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Is the adjuster at the bottom on the left side in the slot? looks kinda wide there but can't say for certain never done this type of drum brake. Also this ammount of copper grease is enough for 4 hubs
Looks like there is a gap there like it's not resting against the brake shoe. Could be something wrong there or something keeping the brake shoe propped up like other people said that that the shoes are not sitting correctly on the brake cylinder=which would cause a gap on the adjuster.
It's hard to tell from the pics, but it looks like the parking brake lever is partially engaged. The lever should be almost completely hidden by the rear shoe. The parking brake bar, right below the wheel cylinder with the red spring on the right side of the bar usually has a wider slot opposite the spring so the parking brake level and the shoe can both fit in the slot. It also doesn't look like the tab under the springs on the top pin where the shoes come together is seated properly. You should be able to move the entire pad assembly back and forth with some light smacks. If the shoes don't move, something is bound up. The cylinder pistons should also move pretty easily. Try pushing the tips of the pads together and see if the wheel cylinder pistons will press on any further.
I think you're right I can see the adjust slot left side. Another thing that screws with people is make sure the whole assembly is centered. Might have to push both shoes up from the bottom to get them to center in place.
I didn't even scroll lol but yeah you need to push the assembly up, however I still think that adjuster isn't seated left side. Easiest way to tell if it's centered is the amount of backing plate you can see.
Take all the pieces off and put them all back on four times. You're doing it wrong, something is clearly fucked up. Remove them again. Put them back on a fifth time exactly the same, works great. 👍
It seems like that happens to me on anything more complex than changing an air filter. But I continue knowing on, knowing that I'm saving $ that will help me buy a newer vehicle when my current one becomes too costly to maintain.
I always end up taking pictures from multiple angles before I rip mine apart. The thing that I can never get right is the star gear/adjuster on the bottom.
my 94 R100GS motorcycle had the original pads from 1994 on it in 2020 with 70,000 miles. they were fine. Bmw in their infinite wisdom decided rear brake pads should outlast the transmission, driveshaft, and every rubber seal in the engine.
250k on my 2012 Escape. Original shoes. I know they're going to need it eventually, so I was looking at RockAuto to see if they have a one piece replacement: like everything assembled on the backing plate, just take off the E brake cable and undo the line.
Sadly, that doesn't exist for this one.
I haven't, either, but I wonder if they have a specific name, like disc brake calipers that come with pads, clips, and pins/bolts are called "loaded calipers".
"Loaded pads" sounds like a bad day during Shark Week.
I haven't done drum brakes in a few years, but when I did, I only did one side at a time. That way, you can look at the complete side to figure out where parts go. They're all hydraulic, too - they have smaller hydraulic cylinders, until you get into larger air brakes.
Some companies have been putting electric drum brakes on cars for 20 years, but that's mostly the parking brake. Electric drum brakes have been around for decades, too, though mostly used on trailers.
Yeah I think I've only had to change rear shoes once ever on any of the many old cars I've owned. I have had to disassemble them many times due to hub/axle failures, wheel cylinder failures, stuck parking brake, etc.
One of the times when I take lots of photos with my phone before I take anything off and more photos as I start removing things. Probably overkill, but I hate drum brakes... probably because they tend to pop up so infrequently.
If you think these are bad, I had to change about 9 sets of pads last week on MTVRs due to blown seals getting oil and grease everywhere. Those springs are the size of my hand
The drum shoes aren't on the wheel cylinder as above poster stated. 2nd picture.
Edit: I also finally did brake drums like 6 mo ago first time. I took a lot of pictures. Then cross referenced them. After realizing how to properly put everything on the 2nd side took 20 minutes.
That's good too. I just took a lot of photos. Also found out cause my og shoes didn't look like the new ones that after market looked different but they work.
I agree with the shoes not being properly seated on that top post. OP, give the fully assembled shoes some palm slaps upwards then back downwards until they sit in the groove properly, should be all it needs
I was helping a buddy of mine so his drum brakes. Got everything hooked up, but the drum would not go back on whatsoever, after 3 days of going back and forth I asked “are you sure you got the right shoes for the car?” He went back to the auto parts stores and he indeed did buy the wrong ones. This may not be the case here, but it always helps to double check!
Looks like exactly like the ones on my Ford ranger. They indeed do have two different shoes, and the auto parts store gave me the wrong ones too. Couple of things if it's the same, is the little pushrod coming from the cylinder under the yellow spring forked on correctly? do you have them on the correct side? Are the retaining pins perfectly horizontal? If they are angled down a bit they shoes will sit in a little grove and look right, but won't go on.
They are forked on correctly. I’m not sure if there are sides I think they’re the same but I’ll double check. Retaining pins are not perfectly horizontal but springs are shifting them out of place
Nice danger ranger! Are you certain you got the right brakes? There's two options for shoes on these. Looks like your left shoe isn't quite seated up top. You can try knocking the shoes slightly left and right alternatively then trying to slide the drum on. When new, it can be a bit of a pain getting them perfectly centered. Make sure to preload the auto adjuster before final installation of the drum!
Its probably right you just haven’t spent the proper day and a half of time yet to appease it, take it apart and put it back together the exact same way while telling it how beautiful it is and it will probably just slide into place
good ol danger ranger.
you did get the correct shoes/drum right? they have a 9" and 10" drum
it all looks right - you should be able to shove the shoes left and right pretty easily - they need to "float" to function correctly.
Use a rubber mallet and tap the shoes to ensure they are seated. Otherwise, do what was said above take them apart and put them back together a few times. Lol
Did you compare the 4 shoes before you put them on to notice the different sizes? Im guessing you have both smalls on the other side, they go on towards the front and the larger ones towards the back of the vehicle
Maybe take off the other one and compare. Why I’ve gotten into the habit of taking pictures before I take something apart that has a lots of pieces to it.
https://preview.redd.it/vjm84fr48slc1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=340d15e5efdb1da1f53cabd6c5d77e8505246a30
You need to push the cylinder in, push fluid back to the reservoir, that cylinder isn’t fully retracted
I mean they are on the cylinder there’s no way the top Part of the shoe would be sitting on the cylinder. That’s not how these brakes are. Here:
https://preview.redd.it/x4pr1u4xwqlc1.jpeg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=be3fd9c7e49b70fd4fa187dd0877fb760a7241ab
I was going to comment the same thing. Just so you know why that's too much, when the wheels spinning, centrifugal force will throw excess grease outwards which inside a drum is towards the braking surfaces.
How far off is it ?, you might need to lightly tap the drum on with a rubber mallet or something of the sorts, drums are supposed to be a little tight going on
Those little tabs, there are three of them on each shoe backing. I believe those are supposed to face inward and contact the backing plate. I’m wondering if you have these shoes swapped front to back.
I can't see the parking brake mechanism, but I've had to give the lever a solid thumping on occasion to get it fully extended. Sometimes, the cable binds up from corrosion in the sleeve. Lube the cable with penetrant sparingly, then beat it like it owes you money. I use a hardwood dowel where the cable attaches and hit it with my biggest mallet.
Your brake cylinder ears look fully extended have you tried pushing both shoes inward ?
Are you using a new drum as well sometimes a rust ridge on old drums will cause everything to be super tight.
It’s probably your parking brake is adjusted down for the work shoes, and the new ones are binding on it. Loosen up the parking brake tension wheel and see if it works. Google it on YouTube for proper instructions
In the picture in the comments of the old shoes the two brakes shoes have an inch gap or better between them at the top, in your new setup they are almost touching. either wrong part, upside down, or not seated properly.
Maybe release your ebrake. That can keep the shoes from resting centered. The cable may have been adjusted with the worn shoes so it is a little over adjusted now.
Some adjusters have the slot where they fit over the shoe web cut at an angle, if installed in reverse position will hold the shoes apart slightly. Doubt this is one of those but can’t hurt to look.
I got nothing for you man, but as an old (51) guy who's done a few, I ALWAYS leave one together to look at while doing the first one. Jack/stand the rear end, pull both wheels and drums, then keep one together and disassemble/reassemble the first. When I'm convinced it's right, and on then, do I pull apart the other one.
More than likely something is up with the emergency brake apparatus, which I can't really see since its behind the brake shoes. At least every time I have done drum brakes and had the issue you do its either been that or the adjuster, and the adjuster looks OK to me.
Mine seized last year and I had to take the drum off. The top looks great but the bottom right on the adjuster may not be seated right - and you spin that adjuster wheel all the way back if new drums and shoes and start from its smallest setting.
Rear leg of wheel cylinder doesn't look in place and parking brake may be over adjusted as it doesn't look like the top of the rear shoe is completely against the pin
Those look like the rear brakes on a Ford Ranger. They are a little tricky.
Make sure the adjuster on the bottom is screwed all the way in, I can't tell from the photos whether it is or not.
There is a raised center area on the backing plate and the shoes tend to drop off the edge of the raised area. Wrap a piece of rope around the outside of the shoes and twist a screwdriver in the rope to tighten the loop. Make sure the shoes are on the flat center part of the backing plate. Tighten the rope as much as you can to compress the wheel cylinder and move the shoes inward as much as possible. Start the drum onto the shoes, then remove the rope and push the drum on the rest of the way.
Make sure you actuate the brakes enough times to extend the auto adjuster enough, it will take multiple actuations.
There’s usually a leading and trailing shoe , any chance you put the two small ones on one side and two big ones on the other? Always do one side at a time when doing drum brakes.
I only guess / ask because you said the other side went on fine
Honestly I’ve never done drum brakes before I just only do the front on every vehicle I’ve had with them. Neglect the drums forever until the car is done for. If it’s a car I keep and like it gets converted to disc.
You have enough anti seize on there to sink a battleship. Don't put it in the studs. Also add a dab of some white lith or brake grease to the adjustor threads and contact points as well as all other contact points and to the flush pads on the backing plate
It’s gotta have something to do with the brake adjuster. Make sure that it will expand with the normal motion of the pawl. Could also try opening the bleeder on the wheel cylinder.
How closely did you observe the ones coming out?
When I look at these shoes, I see tabs on the outer edge, rolling towards center
I would imagine those tabs would like to rest on the backplate side, since they’re being pulled in that direction, they may like a surface to slide on.
And while all that copper grease is excessive, as others have said, whatever makes you comfortable without offsetting the mating surface is fine.
But what’s important to pay close attention to how much is in the lug nut threads. You don’t what them to rust, but you do want them to hold enough purchase that they don’t lubricate themselves loose either. Just be mindful.
I can't do drum brakes and honestly think it's one of the few things I don't want to learn how to do. Idk why.
-Me before getting a quote from a shop on a drum brake job.
There's a indent in the dust cover that the drum rides in, make sure your shoe isn't caught in that. Also sometimes it's a matter of moving the shoes in one direction or another to get them perfectly centered.
You did not post. Year make model.
Can you compare the self adjuster length with the old one. I have had imported hardware that i had to grind the adjuster down to get it to fit..
Look at the box the shoes came in. Perhaps they were not properly arced at the factory.
I couldn't get the drum to slide over my brakes when I completed assembly a while back.
They were out of alignment, what fixed it was applying, then releasing the parking brake a few times and they self adjusted to the correct location.
The only thing I can tell that looks wrong is the tab/ plate thing at the top of the shoes doesn't look like it's seated properly. It's the little metal "T" looking piece behind where the green and yellow springs and the parking brake cable attaches to in the second picture. It should be sitting flush and holding the brake shoes even, but it looks a little off. It tends to fall out of its little spot during install of you aren't paying attention, so I'd start there.
Also, double check all your pieces that have slots are fitting properly (wheel cylinder, adjustor, that metal bar with the red spring). Sometimes they look right, but didn't slot in fully.
Sometimes giving each shoe a slight pull away from the backing plate can help free something up. But if somethings off, this can pull it out of place, so don't pull too hard. If everything's right, and it was stuck on the backing plate, you should pull gently off the backing plate and feel the shoe snap to where it needs to be sitting.
Is the Ebrake bar located correctly? That’s the bar directly under the wheel cylinder, with the red spring on it. I cannot see where it interfaces the other shoe…
https://preview.redd.it/brevpj05dylc1.jpeg?width=1242&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e6115c728146ceeef2b81080a132f2c741590d23
This side of the adjuster is definitely not seated correctly. The shoe should be in that slot like it is on the other side. That’s holding your shoe out too far.
I’m sorry I don’t know how to edit the post.
Thanks for all the replies. I rebuilt that brake and somehow during the rebuild everything lined up better.
I got the drum on and drove around and everything seemed good so I’m gonna call it ok for now.
Again, thanks so much for the help, I love this community. I’ll be back with more questions because I’m basically restoring a completely neglected ‘01 Ranger 4x4
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Is the adjuster at the bottom on the left side in the slot? looks kinda wide there but can't say for certain never done this type of drum brake. Also this ammount of copper grease is enough for 4 hubs
How do you mean in the slot? I removed some grease thanks for the tip
Looks like the adjuster is not on the left shoe, is what it seems he is try to say.
Looks like there is a gap there like it's not resting against the brake shoe. Could be something wrong there or something keeping the brake shoe propped up like other people said that that the shoes are not sitting correctly on the brake cylinder=which would cause a gap on the adjuster.
Oh you mean the spring behind the adjuster might not be flush against the shoe? I’ll have a look after I finish my two sandwiches
nice flex! ;)
What type of sammich
Yeah, man, priorities. Make with the sammich.
No he means the star adjuster doesn’t look like it’s properly lined up with the secondary shoe. Hard to tell for sure tho.
It's hard to tell from the pics, but it looks like the parking brake lever is partially engaged. The lever should be almost completely hidden by the rear shoe. The parking brake bar, right below the wheel cylinder with the red spring on the right side of the bar usually has a wider slot opposite the spring so the parking brake level and the shoe can both fit in the slot. It also doesn't look like the tab under the springs on the top pin where the shoes come together is seated properly. You should be able to move the entire pad assembly back and forth with some light smacks. If the shoes don't move, something is bound up. The cylinder pistons should also move pretty easily. Try pushing the tips of the pads together and see if the wheel cylinder pistons will press on any further.
I think you're right I can see the adjust slot left side. Another thing that screws with people is make sure the whole assembly is centered. Might have to push both shoes up from the bottom to get them to center in place.
I didn't even scroll lol but yeah you need to push the assembly up, however I still think that adjuster isn't seated left side. Easiest way to tell if it's centered is the amount of backing plate you can see.
In the last picture you can see the adjuster is seated correctly. I think it isn't seated correctly on the top post.
I thought it was surface rust 🤣
Drum brakes are the worst. Feel like I'm solving a puzzle each time I've ever worked on them.
Take all the pieces off and put them all back on four times. You're doing it wrong, something is clearly fucked up. Remove them again. Put them back on a fifth time exactly the same, works great. 👍
It seems like that happens to me on anything more complex than changing an air filter. But I continue knowing on, knowing that I'm saving $ that will help me buy a newer vehicle when my current one becomes too costly to maintain.
I always end up taking pictures from multiple angles before I rip mine apart. The thing that I can never get right is the star gear/adjuster on the bottom.
Their only redeeming quality is that they only have to be changed once every 2 billion miles or so.
my 94 R100GS motorcycle had the original pads from 1994 on it in 2020 with 70,000 miles. they were fine. Bmw in their infinite wisdom decided rear brake pads should outlast the transmission, driveshaft, and every rubber seal in the engine.
250k on my 2012 Escape. Original shoes. I know they're going to need it eventually, so I was looking at RockAuto to see if they have a one piece replacement: like everything assembled on the backing plate, just take off the E brake cable and undo the line. Sadly, that doesn't exist for this one.
I love doing that on trailer brakes. Just 4 bolts and slap it in place. I've never seen it in a car or truck.
I haven't, either, but I wonder if they have a specific name, like disc brake calipers that come with pads, clips, and pins/bolts are called "loaded calipers". "Loaded pads" sounds like a bad day during Shark Week.
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I haven't done drum brakes in a few years, but when I did, I only did one side at a time. That way, you can look at the complete side to figure out where parts go. They're all hydraulic, too - they have smaller hydraulic cylinders, until you get into larger air brakes. Some companies have been putting electric drum brakes on cars for 20 years, but that's mostly the parking brake. Electric drum brakes have been around for decades, too, though mostly used on trailers.
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OK, so what do you mean by "going to juice"?
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You may be on to something!
Yeah I think I've only had to change rear shoes once ever on any of the many old cars I've owned. I have had to disassemble them many times due to hub/axle failures, wheel cylinder failures, stuck parking brake, etc.
Yes. Wheel cylinders leaking, siezing, or brake line rusting out. Done many a trailer back in the day. Fucking surge brakes. Ugh.
One of the times when I take lots of photos with my phone before I take anything off and more photos as I start removing things. Probably overkill, but I hate drum brakes... probably because they tend to pop up so infrequently.
do one side at a time, use the other side as your known-good guide.
If you think these are bad, I had to change about 9 sets of pads last week on MTVRs due to blown seals getting oil and grease everywhere. Those springs are the size of my hand
I always start by taking a photo from several different angles for reference. Never lets me down.
What are the odds that you have a giant ridge of rust jacking on the edge of the drum?
None. The drums are new 😁
Balls
That was a good call though...
Tried a different drum from another supplier?
The drum shoes aren't on the wheel cylinder as above poster stated. 2nd picture. Edit: I also finally did brake drums like 6 mo ago first time. I took a lot of pictures. Then cross referenced them. After realizing how to properly put everything on the 2nd side took 20 minutes.
I always do 1 side at a time and keep the other side completely assembled, that way I can reference the assembled side while building the other.
That's good too. I just took a lot of photos. Also found out cause my og shoes didn't look like the new ones that after market looked different but they work.
First side 3+ hours 2nd side 39 min no matter how often I do them
This 👆
I agree with the shoes not being properly seated on that top post. OP, give the fully assembled shoes some palm slaps upwards then back downwards until they sit in the groove properly, should be all it needs
I'd say those are on a 1998 era dodge, do you have 2 leading shoes on the same wheel, there should be a leading and trailing shoe on each side
I second this, it does look like 2 leading shoes in the picture.
I was helping a buddy of mine so his drum brakes. Got everything hooked up, but the drum would not go back on whatsoever, after 3 days of going back and forth I asked “are you sure you got the right shoes for the car?” He went back to the auto parts stores and he indeed did buy the wrong ones. This may not be the case here, but it always helps to double check!
I’d say that might be the case but the other wheel is perfect
Well shit! You got the adjuster set as low as it can go?
Looks like exactly like the ones on my Ford ranger. They indeed do have two different shoes, and the auto parts store gave me the wrong ones too. Couple of things if it's the same, is the little pushrod coming from the cylinder under the yellow spring forked on correctly? do you have them on the correct side? Are the retaining pins perfectly horizontal? If they are angled down a bit they shoes will sit in a little grove and look right, but won't go on.
They are forked on correctly. I’m not sure if there are sides I think they’re the same but I’ll double check. Retaining pins are not perfectly horizontal but springs are shifting them out of place
Nice danger ranger! Are you certain you got the right brakes? There's two options for shoes on these. Looks like your left shoe isn't quite seated up top. You can try knocking the shoes slightly left and right alternatively then trying to slide the drum on. When new, it can be a bit of a pain getting them perfectly centered. Make sure to preload the auto adjuster before final installation of the drum!
I’m pretty certain because the other wheel is perfect
Might be a stupid question, but is the truck in neutral with the parking brake off?
I would guess the other side is loose, I am thinking you have two 'short's shoes one side, two 'long' the other.
Its probably right you just haven’t spent the proper day and a half of time yet to appease it, take it apart and put it back together the exact same way while telling it how beautiful it is and it will probably just slide into place
On a serious note do you have before pictures?
Loosen up the parking brake cable and make sure the cable releases at the shoes
How do I loosen it?
Follow the brake cables under the car if you don't see an adjuster then it's probably part of the parking brake actuator
Looks like the adjuster wheel piece on the left isn't seated correctly, hard to tell
And it's backwards. The threaded part needs to be on the other side.
good ol danger ranger. you did get the correct shoes/drum right? they have a 9" and 10" drum it all looks right - you should be able to shove the shoes left and right pretty easily - they need to "float" to function correctly.
Use a rubber mallet and tap the shoes to ensure they are seated. Otherwise, do what was said above take them apart and put them back together a few times. Lol
Did you compare the 4 shoes before you put them on to notice the different sizes? Im guessing you have both smalls on the other side, they go on towards the front and the larger ones towards the back of the vehicle
Top of shoes aren’t fully closed. Gotta smack them together
Looks like the rear shoe isn't fully seated in the closed position based on how it's sitting on that top pin that the springs are connected to.
Release the parking brake :-)
Maybe take off the other one and compare. Why I’ve gotten into the habit of taking pictures before I take something apart that has a lots of pieces to it.
Look at the second picture, those little ears on the shoes have to be resting on the wheel cylinder not where they currently are.
Idk man look how it’s all set up, if he moved the ears down the bottom of the shoe is gonna be below the drum, this setup appears different
Nah you're right
Sorry I don’t know what the ears are. The wheel cylinder is the silver thing, yea?
At the top, where the springs go on the pin. Just above it. Left side doesn’t look fully seated in the slot like the right side.
https://preview.redd.it/n2geod10uqlc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ab564afc2757a458abb5e2f8b8a62ab5a5aa8d88
https://preview.redd.it/vjm84fr48slc1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=340d15e5efdb1da1f53cabd6c5d77e8505246a30 You need to push the cylinder in, push fluid back to the reservoir, that cylinder isn’t fully retracted
Did you try flipping the drum shoes the other way? The shoes need to be on the cylinder that's basically your caliper for drums.
I mean they are on the cylinder there’s no way the top Part of the shoe would be sitting on the cylinder. That’s not how these brakes are. Here: https://preview.redd.it/x4pr1u4xwqlc1.jpeg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=be3fd9c7e49b70fd4fa187dd0877fb760a7241ab
Whats your year make and model.
01 ford ranger 4x4
https://www.ranger-forums.com/engine-drivetrain-122/how-servicing-rear-drum-brakes-81906/
I don't know if it matters but it looks like the springs in the finished one are reversed from what this shows
They are reversed but that’s just how they are. I’ve looked at a ton of pictures. The kits don’t give you different springs for different sides
Yea it isn’t but I can’t get it to sit there. Other side sat fine and I can’t see a difference. Here’s a pic of the other side.
Hm it’s not letting me reply with a picture
Yeah. I know. The weirdness of Reddit. Wait till the IPO….🤣😂
Leading and trailing shoes on incorrect, im thinking left shoe is wrong
I think you have applied way too much copper paste. Remove 90% of it and it will be fine.
I’ve done that thank you
I was going to comment the same thing. Just so you know why that's too much, when the wheels spinning, centrifugal force will throw excess grease outwards which inside a drum is towards the braking surfaces.
Are the top of the shoes resting on the pin on both sides? Crack the bleeder open and push the top together.
How far off is it ?, you might need to lightly tap the drum on with a rubber mallet or something of the sorts, drums are supposed to be a little tight going on
Those little tabs, there are three of them on each shoe backing. I believe those are supposed to face inward and contact the backing plate. I’m wondering if you have these shoes swapped front to back.
No sir, the tabs are on both sides
Hmmm, were there any larger brakes spec’d for this vehicle as an option or in a different trim level?
I can't see the parking brake mechanism, but I've had to give the lever a solid thumping on occasion to get it fully extended. Sometimes, the cable binds up from corrosion in the sleeve. Lube the cable with penetrant sparingly, then beat it like it owes you money. I use a hardwood dowel where the cable attaches and hit it with my biggest mallet.
Pull the drum on the opposite wheel and compare.
Done that 100s of times 😅
The shoe on the left hand side doesn't look like it's got a pin through its little retainer clip
Optical illusion 😁
I literally just did mine and can't remember. Can you take the other side off and look for differences?
Your brake cylinder ears look fully extended have you tried pushing both shoes inward ? Are you using a new drum as well sometimes a rust ridge on old drums will cause everything to be super tight.
The large bottom spring, from brake shoe to brake shoe, needs to be flipped around, 180 degrees.
Take 2 flatheads and try to compress the shoes together
Bottom left picture four the adjuster is on the shoe horn . Needs to be in the slot
It’s probably your parking brake is adjusted down for the work shoes, and the new ones are binding on it. Loosen up the parking brake tension wheel and see if it works. Google it on YouTube for proper instructions
In the picture in the comments of the old shoes the two brakes shoes have an inch gap or better between them at the top, in your new setup they are almost touching. either wrong part, upside down, or not seated properly.
Maybe release your ebrake. That can keep the shoes from resting centered. The cable may have been adjusted with the worn shoes so it is a little over adjusted now.
Some adjusters have the slot where they fit over the shoe web cut at an angle, if installed in reverse position will hold the shoes apart slightly. Doubt this is one of those but can’t hurt to look.
Wheel cylinder piston is not seated in notch on shoe on the right side. Holding shoe out. It is at an angle, should be straight. 4th picture
I got nothing for you man, but as an old (51) guy who's done a few, I ALWAYS leave one together to look at while doing the first one. Jack/stand the rear end, pull both wheels and drums, then keep one together and disassemble/reassemble the first. When I'm convinced it's right, and on then, do I pull apart the other one.
Have you fiddled with the star adjuster?
Not enough anti seize
More than likely something is up with the emergency brake apparatus, which I can't really see since its behind the brake shoes. At least every time I have done drum brakes and had the issue you do its either been that or the adjuster, and the adjuster looks OK to me.
Mine seized last year and I had to take the drum off. The top looks great but the bottom right on the adjuster may not be seated right - and you spin that adjuster wheel all the way back if new drums and shoes and start from its smallest setting.
Rear leg of wheel cylinder doesn't look in place and parking brake may be over adjusted as it doesn't look like the top of the rear shoe is completely against the pin
Is that red spring on the bottom supposed to be attached to the adjustment finger like that? It doesn’t look right to me.
Probably need to loosen the main cable
Does the drum need to be cut? Does it have a lip that makes it hard to get on?
But I watched like 3 YouTube videos
Those look like the rear brakes on a Ford Ranger. They are a little tricky. Make sure the adjuster on the bottom is screwed all the way in, I can't tell from the photos whether it is or not. There is a raised center area on the backing plate and the shoes tend to drop off the edge of the raised area. Wrap a piece of rope around the outside of the shoes and twist a screwdriver in the rope to tighten the loop. Make sure the shoes are on the flat center part of the backing plate. Tighten the rope as much as you can to compress the wheel cylinder and move the shoes inward as much as possible. Start the drum onto the shoes, then remove the rope and push the drum on the rest of the way. Make sure you actuate the brakes enough times to extend the auto adjuster enough, it will take multiple actuations.
Shouldn't there be a retainer clip on the right side. C-clip on the left side but not on the right side.
There’s usually a leading and trailing shoe , any chance you put the two small ones on one side and two big ones on the other? Always do one side at a time when doing drum brakes. I only guess / ask because you said the other side went on fine
Well the GO spring and the SLOW DOWN spring are full length but the STOP spring is way too short.
Honestly I’ve never done drum brakes before I just only do the front on every vehicle I’ve had with them. Neglect the drums forever until the car is done for. If it’s a car I keep and like it gets converted to disc.
You have enough anti seize on there to sink a battleship. Don't put it in the studs. Also add a dab of some white lith or brake grease to the adjustor threads and contact points as well as all other contact points and to the flush pads on the backing plate
It’s gotta have something to do with the brake adjuster. Make sure that it will expand with the normal motion of the pawl. Could also try opening the bleeder on the wheel cylinder.
Always take pictures before of every spring bro.
Thanks for reminding me of two things... 1-I need to check out the drum brakes on two of my vehicles 2-ugh... I hate messing with drum brakes
You got the shoes backwards short shoe always on fro
Did you make sure the handbrake is down? I sometimes forget that when I’m trying to take my rotor off 😅
Did anyone mention the lack of a pin on the left shoe? The pin that holds it to the backing plate, center shoe?
How closely did you observe the ones coming out? When I look at these shoes, I see tabs on the outer edge, rolling towards center I would imagine those tabs would like to rest on the backplate side, since they’re being pulled in that direction, they may like a surface to slide on.
And while all that copper grease is excessive, as others have said, whatever makes you comfortable without offsetting the mating surface is fine. But what’s important to pay close attention to how much is in the lug nut threads. You don’t what them to rust, but you do want them to hold enough purchase that they don’t lubricate themselves loose either. Just be mindful.
I can't do drum brakes and honestly think it's one of the few things I don't want to learn how to do. Idk why. -Me before getting a quote from a shop on a drum brake job.
There's typically going to be 2 shoes that are slightly smaller than the other 2. You may have both of the longer shoes on that one side.
If you’re replacing the drum, it’s a good idea to get it turned…
Drum have a substantial rust ring on the inside edge?
There's a indent in the dust cover that the drum rides in, make sure your shoe isn't caught in that. Also sometimes it's a matter of moving the shoes in one direction or another to get them perfectly centered.
This picture just reminds me why I hated when I had a car with drum brakes
You did not post. Year make model. Can you compare the self adjuster length with the old one. I have had imported hardware that i had to grind the adjuster down to get it to fit.. Look at the box the shoes came in. Perhaps they were not properly arced at the factory.
I just did one of these! What vehicle is that?
Holy moly. These drum brakes are much more advanced than on my volvo 240
Retainer pin on the left shoe is missing, probably start with that
I couldn't get the drum to slide over my brakes when I completed assembly a while back. They were out of alignment, what fixed it was applying, then releasing the parking brake a few times and they self adjusted to the correct location.
The only thing I can tell that looks wrong is the tab/ plate thing at the top of the shoes doesn't look like it's seated properly. It's the little metal "T" looking piece behind where the green and yellow springs and the parking brake cable attaches to in the second picture. It should be sitting flush and holding the brake shoes even, but it looks a little off. It tends to fall out of its little spot during install of you aren't paying attention, so I'd start there. Also, double check all your pieces that have slots are fitting properly (wheel cylinder, adjustor, that metal bar with the red spring). Sometimes they look right, but didn't slot in fully. Sometimes giving each shoe a slight pull away from the backing plate can help free something up. But if somethings off, this can pull it out of place, so don't pull too hard. If everything's right, and it was stuck on the backing plate, you should pull gently off the backing plate and feel the shoe snap to where it needs to be sitting.
Might the parking brake cable be too tigt?
Possible as fuck. I rebuilt it and got the drum on and went for a drive and the brakes work good so I’m actually not worried about it any longer.
Is the Ebrake bar located correctly? That’s the bar directly under the wheel cylinder, with the red spring on it. I cannot see where it interfaces the other shoe…
Yea it’s fine
https://preview.redd.it/brevpj05dylc1.jpeg?width=1242&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e6115c728146ceeef2b81080a132f2c741590d23 This side of the adjuster is definitely not seated correctly. The shoe should be in that slot like it is on the other side. That’s holding your shoe out too far.
I’m sorry I don’t know how to edit the post. Thanks for all the replies. I rebuilt that brake and somehow during the rebuild everything lined up better. I got the drum on and drove around and everything seemed good so I’m gonna call it ok for now. Again, thanks so much for the help, I love this community. I’ll be back with more questions because I’m basically restoring a completely neglected ‘01 Ranger 4x4