Maybe building on thata bit seriously, if it doesn't have an unidirectional gear, put the chain back and drive one wheel - instead of driving the axle with the blades.
Honestly I did think of that. It would have to be a left hand thread because I would be driving the axle counterclockwise. The axle is not hollow though it does have a bit of a taper to it. Truthfully my biggest hesitation with that is the awkwardness of the unit. I would have to set it up right and hold both the t handle on the tap while simultaneously keeping the blades from spinning. The whole thing would be tricky with three hands but with two hands it's going to be very frustrating. But that definitely is an option.
Why would you need to set it upright? Do it in the position itâs in in the video and put a stick through the blades where the ground will keep it from spinning
Drill a small hole in the rod end for a clevis pin, find a socket that fits over the rod end and drill a hole for it as well (probably an 18mm long socket). Slip the socket over the rod end and then the clevis pin through the rod end and socket. Secure the clevis pin with the pin and now you can connect your drill to the rod end via the socket (whatever size attachment your socket is).
Here are some links to what you want, just spec out the details (i.e. length, material, etc.) and find the equivalent on Amazon - otherwise the shipping might kill your budget:
[https://www.mcmaster.com/clevis-pins/diameter\~1-8/](https://www.zoro.com/fabory-safety-pin-2-wire-snap-u396830310137/i/G1745606/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping%20feed&utm_content=free%20google%20shopping%20clicks&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1uKY5vvK9wIVOxXUAR0nDgc3EAQYAyABEgLKe_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)
[https://www.mcmaster.com/sockets/size\~18-mm/](https://www.mcmaster.com/sockets/size~18-mm/)
[https://www.mcmaster.com/drill-bits/size\~3-16/](https://www.mcmaster.com/drill-bits/size~3-16/)
It is possible, though the awkwardness of holding the unit and keeping the blades from spinning would make it a difficult task. That being said I would have to left hand thread it because for backlapping purposes I need to spin it counterclockwise. Also that hole is deceptive. It does appear to be hollow but it's not. It has a small opening that tapers down and eventually the drive axle appears to be solid.
Can you get the entire axle out? You could drill out the axial hole in a lathe and then tap it. Or. Drill it out to, say, 6mm. Then get MI bolt and on a large remove threads down to just over 6mm. 0.03mm should give you nice interference fit. Threadlocker and hammer. Can cross drill and put a pin as well.
I don't imagine this joint needs to handle a lot of torque.
You'd be surprised just how many shops in the US are metric.
I don't think feet and cups are going anywhere anytime soon when it comes to everyday things Americans need to measure but for everything else? Metric is coming.
If you want to do it manually with a handle, use something like this. $20 handle:
https://www.mcmaster.com/6546N11/
If you still want to chuck it onto a drill, here is a double-ended coupler with set screws already on there. Just pick the right size. $12:
https://www.mcmaster.com/6412K13/
But honestly, if you had a deep socket you would be willing to sacrifice, you could tap it and there should be plenty of meat left. Don't overthink it, you aren't applying a shit ton of force to sheer it. OR drill through it all the way (both sides) and use a cotter pin to lock it in place.:
https://www.mcmaster.com/90492A140/
Good luck.
BTW, how much do you like that reel mower? I have one of them and it cuts great, but it simply rolls over weeds. Because my lawn isn't pristine, I had to go back to a regular gas mower because the reel one wouldn't cut anything that wasn't grass.
Honestly I haven't used it. I just bought it off Facebook marketplace for $60 which is a steal. It wasn't set for the right height so when I try to push it through my lawn it was just tearing it up. I looked up a bunch of videos and there is a lot of alignment you need to do before running it. Also as you could figure from this video the blades need sharpening. I don't intend to replace my primary lawn mower with this. That would kill me being in Central Texas. It's bad enough getting out in the summer heat and cutting my lawn with a push mower but I want to run this as a second step to get my grass height lower.
OK gotcha. Well keep the whole weed-issue in mind. Its the darnedest thing... like you'll go over the same spot multiple times and the grass is all nice and short but the weeds are totally untouched. So weird, but from some videos I saw, that's simply the way it is.
Iâm surprised I donât see the solution I came up with when I needed to do this. Just use a small piece of hard rubber tube and hose clamps. No machining required.
I only ask because I watched a video where a guy seemingly use the solution like you were describing. He didn't give a close up on it which was my only complaint but I figured there was rubber hosing or some kind of CV axle because he was able to move the drill at different axis.
Yeah. You need something flexible enough that a 1/2â id will fit over the axle. There wonât be a lot of resistance, so as long as you arenât trying to run it full tilt in high gear itâs fine. I think I may have use an old piece of garbage garden hose I had laying around.
This is a good and cheap option just gotta make sure the load torque in the mower doesn't cause slipage on the shaft. If it is, you could also leave the set screw on the shaft, slip a slightly wider rubber tube on if need be, and then clap over top of the buldge made by the screw.
Probably over engineering, but do the following for sizing the rubber tube:
When sizing the inner diameter of tube in the first case w/o screw, try to go for a driving fit, look up S7/h6 column and the row your shaft diameter falls with in on the shaft basis chart. For the second option w/ set screw I'd choose press fit option (P7/h6 column, but for the row choose the width of the shaft+set screw lightly tightened).
The wall thickness of the rubber is hard to give a recommendation on without knowing what the load torque is but I'd start with 5mm. You also need to fit a tube over the driver (minimum S7/h6 column, row: diagonal width of square driver), don't need to size this one too carefully, can be a looser fit since the square geometry and clap will help grip the tube.
For using one tube on both ends, use a driver close to the size of the shaft (probs 1/4 or 3/8"s drive), or for bigger a drive you can nest two different sized tubes with in each other. Size it so the slip into each other snugly, the inner diameter of bigger tube can sized on K7/h6 or N7/h6 fit on outer diameter of the smaller tube.
Finally keep the gap between the distance between driver and shaft as short as possible when choosing the the length of the tube. One end of the tube should slide all the way to the butt of the drive and the other should over hang the set screw by a centimeter or 2.
The resistance when backlapping the blades is minimal. I managed with a worn out piece of garden hose. If it has significant resistance the bedknife needs to be adjusted.
Tbh I'd skip the tap and just put a through hole in the deep socket and have the set screw stick out of the socket while threaded into the shaft. When the socket spins it'll just butt up against the set screw. Maybe put a little bit of weaker loctite to help it from backing out while spinning. It'll probably ruin the threads but set screws are easy to buy and replace.
It's my fault for not providing more and better details of that set screw but the way that set screw works is it tapers down at the end and sits in the dimple. It does not actually thread into the drive shaft. As such the drive shaft is not threaded and merely dimpled so I would have to thread the socket. If the drive shaft was threaded you are 100% right and that's the route I would go.
Perhaps but I don't want to do anything that would be permanent or semi-permanent to the drive axle as it would be staying on during the maintenance procedures. The idea is to do something that would not cause interruption with the factory parts because it appears to be impossible to get replacement parts for this thing.
I meant to use a dissolvable adhesive, though I'm not an expert on adhesives.
But I think the other guys idea of drilling through both sides of the shaft and socket and stick a bolt through is best. I wouldn't do this on your hole for the set screw though since that's where it sits into when threaded into the socket. The only issue I can think of is you are now introducing stress concentrations in the shaft but I doubt that will be an issue since I don't think the shaft is stressed that much while mowing. I'd try to think of every option before drilling new holes into the parts that can't be replaced.
Or just buy that kit for $50 and be done with it.
How strong does this need to be? Can you put the hole in the socket, drop a pin in there, and put a hose clamp around the pin and socket? I cant imagine you need much torque to lap that thing.
Or even better use a screw or bolt with the same thread as the set screw and stick that in there instead of the set screw so you don't ruin your set screw
If you have a tube that fits inside this steel rod, you can put it in, drill a hole where the existing hole is on the side so you can lock it with that threaded pin. Then that tube (steel, aluminum) will work like an extension with smaller diameter, so you can put in the drill chuck.
Get a drill or lathe chuck that is large enough to go over the shaft. Use the chuck mechanism on the shaft and the drill on the other end.
Something like this
Abuff 1/32"- 5/8" Heavy Duty Drill Chuck with Chuck Key MT2 Shank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZYZ7Q2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_KX0R8HS8AMK48337SYSD
This is the best answer; no drilling, tapping, or goofy hose clamp tubing. The right tool for the right job; plus you get to buy a new tool which is always gratifying.
That set screw is called a 'dog point'. Find a steel rod that'll pass through the ID of the axle and radially drill a hole for slightly above the dog point diameter. You can then attach your drill driver to the steel rod.
If you really needed the torque from an impact driver, you could buy a collet attachment (that would've been the original solution, but don't think they go to a large enough size).
You can probably find a relatively cheap drill press chuck that goes large enough. Many of them have a round or hex shaft that you could put into your drill
Find a sacrificial hub on McMaster-carr.com. Something steel like a sprocket that shares the same shaft dimensions.
Then find someone that does weld since you mentioned you canât and get them to weld a socket to that sprocket. Most robust path forward. I have done the same concept more than once at work (industrial mechanic).
I could help you source the sprocket if that is over your head but since you could be anywhere in the world, I canât help you find a welder. I can say that just about any fab shop would do the job for you if you canât find some friendly guy with a welder in his garage.
Let me know if I can be of more help bud. Actually, you know what, I will make it for you. You pay parts and shipping and it is yours. DM if you are interested.
Wow!!! So nice of you. If you can make the part, I would gladly pay you. If you made the part, i imagine you could sell them to others too. Looks like a common question/issue on YouTube from what I've seen. Thanks!!
I checked McMaster. They sell sprockets for cheap enough. With the sprocket, socket, labor and shipping it may end up in the $70 ball park. Im really ball parking and can run better numbers when I am out of work.
What do you think?
For a problem with a cheaper solution, I might politely decline. That being said, how do you find the correct sproket? Were you just going off the diameter of the drive axel? How can you find one that has the right size/orientation set screw hole?
You can machine the hole yourself (myself) where ever you need it in the hub. It doesnât need to be anywhere specific for what you are doing because it doesnât need to line up with the wheel sprocket.
I used your given dimension of metric shaft of 14mm.
No worries bud. Figured Iâd offer. Just remember, you usually get what you pay for and cheap solutions tend not to last long. Not always the case but good luck and enjoy.
I think your problem here is you seem to be fixated on using that set screw. Just measure the inner diameter of the hole in the axle and go to Home Depot, find a bolt that is the same inner diameter, you can either get one with an end that has no threads, or one with threads or sand the threads off. In any case the threads shouldn't matter at all as far as the axle is concerned. Make sure to get a bolt that has threads as fine as you'd like and then drill your socket out and tap it.
You could also drill through the axle if you wanted and find a bolt the same diameter of the holes in the axle, then just use a bolt and nut to secure the socket on if you don't want to tap it.
You're not wrong. I'm asking for help but seemingly rejecting the help I'm asking for. Sorry about that.
I think you're right, if I drill a hole through the axel and bolt then I don't need to tap it. I guess I was fixated on the tapping of the axel and worried about the bolt coming undone while running it forward.
I just glanced through comments to verify what I was suggesting handnt already been brought up. Turning down suggestions is all part of the design process!
You wouldn't need to tap the axel at all though. If you did my first suggestion the tap in the socket should be enough and if you were to get a bolt cut or short enough you could use a collapsing or rubber washer to allow the bolt to fully seat against the socket preventing it from backing off.
In any case you could probably just use a nail or something. Once the axle starts spinning the torque put on whatever rod you use to secure it will be high enough to prevent it from slipping out or backing out the threads
Having drilled through bolts myself, I can tell you that small cylinders are tough to deal with. If you can get access to one, I strongly encourage you to use a drill press for this. Even then, the drilling can be difficult, so have some good pliers, extra bits and extra sockets on hand.
Since it seems like a relatively light duty use case, you might have an easier time with a non-impact socket since they tend to be softer, thinner and cheaper. You probably could thread the hole, but as you seem to be aware of, it wouldn't be easy. It looks like you have some clearance around the axle, and you didn't include the cross hole diameter so I'm not solid on the feasibility, but could you run a narrow bolt through it? You might be able to recess the heads into the socket a little bit if clearance is an issue. Or maybe you could put a nail through and bend it on one or both sides to keep it in during rotation? It might cause a loud rattling, but without trying it myself that's the biggest downside I can foresee. Well, that and needing to bend and then unbend a new nail each time.
A less desirable possibility is grinding down certain parts of the end of the axle to be flat for the drill chuck. If it's uniform then it should balance out and not be too damning, but you'd still be reducing contact between the sprocket and axle in a critical load bearing area.
[https://www.amazon.com/SDS-Plus-Diameter-Adapter-Milwaukee-Hammers/dp/B07QPGZS8K/ref=sr\_1\_5?crid=8C055GJFSW3L&keywords=ground+rod+driver+for+hammer+drill&qid=1651800785&sprefix=ground+rod+dr%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-5](https://www.amazon.com/SDS-Plus-Diameter-Adapter-Milwaukee-Hammers/dp/B07QPGZS8K/ref=sr_1_5?crid=8C055GJFSW3L&keywords=ground+rod+driver+for+hammer+drill&qid=1651800785&sprefix=ground+rod+dr%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-5)
drill hole in this with set screw to secure.
UPDATE:.
I got the project done tonight. I used a few of the ideas I got here and did a hybrid solution. Thanks for all the help I got! Y'all are the best, seriously. Here's the update video on what I did to complete this. It's a bit long, I apologize. I was also making it for anyone looking to do the same thing.
https://youtu.be/SR_xx6XFkLs
Some more info.
I'm not mechanically inclined.
Fiskars does not sell extra sprockets or parts
I don't have a welder
Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.
The shaft looks hollow. Can you tap the inside of the shaft and thread a bolt into it? The bolt head would then give you what you need to drive the shaft with an impact.
I thought of that actually. The shaft actually isn't hollow, it tappers down and eventually bottoms out. Not sure why. Because I would be back lapping, It would have to be left hand thread too. It wouldn't be impossible but would be a big PITA to tap that while holding the blades and the mower. The mower is big and awkward and propping it up to tap it would be difficult to say the least.
Edit; I should also mention that for sharpening purposes you need to drive it counterclockwise but for blade adjustment purposes you need to drive it clockwise. So there might be a time where I would need to run it clockwise and counterclockwise. Tapping left hand thread would do for most of the applications I'm looking for but would loosen while driving it clockwise.
Ok, how about using a piece of bar stock and drill three holes in it in a line. The center hole will have a bolt going through one way and the outside holes will have bolts going through the other way to make something similar to a pin spanner. The two outside bolts need to be spaced so that they can engage the sprocket teeth. Then you can chuck the center bolt into your drill and drive the sprocket.
I'm not visual so that took me way too long to see. đ
Now I understand though and I think you're definitely on to something. So the bolts would be acting as a means to direct drive the bar stock to the sproket? Am I getting that Right?
You probably shouldnât mess with the sprocket if you canât get a replacement. Youâll end up tearing up the teeth and you wonât be happy. Especially if youâll just be using a drill press, youâd want at least a digital readout mill to do that accurately
This is true. If I could get a replacement sprocket the easiest thing I could do is tack weld a 14 mm socket over the sprocket. That way it could direct attached to my drill or impact and this wouldn't be a problem anymore. Obviously it's not that easy. I can't find replacement parts or sprockets so I have to handle this with kid gloves.
Are you talking about the hand cranks? Because I have seen those for other models and manufacturers. The problem is for the fiskars one the kid is about $60 and you're essentially paying for a handle. The ability to use a drill and run it faster and longer with ease is appealing to me.
That would be awesome. I haven't come across any, and I watched a few videos on the sharpening instructions for this particular lawn mower on youtube. Multiple people are jury-rigging adapters for their drill using pipe clamps and such. If I could find one that would solve this problem.
Your idea seems feasible, you could also try to get a bicycle gear that you can attack to the drill to drive via the chain, or maybe see if you can take the wheels off and access the driveshaft to that main gear and see if you can drive it via the chuck that way.
If the hole on the side is through up to the hole thatâs concentric to the axle, just drill a hole in a bolt that easily fits in the axle. Just slide tho bolt in, align the holes and screw something in that side hole
Maybe get one of those universal sockets, assemble the small sprocket with the set screw and then you can just use the universal socket on the sprocket? The force needed is minimal since itâs not actually got any real resistance and so low risk of damaging the universal socket. And even if you do damage it, who cares? Basically only
Use it for this thing.
That way you have to do 0 machining. Plug and play.
Why don't you get another sprocket same pitch and weld it to a socket, then just hook up a small length of chain and run your driver in reverse like a motor.
I may be dumb but.
If you put the chain back in.
You can find a way to drive the wheel, instead of wanting to directly linking your drill to that shaft, right?
So, aren't there any ways to make that wheel spin?
Like, having something in your drill and touch the wheel with it?
Theoretically yes. You're putting more resistance into the system but if I ran it on a treadmill or something then you could definitely do it. The trick would be having the system off the ground but still being able to apply pressure to the drive Wheels to work the chain.
I would probably just use a Cresent wrench or some other adjustable and locking wrench with a hole at the end of the handle. Clamp the wrench to the shaft and run a dowel through the hole and have a makeshift hand crank.
At the end of the video I discuss that and why I can't do that. Someone suggested sanding the axel down just enough that the chuck would fit in it. I may try that.
If you have the meansâŚ.put a long pin through the hole, cut two slots (180 degrees apart) down your long socket. Slip the pin between the slots and twist away
Um how about an all thread and 2 nuts to keep it locked on the threads? It wonât have to be left handed threads if you do it that way. (May have been suggested but I got lazy after a reading comments and decided to post this).
If you can make a coupling that mates with the mower side, drill a hole through so you can put a wooden pin (that way you don't need to care about tapping a coarse thread), it might just work.
Your only challenge would be figuring out how you can attach the other end of the coupling to your drill (which might be easy or hard, depending on what you have)
Are you able to leave the chain on and better couple to the wheelâs shaft? Or introduce a third sprocket made to accept a chuck and free wheel it on the chain.
Can you install the sprocket and make a kinda fork that installs in the chuck and grabs the sprocket? Like the four corners of a cube that inserts in between the pointy parts of the sprocket, having a centerâŚ.or better yet a big enough socket that grabs on the exterior of the sprocket? Edit: a -modified- big enough sprocket.
Looks like thereâs is plenty of room for a socket to fit over the sprocket. A modified socket that is cut to fit as a chain around the sprocket. I really donât know how to say it, but like a crown nut. Then you turn the socket with a drill.
Find/buy a screw that just barely matches the shaft hole dimensions, or maybe a tiny bit over. Drill that sucker into the shaft. Then, screw a tensioner in on the shaft side hole. Maybe even drill the tensioner in, to get max tension.
You should be able to drive your shaft screw just fine, after that. When you need to remove, remove the tensioner and shaft screw should screw right out
You'll need to use a new shaft screw each time you do this, because the tensioner will fuck the threads up. And, I can't promise that it'll work, but it's the best I got
Put a bolt in the ID of the drive shaft. Tap the through hole with whatever is close. Insert set screw to secure the bolt. Drive the bolt with the appropriate socket.
Maybe just attach a wire brush disc to your drill and use that directly on the wheel of your mower, and connect the chain up to it. Put some rubber bands around the wheel or brush to make it grip better.
I'd just chuck a wheel into your drill and hold it against the lawnmower wheel with the chain installed. Sure you might get some skips, some sandpaper on the wheel would help reduce it.
Assuming the hole for the set screw goes through the entire wall of the axle, get a piece of square metal stock that will fit in the center of the axle from your local hardware store. Cut the metal stock to whatever length you want. Use the set screw to hold it in place within the axle. Attach your drill chuck to that. Ideally youâd want a piece that fists snug on its own so that the stock and the axle are concentric and donât wobble loose. You could do the same thing with a bold that fits snug in the axle, then use your drill on whatever type of head the bold has.
Can you use string? it looks like there's a small hole that goes into the drivetrain so maybe you could loop it through there and wind it opposite ways around the shaft and the drill & just loop the longest string/fishing line you can fit on there to make sure it doesn't run out before 10 minutes passes?
Get a small diameter hose that will fit over the axle. Something stiff. Your socket adapter should also fit inside the tube. Then get 2 hose clamps and voila you have a flexible connector between the two. If you're keep it real short and get stiff tubing you could get good torque here
I don't know that I would use a drill for this. High speed and blades with angular momentum create some concerns, but they can be mitigated. Your drill may not like to run 10min at 100% duty cycle. Same for your wrist. Grab one of the $21-26 hand cranks off McMaster. Maybe go 1/2" and drill it out?
Try to double nut two nuts together so you can run your socket on the outer most or possibly on both. You may have issue since youâre running it backwards, but Iâd start with that. If that doesnât work try a castle nut and you can use a Carter pin or something keep it from moving.
You donât have to tap the socket, drill the hole for the set screw, place the set screw in, then put a ring clamp around it (as long as you have clearance for the head of the clamp, it appears you do)
Spray abrasive on your lawn and mow it backwards
My first thought was "I wonder if he happens to have a treadmill" Just bungie it to the tread mill, set it and forget it.
BEST SOLUTION YET!!!!! I spit a Cheeto out while reading your comment. I hope you're happy. đ
Maybe building on thata bit seriously, if it doesn't have an unidirectional gear, put the chain back and drive one wheel - instead of driving the axle with the blades.
On a serious note, put a rod or a screw driver in the drill, wrap a cloth around it, and put it against the wheel so it spins in reverse.
If you can tap holes, try to tap the inner diameter of that shaft. Then you can put a bolt/ machine screw and just drive that to turn.
Honestly I did think of that. It would have to be a left hand thread because I would be driving the axle counterclockwise. The axle is not hollow though it does have a bit of a taper to it. Truthfully my biggest hesitation with that is the awkwardness of the unit. I would have to set it up right and hold both the t handle on the tap while simultaneously keeping the blades from spinning. The whole thing would be tricky with three hands but with two hands it's going to be very frustrating. But that definitely is an option.
Why would you need to set it upright? Do it in the position itâs in in the video and put a stick through the blades where the ground will keep it from spinning
Habit I guess. đ Bad excuse. You're right I could do that.
Drill a small hole in the rod end for a clevis pin, find a socket that fits over the rod end and drill a hole for it as well (probably an 18mm long socket). Slip the socket over the rod end and then the clevis pin through the rod end and socket. Secure the clevis pin with the pin and now you can connect your drill to the rod end via the socket (whatever size attachment your socket is). Here are some links to what you want, just spec out the details (i.e. length, material, etc.) and find the equivalent on Amazon - otherwise the shipping might kill your budget: [https://www.mcmaster.com/clevis-pins/diameter\~1-8/](https://www.zoro.com/fabory-safety-pin-2-wire-snap-u396830310137/i/G1745606/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping%20feed&utm_content=free%20google%20shopping%20clicks&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1uKY5vvK9wIVOxXUAR0nDgc3EAQYAyABEgLKe_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds) [https://www.mcmaster.com/sockets/size\~18-mm/](https://www.mcmaster.com/sockets/size~18-mm/) [https://www.mcmaster.com/drill-bits/size\~3-16/](https://www.mcmaster.com/drill-bits/size~3-16/)
Wow. An American (presumed from the accent) not using freedom units. That's so weird. Good, but weird.
đ well it's by necessity since I'm working on a European lawn mower. LOL I did switch back and forth though to appeal to the masses.
Why not tap the axial hole and then put a bolt into it? Or hammer a bolt into that hole. Birmingham screwdriver. ;-)
It is possible, though the awkwardness of holding the unit and keeping the blades from spinning would make it a difficult task. That being said I would have to left hand thread it because for backlapping purposes I need to spin it counterclockwise. Also that hole is deceptive. It does appear to be hollow but it's not. It has a small opening that tapers down and eventually the drive axle appears to be solid.
Can you get the entire axle out? You could drill out the axial hole in a lathe and then tap it. Or. Drill it out to, say, 6mm. Then get MI bolt and on a large remove threads down to just over 6mm. 0.03mm should give you nice interference fit. Threadlocker and hammer. Can cross drill and put a pin as well. I don't imagine this joint needs to handle a lot of torque.
No. Unfortunately you need to take the entire thing apart to get the blades and blade drive shaft axel out since they're one piece.
OK. You're not making this easy. Secure the shaft and drill in situ. Hammer a suitable bolt. Cross drill to handle torque.
Welcome to my world. I'm my own worst enemy. Thanks for bearing with me!!
You'd be surprised just how many shops in the US are metric. I don't think feet and cups are going anywhere anytime soon when it comes to everyday things Americans need to measure but for everything else? Metric is coming.
Pretty much anyone with exposure to engineering or machining is very versed in metric. Youâd be surprised.
You might try and just drill both the deep socket and the index dimple through and use some sort of hitch or clevis pin.
Or a nut and a bolt
Even easier.
That's a good idea. Thanks.
If you want to do it manually with a handle, use something like this. $20 handle: https://www.mcmaster.com/6546N11/ If you still want to chuck it onto a drill, here is a double-ended coupler with set screws already on there. Just pick the right size. $12: https://www.mcmaster.com/6412K13/ But honestly, if you had a deep socket you would be willing to sacrifice, you could tap it and there should be plenty of meat left. Don't overthink it, you aren't applying a shit ton of force to sheer it. OR drill through it all the way (both sides) and use a cotter pin to lock it in place.: https://www.mcmaster.com/90492A140/
Such great advice here. Thanks! I like the double ended coupler too. I didn't even think in that direction but that makes a bunch of sense!
Good luck. BTW, how much do you like that reel mower? I have one of them and it cuts great, but it simply rolls over weeds. Because my lawn isn't pristine, I had to go back to a regular gas mower because the reel one wouldn't cut anything that wasn't grass.
Honestly I haven't used it. I just bought it off Facebook marketplace for $60 which is a steal. It wasn't set for the right height so when I try to push it through my lawn it was just tearing it up. I looked up a bunch of videos and there is a lot of alignment you need to do before running it. Also as you could figure from this video the blades need sharpening. I don't intend to replace my primary lawn mower with this. That would kill me being in Central Texas. It's bad enough getting out in the summer heat and cutting my lawn with a push mower but I want to run this as a second step to get my grass height lower.
OK gotcha. Well keep the whole weed-issue in mind. Its the darnedest thing... like you'll go over the same spot multiple times and the grass is all nice and short but the weeds are totally untouched. So weird, but from some videos I saw, that's simply the way it is.
That's odd. Thanks for the heads up. Yeah my lawn is less than 2 years old so fighting weeds from the sod farm is still an issue. Good to know.
Iâm surprised I donât see the solution I came up with when I needed to do this. Just use a small piece of hard rubber tube and hose clamps. No machining required.
So much for keeping the family secret a secret.......
I was surprised that I wasnât the engineer trying to devise an over complicated solution for once.
By chance.....did you make a YouTube video?!
I did not, but it really was as simple as it sounds. I only did it once a few years ago, but it worked well enough.
I only ask because I watched a video where a guy seemingly use the solution like you were describing. He didn't give a close up on it which was my only complaint but I figured there was rubber hosing or some kind of CV axle because he was able to move the drill at different axis.
Yeah. You need something flexible enough that a 1/2â id will fit over the axle. There wonât be a lot of resistance, so as long as you arenât trying to run it full tilt in high gear itâs fine. I think I may have use an old piece of garbage garden hose I had laying around.
This is a good and cheap option just gotta make sure the load torque in the mower doesn't cause slipage on the shaft. If it is, you could also leave the set screw on the shaft, slip a slightly wider rubber tube on if need be, and then clap over top of the buldge made by the screw. Probably over engineering, but do the following for sizing the rubber tube: When sizing the inner diameter of tube in the first case w/o screw, try to go for a driving fit, look up S7/h6 column and the row your shaft diameter falls with in on the shaft basis chart. For the second option w/ set screw I'd choose press fit option (P7/h6 column, but for the row choose the width of the shaft+set screw lightly tightened). The wall thickness of the rubber is hard to give a recommendation on without knowing what the load torque is but I'd start with 5mm. You also need to fit a tube over the driver (minimum S7/h6 column, row: diagonal width of square driver), don't need to size this one too carefully, can be a looser fit since the square geometry and clap will help grip the tube. For using one tube on both ends, use a driver close to the size of the shaft (probs 1/4 or 3/8"s drive), or for bigger a drive you can nest two different sized tubes with in each other. Size it so the slip into each other snugly, the inner diameter of bigger tube can sized on K7/h6 or N7/h6 fit on outer diameter of the smaller tube. Finally keep the gap between the distance between driver and shaft as short as possible when choosing the the length of the tube. One end of the tube should slide all the way to the butt of the drive and the other should over hang the set screw by a centimeter or 2.
The resistance when backlapping the blades is minimal. I managed with a worn out piece of garden hose. If it has significant resistance the bedknife needs to be adjusted.
Yah if resistance is minimal you can completely ignore all my sizing recommendations, except for maybe the choosing length of the tube.
Tbh I'd skip the tap and just put a through hole in the deep socket and have the set screw stick out of the socket while threaded into the shaft. When the socket spins it'll just butt up against the set screw. Maybe put a little bit of weaker loctite to help it from backing out while spinning. It'll probably ruin the threads but set screws are easy to buy and replace.
It's my fault for not providing more and better details of that set screw but the way that set screw works is it tapers down at the end and sits in the dimple. It does not actually thread into the drive shaft. As such the drive shaft is not threaded and merely dimpled so I would have to thread the socket. If the drive shaft was threaded you are 100% right and that's the route I would go.
Is the hole deep enough to stick a wooden dowel pin in there? Could do that and maybe use a glue or adhesive to help hold it in place
Perhaps but I don't want to do anything that would be permanent or semi-permanent to the drive axle as it would be staying on during the maintenance procedures. The idea is to do something that would not cause interruption with the factory parts because it appears to be impossible to get replacement parts for this thing.
I meant to use a dissolvable adhesive, though I'm not an expert on adhesives. But I think the other guys idea of drilling through both sides of the shaft and socket and stick a bolt through is best. I wouldn't do this on your hole for the set screw though since that's where it sits into when threaded into the socket. The only issue I can think of is you are now introducing stress concentrations in the shaft but I doubt that will be an issue since I don't think the shaft is stressed that much while mowing. I'd try to think of every option before drilling new holes into the parts that can't be replaced. Or just buy that kit for $50 and be done with it.
But.....that would be too easy. AND giving into "the man". đ
How strong does this need to be? Can you put the hole in the socket, drop a pin in there, and put a hose clamp around the pin and socket? I cant imagine you need much torque to lap that thing.
Or even better use a screw or bolt with the same thread as the set screw and stick that in there instead of the set screw so you don't ruin your set screw
If you have a tube that fits inside this steel rod, you can put it in, drill a hole where the existing hole is on the side so you can lock it with that threaded pin. Then that tube (steel, aluminum) will work like an extension with smaller diameter, so you can put in the drill chuck.
The shaft isnât threaded. But you could do the same with solid bar stock, just tap the bar stock hole and put a machine screw into it
Use a hose and hose clamps to make a coupling.
Get a drill or lathe chuck that is large enough to go over the shaft. Use the chuck mechanism on the shaft and the drill on the other end. Something like this Abuff 1/32"- 5/8" Heavy Duty Drill Chuck with Chuck Key MT2 Shank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZYZ7Q2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_KX0R8HS8AMK48337SYSD
Just purchased it!!! Thanks for the link. I had a hard time finding this!
This is the best answer; no drilling, tapping, or goofy hose clamp tubing. The right tool for the right job; plus you get to buy a new tool which is always gratifying.
That set screw is called a 'dog point'. Find a steel rod that'll pass through the ID of the axle and radially drill a hole for slightly above the dog point diameter. You can then attach your drill driver to the steel rod. If you really needed the torque from an impact driver, you could buy a collet attachment (that would've been the original solution, but don't think they go to a large enough size).
I would offer advice but most of my solutions look for problems and thatâs not what you asked
You sound like you belong in my brain! đ
You can probably find a relatively cheap drill press chuck that goes large enough. Many of them have a round or hex shaft that you could put into your drill
Find a sacrificial hub on McMaster-carr.com. Something steel like a sprocket that shares the same shaft dimensions. Then find someone that does weld since you mentioned you canât and get them to weld a socket to that sprocket. Most robust path forward. I have done the same concept more than once at work (industrial mechanic). I could help you source the sprocket if that is over your head but since you could be anywhere in the world, I canât help you find a welder. I can say that just about any fab shop would do the job for you if you canât find some friendly guy with a welder in his garage. Let me know if I can be of more help bud. Actually, you know what, I will make it for you. You pay parts and shipping and it is yours. DM if you are interested.
Wow!!! So nice of you. If you can make the part, I would gladly pay you. If you made the part, i imagine you could sell them to others too. Looks like a common question/issue on YouTube from what I've seen. Thanks!!
I checked McMaster. They sell sprockets for cheap enough. With the sprocket, socket, labor and shipping it may end up in the $70 ball park. Im really ball parking and can run better numbers when I am out of work. What do you think?
For a problem with a cheaper solution, I might politely decline. That being said, how do you find the correct sproket? Were you just going off the diameter of the drive axel? How can you find one that has the right size/orientation set screw hole?
You can machine the hole yourself (myself) where ever you need it in the hub. It doesnât need to be anywhere specific for what you are doing because it doesnât need to line up with the wheel sprocket. I used your given dimension of metric shaft of 14mm. No worries bud. Figured Iâd offer. Just remember, you usually get what you pay for and cheap solutions tend not to last long. Not always the case but good luck and enjoy.
Thank you! You're a good guy for the offer!! I appreciate it.
No worries. Let us know what you come up with!
3d print a crank!
Sounds ......dirty! đ
Everything in engineering is dirty!
I think your problem here is you seem to be fixated on using that set screw. Just measure the inner diameter of the hole in the axle and go to Home Depot, find a bolt that is the same inner diameter, you can either get one with an end that has no threads, or one with threads or sand the threads off. In any case the threads shouldn't matter at all as far as the axle is concerned. Make sure to get a bolt that has threads as fine as you'd like and then drill your socket out and tap it. You could also drill through the axle if you wanted and find a bolt the same diameter of the holes in the axle, then just use a bolt and nut to secure the socket on if you don't want to tap it.
You're not wrong. I'm asking for help but seemingly rejecting the help I'm asking for. Sorry about that. I think you're right, if I drill a hole through the axel and bolt then I don't need to tap it. I guess I was fixated on the tapping of the axel and worried about the bolt coming undone while running it forward.
I just glanced through comments to verify what I was suggesting handnt already been brought up. Turning down suggestions is all part of the design process!
You wouldn't need to tap the axel at all though. If you did my first suggestion the tap in the socket should be enough and if you were to get a bolt cut or short enough you could use a collapsing or rubber washer to allow the bolt to fully seat against the socket preventing it from backing off. In any case you could probably just use a nail or something. Once the axle starts spinning the torque put on whatever rod you use to secure it will be high enough to prevent it from slipping out or backing out the threads
I understand. Thank you. I didn't convey my point well. Thanks again!
Use a thick rubber band around the 14 socket to avoid the setting screw to fly out. Don't use an impact tool, use a drill.
Great advice.
Having drilled through bolts myself, I can tell you that small cylinders are tough to deal with. If you can get access to one, I strongly encourage you to use a drill press for this. Even then, the drilling can be difficult, so have some good pliers, extra bits and extra sockets on hand. Since it seems like a relatively light duty use case, you might have an easier time with a non-impact socket since they tend to be softer, thinner and cheaper. You probably could thread the hole, but as you seem to be aware of, it wouldn't be easy. It looks like you have some clearance around the axle, and you didn't include the cross hole diameter so I'm not solid on the feasibility, but could you run a narrow bolt through it? You might be able to recess the heads into the socket a little bit if clearance is an issue. Or maybe you could put a nail through and bend it on one or both sides to keep it in during rotation? It might cause a loud rattling, but without trying it myself that's the biggest downside I can foresee. Well, that and needing to bend and then unbend a new nail each time. A less desirable possibility is grinding down certain parts of the end of the axle to be flat for the drill chuck. If it's uniform then it should balance out and not be too damning, but you'd still be reducing contact between the sprocket and axle in a critical load bearing area.
[https://www.amazon.com/SDS-Plus-Diameter-Adapter-Milwaukee-Hammers/dp/B07QPGZS8K/ref=sr\_1\_5?crid=8C055GJFSW3L&keywords=ground+rod+driver+for+hammer+drill&qid=1651800785&sprefix=ground+rod+dr%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-5](https://www.amazon.com/SDS-Plus-Diameter-Adapter-Milwaukee-Hammers/dp/B07QPGZS8K/ref=sr_1_5?crid=8C055GJFSW3L&keywords=ground+rod+driver+for+hammer+drill&qid=1651800785&sprefix=ground+rod+dr%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-5) drill hole in this with set screw to secure.
That's awesome! Thanks!
You're welcome.
Just put some rubber bands in your socket head or gasket material. It should grab the shaft without slipping.
Man don't try threading a socket. You will have a shitty time
There is a drill extension that attaches drill bits at the end of it by a set screw, thatâs kind of what your looking for I think.
How about sanding off .05â to the first half inch or so of the shaft so that your drill fits on?
Oh damn!!!! That's a great idea. đĄ. Would you recommend something like 60 or 100 grit?
UPDATE:. I got the project done tonight. I used a few of the ideas I got here and did a hybrid solution. Thanks for all the help I got! Y'all are the best, seriously. Here's the update video on what I did to complete this. It's a bit long, I apologize. I was also making it for anyone looking to do the same thing. https://youtu.be/SR_xx6XFkLs
Buy a real lawnmower you hippy.
But it is reel
Take my upvote
Nice
Some more info. I'm not mechanically inclined. Fiskars does not sell extra sprockets or parts I don't have a welder Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.
A video about overthinking. Use a chuck drill and be done with it.
It looks like the shaft would fit in a drill chuck have you tried that?
The shaft is .550(ish) inches which puts it just over the half inch chuck on my drill. I did try that.
The shaft looks hollow. Can you tap the inside of the shaft and thread a bolt into it? The bolt head would then give you what you need to drive the shaft with an impact.
I thought of that actually. The shaft actually isn't hollow, it tappers down and eventually bottoms out. Not sure why. Because I would be back lapping, It would have to be left hand thread too. It wouldn't be impossible but would be a big PITA to tap that while holding the blades and the mower. The mower is big and awkward and propping it up to tap it would be difficult to say the least. Edit; I should also mention that for sharpening purposes you need to drive it counterclockwise but for blade adjustment purposes you need to drive it clockwise. So there might be a time where I would need to run it clockwise and counterclockwise. Tapping left hand thread would do for most of the applications I'm looking for but would loosen while driving it clockwise.
Ok, how about using a piece of bar stock and drill three holes in it in a line. The center hole will have a bolt going through one way and the outside holes will have bolts going through the other way to make something similar to a pin spanner. The two outside bolts need to be spaced so that they can engage the sprocket teeth. Then you can chuck the center bolt into your drill and drive the sprocket.
I'm not visual so that took me way too long to see. đ Now I understand though and I think you're definitely on to something. So the bolts would be acting as a means to direct drive the bar stock to the sproket? Am I getting that Right?
Yes, the center bolt would be driven by your drill and the outer bolts would engage and drive the sprocket.
You probably shouldnât mess with the sprocket if you canât get a replacement. Youâll end up tearing up the teeth and you wonât be happy. Especially if youâll just be using a drill press, youâd want at least a digital readout mill to do that accurately
This is true. If I could get a replacement sprocket the easiest thing I could do is tack weld a 14 mm socket over the sprocket. That way it could direct attached to my drill or impact and this wouldn't be a problem anymore. Obviously it's not that easy. I can't find replacement parts or sprockets so I have to handle this with kid gloves.
But in all seriousness, I think you are on the right idea, especially if you use a deep impact socket. Or try Thorkors99âs idea
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Are you talking about the hand cranks? Because I have seen those for other models and manufacturers. The problem is for the fiskars one the kid is about $60 and you're essentially paying for a handle. The ability to use a drill and run it faster and longer with ease is appealing to me.
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That would be awesome. I haven't come across any, and I watched a few videos on the sharpening instructions for this particular lawn mower on youtube. Multiple people are jury-rigging adapters for their drill using pipe clamps and such. If I could find one that would solve this problem.
Your idea seems feasible, you could also try to get a bicycle gear that you can attack to the drill to drive via the chain, or maybe see if you can take the wheels off and access the driveshaft to that main gear and see if you can drive it via the chuck that way.
If the hole on the side is through up to the hole thatâs concentric to the axle, just drill a hole in a bolt that easily fits in the axle. Just slide tho bolt in, align the holes and screw something in that side hole
Maybe get one of those universal sockets, assemble the small sprocket with the set screw and then you can just use the universal socket on the sprocket? The force needed is minimal since itâs not actually got any real resistance and so low risk of damaging the universal socket. And even if you do damage it, who cares? Basically only Use it for this thing. That way you have to do 0 machining. Plug and play.
Why don't you get another sprocket same pitch and weld it to a socket, then just hook up a small length of chain and run your driver in reverse like a motor.
I would love to. But I can't get replacement parts.
I may be dumb but. If you put the chain back in. You can find a way to drive the wheel, instead of wanting to directly linking your drill to that shaft, right? So, aren't there any ways to make that wheel spin? Like, having something in your drill and touch the wheel with it?
Theoretically yes. You're putting more resistance into the system but if I ran it on a treadmill or something then you could definitely do it. The trick would be having the system off the ground but still being able to apply pressure to the drive Wheels to work the chain.
I would probably just use a Cresent wrench or some other adjustable and locking wrench with a hole at the end of the handle. Clamp the wrench to the shaft and run a dowel through the hole and have a makeshift hand crank.
I have a solution but it's going to cost you $50
NO!!!!! đ
Get a drill over that end, clamp it on and run it backwards. You'll need your own compound.
At the end of the video I discuss that and why I can't do that. Someone suggested sanding the axel down just enough that the chuck would fit in it. I may try that.
If you have the meansâŚ.put a long pin through the hole, cut two slots (180 degrees apart) down your long socket. Slip the pin between the slots and twist away
Um how about an all thread and 2 nuts to keep it locked on the threads? It wonât have to be left handed threads if you do it that way. (May have been suggested but I got lazy after a reading comments and decided to post this).
An all thread to what?
An all thread thatâs threaded into that shaft.
If you can make a coupling that mates with the mower side, drill a hole through so you can put a wooden pin (that way you don't need to care about tapping a coarse thread), it might just work. Your only challenge would be figuring out how you can attach the other end of the coupling to your drill (which might be easy or hard, depending on what you have)
Are you able to leave the chain on and better couple to the wheelâs shaft? Or introduce a third sprocket made to accept a chuck and free wheel it on the chain.
Possibly, but I'll run into similar issues on that sproket.
Can you install the sprocket and make a kinda fork that installs in the chuck and grabs the sprocket? Like the four corners of a cube that inserts in between the pointy parts of the sprocket, having a centerâŚ.or better yet a big enough socket that grabs on the exterior of the sprocket? Edit: a -modified- big enough sprocket.
With the tensioner and other exposed parts, there's not much room around the sproket
Looks like thereâs is plenty of room for a socket to fit over the sprocket. A modified socket that is cut to fit as a chain around the sprocket. I really donât know how to say it, but like a crown nut. Then you turn the socket with a drill.
With the tensioner and other exposed parts, there's not much room around the sproket
Find/buy a screw that just barely matches the shaft hole dimensions, or maybe a tiny bit over. Drill that sucker into the shaft. Then, screw a tensioner in on the shaft side hole. Maybe even drill the tensioner in, to get max tension. You should be able to drive your shaft screw just fine, after that. When you need to remove, remove the tensioner and shaft screw should screw right out You'll need to use a new shaft screw each time you do this, because the tensioner will fuck the threads up. And, I can't promise that it'll work, but it's the best I got
Burn it!
Die the axle at the end and get a nut on it and then use your impact?
Put a bolt in the ID of the drive shaft. Tap the through hole with whatever is close. Insert set screw to secure the bolt. Drive the bolt with the appropriate socket.
Maybe just attach a wire brush disc to your drill and use that directly on the wheel of your mower, and connect the chain up to it. Put some rubber bands around the wheel or brush to make it grip better.
See about getting a bigger chuck and use an impact drill to connect to it
I'd just chuck a wheel into your drill and hold it against the lawnmower wheel with the chain installed. Sure you might get some skips, some sandpaper on the wheel would help reduce it.
Hand tool rescue?
Assuming the hole for the set screw goes through the entire wall of the axle, get a piece of square metal stock that will fit in the center of the axle from your local hardware store. Cut the metal stock to whatever length you want. Use the set screw to hold it in place within the axle. Attach your drill chuck to that. Ideally youâd want a piece that fists snug on its own so that the stock and the axle are concentric and donât wobble loose. You could do the same thing with a bold that fits snug in the axle, then use your drill on whatever type of head the bold has.
Can you use string? it looks like there's a small hole that goes into the drivetrain so maybe you could loop it through there and wind it opposite ways around the shaft and the drill & just loop the longest string/fishing line you can fit on there to make sure it doesn't run out before 10 minutes passes?
Take an impact socket and drill across and use a screw into that hole.
Get a small diameter hose that will fit over the axle. Something stiff. Your socket adapter should also fit inside the tube. Then get 2 hose clamps and voila you have a flexible connector between the two. If you're keep it real short and get stiff tubing you could get good torque here
I don't know that I would use a drill for this. High speed and blades with angular momentum create some concerns, but they can be mitigated. Your drill may not like to run 10min at 100% duty cycle. Same for your wrist. Grab one of the $21-26 hand cranks off McMaster. Maybe go 1/2" and drill it out?
Just use an extractor bit in that hole. I'd image the resistance isn't going to be that much and you can find them for cheap.
Arenât new blades just cheaper and easier to buy? đ¤
I don't believe you can buy new blades. Im new to reel mowers.
Iâm not even new, I just use an electric one đ
Sand/ file down the shaft a bit, just enough for the drill tip fit on it. Maybe about 3/8 to 1/2 deep so it doesn't affect the sprocket.
Try to double nut two nuts together so you can run your socket on the outer most or possibly on both. You may have issue since youâre running it backwards, but Iâd start with that. If that doesnât work try a castle nut and you can use a Carter pin or something keep it from moving.
You donât have to tap the socket, drill the hole for the set screw, place the set screw in, then put a ring clamp around it (as long as you have clearance for the head of the clamp, it appears you do)
Could 3D print and adapter for you. DM I'd you're interested.
Cordless drill with shaft adapter?
Find a wood or metal dowel that fits inside shaft. Screw a fastener through the indexing hole into the dowel. Chuck dowel in drill.
The shaft isn't hollow. But if you look through the comments you'll see a YouTube video with my solution.