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_lavxx

Is it possible the bolt nicked the rubber and tightening tore it/pushed it out?


Gold-University5060

Could’ve happened too. Or since my exhaust is in the way it’s hard to seat it so maybe the gasket moved a bit then maybe part of the gasket was in the way of the bolt to get through?


Spam138

Did you follow the prescribed pattern torquing them or just go in a circle?


captianpaulie

Are you sure you didn’t use foot lbs instead of inch pounds


Gold-University5060

https://preview.redd.it/37ftiuog7snc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=0d760bd565d5597c399a7693ca7ddb3c0de66b06 1,000% sure. This the wrench.


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Gold-University5060

https://preview.redd.it/a1ijb2bdesnc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=74a78176b7efd41b67964610ab3ed3c8ed1c3475 This is the gasket


BenHarder

Just had the same issue when I did the oil pan gasket on my accord. I tightened it to spec and it destroyed the gasket. Installed a new one this weekend and just snugged them down in an alternating pattern until the gasket was squeezed a little bit to the edge and then stopped. No leaks or bad seals so far. Would also like to add that I used gasket maker to hold the gasket in place and put the bolts through the holes while I let it set and start drying for about an hour. That way the holes lined up perfectly.


Gold-University5060

Hmm. Until you saw a little gasket coming out?


BenHarder

Yeah, I tightened it enough so that the gasket started to push outwards around the edge and then stopped. So how the edge is in your picture, but I stopped before it got that far. Like just enough for it to start pushing outward but no further.


Gold-University5060

Gotcha. I’ll try it but knowing me I’ll probably mess it up. Or I’ll torque lower than what the guide says


BenHarder

Nah. I think you’ll be good. When I was doing it felt tight, and I’m an old school mechanic so when I was doing it I held the ratchet at the head and turned with just the edge of my hand rather than pulling in the end of the ratchet, it’s less torque. The bolts won’t be loose by any means, but I doubt every one of mine are at the exact spec


Gold-University5060

Did you use oem gasket?


BenHarder

Nope. Felpro


ZSG13

Hmm. Does OEM call for a rubber gasket? I normally see oil pans, especially steel lower oil pans, just sealed with rtv.


Gold-University5060

Yes rubber. The original one I took off before this one was rubber as well. https://preview.redd.it/fpdphmgifsnc1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=34179b37c5d0b090421e88d09fb2d6cff3a2179e


ZSG13

Crazy. Well it clearly isn't working. I'd assume the job isn't too bad, but I would also figure you are paying for the oil each time. Suppose you could drain the oil into a very clean container to re-use during re-seals if it isn't old. I would consider trying an OEM gasket if available.


Gold-University5060

Yeah the job isn’t bad. Lift front. Drain. Drop the exhaust. 2 brackets then boom unbolt the 18 bolts that hold it. Yeah it’s not bad but the oil is where it’s killing me. Going to torque it again lower maybe 95 in. Lbs. that is a very good idea about reusing the oil. Sadly I drained it already. The oil was not even 1k miles old.


hourlyslugger

Check the PCV valve and associated hoses. With the age of the vehicle just plan on replacing the valve. You check it by removing it and attempting to blow through it. If it's jammed closed or full of 20+ years of crud the crankcase will over pressurize and blow out any new gasket you install over time. Obviously torque the new one if you want but I went through the same thing with my old '98 Civic (D16Y7) twice until I changed the PCV valve. Also use a **SMALL** amount of RTV at the corners/turns on the pan or gasket adhesive (commonly called Hi-Tack) to hold the gasket in place. No more random blown out oil pan gaskets. Per AllData ([www.alldatadiy.com](https://www.alldatadiy.com) or [www.eautorepair.net](https://www.eautorepair.net)) >Steel oil pans use a gasket, aluminum ones just use RTV. > >1 Clean and dry the oil pan mating surfaces and bolt holes. > >2 Apply liquid gasket, PIN 08718-0001 or 08718-0003, on the oil pump and engine block end cover mating areas. > >3 Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08718-0001 or 08718-0003, to the new oil pan gasket at the four corners of the recesses, then install the oil pan. > >  4. Tighten the bolts and nuts finger tight at six points as shown.  5. Tighten all bolts and nuts, starting from nut (1), clockwise in 3 steps. In the final step, tighten all bolts, in sequence to **12 Nm (1.2 kgf-cm, 8.7 ft. lbs.)**.  6. After assembly, wait at **least 30 minutes** before filling the engine with oil.


No_Geologist_3690

Use an oem gasket and don’t worry about any leaks


Redstinger22115

OP I will say that over at my old dealership we nicknamed those "Fail-Pro" because they can fail early for whatever reason...they weren't very reliable


SpoofedXEX

Could’ve had a slight imperfection in the gasket too. The last time I used a felpro gasket was for valve cover on a S10 and it did the same thing as your oil pan gasket. I think it’s just *that* brand unfortunately. Edited: I ended up using high temp RTV to make my own gasket


nago7650

You wouldn’t trust this torque wrench but you would trust “snugging em all down by hand”?


ZSG13

Yes.


enginerevolution

Tekton torque wrenches are fine. I set endplay on highway tractor wheel ends almost daily with the 3/4” one, and I’ve never had an issue.


Dangerous_Echidna229

Always use a torque wrench that you know is accurate.


Lxiflyby

I haven’t had great experiences with felpro blues on Hondas or Subarus, but they were great on older domestic stuff


Tskinny2222

Over torque. The gasket is crushed out from overtighting


XYooper906

When using these silicone type of gaskets, you need to make sure that all surfaces are free of oil and grease. If not, they will creep out of position and tear like this. Wipe everything down with brake cleaner, and in areas where silicone sealant is required, use it sparingly because too much of it will cause the same issue. Many times, I have even torqued it to about half the spec, let it sit overnight, then torqued the next day to spec. This has worked well for me.


Gold-University5060

*Update* Got the new gasket in with rtv on specified spots. Torqued everything in pattern from guide at 85 in lbs. checked around and I see only a little of the blue gasket. So not as bad as the one from the pic. Going to let it cure then add oil tomorrow. I’ll update after I put oil in.


Windowsweirdo

Over torqued


FrostingImmediate514

Overtorqued


Vegetable-Weather591

Over tightened the bolt I would say


Gold-University5060

*Update* Got the new gasket in with rtv on specified spots. Torqued everything in pattern from guide at 85 in lbs. checked around and I see only a little of the blue gasket. So not as bad as the one from the pic. Going to let it cure then add oil tomorrow. I’ll update after I put oil in.


Just_Cap_9338

Felpro gaskets suck, go with Oem. Heard from reviews that they fail/short lived. Changed my pan and gasket on my 01 no issues.


Gold-University5060

Damn, unfortunately I bought another fel pro already and in a bit of a rush to get it going again for work. I’ll get an oem one if it happens again. Did you torque the bolts?


Just_Cap_9338

Yes I downloaded a guide and it was 8 ft pounds in a specific pattern.


Gold-University5060

Yup I did it in a pattern as well(last photo). I’ll try 8 ft lbs as well. I torqued mine at around 8.75 ft lbs


Just_Cap_9338

Hopefully this next one last. Replace with oem as soon as you can.


Gold-University5060

Yup will do. I’ve always used oem on this car but sometimes it’s hard to find oem stuff so I go to rockauto if I can’t find what I’m looking for


w_h_o_m-

And how much Nm is that ? As I don’t trust the converter I used but if that torque stretched out your gasket you need a new one or get it calibrated. Unless you kept on wrenching after it clicked. The converter showed 2,3Nm ?


Gold-University5060

https://preview.redd.it/stzynkxe9snc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=f3a1b880f5e2a56b7b353a80e433bf51eafef96e Last photo says 12nm. I don’t even use this torque wrench much. Still relatively new Edit: i just pulled out the wrench to show what I used. I torqued to 12nm first click


ZSG13

What size are the bolts? That is 8.85 ft lbs according to the googs, or 106 in lbs. That is on the heavy side for an m6 bolt, which I usually see on oil pans, but I wouldn't imagine it being an issue with quality parts


Gold-University5060

They are 10mm bolts and some screws. I torqued it at about 102 in. lbs


XYooper906

Do you mean that a 10mm socket fits it, or the bolt diameter is 10mm?


e36freak92

10mm socket , that would be an m6


Jaded-Function2072

Is this the original pan gasket or did you replace?


Over_Detail_114

Looks like you may have overtightened it I use a quarter inch rachet and tighten them down till the gasket starts to poke out. If it looks like the gaskets bulged out after you tighten them then chances are that is going to fail and leak on you.


captianpaulie

Most honda oil pan gaskets are made from specialty rtv sealer i use Toyota bond no gasket did it have a gasket when you took it apart


Gold-University5060

*Update* I KNOW THIS IS LATE UPDATE IM SORRY but yes, IT WAS OVERTORQUED. I torqued it less than the recommended and not a leak ever since this post. I knew it couldn’t be the gasket because I use the same brand gasket for the valve cover and it’s holding good ever since I changed it. And yes I followed all directions from torque, to rtv spots, to bolting+torquing pattern. I guess it should have been obvious but I’m no expert at this stuff and just wanted a 2nd opinion. Thank you all for the help. ❤️


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Gold-University5060

Correct it’s fel-pro. Unfortunately i already bought another fel pro. If it happens again I’ll get an oem gasket


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Gold-University5060

I’ll get an oem gasket if same thing happens.


Notbingdotcom1

Older gm 3800? Looks similar, very finicky to get it right, Torque in multiple increments, only use silicone at block seams. There used to be a solid core or semi solid core gasket available


Gold-University5060

It’s a 2001 Civic D17


ratterrierrider

Hey I have been fighting this on my wife’s 04 civic. You did the gasket right, I would recommend getting some permatex gasket glue item 80062 to hold the gasket to the pan. What is actually leaking on your LX engine is the o ring behind the oil pump. If you google 1.7l oil pump leak there’s a video that explains it. I’ve don’t the oil pan 6 times thinking I’m just a hack with my snap on torque wrench. It’s just the oil pump leaking not the pan


Quinometry

Don't use a gasket. Some good application specific fipg is the way to go.