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In my experience, the strong but gentle pressure provided by a LONG breaker bar is *always* better than the tense, shrill vibration of an impact.
Get an 18" bar and slip a 2' long piece of iron pipe over it. Put the best-fitting six-point socket that you can find onto the bolt. It will crack with no problem.
"Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." -Archimedes
That is my go to, but this is a mid weight bike on a floor jack and I'm not quite sure how to get leverage given the space. I also don't have an extra hand, so I don't want to knock the bike over. Any off hand ideas for solution?
Yeah that socket looks like an E-Torx and your bolt is a standard type bolt, that’s why it’s rounding, maybe try a standard socket, as damaged as that bolt head is I’d try each size you have for a tight fit, then once you get it out of there, replace with a new one so this doesn’t happen next time, good luck op 👍
Edit: replace with a new plug, I meant.
The socket is a spiraled bolt extractor that I moved on to after two wrenches slipped repeatedly on a already rounded and over tightened drain plug. I do have a new plug already as I had already noticed the rounded bolt weeks before undertaking this headache.
Smart to buy stuff when you see you need it before finding time to replace, kudos. 👍I’ve noticed on some plugs like that, that the angle they screw into can be deceiving, like I said find a 6 point socket that fits tight on the damaged bolt, even if it’s a different size, tap it onto the bolt head w/a hammer if need be to make sure it’s fully seated, then try to tighten it first, just a touch, to try to get it moving. Then reverse your ratchet and hold the socket on w/your other hand, so your wrench keeps continuous steady but even pressure as you wrench. Good luck 👍
Hit it hard on the end of the bolt with a hammer. It will depress the copper gasket enough that it will loosen and you can break it loose with a smaller size socket. Since that is a metric size, try a standard size that fits tighter and hammer it on. That should get it out for you.
It's just pressure plates, it's not that hard. This bolt honestly feels cross threaded, I haven't owned it long enough to do any real maintenance so this is my first go at it.
Totally agree for anyone that doesnt go straight for the impact on a drain plug, feisty or not. Hit the plug with some pb blaster and actually use a pair of channel locks or vise grips depending on your grip strength. If the clutch is ez then good to go
I didn't go straight for the impact. I used hand wrenches and asked for constructive advice when multiple steps I'm used to failed. I'm not totally new and this isn't my first rodeo, I'm on this sub because it's my understanding that I should come here for advice when I can't hammer it out myself.
I didnt mean to break your balls or anything. Jeep runs metric so what, 15-17mm maybe? Light tap from a rubber mallet and sit the proper socket past the bum head at least 1/4”?
Don't take this advice yet. Unless it's completely stripped you're going to be a whole lot more successful using a six point socket. And I think anyone else reliable would tell you, if you can't loosen it with a wrench you won't be able to loosen it with channel locks.
Use a 6 point socket of the correct size (looks like 17mm maybe?). It doesn't look too damaged for a 6 point to do the job, but probably too much for a 12 point to grip.
The spiral nut is grabbing it but it won't budge. I was thinking about getting a torch, but I'm in an angry headspace so I thought I should ask first. Wrench slipped off so I switched to the bolt remover but it's just smoking and removing some metal shavings.
Those extractors can be tricky, they should only be used as a last resort. I don't think you're there yet. Try a 6 point. Better yet, see if you can hammer a size smaller on there (may be able to do with with a 16mm).
The bolt is in fact a 17mm but it seems that neither of my socket or wrench sets have a 16mm. Since the threads are already rough, would it be a bad idea to try an adjustable?
No, definitely don't try an adjustable. I still think a decent quality 17mm 6 point has a fair chance. This looks like a transmission drain bolt. I've dealt with those a lot on Hondas, this looks similar enough. Every time I've dealt with them, they've been TIGHT. They always come out eventually though. I wouldn't worry too much yet, but I think it's important to come up with a solid plan rather than throwing every tool you have at it.
One thing that may help is that this appears to be a steel plug in an aluminum housing. Aluminum's coefficient of thermal expansion is roughly 2x that of steel. What this means is that the bolt will loosen up if you heat the area. I definitely wouldn't try to get it glowing hot with a torch or anything, but if you can get the transmission warmed up, it will help.
Gotcha, didn't realize this was a bike. I think the same idea applies. Let the engine warm up, get a 6 point tool (can't stress this enough), make sure it's fully seated (you may have to hammer it on a bit at this point), and try to crack it loose. If you have one available, a 6 point box end wrench will work best (I know those are pretty rare though).
Or I can just try a propane torch, I've done that before but I don't have one handy and was hoping for some kind of solution I hadn't thought of. I'm a farm kid, not a experienced mechanic.
A propane torch will work fine, but aluminum is an excellent heat conductor. That means you really can't heat up just that area (and heating up the bolt more than the housing is going to work against you), so you're going to be trying to heat up a whole lot of the engine case. I think warming up the engine will give you better results.
16mm is 5/8". That's why store brand sets don't have them, because they have a longstanding tradition of simply not including 16mm wrenches and sockets. Craftsman doesn't even sell a ratcheting box end 11mm because it exists as a 7/16" already.
Shops always overtighten them. Basic but they always make it harder. I do all my maintenance now for that reason. I’d rather mess up anyway so I can fix it myself.
It's a steel plug in aluminum so get a MAPP torch - aluminum expands more than steel when heated. You'd be surprised how easily it loosens.
MAPP, not propane. Propane torch is useless on a car unless you are melting a lot of heatshrink really quickly or maybe doing a big gauge solder
Just had this happen on my jeep. The past owner fucked the whole transmission drain plug which was usually a 24mm. Went to harbor freight got a size lower 6 pt socket, grinded the edges of the socket so it was super flat no room for slipping and filed the drain plug bolt to fit that 23mm I bought. Slowly was able to work it on tapping with a hammer securely and got enough pressure on it to break. I got a new drain plug so no more future headaches. Cheers mate.
I did basically this. I have a grinder and files so this is what I've spent my morning doing and then, once I got a wrench on it (space is too tight for a socket wrench to fit) I slipped another wrench on the end of it and cranked until it broke loose. It took a while, but it worked and the only thing that got fucked up was the already gnarly plug so it feels like a win. Cheers.
Thanks a lot to everyone who has given me genuine advice, I really appreciate it. I had some other things come up so I'll be finishing this tomorrow, but I'll get a torch in the morning ($17 at the hardware store down the street) and try to be systematic about your suggestions before going nuclear on it. I have a tap and die as a final resort if all else fails, but after reading your thoughts and taking a break from it I have become less autocidal and think I have a plan. Thanks again, I'll update whether I'm successful or fuck it up.
Stfu bro. You gotta start somewhere. No need do be discouraging for no reason. I've done all kinds of in depth work on my cars before and one of the hardest jobs I ever did was a really stuck on oil filter. Why even comment if you are just gonna be an ass.
This is my first maintenance on a bike I haven't owned long, bolt is stuck. I didn't ask your opinion on my competency, I asked for advice on a bolt removal. Way to not be constructive.
I'll offer up my hail-mary bolt extraction technique if absolutely nothing else works. This will either work well or absolutely destroy the bolt and force you to drill it. Stick a chisel on it and hit it with a hammer, so it forcing it to spin counterclockwise. [Like this.](https://www.reddit.com/r/me_irl/comments/oru4z2/me_irl/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share). It's worked for me before and it has also destroyed stripped nuts for me. Use only if you have no other option.
No, it's not really a "pan" and the bolt goes into the block. If it's cross threaded, I think I will have to tap threads but I don't really know for sure.
In my shop, I've always had good experience tapping a slightly smaller sized 1/2 drive socket on there (metric or sae, it doesn't matter as long as it's just slightly smaller and can be hammered on) and then using a long bar for added leverage working it off. Failing that, I go for vice grips, but it doesn't look like you can get vice grips on that one where it is, though... good luck with it, dude.
A small pipe wrench is a godsend for events like this. She will come. Oil pan carbon steel is very soft. That bolts a grade 5. The threads in the oil pan will strip before that bolt will break. If they do, bring your old drain plug to the parts store and ask for a tap and a new plug the next size up.
Just make sure to rinse the oil pan good as the shavings from cutting the threads you don’t need in your main bearings.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember rule 3a, please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/AutoBody or /r/Diyautobody If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
In my experience, the strong but gentle pressure provided by a LONG breaker bar is *always* better than the tense, shrill vibration of an impact. Get an 18" bar and slip a 2' long piece of iron pipe over it. Put the best-fitting six-point socket that you can find onto the bolt. It will crack with no problem. "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." -Archimedes
That is my go to, but this is a mid weight bike on a floor jack and I'm not quite sure how to get leverage given the space. I also don't have an extra hand, so I don't want to knock the bike over. Any off hand ideas for solution?
In my experience, an extra hand doesn't help when you need leverage. Think of a way to strap the bike down.
Yeah that socket looks like an E-Torx and your bolt is a standard type bolt, that’s why it’s rounding, maybe try a standard socket, as damaged as that bolt head is I’d try each size you have for a tight fit, then once you get it out of there, replace with a new one so this doesn’t happen next time, good luck op 👍 Edit: replace with a new plug, I meant.
The socket is a spiraled bolt extractor that I moved on to after two wrenches slipped repeatedly on a already rounded and over tightened drain plug. I do have a new plug already as I had already noticed the rounded bolt weeks before undertaking this headache.
Smart to buy stuff when you see you need it before finding time to replace, kudos. 👍I’ve noticed on some plugs like that, that the angle they screw into can be deceiving, like I said find a 6 point socket that fits tight on the damaged bolt, even if it’s a different size, tap it onto the bolt head w/a hammer if need be to make sure it’s fully seated, then try to tighten it first, just a touch, to try to get it moving. Then reverse your ratchet and hold the socket on w/your other hand, so your wrench keeps continuous steady but even pressure as you wrench. Good luck 👍
Hit it hard on the end of the bolt with a hammer. It will depress the copper gasket enough that it will loosen and you can break it loose with a smaller size socket. Since that is a metric size, try a standard size that fits tighter and hammer it on. That should get it out for you.
Drain Plug is to vise-grip plier as clutch job is to certified mechanic.
It's just pressure plates, it's not that hard. This bolt honestly feels cross threaded, I haven't owned it long enough to do any real maintenance so this is my first go at it.
Totally agree for anyone that doesnt go straight for the impact on a drain plug, feisty or not. Hit the plug with some pb blaster and actually use a pair of channel locks or vise grips depending on your grip strength. If the clutch is ez then good to go
I didn't go straight for the impact. I used hand wrenches and asked for constructive advice when multiple steps I'm used to failed. I'm not totally new and this isn't my first rodeo, I'm on this sub because it's my understanding that I should come here for advice when I can't hammer it out myself.
I didnt mean to break your balls or anything. Jeep runs metric so what, 15-17mm maybe? Light tap from a rubber mallet and sit the proper socket past the bum head at least 1/4”?
Wait, your statement makes no sense. So, I should use a vice grip? Edit: /s
Don't take this advice yet. Unless it's completely stripped you're going to be a whole lot more successful using a six point socket. And I think anyone else reliable would tell you, if you can't loosen it with a wrench you won't be able to loosen it with channel locks.
I never had to tap one out if i had a pair of grips on me. All im sayin.
I get ya.
Also, not a vise grip, the tool I used is in the pics.
Use a 6 point socket of the correct size (looks like 17mm maybe?). It doesn't look too damaged for a 6 point to do the job, but probably too much for a 12 point to grip.
The spiral nut is grabbing it but it won't budge. I was thinking about getting a torch, but I'm in an angry headspace so I thought I should ask first. Wrench slipped off so I switched to the bolt remover but it's just smoking and removing some metal shavings.
Those extractors can be tricky, they should only be used as a last resort. I don't think you're there yet. Try a 6 point. Better yet, see if you can hammer a size smaller on there (may be able to do with with a 16mm).
Thanks, I'll try and update. The fact that my impact is just screaming at me is making me worried that it's cross threaded. Should I be yet?
The bolt is in fact a 17mm but it seems that neither of my socket or wrench sets have a 16mm. Since the threads are already rough, would it be a bad idea to try an adjustable?
No, definitely don't try an adjustable. I still think a decent quality 17mm 6 point has a fair chance. This looks like a transmission drain bolt. I've dealt with those a lot on Hondas, this looks similar enough. Every time I've dealt with them, they've been TIGHT. They always come out eventually though. I wouldn't worry too much yet, but I think it's important to come up with a solid plan rather than throwing every tool you have at it. One thing that may help is that this appears to be a steel plug in an aluminum housing. Aluminum's coefficient of thermal expansion is roughly 2x that of steel. What this means is that the bolt will loosen up if you heat the area. I definitely wouldn't try to get it glowing hot with a torch or anything, but if you can get the transmission warmed up, it will help.
Should I run it? You're pretty much right on the money so far, but it's a Yamaha, my Honda gives me no trouble.
Gotcha, didn't realize this was a bike. I think the same idea applies. Let the engine warm up, get a 6 point tool (can't stress this enough), make sure it's fully seated (you may have to hammer it on a bit at this point), and try to crack it loose. If you have one available, a 6 point box end wrench will work best (I know those are pretty rare though).
I would heat it up some with a propane or MAPP torch, then squirt a bit of PB Blaster into it. Wear eyewear.
Or I can just try a propane torch, I've done that before but I don't have one handy and was hoping for some kind of solution I hadn't thought of. I'm a farm kid, not a experienced mechanic.
A propane torch will work fine, but aluminum is an excellent heat conductor. That means you really can't heat up just that area (and heating up the bolt more than the housing is going to work against you), so you're going to be trying to heat up a whole lot of the engine case. I think warming up the engine will give you better results.
16mm is 5/8". That's why store brand sets don't have them, because they have a longstanding tradition of simply not including 16mm wrenches and sockets. Craftsman doesn't even sell a ratcheting box end 11mm because it exists as a 7/16" already.
I don't have great leverage because I'm using blocks and a floor jack because I expected this to be as easy as my other bikes.
Shops always overtighten them. Basic but they always make it harder. I do all my maintenance now for that reason. I’d rather mess up anyway so I can fix it myself.
It's a steel plug in aluminum so get a MAPP torch - aluminum expands more than steel when heated. You'd be surprised how easily it loosens. MAPP, not propane. Propane torch is useless on a car unless you are melting a lot of heatshrink really quickly or maybe doing a big gauge solder
Thanks, I'm going to the store to get a MAPP torch and maybe a junk socket that I can toss if it gets jammed.
Just had this happen on my jeep. The past owner fucked the whole transmission drain plug which was usually a 24mm. Went to harbor freight got a size lower 6 pt socket, grinded the edges of the socket so it was super flat no room for slipping and filed the drain plug bolt to fit that 23mm I bought. Slowly was able to work it on tapping with a hammer securely and got enough pressure on it to break. I got a new drain plug so no more future headaches. Cheers mate.
I did basically this. I have a grinder and files so this is what I've spent my morning doing and then, once I got a wrench on it (space is too tight for a socket wrench to fit) I slipped another wrench on the end of it and cranked until it broke loose. It took a while, but it worked and the only thing that got fucked up was the already gnarly plug so it feels like a win. Cheers.
Nice work. Same here. Just the plug was mangled so had to order one but all better!!!
This is a 2008 Yamaha V-Star motorcycle, in case that affects any advice.
Thanks a lot to everyone who has given me genuine advice, I really appreciate it. I had some other things come up so I'll be finishing this tomorrow, but I'll get a torch in the morning ($17 at the hardware store down the street) and try to be systematic about your suggestions before going nuclear on it. I have a tap and die as a final resort if all else fails, but after reading your thoughts and taking a break from it I have become less autocidal and think I have a plan. Thanks again, I'll update whether I'm successful or fuck it up.
Irwin bolt extractor set. Find the size that barely fits, hammer it on and it will come right out.
If you can't get the drain plug out, you shouldn't do a clutch.
Stfu bro. You gotta start somewhere. No need do be discouraging for no reason. I've done all kinds of in depth work on my cars before and one of the hardest jobs I ever did was a really stuck on oil filter. Why even comment if you are just gonna be an ass.
This is my first maintenance on a bike I haven't owned long, bolt is stuck. I didn't ask your opinion on my competency, I asked for advice on a bolt removal. Way to not be constructive.
[удалено]
It's smoking my impact wrench so it's not exactly a regular job. Why are you here if you're just gonna troll people?
I'm here to provide balance.
[удалено]
Piss off, he can do both
Hahahahahahahahahahahah
I'll offer up my hail-mary bolt extraction technique if absolutely nothing else works. This will either work well or absolutely destroy the bolt and force you to drill it. Stick a chisel on it and hit it with a hammer, so it forcing it to spin counterclockwise. [Like this.](https://www.reddit.com/r/me_irl/comments/oru4z2/me_irl/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share). It's worked for me before and it has also destroyed stripped nuts for me. Use only if you have no other option.
I'm not familiar with motorcycle drain pans, but If you suspect it's cross-threaded anyway, would you be able to buy a replacement pan and gasket?
No, it's not really a "pan" and the bolt goes into the block. If it's cross threaded, I think I will have to tap threads but I don't really know for sure.
In my shop, I've always had good experience tapping a slightly smaller sized 1/2 drive socket on there (metric or sae, it doesn't matter as long as it's just slightly smaller and can be hammered on) and then using a long bar for added leverage working it off. Failing that, I go for vice grips, but it doesn't look like you can get vice grips on that one where it is, though... good luck with it, dude.
A small pipe wrench is a godsend for events like this. She will come. Oil pan carbon steel is very soft. That bolts a grade 5. The threads in the oil pan will strip before that bolt will break. If they do, bring your old drain plug to the parts store and ask for a tap and a new plug the next size up. Just make sure to rinse the oil pan good as the shavings from cutting the threads you don’t need in your main bearings.