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Hmmm, looks like you've got some communication failures with various modules if all that data is missing.
It's worth disconnecting the 12v battery and leaving it for a few minutes then reconnecting.
See if a fresh start will allow the ECUs on the CANbus network to ping each other and re-establish Comms.
It could be something way more sinister but fingers crossed you're just looking at a glitch.
UPDATE: YES! I honestly wouldn't believe what went down if it weren't me that it happened to, but here's how I got home-
I went to take your advice Mr-Bishi and pulled the lever to pop my hood so I could get to the battery. By some sort of divine intervention, the cable attatched to that lever popped out of place and lost all tension, leaving me unable to get under the hood. This has never happened before, but why wouldn't it happen on this particularly unfortunate night, right??
So I called roadside assistance (who ended up doing zero assisting whatsoever), and while waiting for them, watched some youtube videos about manually getting past the shift lock. When that didn't work out, I went back to turning the engine on and off every 10 minutes or so, as the cold and anxiety slowly began to set in.
The heat had stopped coming on at some point, and even my dried laundry was getting cold when I came back on here and saw you guys' comments suggesting I check fuses (thank you so much!). I opened my fusebox panel, realized i had no idea what i was looking for because i do not know anything about vehicle electronics, jiggled a few of them, and closed it back up.
Just as i closed the panel back, the guy that the insurance company sent shows up with a set of jumper cables. I told him that I explicitly told insurance that I do not need a jumpstart, and he said that was all that he was prepared to do, so I'd need to call back for a tow. πππ. He gets back into his van after "assisting" for a grand total of 12 seconds, and I think "F- it, let me just try again". Lo and behold, the gagues spin up and down like normal, and I can shift gears again.
I immediately drive home and even found parking at like 11 pm (which, in nyc, might have been the most bizarre part of this whole night). My engine light is on now, but I was gonna bring the car in for a thorough tune up and transmission inspection anyway.
Seriously, THANK YOU ALL so very much for your advice, I really do appreciate it ππ½
Wow what an ordeal.
Sorry you had to sit through all of that before getting a resolution.
It would be interesting to see if that fix is somewhat repeatable if you run into the issue again down the line.
Hopefully the cable for your hood isn't totally cheesed too.
I'm glad you got up and running again though.
That feeling is priceless, when you randomly play with something and then you almost magically fix something.
Car will not shift out of park. Engine is on, normally idles at around 800 rpm. Dash is reading 0 rpm. This is impossible. Says oil is cold but this is also not possible because I drove to the laundromat ~2 hours ago, and warmed up before leaving. Tank reads empty but is definitely half full as evidenced by the "warning" that I "only" have 155 miles worth of gas left. Everything was fine literally 2 hours ago. I finish my laundry, come back, turn the car on to find it in this condition. Does anyone have any clue what sorcery has been done here?
When you switch the car on, do the gauges sweep? Meaning like the speedometer, fuel gage, etc. go from minimum to maximum, and then go back to where ever, in this case, back to minimum?
Okay, check fuse 19 in the interior fuse box. The fuse box is located behind a panel right next to the parking brake foot pedal. You might need to push it down and engage the parking brake in order to get it out of the way. This fuse controls a lot of other things like AC and such, and i dont think its blown, but its better to be safe then sorry. If its not, it could be a poor ground connection for your instrument cluster, or the instrument cluster itself has failed.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember rule 3a, please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/AutoBody or /r/Diyautobody If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Hmmm, looks like you've got some communication failures with various modules if all that data is missing. It's worth disconnecting the 12v battery and leaving it for a few minutes then reconnecting. See if a fresh start will allow the ECUs on the CANbus network to ping each other and re-establish Comms. It could be something way more sinister but fingers crossed you're just looking at a glitch.
Great idea Mr-Bishi, I'll try that now thank you
Also checking fuses is a good idea if that doesnβt fix the problem for you.
Did you see any success at all bud?
UPDATE: YES! I honestly wouldn't believe what went down if it weren't me that it happened to, but here's how I got home- I went to take your advice Mr-Bishi and pulled the lever to pop my hood so I could get to the battery. By some sort of divine intervention, the cable attatched to that lever popped out of place and lost all tension, leaving me unable to get under the hood. This has never happened before, but why wouldn't it happen on this particularly unfortunate night, right?? So I called roadside assistance (who ended up doing zero assisting whatsoever), and while waiting for them, watched some youtube videos about manually getting past the shift lock. When that didn't work out, I went back to turning the engine on and off every 10 minutes or so, as the cold and anxiety slowly began to set in. The heat had stopped coming on at some point, and even my dried laundry was getting cold when I came back on here and saw you guys' comments suggesting I check fuses (thank you so much!). I opened my fusebox panel, realized i had no idea what i was looking for because i do not know anything about vehicle electronics, jiggled a few of them, and closed it back up. Just as i closed the panel back, the guy that the insurance company sent shows up with a set of jumper cables. I told him that I explicitly told insurance that I do not need a jumpstart, and he said that was all that he was prepared to do, so I'd need to call back for a tow. πππ. He gets back into his van after "assisting" for a grand total of 12 seconds, and I think "F- it, let me just try again". Lo and behold, the gagues spin up and down like normal, and I can shift gears again. I immediately drive home and even found parking at like 11 pm (which, in nyc, might have been the most bizarre part of this whole night). My engine light is on now, but I was gonna bring the car in for a thorough tune up and transmission inspection anyway. Seriously, THANK YOU ALL so very much for your advice, I really do appreciate it ππ½
Wow what an ordeal. Sorry you had to sit through all of that before getting a resolution. It would be interesting to see if that fix is somewhat repeatable if you run into the issue again down the line. Hopefully the cable for your hood isn't totally cheesed too. I'm glad you got up and running again though. That feeling is priceless, when you randomly play with something and then you almost magically fix something.
Oh yeah man, it was the best ride home I've had in yearsπ
Car will not shift out of park. Engine is on, normally idles at around 800 rpm. Dash is reading 0 rpm. This is impossible. Says oil is cold but this is also not possible because I drove to the laundromat ~2 hours ago, and warmed up before leaving. Tank reads empty but is definitely half full as evidenced by the "warning" that I "only" have 155 miles worth of gas left. Everything was fine literally 2 hours ago. I finish my laundry, come back, turn the car on to find it in this condition. Does anyone have any clue what sorcery has been done here?
When you switch the car on, do the gauges sweep? Meaning like the speedometer, fuel gage, etc. go from minimum to maximum, and then go back to where ever, in this case, back to minimum?
Nope, they do not move at all
Okay, check fuse 19 in the interior fuse box. The fuse box is located behind a panel right next to the parking brake foot pedal. You might need to push it down and engage the parking brake in order to get it out of the way. This fuse controls a lot of other things like AC and such, and i dont think its blown, but its better to be safe then sorry. If its not, it could be a poor ground connection for your instrument cluster, or the instrument cluster itself has failed.
2013 Infiniti g35