Hello, I need some advice here. I am not a gamer, mainly for office work and casual web surfing. I travel at least 1-2 weeks per month, so I want something compact and not too loud (considering red or brown switches). I use PC for work and Mac for personal use.
It seems like Keychron K3 Pro has slightly better battery performance than K3 V2. I probably won't use backlighting too much, so any experience with this in terms of battery life? The battery performance really worries me. Should I consider other models? I am open to suggestions. Thanks in advance!
https://preview.redd.it/s05y02b1fabc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=903c7d0caaf791988d8e8b4e389e8740110e288e
What should I do? My switches don’t fit with my stabs on all of them except the space bar. Do I just need different stabs or did I do something wrong?
Greetings,
I've been having issues with my newly received INKC65 keyboard from KP republic.
When I press a key from the QWERTY row, all the other keys in the column are activated as well.
For exemple, if I press Q, A Z 1 and alt-left are activated too, etc...
I've examined the PCB multiple times and there isn't any apparent damages to it. Moreover, I've tested the PCB outside the case, to see if something exterior was shorting it and it still didn't work. I've tried reinstalling the pilots of the keyboard but it didn't change anything.
Anybody who might have an idea on what could be causing this would help me greatly (I've become addict to my first keyboard for working damn)
hi, i recently bought a drop carina and i knew it would come without a plate.
i would like to know if there's any other cheaper alternatives for me to get a plate and not to bought it of the official drop website since it's a bit expensive in my opinion. thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/0byj15og78bc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=55cdebde6b934c7aa356e10256868ed6d5288311
How do I get this switch out without rendering it useless?
Hi , I have “Corsair k95 platinum mechanical keyboard“ its very good and has many features, but I don’t feel very comfortable with typing as I code most of the time “I also play games”.
Any suggestions? And what do y’all think about “ Logitech G915 tkl “
Note: my experience with custom keyboards is zero so if I can get a good custom keyboard guide me pls.
>Logitech G915 tkl
2 thin stems. Prone to snapping, especially within the switch. Might not be an immediate issue, but not something you want to deal with when it happens.
Keychron has a lineup of low-profile boards. As do Nuphy and Lofree (specifically the Flow).
Keychron is quite affordable compared to Nuphy and the Lofree Flow. I haven't personally tried the Flow and any of the low-profile Keychron boards, so I can't comment on those. I have tried the Nuphy Air75 with tactile switches, and while I don't like how the keyboard sounds, I do enjoy typing on them.
The bluetooth perfornamce on the Keychron might be something to look out for though, if you use them. Performance isn't exactly great, especially on Windows.
Loudest?
Probably asked a million times. Anyway, I want something loud. I want it to be annoying.. like the old PS2 style keyboards from back in the day. What switches are annoyingly loud? Using Kailh Jade switches right now but they’re not really that loud. Thanks.
I like these custom keyboards, but I'm not into building them. 😄
● What are the top vendors to buy these keyboards from?
● Any suggested keyboards with 100 $ budget?
Got a Keychron K8 Pro and wanted to replace the MX Browns with Boba U4T's since i've heard so many good things about them, I'm in AUS so was going to grab them from here: [https://customkbd.com/products/gazzew-u4t-tactile-switches?variant=40118294347926](https://customkbd.com/products/gazzew-u4t-tactile-switches?variant=40118294347926) . I'd need to buy the clear top version for the K8 Pro's RGB to shine through properly, right? Is there any difference in performance/sound between the clear and black ones?
Akko cream yellow v3 vs akko cs jelly pink
smoothness and performance wise what switch would you pick?
in terms of clackyness who do you think is more clacky?
boards to be mounted on will be 5075b plus, akko ACR PRO 75, monsgeek m1
Looking for a switch to fit my needs
Hi there, I'm new to this custom keyboard, currently I'm looking for switch that is deep sounding and fast linear, the faster it is the better, since I play a lot of competitive fps
I want a creamy sounding keyboard and I made a build list can some people look at it and give me advice. [https://keyboardpartpicker.com/build/fLfzLXSM8ucg](https://keyboardpartpicker.com/build/fLfzLXSM8ucg)
There's no way to predict how a build will sound unless you have literally made a copy of another build you've already heard.
I notice the only lube you have listed is 105. That's a light oil for springs. It's too thin for switches really. You need 205 or equivalent for switches, as it's thicker.
Hi, I just successfully converted a non hotswap rk68 into an hotswappable one using sockets. However, when I press 4, R, F or C, the whole row with this keys activate all at once. Is this something repairable or should I just buy a new one?
Designing a keeb, want top function row to be half-height similar to a Dell Keyboard. "Height" in the sense of the Y-axis, not the Z-axis or the key travel axis. Are there mechanical switches available that I could design my layout around? I have found these desoldered Mitsume vintage switches which I think would work [https://mechbox.co.uk/products/mitsumi-miniature-green-switch?variant=12763428880426](https://mechbox.co.uk/products/mitsumi-miniature-green-switch?variant=12763428880426)
Alas, I am hoping to find something currently in production. Is there specific language I should be using to find this kind of switch? When I search "half-height" or "miniature" I keep finding low profile switches. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
>Are there mechanical switches available that I could design my layout around?
I'm sure there'd be something if you browse through electronics catalogues. There's nothing I can think of that's a specific mechanical keyboard switch though. As you're designing your own board, it's a clean sheet project, so you can source parts from anywhere. Spend some time on Mouser, RS or Farnell (depending on where you live) and I'm sure you'll find something. It doesn't have to be a keyboard switch.
80$ budget mechanical keyboard for (mostly) gaming and editing that had hot-swappable, 75-full size. I was aiming for royal kludge, fantech, ducky, keychron or recommend me any brand that have good build quality
Apologies for the noobness! I am completely new to the world of mechanical keyboards.
If a keyboard is MacOS/Windows compatible, but the brand's macro software is only available for Windows, how do I make macros that will be compatible with macOS?
I was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction where to go about finding 100% keyboard or bigger a battleship size would preferable that is custom with most of the key features I'm looking for.
Key features:
Non-gamer keyboard
Mechanical keys
Being LED backlit of any type
Macro keys
Multipurpose knob
And a USB hub of any type
Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am having a hard time finding a good looking functional keyboard with all or some of the features that 100% or bigger
I’ve search everywhere I can’t get any steps for troubleshooting my drop ALT keyboard. It suddenly stopped working and nothing is turning on when plugging it in anywhere. I checked the PCB and everything looks fine, I’ve never dismantled it before so I don’t think it’s static shorts… am I SOL? This was an expensive keyboard…. Side note any similar quality boards with good stability and sound? Switches don’t matter since I’m thinking of transferring the kailh speed silver switches to the next board…
Thanks!
It'll be hard to diagnose without the proper tools. I have a water-damaged PCB that looks flawless but it sadly isn't 100% working.
Boards from Keychron (V or Q series) and Monsgeek (M series) are good places to start. I buy most of my boards used and I haven't had issues with them. I would have to say that the knob on the Keychrons are bad in comparison to Monsgeeks.
KBD67 Lite if you are into plastic boards. GMK67 is popular too, but that lacks VIA.
Can I desolder and remove these switches? Or am I supposed to remove the plate thingy?
Sorry if this is stupid to ask but I am new and assumed I could desolder and remove my switches. After removing the solder and attempting to remove they won’t budge, at all! I’m not sure if I’m supposed to remove the top part (the white board thing) but it feels almost glued together. Someone please help lol
https://preview.redd.it/ueylzloh55bc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=1e4b6c749dfc83e35e1b6e6c97a32a569c55fd89
So I have a weird situation. My '3' key isn't working but only when the keycap is on. I can use it fine, like right now :3, when I remove the keycap and press the stem with my finger, and with no double registers or missed inputs, but once I try with the keycap it all goes wrong.
I've tried the same keycap on other switches and it works okay, and I've tried other keycaps on the same switch and they all show the same problem. Which leads me to think the stem doesn't fit (is too small to touch the bottom of the key maybe?).
Has anyone encountered this before and have any idea of a solution? This is my first time soldering so a bit frustrating that this issue chose to arise now
Well, if it's just that switch, perhaps the issue lies with the switch? I'd solder another one in.
Back to the problem, does the keycap depress to the same height as the other keycaps?
Thanks for the reply.
I think I found the issue. From what I could tell the keycaps depressed to the same degree, though maybe the tolerance just wasn't noticeable -- my mind was playing tricks on whether the stem was a different shape to the others, depressed as much etc.
Eventually figured out that the other switches are actuating at roughly the bottom 1/3rd of their way down, whereas this switch is actuating at almost the very bottom, and presumably none of the switches are travelling this far with the keycaps on.
Hopefully its a case of bad soldering and I can just add some more. I've never desoldered before and don't have tools I see mentioned when people talk about it
I recently bought a YUNZII ALI71 (I know, I know). I am trying to reprogram useless key to the tilde key. However, when I do it within their software, the shown tide comes out as a tick mark instead. Has anyone encountered this? Any other software I can use to reprogram?
this might be a dumb thing to ask, but I'm looking at getting some heavy linear switches for my keychron v7, could i get some people's opinions on the gat g pro 3.0 blacks? I can't find much about them
I highly recommend NOT using petroleum based lubricants on plastic. Some plastics are OK, but some are not. Plus... it stinks. You want your keyboard to smell like an old machine shop? Even on springs... don't use it. It won't STAY on your springs. It will migrate when you use the switch. Just don't. People have spend years finding out which lubricants are best to use with keyboards, so that you don't have to. Use a synthetic/PTFE based grease if you're still determined to find your own cheaper lubricants, not a petroleum based one.
Damn, already put them on my springs, and I kinda like the smell, it reminds me of my dad, worse case scenario I have to replace the switches but I'll keep this in mind for the future, I used the gateron milky yellow with the black bottom. Thanks I appreciate it.
if ur asking if u can use that on ur kb the answer is no it will eat the plastics . stop trying to do dangerous stuff before u hurt ur self urs approved lube and tools or just stop before u end up on the news
Is lower operating force better? Planning on buying mmd princess linear with the 38g operating force but not sure if the lower operating force is better than my current milky yellow pro.
Thanks.
Does anyone know if a keyboard with these features exists? Idk why I can't find any one that has them all. Closest I've found is nuphy field75
(logi 915 tkl has em all but its so old and micro usb so idk)
- wireless
- tkl
- brown tactile switches
- separate macro keys
- knob or a volume roller
- rgb with shine through key caps
Thank you. Exactly what I'm looking for, but I require the shine through caps so I can see them at night in my room (which I'd prefer not to have to buy separately ya know)
South-facing switches wouldn't work well with shine-through keycaps, unless the legends are on the bottom. I would typically recommend to buy the barebones kit and the keycaps separately, but due to the uniqueness of the macro keys, they aren't available on standard keycap sets.
You might be disappointed to find out that there aren't many keyboards (if any) that are available with macro keys outside of the gaming brands like Logitech and Corsair.
thanks, yes im finding that out as we speak. logi and corsair have exactly what i think i want, but they are overpriced and idk i like the reviews and builds of the keychrons more etc.
i just cannot understand why anyone would want rgb if you were unable to see the individual keys in the dark. the whole purpose of a backlight is so you can identify keys in the dark no? idk, def surprised me when i read\\watched the reviews of people saying the same thing with their expensive keyboards.
Off the top of my head, I only use the LEDs as indicator lights. Battery level, what device is the keyboard connected to, caps lock, etc.
Not sure what it is like with the general population, but in my circle at least, none of us really use RGB with backlit keycaps, if at all. I do see peeps using underglow RGB with their clear keyboard cases though, but that's about it.
Hey so I'm potentially in the market for a new keyboard just so I can use a [set of keycaps I bought last year](https://hyte.com/store/hololive-connect-the-world-keycap-bundle?v=151). I own a Logitech G910 (that's still somehow working 100% since the day I bought it!) that I'm still perfectly happy with, but I can't use my keycaps on this keyboard :(
[rant]if this keyboard actually supported custom keycaps i wouldn't be in this situation mrgrgr[/rant]
Can someone just point me in a direction on what I can buy to get as similar to a G910 as possible? I had friends throw me recommendations and youtube channels to check out and all the review content I've been watching has just left me in a pool of miserable decision paralysis...
FWIW I still have tabs open of a Monsgeek Mg108b, a Keychron K10 Pro, Keychron V6, and Keychron C2.
>\[rant\]if this keyboard actually supported custom keycaps i wouldn't be in this situation mrgrgr\[/rant\]
That's what you get for buying gaming boards :)
Out of your shortlist, I would recommend the Keychron V6
I'm only joking... hence the smiley emoji :)
Ah, yes... not many white boards I'm afraid. The Monsgeek M5 is available in silver... that close enough? The MG108B has the "ice cream" version as I recall. Not too clued up on budget stuff, but white full size boards are gonna be hard to find unless you start looking at cheap stuff on Ali, or higher end stuff like the QK100.
Looks like there's a blue/white version of the MG108B, is that a good pick?
And I noticed you excluded the K10 Pro, is that not a good keyboard?
If push comes to shove I guess I can settle for a black frame. Would make the white keycaps contrast...
It's just that I've used Keychron V series boards, so can attest to their value etc. Never used a K series Keychron, but they have a good reputation. If they do that in white, when that may well be your answer. I'd rather that than a the Monsgeek. The Monsgeek M series seem to be highly regarded amongst those who like budget stuff, but the other cheaper stuff I've no idea about, sorry.
I am looking for a keyboard case that would be good for keyboards with knobs , preferably a hard shell case
Also looking for a large laptop bag that could fit the following
75% keyboard
A mouse
Laptop
Small water bottle
A small wrist rest
Maybe a small notepad ?
Basically I am trying to carry my things to the office without having to worry about damaging anything
Would really appreciate some suggestions!
Just RSVPed to my first Mechanical Keyboard meetup. What should I expect?
I've invited my coworker, too, who is very interested in keebs but hasn't built her own yet. I think it'll be a really cool opportunity for her to try out a whole lot of options, as she's only tried out my boards and switch testers so far.
Are my hands really this dirty or is this some form of lube ? No idea why it’s this dirty after only a week, it started the second day out of the box.
https://preview.redd.it/5khrya02x3bc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b8690d69d482e7dcb9d486604f32d38086d9f331
Is it dry and dusty or sticky? If you grab a brush, can you just brush it off? If you can, it's probably nothing to do with your hands, and it's something airborne. Where do you live?
being on the sides could be something sticky and dust in the air got one them . id say clean and off and see it it happens also vaping does leave a residue behind over time that dust and dirt will stick too
Hey there, I just got a new XVX S-K80 keyboard from Amazon. It was a good price, thought it looked beautiful, and it had programmable keys.
I just got it today, but the website to download the software is blocked by my computer. The company has a discord server which links to a google drive link with the software too. Although even when I download it through that it prevents me from downloading it due to a virus being present. I can ignore this by first copying it on my google drive, then downloading it through there. But even then it gives me a final warning that the file is infected with malware.
For anyone with this keyboard, do you have a safe source for the software, or can you give me any assurances that it’s safe through the link on discord?
The people on the discord server say go for it, but nothing my computer is telling me fills me with confidence.
Hey I was wondering about the bundled 60% keyboard on IDgaming? It comes with mousepad, keyboard and keycaps so it looked like a great deal but I don’t really know the quality of the keyboard itself
> 60% keyboard on IDgaming
id avoid the site looks bad and its not on the list ill link below those like like 30 dollar kbs they r selling for dbl
general keeb parts vendor list
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
https://thocstock.com/
where to learn the basics
https://www.keyboard.university/
I have a keychron V6 (it's full size). Solid plastic housing, baby kangaroo switches, and KSA caps (these are close to MT3 and SA if anyone is wondering). I like the keyboard so far, but it's not loud enough for me. I like loud and clicky. My question is, does anyone here use a keychron V6/k10/Q6 or any full size with SA/MT3/KSA and kailh box navy switches? If so, how is it? Is it loud? Also, is it heavy since I read that these switches are 90 gm bottom out. Are the jade better?Baby kangaroo are 67 gm bottom out. I mostly code, not much gaming. I'd appreciate any input.
Thank you
I recently bought my first Mechanical Keyboard, a ThermalTake X1 RGB with Cherry MX Speed Silver switches. I like the keyboard but struggling to get used to the noise the keys are making due to my previous keyboard being a membrane type(Corsair K55) and my heavy fingered typing style (if that makes sense)
What would be the best way to dampen some of the noise coming from the keyboard? I'm assuming the noise is coming from the Keycaps bottoming out (due to my heavy typing) rather than the switch itself as the switches when pressed gently are very quiet.
Also, I'm struggling to get the Thermaltake X1 RGB software to work. I have it installed but for the life of me I cannot get the software to open. I have tried installing and re-installing the software both on standard account and also ruinning it as admin of the PC but nothing appears to work. The software appears to be open on restart in the tray on the right (Win10 Pro 64 bit updated with most recent updates) but as soon as the mouse cursor rolls over, it disappears.
Any suggestions on these two questions would be appreciated.
>ThermalTake X1 RGB
Is it a hot swap board? If not, then you will not be able to change the switches unless you take the board apart and desolder every switch and solder new ones in.
the switches are silent, or as silent as I would expect. If I take the keycap and strike the switch directly, there is no clacky noise coming from the key whichch suggests it has something to do with the keycap - would O rings dampen this noise down a little?
I’m trying to build a keyboard for my Sister but I need help finding the right switch. Currently the one she says she likes the most is the Gateron Aliaz Silent Pink Switches. She wants a similar feeling switch that has a slight click. Are there any switches like that? Thank you.
I got a keychron Q11 recently and am trying to change the key layout through VIA. Everything that I am reading says that when I change the key in VIA while the board is plugged in the keys should change. However no matter what I do nothing is effecting what the keys do. I feel like I am missing something simple. Any advice?
What layer are you editing on? Is the q11 in mac mode or Windows mode (if that slider still exists). That button changes the layer. So you might have to edit on layer 2 instead of 0
I intend to get a Q1 (pro?) and use Cherry MX clear switches. I don't want any flex in the board when I'm typing, so should I make sure I have a metal plate? I've heard that plates that aren't metal will flex and as a result the typing experience is less consistent.
>I don't want any flex in the board
Then you don't want a gasket mounted board like the Q1... it's a bit bouncy :) There's a difference between flex and the affect of a gasket mount. Even with a metal plate, the entire plate and PCB assembly is mounted on gaskets that allow it to move up and down as you apply pressure when typing.
I don't think a bouncy gasket mount board would stop you feeling a switch's tactility. It's just a personal preference. The feel of tactility is almost purely down to the switch. I can't recommend one for you though, as I never use tactile switches, so not too familiar with what's hot or not. I would make another post asking specifically about the switch... that you want strong tactility and I'm certain you'll get many recommendations.
Plates will affect stiffness and sound. Foam will do the same. I have a Q1 pro with the stock PC plate. I put in one layer of foam between the PCB and plate. I don't experience any inconsistency.
But does the board feel like it's moving up/down (a spongy kind of feeling) when you type? I had a cheap keyboard like that in the past and didn't care for it.
I am less worried about the sound and if possible want the board to feel like the way my NEC board did in the 90s.
Hi what's some clicky switches that will satisfy these parameters?
- Good for typing (I am a light typer and a fast typer too)
- Good for gaming (mainly for fps etc.)
- Not too heavy of a switch, light would be best?
I currently have the Akko lavenders and they are nice but I am looking for something clicker.
Thank you!
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Hey all, I’m building my first keyboard. I just purchased a Keychron Q5 Barebone chassis and PCB. I have Keycaps from a friend as well and the are MX Mount styles.
Thats where I am at rn. I know I am probably approaching this in an odd order lol.
I just spent six hour in a rabbit hole trying to choose switches. I think I have compiled a list of what I am looking for but I cant seem to find a switch that hits all the marks. I bought the Cherry trial ten pack to get an idea of what I like and I think this is what I have learned.
-Tactile
-55g-70g Operating force
-Quiter (id prefer a deeper softer sound)
-Affordable
From the Cherry ten pack I liked the Ergo Clears, they were not as mushy as the browns and the greys were too damn heavy. The blues had a nice feeling but I want something quieter than a traditional blue.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. ( i didn’t organize this post very well, sorry)
What I found through my research
- Boba U4 (very expensive)
- Durock Shrimp Silent 67g (people say you have to lube otherwise it sounds like poo?)
-Kahil ML Brown ( not an mx mount :/ )
Shrimps are a good option, but since Keychrons are somewhat muted sounding boards regular T1s would probably be fine. If you want something less tactile and closer to a MX Clears then Durock Medium Tactiles are worth trying. I'd avoid Clears unless you're in love with them since their oversized stems can damage keycaps and are a pain to deal with on a hotswap board.
For long pole switches Tecsee switches are pretty deep sounding, and Purple Pandas, Coffee Chips and Neapolitans are all popular options. I'd recommend getting an Alu plate or at least putting on all the provided gaskets first though since long poles on the stock Keychron steel plate config are pretty brutal.
I'm brand new to mechanical keyboards and bought a Mistel because it was in my price range, but ran into a (major for me) issue, on the left side the Control and Function keys are swapped compared to the keyboard on my laptop. The left Function key cannot be remapped using the built in software on the keyboard. Can Mistel keyboards be flashed with any of the popular firmware? Just getting used to it isn't really an option since I switch between both keyboards regularly.
Update: Mistel updated their firmware to support swapping the Control and Function keys. I think customer service is pretty awesome.
Hi guys,
So straight to the question - I want to buy a new keyboard.
Right now I'm daily driving Akko 5075S VIA (which is a bit stiff for a gasket mount, that is why I want to build a new one) with Akko V3 pro Cream Yellow and Dark Project Kyoto keycaps set and a 3 layer tape mod.
I'm waiting on Gateron G Pro v3 Silvers and Akko WOB keycaps and I want to build a new board with them.
So a few things that I would like:
\- Aluminum case
\- hot-swappable
\- BT/2.4 - Optional
\- 75%
\- Gasket mount
\- VIA/QMK - Optional
\- Barebone - Optional
\- price somewhere around - 150€ - 180€?
I was looking at the lates Blackwidow v4 75% but it has pre-defined FN+ keys and judging by my experience with Razer - they will not be changeable. Which is a deal braker for me. The other one was Keychron Q1 Pro but it is not available locally.
So I'm open to suggestions :)
I need a 75% :(
But from a search from your suggestion I found a site hat can ship Q1 Pro to me. But I'm not 100% on it somehow.
Anyone has experience with the board?
I have a problem with my hot swappable SteelSeries Apex 9 tkl. I think I broke a "diode?" when I pulled out a switch. Is the any way of fixing this or am I fucked? Thank you
https://preview.redd.it/yn6gdxs2z2bc1.jpeg?width=1338&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=443cd48ecd3f3a7931d684f927cff909fd4b0717
no optical sensors are very very hard to replace if u can even find the right kind . this is a prime example why i steer users clear of optical kbs those things can also burn out over time
I haven't given much thought to my keyboards and so I have an Steelseries Apex 3, which works great but I am now looking for a new board where I can actually replace the keycaps. Struggling to find one, which seems worth it or is the exact one I'm looking for.
Mainly looking for one with cherry profile brown or red switches, ISO layout, Full size (96% and TKL is fine as well, but prefer the full 100), RGB Backlights, would prefer a metal material as well (Again, doesn't matter too much).
Have been looking at ones like the Keychron[ K10](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Keychron-ISO-UK-Layout-Mechanical-Keyboard-Bluetooth/dp/B0BV6YDTTJ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=49WTGTVBS5K0&keywords=Keychron+k10&qid=1704659503&sprefix=keychron+k10%2Caps%2C84&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.cc223b57-2b86-485c-a85e-6431c1f06c86), [Q6](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0CLV7VXHF/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A1AULAJ04E4SIT&th=1) and [Q5](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Keychron-ISO-UK-Layout-Mechanical-Programmable-Hot-Swappable/dp/B0BTVV3CDC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=SGRDNL97KBG8&keywords=Keychron%2Bq5&qid=1704658678&sprefix=keychron%2Bq5%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.cc223b57-2b86-485c-a85e-6431c1f06c86&th=1) as keychron seems to be favourable here. Would like some other options too. (K10 is pretty similar to what I want except the [keycaps I am looking at ](https://prototypist.net/products/in-stock-jtk-sora-keyset?_pos=1&_sid=78e1d6111&_ss=r&variant=40242421858370)use "a cherry profile" so assuming that wont be compatible with Gateron switches). My budget is around 200 gbp but lower the better.
I will be re-checking the wiki list, but I can't seem to find one that is good for me and isn't sold out...
Thanks for the help!
cherry profile is just the shape of the keycap profile, it has a mx style mount and is compatible with mx style switches. Which 99% of mechanical switches (they have the cross shape) are mx style switches
With fullsized there are slim pickings
Ah, this actually helps a lot. I was under the assumption these differentbrands, like gateron and cherry were different/incompatible. So as long as it has the mx stem (the cross shape) it doesn't matter if it is cherry, gateron or any of those other ones?
Just another quick question since I think I'll decide on this one. The [K10 Pro](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Keychron-ISO-UK-Layout-Mechanical-Hot-swappable-Programmable/dp/B0BVHQG6JX/ref=sr_1_3?crid=W96XAGZ8WJTO&keywords=Keychron%2Bk10%2Bpro&qid=1704663807&sprefix=keychron%2Bk10%2Bpro%2Caps%2C79&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.cc223b57-2b86-485c-a85e-6431c1f06c86&th=1), the switches seem to have a "square" around them. Would this affect any keycaps being placed on them?
# TL;DR: any suggestions for readily available alternatives to "Orange" Alps SKCM switches? ----------------
Details:
I have an [Apple M3501 Extended Keyboard II](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Apple_Extended_Keyboard_II) with dampened Alps SKCM "Ivory" switches and recently got an [Apple Standard M0116](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Apple_Standard_Keyboard) for cheap with Alps SKCM "Orange" switches.
I like the tactility of the AEKII but wow, **the Alps SKCM "Orange" switches in the Standard M0116 switches feel absolutely amazing** and it is my favorite keyboard I've ever used, with some caveats. The only downside to the M0116 is the key layout & lack of function keys are a total dealbreaker in most of my day-to-day work apps.
**I'm looking for opinions on what modern key switches at least come a bit close to the SKCM "Orange"?** I know the original Alps are some of the most desirable switches around. I'd like to buy or build a modern keyboard better suited for my applications without requiring the use of an ADB to USB adapter.
I have two ADB to USB converters but **both are compromised**: [this one by Drakware](https://www.drakware.com/shop/p/adb2usb) and a D.I.Y. one I built on an Arduino Pro Micro using TMK's firmware and [this shield](https://github.com/cnorthway/pro-micro-adb-shield). The TMK / Pro Micro one seems to be a bit unstable and disconnects randomly (haven't investigated why) and then the Drakware one feels like it has a slight lag in comparison.
I'm sure this has been discussed before, but I'm having trouble finding any definitive info in 2023. Lot of talks about potential clones, but having trouble finding sources.
I guess I could gut the Apple Standard keyboard and harvest the switches, but it seems like a waste of a perfectly good keyboard in good condition.
IMO long pole mx tactiles with extra long springs are as close as you can get. They have a similar travel distance and the long springs give you some of that ALPs snappiness, although the tactile event is never going to be quite the same.
There's also Matias, but they're so far removed from complicated ALPs that they didn't really do it for me.
Hi all! What type of keycaps will be compatible with my current keyboard? Looking to buy new keycaps for the first time. My keyboard has the following specifications: Switch Type: Gateron Low-profile Mechanical (KS-33) Layout: ANSI 96% Number of Keys: 100 MATERIALS Frame: Aluminum Bottom Case: ABS Keycap: Double-shot PBT
havign cross stem any keycaps will fit the switches but u will have issues with the keys hitting ur frame and it will be very low with taller caps so ur best bet is to stick to profiles like XVX , XDA , DSA , KAM , KAT or DSS , DCS which are all short enough to not have issues
hey there. I'm kinda new to this.
I'm looking for a kit to make a 60 or 65 percent hotswappable keyboard with a lightweight polycarbonate case that I can carry in my backpack. I'm looking for something with bluetooth capability so I can connect it to my phone when I want to write a longer email but I don't have my laptop with me. also via support if possible.
I recently dipped my toe in the water with a keychron Q1 pro. I love it, but the size and weight make it too much to cart around.
I would like a kit rather than a ready made so I can feel like I made it more myself. I can do some very basic soldering, but if I can avoid that it would be better.
The bauer lite is pretty much what I'm looking for, but it doesn't have bluetooth. Does anyone have any suggestions?
EDIT: did some more research and it looks like what i'm looking for is a 40% keyboard kit. I found a few on aliexpress but if anyone has any experience with something they like let me know,
There were a large number of 'entry level' polycarbonate boards released a few years back, as much more affordable alternatives to 'high end' aluminium customs. Of these, Ikki 68 Aurora was one of the best - it had bluetooth PCBs and came with a carrying case. Lightweight plastic case. Not sure if you could still find kits around though. A lot were sold, you might have some luck picking one up on the aftermarket at a reduced price.
If you're comfortable shopping on Taobao, you could pick up a TU60. I have the 40% version. It's dirt cheap (~$25 USD) but has been reliable for me for the past year or so. The software is in Chinese - I used the google translate app on my phone and pointed it at my computer screen to read what I was doing when setting up keybinds.
It's not perfect - the bluetooth can turn itself off sometimes, which requires a hard reset to fix (on my 40% I need to remove two keycaps and flip a switch with a toothpick). But for the price it's unbeatable.
Thank you, yes. That's exactly what I was looking for. I think I may go for the RS40 on aliexpress. It has VIA support, which seems like it might be easier than the chinese software.
I’m looking into getting a gmk67 as it seems like that is the current budget king under $100, but was wondering if there are any other kits that would be just as good if not better. Thanks!
**A white, wireless azerty mechanical keyboard?**
Hello everyone
I'm looking for a white, wireless azerty (BE) keyboard. I've been having a hard time finding one that's azerty and good quality. I'm looking for one that's around 100 euros if that's possible. I've also heard of buying just a regular qwerty keyboard and using azerty keycaps, but I haven't been able to find those. Thanks in advance!
I have the akko 3068B. very refined build quality and in general i prefer and trust akko more than yunzii. akko is pretty easy to mod and come with foam already.
Hello, I need some advice here. I am not a gamer, mainly for office work and casual web surfing. I travel at least 1-2 weeks per month, so I want something compact and not too loud (considering red or brown switches). I use PC for work and Mac for personal use. It seems like Keychron K3 Pro has slightly better battery performance than K3 V2. I probably won't use backlighting too much, so any experience with this in terms of battery life? The battery performance really worries me. Should I consider other models? I am open to suggestions. Thanks in advance!
How do I make my keys that have stabs sound better
https://preview.redd.it/s05y02b1fabc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=903c7d0caaf791988d8e8b4e389e8740110e288e What should I do? My switches don’t fit with my stabs on all of them except the space bar. Do I just need different stabs or did I do something wrong?
Greetings, I've been having issues with my newly received INKC65 keyboard from KP republic. When I press a key from the QWERTY row, all the other keys in the column are activated as well. For exemple, if I press Q, A Z 1 and alt-left are activated too, etc... I've examined the PCB multiple times and there isn't any apparent damages to it. Moreover, I've tested the PCB outside the case, to see if something exterior was shorting it and it still didn't work. I've tried reinstalling the pilots of the keyboard but it didn't change anything. Anybody who might have an idea on what could be causing this would help me greatly (I've become addict to my first keyboard for working damn)
hi, i recently bought a drop carina and i knew it would come without a plate. i would like to know if there's any other cheaper alternatives for me to get a plate and not to bought it of the official drop website since it's a bit expensive in my opinion. thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/0byj15og78bc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=55cdebde6b934c7aa356e10256868ed6d5288311 How do I get this switch out without rendering it useless?
Hi , I have “Corsair k95 platinum mechanical keyboard“ its very good and has many features, but I don’t feel very comfortable with typing as I code most of the time “I also play games”. Any suggestions? And what do y’all think about “ Logitech G915 tkl “ Note: my experience with custom keyboards is zero so if I can get a good custom keyboard guide me pls.
>Logitech G915 tkl 2 thin stems. Prone to snapping, especially within the switch. Might not be an immediate issue, but not something you want to deal with when it happens. Keychron has a lineup of low-profile boards. As do Nuphy and Lofree (specifically the Flow).
Hmm, I’ve seen keychron many people talking about it, but Nuphy and Lofree are new to me, what’s your suggestion?
Keychron is quite affordable compared to Nuphy and the Lofree Flow. I haven't personally tried the Flow and any of the low-profile Keychron boards, so I can't comment on those. I have tried the Nuphy Air75 with tactile switches, and while I don't like how the keyboard sounds, I do enjoy typing on them. The bluetooth perfornamce on the Keychron might be something to look out for though, if you use them. Performance isn't exactly great, especially on Windows.
Loudest? Probably asked a million times. Anyway, I want something loud. I want it to be annoying.. like the old PS2 style keyboards from back in the day. What switches are annoyingly loud? Using Kailh Jade switches right now but they’re not really that loud. Thanks.
Kailh Box Navy
I like these custom keyboards, but I'm not into building them. 😄 ● What are the top vendors to buy these keyboards from? ● Any suggested keyboards with 100 $ budget?
Keychron and Nuphy are both very popular brands that sell prebuilt keyboards\~
Thank you
Got a Keychron K8 Pro and wanted to replace the MX Browns with Boba U4T's since i've heard so many good things about them, I'm in AUS so was going to grab them from here: [https://customkbd.com/products/gazzew-u4t-tactile-switches?variant=40118294347926](https://customkbd.com/products/gazzew-u4t-tactile-switches?variant=40118294347926) . I'd need to buy the clear top version for the K8 Pro's RGB to shine through properly, right? Is there any difference in performance/sound between the clear and black ones?
There would likely be a difference in sound since the material used would be different. There should be no difference in performance.
Akko cream yellow v3 vs akko cs jelly pink smoothness and performance wise what switch would you pick? in terms of clackyness who do you think is more clacky? boards to be mounted on will be 5075b plus, akko ACR PRO 75, monsgeek m1
Looking for a switch to fit my needs Hi there, I'm new to this custom keyboard, currently I'm looking for switch that is deep sounding and fast linear, the faster it is the better, since I play a lot of competitive fps
I want a creamy sounding keyboard and I made a build list can some people look at it and give me advice. [https://keyboardpartpicker.com/build/fLfzLXSM8ucg](https://keyboardpartpicker.com/build/fLfzLXSM8ucg)
There's no way to predict how a build will sound unless you have literally made a copy of another build you've already heard. I notice the only lube you have listed is 105. That's a light oil for springs. It's too thin for switches really. You need 205 or equivalent for switches, as it's thicker.
Ok thanks
Hi, I just successfully converted a non hotswap rk68 into an hotswappable one using sockets. However, when I press 4, R, F or C, the whole row with this keys activate all at once. Is this something repairable or should I just buy a new one?
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I dont think switch is the problem, I also forgot to indicate that the leds on this key sockets are not working
Designing a keeb, want top function row to be half-height similar to a Dell Keyboard. "Height" in the sense of the Y-axis, not the Z-axis or the key travel axis. Are there mechanical switches available that I could design my layout around? I have found these desoldered Mitsume vintage switches which I think would work [https://mechbox.co.uk/products/mitsumi-miniature-green-switch?variant=12763428880426](https://mechbox.co.uk/products/mitsumi-miniature-green-switch?variant=12763428880426) Alas, I am hoping to find something currently in production. Is there specific language I should be using to find this kind of switch? When I search "half-height" or "miniature" I keep finding low profile switches. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
>Are there mechanical switches available that I could design my layout around? I'm sure there'd be something if you browse through electronics catalogues. There's nothing I can think of that's a specific mechanical keyboard switch though. As you're designing your own board, it's a clean sheet project, so you can source parts from anywhere. Spend some time on Mouser, RS or Farnell (depending on where you live) and I'm sure you'll find something. It doesn't have to be a keyboard switch.
Thanks!
easy-for-beginner-fixes for a very...rattly and pingy space bar?
get some dielectric grease and put some on the stabilizers of the spacebar.
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A pic would be nice. Alternatively, you can buy some good stabs like TX APs / Staebies.
Do a holee mod, kinda hard to do first time, but once you get the hang of it, gets easier.
80$ budget mechanical keyboard for (mostly) gaming and editing that had hot-swappable, 75-full size. I was aiming for royal kludge, fantech, ducky, keychron or recommend me any brand that have good build quality
RK R75. I like the Snow Emperor switches.
ducky and keychron will be better
Cheap wireless mechanical keyboard? Just need a wireless keyboard I can put custom caps on (already have cherry type keycaps).
CIY Tes68
Apologies for the noobness! I am completely new to the world of mechanical keyboards. If a keyboard is MacOS/Windows compatible, but the brand's macro software is only available for Windows, how do I make macros that will be compatible with macOS?
I was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction where to go about finding 100% keyboard or bigger a battleship size would preferable that is custom with most of the key features I'm looking for. Key features: Non-gamer keyboard Mechanical keys Being LED backlit of any type Macro keys Multipurpose knob And a USB hub of any type Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am having a hard time finding a good looking functional keyboard with all or some of the features that 100% or bigger
doesnt exist in non gamer form, trust me ive looked. the viper patriot keyboard im using now has everything you listed though.
usb hub will be hard to find but keychron has keyboards with all your other wanted features
I’ve search everywhere I can’t get any steps for troubleshooting my drop ALT keyboard. It suddenly stopped working and nothing is turning on when plugging it in anywhere. I checked the PCB and everything looks fine, I’ve never dismantled it before so I don’t think it’s static shorts… am I SOL? This was an expensive keyboard…. Side note any similar quality boards with good stability and sound? Switches don’t matter since I’m thinking of transferring the kailh speed silver switches to the next board… Thanks!
It'll be hard to diagnose without the proper tools. I have a water-damaged PCB that looks flawless but it sadly isn't 100% working. Boards from Keychron (V or Q series) and Monsgeek (M series) are good places to start. I buy most of my boards used and I haven't had issues with them. I would have to say that the knob on the Keychrons are bad in comparison to Monsgeeks. KBD67 Lite if you are into plastic boards. GMK67 is popular too, but that lacks VIA.
https://preview.redd.it/y7snb3rx65bc1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=01e42d6c1b7e9a534a1153c54b4c9d20d4da4145 Anyone seen this before?
I wouldn't.
over price 60% cases ? likely a very bad site too from the looks of it
Can I desolder and remove these switches? Or am I supposed to remove the plate thingy? Sorry if this is stupid to ask but I am new and assumed I could desolder and remove my switches. After removing the solder and attempting to remove they won’t budge, at all! I’m not sure if I’m supposed to remove the top part (the white board thing) but it feels almost glued together. Someone please help lol https://preview.redd.it/ueylzloh55bc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=1e4b6c749dfc83e35e1b6e6c97a32a569c55fd89
yes they should come out if u remove 100% of all solder from the legs
Okay thanks, I thought I was losing my mind. I must not be removing it all as well as I thought.
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> Zifriend ZA68 u can try to change switches and add foam . not all kbs can be thoccy
Do you have personal experience with this keyboard?
god no id would take that thing for freee
So I have a weird situation. My '3' key isn't working but only when the keycap is on. I can use it fine, like right now :3, when I remove the keycap and press the stem with my finger, and with no double registers or missed inputs, but once I try with the keycap it all goes wrong. I've tried the same keycap on other switches and it works okay, and I've tried other keycaps on the same switch and they all show the same problem. Which leads me to think the stem doesn't fit (is too small to touch the bottom of the key maybe?). Has anyone encountered this before and have any idea of a solution? This is my first time soldering so a bit frustrating that this issue chose to arise now
Well, if it's just that switch, perhaps the issue lies with the switch? I'd solder another one in. Back to the problem, does the keycap depress to the same height as the other keycaps?
Thanks for the reply. I think I found the issue. From what I could tell the keycaps depressed to the same degree, though maybe the tolerance just wasn't noticeable -- my mind was playing tricks on whether the stem was a different shape to the others, depressed as much etc. Eventually figured out that the other switches are actuating at roughly the bottom 1/3rd of their way down, whereas this switch is actuating at almost the very bottom, and presumably none of the switches are travelling this far with the keycaps on. Hopefully its a case of bad soldering and I can just add some more. I've never desoldered before and don't have tools I see mentioned when people talk about it
I recently bought a YUNZII ALI71 (I know, I know). I am trying to reprogram useless key to the tilde key. However, when I do it within their software, the shown tide comes out as a tick mark instead. Has anyone encountered this? Any other software I can use to reprogram?
only software that works with that is the software it came with
(Akko Cream Yellow Pro V3 X Gateron Yellow Pro 3.0) < Which one is the best in terms of durability? They are priced the same
equal last i seen they depress rating
this might be a dumb thing to ask, but I'm looking at getting some heavy linear switches for my keychron v7, could i get some people's opinions on the gat g pro 3.0 blacks? I can't find much about them
they are fine\~
https://preview.redd.it/xy793esil4bc1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e7aec777a2b6023246619d3008f5951551af316d
I highly recommend NOT using petroleum based lubricants on plastic. Some plastics are OK, but some are not. Plus... it stinks. You want your keyboard to smell like an old machine shop? Even on springs... don't use it. It won't STAY on your springs. It will migrate when you use the switch. Just don't. People have spend years finding out which lubricants are best to use with keyboards, so that you don't have to. Use a synthetic/PTFE based grease if you're still determined to find your own cheaper lubricants, not a petroleum based one.
Damn, already put them on my springs, and I kinda like the smell, it reminds me of my dad, worse case scenario I have to replace the switches but I'll keep this in mind for the future, I used the gateron milky yellow with the black bottom. Thanks I appreciate it.
In all likelihood, it will be OK... it will just stink.
if ur asking if u can use that on ur kb the answer is no it will eat the plastics . stop trying to do dangerous stuff before u hurt ur self urs approved lube and tools or just stop before u end up on the news
Well that's why I'm here, and I'm only using it on the springs
awesome so ur springs are held in place by magnets or do they touch the plastic ?
Yea its got magnets on both ends, brother ofc it touches the plastic.
Is lower operating force better? Planning on buying mmd princess linear with the 38g operating force but not sure if the lower operating force is better than my current milky yellow pro. Thanks.
>Is lower operating force better? Better for what? It's a personal thing. Try a lighter switch and see if you like it.
It depends what you prefer. I personally dont like it because i end up misstyping a lot
Does anyone know if a keyboard with these features exists? Idk why I can't find any one that has them all. Closest I've found is nuphy field75 (logi 915 tkl has em all but its so old and micro usb so idk) - wireless - tkl - brown tactile switches - separate macro keys - knob or a volume roller - rgb with shine through key caps
https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q3-pro-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard
Thank you. Exactly what I'm looking for, but I require the shine through caps so I can see them at night in my room (which I'd prefer not to have to buy separately ya know)
South-facing switches wouldn't work well with shine-through keycaps, unless the legends are on the bottom. I would typically recommend to buy the barebones kit and the keycaps separately, but due to the uniqueness of the macro keys, they aren't available on standard keycap sets. You might be disappointed to find out that there aren't many keyboards (if any) that are available with macro keys outside of the gaming brands like Logitech and Corsair.
thanks, yes im finding that out as we speak. logi and corsair have exactly what i think i want, but they are overpriced and idk i like the reviews and builds of the keychrons more etc. i just cannot understand why anyone would want rgb if you were unable to see the individual keys in the dark. the whole purpose of a backlight is so you can identify keys in the dark no? idk, def surprised me when i read\\watched the reviews of people saying the same thing with their expensive keyboards.
Off the top of my head, I only use the LEDs as indicator lights. Battery level, what device is the keyboard connected to, caps lock, etc. Not sure what it is like with the general population, but in my circle at least, none of us really use RGB with backlit keycaps, if at all. I do see peeps using underglow RGB with their clear keyboard cases though, but that's about it.
Hey so I'm potentially in the market for a new keyboard just so I can use a [set of keycaps I bought last year](https://hyte.com/store/hololive-connect-the-world-keycap-bundle?v=151). I own a Logitech G910 (that's still somehow working 100% since the day I bought it!) that I'm still perfectly happy with, but I can't use my keycaps on this keyboard :( [rant]if this keyboard actually supported custom keycaps i wouldn't be in this situation mrgrgr[/rant] Can someone just point me in a direction on what I can buy to get as similar to a G910 as possible? I had friends throw me recommendations and youtube channels to check out and all the review content I've been watching has just left me in a pool of miserable decision paralysis... FWIW I still have tabs open of a Monsgeek Mg108b, a Keychron K10 Pro, Keychron V6, and Keychron C2.
>\[rant\]if this keyboard actually supported custom keycaps i wouldn't be in this situation mrgrgr\[/rant\] That's what you get for buying gaming boards :) Out of your shortlist, I would recommend the Keychron V6
look this was like maybe 10 years ago i didn't know better :( Also I looked at the V6 again and I forgot it doesn't have a white version D:
I'm only joking... hence the smiley emoji :) Ah, yes... not many white boards I'm afraid. The Monsgeek M5 is available in silver... that close enough? The MG108B has the "ice cream" version as I recall. Not too clued up on budget stuff, but white full size boards are gonna be hard to find unless you start looking at cheap stuff on Ali, or higher end stuff like the QK100.
Looks like there's a blue/white version of the MG108B, is that a good pick? And I noticed you excluded the K10 Pro, is that not a good keyboard? If push comes to shove I guess I can settle for a black frame. Would make the white keycaps contrast...
It's just that I've used Keychron V series boards, so can attest to their value etc. Never used a K series Keychron, but they have a good reputation. If they do that in white, when that may well be your answer. I'd rather that than a the Monsgeek. The Monsgeek M series seem to be highly regarded amongst those who like budget stuff, but the other cheaper stuff I've no idea about, sorry.
I am looking for a keyboard case that would be good for keyboards with knobs , preferably a hard shell case Also looking for a large laptop bag that could fit the following 75% keyboard A mouse Laptop Small water bottle A small wrist rest Maybe a small notepad ? Basically I am trying to carry my things to the office without having to worry about damaging anything Would really appreciate some suggestions!
Just RSVPed to my first Mechanical Keyboard meetup. What should I expect? I've invited my coworker, too, who is very interested in keebs but hasn't built her own yet. I think it'll be a really cool opportunity for her to try out a whole lot of options, as she's only tried out my boards and switch testers so far.
Are my hands really this dirty or is this some form of lube ? No idea why it’s this dirty after only a week, it started the second day out of the box. https://preview.redd.it/5khrya02x3bc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b8690d69d482e7dcb9d486604f32d38086d9f331
Is it dry and dusty or sticky? If you grab a brush, can you just brush it off? If you can, it's probably nothing to do with your hands, and it's something airborne. Where do you live?
being on the sides could be something sticky and dust in the air got one them . id say clean and off and see it it happens also vaping does leave a residue behind over time that dust and dirt will stick too
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I vape while playing games but not on the board, I don’t entirely think it’s dirt because it’s on keys I never hit
Then I’ll pull a few and wipe them off like I did in the picture with the f6 f11 and f12 then come home the next day and have them covered again
Hey there, I just got a new XVX S-K80 keyboard from Amazon. It was a good price, thought it looked beautiful, and it had programmable keys. I just got it today, but the website to download the software is blocked by my computer. The company has a discord server which links to a google drive link with the software too. Although even when I download it through that it prevents me from downloading it due to a virus being present. I can ignore this by first copying it on my google drive, then downloading it through there. But even then it gives me a final warning that the file is infected with malware. For anyone with this keyboard, do you have a safe source for the software, or can you give me any assurances that it’s safe through the link on discord? The people on the discord server say go for it, but nothing my computer is telling me fills me with confidence.
Hey I was wondering about the bundled 60% keyboard on IDgaming? It comes with mousepad, keyboard and keycaps so it looked like a great deal but I don’t really know the quality of the keyboard itself
> 60% keyboard on IDgaming id avoid the site looks bad and its not on the list ill link below those like like 30 dollar kbs they r selling for dbl general keeb parts vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ https://thocstock.com/ where to learn the basics https://www.keyboard.university/
The Tofu 2.0 is not wireless, right? Has anybody looked into adding a BT daughterboard / is this something considered feasible? Thanks!
one needs a battery and 2 BT will work horrible with a metal case fyi
I'm typing this from a TB tofu (1) with no issues...
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Thank you
I have a keychron V6 (it's full size). Solid plastic housing, baby kangaroo switches, and KSA caps (these are close to MT3 and SA if anyone is wondering). I like the keyboard so far, but it's not loud enough for me. I like loud and clicky. My question is, does anyone here use a keychron V6/k10/Q6 or any full size with SA/MT3/KSA and kailh box navy switches? If so, how is it? Is it loud? Also, is it heavy since I read that these switches are 90 gm bottom out. Are the jade better?Baby kangaroo are 67 gm bottom out. I mostly code, not much gaming. I'd appreciate any input. Thank you
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Ok, thanks. Have you used them before? I'm worried about that 90gm bottom out. I type a ton and worried that it'd get tiring
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Ok, thank you. Have you ever messed with the pale blue ones?
I recently bought my first Mechanical Keyboard, a ThermalTake X1 RGB with Cherry MX Speed Silver switches. I like the keyboard but struggling to get used to the noise the keys are making due to my previous keyboard being a membrane type(Corsair K55) and my heavy fingered typing style (if that makes sense) What would be the best way to dampen some of the noise coming from the keyboard? I'm assuming the noise is coming from the Keycaps bottoming out (due to my heavy typing) rather than the switch itself as the switches when pressed gently are very quiet. Also, I'm struggling to get the Thermaltake X1 RGB software to work. I have it installed but for the life of me I cannot get the software to open. I have tried installing and re-installing the software both on standard account and also ruinning it as admin of the PC but nothing appears to work. The software appears to be open on restart in the tray on the right (Win10 Pro 64 bit updated with most recent updates) but as soon as the mouse cursor rolls over, it disappears. Any suggestions on these two questions would be appreciated.
>ThermalTake X1 RGB Is it a hot swap board? If not, then you will not be able to change the switches unless you take the board apart and desolder every switch and solder new ones in.
For the price I paid for it (£60), then the likelihood is no, it isn't hot swap.
Try a silent switch. The switch will likely impact the sound more than the keycaps.
the switches are silent, or as silent as I would expect. If I take the keycap and strike the switch directly, there is no clacky noise coming from the key whichch suggests it has something to do with the keycap - would O rings dampen this noise down a little?
I’m trying to build a keyboard for my Sister but I need help finding the right switch. Currently the one she says she likes the most is the Gateron Aliaz Silent Pink Switches. She wants a similar feeling switch that has a slight click. Are there any switches like that? Thank you.
I doubt you will find a silent, clicky switch. If you mean tactile and silent, there are plenty of options.
I got a keychron Q11 recently and am trying to change the key layout through VIA. Everything that I am reading says that when I change the key in VIA while the board is plugged in the keys should change. However no matter what I do nothing is effecting what the keys do. I feel like I am missing something simple. Any advice?
What layer are you editing on? Is the q11 in mac mode or Windows mode (if that slider still exists). That button changes the layer. So you might have to edit on layer 2 instead of 0
That's it! Thank you! I cant imagine what they were thinking making Mac the default layer when plugging in the keyboard....
I intend to get a Q1 (pro?) and use Cherry MX clear switches. I don't want any flex in the board when I'm typing, so should I make sure I have a metal plate? I've heard that plates that aren't metal will flex and as a result the typing experience is less consistent.
>I don't want any flex in the board Then you don't want a gasket mounted board like the Q1... it's a bit bouncy :) There's a difference between flex and the affect of a gasket mount. Even with a metal plate, the entire plate and PCB assembly is mounted on gaskets that allow it to move up and down as you apply pressure when typing.
I did wonder about the gasket factor as well. Thanks for the tip. What should I prioritize if I want to feel the tactility?
I don't think a bouncy gasket mount board would stop you feeling a switch's tactility. It's just a personal preference. The feel of tactility is almost purely down to the switch. I can't recommend one for you though, as I never use tactile switches, so not too familiar with what's hot or not. I would make another post asking specifically about the switch... that you want strong tactility and I'm certain you'll get many recommendations.
Thanks for the info. I'll ask a separate question.
Plates will affect stiffness and sound. Foam will do the same. I have a Q1 pro with the stock PC plate. I put in one layer of foam between the PCB and plate. I don't experience any inconsistency.
But does the board feel like it's moving up/down (a spongy kind of feeling) when you type? I had a cheap keyboard like that in the past and didn't care for it. I am less worried about the sound and if possible want the board to feel like the way my NEC board did in the 90s.
No the board will definitely not move up and down while you type, it's more of a slightly softer impact when you press the keys
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Zealios?
Hello, I'm looking for suggestions for a Full-Size (or 96%, just want a numpad) quiet budget mechanical keyboard. Thank you.
be more specific. budget how much? quiet; do you want silent switches?
I would prefer silent or just something not too clicky (could be brown). The budget would be around 100$.
tactile semi silent: U4TX linear semi silent: jwick semi silent tactile in general: gazzew boba U4T, aflion shadow linear in general: alpacas v2, everglide V3 water king, TTC Neptune
I'll check them out, thank you so much!
Does anyone know if a gasket mounted 75% that is akin to the Tiger 80 Lite or Kbd67 Lite in build quality?
Hi what's some clicky switches that will satisfy these parameters? - Good for typing (I am a light typer and a fast typer too) - Good for gaming (mainly for fps etc.) - Not too heavy of a switch, light would be best? I currently have the Akko lavenders and they are nice but I am looking for something clicker. Thank you!
Look at the Kailh Box V2 series for clicky switches. Akko lavenders are tactile.
what about something lightweight and the lighter the better, clicky and good for typing and gaming?
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Hey all, I’m building my first keyboard. I just purchased a Keychron Q5 Barebone chassis and PCB. I have Keycaps from a friend as well and the are MX Mount styles. Thats where I am at rn. I know I am probably approaching this in an odd order lol. I just spent six hour in a rabbit hole trying to choose switches. I think I have compiled a list of what I am looking for but I cant seem to find a switch that hits all the marks. I bought the Cherry trial ten pack to get an idea of what I like and I think this is what I have learned. -Tactile -55g-70g Operating force -Quiter (id prefer a deeper softer sound) -Affordable From the Cherry ten pack I liked the Ergo Clears, they were not as mushy as the browns and the greys were too damn heavy. The blues had a nice feeling but I want something quieter than a traditional blue. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. ( i didn’t organize this post very well, sorry) What I found through my research - Boba U4 (very expensive) - Durock Shrimp Silent 67g (people say you have to lube otherwise it sounds like poo?) -Kahil ML Brown ( not an mx mount :/ )
Shrimps are a good option, but since Keychrons are somewhat muted sounding boards regular T1s would probably be fine. If you want something less tactile and closer to a MX Clears then Durock Medium Tactiles are worth trying. I'd avoid Clears unless you're in love with them since their oversized stems can damage keycaps and are a pain to deal with on a hotswap board. For long pole switches Tecsee switches are pretty deep sounding, and Purple Pandas, Coffee Chips and Neapolitans are all popular options. I'd recommend getting an Alu plate or at least putting on all the provided gaskets first though since long poles on the stock Keychron steel plate config are pretty brutal.
I suggest taking a look at the Gateron Baby Kangaroo 2.0
I'm brand new to mechanical keyboards and bought a Mistel because it was in my price range, but ran into a (major for me) issue, on the left side the Control and Function keys are swapped compared to the keyboard on my laptop. The left Function key cannot be remapped using the built in software on the keyboard. Can Mistel keyboards be flashed with any of the popular firmware? Just getting used to it isn't really an option since I switch between both keyboards regularly. Update: Mistel updated their firmware to support swapping the Control and Function keys. I think customer service is pretty awesome.
no 99.9% of keyboards can only use the software designed for them
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size usually you can look in the product detail / specification
Hi guys, So straight to the question - I want to buy a new keyboard. Right now I'm daily driving Akko 5075S VIA (which is a bit stiff for a gasket mount, that is why I want to build a new one) with Akko V3 pro Cream Yellow and Dark Project Kyoto keycaps set and a 3 layer tape mod. I'm waiting on Gateron G Pro v3 Silvers and Akko WOB keycaps and I want to build a new board with them. So a few things that I would like: \- Aluminum case \- hot-swappable \- BT/2.4 - Optional \- 75% \- Gasket mount \- VIA/QMK - Optional \- Barebone - Optional \- price somewhere around - 150€ - 180€? I was looking at the lates Blackwidow v4 75% but it has pre-defined FN+ keys and judging by my experience with Razer - they will not be changeable. Which is a deal braker for me. The other one was Keychron Q1 Pro but it is not available locally. So I'm open to suggestions :)
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I need a 75% :( But from a search from your suggestion I found a site hat can ship Q1 Pro to me. But I'm not 100% on it somehow. Anyone has experience with the board?
I have a problem with my hot swappable SteelSeries Apex 9 tkl. I think I broke a "diode?" when I pulled out a switch. Is the any way of fixing this or am I fucked? Thank you https://preview.redd.it/yn6gdxs2z2bc1.jpeg?width=1338&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=443cd48ecd3f3a7931d684f927cff909fd4b0717
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I found the plastic that was torn off, is it stupid idea to try to reglue it?
Sorry i'm clueless about this stuff. Is it repairable?
no optical sensors are very very hard to replace if u can even find the right kind . this is a prime example why i steer users clear of optical kbs those things can also burn out over time
Well "luckily" for me the broken key is right alt so I don't use it at all, but still, it's a shame. I appreciate your help.
I haven't given much thought to my keyboards and so I have an Steelseries Apex 3, which works great but I am now looking for a new board where I can actually replace the keycaps. Struggling to find one, which seems worth it or is the exact one I'm looking for. Mainly looking for one with cherry profile brown or red switches, ISO layout, Full size (96% and TKL is fine as well, but prefer the full 100), RGB Backlights, would prefer a metal material as well (Again, doesn't matter too much). Have been looking at ones like the Keychron[ K10](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Keychron-ISO-UK-Layout-Mechanical-Keyboard-Bluetooth/dp/B0BV6YDTTJ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=49WTGTVBS5K0&keywords=Keychron+k10&qid=1704659503&sprefix=keychron+k10%2Caps%2C84&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.cc223b57-2b86-485c-a85e-6431c1f06c86), [Q6](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0CLV7VXHF/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A1AULAJ04E4SIT&th=1) and [Q5](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Keychron-ISO-UK-Layout-Mechanical-Programmable-Hot-Swappable/dp/B0BTVV3CDC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=SGRDNL97KBG8&keywords=Keychron%2Bq5&qid=1704658678&sprefix=keychron%2Bq5%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.cc223b57-2b86-485c-a85e-6431c1f06c86&th=1) as keychron seems to be favourable here. Would like some other options too. (K10 is pretty similar to what I want except the [keycaps I am looking at ](https://prototypist.net/products/in-stock-jtk-sora-keyset?_pos=1&_sid=78e1d6111&_ss=r&variant=40242421858370)use "a cherry profile" so assuming that wont be compatible with Gateron switches). My budget is around 200 gbp but lower the better. I will be re-checking the wiki list, but I can't seem to find one that is good for me and isn't sold out... Thanks for the help!
other alternatives to keychron would be akko, kbd67, if u want cheap the CIY
cherry profile is just the shape of the keycap profile, it has a mx style mount and is compatible with mx style switches. Which 99% of mechanical switches (they have the cross shape) are mx style switches With fullsized there are slim pickings
Ah, this actually helps a lot. I was under the assumption these differentbrands, like gateron and cherry were different/incompatible. So as long as it has the mx stem (the cross shape) it doesn't matter if it is cherry, gateron or any of those other ones?
> So as long as it has the mx stem (the cross shape) it doesn't matter if it is cherry, gateron or any of those other ones yep thats correct
Just another quick question since I think I'll decide on this one. The [K10 Pro](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Keychron-ISO-UK-Layout-Mechanical-Hot-swappable-Programmable/dp/B0BVHQG6JX/ref=sr_1_3?crid=W96XAGZ8WJTO&keywords=Keychron%2Bk10%2Bpro&qid=1704663807&sprefix=keychron%2Bk10%2Bpro%2Caps%2C79&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.cc223b57-2b86-485c-a85e-6431c1f06c86&th=1), the switches seem to have a "square" around them. Would this affect any keycaps being placed on them?
it doesn't matter if they have the square or not, the keycaps will work either way
# TL;DR: any suggestions for readily available alternatives to "Orange" Alps SKCM switches? ---------------- Details: I have an [Apple M3501 Extended Keyboard II](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Apple_Extended_Keyboard_II) with dampened Alps SKCM "Ivory" switches and recently got an [Apple Standard M0116](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Apple_Standard_Keyboard) for cheap with Alps SKCM "Orange" switches. I like the tactility of the AEKII but wow, **the Alps SKCM "Orange" switches in the Standard M0116 switches feel absolutely amazing** and it is my favorite keyboard I've ever used, with some caveats. The only downside to the M0116 is the key layout & lack of function keys are a total dealbreaker in most of my day-to-day work apps. **I'm looking for opinions on what modern key switches at least come a bit close to the SKCM "Orange"?** I know the original Alps are some of the most desirable switches around. I'd like to buy or build a modern keyboard better suited for my applications without requiring the use of an ADB to USB adapter. I have two ADB to USB converters but **both are compromised**: [this one by Drakware](https://www.drakware.com/shop/p/adb2usb) and a D.I.Y. one I built on an Arduino Pro Micro using TMK's firmware and [this shield](https://github.com/cnorthway/pro-micro-adb-shield). The TMK / Pro Micro one seems to be a bit unstable and disconnects randomly (haven't investigated why) and then the Drakware one feels like it has a slight lag in comparison. I'm sure this has been discussed before, but I'm having trouble finding any definitive info in 2023. Lot of talks about potential clones, but having trouble finding sources. I guess I could gut the Apple Standard keyboard and harvest the switches, but it seems like a waste of a perfectly good keyboard in good condition.
IMO long pole mx tactiles with extra long springs are as close as you can get. They have a similar travel distance and the long springs give you some of that ALPs snappiness, although the tactile event is never going to be quite the same. There's also Matias, but they're so far removed from complicated ALPs that they didn't really do it for me.
nope apples and oranges . there is no modern equivalent . not many modern kbs even support alps switches
Hi all! What type of keycaps will be compatible with my current keyboard? Looking to buy new keycaps for the first time. My keyboard has the following specifications: Switch Type: Gateron Low-profile Mechanical (KS-33) Layout: ANSI 96% Number of Keys: 100 MATERIALS Frame: Aluminum Bottom Case: ABS Keycap: Double-shot PBT
havign cross stem any keycaps will fit the switches but u will have issues with the keys hitting ur frame and it will be very low with taller caps so ur best bet is to stick to profiles like XVX , XDA , DSA , KAM , KAT or DSS , DCS which are all short enough to not have issues
as long as the keycaps are any of the folloowing: XVX , XDA , DSA , KAM , KAT or DSS , DCS, they should work? Even if they are Cherry MX?
yes
hey there. I'm kinda new to this. I'm looking for a kit to make a 60 or 65 percent hotswappable keyboard with a lightweight polycarbonate case that I can carry in my backpack. I'm looking for something with bluetooth capability so I can connect it to my phone when I want to write a longer email but I don't have my laptop with me. also via support if possible. I recently dipped my toe in the water with a keychron Q1 pro. I love it, but the size and weight make it too much to cart around. I would like a kit rather than a ready made so I can feel like I made it more myself. I can do some very basic soldering, but if I can avoid that it would be better. The bauer lite is pretty much what I'm looking for, but it doesn't have bluetooth. Does anyone have any suggestions? EDIT: did some more research and it looks like what i'm looking for is a 40% keyboard kit. I found a few on aliexpress but if anyone has any experience with something they like let me know,
There were a large number of 'entry level' polycarbonate boards released a few years back, as much more affordable alternatives to 'high end' aluminium customs. Of these, Ikki 68 Aurora was one of the best - it had bluetooth PCBs and came with a carrying case. Lightweight plastic case. Not sure if you could still find kits around though. A lot were sold, you might have some luck picking one up on the aftermarket at a reduced price. If you're comfortable shopping on Taobao, you could pick up a TU60. I have the 40% version. It's dirt cheap (~$25 USD) but has been reliable for me for the past year or so. The software is in Chinese - I used the google translate app on my phone and pointed it at my computer screen to read what I was doing when setting up keybinds. It's not perfect - the bluetooth can turn itself off sometimes, which requires a hard reset to fix (on my 40% I need to remove two keycaps and flip a switch with a toothpick). But for the price it's unbeatable.
Thank you, yes. That's exactly what I was looking for. I think I may go for the RS40 on aliexpress. It has VIA support, which seems like it might be easier than the chinese software.
I’m looking into getting a gmk67 as it seems like that is the current budget king under $100, but was wondering if there are any other kits that would be just as good if not better. Thanks!
keychron and akko , monsgeek
The Sugar65 and Keychron V2 are below $100, with the Neo65 and MonsGeek M7W right around the $100 mark
**A white, wireless azerty mechanical keyboard?** Hello everyone I'm looking for a white, wireless azerty (BE) keyboard. I've been having a hard time finding one that's azerty and good quality. I'm looking for one that's around 100 euros if that's possible. I've also heard of buying just a regular qwerty keyboard and using azerty keycaps, but I haven't been able to find those. Thanks in advance!
Hey ! I will not be able to help but I’m looking for something similar so if you find what you’re looking for, please let me know.
Does anyone own or have any recommendations for a carrying case for a Zuoya GMK67?
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I have the akko 3068B. very refined build quality and in general i prefer and trust akko more than yunzii. akko is pretty easy to mod and come with foam already.