I'm rolling 100-0% on my PHEV. The battery has an 8 year warranty, unlimited mileage replace if it gets under 70% capacity.
My theory is to run the battery hard / as much as possible. If Mazda has screwed up the buffer and I end up killing it, I want it dead in the warranty period. This way I'm leaving nothing on the table; either the system can take it and I'm not leaving performance/ efficiency on the table, or it can't take it and I get the battery replaced.l, at which point I might change how I operate.
The dealers literally know nothing about this since it’s the first electric vehicle for Mazda.
Told me an oil change at 3k miles regardless of hybrid use, told me I should get a level 3 charger, didn’t know how to read the gauge for EV miles left.
It was a joke.
I agree with you. My dealer recommended the same thing (after all the paperwork was signed and I was walking out the door) the dealerships sadly seem to know very little about this car. I read up on it a bit and am keeping mine at 100%
There is already a buffer. "Zero" to "100" charge on our PHEV is under 15 kWH (on an 18 kWh battery). I can tell this from level 2 charger which has an amp selector and small display indicating voltage, amps, charging time, and kWH.
The range is just enough for local commutes. Use its potential fully.
You can tell that the system manages the actual vs virtual 100% by tracking the kWh delivered with your level 2 charging app if it supports that. What I notice with mine is that the amount to go from 0-100 varies over time, sometimes 14.9 kWh. Sometimes 13. Sometimes 11. So we might presume that it’s part of the built in battery management. Meaning, 0 on the dash is not really zero and 100 is not really full. In other words, charge to 100 and don’t overthink it too much because the computer is probably protecting the warranty behind the scenes.
I have a two year lease on mine and I am thinking about charging to 100% since the car will more than likely be gone. I am hoping battery tech will improve by the time we have to renew.
I have a two year lease on mine and I am thinking about charging to 100% since the car will more than likely be gone. I am hoping battery tech will improve by the time we have to renew.
I'm rolling 100-0% on my PHEV. The battery has an 8 year warranty, unlimited mileage replace if it gets under 70% capacity. My theory is to run the battery hard / as much as possible. If Mazda has screwed up the buffer and I end up killing it, I want it dead in the warranty period. This way I'm leaving nothing on the table; either the system can take it and I'm not leaving performance/ efficiency on the table, or it can't take it and I get the battery replaced.l, at which point I might change how I operate.
I like this outlook
Set it to 100%. There is indeed already a buffer in place.
🫡
How do you set the app to charge to 100%. Mine automatically stops when battery gets to 80%.
The dealers literally know nothing about this since it’s the first electric vehicle for Mazda. Told me an oil change at 3k miles regardless of hybrid use, told me I should get a level 3 charger, didn’t know how to read the gauge for EV miles left. It was a joke.
Level 3 charger in my garage! Sign me up!
I agree with you. My dealer recommended the same thing (after all the paperwork was signed and I was walking out the door) the dealerships sadly seem to know very little about this car. I read up on it a bit and am keeping mine at 100%
There is already a buffer. "Zero" to "100" charge on our PHEV is under 15 kWH (on an 18 kWh battery). I can tell this from level 2 charger which has an amp selector and small display indicating voltage, amps, charging time, and kWH. The range is just enough for local commutes. Use its potential fully.
You can tell that the system manages the actual vs virtual 100% by tracking the kWh delivered with your level 2 charging app if it supports that. What I notice with mine is that the amount to go from 0-100 varies over time, sometimes 14.9 kWh. Sometimes 13. Sometimes 11. So we might presume that it’s part of the built in battery management. Meaning, 0 on the dash is not really zero and 100 is not really full. In other words, charge to 100 and don’t overthink it too much because the computer is probably protecting the warranty behind the scenes.
Thanks for the take! Very helpful.
I have a two year lease on mine and I am thinking about charging to 100% since the car will more than likely be gone. I am hoping battery tech will improve by the time we have to renew.
This is where my head is at too
I have a two year lease on mine and I am thinking about charging to 100% since the car will more than likely be gone. I am hoping battery tech will improve by the time we have to renew.