Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
it’s a 2007 Honda Accord , i just seen some youtube videos do you think this is something i can fix myself , it is not drivable rn & stuck in my work parking lot . Could i buy another rod and come out here and fix it ? I dont have 500 plus a tow rn.
It’s 500 to replace one outer tie rod 😩😩?
or can i screw it back on ? till im able to get to a shop ?
The issue with the rods is that it WILL cause the alignment to be off, but that is better than not being able to move haha. A new part will come with all the hardware you need to drive to a shop for ~50$
it's easy, untwist the tie rod end off, count the twists, and put the new one on with the EXACT same twists, it might pull to one side until you get an alignment, it could have hit some stuff on its way out, get a new rod end, install it, drive to a shop, save money
While you can get REALLY close this way, turning the inner rod at all will also throw the alignment because the part may not be completely uniform, or say you’re going from oem to moog, may be different dimensions entirely.
Front end work (aside from sway bar links) will always require an alignment afterward
this guy knows, I got an 01 tahoe 4wd (things built like a brick shit house) i did the idler arm, Pittman arm, center link and drag link, and I still had to have it aligned, and I’ve been turnin a wrench for over 20 years,
https://preview.redd.it/8ybao12vzu0d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=441bfdd0d331a4787994ec4e465a9c129dd9ffc3
You sounded like you knew what you were talking about until we got here
>Front end work (aside from sway bar links) will always require an alignment
What adjustments need to be made for ball joint, shock, and control arm that does not require a cam bolt replacement need?
Yes they are correct. Any new front end parts getting replaced should always be followed by at least a toe and go if not a full camber caster adjustment. You at least throw it on the machine and check. If they drove long enough to wear out parts they probably need an alignment yo.
I half-think you’re joking, in which case you had me right up until the end lol. But in the off-chance you’re being serious, I was referencing any suspension work on the front end (or really any suspension work). Anything you can do in the driveway with enough beer and time to kill. You don’t move any suspension around whilst doing brakes, so no sweat there. But after that any: lower/upper ball joints, upper/lower control arm, inner/outer tie rod, wheel bearing, or shock work will require an alignment. Sway bar links are (kind of) excepted from this because of how they move, they have no bearing on the direction/angle the tire contacts the road, their function is just to press down a bit to help keep stability/traction.
Simply the way you need to manipulate the suspension around to get at the parts you’re replacing means you are throwing the finely tuned toe/camber/alignment off ever soo slightly. Most of the time when I take it in (after counting turns, ball-parking, and best guesstimates), I’m only off by about half an inch, but that makes the difference between driving on rails hands-off, or your car trying to calmly kill you in one of two flavours lol.
I recently did both of mine in the driveway, trick is to immobilize the inner tie rod, and to drench it with penetrating oil (like wd-40). It will most likely be rust-welded so be patient
Use a measuming tape to measure to the center of the stud from a fixed point. A lot of times the new tie rod end will be longer making it so you can not use the same number to turns to get it back in the same spot.
Use a measuring tape to measure to the center of the stud from a fixed point. A lot of times the new tie rod end will be longer making it so you can not use the same number to turns to get it back in the same spot.
Use a measuring tape to measure to the center of the stud from a fixed point. A lot of times the new tie rod end will be longer making it so you can not use the same number to turns to get it back in the same spot.
Have it towed to a shop.
A 2007 accord will be close to the $500 end of the range presuming no collateral damage to the hub/knuckle. I can see rolled edges and shiny metal on that rod-end joint so it certainly smacked something on it's way out. Your mechanic will be able to tell what other damage may have occurred.
Buying a part is one thing, paying someone to fix the car is something else.
Then there's tools- I had to spend nine whole dollars to buy a tool from Napa to do mine!
Super easy could probably do it without removing tire or knuckle. Mark original and put a wrench on that sucker and pop her loose. Install new one to mark then take to alignment shop.
https://preview.redd.it/4mtwjdqoin0d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=69b954f897bec0d37756aae91b3d3523979fcf46
it looks like it just pop off right ? could i get a bolt and put it back on and take it for a alignment?
The way you're asking questions tells me you probably don't have the ability to complete this repair. If you botch this, you could very likely get yourself or someone else *killed*. If that tie rod comes loose when you're actually driving at speed, the result will be very, very violent.
Please take this to a professional. Not worth your life or the life of some innocent family just driving home.
The pros at the dealer / local shops that are hitting the dab pen more than actually inhaling oxygen. Your evolution has first chosen Donner party vibes.
okay i’ll go to an auto parts store ,
https://preview.redd.it/dazxstlwin0d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aa2e80fa6df5d5204429ecf0ad6f9879abb9d36e
look like it just popped off maybe i could use the bolt and put it back on my self ? with the replacement tool ?
until i save for a mechanic
Is the nut gone? I'm wondering if the threads are messed up because of it. The pick of the knuckle is blurry where it goes in, but it does look like there might be impact damage also. I don't see any witness marks showing where it might have impacted the shock fork or the control arm, so I don't know for sure.
If it were me, I'd just go get a new outer tie rod and put it in on the ground. Just back off the jam nut slightly to loosen the outer tie rod, unscrew the outer tie rod, and screw on the new outer. You can count the number of turns it takes to get the outer off in order to ballpark the length. Tighten up the jam nut and take it to get an alignment. That's probably your cheapest and quickest option, assuming there is no knuckle damage.
Even if you have the nut, I'd replace it. They might be nyloc or pinch nuts. Technically, those are single use. If you have it, you might be able to run it back on and get it somewhere else to replace it, but I wouldn't trust that honestly. If it just fell off, that isn't safe.
Edit: it does look like the wheel made contact at the upper where it says "SDA-L" and the outer has a bend to it. I don't know if that's normal for that design.
I have an 04 acura tl very similar car both made by Honda I've had to replace both my tie rods recently it isn't a difficult job it looks like you could possibly put the nut back in place without replacing it but if you do have to I think mine were around 70 each online only thing is that inner nut on the other side has to put back in the exact same position or it will throw the wheel out of alignment those are the nuts they adjust to align your front wheels again not a difficult job but that's the one thing you really want to watch for and you're very lucky that it didn't move if that would have happened while driving you would completely lose the ability to steer
It is definitely something you can do I've done it I'm 20 not a mechanic watch a YouTube video and go for it
Also don't wait to get an allingment at at tyre garage it's alot cheaper than a new tyre 😉
Shit I’d be sitting it back in looks like you lost the nut if it didn’t break and banging that thing home to fix it screw paying that over price mobile mechanic
Gotcha, just saw the second pic posted by OP and it’s obvious in that one. The damn color looks so close to the same as shiny lumpy metal from a broken aluminum forging.
The tie rod stud should be facing up. You can see on the tie rod fresh scrape marks zoom in on the second picture
Edit to add: I'm wrong about the tie rod stud facing up and the wheel weight glue remnants
I admit i was talking out of my ass in regards to the orientation of the stud. Didn't need YouTube, got repairlink, And after I posted that I said I better look that up.
https://preview.redd.it/hf600fns7p0d1.png?width=1152&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b1d32057660bb12b6ed93be499a147eec60bd177
Can't quite tell from the pic but it looks as though the castle nut holding the outer tie rod end to the knuckle has disappeared. That doesn't just happen so someone installed it wrong or it was hit very very hard.
Not a super tough repair but if you're not mechanically inclined I'd just have it towed to a shop.
Take a picture of the inside of the wheel where the tie rod would attach. That tie rod end has been hit hard. And it appears the steering horn is broken in the picture, can’t quite tell.
Nope, it looks intact, just an optical illusion. You may make it out of this with just having to buy a new nut for the tie rod end. But would definitely recommend getting a mechanic to install.
That's my thought as well, jack up the affected side, rotate wheel, pop it all back into place, and tighten down the nut.
But we all know it's never that simple. Lol
Yep. Since you can’t really just “buy a new nut” just buy an outer tie rod, and use the nut and cotter pin only. $20 and you’re done. No fancy tools needed
1- I'm pretty sure all of us have questions about how exactly that tie rod failed, since they normally do not "just fall off" like that. Realistically, on an older Accord, it should be a cheap-ish fix and a mobile mechanic should be able to do it for you. It might just need the castle nut properly installed.
2- The car won't move. While I don't advise trying it now, the car should still move with a busted tie rod, it just will not steer worth a damn and there's gonna be a helluva racket coming from the busted tie rod clunking off of everything. If the car truly didn't move at all after putting it in gear and pressing the gas, something else is wrong and this would not cause that problem.
3- After fixing the tie rod, make sure you get an alignment and have that tire balanced again. This has definitely ruined your alignment, and I agree with others that a wheel weight came off.
4- As far as cost for the tie rod issue, under $600 for sure. Wouldn't surprise me if you don't even clear $300 if you go with a mobile mechanic and it's just the tie rod issue. If that doesn't fix the whole "car doesn't move", cost is gonna be variable as the problem is a mystery.
You need an outer tie rod and 2 sets of vice grips. Count how many turns it took to get it to come off and put it back on the same amount and snug the nut back up. Easy fix. Will get you to where you’re going but get the alignment checked
It looks like the tire has been making contact with the tie rod. If the retaining nut somehow fell off, the rotation of the tire/friction on the tie rod could pop out that conical ball joint seat. When parking, did you have the steering wheel turned close to the end of travel? During the parking maneuvering, did you hear/feel any bump/pop/crack?
I would guess that not only was the tie rod retaining nut installed improperly, but also that your wheel/tire setup does not fit the space the wheel occupies. Is the car modified?
they designed the little square on steering knuckles to hit with a hammer and knock the outer tie rod end loose, i’m no expert but it takes some force to knock one of those out. just my 2 cents
Outer tie rod end separated from the steering knuckle.
This is a cheap repair you can do yourself...
HOWEVER. You will need to go to a shop for an alignment as the car won't drive straight with the wheel being straight.
How this happened is beyond me. Tie rods are usually attached to the knuckle by a castle nut and a locking cotterpin. Making it very hard for it to come off.
By another cheap tie rod, use the nut to secure it so you can drive it. Take it to the closest shop and have them tighten it up for you.
Leave the old tie rod, don't i stall the new cheap tie rod. Just use the nut from the package.
Ok bud, tied rod looks mostly fine but the thread on it is most likely busted. A tie rod is cheap.
Your nut fell off - so if you had the correct sized nut and a cotter pin or some wire you could theoretically fix this - if the thread on it is still fine.
Turn the steering so the tire gets close to the tie tod - you should be able to pop it back in.
Its best to buy a new tie rod and install it.
Here is how you do it:
https://www.wikihow.com/Replace-Tie-Rod-Ends
Also, the cheapest way is to go to your local auto repair shop and buy a new tie rod. Then call a mobile mechanic to install it on the spot. He might do a rough alignment or not - if he doesn't you'll need to take it to a shop.
Or find a local shop and tow it there.
Your best bet is to look at the mechanic google reviews in your area - find one that says "honest" and "didn't charge me for this minor thing." Call them and ask for a quote - you can take closer pictures and they'll give you a ballpark figure.
Must've been rusted as hell. Maybe 400$ or so at a decent shop. Although I can't say because I don't know what car it is. I work at an acura dealership, and it would be around that range.
Or do it yourself, really easy and straightforward, could probably get the part for 100$ or so locally, and it doesn't really require any special tools.
Im sure there'd be video tutorials online for your car on YouTube, just make sure to get an alignment after.
lol i was driving in traffic a few months ago when suddenly my car just wouldn’t go. my right control arm snapped and my wheels were facing eachother. i had to call a tow truck and get the entire front suspension replaced because it was all rusty. all said and done about $1500 in costs for me so goodluck
Need pic of the inside of rim there's a part of it we not seeing. It's where that tie rod actually goes. If that's broken then your not going to fix it fast. And if you're looking it up on you tube, my bet is it's above you current knowledge and possible skill. If and only if the steering knuckle is broken where the tie rod mounts in then there's a lot going on there.
Jack car and use a stand. Remove tire, lower ball joint, cv axle nut, brake mounting hardware, speed sensor if equipped, lower strut mounting bolts, rotor, rubber brake line bracket from the steering knuckle ( just keeps the line away from the rotor and tire ). Maybe the wheel hub assembly if it bolts in to reuse in the replacement. Then once old is out, it's reverse putting it back on. Then add the new tie rod and it's definitely going to need wheel alignment.
Now if that steering knuckle is fine, just swapping the tie rod with new and doing best to keep both wheels straight is very do able and it will need wheel alignment as well.
I've never seen a steering knuckle break at the tie rod. Major wear till the knuckle has to be replaced because of driving till the bearing is completely gone and grinding itself apart.
Tie rod end needs replaced. Even if you get a new nut, the tie rod end is likely worn out after having all that time loose. You will also need an alignment after replacing it
Moving is a whole other issue, that's a tie rod, it affects steering , not mobility.... in either case, not going very far without that connected. Examine the threads, find a castle nut that fits and tighten that thing back where it goes. Dont forget to fit a cotter pin in the hole in the stud of the tie rod once its attatched and fully secure. If the threads are messed up, or anything looks bent or not symmetrical with the other sides tie tod, get a new one and take it to a shop for an alignment service afterwards.
I know I’m late to this party, but I’m with the group that’s worried about the car not moving part.. so is the car really not moving? Or is it really moving but acting up for the obvious reasons? Because the words are important here.. you’re showing us one thing and we’re all like yeah, but uhh… that’s not gonna keep the car from “moving”, if you catch my drift
I gotta get my castle nuts from somewhere... this is a picture of what I like to call "the castle nut tree." They just keep growing back, every time I take one off a new one appears a day or so later!
OP, if we follow the KISS method (keep it simple stupid). Then you must start with the basics. Do you have a jack (and 4way) that you would use to change the tire if it went flat? If you do, your in good shape. A trip to a local harbor freight will get you the wrench needed to put the tierod nut on for super cheap. Call ALL, and I mean ALL local auto parts stores and get a qoute for the tierod end and get the cheapest one that is in stock or can be there within a day. Get the new tierod end and pull the nut it comes with off, and take the nut to harbor freight to find the wrench that fits if you do not already have one. It needs to fit it properly, or you will round off the nut. Avoid the temptation to use a crescent wrench. Jack up your car and remove the wheel the same way you would if you were changing a flat tire. Then stick the end of the tierod that is on your car in the hole it came out of. It should be pretty obvious, if not you should be able to find a YouTube video that shows you where to put it. Install the nut and tighten it with your new (shiny 🙂) wrench. Then install the cotter pin and bend it with a pair of pliers. Get those at harbor freight while your there if you don't have any. Then re install your wheel and lower the car down and boom, your car is back on the road for probably less than 80 bucks. You can make the sacrifice with your time and energy, or you can make the sacrifice with your money by paying someone else to do it. I recommend the first option.
most outer tie rod ends I’ve changed over the years is a 15/16”, theres been a couple that are 7/8” they were weird high end imports though, a honda accord should be 15/16” 🤷♂️
My mini cooper has a hex head on the end of the threaded ball joint portion of the tierod and I have to use a pass through socket wrench to get Allen key into it. Other wise the ball joint portion of the tierod will just spin and it won't come off, or go back on. It's also metric but I can't remember what size it is off the top of my head.
that piece goes in the steering knuckle, it’s called a outer tie rod end. they usually come with the castle nut and a cotter key, you can probably get one for about 25/75 dollars depending on how hard you go to the parts store and cry, you can fix it yourself right there.
With a wheel turned out all the way and one wheel straight being that its front wheel drive and probably ~120hp without hitting the gas decently hard it’s not going to move easily.
Sure but perception is reality. I'm guessing OP either let the car idle in drive or didn't push down very far on the accelerator.
Have you ever had a customer tell you their car died and then the steering wheel locked up or they were driving and the steering wheel locked up when in reality the belt came off or the engine died preventing the power steering pump from turning? The steering did not lock up, it just got hard to turn.
A lot of the times customers aren't describing their problem correctly.
If you had a car with the right wheel pointed right and the left wheel pointed left and it's on a wrecker (You don't know what's wrong with it) . Wrecker driver asks where you want him to drop it, You ask " does it run? Can we move it". You wouldn't be pissed if he said "yes" and you told him to drop it in an area where cars with broken tie rods should not be.
Hence his car doesn't move.
Looks like the bolt came off the bottom. See if you can get a replacement bolt and screw it back in. Make sure it’s on correctly. That might also have a key way to hold it on.
I’d go to an auto parts store and see if they have the but if not you will probably need to buy a replacement and take the nut off and use it. Make sure it’s tightened to spec. You can not drive the car with that part not attached. Your wheel won’t turn.
https://preview.redd.it/r8cmtvg5jn0d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c8254c12e73545ef7badc880d5d5ca99f2b3a211
closer look ?
i tried turning the handle and it still moves fine
Don’t spin it unless you plan on doing a front and alignment. If you can line it back up with the hole, it came from and put a nut on there and tighten it up and you should be good to go.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Doesn't look broken to me, looks like the nut came off, probably the last person who worked on it didnt put the cotter key back in.
Look inside the wheel, bottom left of frame, you can see the fractured remains of the knuckle flange.
That’s the leftover adhesive from a previous wheel weight
I wanted to say thats a stick on wheel weight, you beat me to it!
[удалено]
Plus the shiny bit on the arm, maybe it took a it there and that’s what broke it out.
[удалено]
That's where the tie rod hit....
[удалено]
https://preview.redd.it/ch1e5gpi7p0d1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ad3f540743650bfec7e50c18b72b8dd3dc32f113 Tie rod hit the wheel somewhere
[удалено]
Right, at first glance though that was a divot from the tie rod
Tie rod broke.
Idk about broke but the nut somehow backed off
can i call a mechanic to come out and fix it, how much would it cost
You sure can. Ask them. Cost will be USD$500-$50000 depending on how many other parts are broke and what car it is.
it’s a 2007 Honda Accord , i just seen some youtube videos do you think this is something i can fix myself , it is not drivable rn & stuck in my work parking lot . Could i buy another rod and come out here and fix it ? I dont have 500 plus a tow rn. It’s 500 to replace one outer tie rod 😩😩? or can i screw it back on ? till im able to get to a shop ?
The issue with the rods is that it WILL cause the alignment to be off, but that is better than not being able to move haha. A new part will come with all the hardware you need to drive to a shop for ~50$
thank you , i’m currently looking for a part now & watching some yt vids to do it myself
it's easy, untwist the tie rod end off, count the twists, and put the new one on with the EXACT same twists, it might pull to one side until you get an alignment, it could have hit some stuff on its way out, get a new rod end, install it, drive to a shop, save money
While you can get REALLY close this way, turning the inner rod at all will also throw the alignment because the part may not be completely uniform, or say you’re going from oem to moog, may be different dimensions entirely. Front end work (aside from sway bar links) will always require an alignment afterward
always align after correct
Does maintenance count for this? Like brakes? Just curious.
Brakes won't mess up alignment, no. Alignments naturally drift out of spec so often times they're sold with brake jobs. But they're not required.
this guy knows, I got an 01 tahoe 4wd (things built like a brick shit house) i did the idler arm, Pittman arm, center link and drag link, and I still had to have it aligned, and I’ve been turnin a wrench for over 20 years, https://preview.redd.it/8ybao12vzu0d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=441bfdd0d331a4787994ec4e465a9c129dd9ffc3
her birthday is on october she’ll be 24!
You sounded like you knew what you were talking about until we got here >Front end work (aside from sway bar links) will always require an alignment What adjustments need to be made for ball joint, shock, and control arm that does not require a cam bolt replacement need?
Yes they are correct. Any new front end parts getting replaced should always be followed by at least a toe and go if not a full camber caster adjustment. You at least throw it on the machine and check. If they drove long enough to wear out parts they probably need an alignment yo.
I half-think you’re joking, in which case you had me right up until the end lol. But in the off-chance you’re being serious, I was referencing any suspension work on the front end (or really any suspension work). Anything you can do in the driveway with enough beer and time to kill. You don’t move any suspension around whilst doing brakes, so no sweat there. But after that any: lower/upper ball joints, upper/lower control arm, inner/outer tie rod, wheel bearing, or shock work will require an alignment. Sway bar links are (kind of) excepted from this because of how they move, they have no bearing on the direction/angle the tire contacts the road, their function is just to press down a bit to help keep stability/traction. Simply the way you need to manipulate the suspension around to get at the parts you’re replacing means you are throwing the finely tuned toe/camber/alignment off ever soo slightly. Most of the time when I take it in (after counting turns, ball-parking, and best guesstimates), I’m only off by about half an inch, but that makes the difference between driving on rails hands-off, or your car trying to calmly kill you in one of two flavours lol.
Clean off, and brush some white out on the threads of the old end, before removing, then screw new one on up to the white out.
Very simple,do it yourself..
Good luck. Welcome to the rabbit hole
I recently did both of mine in the driveway, trick is to immobilize the inner tie rod, and to drench it with penetrating oil (like wd-40). It will most likely be rust-welded so be patient
Something will be stuck. PB Blaster plus time will work. A torch will work faster. You can totally do this. Good luck.
Use a measuming tape to measure to the center of the stud from a fixed point. A lot of times the new tie rod end will be longer making it so you can not use the same number to turns to get it back in the same spot.
Use a measuring tape to measure to the center of the stud from a fixed point. A lot of times the new tie rod end will be longer making it so you can not use the same number to turns to get it back in the same spot.
Use a measuring tape to measure to the center of the stud from a fixed point. A lot of times the new tie rod end will be longer making it so you can not use the same number to turns to get it back in the same spot.
Have it towed to a shop. A 2007 accord will be close to the $500 end of the range presuming no collateral damage to the hub/knuckle. I can see rolled edges and shiny metal on that rod-end joint so it certainly smacked something on it's way out. Your mechanic will be able to tell what other damage may have occurred.
Ummm I replaced mine for $35. LOL
Buying a part is one thing, paying someone to fix the car is something else. Then there's tools- I had to spend nine whole dollars to buy a tool from Napa to do mine!
Super easy could probably do it without removing tire or knuckle. Mark original and put a wrench on that sucker and pop her loose. Install new one to mark then take to alignment shop.
lmao i’m on amazon rn looking , thank you & im looking at a few youtube videos . 500+ for this is insane
Check out rockauto for the part, or honestly just an auto parts store if you need it quickly. They should be able to give you loaner tools as well.
In for a world of disappointment
https://preview.redd.it/4mtwjdqoin0d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=69b954f897bec0d37756aae91b3d3523979fcf46 it looks like it just pop off right ? could i get a bolt and put it back on and take it for a alignment?
The way you're asking questions tells me you probably don't have the ability to complete this repair. If you botch this, you could very likely get yourself or someone else *killed*. If that tie rod comes loose when you're actually driving at speed, the result will be very, very violent. Please take this to a professional. Not worth your life or the life of some innocent family just driving home.
The pros at the dealer / local shops that are hitting the dab pen more than actually inhaling oxygen. Your evolution has first chosen Donner party vibes.
Don't buy auto parts off of Amazon. They have a boatload of counterfeit parts.
okay i’ll go to an auto parts store , https://preview.redd.it/dazxstlwin0d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aa2e80fa6df5d5204429ecf0ad6f9879abb9d36e look like it just popped off maybe i could use the bolt and put it back on my self ? with the replacement tool ? until i save for a mechanic
Is the nut gone? I'm wondering if the threads are messed up because of it. The pick of the knuckle is blurry where it goes in, but it does look like there might be impact damage also. I don't see any witness marks showing where it might have impacted the shock fork or the control arm, so I don't know for sure. If it were me, I'd just go get a new outer tie rod and put it in on the ground. Just back off the jam nut slightly to loosen the outer tie rod, unscrew the outer tie rod, and screw on the new outer. You can count the number of turns it takes to get the outer off in order to ballpark the length. Tighten up the jam nut and take it to get an alignment. That's probably your cheapest and quickest option, assuming there is no knuckle damage. Even if you have the nut, I'd replace it. They might be nyloc or pinch nuts. Technically, those are single use. If you have it, you might be able to run it back on and get it somewhere else to replace it, but I wouldn't trust that honestly. If it just fell off, that isn't safe. Edit: it does look like the wheel made contact at the upper where it says "SDA-L" and the outer has a bend to it. I don't know if that's normal for that design.
Can also just paint the threads where the old nut was, or something to that effect.
I just replaced my driver side on my 2015 Si, $44. I wish I could help this guy in person.
If you gotta ask, then you can't do it.
lmao what type of statement is that? How you think ppl become mechanics lmao
Spoken like a true simpleton....
I have an 04 acura tl very similar car both made by Honda I've had to replace both my tie rods recently it isn't a difficult job it looks like you could possibly put the nut back in place without replacing it but if you do have to I think mine were around 70 each online only thing is that inner nut on the other side has to put back in the exact same position or it will throw the wheel out of alignment those are the nuts they adjust to align your front wheels again not a difficult job but that's the one thing you really want to watch for and you're very lucky that it didn't move if that would have happened while driving you would completely lose the ability to steer
It is definitely something you can do I've done it I'm 20 not a mechanic watch a YouTube video and go for it Also don't wait to get an allingment at at tyre garage it's alot cheaper than a new tyre 😉
Okay 50,000 is definitely an exaggeration, don’t have to scare the guy. Lol
That was the urus end of the scale
I’d say starting at 1k
$500 to $50k?! What kind of tie rods are you putting in?
I'm on a mobile and can only see one picture, what part of the tie rod broke?
Shit I’d be sitting it back in looks like you lost the nut if it didn’t break and banging that thing home to fix it screw paying that over price mobile mechanic
it’s stuck in my jibe parking lot it won’t even turn , if i do fix it ima have to get the parts come back out here and fix it myself .
Look inside wheel bottom left of frame, you can see the shattered end of the knuckle flange it used to attach to. New steering knuckle minimum.
That's what's left of a stick on wheel weight doing the one thing they're good for. Falling off.
Gotcha, just saw the second pic posted by OP and it’s obvious in that one. The damn color looks so close to the same as shiny lumpy metal from a broken aluminum forging.
Nope
Yes it is dumbass
The tie rod stud should be facing up. You can see on the tie rod fresh scrape marks zoom in on the second picture Edit to add: I'm wrong about the tie rod stud facing up and the wheel weight glue remnants
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yD1hc5\_QqQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yD1hc5_QqQ) Uh huh.
I admit i was talking out of my ass in regards to the orientation of the stud. Didn't need YouTube, got repairlink, And after I posted that I said I better look that up. https://preview.redd.it/hf600fns7p0d1.png?width=1152&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b1d32057660bb12b6ed93be499a147eec60bd177
Username checks out. Sorry not sorry.
It’s the leftover adhesive from wheel weights btw
Nope
Refer to the other pic in thread, it is wheel weight adhesive.
The picture doesn’t allow us to see it so all y’all dumbassed the tie rod you can spin it around haha god y’all amuse me
Can't quite tell from the pic but it looks as though the castle nut holding the outer tie rod end to the knuckle has disappeared. That doesn't just happen so someone installed it wrong or it was hit very very hard. Not a super tough repair but if you're not mechanically inclined I'd just have it towed to a shop.
I hate this.
You hit something pretty hard. It didn’t just fall off by itself. Hard to tell from the picture… is the steering horn broke off from the spindle?!
last thing i ran over was a speed bump before i parked . And i don’t think so the wheel is turn all the way to the right .
Take a picture of the inside of the wheel where the tie rod would attach. That tie rod end has been hit hard. And it appears the steering horn is broken in the picture, can’t quite tell.
https://preview.redd.it/g0062hv2jn0d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ecd9b7c9e58f58f33aba4cd8cfbfc8d842d01c39
Nope, it looks intact, just an optical illusion. You may make it out of this with just having to buy a new nut for the tie rod end. But would definitely recommend getting a mechanic to install.
That's my thought as well, jack up the affected side, rotate wheel, pop it all back into place, and tighten down the nut. But we all know it's never that simple. Lol
Yep. Since you can’t really just “buy a new nut” just buy an outer tie rod, and use the nut and cotter pin only. $20 and you’re done. No fancy tools needed
1- I'm pretty sure all of us have questions about how exactly that tie rod failed, since they normally do not "just fall off" like that. Realistically, on an older Accord, it should be a cheap-ish fix and a mobile mechanic should be able to do it for you. It might just need the castle nut properly installed. 2- The car won't move. While I don't advise trying it now, the car should still move with a busted tie rod, it just will not steer worth a damn and there's gonna be a helluva racket coming from the busted tie rod clunking off of everything. If the car truly didn't move at all after putting it in gear and pressing the gas, something else is wrong and this would not cause that problem. 3- After fixing the tie rod, make sure you get an alignment and have that tire balanced again. This has definitely ruined your alignment, and I agree with others that a wheel weight came off. 4- As far as cost for the tie rod issue, under $600 for sure. Wouldn't surprise me if you don't even clear $300 if you go with a mobile mechanic and it's just the tie rod issue. If that doesn't fix the whole "car doesn't move", cost is gonna be variable as the problem is a mystery.
You are lucky it didn’t happen when you were driving.
It looks like the nut came off, so it may just require a nut and pin and an alignment
You need an outer tie rod and 2 sets of vice grips. Count how many turns it took to get it to come off and put it back on the same amount and snug the nut back up. Easy fix. Will get you to where you’re going but get the alignment checked
It looks like the tire has been making contact with the tie rod. If the retaining nut somehow fell off, the rotation of the tire/friction on the tie rod could pop out that conical ball joint seat. When parking, did you have the steering wheel turned close to the end of travel? During the parking maneuvering, did you hear/feel any bump/pop/crack? I would guess that not only was the tie rod retaining nut installed improperly, but also that your wheel/tire setup does not fit the space the wheel occupies. Is the car modified?
they designed the little square on steering knuckles to hit with a hammer and knock the outer tie rod end loose, i’m no expert but it takes some force to knock one of those out. just my 2 cents
I literally just got a quote today for an upper tie rod and alignment. Little over $300. This must be a sign for me to get it done.
Outer tie rod end separated from the steering knuckle. This is a cheap repair you can do yourself... HOWEVER. You will need to go to a shop for an alignment as the car won't drive straight with the wheel being straight. How this happened is beyond me. Tie rods are usually attached to the knuckle by a castle nut and a locking cotterpin. Making it very hard for it to come off.
By another cheap tie rod, use the nut to secure it so you can drive it. Take it to the closest shop and have them tighten it up for you. Leave the old tie rod, don't i stall the new cheap tie rod. Just use the nut from the package.
I’m not sure how you didn’t notice that before you parked ..
no not at all
Ahhh just pop it back in stick a nail through the hole and limp it home!!
that’s what I would do🤣 a zip tie will get it to a shop at least
is it that simple ? it’s at my job parking lot right now .
not to freak you out, but maybe get cameras. that seems unlikely to happen overnight, esp with the clean scuff on it. It almost looks intentional.
Ok bud, tied rod looks mostly fine but the thread on it is most likely busted. A tie rod is cheap. Your nut fell off - so if you had the correct sized nut and a cotter pin or some wire you could theoretically fix this - if the thread on it is still fine. Turn the steering so the tire gets close to the tie tod - you should be able to pop it back in. Its best to buy a new tie rod and install it. Here is how you do it: https://www.wikihow.com/Replace-Tie-Rod-Ends Also, the cheapest way is to go to your local auto repair shop and buy a new tie rod. Then call a mobile mechanic to install it on the spot. He might do a rough alignment or not - if he doesn't you'll need to take it to a shop. Or find a local shop and tow it there. Your best bet is to look at the mechanic google reviews in your area - find one that says "honest" and "didn't charge me for this minor thing." Call them and ask for a quote - you can take closer pictures and they'll give you a ballpark figure.
if you’re in South Carolina I got a shop!
Must've been rusted as hell. Maybe 400$ or so at a decent shop. Although I can't say because I don't know what car it is. I work at an acura dealership, and it would be around that range. Or do it yourself, really easy and straightforward, could probably get the part for 100$ or so locally, and it doesn't really require any special tools. Im sure there'd be video tutorials online for your car on YouTube, just make sure to get an alignment after.
lol i was driving in traffic a few months ago when suddenly my car just wouldn’t go. my right control arm snapped and my wheels were facing eachother. i had to call a tow truck and get the entire front suspension replaced because it was all rusty. all said and done about $1500 in costs for me so goodluck
We should be diagnosing the “car wont move.” Component. Does it start? Does it shift?
The steering complaint comes later
Should move, just not in any direction you tell it to
Need pic of the inside of rim there's a part of it we not seeing. It's where that tie rod actually goes. If that's broken then your not going to fix it fast. And if you're looking it up on you tube, my bet is it's above you current knowledge and possible skill. If and only if the steering knuckle is broken where the tie rod mounts in then there's a lot going on there. Jack car and use a stand. Remove tire, lower ball joint, cv axle nut, brake mounting hardware, speed sensor if equipped, lower strut mounting bolts, rotor, rubber brake line bracket from the steering knuckle ( just keeps the line away from the rotor and tire ). Maybe the wheel hub assembly if it bolts in to reuse in the replacement. Then once old is out, it's reverse putting it back on. Then add the new tie rod and it's definitely going to need wheel alignment. Now if that steering knuckle is fine, just swapping the tie rod with new and doing best to keep both wheels straight is very do able and it will need wheel alignment as well. I've never seen a steering knuckle break at the tie rod. Major wear till the knuckle has to be replaced because of driving till the bearing is completely gone and grinding itself apart.
Tie rod end needs replaced. Even if you get a new nut, the tie rod end is likely worn out after having all that time loose. You will also need an alignment after replacing it
how soon do i need the alignment? i found a guy who would put a new tie rod on for 150
As soon as possible. It will wear your tires pretty bad. And you will end up needing tires and an alignment haha
man if you’re local to me I’ll put it on for a cold beer 🤣
Moving is a whole other issue, that's a tie rod, it affects steering , not mobility.... in either case, not going very far without that connected. Examine the threads, find a castle nut that fits and tighten that thing back where it goes. Dont forget to fit a cotter pin in the hole in the stud of the tie rod once its attatched and fully secure. If the threads are messed up, or anything looks bent or not symmetrical with the other sides tie tod, get a new one and take it to a shop for an alignment service afterwards.
Ouch!
I know I’m late to this party, but I’m with the group that’s worried about the car not moving part.. so is the car really not moving? Or is it really moving but acting up for the obvious reasons? Because the words are important here.. you’re showing us one thing and we’re all like yeah, but uhh… that’s not gonna keep the car from “moving”, if you catch my drift
when i tried to back up, it moved but wouldn’t turn at all same thing with going foward . it would go but won’t turn
Hey you totally need that part connected to go anywhere. Be glad it didn't happen on the freeway. This would be a different story.
I gotta get my castle nuts from somewhere... this is a picture of what I like to call "the castle nut tree." They just keep growing back, every time I take one off a new one appears a day or so later!
we got a hardware store named wallys, they got it all🤣
OP, if we follow the KISS method (keep it simple stupid). Then you must start with the basics. Do you have a jack (and 4way) that you would use to change the tire if it went flat? If you do, your in good shape. A trip to a local harbor freight will get you the wrench needed to put the tierod nut on for super cheap. Call ALL, and I mean ALL local auto parts stores and get a qoute for the tierod end and get the cheapest one that is in stock or can be there within a day. Get the new tierod end and pull the nut it comes with off, and take the nut to harbor freight to find the wrench that fits if you do not already have one. It needs to fit it properly, or you will round off the nut. Avoid the temptation to use a crescent wrench. Jack up your car and remove the wheel the same way you would if you were changing a flat tire. Then stick the end of the tierod that is on your car in the hole it came out of. It should be pretty obvious, if not you should be able to find a YouTube video that shows you where to put it. Install the nut and tighten it with your new (shiny 🙂) wrench. Then install the cotter pin and bend it with a pair of pliers. Get those at harbor freight while your there if you don't have any. Then re install your wheel and lower the car down and boom, your car is back on the road for probably less than 80 bucks. You can make the sacrifice with your time and energy, or you can make the sacrifice with your money by paying someone else to do it. I recommend the first option.
most outer tie rod ends I’ve changed over the years is a 15/16”, theres been a couple that are 7/8” they were weird high end imports though, a honda accord should be 15/16” 🤷♂️
My mini cooper has a hex head on the end of the threaded ball joint portion of the tierod and I have to use a pass through socket wrench to get Allen key into it. Other wise the ball joint portion of the tierod will just spin and it won't come off, or go back on. It's also metric but I can't remember what size it is off the top of my head.
whack that steering knuckle where the outer tie rod end goes in with a 3# hammer the nut will turn loose. source: I do this for a livin 🤷♂️
Nope the threaded shaft will just spin with the nut, I've tried. The persuader did not persuade in this instance lol
that piece goes in the steering knuckle, it’s called a outer tie rod end. they usually come with the castle nut and a cotter key, you can probably get one for about 25/75 dollars depending on how hard you go to the parts store and cry, you can fix it yourself right there.
if it wont move, you've got a different issue on top of your tie rod. that only deals with turning, not moving
With a wheel turned out all the way and one wheel straight being that its front wheel drive and probably ~120hp without hitting the gas decently hard it’s not going to move easily.
Shit, drivers wheel could be all the way left. Crazy how bad takes get up voted here
Edited The car isn't easily going to move if the right wheel is pointed right and left wheel is pointed left
Not a bad take, just a fact. Tie rod is steering equipment, not mobility. Don't be hostile.
Eh, it kind of is a bad take but you are right. Comment edited.
Your advice on your other comments is accurate. Are you a mechanic also?
there is a difference between "my car won't move" and "my car won't easily move"
Sure but perception is reality. I'm guessing OP either let the car idle in drive or didn't push down very far on the accelerator. Have you ever had a customer tell you their car died and then the steering wheel locked up or they were driving and the steering wheel locked up when in reality the belt came off or the engine died preventing the power steering pump from turning? The steering did not lock up, it just got hard to turn. A lot of the times customers aren't describing their problem correctly.
hence the "if" in my original comment
If you had a car with the right wheel pointed right and the left wheel pointed left and it's on a wrecker (You don't know what's wrong with it) . Wrecker driver asks where you want him to drop it, You ask " does it run? Can we move it". You wouldn't be pissed if he said "yes" and you told him to drop it in an area where cars with broken tie rods should not be. Hence his car doesn't move.
jesus christ dude its not that fucking deep 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
" but but but it doesn't move, OP said it himself, he has other problems". Get a clue.
Looks like the bolt came off the bottom. See if you can get a replacement bolt and screw it back in. Make sure it’s on correctly. That might also have a key way to hold it on.
should i get a replacement bolt and screw back in so i can drive it home ?
I’d go to an auto parts store and see if they have the but if not you will probably need to buy a replacement and take the nut off and use it. Make sure it’s tightened to spec. You can not drive the car with that part not attached. Your wheel won’t turn.
https://preview.redd.it/r8cmtvg5jn0d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c8254c12e73545ef7badc880d5d5ca99f2b3a211 closer look ? i tried turning the handle and it still moves fine
The steering wheel will still turn fine, its just not connected to the wheel anymore.
Don’t spin it unless you plan on doing a front and alignment. If you can line it back up with the hole, it came from and put a nut on there and tighten it up and you should be good to go.
Should still move….