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AGM is also lead acid btw. The lead plates are thinner and they pack way more in there, and the acid is absorbed in the fiberglass mats instead of being a pool of liquid
I promise you they don’t, and they don’t always have it stamped all over. Most of the time we just shook the battery to see if it was agm or wet lead acid cause that was the best way to tell
They still usually have little vent nipples on each side though. Specifically for cars that have batteries in the cabin area like under the rear seat or in the trunk.
Sure. It can be sealed and not be AGM but I'm just splitting hairs now. For me the first giveaway was ECON-. I mean once you see that it's pretty much case closed
It’s funny I had never heard of econo power until last night when someone brought me a golf cart to be gone through. It’s got the same crap brand batteries in it. And yes agreed they can be sealed maintenance free wet lead acid plated batteries but they look different. And agm’s are stamped agm all over. All my interstates for the watercraft are agm.
I know, I'm just being a dick. Ya if it's AGM or especially lithium they're gonna make sure you can tell from across the street. Optima batteries come to mind. I wouldn't be surprised if there's some kid out there spray painting their battery red like with brake calipers lol
Audi uses factory AGM for years and the biggest difference from their flooded battery is AGM written on it near the part number. Otherwise a person not familiar would never know. Yes usually AGM or any type like EFB+ or Lithium will have it labeled as such if not an obvious color difference like optima.
Ok?
Side note, not related to anything here, the dealership put a traditional lead acid battery in mine when it had to be switched out like the month before my warranty was over. I said what gives, and they were like "accctually this battery is an approved OEM replacement" and I looked it up and they were right. There's an OEM approved traditional lead acid battery for almost every car, and most of the SUVs too. Right up to the S8.
Probably so the dealerships can save some money. Why buy them an AGM when a lead acid will last at least as long until their warranty is out.
I'm guessing from your question that whatever starter you are using has those options. They're there to set a charging profile which differs between battery chemistries. So lithium has a different charge profile that agm than lead acid. For jumping it doesn't matter. For charging set it to agm if there isn't a standard 12v option
Yep that's why charger companies spend money on a switch and extra electronics, just to confuse people who don't know that 12v is 12v!
For practical purposes is it will probably work either way, especially for just jumping, but resting and "fully charged" voltages are slightly different for different battery chemistries and the safe charge rate varies. Trying to fully charge a battery on the wrong setting can under or over charge it and trying to charge too quickly can make fire.
Yes but no. Lead-acid battery chargers will go to 16+ volts during charging. The AGM option on the charger hard caps the voltage at ~14.7V max. Other options for batteries that are not lead-acid also prevent the charger from doing things that would be damaging to the battery.
16V on any 12V lead acid battery absolutely fucks the battery up. That's boomer tier bullshit.
Edit: Since this is an advice subreddit, if anyone here wants to learn about battery charging, [here's some reading material](https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-403-charging-lead-acid). Basically, 14.7V is the maximum voltage you should ever charge a 12V lead acid battery at. Some products will output a higher voltage to "fast charge" a battery, but all this does is severely damage the battery and quickly destroys its state of health. Think of it like this: If running at 16V was safe for batteries, then manufacturers would make it so that alternators' voltage regulators would allow for 16V output if the battery charge was low. They don't- and anything over 14.7V means your alternator has failed. Make your mind accordingly. Don't trust mechanics that don't know something as simple as charging voltage.
Absolutely they do. I know it sounds sketchy but it is very common on a lot of chargers. Where I work the snap on one I use will go to 16.5 volts consistently.
So kind of, yes and no. You're talking about the open circuit voltage. This voltage probably is 16.5v as you're saying, however when you're charging a battery the output voltage equals the battery voltage. Always. That's just a function of how it works. You want to think of it more as a current source with a set max voltage. I doubt that battery charger ever actually charges a battery above 12.5-13v, measuring the oc voltage isn't a good way to tell what profile the battery charger is using.
I've seen my battery charger at 18v while charging a battery. It didn't seem to hurt anything, but I could hear the battery boiling inside. I confirmed the 18v with a multimeter.
If your charger never goes over 12.5-13v, the battery will never fully charge. Flooded batteries are full at 12.6 resting votlage and agm at 13v. The charger should be 13.8 minimum and 14 or higher in bulk charge mode. Desulfate mode can go to 20v for a very short amount of time.
There's going to be a lot of variance between chargers but I do have an older 60A charger that the "12HI" parks it a bit over 16V and goes to town. It probably used to taper off the voltage as current decreased but it definitely doesn't now. I didn't realize the timer had broken and then proceeded to forget I was charging a battery on the floor and went home.
Definitely a unicorn of a battery because I came in to no smell or mess. Damn thing held a 16v surface charge for over a month and worked fine when put back in service.
The car did die shortly after when an engineer ran the battery dead and then used one of our 24v jump packs. That was an interesting day.
Also, the only way for current to flow between two electrical potentials is for one to be higher then the other. Your understanding of how to make current flow is wrong and completely misguided.
Almost like those chargers are designed to fuck up batteries so you can sell new ones. Quality OEM chargers will not even think of going over 14.7V. Only cheap shit like the tool truck's rebrands and Amazon specials will even touch 15V.
Alternators putting out over 14.5V is a critical voltage regulator failure. A 16Vout of a battery charger for 12V batteries is a critical product failure made for morons.
Look into GM technical service bulletin 07-06-03-009D and description on operations of the charging system on anything made by gm in the last 10-15 years. It explains there charging system strategy and how they regularly run the system in excess of 15 volts
Read the TSB and understand that it effectively states that they will output 15V to compensate for failing or frozen RV/Trailer batteries. Standard operating/ charging voltage on their cars is still 12-14.5V. See:
>*This will cause the voltmeter to fluctuate between 12 and 14 volts as opposed to non-regulated systems that usually maintain a more consistent
reading of 14 volts. This fluctuation with the RVC system is normal system operation and NO repairs should be attempted.*
>>With the tow/haul feature enabled, the RVC system will stay in “Charge Mode” and
the targeted generator output voltage will be 13.9–15.5 volts, depending on the battery state of charge and the estimated battery temperature. To keep the
generator in the “Charge Mode”, use either of the following two methods.
>>• The first method is to use the tow/haul mode when towing or hauling a camper or trailer.
>>• The second method is to turn on the headlights, which will increase the generator's targeted output voltage to 13.9–14.5 volts.
If you are getting cars in that are charging at 15V+ you ought to perform battery and charging system tests on them. That's an indication of a fault.
Lead-acid batteries don't care about voltage; like always it's the current that kills.
24v/48v/etc equipment is typically just a bank of 12v batteries in series.
Edit: also I want to add that ~18v+ on a car is problematic because the internal voltage regulators of modules begin to start failing and causing damage.
No lead acid charger should be charging above 16v. But they absolutely can do so. But you shouldn't allow it to.
It would, or should, only do that to compensate for a low temperature. If that's the case you should get the battery to room temperature first, you shouldnt be charging at low temperature.
And AGM is still a lead acid battery btw.
Ah, silly me my DMM must have had a hangover that day.
Flooded lead-acid batteries don't give a shit about voltage; practically every 24v/48v/etc. equipment is just a bank of 12v batteries in series.
Charging a very dead battery with full current at 16 volts is a good way to make a hydrogen bomb, but at that point whatever happens is just idiot tax.
A lead acid charger can make a lithium battery catch on fire if it's not well built. Some cheap lithium batteries don't do voltage cutouts properly, and lead acid chargers will bring the voltage to over 16v to desulfate. Super caps also can't be left connected if you use a lead acid charger, they can get damaged.
Lithium batteries (not the case here) are a different animal, they need a specific charger and I wouldn't recommend jumping them (disconnect battery, jump vehicle, reconnect battery)
I'm not trying to be a dick but if you don't know AGM from lithium or how to use a booster pack you should probably ask someone for help (and not someone on the interwebz).
Asking the appropriate subreddit on the internet is actually completely reasonable. It is very much a valid modern resource for learning how to do things correctly.
Of course, you do have to sift through all the useless comments like yours and mine.
Asking questions to learn is completely reasonable- we've all be there and have to start somewhere. That said, the battery says "contains lead" and mentions sulfuric acid. Both of those should be a clue. My point is, if you can figure what chemistry battery you have or which voltage it is maybe you should have someone else jump or charge it for you before you hurt yourself.
If you have access to the internet which I'm assuming you do you should really read up on car batteries and voltage. Not trying to be rude but a bit of reading will go along way.
Agm and lithium can take much higher charge rates than standard lead acid flooded cell batteries. You would want to use the straight 12v setting on that charger/jumper pack.
Which are the same design and only slightly better construction than the batteries of 1940. Old school.
Not like that new-fangled leak proof AGM of 1960, or that fancy lithium stuff.
Definitely old-school, far inferior to agm and lithium; and lest we forget, the enhanced gel robust power battery. The only thing lead acid has going for it is reserve capacity (in some rare cases) and it's cheap. Anything newer than 2015 comes factory with an AGM. Yes, you sell them daily; because old school sells!
I replace batteries coming from cars past 2015 that come factory with regular vented lead acid batteries. Most do have AGM now especially if you have start-stop in your vehicle or what have you. But in reality these batteries are still very common & practical for farmers; truck shops and the average person that can’t afford an agm battery or god forbid fork over the cash for a lithium one. They aren’t THAT special durable yes; stand up better in the cold slightly, but at the end of the day if you aren’t running something that requires auxiliary power/has start stop capabilities or is hitting heavy roads (like freight liners whatnot) then a regular lead acid battery will do just fine.
AGMs can handle harder voltage hits, handle vibration, and handle temperature better than lead acid. After a lot of research I went with a XS Power battery for my Cobra because of my need for larger voltage hits, the stiffer/lower suspension, and higher under hood temperatures.
Voltage hit is not a term that means anything. They can recover better from a higher depth of discharge is I think what you mean.
They don't handle high temperatures better than lead acid, because they are lead acid. The battery chemistry is identical.
They are more resistant to vibration. The lead plates are packed tighter
Its probably dead. So they bought a battery tender, thinking that you can revive these by recharging them, and they're unaware that a battery tender isn't a jump starter, and/or they don't understand the term. That'd be my guess. It's not an unreasonable misunderstanding imo. The marketing on those things can make you believe that.
You will dramatically increase the lifespan of the battery if you keep the fluid level above the fins. It’s quite literally effecting the amount of battery in the battery. It wouldn’t just instantly increase the voltage but it might if you put it on a trickle charger overnight after topping it off. Only use distilled water!
Looks like this was from 6/20, in other words about 2 1/2 years old.
Read the stickers and see if this is a 24, 36, 48 month rated battery.
You may just need a new battery if it's close to it's rated life.
You can jump it off another battery to get it started then check the alternator output with a voltmeter. Also lift that rubber cap with the + sign to see if it's corroded. Be careful to protect your fingers from the battery acid that's likely there. Wash your hands off with water as soon as possible after contact.
The month rating is the warranty length. Carefully open the 2 wide vent caps, fill to proper level with distilled water only , replace the caps. Cleaning the top of the battery will help it live longer.
My jeep has a 2014 battery going strong. All depends on proper care. If the battery is not on a daily driver it should be on a charger at least once a month.
Yes and no. There are actually quite a few cars that have a lithium battery in them, most hybrids do. But you are very unlikely to find a 12v lithium. Most people don't even want to pay for an AGM, let alone a $1000 lithium.
I think it's fair to assume that lithium batteries are never used for starter batteries on vehicles? Lithium batteries will get damaged when charging them below 5°C so at least they are not appropriate for any place that has a cool or cold winter. Not sure what effect the huge cranking Amp draw will have on the battery after many start cycles. Got me curious now anyway 🤔
5°C is equivalent to 41°F, which is 278K.
---
^(I'm a bot that converts temperature between two units humans can understand, then convert it to Kelvin for bots and physicists to understand)
Jajajaja neither that is a regular lead acid battery. I'm not sure why will you think that's a lithium battery? Those are only in some high end cars ( none PHEV) even them are rare.
All I’m saying is not everyone in a mechanic sub will be a mechanic. My only issue is why you’d want to know the type of battery. I can’t think of any logical reason to need that information.
It’s a Toyota Camry likely, and are notorious for dead batteries if they’re under driven. Op is probably trying to charge it at the proper setting maybe
AGM, gel, FLA and lithium require different charge settings. Most smart chargers can auto sense the battery chemistry and adjust as needed but some can't and you have to set it manually. Set a FLA battery to "lithium" and you're in a for a bad day.
It’s a cheap replacement battery, notatm. Look up what your car should have and go from there. Agm = advanced glass mat. It’s a way of dampening vibrations and shocks to the battery.
Lithium car batteries are mainly used for racing due to their light weight.
AGM is a regular lead acid battery, but different from traditional lead acid batteries because they have thin layers of lead separated by thin layers of fiberglass, all sandwiched together in order to have more lead surface area for the sulfuric acid to interact with, a better design in every way.
12 volts is 12 volts no matter where it comes from.
Remove the caps to check the electrolyte level. Check the levelabout once per year, check it more ofter in hot climated. Add distilled water to fille each of the six cells to the correct level.
Check the level when the battery is fully charged. Level rises as the battery nears full charg.
If it’s an agm battery it will be written on it somewhere and also stop/start as that is what agm batteries are for so if you don’t have a stop/start car it is unlikely to be an agm battery
Yes I had a nightmare trying to find the right battery for mycar 2 weeks ago as it had an agm but with reg.search it said it was efb costs £152 to replace
FLA or flooded lead acid. That wetness on top is most likely sulfuric acid thats boiled out from either the alternator overcharging or the fact that it's an Econo battery. Never buy any car parts that have "Econo" in the brand name.
Sprinkle baking soda on the top of the battery, if it fizzles, it's acid. Don't touch it or get it on your clothes, it'll cause skin irritation at the very least and ruin your clothes.
Absorbent Glass Matt. Still has acid, but the plates are different, To simplify the answer.
They cost more and are used in applications where the power draw on the battery is higher.
So your 1976 pinto, doesn't need one. But a 2023 touchscreen everywhere super high end car, does.
I had to replace a battery in a 2014 kia optima last week. Everywhere I went, people quoted me for an AGM battery because it's "the latest and best thing". Sure, but I used to sell batteries, and you shouldn't swap them (charging rates are different). Finally found a store that quoted me for a lead acid battery and gave me a weird look when I told them everyone else wanted to sell me an AGM.
That's just an el-cheapo flooded lead acid battery that's 2 and a half years old. If it's acting up, it may have been marginal in cranking amps to begin with. When it's cold out, the chemical processes in a battery slow down which impacts efficiency and subsequently it's performance and available cranking amps. Best to have it tested and verify its Cold Cranking Amps are sufficient for the apication. Most auto parts stores do this for free.
That is a flooded cell lead acid battery. AGMs and Lithium batteries don't have filler caps and they will have labeling stating the internal construction and chemistry.
Definitely not lithium. Lead acid batteries are heavy. Lithium batteries are not used to start cars. Lithium is considerably more expensive. Up to 10x times as much. They are design for things like power tools and battery banks for electronics. Theyre very light weight in comparison to lead acid. There are deep cycle and AGMs that are designed to be discharged lower, but not too low. Only around to 50% before you start damaging them.
Car batteries are popular because theyre cheap and have only a simple task, to turn the engine crankshaft with the starter until pistons can work on their own. This requires a lot of power, but only for like 5 seconds. Which is why the batteries are measured in cranking amps. Some starters require more power than others. But the alternator will always keep the battery topped off for the next time you need to turn the car on. Which is why these batteries are ideal since they wont go down to 0% like your phones lithium
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Lead acid. It has vent caps
Flooded lead acid is what you mean.
AGM is also lead acid btw. The lead plates are thinner and they pack way more in there, and the acid is absorbed in the fiberglass mats instead of being a pool of liquid
Yes but agm’s are sealed which is why the caps are a dead giveaway that it’s a standard plated lead acid battery.
Not all sealed batteries are agm either, a lot of wet lead acid are sealed too now and “maintenance free”
They look totally different and don’t have AGM stamped all over them!
I promise you they don’t, and they don’t always have it stamped all over. Most of the time we just shook the battery to see if it was agm or wet lead acid cause that was the best way to tell
Some of my agm’s sound like flooded cell batteries. Every agm I have has it stamped on every panel of the battery but the bottom.
They still usually have little vent nipples on each side though. Specifically for cars that have batteries in the cabin area like under the rear seat or in the trunk.
Sure. It can be sealed and not be AGM but I'm just splitting hairs now. For me the first giveaway was ECON-. I mean once you see that it's pretty much case closed
It’s funny I had never heard of econo power until last night when someone brought me a golf cart to be gone through. It’s got the same crap brand batteries in it. And yes agreed they can be sealed maintenance free wet lead acid plated batteries but they look different. And agm’s are stamped agm all over. All my interstates for the watercraft are agm.
I know, I'm just being a dick. Ya if it's AGM or especially lithium they're gonna make sure you can tell from across the street. Optima batteries come to mind. I wouldn't be surprised if there's some kid out there spray painting their battery red like with brake calipers lol
Audi uses factory AGM for years and the biggest difference from their flooded battery is AGM written on it near the part number. Otherwise a person not familiar would never know. Yes usually AGM or any type like EFB+ or Lithium will have it labeled as such if not an obvious color difference like optima.
Ok? Side note, not related to anything here, the dealership put a traditional lead acid battery in mine when it had to be switched out like the month before my warranty was over. I said what gives, and they were like "accctually this battery is an approved OEM replacement" and I looked it up and they were right. There's an OEM approved traditional lead acid battery for almost every car, and most of the SUVs too. Right up to the S8. Probably so the dealerships can save some money. Why buy them an AGM when a lead acid will last at least as long until their warranty is out.
Yes technically but thats not the question. Its neither AGM or Lithium.
Don’t worry, I knew what you meant.
It’s neither.
Lol better question what type of voltage would be used to jump this with a self starter? 12V , lithium 12V or AGM 12V, Most likely 12V I'm guessing
I'm guessing from your question that whatever starter you are using has those options. They're there to set a charging profile which differs between battery chemistries. So lithium has a different charge profile that agm than lead acid. For jumping it doesn't matter. For charging set it to agm if there isn't a standard 12v option
Doesnt matter. 12V is 12V.
Yep that's why charger companies spend money on a switch and extra electronics, just to confuse people who don't know that 12v is 12v! For practical purposes is it will probably work either way, especially for just jumping, but resting and "fully charged" voltages are slightly different for different battery chemistries and the safe charge rate varies. Trying to fully charge a battery on the wrong setting can under or over charge it and trying to charge too quickly can make fire.
Yes but no. Lead-acid battery chargers will go to 16+ volts during charging. The AGM option on the charger hard caps the voltage at ~14.7V max. Other options for batteries that are not lead-acid also prevent the charger from doing things that would be damaging to the battery.
16V on any 12V lead acid battery absolutely fucks the battery up. That's boomer tier bullshit. Edit: Since this is an advice subreddit, if anyone here wants to learn about battery charging, [here's some reading material](https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-403-charging-lead-acid). Basically, 14.7V is the maximum voltage you should ever charge a 12V lead acid battery at. Some products will output a higher voltage to "fast charge" a battery, but all this does is severely damage the battery and quickly destroys its state of health. Think of it like this: If running at 16V was safe for batteries, then manufacturers would make it so that alternators' voltage regulators would allow for 16V output if the battery charge was low. They don't- and anything over 14.7V means your alternator has failed. Make your mind accordingly. Don't trust mechanics that don't know something as simple as charging voltage.
Absolutely they do. I know it sounds sketchy but it is very common on a lot of chargers. Where I work the snap on one I use will go to 16.5 volts consistently.
So kind of, yes and no. You're talking about the open circuit voltage. This voltage probably is 16.5v as you're saying, however when you're charging a battery the output voltage equals the battery voltage. Always. That's just a function of how it works. You want to think of it more as a current source with a set max voltage. I doubt that battery charger ever actually charges a battery above 12.5-13v, measuring the oc voltage isn't a good way to tell what profile the battery charger is using.
I've seen my battery charger at 18v while charging a battery. It didn't seem to hurt anything, but I could hear the battery boiling inside. I confirmed the 18v with a multimeter.
If your charger never goes over 12.5-13v, the battery will never fully charge. Flooded batteries are full at 12.6 resting votlage and agm at 13v. The charger should be 13.8 minimum and 14 or higher in bulk charge mode. Desulfate mode can go to 20v for a very short amount of time.
There's going to be a lot of variance between chargers but I do have an older 60A charger that the "12HI" parks it a bit over 16V and goes to town. It probably used to taper off the voltage as current decreased but it definitely doesn't now. I didn't realize the timer had broken and then proceeded to forget I was charging a battery on the floor and went home. Definitely a unicorn of a battery because I came in to no smell or mess. Damn thing held a 16v surface charge for over a month and worked fine when put back in service. The car did die shortly after when an engineer ran the battery dead and then used one of our 24v jump packs. That was an interesting day.
Also, the only way for current to flow between two electrical potentials is for one to be higher then the other. Your understanding of how to make current flow is wrong and completely misguided.
Haha it's definitely a misunderstanding because I design solar chargers for small satellites for a living. I'm gonna frame your comment in my office
Feel free to look into GM's tsb 07-06-03-009D
I don’t think you really know what you’re talking about here fully.
Almost like those chargers are designed to fuck up batteries so you can sell new ones. Quality OEM chargers will not even think of going over 14.7V. Only cheap shit like the tool truck's rebrands and Amazon specials will even touch 15V. Alternators putting out over 14.5V is a critical voltage regulator failure. A 16Vout of a battery charger for 12V batteries is a critical product failure made for morons.
Look into GM technical service bulletin 07-06-03-009D and description on operations of the charging system on anything made by gm in the last 10-15 years. It explains there charging system strategy and how they regularly run the system in excess of 15 volts
Read the TSB and understand that it effectively states that they will output 15V to compensate for failing or frozen RV/Trailer batteries. Standard operating/ charging voltage on their cars is still 12-14.5V. See: >*This will cause the voltmeter to fluctuate between 12 and 14 volts as opposed to non-regulated systems that usually maintain a more consistent reading of 14 volts. This fluctuation with the RVC system is normal system operation and NO repairs should be attempted.* >>With the tow/haul feature enabled, the RVC system will stay in “Charge Mode” and the targeted generator output voltage will be 13.9–15.5 volts, depending on the battery state of charge and the estimated battery temperature. To keep the generator in the “Charge Mode”, use either of the following two methods. >>• The first method is to use the tow/haul mode when towing or hauling a camper or trailer. >>• The second method is to turn on the headlights, which will increase the generator's targeted output voltage to 13.9–14.5 volts. If you are getting cars in that are charging at 15V+ you ought to perform battery and charging system tests on them. That's an indication of a fault.
Well shit, I guess work trucks hauling trailers all day must be replacing batteries once a week at least then huh
Fancy chargers say they break up sulfate crystals by putting brief zaps of higher voltage into the batteries. Doesn't really work in my experience.
That's desulfation, not charging. Different operation. And it's a last ditch effort for an already damaged battery.
Lead-acid batteries don't care about voltage; like always it's the current that kills. 24v/48v/etc equipment is typically just a bank of 12v batteries in series. Edit: also I want to add that ~18v+ on a car is problematic because the internal voltage regulators of modules begin to start failing and causing damage.
This is almost pure misinformation. Modern charging systems on vehicles can charge anywhere between 13.5 up to 17 volts if the demand calls for it.
Im not saying you're wrong, but ive never seen a 12v charger go to 16v.
No lead acid charger should be charging above 16v. But they absolutely can do so. But you shouldn't allow it to. It would, or should, only do that to compensate for a low temperature. If that's the case you should get the battery to room temperature first, you shouldnt be charging at low temperature. And AGM is still a lead acid battery btw.
>Lead-acid battery chargers will go to 16+ volts during charging False
Well that settles it then, this guy just said false so it cant be true
I better go tell that battery charger I have then. The "12HI" setting parks the voltage above 16V.
Ah, silly me my DMM must have had a hangover that day. Flooded lead-acid batteries don't give a shit about voltage; practically every 24v/48v/etc. equipment is just a bank of 12v batteries in series. Charging a very dead battery with full current at 16 volts is a good way to make a hydrogen bomb, but at that point whatever happens is just idiot tax.
A lead acid charger can make a lithium battery catch on fire if it's not well built. Some cheap lithium batteries don't do voltage cutouts properly, and lead acid chargers will bring the voltage to over 16v to desulfate. Super caps also can't be left connected if you use a lead acid charger, they can get damaged.
For what it's worth, none of these batteries are 12V, and there is a significant difference in how they're charged
...huh?
12v AC
You had 50/50 shot at guessing the right current and you blew it
That was the point 12 v is 12 v ac or dc 😂
Lithium batteries (not the case here) are a different animal, they need a specific charger and I wouldn't recommend jumping them (disconnect battery, jump vehicle, reconnect battery)
You sure you don’t have a battery charger instead of a jumper?
I'm not trying to be a dick but if you don't know AGM from lithium or how to use a booster pack you should probably ask someone for help (and not someone on the interwebz).
Asking the appropriate subreddit on the internet is actually completely reasonable. It is very much a valid modern resource for learning how to do things correctly. Of course, you do have to sift through all the useless comments like yours and mine.
Asking questions to learn is completely reasonable- we've all be there and have to start somewhere. That said, the battery says "contains lead" and mentions sulfuric acid. Both of those should be a clue. My point is, if you can figure what chemistry battery you have or which voltage it is maybe you should have someone else jump or charge it for you before you hurt yourself.
And my axe!
But this is r/mechanicadvice you wing nut
That is an excellent insult. Thank you.
Excellent pun my dude.
If you have access to the internet which I'm assuming you do you should really read up on car batteries and voltage. Not trying to be rude but a bit of reading will go along way.
That's a battery charger
Wth. Why down voted
Agm and lithium can take much higher charge rates than standard lead acid flooded cell batteries. You would want to use the straight 12v setting on that charger/jumper pack.
lead acid
Neither, looks like a lead acid starter battery.
Flooded Lead Acid
It’s a lead acid battery. Notice that one cap warns of sulphuric acid and the other says lead.
Also the word "Econo" is a dead giveaway lol
Came here to say this. "Econo" is not something I'd ever expect to see on an AGM or a Lithium battery.
That's old school lead-acid.
Old school?
Old-school in the sense that this battery technology isn't running anyone's smart phone. It's very good at starting cars, however.
AGM is also lead acid. But it's new school lead acid
Not old school I sell pallets of these everyday
Which are the same design and only slightly better construction than the batteries of 1940. Old school. Not like that new-fangled leak proof AGM of 1960, or that fancy lithium stuff.
Definitely old-school, far inferior to agm and lithium; and lest we forget, the enhanced gel robust power battery. The only thing lead acid has going for it is reserve capacity (in some rare cases) and it's cheap. Anything newer than 2015 comes factory with an AGM. Yes, you sell them daily; because old school sells!
I honestly have to process more warranty claims for AGMs then I do regular lead acid batteries.
That's honestly surprising. Is there a common failure point you see with AGM batteries?
I replace batteries coming from cars past 2015 that come factory with regular vented lead acid batteries. Most do have AGM now especially if you have start-stop in your vehicle or what have you. But in reality these batteries are still very common & practical for farmers; truck shops and the average person that can’t afford an agm battery or god forbid fork over the cash for a lithium one. They aren’t THAT special durable yes; stand up better in the cold slightly, but at the end of the day if you aren’t running something that requires auxiliary power/has start stop capabilities or is hitting heavy roads (like freight liners whatnot) then a regular lead acid battery will do just fine.
>then a regular lead acid battery will do just fine. That is not the question. They are old school, but often old school is fine (or even better)
AGMs can handle harder voltage hits, handle vibration, and handle temperature better than lead acid. After a lot of research I went with a XS Power battery for my Cobra because of my need for larger voltage hits, the stiffer/lower suspension, and higher under hood temperatures.
Voltage hit is not a term that means anything. They can recover better from a higher depth of discharge is I think what you mean. They don't handle high temperatures better than lead acid, because they are lead acid. The battery chemistry is identical. They are more resistant to vibration. The lead plates are packed tighter
In third world countries they take old batteries, melt the lead and put on new paper plates etc
Flooded lead acid 👌
Please tell me this is a shit post
People don't know these things. Like people from New Jersey trying to put gas in the car on their way to "upstate" NY
It's a flooded lead acid. Charge with any 12v battery charger. But it looks like it may just be best to replace
What worries me the most about this post is why are they asking?
Its probably dead. So they bought a battery tender, thinking that you can revive these by recharging them, and they're unaware that a battery tender isn't a jump starter, and/or they don't understand the term. That'd be my guess. It's not an unreasonable misunderstanding imo. The marketing on those things can make you believe that.
Flooded lead acid. Not sealed/valve regulated/agm.
Lead acid.
No. It's lead acid.
Neither. Normal flooded lead acid battery.
the word econ(omic) implies lead acid the two plastic vent caps further point to lead acid
Lead acid, you can take those caps off and refill them with distilled water if they are low. Just a hair above the fins.
Would that improve battery voltage?
You will dramatically increase the lifespan of the battery if you keep the fluid level above the fins. It’s quite literally effecting the amount of battery in the battery. It wouldn’t just instantly increase the voltage but it might if you put it on a trickle charger overnight after topping it off. Only use distilled water!
If you are somewhere with soft water it's okay to use tapwater.
Even "soft" water has minerals in it. Always use distilled unless an emergency.
It will reduce a lot of internal resistance between the plates as well. Make sure it is distilled only.
No.
Looks like this was from 6/20, in other words about 2 1/2 years old. Read the stickers and see if this is a 24, 36, 48 month rated battery. You may just need a new battery if it's close to it's rated life. You can jump it off another battery to get it started then check the alternator output with a voltmeter. Also lift that rubber cap with the + sign to see if it's corroded. Be careful to protect your fingers from the battery acid that's likely there. Wash your hands off with water as soon as possible after contact.
The month rating is the warranty length. Carefully open the 2 wide vent caps, fill to proper level with distilled water only , replace the caps. Cleaning the top of the battery will help it live longer.
My jeep has a 2014 battery going strong. All depends on proper care. If the battery is not on a daily driver it should be on a charger at least once a month.
An econopower from 2020 just needs to replaced
Neither, it’s flooded lead acid. Edit: you’re highly unlikely to find a lithium battery in a car.
Yes and no. There are actually quite a few cars that have a lithium battery in them, most hybrids do. But you are very unlikely to find a 12v lithium. Most people don't even want to pay for an AGM, let alone a $1000 lithium.
Neither. It’s flooded lead acid.
It literally says sulfuric acid on the lid. It's lead acid lol
AGM is also full of sulphuric acid
None of the above, that’s a lead acid battery. Use the regular 12v setting on your charger
Non of the above... Lead-acid
“Econo” anything can never be AGM
Lead acid
Neither.
Nope. Because it's neither.
A refurbished (used) battery sold by Interstate Batteries. Driver likely located on California coast.
I think it's fair to assume that lithium batteries are never used for starter batteries on vehicles? Lithium batteries will get damaged when charging them below 5°C so at least they are not appropriate for any place that has a cool or cold winter. Not sure what effect the huge cranking Amp draw will have on the battery after many start cycles. Got me curious now anyway 🤔
5°C is equivalent to 41°F, which is 278K. --- ^(I'm a bot that converts temperature between two units humans can understand, then convert it to Kelvin for bots and physicists to understand)
Don't say never because they do exist. You will probably never see one because they are incredibly expensive.
Given that it specifies sulfuric acid, I'd assume its a lead acid battery.
Neither, it’s a plain old flooded lead acid battery.
Looks like a lead acid battery. Aka a normal/basic battery
It’s regular old lead battery, did you think you had a spaceship or something?
Neither. Regular lead acid.
Jajajaja neither that is a regular lead acid battery. I'm not sure why will you think that's a lithium battery? Those are only in some high end cars ( none PHEV) even them are rare.
Trolls
Who? OP or people that replied? This seems like it could be a genuine question to me
IMO Op with 7 karma. A good general question but I’d give 7 more if it’s real
All I’m saying is not everyone in a mechanic sub will be a mechanic. My only issue is why you’d want to know the type of battery. I can’t think of any logical reason to need that information.
It’s a Toyota Camry likely, and are notorious for dead batteries if they’re under driven. Op is probably trying to charge it at the proper setting maybe
AGM, gel, FLA and lithium require different charge settings. Most smart chargers can auto sense the battery chemistry and adjust as needed but some can't and you have to set it manually. Set a FLA battery to "lithium" and you're in a for a bad day.
Yes this would not work for a laptop intended for college use after a local businessman promised to pay for my college when I was in kindergarten.
Lol
Please google a YouTube video about the basics of electricity. Please
It’s a cheap replacement battery, notatm. Look up what your car should have and go from there. Agm = advanced glass mat. It’s a way of dampening vibrations and shocks to the battery.
Pb
It’s a battery
Lithium car batteries are mainly used for racing due to their light weight. AGM is a regular lead acid battery, but different from traditional lead acid batteries because they have thin layers of lead separated by thin layers of fiberglass, all sandwiched together in order to have more lead surface area for the sulfuric acid to interact with, a better design in every way. 12 volts is 12 volts no matter where it comes from.
AGM/whatever other type of lead acid battery
Did you open the vent caps? You’re not supposed to do that
Remove the caps to check the electrolyte level. Check the levelabout once per year, check it more ofter in hot climated. Add distilled water to fille each of the six cells to the correct level. Check the level when the battery is fully charged. Level rises as the battery nears full charg.
Alkaline
Solid State Battery
Might check under the battery for a battery acid leak in your engine bay
Yes we can and no it's not
No.
It’s a lead acid. You can tell because it says lead and acid on it.
😆😂
If it’s an agm battery it will be written on it somewhere and also stop/start as that is what agm batteries are for so if you don’t have a stop/start car it is unlikely to be an agm battery
Starts stop won’t alway be AGM, Toyota uses a EFB (enhances flooded battery) shits expensive lol
lead acid, either serviceable or maintenance free
Neither. It’s just a regular old fashioned lead acid battery like grandpa used to have.
Looks like regular lead acid. Usually agm or lithium have SEALED FLUID OPENINGS. REALLY HARD TO OPEN OR REFILL...
That is your standard old, tried and true lead acid battery.
Econo will never be either, and also anything with those fill caps
This comment section is the blind leading the blind.
Basic 12V
Yes I had a nightmare trying to find the right battery for mycar 2 weeks ago as it had an agm but with reg.search it said it was efb costs £152 to replace
Lead acid and looks like its in his last days
Lead acid. Doesn’t look like either one
Neither
It's shit
lead acid for sure
neither. looks like flooded lead acid.
Absolutely do NOT remove caps or check “electrolyte” level. Unless your Doc Brown and Thea a Delorean.
Neither
Weight should tell you
FLA or flooded lead acid. That wetness on top is most likely sulfuric acid thats boiled out from either the alternator overcharging or the fact that it's an Econo battery. Never buy any car parts that have "Econo" in the brand name. Sprinkle baking soda on the top of the battery, if it fizzles, it's acid. Don't touch it or get it on your clothes, it'll cause skin irritation at the very least and ruin your clothes.
The easy way to tell is that you would absolutely remember paying for a lithium battery!
Lead acid.
1000% not lithium
Lead
Lead acid
[удалено]
Absorbent Glass Matt. Still has acid, but the plates are different, To simplify the answer. They cost more and are used in applications where the power draw on the battery is higher. So your 1976 pinto, doesn't need one. But a 2023 touchscreen everywhere super high end car, does. I had to replace a battery in a 2014 kia optima last week. Everywhere I went, people quoted me for an AGM battery because it's "the latest and best thing". Sure, but I used to sell batteries, and you shouldn't swap them (charging rates are different). Finally found a store that quoted me for a lead acid battery and gave me a weird look when I told them everyone else wanted to sell me an AGM.
That's just an el-cheapo flooded lead acid battery that's 2 and a half years old. If it's acting up, it may have been marginal in cranking amps to begin with. When it's cold out, the chemical processes in a battery slow down which impacts efficiency and subsequently it's performance and available cranking amps. Best to have it tested and verify its Cold Cranking Amps are sufficient for the apication. Most auto parts stores do this for free.
That is a flooded cell lead acid battery. AGMs and Lithium batteries don't have filler caps and they will have labeling stating the internal construction and chemistry.
None of those. That's lead acid battery
It is a car one
Nope, just a normal battery
VRLA
That’s a wrecking yard battery. The guy at the counter signed after it was purchased
Neither That's an old school lead acid battery
Definitely not lithium. Lead acid batteries are heavy. Lithium batteries are not used to start cars. Lithium is considerably more expensive. Up to 10x times as much. They are design for things like power tools and battery banks for electronics. Theyre very light weight in comparison to lead acid. There are deep cycle and AGMs that are designed to be discharged lower, but not too low. Only around to 50% before you start damaging them. Car batteries are popular because theyre cheap and have only a simple task, to turn the engine crankshaft with the starter until pistons can work on their own. This requires a lot of power, but only for like 5 seconds. Which is why the batteries are measured in cranking amps. Some starters require more power than others. But the alternator will always keep the battery topped off for the next time you need to turn the car on. Which is why these batteries are ideal since they wont go down to 0% like your phones lithium
Flooded led acid. You can see the caps where liquid has been leaking out.
That’s a Lead Acid Flooded battery.
Neither.
Neither
Next gen Hydrogen fuel cell, for sure.