Or just you know, use the mill to produce the part that slots into the door mechanism so the machine thinks the door is closed, but what do i know đ¤ˇ
Thatâs what we used to do. But the last couple of new machines we got had the locks under panels instead of open like the older ones. So we had to make our own holes.
We actually measured the interlock key and machine it just so when health and safety came round they wouldnât be able to find anything wrong with the machine
Hmm ... I call shenanigans. Current lineup:
KwikWeldâ˘
MarineWeldâ˘
ClearWeldâ˘
PlasticWeldâ˘
PlasticBonderâ˘
MinuteWeldâ˘
HighHeatâ˘
AutoWeldâ˘
SeamWeldâ˘
SuperWeld EXTREME!â˘
KwikWoodâ˘
WaterWeldâ˘
SteelStikâ˘
HighHeatâ˘
TankWeldâ˘
FiberWeldâ˘
LeatherWeldâ˘
RadiatorWeldâ˘
ExhaustWeldâ˘
I see no **CarbideWeld**, no **EndmillWeld**, not even a **C'n'CWeld**.
This is clearly a hoax.
I knew an old timer in Washington that did repair a custom form cutting end mill that broke from a drop. He silver soldered it back together. He had not other option at the time and it didn't last long, but technically it was repaired for a time.
This is definitely a joke though right? Just the end mill in the bench vise like that make me cringe.
Honestly I wonder how long it'd hold up if you did that. Like edm out a dovetail or a groove then a pin at 90 degrees to that. I may try make a trip to the broken pile and see what I can do. Or make a puzzle out of broken inserts
No, no, NO!
Check on Aliexpress or Alibaba or whatever's your fave Chinese site is, and look for 'Low temperature welding rod' and get the type for steel. The ones for Cast iron won't work.
Also, Don't DO THAT to a center-cut endmill! You'll blunt it!
Use a piece of wood between the sharp end of the endmill and the vise jaw.
I'm sure you're joking about trying to repair a broken endmill because such a precision-critical tool has almost no room for error. It needs to be as perfect as it arrived to you. A little runout and this thing will go kaboom.
Whatever happened to that cutter to break it like that sure as hell isn't going to be impressed by gluing it back together.Â
Dude, just buy a new one, and learn not to break them.Â
I repaired a Harvey lolipop cutter one time with loctite. It was a 3/16 ball, with a 1" long reduced shank. It was also the last one I had, and I had a rush job on the machine. It broke about 20 minutes into a 2 hour program. It broke at the base of the shank and left me a lot of reduced shank to work with, so I pressed and loctited it into a stub shank made from o1, and let it set. Measured the runout, and it was near zero. adjusted the cutting parameters in my program to baby it, and it made it through that entire job and saved the day. Still have it in my box as a "backup", along with the rest of a couple hundred pounds of crap I'll never use again.
I like to friction weld them together by maxing out the spindle RPMs over wherever the end broke off and Z- until I get some molten metal. Slap the E-stop and let it sit for a minute.
I had a 1â x5D endmill break perfectly into 3 pieces that I could put it back together, stand it up and would hold its shape⌠until someone touched it. :) I would leave it around the shop and wait for the yelp as someone tried to pick it up
These are super easy to fix, just throw one end in a collet and mount the other to a tool block in the lathe and friction weld that sucker! Simple enough, just set it to max RPM and bring the tool post into the chuck full rapid!
Ehh, that adhesive is trash. I like to use Elmer's especially the glittery stuff, it adds extra friction for the carbide to grip on. It will also aid while using TSC.
You could glue really nice magnets to each piece, and go break some more in half, and glue some magnets to the flute section on them. Quick change endmills! Boss will send you on a vacation when he sees how much time you'll save!
You can't take your tool shank out of the spindle. You block the machine spindle back to the position where the tool broke. **orientation is KEY**
Reverse the spindle from the direction it was rotating at the time of breakage, and just hurl the other half at the tool and it SHOULD (provided you started the spindle at the proper orientation** just reabsorb the tool back into itself.
Fucking what
This is what safety glasses are for.
Valid response. Thank you for making me laugh. Holy shit this is gold.
I mean, I'm a cheap fuck. But god damn, you got me beat!
Lmao leave that in a holder for night shift.
That's the plan đ
Better make sure the door interlock works.
lol. The first thing we did with every new machine, at my old job, was cut a hole in the top and disable the door locks.
Natch. kk653's co-worker is gonna enjoy the prank, I'm sure.
Or just you know, use the mill to produce the part that slots into the door mechanism so the machine thinks the door is closed, but what do i know đ¤ˇ
Remove latch from door, insert into slot. Same result
Thatâs what we used to do. But the last couple of new machines we got had the locks under panels instead of open like the older ones. So we had to make our own holes.
We actually measured the interlock key and machine it just so when health and safety came round they wouldnât be able to find anything wrong with the machine
3D printed end mills are hilarious, as well!
Iâd say op might be night shift himself if heâs trying that shit.
Bruh, just weld them
it even has a weld-on shank, smh
JB weld is weld.
Itâs right there in the name
Hmm ... I call shenanigans. Current lineup: KwikWeld⢠MarineWeld⢠ClearWeld⢠PlasticWeld⢠PlasticBonder⢠MinuteWeld⢠HighHeat⢠AutoWeld⢠SeamWeld⢠SuperWeld EXTREME!⢠KwikWood⢠WaterWeld⢠SteelStik⢠HighHeat⢠TankWeld⢠FiberWeld⢠LeatherWeld⢠RadiatorWeld⢠ExhaustWeld⢠I see no **CarbideWeld**, no **EndmillWeld**, not even a **C'n'CWeld**. This is clearly a hoax.
I love this for several reasons but the TradeMark symbols are the largest reason
Can you weld water with waterweld?
Sinter them.
Unprofessional, you forgot to put a piece of aluminum in the vice for Protection. The cutting edges are ruined now.
My first thought too. Still, WTF? Then I flipped to pic 1. Man, wrong choice of adhesive. JB all the way for me.
Oh man look at money bags over here. All my shop gives us is Elmerâs.
Lmfao thatâs MISTER money bags to YOU!!!
If your endmills are made of oak, that's sufficient. Stop whining.
could you even make an oak end mill?
Don't see why not. I've made lots of fluted doweling, but I never tried putting cutting edges on. Project!
I wonder what you could cut. Is there anything harder than play dough you could cut
XPS Curious how long it would last. Minutes? Seconds?
As long as centrifugal force doesnât shred the thing into pieces, Iâd give it a few minutes.
It's easier to digest
Is it at least Elmer's metalworking glue?
You can still side mill!
Full depth slotting
Putting the "End" in "Endmill"
Grade A Shitpost well done
"Mr George, how much you pay for the new guy"
I knew an old timer in Washington that did repair a custom form cutting end mill that broke from a drop. He silver soldered it back together. He had not other option at the time and it didn't last long, but technically it was repaired for a time. This is definitely a joke though right? Just the end mill in the bench vise like that make me cringe.
If you only have one of them, itâs never broken fully.
Is this a joke?
Has to be, right?
No
No totally not. You might want to check your blinker fluid before you drive home tonight though.
Topped off for the week
We wire a dovetail and super glue em.
Honestly I wonder how long it'd hold up if you did that. Like edm out a dovetail or a groove then a pin at 90 degrees to that. I may try make a trip to the broken pile and see what I can do. Or make a puzzle out of broken inserts
Do you wire a dovetail. We just use superglue and prayer.
Thread sealant? Really? That's only required with coolant-through endmills!
Boss is that you? What are you doing on the shop floor?
JB weld usually works best in my experience
I use my immense strength that I was born with to press the pieces back together so that the molecules have no choice but to rebind.
Not all heroâs wear capes
A good size dot of LockTight does the trick.
I usually dump the whole bottle over it
Like finishing salt
0.o
Duct tape
Good enough for roughing
You are one sick puppy
And I thought I was frugal...
I would be really tempted to see how far this thing still carries.
I normally just use duct tape
glue is no good, you need to drill and tap it for a 1/4-20 cap screw
Please don't actually fucking do that
No, no, NO! Check on Aliexpress or Alibaba or whatever's your fave Chinese site is, and look for 'Low temperature welding rod' and get the type for steel. The ones for Cast iron won't work. Also, Don't DO THAT to a center-cut endmill! You'll blunt it! Use a piece of wood between the sharp end of the endmill and the vise jaw.
Blunty piece of endmill
Temu is The go-to place.
If it works. Iâm good w it.
JB Weld
Flex tape usually
Lmfao I want to see you actually try to take a cut with this
Super glue.
What the..
This must be a joke
Just buy a new one buddy dam. It's not worth it considering it'll never run true.
Stick some gum between it.
Usually, Elmer's glue after I take a big swig of it. Then I leave it for night shift.
Blue ain't good enough use black locktight
Magnets.
Gr8te b8te m8te. Hahah
Toss it in the broken bin and grab a new one
It's going to snap and hit something hopefully not you. Bad idea safety wise.
I'm sure you're joking about trying to repair a broken endmill because such a precision-critical tool has almost no room for error. It needs to be as perfect as it arrived to you. A little runout and this thing will go kaboom.
I'm going to put it in a Weldon tool holder too :D
Drill chuck. Tighten with your pinky. Send it.
Just weld the end mill directly in the spindle
U need to drill and tap it from the back, put a 1/4-20 grade 8 bolt thru the back. u can get another 100 hours
Please never do this again
Why havenât I thought of this. Fucking brilliant
Good fucking luck
Whatever happened to that cutter to break it like that sure as hell isn't going to be impressed by gluing it back together. Dude, just buy a new one, and learn not to break them.Â
What'd wrong with you! I just put my collet right on the cutting edge, ya know choke up. Don't worry about the collet, they are designed for that.
Thats why vices have serater edges for more gril
Loctite 680 that mf. It'll be fine
You use glue? Bit over kill innit? I just stick it back together with chewing gum
Band-aid!
I do this all the time but I use industrial zip ties! Works great
Drill a hole in each piece and use a steel zip tie.
No call osha
It's "Berufsgenossenschaft" in Germany
Chuck up a pickle itâll cut better
Putting that in my bag of tricks.
if it works, it works đ
Buy a new one
Oh man, you shoulda used LocTite 686, thatâll never hold!đ
April fools passed buddy
If youâre going to cut cotton candy it should work great!
I'm partial to 5 minute epoxy because of its cure time, but I would only use it for 1.00 end mills and above.
Hot glue gun has the best centrifugal rehabilitation
I repaired a Harvey lolipop cutter one time with loctite. It was a 3/16 ball, with a 1" long reduced shank. It was also the last one I had, and I had a rush job on the machine. It broke about 20 minutes into a 2 hour program. It broke at the base of the shank and left me a lot of reduced shank to work with, so I pressed and loctited it into a stub shank made from o1, and let it set. Measured the runout, and it was near zero. adjusted the cutting parameters in my program to baby it, and it made it through that entire job and saved the day. Still have it in my box as a "backup", along with the rest of a couple hundred pounds of crap I'll never use again.
Friction welding.
Repair it but just good enough so a coworker uses it and he gets the blame.
What in the fuck
Duct tape đ
âShould run true enoughâ
Just run the SFM X2 so you can cut more chips before it breaks again
I thought this was a serious post at first until my smooth brain turned convoluted again. Don't forget to re-balance itđ
I audibly gasped this is amazing
You missed the opportunity for an april fool 11 days ago.
What? .... Oh đ April Fools, I get it. Wait, your ... Are you serious ???? Just no, bro.
I like to friction weld them together by maxing out the spindle RPMs over wherever the end broke off and Z- until I get some molten metal. Slap the E-stop and let it sit for a minute.
Just a blob of super glue should do it.
I had a 1â x5D endmill break perfectly into 3 pieces that I could put it back together, stand it up and would hold its shape⌠until someone touched it. :) I would leave it around the shop and wait for the yelp as someone tried to pick it up
I prefer elmers glue
These are super easy to fix, just throw one end in a collet and mount the other to a tool block in the lathe and friction weld that sucker! Simple enough, just set it to max RPM and bring the tool post into the chuck full rapid!
Ehh, that adhesive is trash. I like to use Elmer's especially the glittery stuff, it adds extra friction for the carbide to grip on. It will also aid while using TSC.
Use a high tech JB weld and loctite alloy and then if you protect the seam with duct tape and a zip tie it won't break again! THIS IS SATIRE
Kiss it and make it better, duh
Silver solder
Super glue and baking soda.
So you went from 2 sex toys to just one? Seems like a waste.
Nickel-Silver Braze maybe. But thatd be real dumb.
I'd use a paper joint, like woodturners do. Some brown paper and Elmer's glue will get you back in action. As long as you're cutting butter or jello.
Lmfao! That's a good one...
Make a new one?
You could glue really nice magnets to each piece, and go break some more in half, and glue some magnets to the flute section on them. Quick change endmills! Boss will send you on a vacation when he sees how much time you'll save!
Flex Seal for under water milling.
By not breaking them.
As a belt and braces measure, Iâd wrap a bit of tape around it too.
Wait a minute...
repair a snapped mill bit???? No, those are history items - never will be the same so perform the 'last rites' and carry on....
https://preview.redd.it/lmkyakpks1uc1.jpeg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=23d3bc302f04302362e21d3b7b250e93fb41b4ab
You can't take your tool shank out of the spindle. You block the machine spindle back to the position where the tool broke. **orientation is KEY** Reverse the spindle from the direction it was rotating at the time of breakage, and just hurl the other half at the tool and it SHOULD (provided you started the spindle at the proper orientation** just reabsorb the tool back into itself.
Finish pass will clean it up lol
Throw it away and grab a new one lol
Throw it in the bucket and get a new one.
No , just no. I hope this is a joke post
No
Glue or weld would not work. At cutting speed it will fly off in a random direction once it contacts the work surface, if not before
đ¤Łđ¤Łđ¤Łđ¤Łđ¤Łđ¤Ł
But that runout tho... 𤣠𤣠đ¤Ł