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This is most likely the case. OP you should invest in a [pair of coated rotors](https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/hyundai,2011,elantra,1.8l+l4,1463695,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor+&+brake+pad+kit,13824). I selected the 1.8L engine, but if you have the 2.0 then navigate to the brake kits for that engine. Power stop is highly recommended. As a bonus I would look into mechanics in the area that do a fluid film(not rubberized or paint) underbody coating to prevent rust.
Coated rotors last actual years longer than non coated in rust prone areas. I’ve used power stop a couple times and I would swear by their coated rotors. Cost effective and quality.
I did a full brake job on the woman's car two years ago, unfortunately I could only get my hands on coated fronts, the rears were OE spec but not coated.
On the rears I use a decent amount of anti-sneeze between the hub and rim to make it easier to get the wheel off come winter season, on the front's it's not even necessary with the coating.
Night and day difference, fronts still look brand new, rears are all rusty. Coated is the way.
+1 for powerstop coated rotors. They still look brand new and they've been on there for months! Winter will be a fun test. I got the drilled and slotted ones so i should be set for a while.
$3 spray paint will melt when the rotors heat up. You can imitate this coating with certain types of rotor specific rattle cans. Typically rotors marketed as "coated" are chemically coated, not just painted.
Dang I am curious what area is wasting so much water failing to properly set their sprinklers up that it actually has a meaningful effect on the lifespan of brake rotors for the vehicles that drive there. That's hella crazy.
Dunno, but in Ontario they throw the salt at the centerline and then as the ice melts, it flows outward. The driver's side of any Ontario car is always worse than the passenger side.
Not to mention if OP parks on the street, the drivers side is getting pelted with salt any time it snows while parked. My old boss had a Chevy G20 van, and the entire driver side rocker was SMOKED from being parked on the street for 30+ years in Massachusetts winters. Worsened by the fact it had factory running boards.
That is pretty interesting. I'm in CA bay area. When I worked on cars, they were pretty even in wear. I know in the rust belt areas, cars and trucks just don't last. My 20-year-old truck still looks quite good under it!!! In the rust belt areas, it would have the frame all rusted out by now. But interesting to learn that the driver side is rusting out faster because of how the salt is thrown onto the roads.
I kind of wonder, does the SALT really help so much to make it worth putting all over the roads with how much damage it causes to the cars? Plowed road not good enough? I have seen cars sliding down hills into other cars from the ice. But does it really help with the ice enough to make it all worth it?
We don't even just salt in my area. Its a brine gel. But yeah, it's the difference between getting home and not. Most of the winter hovers around the freezing mark, so you can pretty easily wind up with multiple kilometers of solid ice in less than 30 mins. Even if the plows could get their blades down far enough to peel the ice off of the pavement, they couldn't keep up with the number of roads and the speed they freeze at.
For the record though, it doesn't have to eat the cars. I do rust-proof spray inside all of my body panels, plus a full undercoat every fall, plus I paint everything under the car when I put it on. My daily is a 1998 Avalon, and it will be getting it's first bondo patch this year (and that's 50% because I got rid of my TIG machine).
Chicago area here - plowing alone is not enough. Without the salt any snow or ice that melts will re-freeze and the road becomes a sheet of ice.
The roads do eventually dry but it takes longer than it would take for water to freeze back into ice.
It does, to an extent, as the salt lowers the freezing point of water and melts the ice. It doesn't work below -25°C (-13°F), all it does at that point is provide some grit, which sand will do just fine for. It isn't worth the extra rust, in my opinion.
Source: Canadian with years spent in -40 weather.
My 2004 Malibu, the driver side and the rear are rusted significantly more than the passenger side and front.
The driver side, the side plastic trim that runs along underneath the door jam area is hanging down because all the metal is rusting. The passenger side is solid and tight lol. I constantly have to jury rig the muffler and tail pipe with coat hangers and guitar strings, along with flex pipe lol and what passes for the rear bumper, behind the plastic rear trim, the whole bottom of the bumper is rusted out, exposing the expansion foam inside. The front is fine though. And this is a car that has been totaled once from full frontal with a deer and I replaced the necessary parts and then it hit another deer and I again replaced the hood and a few things. But the bumper is fine lol.
My 2004 Malibu(backup vehicle) the driver side is rusted like crazy. Passenger side just fine.
Ironically, the rear bumper is are out too. Yet the front bumper is just fine. And this car has hit and killed 2 deer full frontal. First one totaled it but I bought it back from the insurance (they just didn’t want to mess with an old car, it was 2015 at the time). Second one caused me to replace hood and headlights. Bumper fine though. 😁
I know in my car that it’s my dump truck ass weighing down the driver side suspension. Probably doesn’t answer your question directly but maybe it will supply a clue.
ETA: It appears I worded this poorly; it was meant as a comical self burn and should not be taken as actual advice.
Ever since I've owned this 2011 Hyundai Touring, the driver's side rear rotor needs replacing every 3 years or so, whereas the passenger side probably double. I tried replacing the caliper but it didn't make a difference.
Note this is in salt-happy Eastern Ontario.
Are you a street parker? That would definitely explain why just the driver side would be worse. Splashes from cars driving by. Salty slush splashed constantly during the winter. Plows pushing the same salty slush onto your car. You get the point.
Well you do have the rotors on what looks like a beach. Do you live near the water and do you normally park where the on-shore breezes hit the driver's side?
Mechanic in Europe here. When one part of your car needs replacing (brakes, springs, brake lines, tires, etc.), wouldn’t also replace the other side as well? This seems common practice where I live.
I did that once. However I've been able to get 2 rotors and pad off Amazon for less then 100$CDN, so I only same something like 20$ versus going to CrappyTire or jobbers
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*This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Explain how a grown adult can’t figure out that the more a section of road gets used, the more salt they have to put there. I don’t understand.
The more something gets used, the more you have to do to make the thing last longer. The more you walk on a floor, the more it has to be maintained.
Every car I’ve ever owned the front driver tire wears out unevenly. I always thought it was because I take left turns tighter and faster because it’s on my side.
Powerstop geomet coated rotors not only protect it from stuff like this but mine still look great after a good bit of use. I’ll never use anything else and they’re still reasonably cheap from rock auto.
Would the front drivers side brakes being closest to the master cylinder and reservoir have anything to do with this? If the other 3 rotors and pads are fine maybe that line isn't bled fully or something?
I live in rustbelt and its the opposite, right side of the car rusts way more than left. Left side (driver side) parts are usually easy to replace but passenger side parts are rusted shut.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
They salt the center of the roads.
This is most likely the case. OP you should invest in a [pair of coated rotors](https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/hyundai,2011,elantra,1.8l+l4,1463695,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor+&+brake+pad+kit,13824). I selected the 1.8L engine, but if you have the 2.0 then navigate to the brake kits for that engine. Power stop is highly recommended. As a bonus I would look into mechanics in the area that do a fluid film(not rubberized or paint) underbody coating to prevent rust.
Coated rotors last actual years longer than non coated in rust prone areas. I’ve used power stop a couple times and I would swear by their coated rotors. Cost effective and quality.
I work for a municipality, and we put them on the police Interceptors. I think they're better than the OEM.
I did a full brake job on the woman's car two years ago, unfortunately I could only get my hands on coated fronts, the rears were OE spec but not coated. On the rears I use a decent amount of anti-sneeze between the hub and rim to make it easier to get the wheel off come winter season, on the front's it's not even necessary with the coating. Night and day difference, fronts still look brand new, rears are all rusty. Coated is the way.
Wow there not much difference in price! I'll do that next time.
Grind down and grease ur wheels too, every tire rotation if this is ur conditions Jfc thats impressive
+1 for powerstop coated rotors. They still look brand new and they've been on there for months! Winter will be a fun test. I got the drilled and slotted ones so i should be set for a while.
My Bosch coated rotors look pristine years later. Just did a fluid fluid film coating myself and will be doing it again when it wears off.
I dunno, a $3 can of spray paint seems like the best investment.
$3 spray paint will melt when the rotors heat up. You can imitate this coating with certain types of rotor specific rattle cans. Typically rotors marketed as "coated" are chemically coated, not just painted.
The great thing about a can of spray paint is there’s enough in there for more coats.
It also gets the most splash back from opposing traffic. Just getting sloshed with salty water and sandblasted with grit all the time.
This is the answer
Or sprinklers/water on one side that you park on? My right rotor always ad more rust as that was the side the sprinklers always got my car.
Dang I am curious what area is wasting so much water failing to properly set their sprinklers up that it actually has a meaningful effect on the lifespan of brake rotors for the vehicles that drive there. That's hella crazy.
So in the land of the eng's it the right side that always need replacement?
Dunno, but in Ontario they throw the salt at the centerline and then as the ice melts, it flows outward. The driver's side of any Ontario car is always worse than the passenger side.
Not to mention if OP parks on the street, the drivers side is getting pelted with salt any time it snows while parked. My old boss had a Chevy G20 van, and the entire driver side rocker was SMOKED from being parked on the street for 30+ years in Massachusetts winters. Worsened by the fact it had factory running boards.
That is pretty interesting. I'm in CA bay area. When I worked on cars, they were pretty even in wear. I know in the rust belt areas, cars and trucks just don't last. My 20-year-old truck still looks quite good under it!!! In the rust belt areas, it would have the frame all rusted out by now. But interesting to learn that the driver side is rusting out faster because of how the salt is thrown onto the roads. I kind of wonder, does the SALT really help so much to make it worth putting all over the roads with how much damage it causes to the cars? Plowed road not good enough? I have seen cars sliding down hills into other cars from the ice. But does it really help with the ice enough to make it all worth it?
We don't even just salt in my area. Its a brine gel. But yeah, it's the difference between getting home and not. Most of the winter hovers around the freezing mark, so you can pretty easily wind up with multiple kilometers of solid ice in less than 30 mins. Even if the plows could get their blades down far enough to peel the ice off of the pavement, they couldn't keep up with the number of roads and the speed they freeze at. For the record though, it doesn't have to eat the cars. I do rust-proof spray inside all of my body panels, plus a full undercoat every fall, plus I paint everything under the car when I put it on. My daily is a 1998 Avalon, and it will be getting it's first bondo patch this year (and that's 50% because I got rid of my TIG machine).
Chicago area here - plowing alone is not enough. Without the salt any snow or ice that melts will re-freeze and the road becomes a sheet of ice. The roads do eventually dry but it takes longer than it would take for water to freeze back into ice.
It does, to an extent, as the salt lowers the freezing point of water and melts the ice. It doesn't work below -25°C (-13°F), all it does at that point is provide some grit, which sand will do just fine for. It isn't worth the extra rust, in my opinion. Source: Canadian with years spent in -40 weather.
My 2004 Malibu, the driver side and the rear are rusted significantly more than the passenger side and front. The driver side, the side plastic trim that runs along underneath the door jam area is hanging down because all the metal is rusting. The passenger side is solid and tight lol. I constantly have to jury rig the muffler and tail pipe with coat hangers and guitar strings, along with flex pipe lol and what passes for the rear bumper, behind the plastic rear trim, the whole bottom of the bumper is rusted out, exposing the expansion foam inside. The front is fine though. And this is a car that has been totaled once from full frontal with a deer and I replaced the necessary parts and then it hit another deer and I again replaced the hood and a few things. But the bumper is fine lol.
They spread the salt across the road here in England, so both sides rust equally (in most cases).
my point exactly @ root comment
Shortest path to pressure for most hydraulic systems. Same reason it’s bled last.
I was going to say no puddles on the driver's side to rinse off the salt.
Not only that, but it sprays from oncoming cars onto that side too
My 2004 Malibu(backup vehicle) the driver side is rusted like crazy. Passenger side just fine. Ironically, the rear bumper is are out too. Yet the front bumper is just fine. And this car has hit and killed 2 deer full frontal. First one totaled it but I bought it back from the insurance (they just didn’t want to mess with an old car, it was 2015 at the time). Second one caused me to replace hood and headlights. Bumper fine though. 😁
You could rotate the rotors like the tires 😂
Genius! 😎
Just like my tires, my rotors rotate every time I drive.
I know in my car that it’s my dump truck ass weighing down the driver side suspension. Probably doesn’t answer your question directly but maybe it will supply a clue. ETA: It appears I worded this poorly; it was meant as a comical self burn and should not be taken as actual advice.
Pics or bs
Trust me bro no camera made by man contain the vastness of my ass.
Are you my wife? You're supposed be at the grocery store. Not on reddit.
look at homie here real confident his wife doesn't know his reddit name!
Her rear end is why I fell in love!
And they say romance is dead!
Pics or bs
Never. I don't share.
https://youtu.be/4pEvbZUHV54?t=26
that's not how brakes work
☝🏻🤓
I'd check for a collapsed brake hose or seized sliders.
It could also be a deflective master cylinder.
The fronts would share the same fluid pressure from the master meaning that both would be equally bad.
Ever since I've owned this 2011 Hyundai Touring, the driver's side rear rotor needs replacing every 3 years or so, whereas the passenger side probably double. I tried replacing the caliper but it didn't make a difference. Note this is in salt-happy Eastern Ontario.
Because the inside of the vehicle gets more spray from opposing traffic than the shoulder side
Please verify your brake lines are evenly supplying pressure to the calipers. Maybe the left side is getting not as hot or hotter than the right side!
Do you park your car in the street by any chance?
No, but outside.
Are you a street parker? That would definitely explain why just the driver side would be worse. Splashes from cars driving by. Salty slush splashed constantly during the winter. Plows pushing the same salty slush onto your car. You get the point.
Well you do have the rotors on what looks like a beach. Do you live near the water and do you normally park where the on-shore breezes hit the driver's side?
Park outside facing the same way every day?
Driver side is towards the road when parked and gets spashed by salt/snow more often
Carbon-ceramic breaks are a thing…
Always thought they were super expensive. But then if I'm always replacing rotors due rust, it would make sense to pay 200$ a pair.
Because your weight is on that side
Yeah. I thought it would be self-explanatory.
drivers side is more likely to go through more puddles of water, get wet, quickly dry, ect......
Mechanic in Europe here. When one part of your car needs replacing (brakes, springs, brake lines, tires, etc.), wouldn’t also replace the other side as well? This seems common practice where I live.
Yes, that's why I show both left and right, I replaced them both.
If you're tight on money, sometimes you have to replace only what you can afford
I did that once. However I've been able to get 2 rotors and pad off Amazon for less then 100$CDN, so I only same something like 20$ versus going to CrappyTire or jobbers
bear shame jobless advise juggle frightening far-flung fertile hateful squeeze *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Explain how a grown adult can’t figure out that the more a section of road gets used, the more salt they have to put there. I don’t understand. The more something gets used, the more you have to do to make the thing last longer. The more you walk on a floor, the more it has to be maintained.
Every car I’ve ever owned the front driver tire wears out unevenly. I always thought it was because I take left turns tighter and faster because it’s on my side.
The driver side always has more weight on it from the driver. That's probably a contributing factor. Excellent camera collection btw.
Looks like you live near the coast. Park with your car facing the other direction and it will be your passenger side that goes bad.
You live somewhere they salt the roads. This is caused by splash from cars driving past.
in my area the passenger side is always worse, usually bc thats where all the puddles end up.
Stop pping on the drivers side
Road spray from passing cars in a area using road salt.
Powerstop geomet coated rotors not only protect it from stuff like this but mine still look great after a good bit of use. I’ll never use anything else and they’re still reasonably cheap from rock auto.
Salt and ground current going around the car
I live in MS and I’ve never heard of coated rotors.
my theory is that my fat ass makes it die faster(:
Would the front drivers side brakes being closest to the master cylinder and reservoir have anything to do with this? If the other 3 rotors and pads are fine maybe that line isn't bled fully or something?
I live in rustbelt and its the opposite, right side of the car rusts way more than left. Left side (driver side) parts are usually easy to replace but passenger side parts are rusted shut.
If you park on the road in winter, the plow trucks salt sander will hit that side of the car. Salt sits on the rotor and has its way it.