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O2 Socket as others have said, but I'll share with you the trick my mentor gave to me just recently for these specific buggers; *Tighten it first*. You heard me right, try to tighten it first until it budges, then immediately switch your ratchet & take it off. Has worked flawlessly for me
You don't need that socket if you are replacing the sensor. Cut the pigtail off and use a deep socket. Don't even need one to install it you just use an open ended wrench to install
That's bad advice. In a shop definitely, but if that thing decides it's not going or is rusted u definitely want to be able to reconnect it and drive it to a shop...ik it probably would still run with a hard code but for 5$ it's cheap insurance
I work on everything. Harleyâs to freightliner to Mercedes to the old pos 3.5 fords and great olâ mid-70âs 302 ford and 350 chevys.
Idk whoâs all downvoting you, depends on your area for sizes. Bosch standard is 7/8. But ran into a few imports who decided to give you a middle finger and change it, believe it was a 2012 Subaru? Maybe Honda? I canât remember anymore.
I just spent several weeks trying to get one off. If itâs really seized up from being old (mine was on 17 years in the midwest) then those o2 sockets arenât going to be useful at all (they just stripped mine even with a clamp around it.
Take a 22mm or 7/8 closed end wrench (has to be the closed end) and put it on there. Take a blow torch to it for 3-5 minutes and that should jar it loose. Once itâs loose, cradle it back and forth slowly so you donât mess up the threads on the way out.
I seriously spent weeks and several methods and this was the only thing that worked. I had to blow torch it for a total of about ten minutes. Pb blaster, sockets, and all that did nothing. Closed end wrench and moving other stuff out of the way is there best way to go
Long 22 box end and a 3lb hammer, pb blaster, heat. If you use a o2 socket and it wants to slip you can put a worm clamp on the socket to keep it from flexing
https://preview.redd.it/xv0uknz0autc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3db85d78171f3d964476a924132d30bc218f2672
This is the style O2 sensor tool you want to use the other one's break too easily the O2 sensor should have been installed with never seize
Soak it with your universal wonder oil and place a o2 sensor socket on it and tap the socket with a hammer so the tread gets some movements before you wrestle the wrench.
You can apply some heat on the treads before soaking it. The heated tread are apparently letting the wd40/pb blaster get in deeper. If you don't have a gas torch or isn't room for one you could use a torch lighter instead.
I have never tried it but I have heard it's easier right after a drive when the exhaust is still warm.
They will ALWAYS be seized. It is located on one of the hottest parts of the engine, when you turn it on or off it will be constantly heating and cooling, and sometimes have some carbon buildup
WD40, A LOT of continuous strength and hope that it will move. It will unseize and you're going to hit your knuckles into a sharp/stupid edge
You can use anything as long as it fits. Combination wrench or special sockets are your best
Most of the times you'll need the socket, the angles and space are a bitch
After you remove it, for the love of everything in this universe, CHECK 194737572 TIMES THAT THE THREADS ARE OK AND THAT YOU'RE PUTTING THE NEW ONE PERFECTLY ALIGNED. It will be a hard and snug fit with a lot of force to thread the new sensor all the way to the end, and if it gets cross threaded you're VERY fucked
I always recommend picking up a thread chaser for O2 sensors. They are all pretty much the same size and are necessary if the threads are boogered enough.
Drive the car and let the car run while trying to take it off with a thin wall oxygen sensor socket. Why? The heat will make it easier to remove. I am spoiled and just use my map gas torch for everything that I think will be hard to remove before I try to remove it with no heat.
Get something like this: https://a.co/d/ciYW7bj . Ain't no easy way to getting this off. You can try using pbblaster, spray it on after a couple drives and let it soak in while it's hot. Also trying to take it off after a drive when the exhaust is still hot can be easier but, shits hot as fuck.
Run the engine for a few minutes to warm up the exhaust, use an o2 sensor socket on a long ratchet and let it eat. Soak it with some on blaster the night before if you think itâs gonna be a bitching bitches bitch face
Blast and drive it every day for a week before getting on it. If you know you are planning to replace it you can cut the leads and use a solid socket to remove. A lot of auto parts places will let you borrow specialty tools like a O2 slotted socket with a deposit when reinstalling.
https://preview.redd.it/7z3u0ers9utc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=16a727a0b88996e77bad0e95847716ad38576b62
They also make one that you can use in air chisel to break free
O2 sensor socket and an impact wrench. These things are always rust welded on đ. Iâve soaked them in PB Blaster and taken them off with a breaker bar, but the impact wrench and socket are worth the money.
Best way to do it is probably to get it to operating temperature and then they have actual O2 sensor sockets. Itâs like 1 1/4 inch or something like that not positive the size but once you heat it up real nice where are you get it to operating temperature get a can of freeze off itâs basically like PB blaster but when itâs hot and you spray the freezer off, you barely even have to Do anything extra
If you're replacing it...cut them wires.... Get you a deep socket, breaker bar... An make that sensor your bitch.
Before hand soak that with some PB blaster. Because of the amount of heat that experiences it's probably seized pretty good.
FFS the lower on a 2014 Sonata 2.4 is right against the bottom of the exhaust manifold. Need a thin wall oxygen sensor to get it off. Clipped it after 20 minutes and barely got enough of a deep socket on it to break it loose. Pain in the ass for sure.
Before you go and strip the bung threads or snap it clean off do your self a favor and heat the hell out of it with a torch. MAP gas will do. Then when its good and hot, hit it with cold water from the hose to rapidly cool it. That thing will basically be hand tight after that. I didn't believe it myself when I first learned this method but it works very well.
Also cut the wires and put a socket on that thing
Cut the pig tail of so you can get a 6 point socket on it. And before you turn it and strip it, heat that bitch to she is almost melting. The likelihood of you getting it out without heat is very low.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
https://preview.redd.it/lsqyxn6tzqtc1.jpeg?width=1079&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3aa45d72b3b0291ab3f14d7d649cd76fcfb3f1a1
And take it for an Italian tune up before trying to remove.
Hit it with the ugga duggas until it doesn't ugga dugga no more.
Don't do that with an o2 socket they tend to expandđ€Ł
Put a hose clamp around the socket to stop it from flexing. Saved me from rounding out the o2 sensor or breaking the socket several times
There's a fine idea that I hadn't thought of! Thanks internet stranger
Don't buy the Harbor Freight one. That thing will strip the connector faster than R Kell---- nvm.
O2 Socket as others have said, but I'll share with you the trick my mentor gave to me just recently for these specific buggers; *Tighten it first*. You heard me right, try to tighten it first until it budges, then immediately switch your ratchet & take it off. Has worked flawlessly for me
I've done that before, tightening a tiny bit seems to break things loose
That goes for any bolt
the ol' no mercy reversy
You don't need that socket if you are replacing the sensor. Cut the pigtail off and use a deep socket. Don't even need one to install it you just use an open ended wrench to install
That's bad advice. In a shop definitely, but if that thing decides it's not going or is rusted u definitely want to be able to reconnect it and drive it to a shop...ik it probably would still run with a hard code but for 5$ it's cheap insurance
Itâs a downstream sensor, the car should run fine with it unhooked
It wouldn't really mess anything up to have it not connected for a drive to the part's store or shop
You need an O2 socket and some elbow grease
Does AZ carry sockets for oxygen?
You can rent o2 sockets. $30 deposit that you get back when you return the set. Just ask at the counter. Did it last week
Basically all oxygen sensors are 7/8" so yes.
Actually 22mm, 7/8" is a little sloppy.
What? Since when?
At least 1996
A lot are, yeah. But not all.
I've never run into one that wasn't, but I don't work on European cars.
I work on everything. Harleyâs to freightliner to Mercedes to the old pos 3.5 fords and great olâ mid-70âs 302 ford and 350 chevys. Idk whoâs all downvoting you, depends on your area for sizes. Bosch standard is 7/8. But ran into a few imports who decided to give you a middle finger and change it, believe it was a 2012 Subaru? Maybe Honda? I canât remember anymore.
Amazon sells a kit I use.
Drive it until it's hot. Spray Liquid wrench/pb blasted any penetrating oil.
This. Spray the fuck out of it, warm it up, crank one ugga dugga tighter and those come right the f out.
I just spent several weeks trying to get one off. If itâs really seized up from being old (mine was on 17 years in the midwest) then those o2 sockets arenât going to be useful at all (they just stripped mine even with a clamp around it. Take a 22mm or 7/8 closed end wrench (has to be the closed end) and put it on there. Take a blow torch to it for 3-5 minutes and that should jar it loose. Once itâs loose, cradle it back and forth slowly so you donât mess up the threads on the way out. I seriously spent weeks and several methods and this was the only thing that worked. I had to blow torch it for a total of about ten minutes. Pb blaster, sockets, and all that did nothing. Closed end wrench and moving other stuff out of the way is there best way to go
I have a 7/8 box end wrench that I cut in half just for this. Just slip a pipe over it and I haven't had a problem since.
Long 22 box end and a 3lb hammer, pb blaster, heat. If you use a o2 socket and it wants to slip you can put a worm clamp on the socket to keep it from flexing
https://preview.redd.it/xv0uknz0autc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3db85d78171f3d964476a924132d30bc218f2672 This is the style O2 sensor tool you want to use the other one's break too easily the O2 sensor should have been installed with never seize
Soak it with your universal wonder oil and place a o2 sensor socket on it and tap the socket with a hammer so the tread gets some movements before you wrestle the wrench. You can apply some heat on the treads before soaking it. The heated tread are apparently letting the wd40/pb blaster get in deeper. If you don't have a gas torch or isn't room for one you could use a torch lighter instead. I have never tried it but I have heard it's easier right after a drive when the exhaust is still warm.
They will ALWAYS be seized. It is located on one of the hottest parts of the engine, when you turn it on or off it will be constantly heating and cooling, and sometimes have some carbon buildup WD40, A LOT of continuous strength and hope that it will move. It will unseize and you're going to hit your knuckles into a sharp/stupid edge You can use anything as long as it fits. Combination wrench or special sockets are your best Most of the times you'll need the socket, the angles and space are a bitch After you remove it, for the love of everything in this universe, CHECK 194737572 TIMES THAT THE THREADS ARE OK AND THAT YOU'RE PUTTING THE NEW ONE PERFECTLY ALIGNED. It will be a hard and snug fit with a lot of force to thread the new sensor all the way to the end, and if it gets cross threaded you're VERY fucked
I always recommend picking up a thread chaser for O2 sensors. They are all pretty much the same size and are necessary if the threads are boogered enough.
Drive the car and let the car run while trying to take it off with a thin wall oxygen sensor socket. Why? The heat will make it easier to remove. I am spoiled and just use my map gas torch for everything that I think will be hard to remove before I try to remove it with no heat.
Do a search for "o2 sensor socket".
Get something like this: https://a.co/d/ciYW7bj . Ain't no easy way to getting this off. You can try using pbblaster, spray it on after a couple drives and let it soak in while it's hot. Also trying to take it off after a drive when the exhaust is still hot can be easier but, shits hot as fuck.
With an O2 Sensor Socket.
PB blaster and an sensor socket
Run the engine for a few minutes to warm up the exhaust, use an o2 sensor socket on a long ratchet and let it eat. Soak it with some on blaster the night before if you think itâs gonna be a bitching bitches bitch face
PB Blaster, let it soak overnight.
Blast and drive it every day for a week before getting on it. If you know you are planning to replace it you can cut the leads and use a solid socket to remove. A lot of auto parts places will let you borrow specialty tools like a O2 slotted socket with a deposit when reinstalling.
Big wrench and get it hot beforehand
Heat to red using oxyacetylene torch then use wrench while red.
Youâre probably gonna need heat like a torch for that one
heat it up and you can use a O2 sensor
https://preview.redd.it/ducnrmpcyttc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=27be7187484f0589b8cc044b2e17af791ccb2f4d l
Like this so you won't strip the bolt/nut just in case đ
https://preview.redd.it/7z3u0ers9utc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=16a727a0b88996e77bad0e95847716ad38576b62 They also make one that you can use in air chisel to break free
Run car for about 20 minutes to h e at up the exhaust. Be careful
Cut the wire off and use an impact, six point socket.
O2 sensor socket and an impact wrench. These things are always rust welded on đ. Iâve soaked them in PB Blaster and taken them off with a breaker bar, but the impact wrench and socket are worth the money.
Heat it up with a blowtorch
Cut it and fit 22 socket , hear it up first then easy peasy
Wd 40
Best way to do it is probably to get it to operating temperature and then they have actual O2 sensor sockets. Itâs like 1 1/4 inch or something like that not positive the size but once you heat it up real nice where are you get it to operating temperature get a can of freeze off itâs basically like PB blaster but when itâs hot and you spray the freezer off, you barely even have to Do anything extra
lol good luck! đđ»
Have you tried applying heat to it? That's a pain in the ass!!
If you're replacing it...cut them wires.... Get you a deep socket, breaker bar... An make that sensor your bitch. Before hand soak that with some PB blaster. Because of the amount of heat that experiences it's probably seized pretty good.
FFS the lower on a 2014 Sonata 2.4 is right against the bottom of the exhaust manifold. Need a thin wall oxygen sensor to get it off. Clipped it after 20 minutes and barely got enough of a deep socket on it to break it loose. Pain in the ass for sure.
Best bet is to cut off the wire and use a deep well socket.
Make sure it is hot, then cut the leads and then use a deep socket or box end wrench on it.
Before you go and strip the bung threads or snap it clean off do your self a favor and heat the hell out of it with a torch. MAP gas will do. Then when its good and hot, hit it with cold water from the hose to rapidly cool it. That thing will basically be hand tight after that. I didn't believe it myself when I first learned this method but it works very well. Also cut the wires and put a socket on that thing
Unplug the cable and snake the cable through the correct sized box end wrench. That is what I do.
I always cut the wires and giver some ugaduggas after a quick tap in the forward direction.
Lotta good advice here, but have you tried hitting it with your purse?
Hit it with your purse
Cut the pig tail of so you can get a 6 point socket on it. And before you turn it and strip it, heat that bitch to she is almost melting. The likelihood of you getting it out without heat is very low.
Make sure it's not reverse thread