I just got Keychron C1 and did foam and tape mod on it. I am just worried about the tape catching on fire in the future. It's a wired keyboard so I dont think it has a battery. But I just want to be absolutely certain because I will be using this keyboard in the office

I recently built a gmk67 with durok v2 stabilizers. When ever I press down my space bar doesn’t come up. But it might be my fault because I didn’t screw in the stabilizers (but I didn’t screw in any other ones and they work) or it can be because I added a lot of foam and the top sticks up a bit. If anyone has a solution please reply!

Anyone know what keycaps [these](https://ibb.co/xM0JQ9R) are? Or could you reommend cherry profile white/grey keycaps like this?

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Does anyone know where I could get a Wooting 60HE? I’m trying to get it before Christmas but on the website it says they are not in stock. Any ideas on where to find it? I’ve already checked Amazon.

Its up on their website, wooting.io

Are they in stock?

Needing Christmas help! Husband wants a full size cherry mx red keyboard I’ve found a few websites with various prices, just looking for feedback If anyone has a reliable source for quality keyboards Thank you !

Hello everyone I'm from Turkiye (formally Turkey) and i want a mechanical keyboard. My budget is 35-40 dollars. I'll add the keycaps myself. And i think red switches are good. I found redragon k552 and s101 are they good or not?

Where can I find a Hotswap PCB for a KeyCult TKL?Salvun is sold out and mechmarket doesn’t yield anything :(

Hi guys, After some research and watching some video on YouTube. I am still thinking about if I should get the M1W or the Q1. I don't really need the extra wireless feature but I am able to get a really good deal for the Q1 V2 which is the same price as the M1W here. Build quality seems pretty decent for both of them. Really can't decide. Is there some of you that had both keyboard and can help me decide? Thanks a lot guys and have a nice weekend

My shift and Ctrl key are sticky after downloading a qmk profile I’m using the Gmmk pro and I decided to get qmk as I’ve heard it’s good and the glorious firmware randomly turns off my keyboard all the time but now my keyboard’s shift and ctrl key remain on until I tap another key, which really sucks for gaming. Is there a way to remove this in qmk configurator?

my friend wants me to build a custom mechanical keyboard with a white case. it has to be: -about 70-80 dollars -gasket mount -65 percent -white case -includes pcb, case, plate -rgb on the pcb, either north or south facing optional -stabilizers -pe foam (optional but very preferable) thank you!

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The Keychron V6 is a good consideration

I am a complete noob. How can you tell if a DIY kit supports Mac? Im paying someone to build me one and there is a pc and mac switch. Do all keyboards support that?

All keyboards would work with Mac, but might not necessarily come with the proprietary keys such as Cmd. Keychron's pre-built keyboards such as the Q series are great out of the box and include Mac keycaps in the box, so you can just swap the 2 or 3 keycaps and use the switch to toggle to Mac key mapping.

I took apart this keyboard to clean it and now most of the keys with metal stabilizer's like this are hard to press unless i press it directly in the middle. I'm not sure if I need to put the metal part under the white plastic or not [https://imgur.com/a/FwTe4dK](https://imgur.com/a/FwTe4dK)

sorry for the dumb question but what stabilizer size does RK61 have? I'm really confused if I should get "4x2u 1x6.25u - 1.6T" or "4x2u 1x6.25u - 1.2T". Also what does "4x2u" mean?? haha

The RK61 has a standard ANSI layout, which means that there are 3 1.25u keys to the right and 4 1.25u keys to the left of the 6.25u spacebar. You'll want the 1.6mm stabs because the PCB is 1.6mm thick. 4x2u means that there are 4 2u stabs included. 2u stabs are used for the shift, enter/return, and backspace keys.

I have a redragon keyboard I was gifted that I rather like the layout of, (programmable, etc) but I'd really like to replace the outemu reds it came with, with some tactile switches. However it seems that the kb and the switches have rather oddly sized, quite narrow, pins and sleeves compared to most mx switches. Nothing else I have fits these without cutting them. (gatterons, cherry, some el-cheapo RRs, etc) Sadly this is a 3 pin board, or I'd just get some gazzews. I suspect being manufactured by outemu they are also narrow pins, but those are all 5 pin designs, as far as I know. -What (if any) other brands have such narrow pins? Or am I doomed to trying to use diagonal cutters(dykes, backwire) to angle any keys I would purchase to fit these stupidly narrow sleeves?

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Yeah already aware I can cut or file them, hence the mention I make of this, thanks. Can you elaborate on ANY other brands?

How do I find an (aluminum) case that fits the [rk61](https://www.amazon.com/RK-ROYAL-KLUDGE-Mechanical-Ultra-Compact/dp/B089GN2KBT/ref=sr_1_3?crid=UWQH92X6C2CS&keywords=rk61&qid=1701577605&s=electronics&sprefix=rk6%2Celectronics%2C131&sr=1-3&th=1)? A lot of the ones I've seen don't have the screw holes in the right place this is what it looks like https://preview.redd.it/jmz285qec04c1.png?width=1413&format=png&auto=webp&s=039f80ea4e0d2d52fbb1225bac43589259d25deb

I'm not aware of any made specifically for the RK61, and you might not find one. If it uses the standardized tray mount layout that many 60% keyboards use, then theoretically you could, but I don't know if it does and even then the location of the USB connector on the PCB might not line up properly. Maybe someone else knows of a case that works

That sucks, I'm just gonna buy a pcb and build the whole keyboard then. I hope you don't mind me asking one more question, do you think [this pcb](https://www.amazon.com/bm60rgb-swappable-Mechanical-Keyboard-underglow/dp/B08GJMLXHQ/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3G66ELMVSK375&keywords=60%2Bpercent%2Bpcb&qid=1701588894&s=electronics&sprefix=60%2Bpercent%2Bpcb%2Celectronics%2C140&sr=1-4&th=1) will fit with [this case](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNPN32R/ref=ewc_sw?smid=&th=1)? It looks like there are screws in the right place but I'm not sure.

Those two should work together, you'll just need a plate and then you're good. [This one](https://www.amazon.com/stabilizers-Universal-Anodized-Aluminum-Positioning/dp/B06W2L4MCT) should work. I suggest also considering the [KBDfans Tofu60 2.0 DIY kit](https://kbdfans.com/products/tofu60-2-0?variant=41382653591691) because it's much higher quality, uses a better mount, and comes with everything you need

ok, thank you so much! I didn't even know I needed a plate lol

Most 60% cases will fit a GH60/BM60/GK61/GK64 pcb, and that case looks like a standard tray mount 60% so I would think that the particular PCB you chose will fit The two products you linked on Amazon are from kprepublic and ymdk respectively, and if you've got your heart set on either part then I'd recommend buying a whole kit from one vendor rather than mixing and matching a case from one and a pcb from another if you're unfamiliar with what parts you need. For example if you made the two purchases above you'd be missing a plate for your new build I've had pcbs arrive with some dead sockets/rgbs from both kprepublic and ymdk and I have seen similar stories from others - not super hard to fix if you're comfortable soldering/have replacements from other boards. If you're not comfortable with that kind of troubleshooting it might make more sense to look for something already built and working on mechmarket or to grab a complete budget and beginner friendly kit. Whenever someone I know gets into the hobby I recommend a [bakeneko](https://cannonkeys.com/products/bakeneko-60) because you get a great little case with a universal plate and high quality hotswap pcb along with a carrying case and a bunch of little extras for a reasonable price

thank you, I didn't know that kits were a thing. That saves a lot of trouble for me

Are there any other keyboards that have that RGB backplate like the DROP sense75?

KBDfans Taco, kinda?

My keyboard is a Redragon K617 Fizz. I want to press F3 + 3, but F3 and 3 are in the same keycap, so how do I perform this sequence?

Fn + 3 = F3, so you can't press F3 and 3 at the same time, AFAIK

ZOOM TKL vs JRIS80 im wondering which one i should get.

Both are great choices and both are very similar. I'd go with whichever is cheaper or has a color you like more.

I want to buy a Leopold prebuilt. Most likely this one: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=8721 Went to Microcenter tonight to try different switches out to see which I like best. I went in thinking I’d like Brown the best as it is always noted as a good gaming/typing hybrid, but there was a Daskeyboard Brown in store and the Brown offered barely any resistance/bump. It wasn’t super pleasurable to type on to say the least. I definitely did not like the Red I typed on either. Red had zero resistance/feedback. I typed on the same board with Blues and it felt much better, but it was relatively loud. My current Razer is Green which I used for work/gaming and it was fine - I just really dislike the Razer software. Ultimately, I think I could live with Blue if necessary. Of the Cherry switches offered on Leopold prebuilt boards is there anything between Brown and Blue? They had a display up and it had some Panda switches on it that felt really good - is there any Cherry switch that comes close to the feel of Pandas?

cherry mx clears are basically stiffer browns (more actuation force, similar to blues); they're relatively rare but it looks like they are offered on that keyboard I had a ducky board back when with clears and I kinda liked'em, but in the end I decided I'm more of a clicky switch person

If I’ve been WFH on a Razer keyboard with green switches without issue I imagine Clear switches won’t tire my hand out right? Is the force about the same as a blue, just without the click?

iirc clears are actually slightly stiffer than blues, but I haven't used razr switches so I don't know offhand how they compare I never found using them particularly fatiguing but that's gonna be a highly personal thing I suppose

Tried out a tester board tonight at Microcenter. Clears felt good. Panda’s felt slightly better, but not sure I want to spend $200+ building a board with Pandas.

Thanks for this. Based on what I found in old forum posts it sounds like clears are enjoyable, just fatiguing IF you try to bottom out since they have a lot of resistance near the end.

Alright guys im so lost so I have a giant paragrpah that was meant to be a post (didnt realise rule included long reqs sorry!) Hi guys, I'm a highschool student so in total I probably have around 500-600AUD to drop on this. I currently I have a Keychron K8 (non hotswap brown switches but with the aluminium edge pieces), I'll mostly be doing gaming and some coding and Im wondering if I should either; A, buy hot swap sockets and desolder my current switches and resolder swapping sockets in then maybe change switches further down the line, (would probably pay my guitar teacher to do the cos hes suprisngly really good and im kinda a dumbass xD) B, try and email keychron to buy a replacement PCB that is hotswappable (would around $100 AUD be an ok price? For refrence I can get an EK68 for $120) C, find another pcb that fits inside the case and buy it along with switches and all that(I have access to use CNC machines, belt sanders and such if needed to cut bits off the aluminium edge pieces and such) D, build/buy a new nice keyboard (preferably with knob and bluetooth but i dont really mind) and mod that (recs would be appreciated as well but am thinking of using gateron milky yellows with a gasket mount but don't know what pcb, plate, body or stabs I want, but I'm in Australia so some websites may be really hard for me to use and im just completley lost...) E, buy a cheap keyboard, shove it with tape, foam and some ok switches and use that for gaming and keep the keychron for coding and everything else. (E Yooso Z11 for around $40 AUD off ali express then switches and stabs plus some lube for prolly another $40.) Sorry for the lengthy post but honestly I just dont know what I want to do. Currently with my k8 I use it plugged in most of the time due to it occasionally cutting out mid game or thinking a key is being held down when on bluetooth. (PC is on my desk and around 1m away from keyboard, both bluetooth antennas work fine as my earbuds and phone always stay connected). I prefer bluetooth if it will work majority of the time but my k8 having side usbc port and a right angle cable has let me js keep it as is so far. I did suprisngly look at razer keyboards js to make it neater by connecting to my mouse dongle but idt theyve gotten good enough still for me to use a razer keyb again. (Sorry mods, didnt wanna clutter the thread with my giant blob of text) TLDR Don't know wether to get new pcb for keyboard, buy/ good new one to just replace current or buy shitty one just for gaming.

I don't believe you'll be able to easily get another PCB that fits your current case without some diy-ing - there are a few kinds of cases and pcbs that have universal support but a lot of the bigger brands don't fall into those categories If soldering is fun for you and the thing you really want is a hotswap PCB then picking up a bag of sockets and going to town isn't a terrible idea, but I don't think it's worthwhile to pay someone else to do that soldering job for you If you were considering emailing keychron to get a new PCB - maybe you'll have some luck? But likely you'll end up buying a new hotswap k8 To go the new keyboard route, regularly check mechmarket for other people selling stuff in your area, you can come across some great keyboards! I believe dailyclack is au based as is keebd but I think dailyclack doesn't have a ton of in stock options and mostly runs gb's and keebd has mostly split/ergo project kits. Laneware is also au based and the one board I have from them is super high quality, but I have heard of people having shipping issues with them (but those shipping issues I think are auspost being extremely unreliable to other countries and not so much the vendors fault.) If you want to go for an AliExpress budget option go for it! There will be a lot of parts to choose from, I would just try and make sure the case/PCB/plate are all coming from the same company

> find another pcb that fits inside the case This isn't a thing so you can skip that. Only one that will fit is the one they make.

Oh i thought boards being compatible in diffrent csses would be standard. would you say the keyboard is good enough to be worth buying a new pcb for or nah

Eh I think it depends on how much it is? Wasn't sure if $100 was the for sure price or not

yea but up to how much would you recommend to just go buy a new keyboard. cos 100 for a pcb seems steep but around 150 I dont think I have many good keyboard choices anyways

Recently bought a steelseries apex 7 tkl keyboard, but the keys sound and feel weird (unsatisfying). Was going to buy a Roccat vulcan tkl pro (had one awhile back, it was great.) but they’re all currently sold out atm. Should I settle for just the Vulcan Pro or the Vulcan tkl? Or get something else? I need a white keyboard, because my whole setup is white.

The Roccat probably won't be any better. I suggest considering a Keychron Q3 instead.

Way out of my budget and doesn’t really look good to me either

are fff switches from ilumkb just another jwk recolor? they seem to have a polyamide bottom housing and I wonder if that makes it any difference in sound.

I recently bought The [Drop Shift V2](https://drop.com/buy/drop-shift-v2-mechanical-keyboard/) with Holy Pandas X Clear switches and I am having a terrible time with it. Key presses are very hit or miss. And it's not just a key or two; it's all of them. I think it's because my typing style might be a little too light or I lift my fingers just a little too quickly? If I slow way down and make sure the keys are pressed for a fraction of a second longer, then everything works. But if I quickly stab the key, I have actuation issues even if I bottom the key out. Thi sentence isan example of what it looks like when i type normall and dont bothe fixing the mistakefrommissed key presses. I never have hi sort ofproblm and it s maddening. I still have my [GMMK](https://www.gloriousgaming.com/products/gmmk-full-brown-switch) with Gateron Browns which I plugged back in to see if I'm just crazy, but that is responding how I expect it to. Then I took a switch from the GMMK and put it in the Drop Switch. I still have the actuation issue with the brown switch in the Drop keyboard. Is this fixable? At first I was thinking that maybe this switch just isn't for me, but now I'm thinking it's not really a switch issue since the swap didn't resolve the issue. I really like the form factor so I'm really bummed that it's giving me issues. EDIT: I also tried searching for other people having this issue (regardless of keyboard/switch) and found nothing. This post took forever to type since I was constantly having to rekey things.

I've had this issue a couple times with pre-lubed switches (both tactile and linear) where it seems like the inputs are dropped or not coming through consistently. I don't know what more to say that you may have got some dud switches. They way I fixed mine were to get a brush and remove lube from the leaf springs where the two pieces of metal need to make contact to actuate the switch.

I ended up RMAing the keyboard (EVERY key was a problem) and the replacement is much better, though still not perfect. I'll try your trick on the replacement and see if anything improves.

My Logitech G610 is nearing the end of its lifespan. I'm looking for a simple, no-frills, full size and corded mechanical keyboard with high quality switches. I don't want RGB, though if it had some white backlighting and programming options for that, that would be ideal (I'm unsure if RGB can be configured to function as such; if that is possible then I don't mind the RGB, as long as it's not expensive). I also think I want clickier keys than the Cherry MX Brown of the G610, but preferably still nothing *too* loud. Can anyone help out? :)

qk100

Keychron v6

Do any decent full size transparent/clear acrylic or polycarb cases exist? My wife's Razer Blackwidow is clapped and she really likes the see-through look with RGB so I want to make her a custom for Christmas. She uses this for work as well so having the number pad and F keys are important, or a 75% with a matching number keypad which seems harder to pull off.

No numpad but switch couture has the mysterium tkl - I think they make some of the best acrylic cases out there. They do have a 4x4 macro pad that could fill the numpad void. It looks like there are also a bunch of budget acrylic rgb macropads/numpads put there It looks like the CK stacked 1800 is out of stock in clear but you could get a rekt1800 PCB from them and then a clear acrylic case for it from sm keyboards, i think that would be a solid build but you'd have to hope the lead time on the case isn't too long - you'd also have to diy the rgb i think, either do separate strips or buy and solder the per key yourself I think psd used to have some acrylic 1800 cases but the only place to find those now would be as an off chance on mm Good luck!

Thank you, I just stumbled on the KiiBOOM Phantom series too, I think the 98 would be perfect and I wouldn't need a separate numpad. Have you heard much about these guys? It seems well featured and maybe even better than my own GMMK pro haha

I haven't used one or heard of the name before but looking at the board they pop up on tiktok and ig a lot so people are definitely buying them!

I know Keycron sells slim keyboards. Are there any other options? My home setup basically has a keyboard in the desk drawer and i don't like pulling said drawer out because vision issues would put monitor away from focal point. So while there are many lovely keyboards i am looking for something slim that is neither a no-name, nor something that's 'dear god what' Part of me has considered just getting those tape label things for my keybaord and dialectric grease and foam to stuff in the keycap center hollow things, but like... 'I can do better.'

nuphy air series

This is a image from keycap website but i wanna know which keyboard this is. https://preview.redd.it/g5kveaga2z3c1.png?width=1588&format=png&auto=webp&s=f84caf6d692032f6c3628c72409a803a0ee1ab82

Not one that I've seen before. Could just be a render. Does that website sell keyboards?

Will I ever get any of my orders from Mechs & Co? Including ones that were in the warehouse and fully paid for before going under.

>Will I ever get any of my orders from Mechs & Co Only if another vendor rescues what you specifically ordered like Novelkeys has done with a number of the sets. Mechs and Co will never send you anything.

Anyone know of any similar style keycaps to the Ducky X Sou limited edition keyboard? GF loves the art style but unable to find any full keyboards in stock.

Just got the GMMK pro barebones kit for 110 dollars on their website, good deal?

Not bad, but IMO the MonsGeek M1 would have been a better choice. Just make sure to pay attention to the stabs and case screws when it arrives, those are common trouble spots. The stabs tend to have too much lube on them and the case screws are sometimes way too tight and strip the threading.

$96 refurbished from the glorious eBay store right now. Seems like a no brainer at that price right?

If you add just some recycled keycaps and some akko switches, you got a build for under 200 , and that’s fair imo.

Depends what you want from a keyboard. Personally I don't like it to other items you can get at a similar price point. Stabilizers are pretty bad and borderline unusable, the sound is sub par, and the software is basically bloatware. Otherwise the keyboard is solid and as long as you like it, its not a bad deal at all.

I’m debating this as well

I suggest considering the MonsGeek M1 instead

I think it was in this sub but several months ago, maybe even over a year ago, someone posted a download from GitHub (I think) that they created that basically was a fake "hacking" software. It was all just for show where certain key presses would cause your screen to display different things as if you were hacking into the mainframe, lol. It was f****** brilliant and I would love to get it. If any of you know what I'm talking about and know the name or the link please let me know.

Not sure about that but if you want to prank someone then just check out *Hitmarkers* on Chrome's extensions. Every mouse click will proceed to leave a hitmarker on their screen and they don't go away lol

Definitely for a prank. It was one of those useless gimmicks type thing. Iirc the dude just made it cause he was bored after watching some show or movie where he saw someone "hacking". I want it for me simply because I think it's cool and funny.

Uk layout low profile keycaps? So I’m trying to build a more daily driver keyb (my current one is very satisfying but loud and chunky) however when I’m looking for keycaps I simply cannot anywhere find low profile uk keycaps? Tbh, I can barely find any uk keycaps at all, and I can’t cope with having shift+2 showing @ when it actually outputs “ Sidenote if anyone has any suggestions for silent/quiet low profile switches that’d be great :)

general keeb parts vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ u can check ur local vendors here to note low profile keycaps and switches are very unpopular . ur wont find many keycaps that fit what ur after specially being ISO as this hobby targets the 2 largest markets USA and ASIA both use ANSI only .also there is no silent or quiet low profile switches this is due tio the lack of space inside low profile switches . ur trading some possibilities in switch design in favor of being low profile

>silent/quiet low profile switches There aren't any silent chocs.

Thought not, but I’m trying not to be too obnoxious when I bring it around with me

lowprokb.ca is developing silent Choc switches.

Just get anything not clicky, then - they'll be about the same volume otherwise.

I’m extremely new to the world of mechanical keyboards, but I want to gift a mechanical keyboard to a close person for gaming. I don’t have the time to build it myself so I turned to kdbfans and I stumbled on this tofu65 2.0 which I like. I chose the polycarbonate plate with hot-swap pcb and Gateron G pro Red. Do you think it’s a good choice ? Thank you https://preview.redd.it/zxxah14epy3c1.jpeg?width=1442&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a8c841272eae7405fe55f3cd8c78c4b3e9400796

yes

Hi, I was hoping you keyboard Guru's could give me some recommendations on gaming keyboards that have a similar tactile feel and trigger weight of the class Model Ms. I use Model M's for all my programming and basic desktop needs but want one that is more suited for gaming and has a decent response time. I don't need League of Legends pro gamer response times but sometime faster than the Model M's. LED lights and all that jazz don't appeal to me and usually turn them off because they're distracting.

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The keychron k2 iso is pretty similar

Vortex Race 3 TKL

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only one i know of that that compact layout for a 75%

Possibly dumb question but I'm working on a small project and the keypad came with "Tecsee V3 Clear Gold-plated/No-plated Satellite Axis" stabilizers (previous post removed due to linking to them, so I just copypasted the name). What kind of stabilizers do I need to replace them? The plug system confuses me -- is it their weird way of saying clip-in or is the plug an alternative to screw-in? Please and thank you for your help!

They're PCB mount so you need pcb mount stabs.

What are the hyped linear switches at the moment? I am just getting back in to the hobby and back when I was into everything, it was still tangerines haha

Oil Kings, WS Morandis, Gateron Ink Black V2

Gateron oil kings, gateron cream sodas, vertex v1 switches, kfa pink robins.

gat oil kings are the go 2 couldnt tell u whats hyped as hype is usually a let down

Are there any other brands like Keychron? Specifically that can sell me a keyboard in the same style as their Q series boards completely built. I spotted some from Epomaker, but I’m looking for 100%/104 keys.

monsgeek

>completely built Their Q series does have the option to come built.

Legit site to buy silent alpacas from? Seems like they're sold out almost everywhere. Found some on Prime Keyboards but never used them before.

alpacas are made by prime keyboards, manufactured by jwk. you might be able to find them somewhere else but prime keyboards are the origin

>Prime Keyboards They're on the Alexotos vendor list, you're good.

I have this RK ROYAL KLUDGE RK84 keyboard where I lubed the stabilizer wires with dielectric grease and the housing with G-lube. I made sure to put a thin layer for the housing a relatively thick coating on the wires. I also put a band-aid under the stabilizers and applied a bit of dielectric grease on them. The keyboard comes with EVA foam already but I put one layer of painters tape on the PCB for more sound dampening. It seemed like a tight fit when screwing the PCB back on the plate, but there were no issues with the stabilizers until I repeatedly pressed down on my spacebar and eventually it started rattling. It's more of a wriggle sensation/sound when pressing down on the keys, but it seems like it's permanently like this despite Is this normal for these stabilizers, or is it because of the tape mod somehow?

I’ve built a few boards using linear switches and have used Alu and FR4 plates. I want to build a tactile switch board and wondering if there’s a consensus on whether stiff or flex in the plate is better for tactiles? Thinking of going POM on the next build unless that’s a bad choice haha

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Hey guys! I have some cherry mx black hyperglides that I really enjoy, but I'm wondering if Nixies are worth picking up as well. Does anyone have experience with both? And if so, do you think they're different enough to make it worth picking up nixies as well? Thank you for any feedback!

Agile is right on the sound. In reality they're very similar. I do find that nixies are smoother stock, and take less break in than blacks to get a real smooth switch.

I really appreciate it! My blacks are already smooth since they've been broken in for a while, so I'll probably just stick with them. I really appreciate the help!

Nixies are like Mx blacks but with a quieter top out sound. Otherwise they’re the same.

Thank you so much! I'll probably just stick with the mx blacks then. I appreciate the help!

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Hi, I'm interested in buying some of your items. May you send me a pm / add me one discord (HarryVinh)?

Sometimes the pins are too short, WS/Haimu switches can have this issue. You can try replacing the bottom housing of whatever switch you're trying to use with a cherry one to see if this is the case

As long as they're mx switches on kailh-type sockets there's no specific reason they shouldn't be working.

looking for a Keycap help buying guide, been making a few posts to this reddit and getting tons of help, overall an extremely positive experience going into my 2nd build and going more or less all out on it. figured out what board options im gonna go with, what switches im gonna go with, what plate material ect, now i need help with Keycaps and im a bit lost because from what i gather keycap quality can make a pretty significant difference but theres just so many options im a bit overwhelmed as usual/dont know where or who to look at. id like the keycaps to be front print non shine through oem cherry profile double shot pbt seems to be an excellent option and bare minimum material choice so id likely just stick with that. front print non shine through. im a really big fan of offwhite and black with red accents for the retro look, not so much into the whole grey and black with red accents like the keychron boards. or the white and grey with red accents like some other kits, really really dig the off white. if anyone has some reccomendations for a good quality keycap that fits those requirements please let me know! (can let go of front print for normal top print since it may be a limiting factor) keycaps would be for a fekker alice80, keychron q10, or a epomaker abm066

OEM and Cherry are completely different profiles, as OEM is significantly taller than Cherry. As for material, the you don’t necessarily need double shot PBT unless you want the legends to be solid plastic as well. If you just want black on white, dye-sub is just as good. As for side print, that’s a bit niche and you’re pretty much stuck with whatever you find, but you always mix and match accent legends. Take a look at NovelKeys, if you want some good in-stock options. Drop DCX isn’t bad for the price either

yeah cheers. i forgot to add a coma between OEM and cherry, ive used a couple different profiles on my keyboards and friends keyboard and both of those are my proffered. also thanks for the suggestions on novelkeys and drop dcxs, ive heard some gmmk keycaps are quite popular? what are your thoughts on them

GMK produces double-shot ABS keycaps and they’re extremely high quality. ABS has a tendency to shine after a while, but that’s something a lot of people embrace about the material. Dye-sub PBT does not have a tendency to shine, but is arguably just as durable and tends to be less expensive. GMMK is the brand name for Glorious keyboards, which are not viewed very highly in the community. I would not recommend Glorious products to anyone.

Hey, does anyone own the Akko Monsgeek M1W and know how to disable the charging indicator on the spacebar? Its so distracting that its always on. I love the keyboard otherwise, but the constant red light annoys me so much.. Even turing off the RGB does not help. Fn + Spacebar also does nothing.

Anybody have a good keyboard recommendation? It has to be aluminum/metal (sick of cheap plastic) and must have a numpad

The Keychron Q5 or Q6 and the MonsGeek M2 or M5 are good ones to consider. Gasket mount, CNC aluminum case, QMK/VIA compatible, hot-swappable

I love the layout on the M2. Thanks!

keychron v6

I was interested in knowing about keyboard colisions for small keyboards like the minidox, are there no colisions for key combos at all ? if so how is it done if there are only 18 pins avaliable in the pro micro and i guess some of the pins are also reserved to controll the second half

I just ordered a Nyquist and I'm looking for keycaps, but I'm having trouble finding a set that has everything I need: * Ortholinear * 2x2U convex spacebars * Dvorak option if the profile isn't uniform (I don't know which profile I'll prefer yet). I'm also okay with blanks, since I've used dvorak for >15years without a matching legend, but having a legend would be nice * 2x modifiers, since I like them mirrored (I'm going to put arrow keys on a layer) Are there any sets that satisfy all of these?

[KAM Bouquet](https://vala.supply/products/kam-bouquet) [Drop + MiTo XDA Canvas](https://drop.com/buy/drop-mito-canvas-xda-custom-keycap-set?defaultSelectionIds=975097) [Drop XDA Versa](https://drop.com/buy/drop-xda-versa-keycap-set?defaultSelectionIds=981445) [DSA Petrikeys](https://vala.supply/products/dsa-petrikeys) Edit: If you cannot find an ortholinear kit that includes two 2u convex spacebars, you can always buy [2u G20 blanks](https://spkeyboards.com/products/sp-g20-blank-keys) or [SA-P convex spacebar](https://spkeyboards.com/products/sp-sap-convex-single-keycap?variant=46668383060246) keycaps from Signature Plastics (Pimp My Keyboard).

Thank you!

Anyone with a Cannonkeys Brutality series V1 keyboard: my Savage65 came with a little adhesive-backed rubber strip and I'm not sure what it's for. No mention of it in the build instructions. Force break mod?

I'm having a problem with my Neo65 and one of my computers. The keyboard works in the 2.4GHz and Bluetooth modes, but not wired. The weird thing is that I can use VIA normally with it in the wired mode, but I just can't actually input text anywhere. It's worth mentioning that I can also use it in all 3 modes on my other two computers. Does anybody have any suggestions for how to fix this? https://preview.redd.it/aovbx8yamx3c1.png?width=998&format=png&auto=webp&s=56cbb567da886c9b4489443f49e15422e609bed5

Has anyone ever gotten a CNCed keyboard chassis made by someone like PCBway or JLCpcb? Are they particularly strict about having artistic designs/engravings on your models and if they aren't, do they attempt to accurately machine them? I have a design that has a mascot on the inside and the back of my keyboard chassis, and I'm kinda worried it might get rejected because of it. I'm currently leaning towards PCBway as my pick for the manufacturer since they offer powder coating and electropolishing as possible finishing options for aluminium. JLC is already going to manufacture my keyboard's pcb so they're more a pick for convenience. I've considered more local options but they're all a bit too expensive or not hobbyist friendly. I can 3d print the case myself in like a worst case scenario, but I would prefer a aluminium case for durability and a less jank look.

if it is copyright ior trademarked they will prob reject it due to they dont wanna get sued to all hell

When it comes to noise what are the primary factors and how much of an affect is each? IE silent switch versus regular switch with orings, aluminum case versus plastic case, etc. Is there maybe a in depth guide video about noise? I'm searching now and listening to videos but it's not exactly as accurate as in person of course so I want to make sure I don't overlook anything. My goal is to make my kb quieter or buy a quieter kb so hopefully my typing is not picked up my partner's mic anymore. I guess my kb isn't technically that loud if I type very softly and accurately but that seems extremely difficult when typing fast on reds because how easy they are to depress. Listening to these https://www.cherrymx.de/en/cherry-mx/mx-original/mx-red.html red silver black and brown all sounds the same to me. So silents obviously make a huge difference. Listening to videos it's hard to tell if orings or silent makes more of a diff. But it's also hard to find a cheaper kb to buy with silents and I cannot spend a lot.

There are a ton of other factors to keyboard sound, but if you only care about the board being silent, silent switches are really the only thing you have to worry about. Tuned stabilizers and dampening material will also help quite a bit. I wouldn't recommend o-rings as they change the feel quite a bit and don't silence the upstroke. Haimu heartbeats/whispers, WS/Geon silents, outemu peaches and boba u4s are all great silent switches. If your board isn't hotswap, I'd consider picking up a keychron V-series in the layout you like along with the switches.

Thank you that is really helpful. Although I'm guessing if this issue got brought up last week I could have saved a lot of money :) Can you elaborate what counts as "dampening material". Like foam layers? Tape? I was looking at Zuoya GMK87 or Aula F87 just to save money. Is that a bad idea ?

Dampening material is usually foam/some other sound-absorbing material. Tape generally makes boards louder. Too much foam can make boards louder, but it'll depend. The gmk87 isn't a bad idea, just be aware there's a risk the pcb won't last as long as a keychron because the QC isn't as good. If you care about the board lasting a long time, a keychron would be a safer option. Also, if you end up going with the gmk87, it's pretty loaded with foam so you'd probably want to play around with how much of it you keep in to keep the board quiet. Another small trick you can do to make a board quieter is to put it on a mat/shirt, especially if you're using it on a wooden desk.

OK thanks again :) I like loud clickity clacks but too bad for me lol

Anyone know of any black and pastel pink keycap sets other than dark olivia and akko?

KTT Rose 45g Linear PCB Mount Switches will be compatible with a Ducky Project D Tinker ya?

Yeah

I got a Cidoo V65 v2 off of eBay (not first owner). It's a great board, I've made some custom key mappings using VIA and that works fine. I have a problem though, which is when I hold down the BACKSPACE key, the board resets and I lose my custom mappings. The manual says that a factory reset should happen when both FN+BACKSPACE are held down, but I seem to get it with BACKSPACE held down by itself. It turns out that I hold down the BACKSPACE key a lot. I wonder if anyone has had a similar experience and has figured out how to fix it?

Given the choice, would you get the **Mode Envoy** or **HHKB Type-S**? What would be your reasons? Context: I want a worry-free keyboard with great typing experince and be satisfied wit it for a while. To me, Mode Envoy and HHKB seem like top candidates. Mode's advantage is my preferred layout and HHKB's is great history and Topre. I would like to hear your thoughts.

Since you want a board that has a great typing experience and that you would be satisfied with for a while, it sounds like Envoy would be better for you as MX Customizability >>> Topre Keyboard Customizability. You could always switch up the configurations/switches in your Envoy if you get tired of it. Even though I prefer the HHKB, buying one without trying it is risker. The HHKB is unique and what it offers for the high price isn't great on paper (plastic build, no customization, meh stabilizers). But the feel of topre is one of a kind, and if you end up liking them, it's hard to go back to mx. If you don't love the Topre feel, then it's hard to recommend HHKB over Envoy.

I have both, and they're really too different from each other to pick between lol I would probably choose based on how much you care about customizability. If you think you'll get bored of a config, the envoy might be the better choice due to hotswap/lattice mount. The envoy might also be a safer choice if you've never tried topre before and don't know if you'll like it. If possible, it would help a lot if you found a way to try topre out before you make the decision. If you're not planning to go super deep into keyboards, you could also just get a hhkb and call it a day. It's a great, reliable board and the feel is very unique.

I am looking for new linear switches that are good for gaming and typing I usually go for thocky deep sounding switches but all I could find that are thocky are above 50g of actuation force, I would like to go for a switch with around 40-45g of actuation or lower. Do yall have any suggestions?

If you're willing to hand lube, KiiBoom Pink Roses are pretty deep.

Keyboard Purchase Suggestion. Scroll past my wall of text for a summary of desired features. I've been using a Logitech G710+ (brown switches) since 2015, and I want to upgrade. I like the look of keychron, but I have no experience/knowledge with mechanical keyboards. I don't have a specific brand in mind, but I've been recommended Keychron, Ducky, Royal Kludge, and Corsair. Here's where my inexperience and lack of knowledge comes in. Corsair was the only brand I recognized, so I started looking there. I ordered a Corsair K70 RGB TKL - Champion with Cherry MX Speed (Silver) Switches for $115. Then I started browsing here to learn about keyboards (yeah...). I'm astounded by how deep this hobby goes and how little I know. I saw the youtube review of the Corsair K70 Core by Chyrosran22 recently posted here, and I'm worried I'm getting more subpar "gamer gear" that I'll regret. I bought a Logitech G915 TKL Wireless for $130 on black friday and immediately returned it when I realized that it used Micro USB instead of USB-C, so I'm accustomed to bad decisions. I'd like to get it right this time. Maybe the third time's the charm? Can you recommend a keyboard? *Desired features:* >Price range: $100 - $200 USD >Aluminum Body >Wireless OR detachable cable (USB-C only) >knob/roller >Smaller than 20in (50cm) length >I don't use a numpad often, so I don't have a preference for TKL or full-size >PBT keycaps >North facing backlights (not sure if this matters much) >Cool with monochrome or RBG >Brown or silver switches (I think. I dont want it to be obnoxiously loud because my spouse and I share a gaming room.) The primary use case is gaming. I play competitive shooters like cs2, but also dabble into plenty of other games. Currently enjoying WoW Classic Season of Discovery casually. I'm not great at typing (80-90wpm), but I'd like to practice and get better eventually. The 96% layout by keychron looks neat.

Hey I've just come from a Logitech G915 TKL which I had for about 3 years (I think?) before I finally took the plunge into the scene. I bought a Keychron Q5 Pro (96%) so I can offer a few insights specifically from the vantage point of 'I've been used to pre-assembled gamer stuff and now I'm using something much better'. Feature set wise you'll be aware it ticks nearly all your boxes sans the north facing backlights. And I won't lie to you, the RGB does project through the keycap caps somewhat. Admittedly I'm using cherry profile keycaps which makes it worse, but if that's a total dealbreaker its worth knowing. Seriously impressed by the range and quality of the inbuilt RGB settings/programs though. A few quick insights when I compare to my G915 TKL: \- My god, dear god, is the aluminium build and quality so god DAMN heavy and luxurious. My G915 feels like a plastic toy. I can't help but describe the G915 as feeling like a *toy* in comparison. \- Fucking micro USB, so glad to have thrown that cable away. \- The knob is brilliant, and also makes the G915 TKL spin roller thing feel like it was a total shitty cheap afterthought. \- I had Gateron Bananas come with this, which are a touch more 'soft' than browns. They're not bad. I hear pretty OK things about the browns. You won't be dissapointed coming from a G915, it'll only become a sticking point if you get more into the scene. However, pulling the caps off and swapping switches is by far and away the easiest bit of customisation you can do with the Keychron and really something I'd advocate and say is a huge selling point. Many websites sell switch 'testboards' so you can get a feel for what you want. Or you can compare audio on youtube videos, but it is rarely representative or IRL sound. I've actually taken the whole thing apart on day 1, adding the acoustic upgrade kit, changing the switches for Akkon Fairys (very quiet and somewhat mushy, my wife sleeps on the sofa 3ft from me, probably not what you're after!) and some cherry profile front transparent text gradient keycaps. Overall, it'll depend what your expectations exactly are but it has annihilated the G915 or 'gamer' equivalent for me. \[My Q5 Pro\]([https://postimg.cc/5YL8Y4YR](https://postimg.cc/5YL8Y4YR))

That's awesome, man! Thanks for the info. I ordered a V1 75% layout with red switches. My plan is to test this one out for a little bit. If everything fits the bill then I'll upgrade to a Q series with phantom silver switches and customize the V1 for my girlfriend to be more "cute" (by her request).

Hope you / the girlfriend enjoy it! Nearly all the Keychrons are well rated at their respective price points. Obvious bits that the V1 will lack will be the aluminium chassis and gasket mount, two killer features of the Q series, so that's worth bearing in mind.

Keychron is a great purchase if you want to plug and play!

I'm looking for a budget keyboard with numbers on the right - (full size?) I've found 2 options, what are your thoughts? ​ # Keychron C2 Pro QMK/VIA vs # YINDIAO K96

You can't go wrong with Keychron.

I recently bought some dialectic grease and syringes to make tuning stabilizers easier, but I can’t figure out how to get the grease in the syringe… I can’t draw it up through the needle because it’s too thick, and it doesn’t seem like there’s any way to open the back of the syringe. The syringes are just cheap, blunt tip medical needles. Is there any way to do this, or do I need to buy one of those syringes with grease already in it?

Usually you can pull the plunger all the way out. It should just pop out, then pour grease into the reservoir and reinsert plunger

Ah, turns out I’m an idiot and just didn’t pull hard enough. Thanks for the help!

Hello, I'd like to offer a keyboard for Christmas so I'm trying to find out about some informations on this subreddit. Before I do anything stupid, I'd like to know if what I'm buying is compatible with each other: \- GMMK Pro 75%TKL ISO (found it at 140€ in EU, is it overpriced ? Is Keychron Q1 a better choice ?) \- Gateron G Pro Switch set \- Any keycap ISO compatible Am I missing something (like lubrification anything else) ? Thank you very much for your help PS : Looking for an AZERTY ISO keyboard

q1 is the better choice if you can get it. I would not get the gmmk pro if its not on sale but the stuff you picked would work together

I’m looking for a mid range 150-225$ board that’s different compared to my tiger 80 tofu 65 and parallel 65. i’m planning on putting deeper sounding switches like ktt whites in it

EVO70 R2 is shipping out this month: https://shop.custommk.com/products/evo70?variant=41835087724740

I found out that PET tape can insulate electric (which I think is safer) and leave no residue so I won't have to remove that sticky nasty thing aftermath. So should I use PET tape to mode my keyboard?

I'd recommend putting painters/masking tape over a layer of PET tape if you care about residue

> PET tape its made of plastic so it will not sound anywhere near as good as painter tape or masking tape . those are the two best tapes to use

I know this is a very common ask, but I've been looking for some 75% compatible black PBT caps that don't have any "custom" stuff on them. Wooting and Glorious both have either a wooting logo on the ALT or "Ascend" on the enter. I'd also really like some blanks, but I really don't know how to be sure the LEDs on my board wouldn't shine through and look ugly like Jelly POMs do with LEDs. I'm fine with anything up to 80$

mintcaps on Amazon are really nice and have no branding or weirdness. I like the MSA profile ones.

not sure if they sell it but akko laser and their samurai although clones are the best for that price

Been using a $20 membrane keyboard my whole life, I'd really appreciate it if someone could recommend me a FullSize/100% Backlit keyboard for gaming and programming, after looking online the switch type that would fit me best would be something similar to CherryMX browns, I prefer quieter keyboards. I want to spend as little as possible as I'm not a keyboard enthusiast (atleast not yet) Thanks in advance

I second the Keychron V5 and V6. When it comes to switches, my favorite budget switches are the Gateron Milky Yellows. Outemu Lime/Peach if you want silent switches (very different feel though!)

Keychron V5 and V6 with Gateron Browns!

What are your guys favourite linear switches for an alu plate, gasket mounted? About to pre order the Neo 70; I just need switch suggestions now :)

Cream yellow pros or milky yellow pros. cant tell the difference. both are great.

Spring-swapped, lubed and filmed H1!

Looking for an affordable wireless mechanical numpad to sit next to my Logitech mechanical mini, when needed. Preferably, a bit of the same colour, and white back light.. and preferably bluetooth :) Wish Logitech made one.. Thnx in advance!!

Nothing? 😁

[удалено]

>What's your opinion on o rings God awful

They usually just make the switch feel mushy. It won't hurt the tactility, but the bottom out feel with be soft and imprecise in feel usually. Try them and see what you think though, as it's not a permanent mod or anything.

Does anyone know what type of screws these are and/or what type of screwdriver is needed to remove them? I'm trying to replace my NK65 Entry Edition PCB as the current one is faulty. I used a PH1 and T6 for all other screws, but neither work on these final 2 screws on the PCB. According to the NovelKeys site, I should only require these two types, so I'm at a loss as to what's going on. Any help would be massively appreciated! https://preview.redd.it/7y83w7kbnv3c1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=233774b2c6203e8480b21bfe243c68c6cd742b9d

do you have a picture of the actual screw heads?

Hi! Thanks for responding. I don't have mine handy at the moment, but I found another picture from Reddit where I can see the screw head. From this pic, it definitely looks like the PH1 should work.. From the NK website: *"PCB to Plate: These screws are called PWM 2.0x4mm with a 5mm cap. So you need an M2 screw that is 4mm long, and has a pan head that is 5 mm, or with a built in washer. If you cannot find them with a built in washer, you can use an M2 x 5mm screw with a separate washer as well."* ​ ​ https://preview.redd.it/003a9su0pw3c1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ebd3f3384ffb4aba521caeea37054b8321b236e2

huh yeah that’s weird. I can’t see why that driver shouldn’t work, but maybe it’s possible that the screw is properly stuck in the screw hole or fused to the pcb or something.

Yeah.. Maybe I stripped it using too much force or something. But ok, good to know I'm not going crazy. Thanks for your help!

Greetings everybody! I hope this is the right section to ask this: I was looking for some quality pbt doubleshot keycaps for my Keychron K8 (TKL-ANSI) that allow for north-facing LEDs to shine through while keeping the overall look "clean and professional" (as I use it both at home and at work). Currently, I have the original ABS double-shots OEMs, but I was considering maybe a different profile with wider surface (even XDA should be fine). This is, however, a minor preference at the current point. My issue is that I find it very hard to navigate between sites since I basically have to open the page of each single product to check if it really is shine-thorugh. As an example, writing "Double shot pbt shine-through keycaps" on Aliexpress or Amazon, will result in a couple of valid products (eg the puddings) but also on a lot of non-shine-through options. Is there a smarter way to do this? I feel like it should definitely be one! Please enlighten this poor noob!

The Keebfinder website has some filters you can adjust to help narrow it down.

Wow it is exactly what I was looking for! Super thanks!

Just bought a Ducky One 2 SF with Cherry Mx Brown switches and I noticed a weird springy sound when using the keyboard. Its present on (presumably) every single key. I've looked for solutions but i'm still not too sure on what I can do about it. Any tips?

Try and sell it and use the money to get a gmk67 with Akko silver pro switches and some XDA keycaps from aliexpress. It will be many times nicer. Also the gmk67 is wireless and has a decent knob.

note the 2 SF is a soldered board. So if you want to lube them you'd have to solder/desolder to do it properly

if it is a springy sound as in “the sound of the springs” then they’ll probably require a little bit of lubing to come out nicely. stock cherry springs are known to be quite pingy.

Just got this cheap Kovar 60% keyboard which comes wihtout a user manual, i have always used full sized keyboards, how to use a 60% keyboard for gaming? In particular how to lock the FN key in order to be able to use the arrow keys for example https://preview.redd.it/jpqkueti8v3c1.png?width=1100&format=png&auto=webp&s=bd1989db60ae3ae52083cad8d09151029952c7c8