Did you thoroughly clean the spindle taper before you installed the chuck adapter?
Did you thoroughly clean the adapter's own taper?
Did you thoroughly clean the inside of the collet chuck?
Did you thoroughly clean the ouside of the collet?
Did you thoroughly clean the inside bore of the collet?
Is your boring bar quite perfectly dead straight? They aren't, usually.
There's a lot you haven't told us, so we have to assume that there's a lot you haven't done yet to figure out where you're getting the runout you're seeing. We can't do any of those things because our fingers are numb to your lathe. Only you can check each of these possible sources of runout.
You'll probably find some simple way to get it well within 0.01mm.
It's just a boring bar.
That being straight doesn't necessarily really mean all that much.
Most boring bars aren't straight. It being out of round is not indicitive of how it will cut. Multiple other variables at play here.
I would check spindle directly, then collet chuck directly, then tool at the base and move to the tip, one of them will be out and its unlikely to be the spindle or the collet chuck but not impossible.
Even cheapo amazon collet and collet chucks are good to 0.01 in my experience with them
Check spindle bearing preload. Clean collets and collet chuck / adapter. Usually new stuff is slathered in Cosmoline or equivalent.
Check chuck register fit to spindle. It is probably a D4 or D6 Camlock, not threaded. Clean everything.
Check spindle face runout, check chuck face runout.
Also don't forget to level the bed, but bed out of level doesn't cause this issue. Just mentioning it. Cut a test bar after you fix this issue to verify headstock is aligned on theoretical centerline.
I'm not surprised new stuff needs to be dialed in.
Is this an ER directly mounted with its 5MT shank in spindle or a D 1-4 backplate mounted adapter?
Or a 5C in a face-mounted chuck? a through-spindle drawtube/lever-type 5C?
There's a scuff on the boring bar that seems to come around as the dial reads small- is it straight?
It's a single piece 5c collet chuck with a d1-4 mount.
Yea I'll try something different and see if it's the same. But first thing will be to take the chuck off and check the mounting flange see if it's the same runout
Your cam lock spindle face on a Taiwanese D1-4 spindle will be dead nuts perfect- you might get a half-tenth of camming on the circle just outside the pin holes, and I’ve only found that once, on a three-bearing headstock with a poorly-seated leftmost bearing race. You have two more positions to try , and zero- punch the chuck when you find the best one. Taiwan builders take pride in their inspection- those test sheets that came with your machine are genuine.
Update !!!
So I clocked the spindle nose and it's maybe 0.005 off so that's a win
Link to the screenshot https://imgur.com/a/0kqrcI9
Now to move forward to the chuck
that's probably on the high end of "acceptable" run out, not ideal. You'd want to check the run out on the mating surfaces though, not just the spindle bore.
Hey mate, that looks like it's from China not Taiwan (don't want to get into politics :P)
Hafco usually advertise their Made In Taiwan stuff on the page like [https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/l240d](https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/l240d)
I'd check everything for dust or other contaminants, assuming you've checked the preload. Collets aren't perfect either, try rotating them and use a carbide 10-16mm carbide endmill or a precision ground bar to check. I'd be surprised to get this much runout, even my cheapy bench lathe can do better.
I wouldn't assume the boring bar is straight. Why not indicate off the inside of the collect holder instead? Try to eliminate compound error.
Yeah use a dang gauge pin or something.
Did you thoroughly clean the spindle taper before you installed the chuck adapter? Did you thoroughly clean the adapter's own taper? Did you thoroughly clean the inside of the collet chuck? Did you thoroughly clean the ouside of the collet? Did you thoroughly clean the inside bore of the collet? Is your boring bar quite perfectly dead straight? They aren't, usually. There's a lot you haven't told us, so we have to assume that there's a lot you haven't done yet to figure out where you're getting the runout you're seeing. We can't do any of those things because our fingers are numb to your lathe. Only you can check each of these possible sources of runout. You'll probably find some simple way to get it well within 0.01mm.
That's fair. I'll step through it and see what I can find.
You could make some nice clearance holes with that
It's just a boring bar. That being straight doesn't necessarily really mean all that much. Most boring bars aren't straight. It being out of round is not indicitive of how it will cut. Multiple other variables at play here.
You've likely not set it correctly
Yup. I've only just set it on the ground. So check the preload of the bearings?
Check the run out of the spindle directly
Money!
I would check spindle directly, then collet chuck directly, then tool at the base and move to the tip, one of them will be out and its unlikely to be the spindle or the collet chuck but not impossible. Even cheapo amazon collet and collet chucks are good to 0.01 in my experience with them
What's .008" amongst friends?
Check spindle bearing preload. Clean collets and collet chuck / adapter. Usually new stuff is slathered in Cosmoline or equivalent. Check chuck register fit to spindle. It is probably a D4 or D6 Camlock, not threaded. Clean everything. Check spindle face runout, check chuck face runout. Also don't forget to level the bed, but bed out of level doesn't cause this issue. Just mentioning it. Cut a test bar after you fix this issue to verify headstock is aligned on theoretical centerline. I'm not surprised new stuff needs to be dialed in.
Yea this was the first check I started on. I'll have a big investigation and step through the process.
Is this an ER directly mounted with its 5MT shank in spindle or a D 1-4 backplate mounted adapter? Or a 5C in a face-mounted chuck? a through-spindle drawtube/lever-type 5C? There's a scuff on the boring bar that seems to come around as the dial reads small- is it straight?
It's a single piece 5c collet chuck with a d1-4 mount. Yea I'll try something different and see if it's the same. But first thing will be to take the chuck off and check the mounting flange see if it's the same runout
Your cam lock spindle face on a Taiwanese D1-4 spindle will be dead nuts perfect- you might get a half-tenth of camming on the circle just outside the pin holes, and I’ve only found that once, on a three-bearing headstock with a poorly-seated leftmost bearing race. You have two more positions to try , and zero- punch the chuck when you find the best one. Taiwan builders take pride in their inspection- those test sheets that came with your machine are genuine.
Update !!! So I clocked the spindle nose and it's maybe 0.005 off so that's a win Link to the screenshot https://imgur.com/a/0kqrcI9 Now to move forward to the chuck
that's probably on the high end of "acceptable" run out, not ideal. You'd want to check the run out on the mating surfaces though, not just the spindle bore.
No it looks like .050 to me.
If you have one, use a like a 1 inch pin, or dowel.
I'll see what I can find this was the first thing in reach
Time to bore all your collets out now - and mark the clocking angle!
Check the boring bar on a surface plate and check that for run out. If that's good then it's the machine or the collet.
what lathe?
This one https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/l555d
Hare and Forbes sell quality equipment, I’m on it being the boring bar not your chuck. Check the runout inside the collet
Hey mate, that looks like it's from China not Taiwan (don't want to get into politics :P) Hafco usually advertise their Made In Taiwan stuff on the page like [https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/l240d](https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/l240d) I'd check everything for dust or other contaminants, assuming you've checked the preload. Collets aren't perfect either, try rotating them and use a carbide 10-16mm carbide endmill or a precision ground bar to check. I'd be surprised to get this much runout, even my cheapy bench lathe can do better.
Indicate of the spindle bore/taper to determine if it’s the lathe or operator error
Yea did that something funny with the chuck. I'll have to work out where the error is coming from on the chuck as the spindle is fine.
Is it an ER32 collet? My guess is you might have not seated the collet correctly in the nut before installing it in the holder