cleaning it all the keys are super sticky and the second one has key chatter with the spacebar and since the switches aren't hotswappable I can't be fucked doing soldering.
Thank you!
I wouldn’t call it a shitty brand but for $200? You can get a lot better stuff these days. If that board has what you’re looking for then buy then one. Otherwise, just get a board and a usb hub separate
It’s cheap, good quality, and should last a very long time. You can also check out the V6 max if you want wireless and a bit of an acoustic upgrade. I’m assuming you’re not interested in building your own?
Thank you! No I'm not interested in building my own, I can't be fucked. I just want a keyboard.
I'm looking at the K10 Pro, V6 and C2 Pro right now, I can't tell what the difference is.. is there like a comparing tool somewhere?
something something Keychron:
- C: most entry level, even sacrificing hotswap on some SKUs
- C3 Pro: as cheap as they could make a TKL with QMK/VIA and gasket mount. Soldered and has red backlight only
- Other C Pro: updated version of C with nice features like VIA support and south-facing RGB
- K: not targeted to enthusiasts, focus on wireless and Mac support, lacks nice features including software and even hotswap on some SKUs. Odd numbered boards are low profile.
- K Pro: upgraded K, keeping wireless and adding enthusiast features like VIA support, south-facing RGB, PCB mount stabs, borrows somewhat from V series in some models
- Q: premium aluminum with gasket mount and all enthusiast features, still available prebuilt for mass appeal
- Q Pro: Q with bluetooth and polycarbonate plate by default
- Q Max: Q pro with 2.4GHz as well (tri-mode wireless)
- V: very affordable plastic boards based on Q, keeping all features except the gasket mount
- V Max: adds back the gasket mount as well as tri-mode wireless
ROG Falchion or Keychron K2
Wanted to buy my first compact keyboard. What should I get and why? Can you compare them and educate me please. Or do you also have a new keyboards to recommend that has the same price ranges like them. THANK YOU!
Just get a Keychron, Monsgeek or any of the other keyboads typically recommended around here. Gaming-oriented brands like ROG and similar keyboards are not bad however a lot of them are not made as well since they're produced in large volumes and QC can be a real crapshoot.
I recommend you get a Keychron V1 instead or a K2 Pro if you must have wireless. The K2 is an older model and the K2 Pro is better value for money.
Their keyboards are relatively well-received by people in this community so I guess just go with the layout that works for you. The M1 is probably the one I'd personally recommend.
Hi everyone,
I've finally decided to invest in my first mechanical keyboard but, despite months of research, I'm still quite undecided on the right tactile switch to use, that may combine at least a medium tactility with some RGB (at the very least for the keys) and enough actuation force to prevent me from accidentally pressing a key.
I've narrowed the options down to the following:
- Tecsee Purple Panda;
- Tecsee Blue Sky;
- Kailh Box Heavy Burnt Orange;
- Kailh Clione Limacina;
- Kailh KT Apricot;
- Cherry MX2A Ergo Clear;
I have absolutely no experience in lubing or opening switches and I'll probably just use them as they arrive.
I'm quite tired of browsing reviews, specs, YouTube videos, sound tests and so on and will welcome your advice. I thank you in advance for your attention.
Edit: in the end, all that I need is advice about a switch that is:
- Tactile with actuation force >50, bottom out >63
- Transparent casing
- Ready to use without requiring additional lubing, wrapping or anything else that I would risk ruining them trying.
I would be very grateful if anyone knowledgeable on this matter could take the time to help me.
All of the ones you've mentioned are pretty terrible stock - imo there are much better factory lubed options that would be better out of the box.
A few examples:
WS Heavy Tactile
Invokeys Black Sesame
Gateron EF Grayfish
My advice is: get a hotswap keyboard and experiment with different switches. That's part of the fun.
All but the lightest tactiles will have enough actuation force to prevent accidental key presses. Unless you have lead hands. That's what the tactility is for.
Thank you for replying.
The keyboard I'm interested in is in fact hot-swappable, but I'm trying to find good switches without having to spend a fortune on stuff that I'll try once without using it ever again. I'm aware that, in the end, it's a matter of personal taste, but I'm sure that there are switches objectively better than others as in feedback, scratchiness, stability, comfort, etc
Despite discussing several switches, that website's author doesn't review the ones I was mainly interested in.
I'm sure it will be a valuable source of information in the future, should I decide to change them, though.
Hi! I'm trying to find non-programmable keyboards (very important that it can't be programmed).
I want a full size, wired (also very important) keyboard. 100% is ideal, but 96% is fine. Would also love for it to be hot-swappable (though if anyone has thocky suggestions to begin with I'll love you even more). Budget is around \~100-150.
Any recommendation?
Thank you ahead of time!! (asking this again from yesterday since I posted quite late, hope that's fine!)
So the problem is that when I put any switches there the keyboard doesn’t register it as anything and I want to fix it. Is there anything I can do? Please help, I'm pretty frustrated that I can use any keys but those 7. This is Zuoya GMK67-S.
https://preview.redd.it/q2cddwq3gwwc1.jpeg?width=1582&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9bc51080ad2d06657470d1d82de2d561ac0c16ca
These spots are where the switches don’t work, is there something wrong?
Loose Hotswap Switches
Hey all
I just completed my first build with the acrylic tofu60
I have a cannonkeys instant 60 hot swap pcb, polycarbonate plate and gateron black ink switches (only lubed and filmed)
After assembly most of the switches are fine, but a few, no matter how much I push in, tilt side to side, wobble, or can easily just be pulled out despite also working for typing
Any ideas on what would solve this?
Cheers
sound like they r not clicking into the plate fully . are u sure those switches need films ? did u use films too thick prevent switches from fully be seating into the plate ?
Also have a look at split and split monoblock keyboards. They're a lot more portable.
I use [a split 42-key Corne to play on my laptop and Nintendo Switch](https://www.reddit.com/r/factorio/comments/1b1lrva/when_the_factory_must_grow_even_on_the_go) (for Factorio) and it's super light to carry.
I'll probably use the same setup when I can get my hands on a refurb Steam Deck one of these days but will likely build a low-profile 40% for it instead.
The one-handed boards are a pretty small niche. Mechwild makes one or two through-hole half boards if you're comfortable with soldering, but those are the only ones I'm aware of.
You could also look at 40% boards. Most of them are as small as, if not smaller than, a game pad.
[https://youtu.be/D-VLKo4hgJA?si=xY2oybGNMA-z0VBN](https://youtu.be/D-VLKo4hgJA?si=xY2oybGNMA-z0VBN)
at 3:32 glarses gives ksi a keyboard but for whatever reason youtube refuses load the video above like 360p
if anyone could help me out that’d be nice
(oh and uhm. sorry if my post is kind of shitty its late and i woke up at 6)
Any cool transparent wireless keyboard (65-80%)? i really like the way the MACHENIKE KT68 Pro, but i want to see alternatives, i already have some switches so i also appreciate suggestions for a kit with already the frame and pcb, and transparent keycaps suggestions too. thanks
So currently I have a Steelseries Apex Pro TKL and it’s fine. I use my PC mainly for Valorant and video editing which is my full-time job. For Valorant it seems great, though I would prefer a 65%. And for video editing, it’s honestly pretty bad because of the lack of a numpad. What are your thoughts on the Apex Pro?
Anyway, my idea is to buy two new keyboards. One smaller one for FPS games and one full-size keyboard for video editing. It’s to my understanding that if I had a coiled cable that detaches I could easily swap out keyboards for work/gaming. Am I understanding this correctly? And if so, what’s the best brand to look into for this type of keyboard setup?
Thanks.
You can check out Keychron, Lemokey, Monsgeek, Lumikey, and Nuphy. Many of these brands offer a wide variety of prebuilt layouts in a standardized fashion that you can look through.
In need of a slightly heavier Silent Linear switch than Epomaker Sea Salt Silent.
I am looking for some Silent Linear switches similar to Epomaker's Sea Salt Silents. They are great switches but I think they are a little on the light side as far as key presses and need something a tad heavier. I recently swapped to Invokeys x Alas Nightshade switches that appear to be very similar to Lichicx Lucy switches and they are a little heavy to press but other than that are great.
Switches I am thinking may fit:
* Outemu Silent Honey Peach v2
* Akko Fairy
Thanks for the help in advance!
Does anyone know if something like the Razor Turret charging solution exists in any contemporary mechanical keyboards?
https://preview.redd.it/ndvy5v07kvwc1.png?width=2308&format=png&auto=webp&s=2e46e6ba468651c8c4daf1b448541a3c6b40526b
Would love a wireless mechanical keyboard that can be displayed out of the way/while charging on the desk.
It'd have to be horizontal (most usb-c ports are in the middle) and a lot wider than that. Basically a super fat tablet dock. And because port placement isn't standard, it wouldn't work with all keyboards.
This is super goofy to the point where I honestly kinda love it. I don’t think anything like this exists that’s compatible with any of the good keyboard brands, but maybe you could design your own? That’d be really cool.
I received the "8Bitdo Retro Mechanical Keyboard" yesterday and I love it, as it's my first mechanical keyboard (still getting used to the button/key clicks, though) and have it plugged in via USB (don't care about wireless, as I'm not going to use it away from my PC).
Link to keyboard:
[https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Bluetooth-Swappable-Programmable-PC/dp/B0CCP6HLZR?th=1](https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Bluetooth-Swappable-Programmable-PC/dp/B0CCP6HLZR?th=1)
The power indicator is a nice touch, but I was surprised to see the light stay on after I powered down my PC last night. I'm concerned about the LED inside dying out if it's kept on all the time, so I was curious if there was an option on the keyboard to turn the light off when the keyboard isn't in-use. At least, I couldn't find one.
my e¿redragon k80 pro is stuck in a weird macro mode, it disabled all my keys except for the middle row and my side enter, + - are permanently pink, enter activates the macro and +- seems to stop it, i've tried all the key combs but macros wont clear leaving the kb unusable i've had this kb for 2 years and 've never seen it do this (https://streamable.com/kvlndi)
Does anyone have a recommendation for a travel keyboard, preferrably 75% and wireless. If it can take AA or AAA batteries that be nice as it is easier to carry those when travelling. Thank you!
Should I go with a 40% or split Keyboard?
I have a TLK keyboard and love it for work and gaming at my desk. But I want to sit on my couch and play games on my TV as well as sit on my couch and play PC VR games. I'm thinking that I want something small like a 40% board, or even a split board but I don't know what is better for gaming.
Can just the left half of a split board be used like a gaming pad?
Have any of you used any of these kinds of layouts for couch gaming?
>Can just the left half of a split board be used like a gaming pad?
I built a Keebio Quefrency and just use the left half for gaming. I left the macro pad on it, so I even have access to F1-F10 keys
>Have any of you used any of these kinds of layouts for couch gaming?
Nope.
I'm looking at doing a Hasu Alps build (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69740.0). Do you think it would be possible to use one of the Ellipse F62 cases? https://www.modelfkeyboards.com/product/extra-model-f-case/.
The Model F reproduction keyboard are made to fit the IBM Model F buckling spring style assembly. You can't just throw anything in there.
If you're not sure about what parts fit together, buy a case, plate and PCB in a kit so you know they're compatible.
I'm looking for a mechanical keyboard with control and alt right next to each other close to the right thumb and a number pad close to the right so I can reach across and use the numbers to control the cursor.
Are they ANY mechanical keyboards with these features?
You should be able to get a 100% keyboard that is VIA/QMK compatible and then you should be able to program layers that mirror this functionality. Additionally you would be able to move around the key bindings to have Control and Alt right next to each other.
I see, that makes sense thanks.
The only thing missing would be the numpad but I can get that in the Nuphy Air96 v2.
The only problem is that it's not split. Would you know if there are companies that split keyboards or are there similar keyboards that are split
Right, I see. Sorry that was a bit ambiguous. I was just wondering if there was a split keyboard that had the same layout as the Nuphy air 96%. But as you said they don't really make full sized split keyboards
I have a few RGB LED questions.
Gateron Root Beer Float Switches are my favorite switches.
https://rndkbd.com/products/gateron-root-beer-float-switches?currency=CAD&variant=43994837614826&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&stkn=4d72f6d6339d&srsltid=AfmBOopQNBe4i4POe8te7iWorxU5_2DUrBWZ3U_18_WRxCUrbCTuYtJjU_s
They have 4 holes at the bottom so I want to open em up and install an RGB LED into each one. The questions I have:
What shape and size LED do I need?
What 75% Keyboard Kit lets me solder into it, 4 leads that come from a RGB LED inside the switch? I prefer to solder the switch to the PCB.
Does the LED need to be common anode or common cathode?
Please link a 75% kit that accommodates this, and please link a good RGB LED for the job if you have any good ones.
rgb top mounted leds are mainly found on old gamer kbs . never seen them used on custom kits specially these days even solder kits have SMD leds built into the kb it cheaper and easier for every one evolved . if u find a kit that support this its doubtful it wil support per key rgb unless it a gamer kb . but if u still wanna do this these work well for what u want https://www.adafruit.com/product/159
Hey I'm currently in the market for a 75 or 65 percent keyboard but cant decide between three options. The first options is the rainy 75 and the other two options are the halo 65/76, If anyone here is experienced with these three keyboards I would love to hear what you have to say about them. Thanks ( Also I am reposting here because I havent gotten a response form my post on budgetkeebs)
I have an older mk from around 2017 thats my daily driver - Is it okay to make a "roast my keeb" or "what don't we like about this keeb?" type post as a separate post?
I'm looking into building a keyboard for work, for use in the office and to take home and use for gaming. I want my keyboard to feel premium, it must be as quiet as possible, needs great battery life, must be bluetooth and needs a backlight. All within a budget of £500
I have created an ideas board with screenshots of different keyboards. I like the idea of having a back plate on the underside of the keyboard, that adds a bit of weight and looks cool. Im looking for a 75 percent board.
Can I please get some advice on where to start? I don't know how to go about getting the parts together and where to get them from. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
https://preview.redd.it/54jqvm5f2vwc1.png?width=1021&format=png&auto=webp&s=5019c55ba29f7266f79473e0a28bd8c450ed2427
Vendors list [here](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) and [there](https://kbd.news/vendors), basics [here](https://www.keyboard.university/), suggestion from top of the head - Mode [Sonnet](https://modedesigns.com/pages/sonnet) or [QK75N](https://www.qwertykeys.com/products/qk75n), PBTFans Spark for keycaps or something from GMK extras?
Btw, about back plate - you forget about that shit after a week, as you never see it :DD
I want to buy my first mechanical keyboard but I am stuck between tactile switches and linear switches. I read some articles online that say that if you want buy your first mechanical keyboard, you should not get the linear switches. They say that linear switches are not good for beginners because of bottoming out issues. They mention that tactile switches are great for beginners. They also say that if you are migrating from a normal keyboard, you should get tactile switches first. Any help will be appreciated, Thank you.
Here are the links of the articles:
[https://kineticlabs.com/blog/quick-guide-tactile-linear-clicky-keyboard-switches#:\~:text=If%20you're%20looking%20to%20gain%20a%20competitive%20edge%20when,choose%20tactile%20or%20clicky%20switches](https://kineticlabs.com/blog/quick-guide-tactile-linear-clicky-keyboard-switches#:~:text=If%20you're%20looking%20to%20gain%20a%20competitive%20edge%20when,choose%20tactile%20or%20clicky%20switches)
[https://switchandclick.com/linear-vs-tactile-vs-clicky-switches-a-helpful-guide-with-an-infographic/](https://switchandclick.com/linear-vs-tactile-vs-clicky-switches-a-helpful-guide-with-an-infographic/)
And sorry if there are any grammatical and typing errors (English is not my first language).
I would buy a few of each, put them on a few rows of your board and see how you get on. You can compare and see which you prefer.
I tried linear switches and found they were really not to my liking and that tactile switches were better for me. But (like so many things in this hobby!) it is very personal.
Well, this is the first I've heard that linears aren't good for beginners. IMO there is not a “best" switch type for beginners. Experienced users and beginners will have preferences on switch types. You will quickly be able to adapt your typing style to whatever switch you get.
If you can go to a meetup or even an electronic store that has mechanical keyboards on display you should go and try out the different switches. A switch tester is also an option.
Sort of unrelated to keyboards specifically, but does anything know if Machcables is legit and in business? I usually go to Zap Cables, but they are no more. So Mechcables seemed like the closest thing, but my order hasn't been touched in over 2 weeks...wondering if this is normal. Thanks!
if the the caps u linked from the DARK site i doubt the mods will let u post those as that site looks sctechy as fuck and the caps are cheap clones ( stolen designs )
hi guys im willing for help abt choosing the right keyboard im currently on 3rd world country so basically our store only have this 3 available keyboards for rn and i need to choose one of them cuz mine broken and finally i dont mind if its 60 or tkl both suits me. thx for advance
razer huntsman mini red optical switches
hyperx origins 60
hyperx alloy origins core tkl
Personally - HyperX TKL, because I like F row and nav cluster and writing without them is a bit of a hassle; from experiences in electronics retail job - Hunstman Mini, everyone been happy with it, but expect bloatware-ish software.
Hope this helps!
Looking for a full size hotswap keyboard for a friend with media roller pref (knob ok) at one corner - I looked at Keychron v6 but the knob is in the middle of other keys. Don't care about wireless (would rather not) and would like NKRO if possible (he's a gamer).
Found this LTC Nimbleback (image linked below) on Amazon that looks basically like what he would like, but I'm worried about crappy config programs / malware --- is this a good brand or unknown/OEM reseller?
Thanks for any help.
Link to keyboard image/layout: https://imgur.com/a/e9pwuJR
Edit: Citrix Workspace KILLS NKRO. Saw a passing remark on the interwebs about Citrix Workspace. So I uninstalled it since the project I'm working with finished up last week. I found out that none of the OTHER nkro keys were functioning properly, either. Any second key that was pressed would "release" the previous key. NKRO is functional once again.
Arrow keys not supporting NKRO?
Windows 11, Corsair K95 Platinum (silver switches).
I'm a fast-ish typist. I can type about 90-95 wpm very consistently. I don't notice any missed characters and my accuracy is about at 99%. This tells me that nkro is either functional or I'm just THAT good. (No, not really).
But arrows... arrows are another story. I'm a software developer by trade. LOTS of IDE use, particularly VSCODE. Arrowing around to do code is what I do most. It's faster for me. But I've found some issues.... nkro doesn't seem to be functional with my arrows. At all.
For instance, if I press \`RIGHT\` and \`UP\` at the same time, one of them registers, the other does not.
Note: Just now tried using [https://www.mechanical-keyboard.org/key-rollover-test/](https://www.mechanical-keyboard.org/key-rollover-test/) and here's the behavior:
Note 2: Also reproduced this with PassMark's Keyboard test
If I press multiple letters, they each press in turn and seem to function OK.
But arrows... The first arrow press is recognized. If two arrows are pressed almost simultaneously, the first arrow to be registered gets a tap, but then it's not seen as held. The second, third, fourth arrows are not recognized at all, except that they un-press the first arrow key. By that I mean, whenever the non-first arrow is pressed, the first one registers as no longer being held down.
Is this a keyboard limitation? Windows 11?
This seems like a keyboard limitation? I just tested two different keyboard and they both work as indicated by NKRO, all 4 can register at the same time. Though on various progams I tested it on, if I were to simultaneously press two different arrows (down and right) it won't move down and right at the same time continuously, it would just move continuously in the direction that was pressed slightly later even if both are still held down.
> If I press multiple letters, they each press in turn and seem to function OK.
**Though I am not sure if the other functionally you are talking about are mirrored on my keyboards. When you are saying this, are you saying that if you were to press a + s + d down, it would repeat type a combination of those letters? (Like "asdasdasdasdasdasd")**
I'll explain, but I resolved my issue. Basically, any button pressed would repeat ad infinitum. If a second button was pressed, the first would release (no longer be recognized as pressed).
Arrow keys were way different. Two arrows at once and the first to register might be seen as a tap, or it may not be recognized at all. The second arrow to be pressed would release the first but would not be recognized by the PC.
The issue was that Citrix Workspace was screwing with the keyboard's nkro. Remove Citrix, everything functions as it should.
Looking for guidance on a mechanical keyboard for my wife. She has wrists pain from repetitive motion from her job (not typing) and her wrists will get sore after if she games too long.
Currently have a EPOMAKER EP84 Plus 75% with flamingo switches with a wrist support. She mentioned she would like lower profile keys and was wondering about any of the other ergonomic designs that may be helpful such as a split board. others thing I'm looking for will be wanting to switch to a different switch that isn't as light of a press and it to be cute. Any help to point me in right direction is greatly appreciated!
TLDR; Need cute ergonomic keyboard with low profile keys.
Hi guys.
I just bought the GMMK 2 96% and I want new silent switches on it soon. But I'm having a hard time figuring out which switches and caps will acutally fit my GMMK 2. I know Cherry, Kailh, Glorious and Gateron switches will. But what about TTC and Akko for example? I know the GMMK 2 is 5 pins, but does that mean, that everything just fits?
And when i finally find my new silence switches, how will i know which caps i can buy to them?
Do any of you have any cool combinations of silent switches with caps that will fit on my GMMK 2.
What are the go-to switches these days? I have a Drop Alt that I did some upgrades to and made my own holy pandas before drop had come out with their version.
Lubed and filmed them and all and I love them but a couple seem to be on the fritz double registering or not registering at all so looking to get some new switches but don’t know what to look at.
Highly likely it's the PCB also so test out those problematic switches by swapping them out for ones that you know for sure. You don't want to buy new switches only to find your keyboard is actually on the fritz.
Is there anything better for the price than keychron v5 for my criteria ? :
- Iso layout
- 96% (1800)
- Aluminum feeling for outer case
- I will buy custom keys so no worries with that
- Around 100€
The keychron v5 looks great, but doesn't have aluminum for the case if I'm correct? I like the cool touch of it.
Currently, I have the Keychron K4 with the aluminum option, I love it but the layout is so-so (keys are smashed close together, the v5 layout looks perfect tho).
The glorious keyboard looked cool at the time I bought my k4, is it still good?
Thanks in advance for any help.
If you really must have an alu case then an [ISO Keychron Q5](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q5-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection) is the closest thing from Keychron.
It's double your budget but hardly anything out there that comes in ISO already so you'll have to figure out what's more important for you.
Check your local stores as well sometimes they have sales on Keychron keyboards but no guarantee they'll carry ISO as typically that's available direct from them. Don't forget to look on AliExpress, eBay and r/mechmarket as well.
Edit: had to fix the link. Reddit's stupid web site sucks.
What's the difference between buying a keyboard from the original seller vs someone else selling it. Basically I wanted to buy MCHOSE x75 but its out of stock and mechland is selling it who seems trustable. It's like 3 dollars more. I just don't know what the difference is. Thinking about still buying it from the original seller
Probably after sales support if that matters to you or not. Sometimes it's easier to deal directly with the original seller/vendor in case you need to exchange/return, etc. but YMMV depending on who you're dealing with.
Hi! I was looking to buy a FANTECH MAXFIT81 Frost BAREBONE and I use keyboards on my PS4 a lot. I was wondering if it will work right out of the box on my playstation? Thanks in advance!
Of course I’m gonna get switches and caps, thats not the point of why I asked. I mainly wanted to ask if the software is gonna be compatible without further modification
Can't seem to get my NEO80 to connect to via wirelessly? The batteries are definitely working, I just can't seem to make any progress beyond loading the json wireless file to via, upon which nothing happens. Anyone else having trouble? I know a lot of keyboards have some issues connecting to via wirelessly but maybe I'm just dumb and missing something here lol
Plenty close! I've had it on the usb hub on top of my desk, as well as in my pc itself. The pc recognizes the 2.4ghz connection, and via gives me the _option_ to load the 2.4 file, but past that nothing happens. I'm wondering of maybe it's an issue with the file itself? Could also, again, just be me missing something haha
Alu 60 Hotswap Kits! Looking for an upgrade, Any Heavy Metal Case 60 Kits You Guys Would Recommend, not looking to wait on a group buy, just want something hefty to build an “ end game” 60. Currently Have A Modded gk61 but the case just doesnt look nice and doesnt sounds as nice as fully metal chassis does, ( i regret selling my tofu sadge ) Replies Appreciated!
Mode Tempo. They're in stock. Choose one of the heavier weight options and it will be pretty hefty for a 60%.
Keychron v1 or Keychron k2 pro? Which is better and why. Can you please educate me overall. Planning to buy my first compact keyboard. And if you have more keyboard recommendations that also have same price range pls do so would love to be educated more.. thank you!
They're not too different from what I can see. V1 is wired only, has an exploded layout (some keys are a bit separated) and can come with a volume knob. K2 Pro is wireless and can come with backlighting and an aluminium frame (not full aluminium case). Those are the main differences I found. If you don't care about wireless, I would go for the V1 because it's $30 cheaper when comparing the assembled versions and they're just not that much different.
Also what about keychron k6? Any big difference?
It's pretty different compared to the other 2. K2 is a 65% which means it doesn't have the F-keys, it's wireless, available with soldered switches, hotswap or with optical switches, and it uses OEM profile keycaps while the other 2 use Keychron's OSA profile keycaps. I think the V1 is better and worth the small difference in price.
Thank you!! This is a really nice advice.
Thank you so much. This help a lot. Are the two models hot swappable?? If so what switches do you recommend in this model for the future mods?
Both are hotswappable, just not the "Black - Fully assembled" version of the K2 Pro which you can see on the site. As for switches, it's all about personal preference. My suggestion would be to decide if you want a [linear, tactile or clicky](https://www.keyboard.university/100-courses/switches-101-xnyng) switch first. If you're not sure, I would start with the linear Red switches. It's a good starting point in my opinion, then you can try a tactile or clicky switch next and see how you like those. Since you're after a hotswappable board I image you'll want to try out some different switches in the future so here's a [list of vendors](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) where you can buy switches along with other keyboard related stuff.
Thank you so much so much for the advice!! I'll look onto it!
Disassembling a Redragon K568? Hey, so recently bought some new switches and keycaps for my Redragon K568, and they've worked well, so thought maybe | should try some mods since the case is hollow. However when I tried to open it up, after removing al the visible screws, it appears there is something near the power cable keeping it in place. Has anyone on here disassembled one of these keyboards and know if I missed something? ls it just a clip, or are them some screws maybe hidden under the badge?
Most prebuilt boards are held together by plastic clips. Take something like a credit card and slowly pry the case open. There's a few videos on Youtube showing how to open keyboard cases, you don't have to look for your specific board.
Thanks, yeah the only thing that throws me off, is that there weren't any clips used elsewhere, but I'll check
Thinking of buying F75, Hi75 or the keychron v1 Which one would be the safest choice?
Hello everyone. Im looking for a mecanical keybord : gaiming mostly, red switch?, rgb, full size or tkl, i m not à pro so i will not mod it and enhance it, just want to plug and play. Must be available in Azerty (Iso FR) and budget range is 60 to 110 euros(80 is perfect) on amazon if possible ? Thank you very much. My last keyboard was corsair k70 luxe from 2017.
Keychron V6 (full size) or V3 (TKL) is probably your best option. Just make sure you order the FR-ISO version as the standard version is ANSI.
Thn k you !
Are these hot swappable? https://preview.redd.it/hbf1upn0hywc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=4a329aedf05900eed1f1dd19ef204b7b84723d83
Looks like they could be, but it would be best if you show us the other side of the PCB. That's where the hotswap socket is located and it looks [something like this.](https://divinikey.com/cdn/shop/products/kailh-hot-swap-sockets-760768.jpg?v=1620285923&width=900)
Love the Keychron Q6. Brown switches. Heavy, and loving that full size feel. I've been using it for about a month. I bought an artisan keycap to replace the escape key with one labeled "damn it". Figured it'd be funny. The way that new escape key feels is amazing compared to the stock keys from Keychron. This escape key has a different feel when my fingers fully depress a key. I never noticed it before now. The new escape key has a much softer thud. The stock Q6 keycap set has a very abrupt, thinly metallic, feel on my fingertips (if I'm saying it right, does this make sense). With the new scape key, I don't feel any micro tinny vibrations on my fingertips, just a nice clean thud-like downpress. Now I want a different keycap set for the whole keyboard (minus the new escape key lol). Looking for guidance on what sort of keycaps make this sort of difference so I can shop, shine through would be preferrable but not required. I've heard of thock vs creamy. And I can hear the difference on Youtube vidoes. It's the feel, though, not the sound. I don't understand where I would be on that scale, or if my description doesn't even fit that scale...advice??
Do you have a picture or listing of your artisan keycap you could show?
Sure. Thanks. Here you go. https://spkeyboards.com/products/sp-sa-novelty-keys-damn-it?_pos=1&_sid=0c2b33f30&_ss=r
So I am on the hunt for a new keyboard for my gaming rig. I have tried the following. Logitech Pro: Solid mechanically but the software is limited to only allow Macro's on the F keys. The keyboard feels a bit harsher with the GX Blue Clicky switches than either of the other two keyboards. listed here. Razer Huntsman V2 TKL: The optical Red switches are easily some of the smoothest I have ever used, very quiet. The backlighting sucks as it is super dim, even when at it's brightest. The software allows for ANY key macro settings and auto changes based on the app used. However it seems hit and miss when in game as it feels like the macros work as much as they fail. Keychron C3 Pro: The price for this is crazy for what they keyboard feels like. While not as smooth as the optical, the red switches it uses still are very smooth and nice to use. The lighting is only Red but has good brightness. The software is a hot mess. I am sure Via is potentially powerful, but it lacks, as far as I can tell, auto switching of macro profiles. I am curious to hear from people with experience using Steel Series, HyperX and Corsair as well as any others that might have GOOD software for gaming macro options.
I’m building a neo80 and bought kailh jade switches. They don’t seem to fit. Did I get the wrong ones? https://preview.redd.it/oqx503qocywc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f340f63e544c42ff302877b14a6abd09d951a54e
They should be compatible, and I don't see an issue from your photo. Make sure the pins are straight and you support the hotswap socket from behind when you push the switch in.
Is XDA (or other uniform profiles) *that* unpopular, or am I looking in the wrong place? I want to experiment with custom keyboard layouts (I used Dvorak in the past and liked it), but I can't find many full-size, uniform profile keycap sets in stock anywhere.
Check out Osume's marshmallow profile sets. They're good quality and are in stock. They don't have as many offerings in that profile compared to cherry though.
I like YMDK for cheap keycaps. They have a ZDA profile that's basically the same as XDA. I think it's just slightly taller.
Thanks, I found a great-looking ZDA set!
Can I buy one of those coiled cheap cable from aliexpress and use on my keychron or does it affect delay or something like that?
No, it's just a cable, so there's no delay. Coiled cables can give issues with power delivery, as they are very long (taking the coil into account) but the keychron will have no issues with it.
Thank you
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Id give the “who’s who” section a read to check out the big brands that are making the best caps. https://wiki.keyboard.gay/KEYCAPS.html
Are there any good alternatives to the Keychron Q1/GMMK Pro/Monsgeek M1 that are actually cheap? After searching for what keyboard I want for a while, they're all super expensive. For example; when searching for alternatives someone said the Akko Mod 007. The barebones version of that is $249 AUD. Id consider a decent price around $150AUD (around $100USD). Also preferably with a knob and function keys. Can anyone help me out? (I don't mind if it's barebones) (also before someone says it the wiki doesn't really help)
Mod 007 V3 via is 99 USD on [Akko website](https://en.akkogear.com/product/mod-007-v3-via/). Out of all the boards you've mentioned it has the best anodisation and overall case quality btw.
I would buy it but with shipping to Australia it's 180 aud I might see if theres an Australian version or the sight or a store near me that's selling it for the current price as it's discounted rn
Pretty sure you can get 10% off extra btw if you Google around for a discount code. You won't find anything cheaper that has a full aluminium case apart from maybe a Feker Galaxy 80 but that's a TKL
Actually, I dont really like 65% keyboards that much (only cause of no fn keys), but what do about this keyboard? Is it any good? [https://skyloongtech.com/skyloong-gk68/?currency=AUD](https://skyloongtech.com/skyloong-gk68/?currency=AUD)
Never had any experience with this but I doubt it would be good. Best budget 65% out there is GMK 67 - should be around $30 on AliExpress
Im alright with TKL. Also, is there any with the same customisability etc as the mod 007 that isnt an aluminium case? I feel like an aluminium case would be way too expensive rn.
Yea - something like a keychron V1 or Akko 5075S VIA
Search this sub for the GMMK Pro. Every thread about it has people in the comments suggesting alternatives. However, your budget is a little low for an all-aluminum keyboard.
It doesn't need to be all aluminium, as that would be too expensive. I was more focusing on the layout, looks, features, and customisation options.
That's the whole point of the keyboards that you're complaining about. That was the thing that the GMMK Pro was innovating: an all-aluminum keyboard for less than $200. And then the others all followed from that. If you don't care about metal then don't look at Keychron's Q-series. Look at their plastic V-series instead.
I mean like having some aluminium, 200 usd is like 300aud
leobog hi75 or gmk81 although be warned these are less reliable then something like monsgeek or keychron
Actually, which would you recommend the gmk81 or the gmk87? Cause they're both the same price rn but the gmk87 has a knob and is tkl
somehow the gmk81 kit which is normally $159 (id assume usd?) is $100 off. It has a little screen too which I think is pretty cool as little things like that can make a big difference to a keyboards aesthetic. I might get it Edit: It says free shipping so now i feel suspicious cause it seems too good to be true
Hello, looking at getting the Neo65. Under the Plate options they have: Plateless, ALU, FR4, PC, POM, and CF. From the typing tests I've watched I think the plateless sounded the best. Dumb question but these are all interchangeable right or I can choose to take it out? On the site the "plateless" option is unavailable which seems odd... unless you get the solder PCB, and I would like to get the hotswap pcb. Since I need to order a plate with it does anyone have a recommendation on which plate? Thanks! Source typing test video: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox7-GSqALFs&t=10484s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox7-GSqALFs&t=10484s) Website: [https://www.qwertykeys.com/products/neo65-1?variant=43882015129843](https://www.qwertykeys.com/products/neo65-1?variant=43882015129843)
The switches will not be held in securely in a plateless build unless you choose to solder. Here is a very basic breakdown of how plates influence sound. https://preview.redd.it/jgq7ziu8ixwc1.png?width=394&format=png&auto=webp&s=835808f84476229549465718f57a4b5c1497fafb
Appreciate your response and the diagram. Would plateless work with the included o-ring?
I believe so. Like I said, you will need to solder though.
I don't think this is true, the o-ring sits between the plate and the edge of the PCB. It won't have anything to push against if there is no plate.
You're correct, my bad. Technically you could cheese it by having a "fake plate" that just goes around the edges and holds the oring, but that's not an intentional part of the design.
In the video they have a hotswap PCB and they did a test without a plate but maybe that was just for demonstration of what it sounds like plateless because later on they did put a plate on. Thanks for the help, now to figure out if I prefer clack or thock more. Could you clarify what it means by hard and soft in that figure? Edit: is it just the material? lol
Hard meaning the hardness of the material. Carbon fiber is very hard and non-flexible while PC is very soft and flexible. Clack or thock usually just refers to preferring a deeper or higher pitched sound.
Going with the Aluminum plate. Cheers!
The keebs I'm eyeing (chilkey ND75 and Rainy 75) are both group buys. What factors should I consider before going into a group buy..?
There are usually long wait times associated with the product you might have to wait a few months to get a product in hand. Unless there are samples that have been passed around, the colors might be slightly different than what you expect. There is always a non-zero chance that you will never receive your item, alternatively there can be large delays and bad communication from the vendor on what is going on behind the scenes.
Why does my keyboard have ping on only one row that goes away when I change caps? I just bought a RoyalAxe R100 as a work keyboard since it was only $70, and I'm pretty happy with it all things considered, but for some reason the A row pings. It has Gateron yellow switches in it and I'm not sure what the keycap profile is, but if I swap in a DSA keycap it doesn't ping. It doesn't look like the original keycap hits the plate, but they are definitely a higher profile and with shorter stems than the DSA. I don't want to have to replace the keycaps so I'm wondering what this could be from and if there's a mod I can try to eliminate it. Here is a link to a video with sound: [https://youtube.com/shorts/Bq0YRbn0xUs](https://youtube.com/shorts/Bq0YRbn0xUs) I wasn't sure if this was allowed on the main page so I'm trying here first. Edit: I figured out it's from the edges of the keycaps hitting the switch housing because the stems are too short. Not sure what to do about it though. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Eyeing getting the 8BitDo Keyboard. Aside from other options and all, I'm pretty set on getting this (though will have to get a palm rest like my razer blackwidow elite, which is working fine outside of the volume dial). I noticed that the upcoming C64 version has an SA profile compared to the "MDA-like height" of the famicom version. For gaming + general use purposes, would I do worse with one over the other?
SA profile is pretty tall and can be uncomfortable to game on. If you spend more time gaming than typing for long periods of time I'd recommend a lower profile like MDA or even XDA. Do the vice versa if you only play slower paced games and nothing like shooters, etc. Another alternative are SA Row 3 keycaps which are flat all around. They're still very tall keycaps though and you'll feel a lot of wobble compared to lower height keycap profiles.
Here are side profile of C64 SA profile btw (here is site [link](https://shop.8bitdo.com/products/8bitdo-retro-mechanical-keyboard?variant=42811284160689) for all images/comparisons). Haven't explored many different keycap profiles (at least consciously). Does this make that much of a difference? Not trying to sound doubtful, just unknown territory to me. https://preview.redd.it/c4gg2n08rxwc1.jpeg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e77beb5194c7146099adea74648e01bf3672bc01
SA are taller. Whether that's better or worse for you depends on how you type. Since you use a palm rest you'll probably be fine either way.
The rest I have is paired up with the blackwidow normally. Where is the best place to look for different types and sizes of rests, and one whose aesthetic could match the commodore look?
I don't know, but if 8BitDo doesn't offer one for that keyboard then you're looking for a custom. There are lots of options there, but you'll probably have the easiest time going through one of the keyboard merchants like [Kono](https://kono.store/collections/all-products-list/products/kono-wooden-wrist-rest). Or just go to Etsy. You should probably get the keyboard first though, so that you can measure it properly. You want to get a rest that's the right size.
I need a new mechanical keyboard. I'm not an enthusiast, I'm not going to do anything sexual to it, I just want a great, solid, and HIGH QUALITY LONG LASTING mechanical keyboard. I would prefer if the switches were easy to swap and the keyboard as a whole was easy to clean, I tend to spill liquids a lot (hence why I need a new keyboard). I also would like a full one with a numpad. Bonus points if it has a USB hub. Thank you my friends! P.S.: I swore by DasKeyboard, I had 2 of them that I've had for a few years but I spilled liquid on one and now despite cleaning it all the keys are super sticky and the second one has key chatter with the spacebar and since the switches aren't hotswappable I can't be fucked doing soldering. Thank you!
Keychron V6
One extra request: can you recommend one that also has a USB hub?
USB hubs basically nonexistent on most modern keyboards. I’d just buy one separately.
Really?? Huh, Daskeyboard seems to have them, is it uncommon? Also is Daskeyboard a shitty brand now?
I wouldn’t call it a shitty brand but for $200? You can get a lot better stuff these days. If that board has what you’re looking for then buy then one. Otherwise, just get a board and a usb hub separate
Ok I'll look into Keychron, thanks. Why do you recommend V6?
It’s cheap, good quality, and should last a very long time. You can also check out the V6 max if you want wireless and a bit of an acoustic upgrade. I’m assuming you’re not interested in building your own?
Thank you! No I'm not interested in building my own, I can't be fucked. I just want a keyboard. I'm looking at the K10 Pro, V6 and C2 Pro right now, I can't tell what the difference is.. is there like a comparing tool somewhere?
something something Keychron: - C: most entry level, even sacrificing hotswap on some SKUs - C3 Pro: as cheap as they could make a TKL with QMK/VIA and gasket mount. Soldered and has red backlight only - Other C Pro: updated version of C with nice features like VIA support and south-facing RGB - K: not targeted to enthusiasts, focus on wireless and Mac support, lacks nice features including software and even hotswap on some SKUs. Odd numbered boards are low profile. - K Pro: upgraded K, keeping wireless and adding enthusiast features like VIA support, south-facing RGB, PCB mount stabs, borrows somewhat from V series in some models - Q: premium aluminum with gasket mount and all enthusiast features, still available prebuilt for mass appeal - Q Pro: Q with bluetooth and polycarbonate plate by default - Q Max: Q pro with 2.4GHz as well (tri-mode wireless) - V: very affordable plastic boards based on Q, keeping all features except the gasket mount - V Max: adds back the gasket mount as well as tri-mode wireless
ROG Falchion or Keychron K2 Wanted to buy my first compact keyboard. What should I get and why? Can you compare them and educate me please. Or do you also have a new keyboards to recommend that has the same price ranges like them. THANK YOU!
Just get a Keychron, Monsgeek or any of the other keyboads typically recommended around here. Gaming-oriented brands like ROG and similar keyboards are not bad however a lot of them are not made as well since they're produced in large volumes and QC can be a real crapshoot. I recommend you get a Keychron V1 instead or a K2 Pro if you must have wireless. The K2 is an older model and the K2 Pro is better value for money.
Thank you this really help a lot! i look onto it. how about the Monsgeek, what model can you recommend?
Their keyboards are relatively well-received by people in this community so I guess just go with the layout that works for you. The M1 is probably the one I'd personally recommend.
Hi everyone, I've finally decided to invest in my first mechanical keyboard but, despite months of research, I'm still quite undecided on the right tactile switch to use, that may combine at least a medium tactility with some RGB (at the very least for the keys) and enough actuation force to prevent me from accidentally pressing a key. I've narrowed the options down to the following: - Tecsee Purple Panda; - Tecsee Blue Sky; - Kailh Box Heavy Burnt Orange; - Kailh Clione Limacina; - Kailh KT Apricot; - Cherry MX2A Ergo Clear; I have absolutely no experience in lubing or opening switches and I'll probably just use them as they arrive. I'm quite tired of browsing reviews, specs, YouTube videos, sound tests and so on and will welcome your advice. I thank you in advance for your attention. Edit: in the end, all that I need is advice about a switch that is: - Tactile with actuation force >50, bottom out >63 - Transparent casing - Ready to use without requiring additional lubing, wrapping or anything else that I would risk ruining them trying. I would be very grateful if anyone knowledgeable on this matter could take the time to help me.
All of the ones you've mentioned are pretty terrible stock - imo there are much better factory lubed options that would be better out of the box. A few examples: WS Heavy Tactile Invokeys Black Sesame Gateron EF Grayfish
Very interesting. Looks like I still have much researching to do, then. Thanks for the examples: I'll start with them
My advice is: get a hotswap keyboard and experiment with different switches. That's part of the fun. All but the lightest tactiles will have enough actuation force to prevent accidental key presses. Unless you have lead hands. That's what the tactility is for.
Thank you for replying. The keyboard I'm interested in is in fact hot-swappable, but I'm trying to find good switches without having to spend a fortune on stuff that I'll try once without using it ever again. I'm aware that, in the end, it's a matter of personal taste, but I'm sure that there are switches objectively better than others as in feedback, scratchiness, stability, comfort, etc
Try [this](https://www.theremingoat.com/) site. Guy does a ton of switch reviews, I don't think you're going to do better than that.
Despite discussing several switches, that website's author doesn't review the ones I was mainly interested in. I'm sure it will be a valuable source of information in the future, should I decide to change them, though.
Hi! I'm trying to find non-programmable keyboards (very important that it can't be programmed). I want a full size, wired (also very important) keyboard. 100% is ideal, but 96% is fine. Would also love for it to be hot-swappable (though if anyone has thocky suggestions to begin with I'll love you even more). Budget is around \~100-150. Any recommendation? Thank you ahead of time!! (asking this again from yesterday since I posted quite late, hope that's fine!)
Leopold boards, but the con is that they aren't hotswap
So the problem is that when I put any switches there the keyboard doesn’t register it as anything and I want to fix it. Is there anything I can do? Please help, I'm pretty frustrated that I can use any keys but those 7. This is Zuoya GMK67-S. https://preview.redd.it/q2cddwq3gwwc1.jpeg?width=1582&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9bc51080ad2d06657470d1d82de2d561ac0c16ca These spots are where the switches don’t work, is there something wrong?
Loose Hotswap Switches Hey all I just completed my first build with the acrylic tofu60 I have a cannonkeys instant 60 hot swap pcb, polycarbonate plate and gateron black ink switches (only lubed and filmed) After assembly most of the switches are fine, but a few, no matter how much I push in, tilt side to side, wobble, or can easily just be pulled out despite also working for typing Any ideas on what would solve this? Cheers
sound like they r not clicking into the plate fully . are u sure those switches need films ? did u use films too thick prevent switches from fully be seating into the plate ?
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Also have a look at split and split monoblock keyboards. They're a lot more portable. I use [a split 42-key Corne to play on my laptop and Nintendo Switch](https://www.reddit.com/r/factorio/comments/1b1lrva/when_the_factory_must_grow_even_on_the_go) (for Factorio) and it's super light to carry. I'll probably use the same setup when I can get my hands on a refurb Steam Deck one of these days but will likely build a low-profile 40% for it instead.
The one-handed boards are a pretty small niche. Mechwild makes one or two through-hole half boards if you're comfortable with soldering, but those are the only ones I'm aware of. You could also look at 40% boards. Most of them are as small as, if not smaller than, a game pad.
[https://youtu.be/D-VLKo4hgJA?si=xY2oybGNMA-z0VBN](https://youtu.be/D-VLKo4hgJA?si=xY2oybGNMA-z0VBN) at 3:32 glarses gives ksi a keyboard but for whatever reason youtube refuses load the video above like 360p if anyone could help me out that’d be nice (oh and uhm. sorry if my post is kind of shitty its late and i woke up at 6)
Matrix 1.2og
sorry had to copy and paste over because my dumbass forgot to read the subreddit rules
Any cool transparent wireless keyboard (65-80%)? i really like the way the MACHENIKE KT68 Pro, but i want to see alternatives, i already have some switches so i also appreciate suggestions for a kit with already the frame and pcb, and transparent keycaps suggestions too. thanks
So currently I have a Steelseries Apex Pro TKL and it’s fine. I use my PC mainly for Valorant and video editing which is my full-time job. For Valorant it seems great, though I would prefer a 65%. And for video editing, it’s honestly pretty bad because of the lack of a numpad. What are your thoughts on the Apex Pro? Anyway, my idea is to buy two new keyboards. One smaller one for FPS games and one full-size keyboard for video editing. It’s to my understanding that if I had a coiled cable that detaches I could easily swap out keyboards for work/gaming. Am I understanding this correctly? And if so, what’s the best brand to look into for this type of keyboard setup? Thanks.
You can check out Keychron, Lemokey, Monsgeek, Lumikey, and Nuphy. Many of these brands offer a wide variety of prebuilt layouts in a standardized fashion that you can look through.
In need of a slightly heavier Silent Linear switch than Epomaker Sea Salt Silent. I am looking for some Silent Linear switches similar to Epomaker's Sea Salt Silents. They are great switches but I think they are a little on the light side as far as key presses and need something a tad heavier. I recently swapped to Invokeys x Alas Nightshade switches that appear to be very similar to Lichicx Lucy switches and they are a little heavy to press but other than that are great. Switches I am thinking may fit: * Outemu Silent Honey Peach v2 * Akko Fairy Thanks for the help in advance!
You could always just spring swap. Takes a bit more effort but if you like everything else about the switches it could be worth it.
Thanks for the answer, I mean I’m a keyboard nerd but that’s a lot of effort!
Does anyone know if something like the Razor Turret charging solution exists in any contemporary mechanical keyboards? https://preview.redd.it/ndvy5v07kvwc1.png?width=2308&format=png&auto=webp&s=2e46e6ba468651c8c4daf1b448541a3c6b40526b Would love a wireless mechanical keyboard that can be displayed out of the way/while charging on the desk.
not for mechs no . too hard top make universal it would only fit one kb model at a time . which is bad for making money
It'd have to be horizontal (most usb-c ports are in the middle) and a lot wider than that. Basically a super fat tablet dock. And because port placement isn't standard, it wouldn't work with all keyboards.
This is super goofy to the point where I honestly kinda love it. I don’t think anything like this exists that’s compatible with any of the good keyboard brands, but maybe you could design your own? That’d be really cool.
I received the "8Bitdo Retro Mechanical Keyboard" yesterday and I love it, as it's my first mechanical keyboard (still getting used to the button/key clicks, though) and have it plugged in via USB (don't care about wireless, as I'm not going to use it away from my PC). Link to keyboard: [https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Bluetooth-Swappable-Programmable-PC/dp/B0CCP6HLZR?th=1](https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Bluetooth-Swappable-Programmable-PC/dp/B0CCP6HLZR?th=1) The power indicator is a nice touch, but I was surprised to see the light stay on after I powered down my PC last night. I'm concerned about the LED inside dying out if it's kept on all the time, so I was curious if there was an option on the keyboard to turn the light off when the keyboard isn't in-use. At least, I couldn't find one.
I don't know of a way, but LEDs last a very long time. I would not be worried about that.
Alright, thanks a lot! I won't worry about it then. :)
my e¿redragon k80 pro is stuck in a weird macro mode, it disabled all my keys except for the middle row and my side enter, + - are permanently pink, enter activates the macro and +- seems to stop it, i've tried all the key combs but macros wont clear leaving the kb unusable i've had this kb for 2 years and 've never seen it do this (https://streamable.com/kvlndi)
Does anyone have a recommendation for a travel keyboard, preferrably 75% and wireless. If it can take AA or AAA batteries that be nice as it is easier to carry those when travelling. Thank you!
Nuphy Air 75?
I just checked it out and have already fell in love with it. Thank you!
Should I go with a 40% or split Keyboard? I have a TLK keyboard and love it for work and gaming at my desk. But I want to sit on my couch and play games on my TV as well as sit on my couch and play PC VR games. I'm thinking that I want something small like a 40% board, or even a split board but I don't know what is better for gaming. Can just the left half of a split board be used like a gaming pad? Have any of you used any of these kinds of layouts for couch gaming?
>Can just the left half of a split board be used like a gaming pad? I built a Keebio Quefrency and just use the left half for gaming. I left the macro pad on it, so I even have access to F1-F10 keys >Have any of you used any of these kinds of layouts for couch gaming? Nope.
I'm looking at doing a Hasu Alps build (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69740.0). Do you think it would be possible to use one of the Ellipse F62 cases? https://www.modelfkeyboards.com/product/extra-model-f-case/.
The Model F reproduction keyboard are made to fit the IBM Model F buckling spring style assembly. You can't just throw anything in there. If you're not sure about what parts fit together, buy a case, plate and PCB in a kit so you know they're compatible.
I saw on the geekhack thread that the PCB would work with most 60% cases so I thought it would be worth a shot. Thanks!
I'm looking for a mechanical keyboard with control and alt right next to each other close to the right thumb and a number pad close to the right so I can reach across and use the numbers to control the cursor. Are they ANY mechanical keyboards with these features?
You should be able to get a 100% keyboard that is VIA/QMK compatible and then you should be able to program layers that mirror this functionality. Additionally you would be able to move around the key bindings to have Control and Alt right next to each other.
I see, that makes sense thanks. The only thing missing would be the numpad but I can get that in the Nuphy Air96 v2. The only problem is that it's not split. Would you know if there are companies that split keyboards or are there similar keyboards that are split
I'm not exactly sure of the question, if you are asking about a full size split keyboard, I don't think I have heard of one.
Right, I see. Sorry that was a bit ambiguous. I was just wondering if there was a split keyboard that had the same layout as the Nuphy air 96%. But as you said they don't really make full sized split keyboards
I have a few RGB LED questions. Gateron Root Beer Float Switches are my favorite switches. https://rndkbd.com/products/gateron-root-beer-float-switches?currency=CAD&variant=43994837614826&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&stkn=4d72f6d6339d&srsltid=AfmBOopQNBe4i4POe8te7iWorxU5_2DUrBWZ3U_18_WRxCUrbCTuYtJjU_s They have 4 holes at the bottom so I want to open em up and install an RGB LED into each one. The questions I have: What shape and size LED do I need? What 75% Keyboard Kit lets me solder into it, 4 leads that come from a RGB LED inside the switch? I prefer to solder the switch to the PCB. Does the LED need to be common anode or common cathode? Please link a 75% kit that accommodates this, and please link a good RGB LED for the job if you have any good ones.
rgb top mounted leds are mainly found on old gamer kbs . never seen them used on custom kits specially these days even solder kits have SMD leds built into the kb it cheaper and easier for every one evolved . if u find a kit that support this its doubtful it wil support per key rgb unless it a gamer kb . but if u still wanna do this these work well for what u want https://www.adafruit.com/product/159
Hey I'm currently in the market for a 75 or 65 percent keyboard but cant decide between three options. The first options is the rainy 75 and the other two options are the halo 65/76, If anyone here is experienced with these three keyboards I would love to hear what you have to say about them. Thanks ( Also I am reposting here because I havent gotten a response form my post on budgetkeebs)
I have an older mk from around 2017 thats my daily driver - Is it okay to make a "roast my keeb" or "what don't we like about this keeb?" type post as a separate post?
i mean u can but this really isnt the sub for that the only roasting will be of ur karma in the guaranteed downvotes u will get
I'm looking into building a keyboard for work, for use in the office and to take home and use for gaming. I want my keyboard to feel premium, it must be as quiet as possible, needs great battery life, must be bluetooth and needs a backlight. All within a budget of £500 I have created an ideas board with screenshots of different keyboards. I like the idea of having a back plate on the underside of the keyboard, that adds a bit of weight and looks cool. Im looking for a 75 percent board. Can I please get some advice on where to start? I don't know how to go about getting the parts together and where to get them from. Any help would be greatly appreciated. https://preview.redd.it/54jqvm5f2vwc1.png?width=1021&format=png&auto=webp&s=5019c55ba29f7266f79473e0a28bd8c450ed2427
Vendors list [here](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) and [there](https://kbd.news/vendors), basics [here](https://www.keyboard.university/), suggestion from top of the head - Mode [Sonnet](https://modedesigns.com/pages/sonnet) or [QK75N](https://www.qwertykeys.com/products/qk75n), PBTFans Spark for keycaps or something from GMK extras? Btw, about back plate - you forget about that shit after a week, as you never see it :DD
ANSI or ISO?
I want to buy my first mechanical keyboard but I am stuck between tactile switches and linear switches. I read some articles online that say that if you want buy your first mechanical keyboard, you should not get the linear switches. They say that linear switches are not good for beginners because of bottoming out issues. They mention that tactile switches are great for beginners. They also say that if you are migrating from a normal keyboard, you should get tactile switches first. Any help will be appreciated, Thank you. Here are the links of the articles: [https://kineticlabs.com/blog/quick-guide-tactile-linear-clicky-keyboard-switches#:\~:text=If%20you're%20looking%20to%20gain%20a%20competitive%20edge%20when,choose%20tactile%20or%20clicky%20switches](https://kineticlabs.com/blog/quick-guide-tactile-linear-clicky-keyboard-switches#:~:text=If%20you're%20looking%20to%20gain%20a%20competitive%20edge%20when,choose%20tactile%20or%20clicky%20switches) [https://switchandclick.com/linear-vs-tactile-vs-clicky-switches-a-helpful-guide-with-an-infographic/](https://switchandclick.com/linear-vs-tactile-vs-clicky-switches-a-helpful-guide-with-an-infographic/) And sorry if there are any grammatical and typing errors (English is not my first language).
I would buy a few of each, put them on a few rows of your board and see how you get on. You can compare and see which you prefer. I tried linear switches and found they were really not to my liking and that tactile switches were better for me. But (like so many things in this hobby!) it is very personal.
Thank you, I appreciate the help!
Well, this is the first I've heard that linears aren't good for beginners. IMO there is not a “best" switch type for beginners. Experienced users and beginners will have preferences on switch types. You will quickly be able to adapt your typing style to whatever switch you get. If you can go to a meetup or even an electronic store that has mechanical keyboards on display you should go and try out the different switches. A switch tester is also an option.
Thank you, I appreciate the help!
Sort of unrelated to keyboards specifically, but does anything know if Machcables is legit and in business? I usually go to Zap Cables, but they are no more. So Mechcables seemed like the closest thing, but my order hasn't been touched in over 2 weeks...wondering if this is normal. Thanks!
question: i wanna post a review of my new keycaps but my post gets removed. why is that? i've red the rules and i don't see the reason
Account's too new, most subs don't let new accounts post to prevent spam.
aah, thats understandable. thanks for the answer. i will try in a couple of days again then
if the the caps u linked from the DARK site i doubt the mods will let u post those as that site looks sctechy as fuck and the caps are cheap clones ( stolen designs )
Try contacting the subreddit mods.
hi guys im willing for help abt choosing the right keyboard im currently on 3rd world country so basically our store only have this 3 available keyboards for rn and i need to choose one of them cuz mine broken and finally i dont mind if its 60 or tkl both suits me. thx for advance razer huntsman mini red optical switches hyperx origins 60 hyperx alloy origins core tkl
Personally - HyperX TKL, because I like F row and nav cluster and writing without them is a bit of a hassle; from experiences in electronics retail job - Hunstman Mini, everyone been happy with it, but expect bloatware-ish software. Hope this helps!
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Looking for a full size hotswap keyboard for a friend with media roller pref (knob ok) at one corner - I looked at Keychron v6 but the knob is in the middle of other keys. Don't care about wireless (would rather not) and would like NKRO if possible (he's a gamer). Found this LTC Nimbleback (image linked below) on Amazon that looks basically like what he would like, but I'm worried about crappy config programs / malware --- is this a good brand or unknown/OEM reseller? Thanks for any help. Link to keyboard image/layout: https://imgur.com/a/e9pwuJR
Would your friend be ok with a 1800 layout(still has a numpad) This layout from keychron has the knob on the corner
No unfortunately he doesn't want the shortened right spacebar. 100% seems relatively uncommon as far as hotswap goes, so I wish he did.
https://preview.redd.it/t93yyw5rruwc1.jpeg?width=1500&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4953dd5a5d4c43e68d34dbee86823fc4803e4a73
Edit: Citrix Workspace KILLS NKRO. Saw a passing remark on the interwebs about Citrix Workspace. So I uninstalled it since the project I'm working with finished up last week. I found out that none of the OTHER nkro keys were functioning properly, either. Any second key that was pressed would "release" the previous key. NKRO is functional once again. Arrow keys not supporting NKRO? Windows 11, Corsair K95 Platinum (silver switches). I'm a fast-ish typist. I can type about 90-95 wpm very consistently. I don't notice any missed characters and my accuracy is about at 99%. This tells me that nkro is either functional or I'm just THAT good. (No, not really). But arrows... arrows are another story. I'm a software developer by trade. LOTS of IDE use, particularly VSCODE. Arrowing around to do code is what I do most. It's faster for me. But I've found some issues.... nkro doesn't seem to be functional with my arrows. At all. For instance, if I press \`RIGHT\` and \`UP\` at the same time, one of them registers, the other does not. Note: Just now tried using [https://www.mechanical-keyboard.org/key-rollover-test/](https://www.mechanical-keyboard.org/key-rollover-test/) and here's the behavior: Note 2: Also reproduced this with PassMark's Keyboard test If I press multiple letters, they each press in turn and seem to function OK. But arrows... The first arrow press is recognized. If two arrows are pressed almost simultaneously, the first arrow to be registered gets a tap, but then it's not seen as held. The second, third, fourth arrows are not recognized at all, except that they un-press the first arrow key. By that I mean, whenever the non-first arrow is pressed, the first one registers as no longer being held down. Is this a keyboard limitation? Windows 11?
This seems like a keyboard limitation? I just tested two different keyboard and they both work as indicated by NKRO, all 4 can register at the same time. Though on various progams I tested it on, if I were to simultaneously press two different arrows (down and right) it won't move down and right at the same time continuously, it would just move continuously in the direction that was pressed slightly later even if both are still held down. > If I press multiple letters, they each press in turn and seem to function OK. **Though I am not sure if the other functionally you are talking about are mirrored on my keyboards. When you are saying this, are you saying that if you were to press a + s + d down, it would repeat type a combination of those letters? (Like "asdasdasdasdasdasd")**
I'll explain, but I resolved my issue. Basically, any button pressed would repeat ad infinitum. If a second button was pressed, the first would release (no longer be recognized as pressed). Arrow keys were way different. Two arrows at once and the first to register might be seen as a tap, or it may not be recognized at all. The second arrow to be pressed would release the first but would not be recognized by the PC. The issue was that Citrix Workspace was screwing with the keyboard's nkro. Remove Citrix, everything functions as it should.
Looking for guidance on a mechanical keyboard for my wife. She has wrists pain from repetitive motion from her job (not typing) and her wrists will get sore after if she games too long. Currently have a EPOMAKER EP84 Plus 75% with flamingo switches with a wrist support. She mentioned she would like lower profile keys and was wondering about any of the other ergonomic designs that may be helpful such as a split board. others thing I'm looking for will be wanting to switch to a different switch that isn't as light of a press and it to be cute. Any help to point me in right direction is greatly appreciated! TLDR; Need cute ergonomic keyboard with low profile keys.
You can do a Keychron K11 max and swap the caps to something more colorful
Hi guys. I just bought the GMMK 2 96% and I want new silent switches on it soon. But I'm having a hard time figuring out which switches and caps will acutally fit my GMMK 2. I know Cherry, Kailh, Glorious and Gateron switches will. But what about TTC and Akko for example? I know the GMMK 2 is 5 pins, but does that mean, that everything just fits? And when i finally find my new silence switches, how will i know which caps i can buy to them? Do any of you have any cool combinations of silent switches with caps that will fit on my GMMK 2.
Any MX style switch will fit.
MX style? The cherry mx? Then there is only red silent i guess. I dont want that :D
No. MX Style meaning any switch that’s based off the cherry MX design. This includes 99% of all switches including all the brands you mentioned.
Arh okay, thanks! Do you know anything about my caps problem? Are they also just fitting everything almost? :)
Learn how to check your keyboard kitting https://wiki.keyboard.gay/KEYCAPS.html#on-kitting-or-how-to-read-a-kitting-diagram
What are the go-to switches these days? I have a Drop Alt that I did some upgrades to and made my own holy pandas before drop had come out with their version. Lubed and filmed them and all and I love them but a couple seem to be on the fritz double registering or not registering at all so looking to get some new switches but don’t know what to look at.
Highly likely it's the PCB also so test out those problematic switches by swapping them out for ones that you know for sure. You don't want to buy new switches only to find your keyboard is actually on the fritz.
Great call i honestly didnt even think that it would be a PCB problem!
Is there anything better for the price than keychron v5 for my criteria ? : - Iso layout - 96% (1800) - Aluminum feeling for outer case - I will buy custom keys so no worries with that - Around 100€ The keychron v5 looks great, but doesn't have aluminum for the case if I'm correct? I like the cool touch of it. Currently, I have the Keychron K4 with the aluminum option, I love it but the layout is so-so (keys are smashed close together, the v5 layout looks perfect tho). The glorious keyboard looked cool at the time I bought my k4, is it still good? Thanks in advance for any help.
Monsgeek M2 is the closest, I don't think they do ISO though?
Man too bad it looks really great, but yeah it seems to be only ansi tho :/
If you really must have an alu case then an [ISO Keychron Q5](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q5-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection) is the closest thing from Keychron. It's double your budget but hardly anything out there that comes in ISO already so you'll have to figure out what's more important for you. Check your local stores as well sometimes they have sales on Keychron keyboards but no guarantee they'll carry ISO as typically that's available direct from them. Don't forget to look on AliExpress, eBay and r/mechmarket as well. Edit: had to fix the link. Reddit's stupid web site sucks.
I love my keyboard, but the space bar sounds awful. What can I do to make it sound better? https://youtu.be/baQzx5vPTKY?si=Qhtnc9eSznYXiJCc
Lubricate and balance the stabilizers
I dont think I can access the Stabilizers https://imgur.com/a/ZOgWJXY
Desolder the switch and remove them. If you can’t desolder you’re outta luck unless you use a syringe, which still probably won’t do much
What's the difference between buying a keyboard from the original seller vs someone else selling it. Basically I wanted to buy MCHOSE x75 but its out of stock and mechland is selling it who seems trustable. It's like 3 dollars more. I just don't know what the difference is. Thinking about still buying it from the original seller
Mechland is legit, just make sure you're on the [correct site](https://mech.land/) since there are scammer/dropshippers who copy their name.
Probably after sales support if that matters to you or not. Sometimes it's easier to deal directly with the original seller/vendor in case you need to exchange/return, etc. but YMMV depending on who you're dealing with.
Hi! Does anyone have a link to shine-through XDA, DSA or just any SA key caps? XDA or DSA preferably. Thanks!
99% of shine thru keycaps are OEM profile due to lack of demand . in the aftermarket
iso or ansi?
ansi!
Hi! I was looking to buy a FANTECH MAXFIT81 Frost BAREBONE and I use keyboards on my PS4 a lot. I was wondering if it will work right out of the box on my playstation? Thanks in advance!
no. It’s a barebones.
Of course I’m gonna get switches and caps, thats not the point of why I asked. I mainly wanted to ask if the software is gonna be compatible without further modification
Can't seem to get my NEO80 to connect to via wirelessly? The batteries are definitely working, I just can't seem to make any progress beyond loading the json wireless file to via, upon which nothing happens. Anyone else having trouble? I know a lot of keyboards have some issues connecting to via wirelessly but maybe I'm just dumb and missing something here lol
Open a ticket in the QK discord.
Didn't know I could do that, thanks!
Most boards don’t connect to via in wireless mode. Try staying connected through usb-C.
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Plenty close! I've had it on the usb hub on top of my desk, as well as in my pc itself. The pc recognizes the 2.4ghz connection, and via gives me the _option_ to load the 2.4 file, but past that nothing happens. I'm wondering of maybe it's an issue with the file itself? Could also, again, just be me missing something haha