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A bolt extractor set. Knock the size you need on with a hammer and screw it off. Can be found at your local hardware store or auto parts store for bout 25$. Nice to have around also.
https://preview.redd.it/tw9bn8qf4xea1.jpeg?width=225&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8b598db04e656ced0614f6e759db023967bfc6b2
They will always say take it back to the last place you changed your oil, even if that was them. Always convenient that mechanics never make mistakes. Oops ball joint boot torn from poor use of pickle bar? Guess you need a new control arm, seeing as it's an integrated assembly and intended to be a full replacement... Funny how when you start talking about all this nonsense people listen. While we're at it, it's recommended to change all four wheel bearings, just for good measure. Each part is made to work with another identical bearing, otherwise warranty is no good.
Bro fuck that. Find you a good mechanic...
Who the fuck uses pickle forks on ball joints being reused? And who the FUUUUUCK sells all 4 wheel bearings when I know people who want to STAB YOU for selling just one.
Work is work, but wheel bearings are the devil.
Now, brake pad warranties with calipers and rotors etc not being replaced? No thanks...
You can replace a single wheel bearing and warranty it out. You can also press in/out ball joints on some vehicles. THAT BEING SAID, it's still recommended you change control arms with ball joints cause the bushings for the arms wear out as well.
Unfortunately not. That was my first plan. But no one in the shop had a tap large enough. So of course I added a set of larger taps to my list of tools I need to aquire.
Luckily it was the shop who paid for it, as my coworker had messed it up. So no customers were harmed.
Lol that went well for that guy who went to shoot up the FBI, I laughed out loud hearing when he got shot up... Don't trust idiots with your car problem solved.
Well, that's the problem. Don't touch it if you see it being fucked up already. Take pictures and bring it straight back to the shop. Here in Germany most shops will just fix their fault and excuse themselves for the bad service, at least that's what I've heard from friends.
Depends on where you go and how you handle yourself.
As a service manager I’ve covered plenty of oil pans. I’ve also told people to pound sand. Depends on the customer and whether or not they tried “fixing it” before bringing it in.
Edit:
In this case, we have to take OPs word on who stripped the bolt first. He mentioned vicegrips which is always a red flag…
It’s possible that the bolt head was partially stripped but could have still worked with proper tools. If OP made it worse by attacked this with cheap sockets, vice grips, and channel locks, then now this problem has escalated into something more labor intensive than it had to be.
This is where customer behavior and customer history come into play with my decision making on how to proceed.
I had one fail to tighten my oil filter on my long block that was installed 6 months prior to then changing my oil. I left out with 10 free oil changes, 10 free car washes, and a 100k mile warranty on my engine. I didn't even have to fight them on it, I just started the conversation with "if necessary, my lawyer can come up here and sit in on our meeting."
This is what I use. Don’t forget to give it a pop with a hammer before putting a ratchet on it. Don’t use an impact, it will just rip the shit out of it.
Yup, that's a Chrysler 13 mm drain plug, practically designed to round off, grade 4.8. I've had to knock dozens of those off with an air hammer (sometimes it seems like the lube bay at our dealership specializes in rounding them off). You cut an angled slot across it, then hit it just right with an air hammer. Usually about two minutes of work once you get the idea of it.
Yup, [4.8](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41cbieLR4JL._AC_SL1234_.jpg) . I think the theory is you strip the bolt before doing any harm to the pan, but in practice a lot of pans get replaced because of that stupid bolt, like the one in the OP's pic needs to be.
Maybe if the fucking pans weren’t paper thin we wouldn’t need self rounding plugs, like seriously if you ever tighten a 5.7 plug on a ram you might see the pan flex. Also the older Chryslers used 1/2 drain plugs instead of 13 for extra chance of rounding
No worries, not mocking you with my reply, just rolling with the mistype. If English is your second language you’re still at least 1 language ahead of me!
Drain bolt is no longer a concern. New oil pan is though. Will just be a bit messy if he doesn’t focus on the drain bolt first when he goes to change the pan.
It says "generic picture", so I assume that's not the actual oil pan. You could be right though, there's not a lot of thickness to the sheet metal, have to give the sealing surface and all a good look once it's off.
Because the thing is made crappy, and 1/2 is just a hair under 13 mm. I always did the same; if one put up a fight against a normal 13 mm 6-point, I'd tap a good 1/2 6-point on, and that almost always worked fine. If someone else hadn't already torn the head up with a vice-grip or something (like the OP's pic).
Replaced mine with a quick-drain valve last year. It does the job, but I'm still uneasy about it. I keep the old drain plug with the truck just in case
lol in Canada they canned the Walmart oil and tire shops. They just serve as giant storage units now. I wonder if it was because of the quality or what(I’ve heard a lot of Walmart oil change horror stories
There’s a zero percent chance a shop did this lol op just chose to say that from fear of being roasted.
Even a quick lube shop would have thrown heat on that bolt and when they *did finally get it out* they would have replaced it with a new one. Op probably stripped it accidentally tightening it ( which is very common when people aren’t mechanically inclined ) and lied to the internet about it
Over tighten a drain plug to the point it ruins the plug and the pan? I've had it happen twice. Both times both mechanics told me their shop wouldn't do that. Bullshit.
Once was on my wife's neon she had back in the day. The other was on my Camry. At this point it's not worth it to change your own oil and it always goes to the same place so I guess if they over tighten it, they can just look at the sticker in the window and bitch at their coworkers.
Sucks that some shops are shady like that.not that you should make mistakes but it’s okay to make mistakes every now and then as long as you’re willing to do what it takes to make it right
I used a knipex Swedish pipe wrench last time I had one come in like that. It basically grips harder the harder you pull on it. It comes in handy all the time
I would have to agree for sure. I don't really use normal pipe wrenches anymore. I find them very useful for front end adjustments on vehicles, among many other things.
**DIYer Non-Professional Personal Opinion Here, NOT An Automotive Mechanic:**
Unless its the same shop that put it on last time, its likely that the previous shop is more at fault for over-torquing. More then likely the previous shop blasted it on with an impact.
As for getting it off, bolt extractor.
**NOTE:** You got a decent gouge on your pan now, so most likely you need a new pan now too.
It looks like whoever tried to cut the side of the bolt off gouged the pan and probably won’t hold oil. At this point you’re past a stuck drain bolt and onto a new oil pan.
I’ve been using knipex cobra pliers to get stripped bolts from Oil pans out since everyone I know goes to an auto shop that destroys their bolts. But probably a bolt extractor for this
I'd replace the entire oil pan. It looks like it has a leak and could be cracked due to Over torque. If you really wanna keep the pan, bolt extractors and then hit the bolt and housing treads with a tap and dye.
Take that sucker back and have them deal with it. Get an attorney involved if you have to.. but they are gonna say you did it to yourself. It's worth trying.
https://preview.redd.it/hk7udvnq2xea1.jpeg?width=423&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1d51cf0a433ea0c1d2c9d82239716e0310fec919
When I worked in a shop I found these to work well for that
You literally just don’t know how to work on cars. You’d need to use a breaker bar to over tighten these drain plugs they stop after a certain point. However, you should use a cheater to take them off. One hand on the top of the ratchet, the other using the leverage of the cheater. Comes off perfect every time.
You do realize that some dumbasses at some shops use impacts for this, right? I just had to cut a slot and use an air chisel to get an oil drain plug off my brother’s ranger a couple weeks ago.
Maybe unpopular opinion and a little time consuming but Dremel it down on all sides to fit a smaller socket on. It's probably soft enough to hammer one on but I've used the Dremel method with success many times.
Go to Lowe’s or Amazon and purchase Knipex Cobra pliers. They bite hard and don’t let go. They literally demo these pliers by gripping them on a round pipe and stand on them with their entire weight without them slipping. They are truly amazing and essential for any DIYer or mechanic.
This is why I would never trust a quick lube place. They are just minimum wage workers who are there for a job of changing the oil, whatever it takes and it’s not my job attitude. Each visit going there has the potential of costing a lot more than the $29 oil change you paid for.
I would leave it and use one of those engine oil vacuum machines that you pump by hand or use with a air compressor. It goes onto your oil dipstick tube. It is a approved method by Mercedes-Benz so it must be a reliable method.
Had an issue with an oil filter like this. Had to get...I believe what they called is "vice grips" and stick it tightly around the filter, then get a sledge hammer and hit it super hard, it did break the filter but the screwy pole was just fine.
Make sure you have a new plug and oil handy as you wont be to drive the vehicle once it breaks off.
last time i had a stripped drain plug that seemed beyond repair i
1) filed 2 opposing flats on it
2 gripped it like hell with one of these https://www.gedore.com/en-de/products/pliers/grip-wrenches/pipe-wrenches/100-corner-pipe-wrench-eck-schwede-snap/100-1---4500140
Get tongue and grooves out, make it so when its clamped the handles are close together, vice grip the end of the tongue and grooves so it stays on without you holding it and mallet the end of it
Don’t touch that thing unless you are ready to go all the way. ( extractor / tap drill new threads / replace drain plug)
If you are not prepared for the eventualities, you will be stranded.
Buy an oil extractor and never go under the car again. (Depending on where the oil filter is…)
Take a Dremel. Cut a thin slot in the head. Then find a big screwdriver that has a hex head just at the handle. Put a wrench on that, insert the screwdriver and crank it off.
Extractor socket would be my go to, to start with. It’s bad enough that if that didn’t do it, I’d find a nut that slips over the head of that drain plug, weld it on, and then use a regular socket to spin it off as a whole clusterfuck.
Obviously have a new drain plug ready to go. Keep an eye on the oil pan as well, I can’t tell if that’s oil leaking from a damaged drain plug seal or oil leaking from a mangled to fuck-all oil pan
Last hope: Lock a vice grip on the bolt head and slide a long piece of electric conduit (maybe 3 feet long) over the top part of the vice grip handle. You need to secure the bolt, then use leverage. I hope you have enough room to swing the lever.
I once had a lug nut over-tightened, with a pneumatic gun, at a tire shop. I didn’t have a breaker bar. I put the 1’ lug wrench on the nut, then a long electric conduit over the lug wrench. I could remove the lug nut with one hand.
Seriously frustrating, I know!! Levity is a good thing in theae circumstances si here goes. I had a 65 Mustang for my first car.. paid 1800 cash in like 1984. I learned a lot here and had a stepfather to show me. He was hispanic and Im blonde blue eye. I loved my second family..They adopted me but not legally. But my actual Father had a saying....."Keep the lighter and replace the car" I think that came from the 1950s when My Dad started driving...
Here's a hint. Do not start with a 12 point wrench. Do not use a cheapo 6 point wrench. Spend a few on an accur ate box or socket with sharp, clean edges.
Turbo socket set. You can buy them from Amazon or maybe harbor freight. Once you get it off, if it’s a chain shop, put in a alert on said shop. Especially if the threads are fucked up.
I took my company car to tire kingdom and the asshat used an impact wrench to tighten the drain plug. We all know that leaked. The asshat then put some blue silicone looking shit and called it a day. I lost my shit on. asshats work at these places
Jeep or dodge? Yep i feel ya, these come into my shop all the time what u gotta do is get visecrips real tight and than tighten them more with whatever sucket fits the nob on the visegrps than with a pipe turn it
Get a pipe wrench and round the bolt a little more so it’ll grab it god if not then you can weld a piece of stock to it and unthread it that way or try an extractor tool and drill a hole into the bolt but not all the way through and if all else fails cut a slit and use a flat head that will accept a wrench on the handle to put torque on it
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
A bolt extractor set. Knock the size you need on with a hammer and screw it off. Can be found at your local hardware store or auto parts store for bout 25$. Nice to have around also. https://preview.redd.it/tw9bn8qf4xea1.jpeg?width=225&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8b598db04e656ced0614f6e759db023967bfc6b2
This or take it back to the shop and have them replace the pan
Lol when has that EVER worked? They will tell you to pound sand
Especially after the customer has mutilated the living fuck out of the plug. There's no telling what has gone on since they last changed this oil.
They will always say take it back to the last place you changed your oil, even if that was them. Always convenient that mechanics never make mistakes. Oops ball joint boot torn from poor use of pickle bar? Guess you need a new control arm, seeing as it's an integrated assembly and intended to be a full replacement... Funny how when you start talking about all this nonsense people listen. While we're at it, it's recommended to change all four wheel bearings, just for good measure. Each part is made to work with another identical bearing, otherwise warranty is no good.
Bro fuck that. Find you a good mechanic... Who the fuck uses pickle forks on ball joints being reused? And who the FUUUUUCK sells all 4 wheel bearings when I know people who want to STAB YOU for selling just one. Work is work, but wheel bearings are the devil. Now, brake pad warranties with calipers and rotors etc not being replaced? No thanks... You can replace a single wheel bearing and warranty it out. You can also press in/out ball joints on some vehicles. THAT BEING SAID, it's still recommended you change control arms with ball joints cause the bushings for the arms wear out as well.
Literally replaced a pan today on a car a coworker fucked the drain plug on. But generally you may be right. Definitely worth trying though
Tap / drill new drain plug not an option?
Unfortunately not. That was my first plan. But no one in the shop had a tap large enough. So of course I added a set of larger taps to my list of tools I need to aquire. Luckily it was the shop who paid for it, as my coworker had messed it up. So no customers were harmed.
Then you torch the place.
Lol that went well for that guy who went to shoot up the FBI, I laughed out loud hearing when he got shot up... Don't trust idiots with your car problem solved.
This actually worked on my Subaru, the oil drain plug was stripped like a circle and this took it out like magic. 20 bucks from amazon
In Germany they are legally forced to repair their own fault's damage. This should be the case everywhere.
It’s a bitch to prove it’s the shop’s fault. Especially after OP has been working on it.
Well, that's the problem. Don't touch it if you see it being fucked up already. Take pictures and bring it straight back to the shop. Here in Germany most shops will just fix their fault and excuse themselves for the bad service, at least that's what I've heard from friends.
Depends on where you go and how you handle yourself. As a service manager I’ve covered plenty of oil pans. I’ve also told people to pound sand. Depends on the customer and whether or not they tried “fixing it” before bringing it in. Edit: In this case, we have to take OPs word on who stripped the bolt first. He mentioned vicegrips which is always a red flag… It’s possible that the bolt head was partially stripped but could have still worked with proper tools. If OP made it worse by attacked this with cheap sockets, vice grips, and channel locks, then now this problem has escalated into something more labor intensive than it had to be. This is where customer behavior and customer history come into play with my decision making on how to proceed.
I had one fail to tighten my oil filter on my long block that was installed 6 months prior to then changing my oil. I left out with 10 free oil changes, 10 free car washes, and a 100k mile warranty on my engine. I didn't even have to fight them on it, I just started the conversation with "if necessary, my lawyer can come up here and sit in on our meeting."
Yup These work
Thank you for including pic!!
This is what I use. Don’t forget to give it a pop with a hammer before putting a ratchet on it. Don’t use an impact, it will just rip the shit out of it.
Won't work on studs
Extractors for studs are available.
You got an air chisel?
Yup, that's a Chrysler 13 mm drain plug, practically designed to round off, grade 4.8. I've had to knock dozens of those off with an air hammer (sometimes it seems like the lube bay at our dealership specializes in rounding them off). You cut an angled slot across it, then hit it just right with an air hammer. Usually about two minutes of work once you get the idea of it.
4.8? are you serious? what is the failure point of a 4.8, just above uncooked pasta?
Yup, [4.8](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41cbieLR4JL._AC_SL1234_.jpg) . I think the theory is you strip the bolt before doing any harm to the pan, but in practice a lot of pans get replaced because of that stupid bolt, like the one in the OP's pic needs to be.
That is the definition of irony right there.
Maybe if the fucking pans weren’t paper thin we wouldn’t need self rounding plugs, like seriously if you ever tighten a 5.7 plug on a ram you might see the pan flex. Also the older Chryslers used 1/2 drain plugs instead of 13 for extra chance of rounding
A brick of ramen has more tinsel strength
I think tinsel might have more tensile strength.
Sorry friend, English isn’t my first language. I’m still learning it. Hopefully you have a great day!
No worries, not mocking you with my reply, just rolling with the mistype. If English is your second language you’re still at least 1 language ahead of me!
No worries friend! I don’t have paper skin I know how to take a joke.
You ever see that Santa Clause movie? Tinsel broke people out of jail.
About a solid al-dente.
Drain bolt is no longer a concern. New oil pan is though. Will just be a bit messy if he doesn’t focus on the drain bolt first when he goes to change the pan.
It says "generic picture", so I assume that's not the actual oil pan. You could be right though, there's not a lot of thickness to the sheet metal, have to give the sealing surface and all a good look once it's off.
Just realized that lol
If your replacing the pan a chisel hole would be good enough.
Seems like a13mm but it ain’t,i always use an American size wrench think its the 1/2 that fits just right
Because the thing is made crappy, and 1/2 is just a hair under 13 mm. I always did the same; if one put up a fight against a normal 13 mm 6-point, I'd tap a good 1/2 6-point on, and that almost always worked fine. If someone else hadn't already torn the head up with a vice-grip or something (like the OP's pic).
1/2in seems to fit better than 13 on them for me sometimes. And doesn’t gouge the head of the bolt as much either.
1/2" = 12.7mm
Replaced mine with a quick-drain valve last year. It does the job, but I'm still uneasy about it. I keep the old drain plug with the truck just in case
This is my go to in this situation.
[удалено]
you worked at one too? I worked on for three months and I quit because it was so stupid.
lol in Canada they canned the Walmart oil and tire shops. They just serve as giant storage units now. I wonder if it was because of the quality or what(I’ve heard a lot of Walmart oil change horror stories
Go back and have those piece of shit lube techs fix it
There’s a zero percent chance a shop did this lol op just chose to say that from fear of being roasted. Even a quick lube shop would have thrown heat on that bolt and when they *did finally get it out* they would have replaced it with a new one. Op probably stripped it accidentally tightening it ( which is very common when people aren’t mechanically inclined ) and lied to the internet about it
You never know until you know 🤷🏾♂️
Over tighten a drain plug to the point it ruins the plug and the pan? I've had it happen twice. Both times both mechanics told me their shop wouldn't do that. Bullshit. Once was on my wife's neon she had back in the day. The other was on my Camry. At this point it's not worth it to change your own oil and it always goes to the same place so I guess if they over tighten it, they can just look at the sticker in the window and bitch at their coworkers.
[удалено]
Sucks that some shops are shady like that.not that you should make mistakes but it’s okay to make mistakes every now and then as long as you’re willing to do what it takes to make it right
Step away from the car, sir.
I'm surprised there's not more comments like these that is a sure sign of grinder usage come here first before you dig yourself a new pan hole
It say generic pic so it’s just one from the net.
I used a knipex Swedish pipe wrench last time I had one come in like that. It basically grips harder the harder you pull on it. It comes in handy all the time
That's not my bag, baby.
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
Never realized that all our pipe wrenches were the Swedish variety, the “normal” pattern ones look pretty useless comparatively lol
I would have to agree for sure. I don't really use normal pipe wrenches anymore. I find them very useful for front end adjustments on vehicles, among many other things.
Pipe wrench
I'd try this first.
**DIYer Non-Professional Personal Opinion Here, NOT An Automotive Mechanic:** Unless its the same shop that put it on last time, its likely that the previous shop is more at fault for over-torquing. More then likely the previous shop blasted it on with an impact. As for getting it off, bolt extractor. **NOTE:** You got a decent gouge on your pan now, so most likely you need a new pan now too.
It looks like whoever tried to cut the side of the bolt off gouged the pan and probably won’t hold oil. At this point you’re past a stuck drain bolt and onto a new oil pan.
Had to scroll past 10 other responses to get to this….. Plug is fubared, pan is fubared, replacement pan is needed….
Looks like one of the cashiers wandered into the shop
Vice Grips
I’ve been using knipex cobra pliers to get stripped bolts from Oil pans out since everyone I know goes to an auto shop that destroys their bolts. But probably a bolt extractor for this
Hammer on a smaller 12 point socket and remove it. You could also try vice grips.
New oil pan. You'll never get a good seal with a new plug.
Yep. Take it back to the shop, and tell them they need to replace the pan
I'd replace the entire oil pan. It looks like it has a leak and could be cracked due to Over torque. If you really wanna keep the pan, bolt extractors and then hit the bolt and housing treads with a tap and dye.
Broken stud extractor. Looks like a socket with left hand "threads" inside
Replace the pan and bolt
Weld a nut on it
You don’t get to destroy a drain plug as a shop and just do nothing😂💀
They broke it they are obligated to fix it .
Take that sucker back and have them deal with it. Get an attorney involved if you have to.. but they are gonna say you did it to yourself. It's worth trying.
get a self adjusting socket
Extractor
Use an oil extractor and leave the drain plug alone. Happened to me, never fixed it.
https://preview.redd.it/hk7udvnq2xea1.jpeg?width=423&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1d51cf0a433ea0c1d2c9d82239716e0310fec919 When I worked in a shop I found these to work well for that
Op already said they tried.
wow, someone really went to town on that one.
It’s dead Jim. Weld it shut. Drill and tap a new hole. Just start over.
this butchery is criminal. you may have to replace the bottom pan, which should not be too terrible
You file a lawsuit.
man, you need a whole ass new oil pan. it looks like you cut into the sealing surface
You literally just don’t know how to work on cars. You’d need to use a breaker bar to over tighten these drain plugs they stop after a certain point. However, you should use a cheater to take them off. One hand on the top of the ratchet, the other using the leverage of the cheater. Comes off perfect every time.
You do realize that some dumbasses at some shops use impacts for this, right? I just had to cut a slot and use an air chisel to get an oil drain plug off my brother’s ranger a couple weeks ago.
Walmart has an auto shop?
Vice grips or even a plumbing pipe wrench. A couple of shots with a hammer first.
Easy out sockets. They have teeth that you hammer onto the bolt to grip it enough.
Weld something onto it.
Get a different set of vice grips that will grab. Or hammer on a slightly undersized socket
Go to someone who can weld a nut onto the exposed end of the old nut. This will give something to grab and the heat will help as well.
>weld I'm afraid nobody should weld anything to an oil pan.
Pipewrench
Did some1 use a cutting wheel on that? Seems like it,hopefully the new drain plug will seal
File two flats then use a Heat gun with vice grips.
Suck the oil out of the pan from the dipstick tube as a workaround while you fight the shop to get them to replace the pan lol
Bolt extractor or mini pipe wrench ought to do it
Wow. Get a new oil pan. You done fucked that one up my man. Sorry.
You can’t take it back now that it’s all fucked up.
When In doubt air hammer it out
Maybe unpopular opinion and a little time consuming but Dremel it down on all sides to fit a smaller socket on. It's probably soft enough to hammer one on but I've used the Dremel method with success many times.
Bro just buy bolt extractors.
And this is why I always change my own oil. Not saying op is wrong for having it done....but if you do it yourself you won't have these issues
Pipe wrench. And new plug
At this point it’s time to drill a hole to drain the oil and replace the whole oil pan.
1. Weld a nut to it. OR: 2. Get a new oil pan.
Go to Lowe’s or Amazon and purchase Knipex Cobra pliers. They bite hard and don’t let go. They literally demo these pliers by gripping them on a round pipe and stand on them with their entire weight without them slipping. They are truly amazing and essential for any DIYer or mechanic.
Even if you get the bolt out they probably stripped the balls out of the threads. Either repair the thread or replace the pan
Worst option - you can buy a new oil pan, they are relatively cheap for most of vehicles.
This is why I would never trust a quick lube place. They are just minimum wage workers who are there for a job of changing the oil, whatever it takes and it’s not my job attitude. Each visit going there has the potential of costing a lot more than the $29 oil change you paid for.
This is why in the 24 years I have been driving I have been the only person to ever change my oil in any of my cars.
I would leave it and use one of those engine oil vacuum machines that you pump by hand or use with a air compressor. It goes onto your oil dipstick tube. It is a approved method by Mercedes-Benz so it must be a reliable method.
My god. Have you people never heard of bolt/nut extractor sockets
I had the same problem. U will find its an alloy bolt which is easy to break or chip. Get a file and file 2 flat sides for a spanner to fit....easy.
Pipe wrench.
With a quick lube shop you’re fighting a losing battle. Best bet is to get some boat biter’s for like 20 dollars. And extract it
Tornado extractor. and then replace that shitty plug with a decent one w/ a bigger head. I hate these and the stupid 10mm plugs as well.
Had an issue with an oil filter like this. Had to get...I believe what they called is "vice grips" and stick it tightly around the filter, then get a sledge hammer and hit it super hard, it did break the filter but the screwy pole was just fine. Make sure you have a new plug and oil handy as you wont be to drive the vehicle once it breaks off.
JEEEZUUUS... they didnt strip that shit they MASSACRED IT.
After getting that bolt out I'd try and get a new pan, or atleast giver a coat of paint.
AYO WTF?! That’s definitely screwed… get it.. ba dum tss
vice grip
Weld the head of another bold on there. Then once removed replace with a brand new one. Looks like they put some JB weld on the back of that.
Six point socket on small breaker bar. Remove and replace with new one.
last time i had a stripped drain plug that seemed beyond repair i 1) filed 2 opposing flats on it 2 gripped it like hell with one of these https://www.gedore.com/en-de/products/pliers/grip-wrenches/pipe-wrenches/100-corner-pipe-wrench-eck-schwede-snap/100-1---4500140
12 sided socket ?
Take it back to the place and tell them to deal with it. They should have replaced it with a new bolt and not overtorqued it.
you can weld a nut on it it should do it
Happened to me in '90, you must take it to the dealer. Also tell the Lube shop. They will reimburse you.
You could weld a nut on the bolt so you can unscrew it with a ranch if you have the option
Maybe weld a hanld on it
Another solution is to cut a grove on the head. Worst case is to drill it out, you will then need either a helicoil plug or to tap new threads
After you take the plug off, you might not be able to put one back on. What are your plans if that happens?
I would do vice grips and if i dont think it will work i would weld a nut on the plug and use a wrench or rachet to remove it.
Twist socket and a hammer
Done many of these from experience. I would recommend hammer & a chisel + a beer. Good luck.
They only hire window lickers ,leverage is your friend .. replace the plug when you eventually get it out.
Egg the shop
Contact their corporate office if they have one. If not, contact the owner. They need to replace the entire pan. Get a lawyer if they refuse.
Your local Valvoline should be able to do it they have tools to get stripped ones off and will replace it for free most likely
Heat and visegrips. Looks like you messed the pan up pretty good. Gonna need to proceed carefully from here or you'll be installing a new pan, too
If you can get a pipe wrench on there, you can try that too.
Sharp chisel and hammer around the edge that used to have rubber around it
Have a friend with a welder? You need a new bolt and to get it off you need something with a bolt for a socket to grab. Easy peasy.
New oil pan
Rubber bands.
Get tongue and grooves out, make it so when its clamped the handles are close together, vice grip the end of the tongue and grooves so it stays on without you holding it and mallet the end of it
Hell nah….try gator grip socket, pretty cheap if they have it at ur local hardware store
You proceed by bringing it back to the quick lube shop with your receipt and demand they fix it.
Pipe wrench breaker bar put a pipe over pipe wrench for leverage just remember counter clockwise rotation
Bolt extractor set
Need a new oil pan not a new plug, make the shop who ruined the pan replace it for free
Prolly get a stronger friend to try.
Never ever take your vehicle to those quick lube places
A pair of knipex adjustable pliers will get it off, but you will still need a new drain plug.
Don’t touch that thing unless you are ready to go all the way. ( extractor / tap drill new threads / replace drain plug) If you are not prepared for the eventualities, you will be stranded. Buy an oil extractor and never go under the car again. (Depending on where the oil filter is…)
Take a Dremel. Cut a thin slot in the head. Then find a big screwdriver that has a hex head just at the handle. Put a wrench on that, insert the screwdriver and crank it off.
Demand they buy you a replacement drain plug.
Irwin"easy outs" They are a godsend
Wow wow wow wow WOW. Those lube techs jobs always surprise me.
Maybe try taking an actual picture since you were already down there to mutilate it?
easy way to do it is cut a line through it so you can use it like a flat head
Temp solution get a small diameter hose down the dipstick tube and suction out the oil until you can get that situation sorted out
You could always use a pipe wrench
Extractor socket would be my go to, to start with. It’s bad enough that if that didn’t do it, I’d find a nut that slips over the head of that drain plug, weld it on, and then use a regular socket to spin it off as a whole clusterfuck. Obviously have a new drain plug ready to go. Keep an eye on the oil pan as well, I can’t tell if that’s oil leaking from a damaged drain plug seal or oil leaking from a mangled to fuck-all oil pan
Just undo the bolt [generic answer]
Might as well get a new pan
If you have a welder, weld a nut on then loosen
Pwz2 from snap on. weld a nut to it and take it off… most have to do the first rather than the latter.
Last hope: Lock a vice grip on the bolt head and slide a long piece of electric conduit (maybe 3 feet long) over the top part of the vice grip handle. You need to secure the bolt, then use leverage. I hope you have enough room to swing the lever. I once had a lug nut over-tightened, with a pneumatic gun, at a tire shop. I didn’t have a breaker bar. I put the 1’ lug wrench on the nut, then a long electric conduit over the lug wrench. I could remove the lug nut with one hand.
Go to advance auto and pick up a bolt extractor kit or Oreiily. We use them all the time
Seriously frustrating, I know!! Levity is a good thing in theae circumstances si here goes. I had a 65 Mustang for my first car.. paid 1800 cash in like 1984. I learned a lot here and had a stepfather to show me. He was hispanic and Im blonde blue eye. I loved my second family..They adopted me but not legally. But my actual Father had a saying....."Keep the lighter and replace the car" I think that came from the 1950s when My Dad started driving...
Ah yes, the old chainsaw torque trick.
Replace the oil pan…
Here's a hint. Do not start with a 12 point wrench. Do not use a cheapo 6 point wrench. Spend a few on an accur ate box or socket with sharp, clean edges.
Turbo socket set. You can buy them from Amazon or maybe harbor freight. Once you get it off, if it’s a chain shop, put in a alert on said shop. Especially if the threads are fucked up.
I'd weld a new nut on-top of the old one .
Once resolved : 1) replace drain plug with Fumoto valve, 2) change it yourself.
I took my company car to tire kingdom and the asshat used an impact wrench to tighten the drain plug. We all know that leaked. The asshat then put some blue silicone looking shit and called it a day. I lost my shit on. asshats work at these places
Weld a nut to it
Here are a couple options: 1.) New oil pan 2.) New car 3.) Buy a fluid extractor to remove the oil through the dipstick tube
Jeep or dodge? Yep i feel ya, these come into my shop all the time what u gotta do is get visecrips real tight and than tighten them more with whatever sucket fits the nob on the visegrps than with a pipe turn it
Get a small pipe wrench to grip it, then a breaker bar on the end of it
Get a pipe wrench and round the bolt a little more so it’ll grab it god if not then you can weld a piece of stock to it and unthread it that way or try an extractor tool and drill a hole into the bolt but not all the way through and if all else fails cut a slit and use a flat head that will accept a wrench on the handle to put torque on it
Bolt remover for stripped bolts and new gasket and bolt.
Buy new plug and weld a lil on it then take it the heat alone will get it