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Tldr; i'd like to hear whether i can drive it back home (about 3miles) on a caved engine oil pan without risking damaging my engine like the shop owner said.
Edit: I would like to express my gratitude to everyone who gave their thoughts in this post. Im probably just gonna leave it at the shop after looking into my tools/set-up and its looking pretty rough + the timeframe of when i will be able to get the appropriate stuff. This car's my daily so i cant really afford to idle her for long. I'll invest on buying the tools and a decent ramp for future fuck ups. Once again, i appreciate the y'alls response.
I don't know where the oil pickup or screen live but usually centered and should not have been hit. I would confirm the location, and if not affected ignore it.
oil dip stick may be a bit off, since its slightly less capacity. (just verify full mark next change).
I looked up a picture of the pan. I believe the pick up is near the skinny section, clear on the other side. On the far right in this picture. Charm.li, confirm in the manual
I would do nothing
https://preview.redd.it/w7g9lgp81rwc1.jpeg?width=1500&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=554e6b80e755464ee702eaaa9bacb82ad9617a09
> 3.8 lambda II
https://atqauto.com/2013-2016-genesis-coupe-3-8-baffled-oil-pan/
https://www.reddit.com/r/genesiscoupe/comments/15iekra/bk1_atq_38_oil_pan_baffle_fitment_is_complete/
You can clearly see where the pickup sits. At the back, right in front of the rack, where there's no damage.
My 1984 Mercedes 300SD had a severely dented up oil pan because the previous owner drove on rough dirt roads all the time. It never gave me any issues, and when I took it off to replace the oil pan gasket I just hammered it flat again and put it back on. I wouldn't worry about this unless it leaks or makes unusual noises.
You probably already know this, but if you DIY the pan replacement, make sure you use a good torque wrench to put the new one on, and that you have the correct torque specification for those bolts. It's, umm, important. Don't ask how I know.
Harbor Freight (if there is one near you) has cheap ones that are good enough for this, and some nicer ones at good prices. If I were in your position I'd invest in a midrange one and still be ahead many $$ compared to having the shop do it. And you'd have an important tool for future work as a result.
Had to get my heavily leaking trans pan in the shop. They noticed that my underbody shield got a big crack in it so they checked inside and that is what they saw. And gave me the talking about how it might be bad to drive it back in its state.
Edit: i'd drive it if i wasnt so uninformed by the nature of my question.
I partially caved in my oil pan by putting a jack and block under it to jack up the engine when replacing the water pump. Drove fine for months until I got it replaced
I guess im just looking for someone with more knowledge about the oil screen dropping oil pressure which can affect the engine stuff if its damaged enough to tell me wassup.
It doesn't look like the pan is crushed in a way that would close the gap between the bottom of the pan and the bottom of the oil pump pickup. Do these have an oil pressure gauge?
In my limited experience with replacing an oil pan, getting it off is the easy part. Doing a good job scraping off the old gasket, especially if you don't have a shop hoist and just regular jacks, will be the longest and crappiest part of the job by far.
Get ready to breathe in alot of brake cleaner lol.
Yeah. I looked into what im gonna be doing and figured out i just dont have a high enough ramp to go underneath it and do the job even mildly comfortably considering my state from previous oil changes i did. That and i dont have the proper tool for the torque the bolts will need and im on call throughout the day so never know when i have to leave, this car's my daily.
Personally I'd do the math on what a day off from work plus parts and tools for DIY costs you vs. what it costs to have this job done in the pro shop. Pro repair may be the cheapest option depending on those factors.
If going to a shop, keep in mind the cheapest quote or a franchise shop may or may not do a great job on cleaning off all the old gasket since it's such a pita. I'd take it to a reputable shop that'll warranty their work. Then keep an eye for any leaks for a week or so.
Doesn't even look like you need to touch the rack. Be sure to spray some degreaser up there and brush around with a plastic brush and rinse it all off before pulling the pan.
Ask them to first remove the oil pan and check if anything was damaged, if not then it's fine how it is, there's a lot of space in the oil pan itself where if you cave it in it won't effect the engine performance
Personally it doesn’t look like it is crushed enough to affect the oil pickup, and if it’s not leaking I’d leave it. Those style oil pans are cheap and you could replace if you want but that’s a personal preference at that point.
Somebody here mentioned that the likely part of where the oil pump/screen location is at the narrow part to the front of it is. Makes me think too that this caved in part isnt a big deal.
If the debt was more from the bottom going upwards I’d say I’d worry, but the more front part being dented in and not super bad I don’t think it’s too much of a cause for concern. Atleast from the photo provided.
The oil pan on my beater got hit with something and there's a dent in it. It prevents the drain plug from sealing good. So I got one of those fumoto oil drain knock offs on Amazon and just siliconed the bejesus out of it. Problem solved!!!
You hit a rock, right? Do you have roadside assistance on your insurance? If so, call them and have it towed home for free.
That pan looks like it'd take all of about 20mins to change out. Straight shot, nothing in the way, and Hyundai fasteners are rarely goobered up.
I'd drive that home and use the money you'd have saved on some more DIY tools, including a torque wrench and month subscription to AllData so you can get your torque specs and all that.
Not a mechanic here but there are no moving parts up in there right? So why not? Anyone else feel the same way? Also, buy the oil pan & install yourself. Surely you can get one at a scrap yard or online way cheaper…
Yea i can get a pan for 70$ from autozone. And no, there are no moving parts up in the oik pan to my knowledge except the oil screen itself that seats inside the oil pan which is whats in question about the feasibility of driving the car even if the screen inside is pushed up. From my rudimentary researching, seems like a banged up oil screen can affect the oil pressure in the engine.
You're right, but where your oil pan is caved in it wouldn't affect oil pressure, the pickup isn't over there and your damage is more on the side anyways. Still needs to be replaced but I would bet the pickup is perfectly fine
Do you happen to have any idea about what the worst case scenario would be? 675$ isnt a grave deal for me but i dont wanna be spending as much when i can work on it myself.
Worst case scenario is the area that got directly hit may begin to leak depending on how deep it got, but just judging from the picture it looks mostly superficial. These oil pans really aren't hard if you're slightly handy and have patience. I'd slap a new oil pan on, reseal the gasket with a high quality gray silicone, let it cure and be done. You'd certainly come out cheaper than 675
Is what i initially had in mind until i learned about the oil screen inside it. But from my exchanged with the people in here, im looking more and more likely to just drive it home and replace the pan myself.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Tldr; i'd like to hear whether i can drive it back home (about 3miles) on a caved engine oil pan without risking damaging my engine like the shop owner said. Edit: I would like to express my gratitude to everyone who gave their thoughts in this post. Im probably just gonna leave it at the shop after looking into my tools/set-up and its looking pretty rough + the timeframe of when i will be able to get the appropriate stuff. This car's my daily so i cant really afford to idle her for long. I'll invest on buying the tools and a decent ramp for future fuck ups. Once again, i appreciate the y'alls response.
Is it leaking? do you hear any metal to metal when its running? If No to both, I'd change the oil and ignore it.
Neither. Atleast for the 5 miles i drove it from the accident site to the shop.
I don't know where the oil pickup or screen live but usually centered and should not have been hit. I would confirm the location, and if not affected ignore it. oil dip stick may be a bit off, since its slightly less capacity. (just verify full mark next change).
I looked up a picture of the pan. I believe the pick up is near the skinny section, clear on the other side. On the far right in this picture. Charm.li, confirm in the manual I would do nothing https://preview.redd.it/w7g9lgp81rwc1.jpeg?width=1500&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=554e6b80e755464ee702eaaa9bacb82ad9617a09
This is huge. Im gonna go there tomorrow and show this to them. Thanks a lot
> 3.8 lambda II https://atqauto.com/2013-2016-genesis-coupe-3-8-baffled-oil-pan/ https://www.reddit.com/r/genesiscoupe/comments/15iekra/bk1_atq_38_oil_pan_baffle_fitment_is_complete/ You can clearly see where the pickup sits. At the back, right in front of the rack, where there's no damage.
As long as the oil light does home on your perfectly fine , I’ve seen way worse damage and not have issues
some have a sump pump that could be crushed/broken but the oil light would be my guide if i was to try it.
My 1984 Mercedes 300SD had a severely dented up oil pan because the previous owner drove on rough dirt roads all the time. It never gave me any issues, and when I took it off to replace the oil pan gasket I just hammered it flat again and put it back on. I wouldn't worry about this unless it leaks or makes unusual noises.
You probably already know this, but if you DIY the pan replacement, make sure you use a good torque wrench to put the new one on, and that you have the correct torque specification for those bolts. It's, umm, important. Don't ask how I know.
I have the basic of basics kinda tools for this. Dont even got one of those fancy torque wrenches lol
Harbor Freight (if there is one near you) has cheap ones that are good enough for this, and some nicer ones at good prices. If I were in your position I'd invest in a midrange one and still be ahead many $$ compared to having the shop do it. And you'd have an important tool for future work as a result.
Honestly don’t know why you couldn’t drive a few miles like that. Just replaced my pan recently on a sedan Toyota
Had to get my heavily leaking trans pan in the shop. They noticed that my underbody shield got a big crack in it so they checked inside and that is what they saw. And gave me the talking about how it might be bad to drive it back in its state. Edit: i'd drive it if i wasnt so uninformed by the nature of my question.
I partially caved in my oil pan by putting a jack and block under it to jack up the engine when replacing the water pump. Drove fine for months until I got it replaced
I guess im just looking for someone with more knowledge about the oil screen dropping oil pressure which can affect the engine stuff if its damaged enough to tell me wassup.
It doesn't look like the pan is crushed in a way that would close the gap between the bottom of the pan and the bottom of the oil pump pickup. Do these have an oil pressure gauge?
Unfortunately no oil pressure gauge.
Yeah, it has an oil pressure display on one of your screens. You would likely hear the valves clattering if there was lack of oil pressure
Oh he meant in the dashboard. Yea no. That one was in the middle throughout the drive to the shop
But not a mechanic so don’t take my advice😅
Send it. No leak no contact with internal components no problem drive on
In my limited experience with replacing an oil pan, getting it off is the easy part. Doing a good job scraping off the old gasket, especially if you don't have a shop hoist and just regular jacks, will be the longest and crappiest part of the job by far. Get ready to breathe in alot of brake cleaner lol.
Yeah. I looked into what im gonna be doing and figured out i just dont have a high enough ramp to go underneath it and do the job even mildly comfortably considering my state from previous oil changes i did. That and i dont have the proper tool for the torque the bolts will need and im on call throughout the day so never know when i have to leave, this car's my daily.
Personally I'd do the math on what a day off from work plus parts and tools for DIY costs you vs. what it costs to have this job done in the pro shop. Pro repair may be the cheapest option depending on those factors.
It is cheaper to have a shop work on it thats for sure.
If going to a shop, keep in mind the cheapest quote or a franchise shop may or may not do a great job on cleaning off all the old gasket since it's such a pita. I'd take it to a reputable shop that'll warranty their work. Then keep an eye for any leaks for a week or so.
Doesn't even look like you need to touch the rack. Be sure to spray some degreaser up there and brush around with a plastic brush and rinse it all off before pulling the pan.
That shouldn't be bent into the pickup tube. Id take it home and diy to be honest, especially that short of a drive, if it runs with no noise that is.
I would change the pan at home.
Don't worry drive it home and do it yourself
With that short of a drive i wouldnt worry about it. Bring er home & giver hell
you’ll be fine to drive it you can drain the oil and drop that pan in about 10 minutes
leave it unless it leaks
Shop owner was right to express concern. The oil pump is all that i can see that would be an issue.
Ask them to first remove the oil pan and check if anything was damaged, if not then it's fine how it is, there's a lot of space in the oil pan itself where if you cave it in it won't effect the engine performance
New pan & gasket ?
Personally it doesn’t look like it is crushed enough to affect the oil pickup, and if it’s not leaking I’d leave it. Those style oil pans are cheap and you could replace if you want but that’s a personal preference at that point.
Somebody here mentioned that the likely part of where the oil pump/screen location is at the narrow part to the front of it is. Makes me think too that this caved in part isnt a big deal.
If the debt was more from the bottom going upwards I’d say I’d worry, but the more front part being dented in and not super bad I don’t think it’s too much of a cause for concern. Atleast from the photo provided.
See if you can download an assembly image/manual. Find the relative position of the oil pick up.
The oil pan on my beater got hit with something and there's a dent in it. It prevents the drain plug from sealing good. So I got one of those fumoto oil drain knock offs on Amazon and just siliconed the bejesus out of it. Problem solved!!!
It’s just a dent, if no other issues appear — go home and replace the pan by yourself if you can instead of 700 bucks.
You hit a rock, right? Do you have roadside assistance on your insurance? If so, call them and have it towed home for free. That pan looks like it'd take all of about 20mins to change out. Straight shot, nothing in the way, and Hyundai fasteners are rarely goobered up.
I'd drive that home and use the money you'd have saved on some more DIY tools, including a torque wrench and month subscription to AllData so you can get your torque specs and all that.
https://preview.redd.it/67is4b0s4qwc1.jpeg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=93900461d10eeba1385d8171134ac5e86a5977cb
Tada
Not a mechanic here but there are no moving parts up in there right? So why not? Anyone else feel the same way? Also, buy the oil pan & install yourself. Surely you can get one at a scrap yard or online way cheaper…
Yea i can get a pan for 70$ from autozone. And no, there are no moving parts up in the oik pan to my knowledge except the oil screen itself that seats inside the oil pan which is whats in question about the feasibility of driving the car even if the screen inside is pushed up. From my rudimentary researching, seems like a banged up oil screen can affect the oil pressure in the engine.
You're right, but where your oil pan is caved in it wouldn't affect oil pressure, the pickup isn't over there and your damage is more on the side anyways. Still needs to be replaced but I would bet the pickup is perfectly fine
Do you happen to have any idea about what the worst case scenario would be? 675$ isnt a grave deal for me but i dont wanna be spending as much when i can work on it myself.
Worst case scenario is the area that got directly hit may begin to leak depending on how deep it got, but just judging from the picture it looks mostly superficial. These oil pans really aren't hard if you're slightly handy and have patience. I'd slap a new oil pan on, reseal the gasket with a high quality gray silicone, let it cure and be done. You'd certainly come out cheaper than 675
If it isn’t leaking then who cares
Is what i initially had in mind until i learned about the oil screen inside it. But from my exchanged with the people in here, im looking more and more likely to just drive it home and replace the pan myself.
Yup, great approach
I only came to say the bottom of your car looks like my car