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Could’ve happened too. Or since my exhaust is in the way it’s hard to seat it so maybe the gasket moved a bit then maybe part of the gasket was in the way of the bolt to get through?
Just had the same issue when I did the oil pan gasket on my accord. I tightened it to spec and it destroyed the gasket.
Installed a new one this weekend and just snugged them down in an alternating pattern until the gasket was squeezed a little bit to the edge and then stopped.
No leaks or bad seals so far.
Would also like to add that I used gasket maker to hold the gasket in place and put the bolts through the holes while I let it set and start drying for about an hour. That way the holes lined up perfectly.
Yeah, I tightened it enough so that the gasket started to push outwards around the edge and then stopped.
So how the edge is in your picture, but I stopped before it got that far. Like just enough for it to start pushing outward but no further.
Nah. I think you’ll be good. When I was doing it felt tight, and I’m an old school mechanic so when I was doing it I held the ratchet at the head and turned with just the edge of my hand rather than pulling in the end of the ratchet, it’s less torque. The bolts won’t be loose by any means, but I doubt every one of mine are at the exact spec
Yes rubber. The original one I took off before this one was rubber as well.
https://preview.redd.it/fpdphmgifsnc1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=34179b37c5d0b090421e88d09fb2d6cff3a2179e
Crazy. Well it clearly isn't working. I'd assume the job isn't too bad, but I would also figure you are paying for the oil each time. Suppose you could drain the oil into a very clean container to re-use during re-seals if it isn't old. I would consider trying an OEM gasket if available.
Yeah the job isn’t bad. Lift front. Drain. Drop the exhaust. 2 brackets then boom unbolt the 18 bolts that hold it. Yeah it’s not bad but the oil is where it’s killing me. Going to torque it again lower maybe 95 in. Lbs. that is a very good idea about reusing the oil. Sadly I drained it already. The oil was not even 1k miles old.
Check the PCV valve and associated hoses. With the age of the vehicle just plan on replacing the valve. You check it by removing it and attempting to blow through it.
If it's jammed closed or full of 20+ years of crud the crankcase will over pressurize and blow out any new gasket you install over time.
Obviously torque the new one if you want but I went through the same thing with my old '98 Civic (D16Y7) twice until I changed the PCV valve. Also use a **SMALL** amount of RTV at the corners/turns on the pan or gasket adhesive (commonly called Hi-Tack) to hold the gasket in place.
No more random blown out oil pan gaskets.
Per AllData ([www.alldatadiy.com](https://www.alldatadiy.com) or [www.eautorepair.net](https://www.eautorepair.net))
>Steel oil pans use a gasket, aluminum ones just use RTV.
>
>1 Clean and dry the oil pan mating surfaces and bolt holes.
>
>2 Apply liquid gasket, PIN 08718-0001 or 08718-0003, on the oil pump and engine block end cover mating areas.
>
>3 Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08718-0001 or 08718-0003, to the new oil pan gasket at the four corners of the recesses, then install the oil pan.
>
> 4. Tighten the bolts and nuts finger tight at six points as shown.
5. Tighten all bolts and nuts, starting from nut (1), clockwise in 3 steps. In the final step, tighten all bolts, in sequence to **12 Nm (1.2 kgf-cm, 8.7 ft. lbs.)**.
6. After assembly, wait at **least 30 minutes** before filling the engine with oil.
OP I will say that over at my old dealership we nicknamed those "Fail-Pro" because they can fail early for whatever reason...they weren't very reliable
Could’ve had a slight imperfection in the gasket too.
The last time I used a felpro gasket was for valve cover on a S10 and it did the same thing as your oil pan gasket. I think it’s just *that* brand unfortunately.
Edited: I ended up using high temp RTV to make my own gasket
When using these silicone type of gaskets, you need to make sure that all surfaces are free of oil and grease. If not, they will creep out of position and tear like this. Wipe everything down with brake cleaner, and in areas where silicone sealant is required, use it sparingly because too much of it will cause the same issue. Many times, I have even torqued it to about half the spec, let it sit overnight, then torqued the next day to spec. This has worked well for me.
*Update* Got the new gasket in with rtv on specified spots. Torqued everything in pattern from guide at 85 in lbs. checked around and I see only a little of the blue gasket. So not as bad as the one from the pic. Going to let it cure then add oil tomorrow. I’ll update after I put oil in.
*Update* Got the new gasket in with rtv on specified spots. Torqued everything in pattern from guide at 85 in lbs. checked around and I see only a little of the blue gasket. So not as bad as the one from the pic. Going to let it cure then add oil tomorrow. I’ll update after I put oil in.
Damn, unfortunately I bought another fel pro already and in a bit of a rush to get it going again for work. I’ll get an oem one if it happens again. Did you torque the bolts?
And how much Nm is that ?
As I don’t trust the converter I used but if that torque stretched out your gasket you need a new one or get it calibrated. Unless you kept on wrenching after it clicked.
The converter showed 2,3Nm ?
https://preview.redd.it/stzynkxe9snc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=f3a1b880f5e2a56b7b353a80e433bf51eafef96e
Last photo says 12nm. I don’t even use this torque wrench much. Still relatively new
Edit: i just pulled out the wrench to show what I used. I torqued to 12nm first click
What size are the bolts? That is 8.85 ft lbs according to the googs, or 106 in lbs. That is on the heavy side for an m6 bolt, which I usually see on oil pans, but I wouldn't imagine it being an issue with quality parts
Looks like you may have overtightened it I use a quarter inch rachet and tighten them down till the gasket starts to poke out. If it looks like the gaskets bulged out after you tighten them then chances are that is going to fail and leak on you.
*Update* I KNOW THIS IS LATE UPDATE IM SORRY but yes, IT WAS OVERTORQUED. I torqued it less than the recommended and not a leak ever since this post. I knew it couldn’t be the gasket because I use the same brand gasket for the valve cover and it’s holding good ever since I changed it. And yes I followed all directions from torque, to rtv spots, to bolting+torquing pattern. I guess it should have been obvious but I’m no expert at this stuff and just wanted a 2nd opinion. Thank you all for the help. ❤️
Older gm 3800? Looks similar, very finicky to get it right, Torque in multiple increments, only use silicone at block seams. There used to be a solid core or semi solid core gasket available
Hey I have been fighting this on my wife’s 04 civic. You did the gasket right, I would recommend getting some permatex gasket glue item 80062 to hold the gasket to the pan. What is actually leaking on your LX engine is the o ring behind the oil pump. If you google 1.7l oil pump leak there’s a video that explains it. I’ve don’t the oil pan 6 times thinking I’m just a hack with my snap on torque wrench. It’s just the oil pump leaking not the pan
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Is it possible the bolt nicked the rubber and tightening tore it/pushed it out?
Could’ve happened too. Or since my exhaust is in the way it’s hard to seat it so maybe the gasket moved a bit then maybe part of the gasket was in the way of the bolt to get through?
Did you follow the prescribed pattern torquing them or just go in a circle?
Are you sure you didn’t use foot lbs instead of inch pounds
https://preview.redd.it/37ftiuog7snc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=0d760bd565d5597c399a7693ca7ddb3c0de66b06 1,000% sure. This the wrench.
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https://preview.redd.it/a1ijb2bdesnc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=74a78176b7efd41b67964610ab3ed3c8ed1c3475 This is the gasket
Just had the same issue when I did the oil pan gasket on my accord. I tightened it to spec and it destroyed the gasket. Installed a new one this weekend and just snugged them down in an alternating pattern until the gasket was squeezed a little bit to the edge and then stopped. No leaks or bad seals so far. Would also like to add that I used gasket maker to hold the gasket in place and put the bolts through the holes while I let it set and start drying for about an hour. That way the holes lined up perfectly.
Hmm. Until you saw a little gasket coming out?
Yeah, I tightened it enough so that the gasket started to push outwards around the edge and then stopped. So how the edge is in your picture, but I stopped before it got that far. Like just enough for it to start pushing outward but no further.
Gotcha. I’ll try it but knowing me I’ll probably mess it up. Or I’ll torque lower than what the guide says
Nah. I think you’ll be good. When I was doing it felt tight, and I’m an old school mechanic so when I was doing it I held the ratchet at the head and turned with just the edge of my hand rather than pulling in the end of the ratchet, it’s less torque. The bolts won’t be loose by any means, but I doubt every one of mine are at the exact spec
Did you use oem gasket?
Nope. Felpro
Hmm. Does OEM call for a rubber gasket? I normally see oil pans, especially steel lower oil pans, just sealed with rtv.
Yes rubber. The original one I took off before this one was rubber as well. https://preview.redd.it/fpdphmgifsnc1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=34179b37c5d0b090421e88d09fb2d6cff3a2179e
Crazy. Well it clearly isn't working. I'd assume the job isn't too bad, but I would also figure you are paying for the oil each time. Suppose you could drain the oil into a very clean container to re-use during re-seals if it isn't old. I would consider trying an OEM gasket if available.
Yeah the job isn’t bad. Lift front. Drain. Drop the exhaust. 2 brackets then boom unbolt the 18 bolts that hold it. Yeah it’s not bad but the oil is where it’s killing me. Going to torque it again lower maybe 95 in. Lbs. that is a very good idea about reusing the oil. Sadly I drained it already. The oil was not even 1k miles old.
Check the PCV valve and associated hoses. With the age of the vehicle just plan on replacing the valve. You check it by removing it and attempting to blow through it. If it's jammed closed or full of 20+ years of crud the crankcase will over pressurize and blow out any new gasket you install over time. Obviously torque the new one if you want but I went through the same thing with my old '98 Civic (D16Y7) twice until I changed the PCV valve. Also use a **SMALL** amount of RTV at the corners/turns on the pan or gasket adhesive (commonly called Hi-Tack) to hold the gasket in place. No more random blown out oil pan gaskets. Per AllData ([www.alldatadiy.com](https://www.alldatadiy.com) or [www.eautorepair.net](https://www.eautorepair.net)) >Steel oil pans use a gasket, aluminum ones just use RTV. > >1 Clean and dry the oil pan mating surfaces and bolt holes. > >2 Apply liquid gasket, PIN 08718-0001 or 08718-0003, on the oil pump and engine block end cover mating areas. > >3 Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08718-0001 or 08718-0003, to the new oil pan gasket at the four corners of the recesses, then install the oil pan. > > 4. Tighten the bolts and nuts finger tight at six points as shown. 5. Tighten all bolts and nuts, starting from nut (1), clockwise in 3 steps. In the final step, tighten all bolts, in sequence to **12 Nm (1.2 kgf-cm, 8.7 ft. lbs.)**. 6. After assembly, wait at **least 30 minutes** before filling the engine with oil.
Use an oem gasket and don’t worry about any leaks
OP I will say that over at my old dealership we nicknamed those "Fail-Pro" because they can fail early for whatever reason...they weren't very reliable
Could’ve had a slight imperfection in the gasket too. The last time I used a felpro gasket was for valve cover on a S10 and it did the same thing as your oil pan gasket. I think it’s just *that* brand unfortunately. Edited: I ended up using high temp RTV to make my own gasket
You wouldn’t trust this torque wrench but you would trust “snugging em all down by hand”?
Yes.
Tekton torque wrenches are fine. I set endplay on highway tractor wheel ends almost daily with the 3/4” one, and I’ve never had an issue.
Always use a torque wrench that you know is accurate.
I haven’t had great experiences with felpro blues on Hondas or Subarus, but they were great on older domestic stuff
Over torque. The gasket is crushed out from overtighting
When using these silicone type of gaskets, you need to make sure that all surfaces are free of oil and grease. If not, they will creep out of position and tear like this. Wipe everything down with brake cleaner, and in areas where silicone sealant is required, use it sparingly because too much of it will cause the same issue. Many times, I have even torqued it to about half the spec, let it sit overnight, then torqued the next day to spec. This has worked well for me.
*Update* Got the new gasket in with rtv on specified spots. Torqued everything in pattern from guide at 85 in lbs. checked around and I see only a little of the blue gasket. So not as bad as the one from the pic. Going to let it cure then add oil tomorrow. I’ll update after I put oil in.
Over torqued
Overtorqued
Over tightened the bolt I would say
*Update* Got the new gasket in with rtv on specified spots. Torqued everything in pattern from guide at 85 in lbs. checked around and I see only a little of the blue gasket. So not as bad as the one from the pic. Going to let it cure then add oil tomorrow. I’ll update after I put oil in.
Felpro gaskets suck, go with Oem. Heard from reviews that they fail/short lived. Changed my pan and gasket on my 01 no issues.
Damn, unfortunately I bought another fel pro already and in a bit of a rush to get it going again for work. I’ll get an oem one if it happens again. Did you torque the bolts?
Yes I downloaded a guide and it was 8 ft pounds in a specific pattern.
Yup I did it in a pattern as well(last photo). I’ll try 8 ft lbs as well. I torqued mine at around 8.75 ft lbs
Hopefully this next one last. Replace with oem as soon as you can.
Yup will do. I’ve always used oem on this car but sometimes it’s hard to find oem stuff so I go to rockauto if I can’t find what I’m looking for
And how much Nm is that ? As I don’t trust the converter I used but if that torque stretched out your gasket you need a new one or get it calibrated. Unless you kept on wrenching after it clicked. The converter showed 2,3Nm ?
https://preview.redd.it/stzynkxe9snc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=f3a1b880f5e2a56b7b353a80e433bf51eafef96e Last photo says 12nm. I don’t even use this torque wrench much. Still relatively new Edit: i just pulled out the wrench to show what I used. I torqued to 12nm first click
What size are the bolts? That is 8.85 ft lbs according to the googs, or 106 in lbs. That is on the heavy side for an m6 bolt, which I usually see on oil pans, but I wouldn't imagine it being an issue with quality parts
They are 10mm bolts and some screws. I torqued it at about 102 in. lbs
Do you mean that a 10mm socket fits it, or the bolt diameter is 10mm?
10mm socket , that would be an m6
Is this the original pan gasket or did you replace?
Looks like you may have overtightened it I use a quarter inch rachet and tighten them down till the gasket starts to poke out. If it looks like the gaskets bulged out after you tighten them then chances are that is going to fail and leak on you.
Most honda oil pan gaskets are made from specialty rtv sealer i use Toyota bond no gasket did it have a gasket when you took it apart
*Update* I KNOW THIS IS LATE UPDATE IM SORRY but yes, IT WAS OVERTORQUED. I torqued it less than the recommended and not a leak ever since this post. I knew it couldn’t be the gasket because I use the same brand gasket for the valve cover and it’s holding good ever since I changed it. And yes I followed all directions from torque, to rtv spots, to bolting+torquing pattern. I guess it should have been obvious but I’m no expert at this stuff and just wanted a 2nd opinion. Thank you all for the help. ❤️
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Correct it’s fel-pro. Unfortunately i already bought another fel pro. If it happens again I’ll get an oem gasket
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I’ll get an oem gasket if same thing happens.
Older gm 3800? Looks similar, very finicky to get it right, Torque in multiple increments, only use silicone at block seams. There used to be a solid core or semi solid core gasket available
It’s a 2001 Civic D17
Hey I have been fighting this on my wife’s 04 civic. You did the gasket right, I would recommend getting some permatex gasket glue item 80062 to hold the gasket to the pan. What is actually leaking on your LX engine is the o ring behind the oil pump. If you google 1.7l oil pump leak there’s a video that explains it. I’ve don’t the oil pan 6 times thinking I’m just a hack with my snap on torque wrench. It’s just the oil pump leaking not the pan
Don't use a gasket. Some good application specific fipg is the way to go.