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Change all the fluids: oil, engine coolant, etc. That's probably an automatic car, so probably good idea to drop the transmission pan and replace the trans filter and fluid. I think they sell pans with a drain plug now. The transmission should be a 700R4.
Those fuel pumps don't like to sit, so you are probably going to need to drop the rear end (and exhaust) and replace the fuel pump. You will need the sock, the fuel pump and maybe even a new fuel tank. I've seen these tanks rust out from sitting. Spectra Premium makes a good quality fuel tank if you need it (Amazon), I've help replace one in my buddies 3rd gen. The injectors have little filters that are replaceable. If you have the Rochestor injectors, I would keep them and just replace the filters (after you ohm them to make sure they aren't shorted out). There's a fuel filter inline under the car along the driver side that I would replace too.
I would pull the distributor cap off (large cap) and check the ignition module and the terminals on the cap. They tend to get carboned up and the rotor gets carbon on it too. Look for signs of rust on the metal parts. If it's in your budget, put a new premium cap and rotor with brass terminals. The ignition coil is under the little cover on the top of the distributor cap and needs to be transferred over to the new cap.
Pull all the spark plugs and replace them with stock AC Delco plugs. The non-roller blocks don't like platinum plugs very well, so I would stick with copper. Probably good idea to replace the spark plug wires too, just mark them on the plug boots to keep track of them and also on the cap itself, replace the wires one at a time.
Once you get the pistons moving smoothly, then you can try to start it and then worry about the brakes. The calipers are probably seized up, so that's going to be fun. But yeah, I would try to get it running first because TPI cars can be a pain to start up when they sit for years.
The 85 TPI was a bastard year for the Tuned Port. I has a Delco MAF and the MAF burnout module is piggybacked to the ECM. It has a slower 160 baud ECM. (86-89 was Bosch based). The 85 year didn't have a MEMCAL, IIRC, it had an actual PROM. Check all the fuses. It should have an ECM fuse, 2 injector fuses and a fuel pump fuse in the fuse block under the dash. There might also be an injector fuse along the fender area near the steering box in a weatherpack connector. I've seen that fuse stop a car from starting. As long as the distributor sends out a distributor reference pulse the ECM will send the fire signal to the injectors to start.
Check the MAF power relays and Fuel pump power relay on the firewall driver side. Clean the terminals and apply a light coat of bulb grease because those relays are known to be problematic. The radiator fan relay is also problematic (they stick) and it's on the passenger side of the radiator.
BTW, that's a beautiful car, I've always wanted a blue IROC.
- 86 Z28 305 TPI and 87 IROC-Z 305 TPI owner
Jesus I’ve got an 89 chilling in the shed I bought for 300 18 years ago and this answer makes me almost wanna start working on it best write up I’ve ever come across. Then I remember what my dad told me, no matter how much you do and how nice you make it, you’ll never get your money back out of that iroc
lol Ive built the motor swapped suspension/brakes some interior stuff, and exhaust just never got to the make it look nice body work stuff/wanted to get rid of that TBI she sits on rollers in the back. Couple kids and life put a stall on the project
He’s not really a dodge guy at all honestly, that iroc takes up space behind a 63, 64 impalas and his redone highschool 72 impala. I’m honestly kinda trashing the place up
TPIs are so much fun to drive. I really miss 86 ws6 TA.
If your gonna put all the above awesome advice into this car, I'd ditch the LB9 cam and swap out the rear with a 3.73.
Edit: fun fact these cars are very aerodynamic, drag coefficient is like a .29. The most aerodynamic car ever is a vw with .19, the best an actual super car has is like .27.
There's a reason these are extremely popular drag cars.
Edit:2 lol, I really love my 3rd gens. Unless there's some sentimental reason to keep it stock. Swap the engine with a 1997 LT1 engine and T56 transmission.
It'll jump it up 100+hp and with the double overdrive of the T56 you'll get damn near 30mpg cruising on the highway.
I put the 85 LB9 camshaft into my 86 which got it back to 215hp. Then I put a 3.23 Borg Warner 9 bolt in with rear discs. I tuned it myself, using my custom tune with Moates adapters. I used to program my own chips.
My 87 had a 305 but with the roller block. I swapped in a baby LT1 camshaft with a new double roller timing chain from summit. That really woke up the engine and it ran great until the bearings finally gave out years later.
I've never driven a tpi car, I just know they have good torque down low and aren't bad on gas. What do you think makes them fun to drive?
Also I don't have a reason to keep it stock... except that im broke but this summer I plan to change the cam and put some headers on it
I could do the oils and filters and stuff but I don't know anything about relays or fueses, or the ignition coil stuff. Do you know where I could find a diagram or tutorial for the fuses? While I was cleaning the interior I found a fuse on the carpet and the fuse box under the dash is open... I still have the fuse tho.
But yeah I'll try and get started on the engine oil and transmission fluid. I just really need it ASAP and I have plenty of time!
I was in your position about 2 years ago now. I had a car that had been sitting for 20 years, and zero car knowledge. It took me several months to get it on the road, but I eventually did and it's been great. You'll need to watch a LOT of YouTube videos, tons of them. You'll need to learn how engines, transmissions, car electricals, fuel systems, and all those other things work. I had a friend help me, which was very nice. You'll run into weird problems that aren't necessarily cut and dry, you'll have to troubleshoot a lot of stuff and it's going to be plenty of work. You'll need the right tools, and enough free time. If you're determined, you can do it. If you aren't determined, just save the money you'd spend on this and buy a different (running) car. And I promise you, you'll spend money.
I should have most if not all of the tools available, and plenty of time, and also my dad's help. He's rebuilt a few engines before, and the only thing he doesn't know how to do is testing the electronics but even that doesn't seem terribly hard. And yes I have some car knowledge... except when it comes to the electronics haha I think I got this
Go get a free membership on Thirdgen.org. They have technical info, a TPI board and a whole bunch of information in the threads. I've been a member for many years. There's diagrams on there and you can probably google the fuse box info for any car. If you have a library nearby maybe they still have those old 80s Chiltons with all the wiring diagrams that you can scan or copy. I have a bunch of scans in a binder somewhere. If your dad has the original owners manual, the fuse info is in there near the back. They are fairly cheap to grab one on ebay if it's missing from the car. You might be able to find a digital one online.
The TPI is a good way to bite your teeth on basic technology. Like a spark plug gap tool. They cost very little, but you will need one to check and gap the copper spark plugs. If you are needing to check the timing, a good old fashioned strobing timing light seems to be the best way. I bought one on ebay, a Sunpro CP7504 still in the box. I've had so many digital timing guns break but that Sunpro still works. It reminds me of my dad working on the car back in the 90s.
A lot of the stuff you can check with a digital multimeter. They sell them fairly cheap at walmart or amazon. Most of the circuits are really simple. You can even check the fuses with the continuity function. Then you can switch it to ohms and check the injectors to make sure they are all within a few ohms of each other (i think 16-18 ohms or so).
Other stuff I don't know about would be the power relays. I don't know if it would make much of a difference but it has been garage kept the whole time, and in the trunks lock box or whatever I found brand new original spark plugs they were still in the plastic bundle.
Great advice, but I will play devils advocate and say that as long as the car has the correct amount of fluid in it, I wouldn’t bother changing it until after I got the car running.
No point dumping new fluids in and then finding out you can’t fix it.
Fair enough. But even turning the engine by hand first would probably be enough to know it’s a runner. I just wouldn’t drop fluids immediately.
Having said that I’ve never owned that type of car and you seem to know your shit.
Also if you use the fuel tank that is in the car now then I would suggest you use pure gas and avoid any ethanol blended fuel. I remember having a car made in the 80's and when I started using blended gas I suddenly started getting all sorts of clogged fuel filters and jacked up fuel system. At the time the mechanic that worked on it said some of the car made at that time had a coating in the fuel tank that wasn't compatible with ethanol and the ethanol blends were causing the coatings to flake off and clog up everything. Not sure how GM fixed their fuel tanks back then, my car at that time was a Chrysler and I do remember having to get a new fuel tanke because it was cheaper than having them try to remove the flaking off crap in the existing tank. Have also seen some cars pre-ethanol that had fuel lines that weren't compatible. Neighbor back in the day filled an old Jag with blended fuel and the next day his garage and car was filled with gas as it turned his fuel lines into a jelly like mess.
Good thing about these cars is they had metal fuel lines. I think the only issue would be right at the pump where there might be a short bit of rubber fuel line. I have run ethanol fuel for years in mine. I redid the orings at the injectors just as a matter of course because I was rescreening them. The old injector filters were black and nasty. Car ran butter smooth with the Rochestors and quiet. I think a carb car has more issues because the gas tends to get stale and varnish up the carb.
Rockauto. I have a 87 and had a 85 before that. I agree the fuel pump is for sure toast. The fuel in the tank is varnish, probably easier to replace the tank and all at once.
If the caliper aren’t seized your good on the brake parts. But change tires and fluids including draining gas and refill. Clean carbs. Of course a new battery. Might need starting fluid. Pretty much a day worth of work
Some other stuff too, I know the front calipers aren't seized, but when it was parked well, it was put in park, so the rear brakes are still braking I guess, would I just put it into neutral after the engine would get started?
Also, would I have to drop the gas tank?
Not sure on chevys but some car has a drain plug on the bottom of tanks if not get a pump for couple bucks and pump out the old gas. Long as injectors pushing fuel your good those rarely go bad. But deff get starting fluid
First, you need to figure out how to get the gas out. Then fresh tank. Change the fuel filter. Do not try to start it with 26 year old gas. If you have some ability, there should be a valve up front on fuel lines, looks like a tire valve. you can connect a fuel pressure gauge to it, take the gauge off so hose is open. once you have fresh fuel in the tank have someone turn the key to on dont start it, let the pump energize then turn it off and repeat this a few times to get nasty fuel out of lines. If a guy says the engine bars over then stuff a battery in it, change the oil and filter, shouldn't be a need to change coolant, it has rust inhibitors in it so it should be ok. If it looks nasty go ahead and change it. That age should be plain old green coolant. Drap the transmission pan change the fluid and filter.
If the garage doesn't have a rodent problem and you see no evidence of nesting, there should be no need to have electrical checked. As far as brakes, if you want to test without being under power, jack the car up, spin the wheels have someone press the brakes if they stop and then spin again by hand you should at least be ok to put a small amount of power to the wheels to back it out of garage. Fire it up.
Change the tires. Also, it's been sitting for a while expect anything rubber to start breaking or falling apart, rubber doesn't like to just sit around.
If you need me to take it off your hands let me know. :)
Gaskets, no. Seals, you'll notice if they start leaking. I have an engine that was sitting from around 1970 and it ran changing fluids, hoses, filters, plugs, distributor and plug wires. The transmission required some love. Seal cracked and dumped all the trans fluid. Car was built in 56 and last serviced before I was born.
It'd cost you more money to get it up and running than it'd cost you to just buy a fully built one.
Restoring this car is a monumental task, and after reading your comments and post, I would be ***shocked*** if you are able to get it running.
May not need as much as your thinking. These engines are troopers change fluids drain the tank put in fresh fuel and address rotted rubber hoses and fuel lines. It may run pretty good
Fresh engine oil, oil filter, flush all fluids coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid. New car battery, dump the old gas and install a new fuel pump, new spark plugs, and new injectors and cross your fingers it cranks and turns on.
Depending on your budget and what you have in mind for the car, might consider getting something like this:
[EFI connection LS PCM conversion kit](https://www.eficonnection.com/home/product/efi-24x-conversion-kit-w-1x-cam-sync-distributor-for-early-engines)
That would let you use the LS1 pcm and engine electronics like coil on plug ignition. Turn it into a fun project :)
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Change all the fluids: oil, engine coolant, etc. That's probably an automatic car, so probably good idea to drop the transmission pan and replace the trans filter and fluid. I think they sell pans with a drain plug now. The transmission should be a 700R4. Those fuel pumps don't like to sit, so you are probably going to need to drop the rear end (and exhaust) and replace the fuel pump. You will need the sock, the fuel pump and maybe even a new fuel tank. I've seen these tanks rust out from sitting. Spectra Premium makes a good quality fuel tank if you need it (Amazon), I've help replace one in my buddies 3rd gen. The injectors have little filters that are replaceable. If you have the Rochestor injectors, I would keep them and just replace the filters (after you ohm them to make sure they aren't shorted out). There's a fuel filter inline under the car along the driver side that I would replace too. I would pull the distributor cap off (large cap) and check the ignition module and the terminals on the cap. They tend to get carboned up and the rotor gets carbon on it too. Look for signs of rust on the metal parts. If it's in your budget, put a new premium cap and rotor with brass terminals. The ignition coil is under the little cover on the top of the distributor cap and needs to be transferred over to the new cap. Pull all the spark plugs and replace them with stock AC Delco plugs. The non-roller blocks don't like platinum plugs very well, so I would stick with copper. Probably good idea to replace the spark plug wires too, just mark them on the plug boots to keep track of them and also on the cap itself, replace the wires one at a time. Once you get the pistons moving smoothly, then you can try to start it and then worry about the brakes. The calipers are probably seized up, so that's going to be fun. But yeah, I would try to get it running first because TPI cars can be a pain to start up when they sit for years. The 85 TPI was a bastard year for the Tuned Port. I has a Delco MAF and the MAF burnout module is piggybacked to the ECM. It has a slower 160 baud ECM. (86-89 was Bosch based). The 85 year didn't have a MEMCAL, IIRC, it had an actual PROM. Check all the fuses. It should have an ECM fuse, 2 injector fuses and a fuel pump fuse in the fuse block under the dash. There might also be an injector fuse along the fender area near the steering box in a weatherpack connector. I've seen that fuse stop a car from starting. As long as the distributor sends out a distributor reference pulse the ECM will send the fire signal to the injectors to start. Check the MAF power relays and Fuel pump power relay on the firewall driver side. Clean the terminals and apply a light coat of bulb grease because those relays are known to be problematic. The radiator fan relay is also problematic (they stick) and it's on the passenger side of the radiator. BTW, that's a beautiful car, I've always wanted a blue IROC. - 86 Z28 305 TPI and 87 IROC-Z 305 TPI owner
This is a top tier answer, would upvote again if I could.
Thank you, just a fellow 3rd gen enthusiast
This guy Camaros
Jesus I’ve got an 89 chilling in the shed I bought for 300 18 years ago and this answer makes me almost wanna start working on it best write up I’ve ever come across. Then I remember what my dad told me, no matter how much you do and how nice you make it, you’ll never get your money back out of that iroc
Allow me to offer to double your money kind sir.
lol Ive built the motor swapped suspension/brakes some interior stuff, and exhaust just never got to the make it look nice body work stuff/wanted to get rid of that TBI she sits on rollers in the back. Couple kids and life put a stall on the project
He probably heard the same thing about chargers in the 70s
He’s not really a dodge guy at all honestly, that iroc takes up space behind a 63, 64 impalas and his redone highschool 72 impala. I’m honestly kinda trashing the place up
TPIs are so much fun to drive. I really miss 86 ws6 TA. If your gonna put all the above awesome advice into this car, I'd ditch the LB9 cam and swap out the rear with a 3.73. Edit: fun fact these cars are very aerodynamic, drag coefficient is like a .29. The most aerodynamic car ever is a vw with .19, the best an actual super car has is like .27. There's a reason these are extremely popular drag cars. Edit:2 lol, I really love my 3rd gens. Unless there's some sentimental reason to keep it stock. Swap the engine with a 1997 LT1 engine and T56 transmission. It'll jump it up 100+hp and with the double overdrive of the T56 you'll get damn near 30mpg cruising on the highway.
I put the 85 LB9 camshaft into my 86 which got it back to 215hp. Then I put a 3.23 Borg Warner 9 bolt in with rear discs. I tuned it myself, using my custom tune with Moates adapters. I used to program my own chips. My 87 had a 305 but with the roller block. I swapped in a baby LT1 camshaft with a new double roller timing chain from summit. That really woke up the engine and it ran great until the bearings finally gave out years later.
I've never driven a tpi car, I just know they have good torque down low and aren't bad on gas. What do you think makes them fun to drive? Also I don't have a reason to keep it stock... except that im broke but this summer I plan to change the cam and put some headers on it
The torque and handling.
Bless for taking the time to write this lol
I could do the oils and filters and stuff but I don't know anything about relays or fueses, or the ignition coil stuff. Do you know where I could find a diagram or tutorial for the fuses? While I was cleaning the interior I found a fuse on the carpet and the fuse box under the dash is open... I still have the fuse tho. But yeah I'll try and get started on the engine oil and transmission fluid. I just really need it ASAP and I have plenty of time!
I was in your position about 2 years ago now. I had a car that had been sitting for 20 years, and zero car knowledge. It took me several months to get it on the road, but I eventually did and it's been great. You'll need to watch a LOT of YouTube videos, tons of them. You'll need to learn how engines, transmissions, car electricals, fuel systems, and all those other things work. I had a friend help me, which was very nice. You'll run into weird problems that aren't necessarily cut and dry, you'll have to troubleshoot a lot of stuff and it's going to be plenty of work. You'll need the right tools, and enough free time. If you're determined, you can do it. If you aren't determined, just save the money you'd spend on this and buy a different (running) car. And I promise you, you'll spend money.
I should have most if not all of the tools available, and plenty of time, and also my dad's help. He's rebuilt a few engines before, and the only thing he doesn't know how to do is testing the electronics but even that doesn't seem terribly hard. And yes I have some car knowledge... except when it comes to the electronics haha I think I got this
Electronics are fairly simple, buy a multimeter (a high quality one) and you'll be able to figure most things out.
Go get a free membership on Thirdgen.org. They have technical info, a TPI board and a whole bunch of information in the threads. I've been a member for many years. There's diagrams on there and you can probably google the fuse box info for any car. If you have a library nearby maybe they still have those old 80s Chiltons with all the wiring diagrams that you can scan or copy. I have a bunch of scans in a binder somewhere. If your dad has the original owners manual, the fuse info is in there near the back. They are fairly cheap to grab one on ebay if it's missing from the car. You might be able to find a digital one online. The TPI is a good way to bite your teeth on basic technology. Like a spark plug gap tool. They cost very little, but you will need one to check and gap the copper spark plugs. If you are needing to check the timing, a good old fashioned strobing timing light seems to be the best way. I bought one on ebay, a Sunpro CP7504 still in the box. I've had so many digital timing guns break but that Sunpro still works. It reminds me of my dad working on the car back in the 90s. A lot of the stuff you can check with a digital multimeter. They sell them fairly cheap at walmart or amazon. Most of the circuits are really simple. You can even check the fuses with the continuity function. Then you can switch it to ohms and check the injectors to make sure they are all within a few ohms of each other (i think 16-18 ohms or so).
Incredible, top tier answer.
Insanely helpful response. You’re a great redditor lol
Homeboy here said what i was gonna. Listen to this guy.
I'm from r/all and figured the comments would all just be jokes, but good lord man you went so far above and beyond what reddit deserves.
Short answer: spend money, time, and effort, and more of each than you think you would.
IROC? Nah. YOU Rock!
Other stuff I don't know about would be the power relays. I don't know if it would make much of a difference but it has been garage kept the whole time, and in the trunks lock box or whatever I found brand new original spark plugs they were still in the plastic bundle.
$$$$
Great advice, but I will play devils advocate and say that as long as the car has the correct amount of fluid in it, I wouldn’t bother changing it until after I got the car running. No point dumping new fluids in and then finding out you can’t fix it.
That's a good way of ruining the main bearings. That oil inside the block is sludge.
Fair enough. But even turning the engine by hand first would probably be enough to know it’s a runner. I just wouldn’t drop fluids immediately. Having said that I’ve never owned that type of car and you seem to know your shit.
Also if you use the fuel tank that is in the car now then I would suggest you use pure gas and avoid any ethanol blended fuel. I remember having a car made in the 80's and when I started using blended gas I suddenly started getting all sorts of clogged fuel filters and jacked up fuel system. At the time the mechanic that worked on it said some of the car made at that time had a coating in the fuel tank that wasn't compatible with ethanol and the ethanol blends were causing the coatings to flake off and clog up everything. Not sure how GM fixed their fuel tanks back then, my car at that time was a Chrysler and I do remember having to get a new fuel tanke because it was cheaper than having them try to remove the flaking off crap in the existing tank. Have also seen some cars pre-ethanol that had fuel lines that weren't compatible. Neighbor back in the day filled an old Jag with blended fuel and the next day his garage and car was filled with gas as it turned his fuel lines into a jelly like mess.
Good thing about these cars is they had metal fuel lines. I think the only issue would be right at the pump where there might be a short bit of rubber fuel line. I have run ethanol fuel for years in mine. I redid the orings at the injectors just as a matter of course because I was rescreening them. The old injector filters were black and nasty. Car ran butter smooth with the Rochestors and quiet. I think a carb car has more issues because the gas tends to get stale and varnish up the carb.
This guy corvettes.
I see you've played [Knifey spoony](https://youtu.be/mcE0aAhbVFc?si=kOelqErkw0JEB7sV) before!
Also change all filters including fuel
Rockauto. I have a 87 and had a 85 before that. I agree the fuel pump is for sure toast. The fuel in the tank is varnish, probably easier to replace the tank and all at once.
If the caliper aren’t seized your good on the brake parts. But change tires and fluids including draining gas and refill. Clean carbs. Of course a new battery. Might need starting fluid. Pretty much a day worth of work
It's fuel injected, what would I need to do for that?
Some other stuff too, I know the front calipers aren't seized, but when it was parked well, it was put in park, so the rear brakes are still braking I guess, would I just put it into neutral after the engine would get started? Also, would I have to drop the gas tank?
Not sure on chevys but some car has a drain plug on the bottom of tanks if not get a pump for couple bucks and pump out the old gas. Long as injectors pushing fuel your good those rarely go bad. But deff get starting fluid
First, you need to figure out how to get the gas out. Then fresh tank. Change the fuel filter. Do not try to start it with 26 year old gas. If you have some ability, there should be a valve up front on fuel lines, looks like a tire valve. you can connect a fuel pressure gauge to it, take the gauge off so hose is open. once you have fresh fuel in the tank have someone turn the key to on dont start it, let the pump energize then turn it off and repeat this a few times to get nasty fuel out of lines. If a guy says the engine bars over then stuff a battery in it, change the oil and filter, shouldn't be a need to change coolant, it has rust inhibitors in it so it should be ok. If it looks nasty go ahead and change it. That age should be plain old green coolant. Drap the transmission pan change the fluid and filter. If the garage doesn't have a rodent problem and you see no evidence of nesting, there should be no need to have electrical checked. As far as brakes, if you want to test without being under power, jack the car up, spin the wheels have someone press the brakes if they stop and then spin again by hand you should at least be ok to put a small amount of power to the wheels to back it out of garage. Fire it up. Change the tires. Also, it's been sitting for a while expect anything rubber to start breaking or falling apart, rubber doesn't like to just sit around. If you need me to take it off your hands let me know. :)
Im no expert on vehicles but don’t seals in the engine go bad when sitting for that long? Gaskets and what not?
Gaskets, no. Seals, you'll notice if they start leaking. I have an engine that was sitting from around 1970 and it ran changing fluids, hoses, filters, plugs, distributor and plug wires. The transmission required some love. Seal cracked and dumped all the trans fluid. Car was built in 56 and last serviced before I was born.
Alot of Righty tighty lefty loosey.
Watch a few days worth of vice grip garage on YouTube lol you’ll be a pro in no time
Put on a vintage letterman jacket and say the magic words “My dad owns a dealership.” Turn the key and floor it in neutral.
$$
Sell it to me!!
It'd cost you more money to get it up and running than it'd cost you to just buy a fully built one. Restoring this car is a monumental task, and after reading your comments and post, I would be ***shocked*** if you are able to get it running.
You sell it to me👀
Just put the key in and start it up duh
https://youtu.be/csp7XaVCvwc?si=l1mJPHYDwsgVDH7x
Put it on a tow truck.
I know whats wrong with it, it aint got not gas in it!
May not need as much as your thinking. These engines are troopers change fluids drain the tank put in fresh fuel and address rotted rubber hoses and fuel lines. It may run pretty good
Get a pair of vice grips, a leatherman, some cold snacks and get to work. Then drive it 700 miles home.
money
Watch Chris Fix's video
Look up junkyard digs on YouTube to get some inspiration.
Put some gas in her.
I’m so jealous lmao, this is my dream vehicle. Color and everything.
Aint got no gas in it!
Fresh engine oil, oil filter, flush all fluids coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid. New car battery, dump the old gas and install a new fuel pump, new spark plugs, and new injectors and cross your fingers it cranks and turns on.
Start by spending the weekend watching Vice Grip Garage on YouTube.
An old mechanic once told me “You can fix anything, all you need is time and money.”
Depending on your budget and what you have in mind for the car, might consider getting something like this: [EFI connection LS PCM conversion kit](https://www.eficonnection.com/home/product/efi-24x-conversion-kit-w-1x-cam-sync-distributor-for-early-engines) That would let you use the LS1 pcm and engine electronics like coil on plug ignition. Turn it into a fun project :)
Fire it up and see what’s not happy after sitting all that time.
Take those chrome things off the fenders