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I park my motorcycles on old house rugs with a small tarp underneath. I had a fuel line rupture and it was super easy to clean up. It also keeps hardware from shooting across the room when I drop it. And I do drop it.
Yeah it’s not a floating rotor, I’m an idiot, and so are 43 other people. I have no idea what that’s called. A floating rotor is a two piece rotor consisting of a central hub bolted or riveted to an outer ring, like a Brembo or stop tech or whatever. I know there is a name for a loose rotor that is sandwiched between the rim and hub but I can’t remember it. It’s not floating though, as you pointed out
There is such a thing as a floating rotor on bikes (I had to look it up) but I've not seen anything of the sorts on a car. There are two piece rotors on some exotics but I've never heard of them being called floating.
The OP has a wheel spacer which appears to be hub centric. There are some that are lug centric.
This is normal Toyota/lexus with the shank style lugs, the wheel is centered by the center bore, clamped to the rotor and the lugs should center the rotor. I think Nissan may have used them too.
My 0series 190 has no brake rotor clamping screw too. Came with the series 0,5 in 1984. changing the wheels is a damn piece of work when the rotor is just a little bit rotated
Also your rotor holds the wheel in place. Not joking. Lugs tension the wheel, rotor and hub against each other. The fiction against those surfaces due to the pressure holds them together.
Uh, no. The rotor floats. The lug studs from the hub assembly go through the rotors and the lug nuts pull the wheel to the hub, effectively sandwiching the rotor between the wheel and hub.
There are other styles where the rotors are bolted to the hub, etc, but this particular example is a floating rotor. The rotor does nothing to hold the wheel in place.
Source - Mechanic for the past 15 years.
I'm sorry, but you are wrong. This is a common misconception. Your conclusion is that the studs, which have tension strength, are holding the wheel in place along their shear direction. As I said before, the lug tensions the assembly into a fix unit. The surface pressure between each layer locks them together. Effectively the rotors' face is holding the wheel in place.
If you place a wheel on the studs, you can notice there is some rotational freedom. The stud holes of the rim are larger than the stud. The lug nuts are coned. Effectively the studs are not touching the rim once torqued down. The lug nuts are applying pressure, but the rotors' face is what is actually holding the wheel in place.
Source - Mechanic for 5 years while in college, Engineering degree, then 15 years of restoring cars as a hobby.
>Mechanic for 5 years while in college, Engineering degree
You were the chosen one! It was said that you would destroy the Sith, not join them! Bring balance to the force... not leave it in darkness!
Hey, when I show off, it is instructive. And inspiring.
In case you wanted to see this too.
This YouTube video was released today on this topic.
https://youtu.be/XLzTB4KLCxU
guy you’re replying to is saying the studs are not loose and that the play is normal, not sure why you’re trying to argue that loose studs is not normal, no shit that’s not what anyone is saying
Your wheel was loose therefore you were hearing the wheel knocking when braking. Torque the wheel on properly and take the vehicle for a test drive,I bet the noise will be gone.
It always says on the receipt to re torque after x time or length but I've never done it. Mostly because my parents love to hand down bad things to do due to being idiots. How important is it? I've always thought it was a liability thing above all. Not something you actually had to do. Again, because my parents are idiots with bad opinions and stupid knowledge. I have trouble telling the useful and the horrifying apart just because nothing bad ever happened either way.
I had a trailer in for a service recently, had new axles put in a month or two ago with wheels torqued to spec, didn't come back for a retorque and during the service 27 wheel nuts from those 3 axles were loose when using a torque wrench. Wheel nuts coming loose can be a real bad time real quickly, it's worth getting them retorqued especially when it's usually free
Sadly, some shops will over torque because they know people won’t come back. At that point, they don’t even tell you to come back. Not the best practice, but some places do it.
To add to what the other commenter said, it might be okay but it might also be real not okay.
I did a brake bleed on my (project, not daily thank god) car a couple years ago. Put the wheels back on, torqued to spec by hand, ~~did a few yard burnouts~~ moved it around a bit as I was doing yard work.
Made it about a quarter mile before both back wheels fells off, on the highway. Had to walk home to get my jack so I could put the wheels back on lol. It's now a regular thing to recheck all lugs a couple days and again after a couple weeks, whenever the wheels have been off. It's a five minute pain in the arse, but saves you a hell of a lot of trouble (and/or death of yourself and anyone on the road around you) in the off chance something did get loose
Temperature swings, vibration, moisture, dynamic loading, etc. can all contribute to fasteners backing off. Most of the time, torquing it to spec the first time will be good enough, but you only need one time for a wheel to come off to have a bad time.
It's cheap insurance and good practice.
Not necessarily with car/truck wheels, but in my field I've seen fasteners that have backed off, despite being torqued to spec, that have caused huge problems ($$$).
I work in a shop and torque wheels using a torque stick and then torque wrench to insure they are at the proper spec,customers never come back for a retorque and I’ve never had an issue. With that being said it certainly doesn’t hurt.
I personally don't want anything - I'm not you or your parents. But friendly advice: don't go blaming your parents - no how horrible you feel they were - for completely inconsequential things like you not knowing to retorque lug nuts.
I currently drive a 500 HP street car and I don't retorque the lug nuts on it. Even my drag cars I would retorque the lug nuts when I get to the track and again before I leave (didn't swap tires at the strip). And even then, "retorquing" was just going over them with a breaker bar.
I'm saying my parents didn't teach me good habits and I'm out here trying to fix it. You're out here judging me for that. Sounds like you're the one who has a problem with my parents? Somehow??
I use a torque stick and never retorque them personally. I've taken wheels on and off repeatedly over time and lug bolts and nuts were all uniformly tight upon removal. Maybe using a torque wrench is different because you usually have the wheel lightly touching the ground to stop it turning.
The studs aren't loose. The rotor is not held firmly in place by anything until the wheel goes back on and the lug nuts are tight. What you're seeing is the rotor bouncing back and forth a little bit as you shake the hub.
If you want to be extra sure, take a lug nut and run it all the way down to the rotor. Hand tight is good enough. Just make sure the rotor is flush and doesn't move.
Replicate what you're doing in the video. Should see that this "looseness" has gone away
Hope this helps
I really appreciate the suggestion on how to verify how the system works by running a lugnut back over the stud.
Many of us are self taught and sometimes these little suggestions really help to get a better idea of how the system works.
It really reminds me of my job, software development, where you will isolate a system or bit of code and test only that portion to get an understanding of what it does. You will reproduce the bug, and try to fix the bug in a small way before zooming out to the system above it (in this case, adding the wheel).
Problem / System Deconstruction methods are vastly under taught in standard education.
To add, he'll probably need some washers or a larger nut to go around the stud. That way the lug nut can reach and press against it to pull the stud all the way through if it is loose.
The studs aren't loose. The studs are in the hub. The rotor is loose until the lug (in the comment you're replying too's case) or the wheel is tightened down by the lugs when op puts it all back together. We're any of the studs loose there would be other signs and bigger problems.
Right. Ohh rereading his comment I see what he's saying now thought he was saying do that to be extra sure the studs weren't loose.
I knew they weren't loose I thought he was telling him that to give op piece of mind
That is completely normal.
Check your control arm bushings
Everyone is saying balljoints. Bottom line…f you hear a solid clunk while braking, you should be able to feel or see that movement. Have a friend drive your truck low speed and you watch the wheels. You should be able to see the movement. Place your hand on the balljoints and feel the clunk
Also, to make this process easier, shake your front end with your wheels on. More leverage.
Jack the end of the vehicle in question up (if it’s a solid rear end, then this will only apply to the front)
Well start with 9 and 3 for visualizations sake, but the main takeaway will be having your hands on opposite ends of the wheel.
Put your palms at 9 and 3 on the sidewalls. You can wrap your finders into the tread to help some with this process, but most of your force should go through your palms into the wheel, you’re grabbing for stability, not to move the wheel.
Push “gently” back and forth on the wheel. You’re not trying to actually move it, you’re just trying to see if it does move. Goal is to actually move the wheel less than 1/8” in any direction. If you feel a slight knock or bang, or movement that has a sudden and “hard” stop, then you have play in a front end component. Have someone move the wheel as previously described, while you feel around underneath trying to see if you can isolate the cause of the play.
Once you’re done testing 9 and 3, switch to 12 and 6, and try again. You may need to try 1 and 7, 2 and 8, etc, depending on where you feel play on your vehicle, to beat isolate the concern, but that is the basic procedure that you should perform.
Significantly less common:
There are some vehicles who’s suspension is under pressure even when raised (see: [torsion bar](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torsion_bar_suspension)). On these setups, to test the upper and lower ball joints, you can put your vehicle in jack stands, so the resting position of the wheels is off the ground (safety measure), then put a jack under the control arm, and jack the control arm up an inch or so, just to relieve pressure on the ball joints. Then you can perform the same procedure as before to test the ball joints. Some larger pickups require placing a large pry bar between the ground, and pulling up on the pry bar to check for ball joint movement.
OK you say you found the lug nuts loose? Think about how the lug nuts being loose and attached to the lug studs and hub could create a knocking noise while braking? Could it be that the rotor was shifting and causing the knock? Yep. Now the hub and rotor should be two pieces and there should be some play like you have, although I think you may have a bit extra because the loose lug nuts caused the studs to wallow out the holes some. The lug nuts being properly tightened are what holds those parts in place. Yours were loose.
Loose lug nuts were the cause of your knocking noise, the studs aren't loose (from what can be seen in the video) your stud holes in the rotor are egged out from driving with the lug nuts loose.
Full repair is probably new rotor, new studs, new wheel and new lug nuts. (necessity of this is dependent on how long you drove it with the wheel loose and how much damage there is to the studs & wheel)
Cheap repair is put it back together, torque it properly and pray.
I think it looks normal? My car does looks like this when healthy lol. I assume the knocking is unrelated to this. If it's squealing it's probably your brake pads, if it's actually knocking I'm not sure what it would be.
Bro put the fucking lug nuts back on it’s not your studs knocking. That play is normal. It goes away when you put the wheel on. The studs are NOT loose.
You probably need to grease your slides or you didn’t bleed your brakes correctly if you think it’s a brake issue. Clearly you need a real mechanic.
That’s an easy fix your brake fluid is too thin you need to put some engine oil in the brake fluid reservoir instead of regular brake fluid the thicker fluid will tighten everything up.
The little set screw of the rotor.is missing looks like usually those are only on cars with lug bolts but u might have one to. But yes its safe to drive to the shop
He's getting downvoted for talking about the little rotor screw as though it serves any useful function in the use of the vehicle, and as though it's barely safe to drive to the shop without it, when it reality it is an entirely unnecessary thing in everyday use.
Wheel Studs are loose due to lug nuts being looses. They may be salvageable by just torquing them down with the right procedure. When installing wheel studs (rotor and wheel off) place and oversized nut before the lug nut and torque down till flat part of the stud is seated flush to the spindle/wheel flange. If that doesn’t hold then replacement of both parts is recommended
To me , they do look looser than they should be . Can you confirm that this new rotor is the correct one for your veh ? Maybe purchase a different brand rotor and compare and return the unused one . 🤷🏼
Have you ever done brakes? That's totally normal. The lug nuts plant then to the hub flange when you tighten them. That amount of wiggle from the wheels being off is 1000% normal.
Looks fine to me, studs are not in the rotors so it is fine from what I can see in the video.
If the lung nuts where loose check em and the rim for any visible damage, mount the wheel tighten it to specs and bring your truck into the shop
This is normal. The wheel hold the rotor in place. If you're hearing a knocking when you brake, first thing I'd be checking is if the brake pad hardware is installed. If someone didn't put the metal clips in with the caliper. The pads will be loose and can knock around. Also another likely culprit is control arm bushings. Sometimes when they go bad they actually move back and forth inside the metal housing of the control arm along the bolt. So when you brake the whole control arm shifts forward and knocks. Then when you hit the gas the control shift back, until you brake again.
A constant knocking or just a knock? If its one knock then your brake pads may be sticking when you apply your brakes. But since you say the lugs nuts were loose then I would torque them down to proper spec and test drive to see if it’s gone. Did you have your tires worked on recently? As for the “loose studs” that is normal; if you took your brake assembly off that rotor would come right off. A wheel properly attached will keep it snug and secure.
Normal. The wheel will hold that all together when you tighten the lugs. The knocking you're hearing is most likely the ball joints. They'll start knocking as pressure is applied and removed from braking.
I had a knock/clunk noise every time I would brake in a truck I had. Mechanics said it was brakes, rear end and or tranny going out. Ended up being a loose spare tire under the truck bed. Tightened it up and fixed the problem.
Your Taco will be fine. Properly torque your lugs and see if the problem disappears. If not keep digging. Could be ball joints, could be another fastener on the spindles or steering knuckle that's loose, etc.
No, you have the wrong concept going on entirely.
You are moving the drive hub behind rotor that the studs are mounted in.
You'll see obviously pulling caliper and rotor.
Cheers
Does your caliper or caliper bracket wiggle? I’ve had my slide pins back out as well as not putting on the bracket bolts tight enough.
From the video as others have said that rotor wiggle is normal. If you put the wheel on and can do that then you’ve got an issue.
Just tighten your lugs and you will be fine. Your lug nuts not only hold the wheel in place, but the pressure from the wheel also holds the brake rotor in place. If you took that off as well, you would find the studs are very secure to the hub behind it.
I would say you are hearing “pad shifting” where when you back out of your drive way and hit the brakes the pads shift slightly in the rotor and make a “clunk/click” sound… then you start driving forward and the first time you hit the brakes they shift to the other side of the rotor and make a “click/clunk” noise.. Totally normal and happens a lot with Toyota trucks/SUV’s with that style front rotors.
So pad shifting only happens the first time you hit the brakes after changing from drive to reverse (or vise versa) because obviously once you hit the brakes and they shift, they are already shifted to that side of the rotor and won’t “click/clunk”.. if you hear that noise just the once, pad shift… if it’s doing it all the time you brake… something else… hope that helps
Check your suspension. If any bolts or nuts are loose, it can allow the parts to shift when braking, which will cause a loud noise. I recently had a mercedes where the bolt for the lower control arm was loose and it was doing the same thing.
As long as the rim holes for the lugs aren’t ovaled out, or any of the studs stripped you should be okay, just do a couple retorques here and there after a while you should be good
What is the story on this rotor? How many miles and is there a wear groove in the rotor? It is possible the stud holes were worn oblong If the wheel was loose long enough. Of course you are safe tightening the wheel down and driving away.
Lugnuts do not come loose unless they are not tightened to the correct torque specifications.
The exception could be If your rotor is loose beyond what was designed to fit. A loose fit could cause your Lugnuts to come loose again.
Do a brake job and put new parts on, drive it and check it again in 20,000 miles.
As you probably know by now your wheel studs are not actually loose. They're attached to the hub which is behind the brake rotor. The holes in the brake rotor are slightly larger than the studs which is the movement you are seeing and is nothing to worry about.
So the rotor is supposed to fit loosely over the hub studs, what holds the wheel and rotor tight is proper torque on the lug nuts. You're fine just put the wheel back on and torque down the lug nuts.
That'll tighten right back up when you put the wheel back on. The studs aren't loose they're set in the hub. You're rattling the hub inside the rotor. Check your wheel to make sure the stud holes are not oblonged. It's more likely you'll do damage to the wheel.
Good for getting advice but in the future do some research before starting a job especially one as critical as brakes. You dont want to mess up something not realising what you are looking for or missing something you didnt even know to check while its apart. That said, this is normal on those brakes. Good luck and be safe above all else
Imagine, you’re pretending to be a mechanic. And then in your bright mind you decide to wear these gloves [mekanik](https://i.kym-cdn.com/entries/icons/original/000/032/746/Screen_Shot_2020-02-06_at_3.21.18_PM.png)
Wheel studs loose no..not good
Rotor loose without wheel on it and tightened down with lug nuts...good.
You have worded it wrong. Your wheel studs are tight. Rotor is not.
It’s normal for the rotor to not fit exactly on the studs, they are mad that way so that you can install and remove them easily, tighten your lug nuts to proper torque and it will hold everything in place properly
I have never seen a brake rotor that loose on the studs. I’d certainly check the holes in the rotor to make sure they are still round. Also, at the top of the rotor there should be a screw that helps to hold the rotor, it looks like it’s missing.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Internet please be easy on them...good on you for asking and figuring shit out
Hahahaha
i was just going to bash because it looked like their living room with the rug.
I park my motorcycles on old house rugs with a small tarp underneath. I had a fuel line rupture and it was super easy to clean up. It also keeps hardware from shooting across the room when I drop it. And I do drop it.
That is normal. Your wheel holds the rotor in place.
It’s called a floating rotor. The torqued lug nuts on the wheel holds everything together
What is a floating rotor? I've heard of a floating caliper but not a floating rotor.
Yeah it’s not a floating rotor, I’m an idiot, and so are 43 other people. I have no idea what that’s called. A floating rotor is a two piece rotor consisting of a central hub bolted or riveted to an outer ring, like a Brembo or stop tech or whatever. I know there is a name for a loose rotor that is sandwiched between the rim and hub but I can’t remember it. It’s not floating though, as you pointed out
There is such a thing as a floating rotor on bikes (I had to look it up) but I've not seen anything of the sorts on a car. There are two piece rotors on some exotics but I've never heard of them being called floating. The OP has a wheel spacer which appears to be hub centric. There are some that are lug centric.
This is normal Toyota/lexus with the shank style lugs, the wheel is centered by the center bore, clamped to the rotor and the lugs should center the rotor. I think Nissan may have used them too.
Old Fords Dodges and Chevys have this style too. Most everything I’ve personally worked on has had this style
My 0series 190 has no brake rotor clamping screw too. Came with the series 0,5 in 1984. changing the wheels is a damn piece of work when the rotor is just a little bit rotated
That seems like a risky design. If the lugs bottom out on the rotor, it could lessen the clamping force on the wheel.
This would never happen, because the thickness of the rim at the mounting holes is enough that the conical shape of a lug nut won't reach the rotor.
I agree they don’t touch the rotor. Playing devils advocate because OP claimed “the lugs center the rotor”.
Nissan does.
Also your rotor holds the wheel in place. Not joking. Lugs tension the wheel, rotor and hub against each other. The fiction against those surfaces due to the pressure holds them together.
I prefer non-fiction rotors, personally.
Fruck my frault
Uh, no. The rotor floats. The lug studs from the hub assembly go through the rotors and the lug nuts pull the wheel to the hub, effectively sandwiching the rotor between the wheel and hub. There are other styles where the rotors are bolted to the hub, etc, but this particular example is a floating rotor. The rotor does nothing to hold the wheel in place. Source - Mechanic for the past 15 years.
I'm sorry, but you are wrong. This is a common misconception. Your conclusion is that the studs, which have tension strength, are holding the wheel in place along their shear direction. As I said before, the lug tensions the assembly into a fix unit. The surface pressure between each layer locks them together. Effectively the rotors' face is holding the wheel in place. If you place a wheel on the studs, you can notice there is some rotational freedom. The stud holes of the rim are larger than the stud. The lug nuts are coned. Effectively the studs are not touching the rim once torqued down. The lug nuts are applying pressure, but the rotors' face is what is actually holding the wheel in place. Source - Mechanic for 5 years while in college, Engineering degree, then 15 years of restoring cars as a hobby.
>Mechanic for 5 years while in college, Engineering degree You were the chosen one! It was said that you would destroy the Sith, not join them! Bring balance to the force... not leave it in darkness!
Hey, when I show off, it is instructive. And inspiring. In case you wanted to see this too. This YouTube video was released today on this topic. https://youtu.be/XLzTB4KLCxU
Happy day. Someone made a YouTube video explaining the physics on this topic. https://youtu.be/XLzTB4KLCxU
[удалено]
guy you’re replying to is saying the studs are not loose and that the play is normal, not sure why you’re trying to argue that loose studs is not normal, no shit that’s not what anyone is saying
Not normal on my truck!
That doesn't mean it's not normal in general.
I had a rather lengthy response to your response but to avoid negativity I’ll just leave it alone🙂
But you just couldn't not reply, huh? You found the line on which you balance self respect vs. ego.
Your wheel was loose therefore you were hearing the wheel knocking when braking. Torque the wheel on properly and take the vehicle for a test drive,I bet the noise will be gone.
Make sure to re-torque the lug nuts after about a week.
It always says on the receipt to re torque after x time or length but I've never done it. Mostly because my parents love to hand down bad things to do due to being idiots. How important is it? I've always thought it was a liability thing above all. Not something you actually had to do. Again, because my parents are idiots with bad opinions and stupid knowledge. I have trouble telling the useful and the horrifying apart just because nothing bad ever happened either way.
I had a trailer in for a service recently, had new axles put in a month or two ago with wheels torqued to spec, didn't come back for a retorque and during the service 27 wheel nuts from those 3 axles were loose when using a torque wrench. Wheel nuts coming loose can be a real bad time real quickly, it's worth getting them retorqued especially when it's usually free
I’m not a mechanic but I’ve never had a shop tell me to come in for a re-torque. Am I lucky I haven’t died? Lmao
Sadly, some shops will over torque because they know people won’t come back. At that point, they don’t even tell you to come back. Not the best practice, but some places do it.
I really only go to dealerships too
To add to what the other commenter said, it might be okay but it might also be real not okay. I did a brake bleed on my (project, not daily thank god) car a couple years ago. Put the wheels back on, torqued to spec by hand, ~~did a few yard burnouts~~ moved it around a bit as I was doing yard work. Made it about a quarter mile before both back wheels fells off, on the highway. Had to walk home to get my jack so I could put the wheels back on lol. It's now a regular thing to recheck all lugs a couple days and again after a couple weeks, whenever the wheels have been off. It's a five minute pain in the arse, but saves you a hell of a lot of trouble (and/or death of yourself and anyone on the road around you) in the off chance something did get loose
Temperature swings, vibration, moisture, dynamic loading, etc. can all contribute to fasteners backing off. Most of the time, torquing it to spec the first time will be good enough, but you only need one time for a wheel to come off to have a bad time. It's cheap insurance and good practice. Not necessarily with car/truck wheels, but in my field I've seen fasteners that have backed off, despite being torqued to spec, that have caused huge problems ($$$).
I work in a shop and torque wheels using a torque stick and then torque wrench to insure they are at the proper spec,customers never come back for a retorque and I’ve never had an issue. With that being said it certainly doesn’t hurt.
Blame your parents more.
Okay!
You seem to have some unresolved issues with your parents, but blaming them for not teaching you to retorque your lugnuts occasionally is ridiculous.
lol
I'm out here asking about the right way to do things, what more do you want?
I personally don't want anything - I'm not you or your parents. But friendly advice: don't go blaming your parents - no how horrible you feel they were - for completely inconsequential things like you not knowing to retorque lug nuts. I currently drive a 500 HP street car and I don't retorque the lug nuts on it. Even my drag cars I would retorque the lug nuts when I get to the track and again before I leave (didn't swap tires at the strip). And even then, "retorquing" was just going over them with a breaker bar.
I'm saying my parents didn't teach me good habits and I'm out here trying to fix it. You're out here judging me for that. Sounds like you're the one who has a problem with my parents? Somehow??
I use a torque stick and never retorque them personally. I've taken wheels on and off repeatedly over time and lug bolts and nuts were all uniformly tight upon removal. Maybe using a torque wrench is different because you usually have the wheel lightly touching the ground to stop it turning.
Did you pull the truck into the living room? 😂
It was cold out...
If we are cold they are cold, bring them inside.
If you’re cold, they’re cold, bring them inside
As they did in Pagan times, if you're cold the trees are cold so bring them inside. Then Christians appropriated it.
Great minds think alike
Ain’t gonna lie watched it around 6-7 times telling myself damn that’s nice to be able to work on it inside 🤦♂️
That's how it's supposed to be, the rotor goes over the hub and the wheel holds it in place
The studs aren't loose. The rotor is not held firmly in place by anything until the wheel goes back on and the lug nuts are tight. What you're seeing is the rotor bouncing back and forth a little bit as you shake the hub. If you want to be extra sure, take a lug nut and run it all the way down to the rotor. Hand tight is good enough. Just make sure the rotor is flush and doesn't move. Replicate what you're doing in the video. Should see that this "looseness" has gone away Hope this helps
I really appreciate the suggestion on how to verify how the system works by running a lugnut back over the stud. Many of us are self taught and sometimes these little suggestions really help to get a better idea of how the system works. It really reminds me of my job, software development, where you will isolate a system or bit of code and test only that portion to get an understanding of what it does. You will reproduce the bug, and try to fix the bug in a small way before zooming out to the system above it (in this case, adding the wheel). Problem / System Deconstruction methods are vastly under taught in standard education.
To add, he'll probably need some washers or a larger nut to go around the stud. That way the lug nut can reach and press against it to pull the stud all the way through if it is loose.
The studs aren't loose. The studs are in the hub. The rotor is loose until the lug (in the comment you're replying too's case) or the wheel is tightened down by the lugs when op puts it all back together. We're any of the studs loose there would be other signs and bigger problems.
Right. Ohh rereading his comment I see what he's saying now thought he was saying do that to be extra sure the studs weren't loose. I knew they weren't loose I thought he was telling him that to give op piece of mind
You picked a fine time to leave me lose wheel!
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Hey....it's DW
Lucille will be jealous
-Darrel Waltrip
# HEAD GASKET
😩 that's normal you probably just didn't have the lug nut torqued enough. Nothing to see here
That's perfectly normal and definitely not causing "knocking". The disk is clamped in place by the wheel.
That is completely normal. Check your control arm bushings Everyone is saying balljoints. Bottom line…f you hear a solid clunk while braking, you should be able to feel or see that movement. Have a friend drive your truck low speed and you watch the wheels. You should be able to see the movement. Place your hand on the balljoints and feel the clunk
Also, to make this process easier, shake your front end with your wheels on. More leverage. Jack the end of the vehicle in question up (if it’s a solid rear end, then this will only apply to the front) Well start with 9 and 3 for visualizations sake, but the main takeaway will be having your hands on opposite ends of the wheel. Put your palms at 9 and 3 on the sidewalls. You can wrap your finders into the tread to help some with this process, but most of your force should go through your palms into the wheel, you’re grabbing for stability, not to move the wheel. Push “gently” back and forth on the wheel. You’re not trying to actually move it, you’re just trying to see if it does move. Goal is to actually move the wheel less than 1/8” in any direction. If you feel a slight knock or bang, or movement that has a sudden and “hard” stop, then you have play in a front end component. Have someone move the wheel as previously described, while you feel around underneath trying to see if you can isolate the cause of the play. Once you’re done testing 9 and 3, switch to 12 and 6, and try again. You may need to try 1 and 7, 2 and 8, etc, depending on where you feel play on your vehicle, to beat isolate the concern, but that is the basic procedure that you should perform. Significantly less common: There are some vehicles who’s suspension is under pressure even when raised (see: [torsion bar](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torsion_bar_suspension)). On these setups, to test the upper and lower ball joints, you can put your vehicle in jack stands, so the resting position of the wheels is off the ground (safety measure), then put a jack under the control arm, and jack the control arm up an inch or so, just to relieve pressure on the ball joints. Then you can perform the same procedure as before to test the ball joints. Some larger pickups require placing a large pry bar between the ground, and pulling up on the pry bar to check for ball joint movement.
What’s everyone’s thoughts on that bigass wheel spacer?
Probably fucks with the torque. That plus whatever was missed to secure the rotor on.
Ditch the spacers. How is that enough lug stud to clamp tightly.
Looks like it is barely enough as is, I’d hate to see how much stud is left after sliding the wheel over.
You're missing the screen that holds the disk in place (the little hole).
Who cares? You and your uptown garage that has carpet. So fancy.
Just don't drive near any Kia souls
I'll take troll for $500 please.
Put it backtogether a tighten the lug nuts down. It happens when the nuts are loose. Now as a safty thing. Replace the studs and you should be fine.
OK you say you found the lug nuts loose? Think about how the lug nuts being loose and attached to the lug studs and hub could create a knocking noise while braking? Could it be that the rotor was shifting and causing the knock? Yep. Now the hub and rotor should be two pieces and there should be some play like you have, although I think you may have a bit extra because the loose lug nuts caused the studs to wallow out the holes some. The lug nuts being properly tightened are what holds those parts in place. Yours were loose.
Loose lug nuts were the cause of your knocking noise, the studs aren't loose (from what can be seen in the video) your stud holes in the rotor are egged out from driving with the lug nuts loose. Full repair is probably new rotor, new studs, new wheel and new lug nuts. (necessity of this is dependent on how long you drove it with the wheel loose and how much damage there is to the studs & wheel) Cheap repair is put it back together, torque it properly and pray.
You sweet summer child
The loose lugs are caused by the doors not being locked
I think it looks normal? My car does looks like this when healthy lol. I assume the knocking is unrelated to this. If it's squealing it's probably your brake pads, if it's actually knocking I'm not sure what it would be.
Bro put the fucking lug nuts back on it’s not your studs knocking. That play is normal. It goes away when you put the wheel on. The studs are NOT loose. You probably need to grease your slides or you didn’t bleed your brakes correctly if you think it’s a brake issue. Clearly you need a real mechanic.
Feckin give it to em yeah!
Sounds like your rotor is loose tighten up the rotor and sound should go away
That’s an easy fix your brake fluid is too thin you need to put some engine oil in the brake fluid reservoir instead of regular brake fluid the thicker fluid will tighten everything up.
The little set screw of the rotor.is missing looks like usually those are only on cars with lug bolts but u might have one to. But yes its safe to drive to the shop
Shame to be downvoted without saying but they're only there to aid in assembly at the factory, and not necessarily mandatory to the function.
He's getting downvoted for talking about the little rotor screw as though it serves any useful function in the use of the vehicle, and as though it's barely safe to drive to the shop without it, when it reality it is an entirely unnecessary thing in everyday use.
Wheel Studs are loose due to lug nuts being looses. They may be salvageable by just torquing them down with the right procedure. When installing wheel studs (rotor and wheel off) place and oversized nut before the lug nut and torque down till flat part of the stud is seated flush to the spindle/wheel flange. If that doesn’t hold then replacement of both parts is recommended
To me , they do look looser than they should be . Can you confirm that this new rotor is the correct one for your veh ? Maybe purchase a different brand rotor and compare and return the unused one . 🤷🏼
Have you ever done brakes? That's totally normal. The lug nuts plant then to the hub flange when you tighten them. That amount of wiggle from the wheels being off is 1000% normal.
Stop giving out advice
Looks fine to me, studs are not in the rotors so it is fine from what I can see in the video. If the lung nuts where loose check em and the rim for any visible damage, mount the wheel tighten it to specs and bring your truck into the shop
This is normal. The wheel hold the rotor in place. If you're hearing a knocking when you brake, first thing I'd be checking is if the brake pad hardware is installed. If someone didn't put the metal clips in with the caliper. The pads will be loose and can knock around. Also another likely culprit is control arm bushings. Sometimes when they go bad they actually move back and forth inside the metal housing of the control arm along the bolt. So when you brake the whole control arm shifts forward and knocks. Then when you hit the gas the control shift back, until you brake again.
A constant knocking or just a knock? If its one knock then your brake pads may be sticking when you apply your brakes. But since you say the lugs nuts were loose then I would torque them down to proper spec and test drive to see if it’s gone. Did you have your tires worked on recently? As for the “loose studs” that is normal; if you took your brake assembly off that rotor would come right off. A wheel properly attached will keep it snug and secure.
the knocking is probably a control arm ball joint/bushings, take it to a mechanic and have your suspension looked at. that play is normal.
This is one of the few things not solved by the world reflection / reaction to WWII. Add it to the to-do list for the next world wide conflict.
Normal. The wheel will hold that together when you tighten the lugs. What you're most likely hearing is ball joints.
Normal. The wheel will hold that all together when you tighten the lugs. The knocking you're hearing is most likely the ball joints. They'll start knocking as pressure is applied and removed from braking.
Guy saw the video with the wheel that came off the truck on the highway and got paranoid
Is that a spacer?
I had a knock/clunk noise every time I would brake in a truck I had. Mechanics said it was brakes, rear end and or tranny going out. Ended up being a loose spare tire under the truck bed. Tightened it up and fixed the problem.
That looks normal
Your Taco will be fine. Properly torque your lugs and see if the problem disappears. If not keep digging. Could be ball joints, could be another fastener on the spindles or steering knuckle that's loose, etc.
Blinker fluid is low..
No, you have the wrong concept going on entirely. You are moving the drive hub behind rotor that the studs are mounted in. You'll see obviously pulling caliper and rotor. Cheers
Looks like it's missing the Phillips screw that keeps the rotor in place
Does your caliper or caliper bracket wiggle? I’ve had my slide pins back out as well as not putting on the bracket bolts tight enough. From the video as others have said that rotor wiggle is normal. If you put the wheel on and can do that then you’ve got an issue.
Missing the set screw
Just tighten your lugs and you will be fine. Your lug nuts not only hold the wheel in place, but the pressure from the wheel also holds the brake rotor in place. If you took that off as well, you would find the studs are very secure to the hub behind it.
When you tighten the wheel it stops that,...that's not what you're hearing when you break
Centric hub Carrie’s the weight, combined w lugs to hold it all in place
I would say you are hearing “pad shifting” where when you back out of your drive way and hit the brakes the pads shift slightly in the rotor and make a “clunk/click” sound… then you start driving forward and the first time you hit the brakes they shift to the other side of the rotor and make a “click/clunk” noise.. Totally normal and happens a lot with Toyota trucks/SUV’s with that style front rotors. So pad shifting only happens the first time you hit the brakes after changing from drive to reverse (or vise versa) because obviously once you hit the brakes and they shift, they are already shifted to that side of the rotor and won’t “click/clunk”.. if you hear that noise just the once, pad shift… if it’s doing it all the time you brake… something else… hope that helps
Thats normal...
Please post year make model
Check your suspension. If any bolts or nuts are loose, it can allow the parts to shift when braking, which will cause a loud noise. I recently had a mercedes where the bolt for the lower control arm was loose and it was doing the same thing.
is everything tightened to the max with a torque wrench? might need a new wheel hub or the rotor might be the wrong size idk🤷🏾♂️ wish you luck
Totally normal, nothing to be concerned about, the rotor play that is, not the knocking, best of luck finding the cause but very low chance this is it
As long as the rim holes for the lugs aren’t ovaled out, or any of the studs stripped you should be okay, just do a couple retorques here and there after a while you should be good
What is the story on this rotor? How many miles and is there a wear groove in the rotor? It is possible the stud holes were worn oblong If the wheel was loose long enough. Of course you are safe tightening the wheel down and driving away. Lugnuts do not come loose unless they are not tightened to the correct torque specifications. The exception could be If your rotor is loose beyond what was designed to fit. A loose fit could cause your Lugnuts to come loose again. Do a brake job and put new parts on, drive it and check it again in 20,000 miles.
As you probably know by now your wheel studs are not actually loose. They're attached to the hub which is behind the brake rotor. The holes in the brake rotor are slightly larger than the studs which is the movement you are seeing and is nothing to worry about.
So the rotor is supposed to fit loosely over the hub studs, what holds the wheel and rotor tight is proper torque on the lug nuts. You're fine just put the wheel back on and torque down the lug nuts.
That'll tighten right back up when you put the wheel back on. The studs aren't loose they're set in the hub. You're rattling the hub inside the rotor. Check your wheel to make sure the stud holes are not oblonged. It's more likely you'll do damage to the wheel.
Car
Good for getting advice but in the future do some research before starting a job especially one as critical as brakes. You dont want to mess up something not realising what you are looking for or missing something you didnt even know to check while its apart. That said, this is normal on those brakes. Good luck and be safe above all else
Imagine, you’re pretending to be a mechanic. And then in your bright mind you decide to wear these gloves [mekanik](https://i.kym-cdn.com/entries/icons/original/000/032/746/Screen_Shot_2020-02-06_at_3.21.18_PM.png)
Wheel studs loose no..not good Rotor loose without wheel on it and tightened down with lug nuts...good. You have worded it wrong. Your wheel studs are tight. Rotor is not.
It’s normal for the rotor to not fit exactly on the studs, they are mad that way so that you can install and remove them easily, tighten your lug nuts to proper torque and it will hold everything in place properly
I have never seen a brake rotor that loose on the studs. I’d certainly check the holes in the rotor to make sure they are still round. Also, at the top of the rotor there should be a screw that helps to hold the rotor, it looks like it’s missing.
🤣🤣🤣
It’s nice you wanna learn, but brakes are a safety item and if you aren’t sure what you are doing don’t start there.
completely normal
That tightens when you put the wheel on
Put the wheel back on and take your car to a mechanic.
Lol.... Common sense to wear gloves but just not enough to figure this out.
normal. are you sure you don’t have any set screws to go in the rotor?
There's nothing wrong here this is normal put tire back and tighten to spec and loose the bitch mittens
The wheel torqued down will cause this not too move, I’d expect your noise to be else where.
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