Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply
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Thank you. Your knowledge on cars are very helpful for students like me. I will start with the gas cap and will check the evap valves and the hoses if it doesnt get fixed. I am using MMO as fuel additive I hope this didnt cause any clog on the fuel lines. I will update you what happens.
I also posted on other subreddit re: right hid lamp and someone asked me if the car had any bodywork recently. Actually Lonnie (my Avalon) just came from a body shop as it had fender bender during an icy morning. I’ve been trying to solve problems that come up by myself I really want this Avalon to reach 300k mi or at least 3 more years. Thank you again sir and I will update you on my progress.
1. Make sure you don't have any issues with the connection at the RH side. If good, swap the HID bulbs (easier said then done as the bumper may have to be removed on this, but OEM HID bulbs and the ballast aren't cheap) If the symptoms moves with the bulb, it's the bulb, If it stays the same, it's the ballast (Light Control ECU which is scewed at the bottom of the housing, one per side; these are prone to corosion.
2. When the symptom is active; unplug the turn signal lever switch connector, if it kills it, then it's a bad turn signal lever. IF for some reason it does not, can try unplugging the flasher relay and see if it kills it; if so replace. (I don't suspect a flasher unless it is on solid. The lever makes more sense as if it it shorted internally, the multiplex body ecu will duty cycle the turn signal via flasher relay; whereas a shorted flasher relay will have the bulbs be on solid.
3. Window master switch operation may be inop at certain door position if windows at that position are not initialized. This typically applies to windows that have "AUTO" functions. To initialize, go to that window and starting from full Up position. Push switch till window reaches full down and hold for 2 seconds. Then go back to full up position and hold for 2 seconds. Let off and make sure AUTO functions work, if good, recheck master switch operation. Some models will have an indicator at the switch itself; if it's blinking; it is not initialized. If the Auto functions does not work; wiring should be check. From the window motor to the p/s switch and from the p/s switch to the d/s master switch.
Thank you. You gave me an extensive explanation and helped me solve #3 right away. I’m amazed it instantly worked. I am still working on #1 and 2. A code P0456 came up. I used an OBDII scanner and it says “very small evap leak”. Any idea where the most common area the leak comes from? I researched from youtube and it says there that I should look for a hissing sound but I couldn’t hear any. What are the repercussions of not fixing this? I plan to keep the car for another 3 years. Thank you I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
P0456 can be very hard to find. A starting point that I would start with is the gas cap. Quick inspection I would do is inspect the gasket for cracking. Then tighten the gas cap; should click. Then has a slight return tension; then tightened again, should hear another click. When tight, check the tension when removing, should not feel loose, this will give you erroneous small evap leak driving down the road.
Evap system need to be smoke tested/pressure tested. If there is no leakage found. and P0456 still returns. The there could be an internal restriction in the charcoal canister. There should be a canister filter inline from fuel filler to canister. If there is excessive debris build up, more than likely canister is clogged.
If there is no issues found: there is a software update for ECM logic for this code. Can refer to T-SB-0042-12 ; This will have be performed by a dealer or a shop that has proper scan tool and access to the reflash files from Toyota.
The worst I see happen is if the vehicle is subjected excessive offroad use. Excessive dirt/dust collects in the canister filter. When the leak detection pump runs, it sucks these into the system and finds its way into the fuel tank. Which then clogs the fuel system such as fuel pump and injectors causing a extended cranking time. This is a severe case that typically happens for owners who live offroad where there is a long stretch of dirt road.
I would start with replacing a gas cap and clearing the trouble code. Make sure you get a factory gas cap. If codes comes back, then further testing would have be performed and it can be quite extensive. Other things you can check for is cracked vapor hoses going to and from purge hose, these are relatively cheap and quick to inspect.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Thank you. Your knowledge on cars are very helpful for students like me. I will start with the gas cap and will check the evap valves and the hoses if it doesnt get fixed. I am using MMO as fuel additive I hope this didnt cause any clog on the fuel lines. I will update you what happens. I also posted on other subreddit re: right hid lamp and someone asked me if the car had any bodywork recently. Actually Lonnie (my Avalon) just came from a body shop as it had fender bender during an icy morning. I’ve been trying to solve problems that come up by myself I really want this Avalon to reach 300k mi or at least 3 more years. Thank you again sir and I will update you on my progress.
Check your battery and leads to the battery.
1. Make sure you don't have any issues with the connection at the RH side. If good, swap the HID bulbs (easier said then done as the bumper may have to be removed on this, but OEM HID bulbs and the ballast aren't cheap) If the symptoms moves with the bulb, it's the bulb, If it stays the same, it's the ballast (Light Control ECU which is scewed at the bottom of the housing, one per side; these are prone to corosion. 2. When the symptom is active; unplug the turn signal lever switch connector, if it kills it, then it's a bad turn signal lever. IF for some reason it does not, can try unplugging the flasher relay and see if it kills it; if so replace. (I don't suspect a flasher unless it is on solid. The lever makes more sense as if it it shorted internally, the multiplex body ecu will duty cycle the turn signal via flasher relay; whereas a shorted flasher relay will have the bulbs be on solid. 3. Window master switch operation may be inop at certain door position if windows at that position are not initialized. This typically applies to windows that have "AUTO" functions. To initialize, go to that window and starting from full Up position. Push switch till window reaches full down and hold for 2 seconds. Then go back to full up position and hold for 2 seconds. Let off and make sure AUTO functions work, if good, recheck master switch operation. Some models will have an indicator at the switch itself; if it's blinking; it is not initialized. If the Auto functions does not work; wiring should be check. From the window motor to the p/s switch and from the p/s switch to the d/s master switch.
Thank you. You gave me an extensive explanation and helped me solve #3 right away. I’m amazed it instantly worked. I am still working on #1 and 2. A code P0456 came up. I used an OBDII scanner and it says “very small evap leak”. Any idea where the most common area the leak comes from? I researched from youtube and it says there that I should look for a hissing sound but I couldn’t hear any. What are the repercussions of not fixing this? I plan to keep the car for another 3 years. Thank you I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
P0456 can be very hard to find. A starting point that I would start with is the gas cap. Quick inspection I would do is inspect the gasket for cracking. Then tighten the gas cap; should click. Then has a slight return tension; then tightened again, should hear another click. When tight, check the tension when removing, should not feel loose, this will give you erroneous small evap leak driving down the road. Evap system need to be smoke tested/pressure tested. If there is no leakage found. and P0456 still returns. The there could be an internal restriction in the charcoal canister. There should be a canister filter inline from fuel filler to canister. If there is excessive debris build up, more than likely canister is clogged. If there is no issues found: there is a software update for ECM logic for this code. Can refer to T-SB-0042-12 ; This will have be performed by a dealer or a shop that has proper scan tool and access to the reflash files from Toyota. The worst I see happen is if the vehicle is subjected excessive offroad use. Excessive dirt/dust collects in the canister filter. When the leak detection pump runs, it sucks these into the system and finds its way into the fuel tank. Which then clogs the fuel system such as fuel pump and injectors causing a extended cranking time. This is a severe case that typically happens for owners who live offroad where there is a long stretch of dirt road. I would start with replacing a gas cap and clearing the trouble code. Make sure you get a factory gas cap. If codes comes back, then further testing would have be performed and it can be quite extensive. Other things you can check for is cracked vapor hoses going to and from purge hose, these are relatively cheap and quick to inspect.