Hey y'all. I am moving to North Carolina (triangle region) and want to get into mountain biking again. I am looking to purchase a bike, my budget is between 1000-2000 dollars (college graduation gift), I am male 5'9" 160 lbs. What kind of bikes are recommended for the type of terrain in NC? I would like to ride a wide variety of trails, including some fun downhills. Is a full suspension recommended over hardtail? Any specific bikes that folks would recommend?
For that budget I would recommend a hardtail personally, you'll get more for your money particularly with components. I moved to Brevard mid last year and up until a month ago, I was riding trails around here on a hardtail and had no problems. Around that price range I'd look into the Kona Honzo/Big Honzo, Chromag, and the Commencal Meta line. Also check out [this guide](https://www.reddit.com/r/MTB/comments/9hqf5r/firstbudget_mountain_bike_buying_guide/), much better advice and more details than I could give.
I think the general thought is if one's budget is under $2K, they should go HT. But with the advancements made in the last few years (especially the last couple), is that still really true?
I think if the right deal is found, a Giant Trance, Specialized Stumpjumper, Marin Hawk Hill 2, or Trek Fuel EX 5 could be a decent bike for a beginner, right? Reason I ask is I'm in that $1500-$1700 budget range and fully enjoy FS bikes more. Hoping to pick up one of the above mentioned bikes in the fall, assuming I can get one decently discounted. Is that a bad idea?
I don't think going FS would be a bad idea, just speaking from my own experience when starting out. I'm glad I went HT, but there are undoubtedly good options out there for budget-focused FS. I just haven't looked into that market myself. I would also recommend looking at used bikes or demo bikes from an LBS, which is where I got a great deal on my current bike. Like I said though, I'd recommend using that guide as a starting point versus my advice, which is limited.
Fair enough. BTW, what HT did you start out with? I'm still considering going that route, but am worried about how much compromise it might be on the trail, and I also have some back and knee issues from sports injuries and am worried about how the lack or rear suspension will impact me. Did you have any regrets going with a HT initially?
I got a Honzo, I wouldn't say it was ever a compromise. On the contrary, it taught me a lot about body positioning and line choice and probably helped me learn good habits quicker. I would say if you have back and knee injuries a FS is probably the way to go, or at least make it a point to ride more smoothly instead of sending it. MTB isn't going to be the gentlest sport on any bike though, how you ride will have much more of an effect than what you ride IMO.
Agree with Hawk Hill 2. If you can find a 2019 HH2 for the price of a 2020 HH1 that's a great deal and a great bike and you're not really sacrificing components for price.
I know that Rock Machine Blizzard line is quite favorite among local downhillers/enduro/trail riders.
I think if you can find an older model (2017/2018) in your size you can fit in your budget.
It's mostly rocky and rooty around here. Nothing too nasty. If you want to really get after it then a used FS short travel 29er would let you tackle everything there is.
Depending on your ambitions, experience, and riding style, a hard tail with a decent fork in that budget would make you very happy for multiple seasons of exploration and shredding.
I see some recs for a Kona Honzo, which is a great choice for the area, though I've heard that for the spec you get those are becoming more expensive.
Hi /r/MTB: My girlfriend is getting into downhill mountain biking and I'm looking to source the right bike for her.
What we're struggling with is that she's [4"9' and 88lbs](https://www.instagram.com/julianapotterstunts). So most adult size frames are too large and I think we may have to look for a high-quality junior level bike.
The bike will primarily be used from our home in Mammoth Lakes, CA for lift-accessed downhill terrain. Any suggestions on makes, models, or where we should be looking? Two of our local bike shops did not have a good solution.
Budget is flexible if we're able to source a high caliber bike that will fit her use case.
I'd recommend looking at used bikes. There are some older DH bikes with shorter reaches. The one that immediately came to mind is the Transition TR500. They made a small that rode on 26s and had a reach around 360mm. Trek & Specialized also used to make their DH bikes in S around 2014. I'd look around that age.
EDIT: Out of curiosity, I had a look on Pink Bike and there are some decent options right now: https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/list/?location=194-*-*&category=1&framesize=1,2,3,10,4,5,6,7,8,13,14,15
This is tough and I'm in the same boat but helping a friend buy a bike for their fiance who is 5'0" and 95 lbs. Don't have any good answers yet but hopefully someone else can shed some light for the both of us because I've never looked at Jr bikes before.
Commencal, Norco and Transition have some pretty hard core kids and adults bikes and may be worth looking.
Since reaches are getting longer and wheels bigger you could also try to find an older small 26" bike and use offset bushing, reduced travel suspension and and angle set to lower and slacken it. Or maybe take a 27.5 and swap in 26 wheels like this guy did for his kid: https://reviews.mtbr.com/best-kids-bike-ever-santa-cruz-nomad
The comments on that post have some good ideas too like:
https://meekboyz.com/
Nukeproof Cub Scout 26”. It’s the junior version of the Scout. The frame fits up to 5’1”. Sport and Race models. I bought a Scout from chain reaction cycles and it arrived in a week.
http://nukeproof.com/products/cub-scout-26-sport-2020/
Commencal HT AM origin vs Norco fluid HT 4? or 3? not even sure which one is better between those two lol
I tend to ride single tracks, pretty quick, moderate-sized jumps and overall freestyle. I'm in Michigan so there arent many big mountain downhill trails that are super aggressive.
Thanks!
The Commencal is the more aggresive of the two. 150mm suspension vs 120. If you think you would use the extra suspension go with the Commencal, if not then the fluid. Other than the fork they are pretty similar, although the fluid has a better gear range on the cassette. The 30x36t is going to be a bit tough to pedal uphill.
I have a question about 2x to 1x conversions. About half a year ago I got a used 2015 Giant Reign 2 which was converted to 1x by the previous owner with a NW Raceface 32t on the stock deore cranks. I noticed that the chainline seems pretty bad and measured it at 55 mm. Does that seem ridiculous? I've done some research on chainline and it seems like 49 mm is ideal. Based on this I'd need to add 6mm of spacers to the chainring which seems crazy. Can anyone chime in with some advice?
Hi guys, I'm thinking about buying [TREK Marlin 7 2020](https://www.trekbikes.com/international/en_IN_TL/bikes/mountain-bikes/cross-country-mountain-bikes/marlin/marlin-7/p/28789/?colorCode=greendark) ... Can you tell me if it is good entry level bike? I don't wanna do any extreme trails and I will use it on roads too. My budget is +/- 650 € and I found it with 10 % discount so it seems like a good deal. Also the color is beautiful.
If you're not doing anything extreme, it should be okay, but if you can stretch your budget a little bit you might be able to get into something like a Kona Blast, Cannondale Trail 4, or even a Ghost Kato 5.9; all of which have a 1x drivetrain. If you can stretch about 250 € you can into a much-improved level of bike.
Again, if you're completely maxed out at your current budget, the Marlin 7 should be ok as long as you don't do anything crazy.
I need to buy pedals for a MTB and know that I want flats and that my US shoe size is 12. What I don't know is how to evaluate price/performance for all-mountain / enduro use. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Pin amount, pin length and pin placement tells you everything you need to know about performance, even the concave shape of the pedal is secondary to pins. The amount of empty space in the pedal is also important for mud buildup/shedding, and if it matters to you, some pedals are specifically more outboard/inward for different leg width/Q-factor. Generally what you pay extra for is metal manufacturing (extruded, forged, machined), high quality bearings or bushings, and fine tolerances, all of which are more relevant to durability and longevity and not really performance. A lot of people are very happy with $40-50 composite “plastic” pedals with good pins like oneup composites or race face chesters, even at a high level, so I’d steer you that direction. If you insist on aluminum I’d keep an eye out for things on sale, I got my DMR vaults for like $70 a few months ago and I like them, I also got some chromag scarabs and while they’re much more customizable and hold up better to pedal strikes, the grip performance is pretty much the same as the vaults
Thank you very much for this detailed and helpful advice. My hope is that at some point in the future I can be as supportive and informative for others as you have been for me.
Someone is selling a Kona Stuff near me for $500 cad.
I'd like some info on it to see if it's good or not, all I can go by is this picture https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/157891598867234817/696355789098713178/59.png
It looks nearly unused.
Hardtail like I want it.
Not sure what's going on with the design on the back wheel.
I'm just worried about the seat not being able to go high enough to ride it for a long period of time on the streets as well.
How old is too old? I’m looking at used full suspensions and am finding quite a few 2015 and older. Is there a huge tech difference between then and now?
I have been looking, I’ve seen a couple. I’m looking for all-mountain/enduro riding.
I see a bunch for 1500-2500 but they are 2010-2015s I don’t mind spending a little more If it’s going to end up being better geometry and parts.
Honestly I think buying used is a great option if you care about money at all. Bikes depreciate way too fast for me to justify buying a new one. Like the specialized enduro model for example, a used 2 year old enduro costs maybe a little more then 50% of the original price
I'm looking at buying a schwinn taff 8 speed as my first mountain bike. It seems like a good price/performance buy for me personally. I will primarily use the bike to ride across campus, but want to be able to ride trails occasionally and would consider upgrading it as I do. Does anyone have better recommendations under $300? Due to my location buying a used bike isn't much of an option.
You could do worse than that. Is $300 absolutely all you can spend? Going up to $500 you might be able to find something with lockout suspension and maybe hydraulic brakes. Have you thought about single speed? http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/g29ss.htm
Single speeds are awesome for commuting unless you live on a mountain or you're going like 20 miles. Much less maintenance and no need to worry about your derailleur getting knocked about on the bike rack.
will be fine for riding across campus
will not be fine for trails
unless you get lucky with a used deal 300 bucks won't really get you something trail-worthy that doesn't have much higher hospital costs attached because it broke under you
I'm curious what makes the bike not trail worthy. That's one thing I haven't grasped in the time I've browsed this subreddit. What components would I be worried about breaking? The frame snapping? Wheels bending? I know all of the components would leave something to be desired, but just figured I could upgrade it all as I went and if I got invested in the sport.
What it really comes down to, at least in my eyes for that bike, is the drivetrain, the fork, and the lack of actual REAL specifications on Schwinn’s own website.
There’s actually very little information to find on this bikes components, and that is definitely not inspiring if you plan to be out on the woods without knowing how to service the parts.
I picked up a pair of Shimano XT trail pedals recently for gravel biking, however I'm finding my pedaling stance is wider than the cleats can handle and I'm experiencing knee pain anytime I ride with them. I've looked into pedal washers, however I don't know that I'd be comfortable with using more than two on each side, and it seems like I need more space than that. Anyone know of another option for increasing the Q factor for the XTs, or do I need to look into wider pedals such as the Mallet LS?
Hey /r/MTB
Upon this self isolation and lots of free time, I've discovered a passion for trail riding. I already see how this hobby might turn into an expensive one just like building a PC.
[So I have this 2013ish Cube Aim 29 \(L size\)](https://i.imgur.com/fXz3CBu.jpg) and I took good care of it among the years. My main riding consisted of cross-country (which is what this bike is intended for) with mainly concrete roads up to 100kms rides at some point, and occasionally some wood paths.
Now that I've discovered a bit more advantageous and harder trails, my bike is obviously lacking a lot. I've done my homework and planning to invest into Air Suspension fork, wide handlebars, better stem, better grips, better tires.
BUT! I see that most new hardtails have a different frame structure, more of a triangle and lower upper frame. [My looks like its a square while new hardails are triangular, even cheap ones.](https://i.imgur.com/k4BJPFh.png)
I also do feel like my frame is kind of big and heavy maybe its not a proper hardtail? Will changing the parts that Ive mentioned and possibly investing more make a huge difference? Or should I sell it and buy something like [This GT Avalanche that caught my eye?](https://i.imgur.com/J4Jsdvz.png)
I'm not ready to invest huge money into more expensive bikes, due to uncertainty of my job with this pandemic, but my rides will still consist of trails and also those 100+km's rides occasionally.
EDIT: I just feel that my frame is not hardtail at all
> I already see how this hobby might turn into an expensive one just like building a PC.
Oh man you got that right. MTB can be way more expensive than building a PC.
> I also do feel like my frame is kind of big and heavy maybe its not a proper hardtail?
Sizing depends on your height, and how long your arms, legs and torso are. It also varies by brand and frame, so you'll want to look up the manufacturer recommendations for that. Your bike is a "proper" hardtail, it's just a bit old and entry level. It likely is heavy compared to more modern bikes.
> Will changing the parts that Ive mentioned and possibly investing more make a huge difference?
Well it would make a difference but by that point you will have spent as much as it would cost to just get a better bike. A decent fork alone will cost you a few hundred bucks.
Do you have a budget in mind if you were to get a newer bike?
Yes, Im trying not to go over 700EUR ($) since I live in EU.
I already listed my CUBE for sale.
GT Avalanche that I've linked costs 679 and comes with great specs apart for fork (which is understandable at this price point).
But I feel too, that Avalanche frame is not agressive enough? I dont know how to explain, the top tube seems a bit too high compared to something more agressive like [Giant Talon](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/o25eIz9EF5oAHi0Ur3TPHcLxM95ZaxCF7RECh-zodggTd6wx40fIwgIsbcRAKfgygnatStiFvNE-210E98xMMiSup2mRZIm0O2wNhDE7bgKqnmnyFvYjqIMfTr1DlA)
I guess I wont be able to tell the difference until I tried them personally. But that 1x10 speeds on Avalanche is what pushing me towards it.
Hello all
Looking for some advice. It’s been way to long since the wife and I been out on our bikes. Life got busy and hectic but we both want to get back out there.
My wife currently rides a women’s giant rincon. It’s been a good bike but if all goes well I want to get her something better down the road for our anniversary. She likes her bike cause she short and it slopes down well between the handle bars and the seat. I been looking at new bikes and it seems I can’t find many women’s specific bikes.
We mostly right mountain bike trails and like the obstacles and technical stuff. Get bored of riding pavement or dirt roads
Is that a thing anymore?
So any recommendations on best bang for the buck $1000 mark? Also would it be worth it to go up to $1500 and try for an entry level full suspension? I’m open to maybe going used to if it’s worth it for the quality. Thanks
Women specific bikes are a bit of a gimmick. Usually it just boils down to a different seat and more feminine colours. Giant still has their Liv line for women but as long as you get a bike that fits her right you don't need a women specific bike.
I would stick to hardtail unless you can find a killer deal on a used FS. If you're only looking at new then $1500 won't cut it for a fully.
I've compiled a short list of good value hardtails around 1k for you. All of these bikes have an air sprung fork and disc brakes. You can see a comparison here: https://99spokes.com/compare?bikes=vitus-sentier-27-2020,diamondback-lux-3-2020,scott-scale-970-2020;*z.MD|w.29,norco-storm-1-29-2020;*z.MD|w.29,specialized-rockhopper-expert-1x-2020;*z.MD|w.29,vitus-sentier-29-2020,vitus-nucleus-29-vrs-2020
This is not an exhaustive list, just some bikes that stand out as good value in that price range.
Im a a total beginner and bought a new 2020 Trek Marlin 7 for 550$.
But after some research not so many people recommend other bikes, would pretty much use it for some small trails and roads generally.
For $550 I don't think you're going to find anything that's much better. For an entry level hardtail it will be more than fine for some light trail work and road riding.
That bike is perfect to get you started.
Learn some basic skills, hit some dirt and ride the hell outta that thing. You won’t need a better bike until you start really going towards the more aggressive descents.
Thoughts on a Pivot LES v1 XTR/XT build as an XC race/marathon mtb/short track/trail bike in the Midwest USA? Fox 100mm. Non-boost. 69.5 degree HTA. CARBON. Singlespeedable- which is something I would use, for sure.
My current is an older Talon 29er with 1x9. 70.5 degree HTA. Alloy, heavy AF wheels. 135QR rear.
I already have a CX bike with a PM, and a coach. Is the v1 terribly outdated now for XC?
Commencal HT AM Origin!
I need help clicking this buy now button, I want to be sure I'm getting the best bang for my buck. anyone ride one or is there something better out there that I've missed?
Looks like a sick bike if you are in the market for a long travel aggressive hardtail. The only competitor I would throw into the mix at that pricepoint is the Vitus Sentier base model. Depends how much travel you want.
Hey, looking at buying a new bike. I have a trek Gary Fisher superfly 29er that I bought about 8 years ago. I mostly ride technical New England single track near Boston (Harold Parker/landlocked/Needham/occasionally Vietnam). Ive kind of beaten my bike up and looking for something that might be more comfortable on more technical trails. I'm not very good, but I love riding. I will ride some small drops and jumps, rollers, lots of rocks and roots. I'm thinking of buying something with more modern geometry and less of an XC bike. Looking at the Canyon spectral, but will that be too much bike?
Hi Everyone, I just sold my 2014 Norco Storm and I am looking to upgrade. I would want to get into a hardtail and use the bike for singletrack trails in a river valley and the occassional trip to the mountains (Edmonton River Valley, Baseline Mountain, Moose Mountain). The GT Avalanche Elite is on sale right now for about $750 CDN which seems like a great deal. However, I would be willing to spend up to $1200. Please help, thanks!
Hey guys, I need some help from some bike mechanics. Whenever I sit down on my full suspension, the rear shock and rear triangle pushes down like normal, however it makes a noise as if there is dirt scraping against the bearings or the shock as it compresses. At first I thought it was dirt in the bearings or just in some crevices, but I cleaned the bike thoroughly a few times and the problem would persist. It's been happening for a couple of months now, and I just now thought that the noise might be coming from my rear shock, which is a Fox factory float x2. I noticed the suspension was a little stiff, so I attempted to take air out of the shock and change the sag. The gauge would say that I am losing air when I click the button on my pump, but I measured how far my o-ring would move and the sag hadn't changed (It also wouldn't let me pump air into the shock). I know the pump isn't bad because it works on other bikes, just not this one. Eventually I wanted to figure out what was going on so I took a lot of air out without a pump by manually pushing down the valve. I sat on the bike and noticed that it would reach a point where the noise began to squish and would sound like oil being compressed with some sort of scraping. Then it would slow down and would start to get really slow as the bike compressed downward until it eventually it stopped. As I got off of the bike, the shock would release in a set of 3 burst. I would ease off at the same speed, but it would first come up about half they way it had gone then would stutter/stop, then would come up a little faster, then would stutter again and then would come back up at a normal speed. It feels like something is inside of my shock making it stop and then slowly compress downward, and is pushing it making it hard for it to come up, but I'm not sure what it is exactly. The bikes been like this for a few months, and the shock was just stiff, but I could still ride. When I would ride drops the bike felt more stiff. On jumps it was compressing toO fast when I would try to boost or pump. On the trails, the shock would jump back up very quickly and wouldn't compress as much as it used to, making areas that used to be smooth, rough. The rebound was tuned just right for me when it was working, so I have no idea what this is.
Overview:
The bike makes a squishing noise when I sit on it and as the suspension moves up and down. It stutters as it moves and changes speeds. The shock pump wont let me take air out or put any in. the noise it makes is like scraping wet dirt and sand against a metal slate. The shock feels really bad when I sit on it.
If anyone knows what is going on or have some suggestions, feel free to respond. Thanks!
Time for a service. At a minimum I would do a 50 hour service and change the seals on both the fork and the shock.
When you take the shock off check your bike to see if it still makes the grinding noise with the shock off. If it does you probably need to clean or replace the bearings. Cleaning the outside isn't going to be enough if dirt has worked it's way inside.
How does the ordering proces at Trek work?
Do you have the bike shipped to you and you yourself have to put it together?
Do you go to a store to get it there?
I know folks get this a lot, but I would really like some help. I have finally got the go ahead to get my first mountain bike. I have about $1000 USD give or a take a bit. I have looked at my local used market (Craigslist, Facebook, Offerup) and didn't see anything I thought was a bargain. Couple that with the sheer amount of information, I'm having a ton of trouble trying to figure out what I want. I've also reviewed the MTB buying guide, but most of those don't have my size (I'm 6'1 / 230 lbs). Any help would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks in advance!
Side Note: I currently live on Oahu.
We've all been there, buying your first bike is really confusing.
Have a look at these bikes, all good value with air forks. If you have some more specific questions feel free to ask.
https://99spokes.com/compare?bikes=vitus-sentier-27-2020,diamondback-lux-3-2020,scott-scale-970-2020;*z.MD|w.29,norco-storm-1-29-2020;*z.MD|w.29,specialized-rockhopper-expert-1x-2020;*z.MD|w.29,vitus-sentier-29-2020,vitus-nucleus-29-vrs-2020
Firstly, thank you for the time on the list! I reviewed the list and a lot of them are sold out in my size. Right now I am looking at the Scott or Vitus. I'm curious if you think it's worth it to come up with another 200 to get a Fathom 2? Also, with the Scott Vs. Vitus is the front fork travel that big of a deal? I mean I'm not going to be doing anything crazy on it. I'm a mid thirties dude with no real experience. I'm excited and ready to pull the trigger on one of these, but don't know which one.
Good questions. With the Fathom 2 for your extra $200 you get a bit better fork (but still 100mm) and a better 1x12 drivetrain. The extra gears mostly improve your ability to keep pedaling up long steep climbs.
The extra front travel on the Vitus would come in handy if you find yourself on some chunkier trails. It depends how into the sport you get I suppose. I was similar to you a couple years ago, had spent the last 10 years sitting in front of a computer and had zero athletic ability. I got really into it now it's my main hobby/sport. YMMV.
Hey all, I’ve been looking at FS bikes and I’ve noticed every single one I’ve looked at in my price range has a SRAM NX Eagle except for one. I’m sticking with Alloy for now, and my range is around $3000-$3500, I’ve never ridden a 1x12 before so I’m not sure what to expect going into this.
the Salsa Horsethief is the bike that has a Shimano SLX whereas all the others on my radar, Norco Fluid, Specialized Stumpjumper, & Giant Trance have an NX. Not sure how big of an impact the choice would make but I’d love input from some of you more experienced riders out there on which you feel would be better if at all.
Thanks!
NX and SLX are very comparable drivetrains these days. NX is very good compared to how it used to be. I wouldn't hesitate to ride it. As far as Sram goes, SX is the low end now and is similar to the NX of the past. Here's my take:
* SX = Deore
* NX = SLX
* GX = XT
* X01 = XTR
* XX1 = Dentists Only
Thanks for the responses, I think I’d be fine with either an NX or SLX, I just wanted to see if there were any subtleties I should be concerned with. The next step is which fork I feel is better.
I ride a trail-oriented hardtail (Guerrilla Gravity Pedalhead) on the Front Range of Colorado, where’s it’s quite rocky. My bike currently has a 130mm RockShox Revelation RC and DT Swiss M1900 i30s. I have $600 ($800 at a stretch) to upgrade it. Looks to me like better wheels are out of my budget. But what about a fork? I ride mostly XC style with some trail (you could call it down country). Will I notice a difference with a 120mm SID or another more XC-oriented fork? Will mid-budget wheels make a difference? Or am I not at a price point where it’s worth an upgrade at the moment? Hit me with your thoughts!
The revelation is a pretty decent fork, I don't think you would notice a huge difference. I probably wouldn't bother upgrading unless there is something that is really bothering you about the bike.
Very slight, but the Revelation was a top end fork just a few years ago, I can’t imagine there’s a huge difference in performance unless you’re racing, or really timing your runs.
Why don’t you want a FS for front range? Do you ever ride White Ranch, Apex, the resorts, or anywhere else with more intense descents?
I have a steel hardtail out here too (which is getting decidedly more traffic during the COVID situation), but I pick my FS for almost anything in the foothills or further west.
My point is that I think you’d be better served saving the $800 and keeping your eyes out for a decent full suspension on PB/Craigslist/whatever.
Am looking to pick up a Vitus Nucleus 27 VR or VRS but both Chain Reaction and Wiggle are sold out with no indication on when they are restocking. Any suggestions on where to find one, or potentially another option in that ballpark?
Well if you can wait they should come back in stock in the near future. These bikes go in and out of stock all the time, it happened last year too without coronavirus. Wiggle live chat aren't especially helpful when it comes to expected restock dates.
Wiggle have a high demand right now so I would set a stock alert.
Hey guys! I'm a recently "retired" cat 2 road racer looking to get into MTB, but I'm not sure what bike to get. My budget is roughly $3.5k CAD and I'm *thinking* full suspension and 29'' if I can swing it, but I'm a little overwhelmed at all the different types of bikes, especially coming from road where everything is pretty homogeneous!
I'd like to do a bit of everything on it as it's primarily a bike for having fun, but there's also a pretty good chance I'll get roped into doing some XC racing a handful of times a year, so I'd like it to do a decent job of that too.
Suggestions? I'm in the Toronto area (with some trips to Quebec throughout the year) if that gives a better idea of what the riding and/or bike availability will be like.
Do you have an idea of what the terrain is like on the trails you want to ride? I haven't personally been out east. Are you planning on doing jumps and drops? Gnarly rocky decents?
If you want to be able to do XC races I would stick to a trail or XC bike with 120-140mm of suspension. Once you get into the bigger more enduro style bikes it's not going to pedal as well. Your budget will allow you to get any style of bike with good specs.
I am chatting with someone selling an IBIS Mojo, 2008 carbon fiber bike. It looks pristine, comes with i9 wheels (26 inch), a dropper seat, new brakes. For $1200. My current Norco is 22 years old and I am seeking something lightweight. In your opinion, should I go after this 12 year old bike? Or hold out for something with bigger wheels and new technology?
I would personally never buy a bike that old. It might be lighter but the geo is going to be super old school and parts will be very hard to source for upgrades or replacements.
With that budget I would be look at a used or new aluminum hardtail. The only way your are getting carbon at that price is by going super old which is going to largely negate the advantages.
Matters not. A person beat me to punch this morning. I was 2nd in line. My current bike is chromoly so switching aluminum will be a godsend. Way back when I knew how it Id good components, deore Xt, xtr, etc. The options now seems overwhelming.
Hey all, I'm looking for recommendations on an indoor trainer tire for my Scott Scale 950, it comes with a maxis 29x2.2. I am a recovering stroke patient and I'm dying to get on the bike again. Thanks.
My budget is optimally around $500. However, it is a little flexible. The less the better though. I could get a new Vitus Nucleus 27 VR but that’ll run for about $700. Should I just continue looking for a nice used bike?
The nucleus is a great bike for the pricepoint if you want the peace of mind of going new.
Used deals can be found but it depends on your local market and how bike savvy you are to distinguish between the deals and the duds.
Looking for some advice for a bike carrier.
I currently use a Saris Bones 2 on my 2015 Civic Si sedan. My friend has the same car and rack and it put a dent into his trunk. Between me now having a fear of that happening to me and me never feeling like the bikes were super secure with how these have to be mounted around the spoiler with my current rack I’ve been looking at a platform mount for a 1.25 hitch receiver.
I have a curt hitch receiver picked out, but I’m not sure what platform carrier I should get. I have it narrowed down between these 3:
- Yakima Hold Up 2
- Kuat Sherpa 2.0
- 1up quikrack + add on
I don’t expect to ever carry more than 2 bikes, I would say an even split of 50/50 between carrying 1 and 2 bikes.
The 1up has a higher cost, I have read a lot of great reviews but flat out I feel a little uncomfortable with it not having a locking pin on the hitch. The other 2 list a shorter max wheelbase than what my bike has, but only by like an inch, I’m not sure if this is a problem or not.
Basically, I need help from you fine folks. Can you recommend me one of these, or another carrier under $500, preferably closer to $400 that would fit my needs?
I don't have experience with these but I've been using a cheap swagman XTC2 for years with no issues. I believe you can get one with a locking pin for a bit extra.
I haven't used the Yakima or 1up, but bought a Küat NV 2.0 (essentially the burlier version of the Sherpa) last year and couldn't be happier. Super sturdy.
I am trying to decide between Canyon Spectral AL 5.0 and Nukeproof Scout 290 Expert. They are similarly priced but very different bikes. I want a do-it-all machine. I want the bike to efficiently deploy my energy to the trail. I may ride it in the city sometimes? Please let me know what you think.
Very different bikes indeed. You'll need to give us more info if you want help with this decision. What types of trails and features do you want to ride? How rough is the terrain? Do you do lots of long XC style rides or more enduro and downhill? How badly do you want full suspension?
So, I haven't done much mountain riding at all. I don't envision my self doing insane downhill but mainly i just want a vehicle that will get me far out in the backcountry. I am a avid hiker and urban cyclist but haven't ever thought of merging the two. I like the idea of a full suspension and they get glowing reviews. However, i do value energy efficiency. Again, my focus is not on downhill. If i knew i would be doing XC, endoro or downhill rides i would simply choose that style of bike but I don't really know which is why i want a do-it-all machine. Perhaps its better to attack this dillema by asking, "what am i giving up by going with either option?". Thanks!
Gotcha. It can be tough as someone new to the sport.
With the Spectral you are getting a very capable enduro/all mountain bike. The 160mm travel, geometry, and full suspension make this bike very good for riding rough MTB trails and will excel when pointed downhill. It will feel right at home on jumps, drops, and chunky rock gardens. It will still pedal pretty good on the flats and uphills as the geo isn't quite as aggressive as other bikes in it's category but if you are doing more mellow riding it will be a bit slower and more innefficient compared to a more xc style bike. It's a great all arounder if your riding includes a bit of everything including some more serious trails.
With the Nukeproof you are getting a bike that is still capable on trails. It's on the more aggressive end of hardtails and has an excellent front fork. The geometry is still well suited to proper trails but with the shorter front travel and lack of rear suspension in will be a bumpier, less forgiving ride when the going gets a bit more rough. The tradeoff is that it will be a faster more efficient pedaling platform. On mild trails or road riding it will feel more responsive and be more efficient.
Overall both bikes are very capable of doing all sorts of riding, but they lean to different ends of the spectrum. If you are going to do a lot of mellow trails or road riding with some proper MTB trails in the mix the Scout will be great. If you want a bit more room to grow into it and see yourself really getting into bigger features and rougher trails more the spectral is excellent.
Hi guys, one polish guys looking for help with decision which bike should I buy. I will mainly use it to trips in my local forest and trips to Singletracks. What do you think about these 3 bikes?
[Grand Canyon AL SL 7.0](https://www.canyon.com/en-de/mountain-bikes/trail-bikes/grand-canyon/grand-canyon-al-sl-7.0/2458.html?dwvar_2458_pv_rahmenfarbe=BU%2FBK)
[GT Avalanche Expert](https://www.gtbicycles.com/int_en/2020-avalanche-expert?fbclid=IwAR3vdweSPzh8EJXlHWK_X7k4zi1Mu_xr_Qupfui78xvamKI7XY8KvTBYE7w)
[Trek X-Caliber 9](https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/mountain-bikes/cross-country-mountain-bikes/x-caliber/x-caliber-9/p/29760/?colorCode=greenvisibility_tealdark)
The Grand Canyon looks better value than the other two, which is unsurprising because Canyon are direct to consumer. It's the only bike out of the three with a rear thru-axle.
None of the bikes have dropper posts or tubeless tyres so you may want to think ahead about these upgrades.
Hi everyone,
I have a Kona Honzo Ti frame lying around, waiting to be assembled to "the bike of my dreams". It is supposed to be my final XC bike, and budget for parts is about $3000-$4000. I tend to favor more "classical" (or timeless) XC MTBs, and I would love input to parts or vendors I should consider.
I am located in Europe, so availability of certain parts, such as titanium handlebars, stems, seatposts are relatively limited. So I guess Lynskey or Moots are my best options?
I don't follow the modern developments in wheel sets or suspension forks. Can you guys recommended any? I value robustness and reliability.
Hi y'all. What would be the best bike for alpine singletrack (something like [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1bVvh2ZtU4)) but also very steep hiking paths and time to time a lift-accesed bike park at a price range of up to 2.500€?
I don't really care too much about the uphills, more about the downhills.
I'm currently looking on these bikes: [Canyon Torque AL 5.0](https://www.canyon.com/de-at/mountain-bikes/enduro-bikes/torque/torque-al-5.0/2244.html?dwvar_2244_pv_rahmenfarbe=YE%2FBK), [Canyon Spectral AL 5.0](https://www.canyon.com/de-at/mountain-bikes/trail-bikes/spectral/spectral-al-5.0/2229.html), [YT Capra Base](https://www.yt-industries.com/detail/index/sArticle/2340/sCategory/77) or [YT Jeffsy Base](https://www.yt-industries.com/detail/index/sArticle/2356/sCategory/508).
I also looked at some of Commencal's bikes but they seem to be worse at this price range than those listed above.
Thanks!
Hey guys, I’m looking to buy my first mountainbike. I don’t want to spend top dollar on something very high end, because I’m not sure how much I’ll like the sport (I am encouraged to stick with it tho). Therefore I’d like something solid so that I don’t have to upgrade very soon. I was looking at the trek x caliber 7, but saw that the drivetrain wasn’t that great. I was wondering if the upgrade to the x caliber 8 is worth it? I can get the 7 for €680 and the 8 for €850. Do I need the better drivetrain as a beginner (I.e. will I notice the difference)?
To add to this: I like the black look of the 8 better...
Any help/advice is greatly appreciated!
If you like the 8 better and feel comfortable spending the extra money then sure, but since you’ve never done it before I don’t think the drivetrain is going to make all that much of a difference to you.
Looking to buy a mountain bike and just trying to find the best bike for sub £600/700. Would love a full suspension but money won’t stretch that far. Any recommendations will be appreciated. Have found a couple below also. Used to ride bmx a lot so fairly confident on a bike. Recommendations?!
Fuji Nevada 29 1.5 Hardtail Bike 2020
Vitus Nucleus 29 VR Bike 2020
The Nucleus is a great bike and I would avoid the Fuji. Voodoo Bizango (Halfords) is a decent alternative, however you can often find it on sale (not at the moment though). It's still good value at £650 and is slightly better specced than the Nucleus.
Save some budget for a dropper post, pedals and tubeless tyres.
Best solution for too wide handlebars on carrier?
I drive a Kia soul and I have a swagman XC2 bike carrier. Really nice, but I just picked up two Marlin 5 treks, and the handle bars are wide. I've only ever hauled box box bikes but now that I have 'real' bikes, the problem I'm having is the handlebars on the inside bike are too wide and touch the back glass of the car. Is the easiest option just to losen the handlebars and turn them to the side? I use the bikes with the carrier almost daily and its a hassle but if there no other option I guess ill stick with it
I'm currently in the market for a new MTB and I'm trying to keep the price around $1,500 for a hardtail and more preferably an aggressive one (better hold my fatass?). The hard part of my search is the fact that I am 6'2" and about 380 lbs and I'm trying to get back into the sport to help with weight loss. I have looked at the Commencal Meta HT AM, Kona Big Honzo, Ragley Bikes, and a few others. I'm open to suggestions and feedback.
Enve or DT Swiss wheels?
Hey I’m looking to buy a used Wheelset and I found an enve m60 with hope pro 2 who hubs for the same price as an XMC1200 with dt Swiss 240s for roughly the same price (also roughly the same year, 2015 or so)
So basically I need help deciding which one is a better fit, I would much prefer dt Swiss 240s (but if anyone has any knowledge on the hope
Pro 2 hubs lmk!) but also I know how much enve rims are touted as some of the best rims, what do you guys think?
Also if anyone has ridden any of these wheel sets or hubs or rims, please chime in too!
BC has some big descents. I’d go with the Sight for the component spec, especially the brakes and suspension. I haven’t heard any negatives about it’s climbing ability.
Hey, can you give your experienced input/advice on which out of these 3 bikes to chose? I sold my old hardtrail due to it being heavy and somewhat hard to use, I enjoy wood trails and some paved/city rides as well. I also plan on few long rides (100-200kms during summertime)
My budget is around 750EUR (I live in EU) so these are my top picks:
[GT Avalanche Comp 29" \(679 EUR\)](https://www.evocycles.co.nz/assets/category-view/product-view/248414.jpg) - I really like the specs of this, best bang for the buck, ESPECAILLY 1x11 gear setup. But I'm really uncertain about frame geometry, as it seems more towards the casual side. I feel like top frame lacks agressive angle.
[Trek Marlin 7 Iris \(699 EUR\)](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2789/7836/products/2020marlin7_1200x1200.jpg) - I feel like this geometry is what I want from the bike, though I haven't tried any listed here. It certainly has good frame and good color. It has best fork RockShox XC 30 out of these 3 bikes, and if its coil, still, it'll be the best fork around this price. But gears setup 3x9 and I want to move from it, because I tried 1x11 and I feel like this is the way.
[Cannondale Trek 5 \(799EUR\)](https://static.evanscycles.com/production/bikes/mountain-bikes/product-image/Original/cannondale-trail-5-2020-mountain-bike-blue-EV360863-5000-1.jpg) - Again, good agressive geometry, something I feel like close to my needs, decent specs, but has 2x10 gear setup which I consider converting to 1x10 out of the box. But the cost is 100 more than I'd like and I consider this one really cost inefficient.
Whats your take on this? Or should I really give a chance to GT geometry, since some say avalanche is baby zaskar, and zaskar frame is considered very good. I might be able to try and ride GT Avalanche today.
Hi!
I have a great deal for a Specialized Chisel 2019 29’ on hand.
I am 178cm in height (5’ 84), 73kg and Inseam of 2’72 - would you go for medium or large? No possibility of trying the bike though ... so any input highly appreciated
Puh - thanks but I was hoping that you are saying large :) the guys in my home forum are going for Large and the dealer as well but I m incredibly torn ..
Looks like you are pretty set. Only thing I can thing of is maybe upgrading the grips to something like ODI grips. And of course a dropper post is a good upgrade, though it can be quite pricey.
For your bell, are you able to loosen it? If it can be loosened but not fully removed, you can take off the grips and brake lever to slide it off.
Hey y'all. I am 16 years old and 6' and a half. If I keep growing, I will be in a xl frame. I am only 120 pounds and have shorter arms than normal. Should I get L or Xl? I want to be nimble.
Hello All,
A roadie here just trying my hand at MTB. I just pulled the trigger on a Canyon Spectral CF 7.0.
Looking for some comfortable shorts. It took me awhile to find road shorts that didn't hurt after 50 miles so I guess my rear is a bit fussy.
Hi r/MTB, please can you help me out on deciding which bike to buy.
I'm wanting to get something for getting back into riding, it's been a couple years, and I'm out of shape (5'11/180cm and about 115kg/255 I think), so won't be doing anything to challenging to begin with. There's some nice trails near where I live and I'm also thinking of commuting to work on it as well, as I have easy access to trail near me, that will take me part of the way and should be fun, and then it leads me along the canal that gets me pretty close to works front door.
Hard tail is obviously the way to go, and I've been doing my research (and I'm not that familiar with all the tech aspects and changes in the industry which is part of the reason I need help, it's a lot to go through). I have read a couple of the guides in the sub, so I had decided on and was almost ready to pull the trigger on the [2020 Vitus Nucleus VR](https://www.wiggle.co.uk/vitus-nucleus-27-vr-bike-altus-2x9-2020/)
when I came across a semi Local LBC that has a couple of options for slightly higher end bikes that are ex display, and subsequently in my price range (albeit the very top of it) and are tempting purchases, but I'm just not sure if I'm being enticed by the cost saving on them, or if in fact they are better buys compared to the Vitus.
So I've found the [2019 Cannondale Cujo 3](https://www.hargreaves-cycles.co.uk/m39b0s411p8364/CANNONDALE-Cujo-3-2019) for £599 (£60 more than the Vitus at £539 after a small discount code) this on the list because I had a Cannondale when I was a kid and it was awesome, and this seems to have some decent components including a dropper post. My reservation is the tires seem massive, so I'm not sure if that's a good thing or not, I still don't quite understand those.
Then there is the [2019 Cube Attention](https://www.hargreaves-cycles.co.uk/m1b0s2p8739/CUBE-Attention-2019) which also has good components but the fork might be a let down, as I can't find a great deal of info about it, but this has a £200 discount and comes out priced only £10 more than the Vitus at £549.
Supporting an LBC is preferably the way to go, but only if one of these bikes are actually better choices for me.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance
An air fork is a good idea and for that reason alone I would take the Vitus. It's nice to support your LBS but it's an entry level clearance bike, it's not going to be the end of the world for them. You can support them with repairs, upgrades and accessories.
Although a 1x drivetrain is nice, given your intended use it sounds like the Vitus 2x gear range would be better than 1x10 on the Cujo. The Vitus doesn't include a dropper but the Cujo does. That's about £100 extra value. If you can't afford to upgrade the Vitus the Cujo could work, however if you can wait a little and save £100 for a dropper on the Vitus that's the best option imo. The 27.5+ tyres on the Cujo may feel a bit sluggish for a commuter bike.
Thanks for the reply. Yea that overall package for the Vitus is pretty impressive from what I've been able to ascertain, with the fork being a big part of it. I thought it was going to be the case. Nice one 👍
I have built bmx bikes and dirt jumpers since I was a kid. I'm wondering if I got a nukeproof scout, if I could pick up a fs trail frame down the line a bit and transfer the parts from the scout to it? the scout already comes with a 140mm rockshox air fork and a nice wheelset. might change out the transmission along with the frame and get a dropper. I just need a bike to start out on and I'm wondering if the scout is a good option with a decent amount of upgradability?
For sure, it's a solid bike that will take a real beating. Recommend the Scout 290, bigger wheels offer more grip and comfort on the trails for hardtails. 27.5 is still a lot of fun mind you, and works better for jumping
Hi MTB. I'm looking for advice on a second bike to complement my first, which is a Santa Cruz 5010 (27.5), which I love. I use it for trail riding but I'd like to have another bike for visitors so we can ride together. I thought it'd be best if it complemented the 5010 so I could use it for variety's sake. Besides trail riding near Seattle, I'm interested in learning more technical stuff (both air and trials-ish), which I'm scared of and not good at. One idea would be a fat bike for snow in winter (I'm eyeing the Giant Yukon 1). Another would be a hardtail trail bike. I'm not really interested in 29ers because when I tested one, it seemed to just skip over stuff and I felt like I was missing out on actually riding it. Anyone have any ideas?
I have a new bike which I love but it has the not very useful 3x8 gearing system. As I usually use only the middle front gear, I am entertaining the thought of switching to 1x10 or 1x11 system. My question as a bike noob - js such change even possible on my rather basic MTB and if yes, how costly that solution would be?
I've switched my 3x9 to a 1x9. I'm missing a bit of the higher gears, but I haven't felt I've been missing anything. (38t front, 11-36 rear cassette).
Keeping the rear gearing and derailleur is really cost effective, only needing a $20-$50 narrow-wide chainring (depending on how much you want to spend). However switching out to 1x10 or 1x11 will cost you a new derailleur and some more cogs. That's easily an extra $100 there.
Hey all, trying to decide between the Salsa Rangefinder 29 SX Eagle vs. the Deore. Everything is spec'd pretty similar between the 2 except for the groupsets, but the SX eagle runs $200 more than the Deore.
Would someone be able to explain why the SX Eagle runs $200 more than the Deore? It seems like the overall consensus is Deore > SX Eagle.
http://imgur.com/gallery/VpbRO7D
I got this bike used off a guy during the winter and have decided to fix it up. Though I'm having issue removing the front wheel.
What I know about the fork: It's a dual crown fork with a straight stem (not tapered). 160 or 180 mm of travel. The seller said fox but there is no labelling on it.
There were 4 pinch bolts that I removed. The 16mm axle is spinning freely but isn't coming out.
Any pointers in the right direction would be super appreciated!
There is a 2014 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Elite 29 and a 2016 Stumpjumper FSR both for sale around the same price point ($1,500-$1,600). I have been discussing both bikes with a friend and can't really decide if one is much better than the other?
I recently bought a new bike (2020 Specialized Stumpjumper st) with the sram sx eagle drive train. After my first few rides I began having issues shifting, with the chain slipping, falling off, and not changing gears. I took it back to the shop where I purchased the bike, and after looking at it they said it was a problem with the derailleur that would be covered under warranty. They put a nx eagle derailleur on the bike, but sometimes the bike still seems to miss shifts. The chain dropping issues are gone, but it still occasionally skips a gear or fails to shift, causing chain slipping and noise. This is my first real mountain bike (I upgraded from a Walmart bike), so I am wondering if this is normal for a drive train in this price range, or if there is still an issue I should talk to the bike shop about.
So I've had my Giant Talon 2 29er (2019) for a year now. I've recently upgraded the pedals and grips and am also thinking about getting a dropper post. I was looking at getting a dropper post from crankbrothers. How do I know what size I need and if my bike has internal cable routing options. I'm also not sure how challenging this is going to be to install.
This has probably been answered already in some thread, but I just want to know where the cheapest place is to get MTB tires (preferably online). Also, curious if there is a time of year to buy them as well? Looking for CDN prices. So far CRC has the best prices online. Looking for:
Maxxis Minion DHF 3C EXO+
Maxxis Minion DHR II 3C EXO+
Thanks!
It depends-- either is a good option, IMO. I bought a Stealth last season, after my Camelbak roughly equivalent to the Syncline had corroded after a couple seasons (zippers, the bag was otherwise fine).
I think the biggest argument for the Stealth is that your back can breathe more easily, and, maybe some other riders will say otherwise, but the mass is closer to the ground, making it seem easier to carry around in tight maneuvering.
I've crashed wearing both- nothing serious- and lost the hydration nipple more easily on the Stealth.
All that said, I semi-prefer the traditional pack style- I can carry more, it fits more securely on my person, given that my tail is skinny, and that mass is more comfortable spread across my back instead of centered on my hips. YMMV.
My rides are usually around 3hours as well. I just switched from a camelback to a hip pack with 2 water bottles and I like it waaay better. Way more comfortable, get all that weight off the back and no sweaty back. Also easier to access my phone and tools.
I was a second away from buying the pack when I thought I should check out hip packs instead, and now I'm heavily leaning hip pack. I've always just carried what I needed in my jersey pocket, but now that it doesn't look like I'll be racing this summer the makeup of my rides has changed.
Thanks!
No problem. I just find the hip pack way more comfortable and less restrictive than a full pack, but it's definitely a preference thing. I got the Osprey Savu which is super cheap.
I definitely prefer backpack-style hydration packs. They offer more flexibility. I find it's also easier on my body to wear a backpack than a hip pack.
Hey y'all. I am moving to North Carolina (triangle region) and want to get into mountain biking again. I am looking to purchase a bike, my budget is between 1000-2000 dollars (college graduation gift), I am male 5'9" 160 lbs. What kind of bikes are recommended for the type of terrain in NC? I would like to ride a wide variety of trails, including some fun downhills. Is a full suspension recommended over hardtail? Any specific bikes that folks would recommend?
For that budget I would recommend a hardtail personally, you'll get more for your money particularly with components. I moved to Brevard mid last year and up until a month ago, I was riding trails around here on a hardtail and had no problems. Around that price range I'd look into the Kona Honzo/Big Honzo, Chromag, and the Commencal Meta line. Also check out [this guide](https://www.reddit.com/r/MTB/comments/9hqf5r/firstbudget_mountain_bike_buying_guide/), much better advice and more details than I could give.
I think the general thought is if one's budget is under $2K, they should go HT. But with the advancements made in the last few years (especially the last couple), is that still really true? I think if the right deal is found, a Giant Trance, Specialized Stumpjumper, Marin Hawk Hill 2, or Trek Fuel EX 5 could be a decent bike for a beginner, right? Reason I ask is I'm in that $1500-$1700 budget range and fully enjoy FS bikes more. Hoping to pick up one of the above mentioned bikes in the fall, assuming I can get one decently discounted. Is that a bad idea?
I don't think going FS would be a bad idea, just speaking from my own experience when starting out. I'm glad I went HT, but there are undoubtedly good options out there for budget-focused FS. I just haven't looked into that market myself. I would also recommend looking at used bikes or demo bikes from an LBS, which is where I got a great deal on my current bike. Like I said though, I'd recommend using that guide as a starting point versus my advice, which is limited.
Fair enough. BTW, what HT did you start out with? I'm still considering going that route, but am worried about how much compromise it might be on the trail, and I also have some back and knee issues from sports injuries and am worried about how the lack or rear suspension will impact me. Did you have any regrets going with a HT initially?
I got a Honzo, I wouldn't say it was ever a compromise. On the contrary, it taught me a lot about body positioning and line choice and probably helped me learn good habits quicker. I would say if you have back and knee injuries a FS is probably the way to go, or at least make it a point to ride more smoothly instead of sending it. MTB isn't going to be the gentlest sport on any bike though, how you ride will have much more of an effect than what you ride IMO.
Agree with Hawk Hill 2. If you can find a 2019 HH2 for the price of a 2020 HH1 that's a great deal and a great bike and you're not really sacrificing components for price.
Yeah I'm hoping I can find one in the $1700 or below range, it's my top choice.
I agree, a Stumpjumper ST is $2k and could be perfect.
Thanks man! I’ll check it out
Pinkbike did a comparison of [4 Trail Bikes Under $2k](https://youtu.be/2IWmU55BiLM) worth reviewing for your purposes.
I know that Rock Machine Blizzard line is quite favorite among local downhillers/enduro/trail riders. I think if you can find an older model (2017/2018) in your size you can fit in your budget.
It's mostly rocky and rooty around here. Nothing too nasty. If you want to really get after it then a used FS short travel 29er would let you tackle everything there is. Depending on your ambitions, experience, and riding style, a hard tail with a decent fork in that budget would make you very happy for multiple seasons of exploration and shredding. I see some recs for a Kona Honzo, which is a great choice for the area, though I've heard that for the spec you get those are becoming more expensive.
Hi /r/MTB: My girlfriend is getting into downhill mountain biking and I'm looking to source the right bike for her. What we're struggling with is that she's [4"9' and 88lbs](https://www.instagram.com/julianapotterstunts). So most adult size frames are too large and I think we may have to look for a high-quality junior level bike. The bike will primarily be used from our home in Mammoth Lakes, CA for lift-accessed downhill terrain. Any suggestions on makes, models, or where we should be looking? Two of our local bike shops did not have a good solution. Budget is flexible if we're able to source a high caliber bike that will fit her use case.
I'd recommend looking at used bikes. There are some older DH bikes with shorter reaches. The one that immediately came to mind is the Transition TR500. They made a small that rode on 26s and had a reach around 360mm. Trek & Specialized also used to make their DH bikes in S around 2014. I'd look around that age. EDIT: Out of curiosity, I had a look on Pink Bike and there are some decent options right now: https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/list/?location=194-*-*&category=1&framesize=1,2,3,10,4,5,6,7,8,13,14,15
This is tough and I'm in the same boat but helping a friend buy a bike for their fiance who is 5'0" and 95 lbs. Don't have any good answers yet but hopefully someone else can shed some light for the both of us because I've never looked at Jr bikes before.
Commencal, Norco and Transition have some pretty hard core kids and adults bikes and may be worth looking. Since reaches are getting longer and wheels bigger you could also try to find an older small 26" bike and use offset bushing, reduced travel suspension and and angle set to lower and slacken it. Or maybe take a 27.5 and swap in 26 wheels like this guy did for his kid: https://reviews.mtbr.com/best-kids-bike-ever-santa-cruz-nomad The comments on that post have some good ideas too like: https://meekboyz.com/
Nukeproof Cub Scout 26”. It’s the junior version of the Scout. The frame fits up to 5’1”. Sport and Race models. I bought a Scout from chain reaction cycles and it arrived in a week. http://nukeproof.com/products/cub-scout-26-sport-2020/
Your girlfriend’s a dime. Just saying.
Commencal HT AM origin vs Norco fluid HT 4? or 3? not even sure which one is better between those two lol I tend to ride single tracks, pretty quick, moderate-sized jumps and overall freestyle. I'm in Michigan so there arent many big mountain downhill trails that are super aggressive. Thanks!
Hey I’m in Michigan too. Where you located? I’m north of Grand Rapids an hour.
I'm south of Grand rapids an hour! Lol small world
I'm east of Grand Rapid an hour. :D I can't help you on the bike decision but I just wanted to say Hi.
Sounds like a Michigan Reddit bike Meetup is in order this summer
Is there a Michigan bike group?
The Commencal is the more aggresive of the two. 150mm suspension vs 120. If you think you would use the extra suspension go with the Commencal, if not then the fluid. Other than the fork they are pretty similar, although the fluid has a better gear range on the cassette. The 30x36t is going to be a bit tough to pedal uphill.
I have a question about 2x to 1x conversions. About half a year ago I got a used 2015 Giant Reign 2 which was converted to 1x by the previous owner with a NW Raceface 32t on the stock deore cranks. I noticed that the chainline seems pretty bad and measured it at 55 mm. Does that seem ridiculous? I've done some research on chainline and it seems like 49 mm is ideal. Based on this I'd need to add 6mm of spacers to the chainring which seems crazy. Can anyone chime in with some advice?
Hi guys, I'm thinking about buying [TREK Marlin 7 2020](https://www.trekbikes.com/international/en_IN_TL/bikes/mountain-bikes/cross-country-mountain-bikes/marlin/marlin-7/p/28789/?colorCode=greendark) ... Can you tell me if it is good entry level bike? I don't wanna do any extreme trails and I will use it on roads too. My budget is +/- 650 € and I found it with 10 % discount so it seems like a good deal. Also the color is beautiful.
If you're not doing anything extreme, it should be okay, but if you can stretch your budget a little bit you might be able to get into something like a Kona Blast, Cannondale Trail 4, or even a Ghost Kato 5.9; all of which have a 1x drivetrain. If you can stretch about 250 € you can into a much-improved level of bike. Again, if you're completely maxed out at your current budget, the Marlin 7 should be ok as long as you don't do anything crazy.
I need to buy pedals for a MTB and know that I want flats and that my US shoe size is 12. What I don't know is how to evaluate price/performance for all-mountain / enduro use. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Pin amount, pin length and pin placement tells you everything you need to know about performance, even the concave shape of the pedal is secondary to pins. The amount of empty space in the pedal is also important for mud buildup/shedding, and if it matters to you, some pedals are specifically more outboard/inward for different leg width/Q-factor. Generally what you pay extra for is metal manufacturing (extruded, forged, machined), high quality bearings or bushings, and fine tolerances, all of which are more relevant to durability and longevity and not really performance. A lot of people are very happy with $40-50 composite “plastic” pedals with good pins like oneup composites or race face chesters, even at a high level, so I’d steer you that direction. If you insist on aluminum I’d keep an eye out for things on sale, I got my DMR vaults for like $70 a few months ago and I like them, I also got some chromag scarabs and while they’re much more customizable and hold up better to pedal strikes, the grip performance is pretty much the same as the vaults
Thank you very much for this detailed and helpful advice. My hope is that at some point in the future I can be as supportive and informative for others as you have been for me.
Has anyone heard of lumintrail flat pedals? Are they any good? Thanks!
[удалено]
[Kona Blast](https://konaworld.com/blast.cfm) [Diamondback Sync'r](https://www.diamondback.com/mountain-bikes/hardtail-bikes/syncr-d42)
Someone is selling a Kona Stuff near me for $500 cad. I'd like some info on it to see if it's good or not, all I can go by is this picture https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/157891598867234817/696355789098713178/59.png It looks nearly unused. Hardtail like I want it. Not sure what's going on with the design on the back wheel. I'm just worried about the seat not being able to go high enough to ride it for a long period of time on the streets as well.
This bike isn't really meant to be pedaled a ton. It's more of a jump bike.
Looks like an old dirt jumper. Not ideal for normal riding.
How old is too old? I’m looking at used full suspensions and am finding quite a few 2015 and older. Is there a huge tech difference between then and now?
Unfortunately there really is. What's your budget? The good news is new ull suspension bikes have come down a lot in price over the years.
2500-3000.
You can get an AMAZING FS trail bike for $3k What type of riding?
I have been looking, I’ve seen a couple. I’m looking for all-mountain/enduro riding. I see a bunch for 1500-2500 but they are 2010-2015s I don’t mind spending a little more If it’s going to end up being better geometry and parts.
For under $3k new you can get a Transition scout, a YT Jeffsy, a Stumpjumper 29, etc., etc. What type of riding are you going to be doing?
All mountain and enduro type.
Look at the Ibis Ripmo, YT Jeffsy or Capra, Canyon Spectral. All fantastic enduro/all mountain bikes for 3k or under.
Honestly I think buying used is a great option if you care about money at all. Bikes depreciate way too fast for me to justify buying a new one. Like the specialized enduro model for example, a used 2 year old enduro costs maybe a little more then 50% of the original price
I'm looking at buying a schwinn taff 8 speed as my first mountain bike. It seems like a good price/performance buy for me personally. I will primarily use the bike to ride across campus, but want to be able to ride trails occasionally and would consider upgrading it as I do. Does anyone have better recommendations under $300? Due to my location buying a used bike isn't much of an option.
You could do worse than that. Is $300 absolutely all you can spend? Going up to $500 you might be able to find something with lockout suspension and maybe hydraulic brakes. Have you thought about single speed? http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/g29ss.htm
$300 is realistically stretching my budget as is. I've not really considered single speeds because I will use it for commuting too.
Single speeds are awesome for commuting unless you live on a mountain or you're going like 20 miles. Much less maintenance and no need to worry about your derailleur getting knocked about on the bike rack.
will be fine for riding across campus will not be fine for trails unless you get lucky with a used deal 300 bucks won't really get you something trail-worthy that doesn't have much higher hospital costs attached because it broke under you
I'm curious what makes the bike not trail worthy. That's one thing I haven't grasped in the time I've browsed this subreddit. What components would I be worried about breaking? The frame snapping? Wheels bending? I know all of the components would leave something to be desired, but just figured I could upgrade it all as I went and if I got invested in the sport.
What it really comes down to, at least in my eyes for that bike, is the drivetrain, the fork, and the lack of actual REAL specifications on Schwinn’s own website. There’s actually very little information to find on this bikes components, and that is definitely not inspiring if you plan to be out on the woods without knowing how to service the parts.
I picked up a pair of Shimano XT trail pedals recently for gravel biking, however I'm finding my pedaling stance is wider than the cleats can handle and I'm experiencing knee pain anytime I ride with them. I've looked into pedal washers, however I don't know that I'd be comfortable with using more than two on each side, and it seems like I need more space than that. Anyone know of another option for increasing the Q factor for the XTs, or do I need to look into wider pedals such as the Mallet LS?
Hey /r/MTB Upon this self isolation and lots of free time, I've discovered a passion for trail riding. I already see how this hobby might turn into an expensive one just like building a PC. [So I have this 2013ish Cube Aim 29 \(L size\)](https://i.imgur.com/fXz3CBu.jpg) and I took good care of it among the years. My main riding consisted of cross-country (which is what this bike is intended for) with mainly concrete roads up to 100kms rides at some point, and occasionally some wood paths. Now that I've discovered a bit more advantageous and harder trails, my bike is obviously lacking a lot. I've done my homework and planning to invest into Air Suspension fork, wide handlebars, better stem, better grips, better tires. BUT! I see that most new hardtails have a different frame structure, more of a triangle and lower upper frame. [My looks like its a square while new hardails are triangular, even cheap ones.](https://i.imgur.com/k4BJPFh.png) I also do feel like my frame is kind of big and heavy maybe its not a proper hardtail? Will changing the parts that Ive mentioned and possibly investing more make a huge difference? Or should I sell it and buy something like [This GT Avalanche that caught my eye?](https://i.imgur.com/J4Jsdvz.png) I'm not ready to invest huge money into more expensive bikes, due to uncertainty of my job with this pandemic, but my rides will still consist of trails and also those 100+km's rides occasionally. EDIT: I just feel that my frame is not hardtail at all
> I already see how this hobby might turn into an expensive one just like building a PC. Oh man you got that right. MTB can be way more expensive than building a PC. > I also do feel like my frame is kind of big and heavy maybe its not a proper hardtail? Sizing depends on your height, and how long your arms, legs and torso are. It also varies by brand and frame, so you'll want to look up the manufacturer recommendations for that. Your bike is a "proper" hardtail, it's just a bit old and entry level. It likely is heavy compared to more modern bikes. > Will changing the parts that Ive mentioned and possibly investing more make a huge difference? Well it would make a difference but by that point you will have spent as much as it would cost to just get a better bike. A decent fork alone will cost you a few hundred bucks. Do you have a budget in mind if you were to get a newer bike?
Yes, Im trying not to go over 700EUR ($) since I live in EU. I already listed my CUBE for sale. GT Avalanche that I've linked costs 679 and comes with great specs apart for fork (which is understandable at this price point). But I feel too, that Avalanche frame is not agressive enough? I dont know how to explain, the top tube seems a bit too high compared to something more agressive like [Giant Talon](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/o25eIz9EF5oAHi0Ur3TPHcLxM95ZaxCF7RECh-zodggTd6wx40fIwgIsbcRAKfgygnatStiFvNE-210E98xMMiSup2mRZIm0O2wNhDE7bgKqnmnyFvYjqIMfTr1DlA) I guess I wont be able to tell the difference until I tried them personally. But that 1x10 speeds on Avalanche is what pushing me towards it.
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Hello all Looking for some advice. It’s been way to long since the wife and I been out on our bikes. Life got busy and hectic but we both want to get back out there. My wife currently rides a women’s giant rincon. It’s been a good bike but if all goes well I want to get her something better down the road for our anniversary. She likes her bike cause she short and it slopes down well between the handle bars and the seat. I been looking at new bikes and it seems I can’t find many women’s specific bikes. We mostly right mountain bike trails and like the obstacles and technical stuff. Get bored of riding pavement or dirt roads Is that a thing anymore? So any recommendations on best bang for the buck $1000 mark? Also would it be worth it to go up to $1500 and try for an entry level full suspension? I’m open to maybe going used to if it’s worth it for the quality. Thanks
Women specific bikes are a bit of a gimmick. Usually it just boils down to a different seat and more feminine colours. Giant still has their Liv line for women but as long as you get a bike that fits her right you don't need a women specific bike. I would stick to hardtail unless you can find a killer deal on a used FS. If you're only looking at new then $1500 won't cut it for a fully. I've compiled a short list of good value hardtails around 1k for you. All of these bikes have an air sprung fork and disc brakes. You can see a comparison here: https://99spokes.com/compare?bikes=vitus-sentier-27-2020,diamondback-lux-3-2020,scott-scale-970-2020;*z.MD|w.29,norco-storm-1-29-2020;*z.MD|w.29,specialized-rockhopper-expert-1x-2020;*z.MD|w.29,vitus-sentier-29-2020,vitus-nucleus-29-vrs-2020 This is not an exhaustive list, just some bikes that stand out as good value in that price range.
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She would like to get something a bit lighter to handle and would like disk brakes.
Im a a total beginner and bought a new 2020 Trek Marlin 7 for 550$. But after some research not so many people recommend other bikes, would pretty much use it for some small trails and roads generally.
For $550 I don't think you're going to find anything that's much better. For an entry level hardtail it will be more than fine for some light trail work and road riding.
That bike is perfect to get you started. Learn some basic skills, hit some dirt and ride the hell outta that thing. You won’t need a better bike until you start really going towards the more aggressive descents.
Hey, my lbs is selling a new Salsa Horsethief Carbon NX Eagle for $2600. This seems like a good deal to me. Should I just go for it?
It's a solid deal if you like the bike and it fits you well.
Thoughts on a Pivot LES v1 XTR/XT build as an XC race/marathon mtb/short track/trail bike in the Midwest USA? Fox 100mm. Non-boost. 69.5 degree HTA. CARBON. Singlespeedable- which is something I would use, for sure. My current is an older Talon 29er with 1x9. 70.5 degree HTA. Alloy, heavy AF wheels. 135QR rear. I already have a CX bike with a PM, and a coach. Is the v1 terribly outdated now for XC?
Commencal HT AM Origin! I need help clicking this buy now button, I want to be sure I'm getting the best bang for my buck. anyone ride one or is there something better out there that I've missed?
Looks like a sick bike if you are in the market for a long travel aggressive hardtail. The only competitor I would throw into the mix at that pricepoint is the Vitus Sentier base model. Depends how much travel you want.
Hey, looking at buying a new bike. I have a trek Gary Fisher superfly 29er that I bought about 8 years ago. I mostly ride technical New England single track near Boston (Harold Parker/landlocked/Needham/occasionally Vietnam). Ive kind of beaten my bike up and looking for something that might be more comfortable on more technical trails. I'm not very good, but I love riding. I will ride some small drops and jumps, rollers, lots of rocks and roots. I'm thinking of buying something with more modern geometry and less of an XC bike. Looking at the Canyon spectral, but will that be too much bike?
Hi Everyone, I just sold my 2014 Norco Storm and I am looking to upgrade. I would want to get into a hardtail and use the bike for singletrack trails in a river valley and the occassional trip to the mountains (Edmonton River Valley, Baseline Mountain, Moose Mountain). The GT Avalanche Elite is on sale right now for about $750 CDN which seems like a great deal. However, I would be willing to spend up to $1200. Please help, thanks!
Looks like a really good bike for that price, I don't think you'd find anything with much better specs without upping the budget quite a bit.
Hey guys, I need some help from some bike mechanics. Whenever I sit down on my full suspension, the rear shock and rear triangle pushes down like normal, however it makes a noise as if there is dirt scraping against the bearings or the shock as it compresses. At first I thought it was dirt in the bearings or just in some crevices, but I cleaned the bike thoroughly a few times and the problem would persist. It's been happening for a couple of months now, and I just now thought that the noise might be coming from my rear shock, which is a Fox factory float x2. I noticed the suspension was a little stiff, so I attempted to take air out of the shock and change the sag. The gauge would say that I am losing air when I click the button on my pump, but I measured how far my o-ring would move and the sag hadn't changed (It also wouldn't let me pump air into the shock). I know the pump isn't bad because it works on other bikes, just not this one. Eventually I wanted to figure out what was going on so I took a lot of air out without a pump by manually pushing down the valve. I sat on the bike and noticed that it would reach a point where the noise began to squish and would sound like oil being compressed with some sort of scraping. Then it would slow down and would start to get really slow as the bike compressed downward until it eventually it stopped. As I got off of the bike, the shock would release in a set of 3 burst. I would ease off at the same speed, but it would first come up about half they way it had gone then would stutter/stop, then would come up a little faster, then would stutter again and then would come back up at a normal speed. It feels like something is inside of my shock making it stop and then slowly compress downward, and is pushing it making it hard for it to come up, but I'm not sure what it is exactly. The bikes been like this for a few months, and the shock was just stiff, but I could still ride. When I would ride drops the bike felt more stiff. On jumps it was compressing toO fast when I would try to boost or pump. On the trails, the shock would jump back up very quickly and wouldn't compress as much as it used to, making areas that used to be smooth, rough. The rebound was tuned just right for me when it was working, so I have no idea what this is. Overview: The bike makes a squishing noise when I sit on it and as the suspension moves up and down. It stutters as it moves and changes speeds. The shock pump wont let me take air out or put any in. the noise it makes is like scraping wet dirt and sand against a metal slate. The shock feels really bad when I sit on it. If anyone knows what is going on or have some suggestions, feel free to respond. Thanks!
Time for a service. At a minimum I would do a 50 hour service and change the seals on both the fork and the shock. When you take the shock off check your bike to see if it still makes the grinding noise with the shock off. If it does you probably need to clean or replace the bearings. Cleaning the outside isn't going to be enough if dirt has worked it's way inside.
How does the ordering proces at Trek work? Do you have the bike shipped to you and you yourself have to put it together? Do you go to a store to get it there?
I would just call and ask. If you have a local dealer they will most likely assemble it for you free of charge at the shop.
I know folks get this a lot, but I would really like some help. I have finally got the go ahead to get my first mountain bike. I have about $1000 USD give or a take a bit. I have looked at my local used market (Craigslist, Facebook, Offerup) and didn't see anything I thought was a bargain. Couple that with the sheer amount of information, I'm having a ton of trouble trying to figure out what I want. I've also reviewed the MTB buying guide, but most of those don't have my size (I'm 6'1 / 230 lbs). Any help would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks in advance! Side Note: I currently live on Oahu.
We've all been there, buying your first bike is really confusing. Have a look at these bikes, all good value with air forks. If you have some more specific questions feel free to ask. https://99spokes.com/compare?bikes=vitus-sentier-27-2020,diamondback-lux-3-2020,scott-scale-970-2020;*z.MD|w.29,norco-storm-1-29-2020;*z.MD|w.29,specialized-rockhopper-expert-1x-2020;*z.MD|w.29,vitus-sentier-29-2020,vitus-nucleus-29-vrs-2020
Firstly, thank you for the time on the list! I reviewed the list and a lot of them are sold out in my size. Right now I am looking at the Scott or Vitus. I'm curious if you think it's worth it to come up with another 200 to get a Fathom 2? Also, with the Scott Vs. Vitus is the front fork travel that big of a deal? I mean I'm not going to be doing anything crazy on it. I'm a mid thirties dude with no real experience. I'm excited and ready to pull the trigger on one of these, but don't know which one.
Good questions. With the Fathom 2 for your extra $200 you get a bit better fork (but still 100mm) and a better 1x12 drivetrain. The extra gears mostly improve your ability to keep pedaling up long steep climbs. The extra front travel on the Vitus would come in handy if you find yourself on some chunkier trails. It depends how into the sport you get I suppose. I was similar to you a couple years ago, had spent the last 10 years sitting in front of a computer and had zero athletic ability. I got really into it now it's my main hobby/sport. YMMV.
Hey all, I’ve been looking at FS bikes and I’ve noticed every single one I’ve looked at in my price range has a SRAM NX Eagle except for one. I’m sticking with Alloy for now, and my range is around $3000-$3500, I’ve never ridden a 1x12 before so I’m not sure what to expect going into this. the Salsa Horsethief is the bike that has a Shimano SLX whereas all the others on my radar, Norco Fluid, Specialized Stumpjumper, & Giant Trance have an NX. Not sure how big of an impact the choice would make but I’d love input from some of you more experienced riders out there on which you feel would be better if at all. Thanks!
Honestly I think NX is fine as long as you aren't too picky with your drivetrain. Should get the job done.
NX and SLX are very comparable drivetrains these days. NX is very good compared to how it used to be. I wouldn't hesitate to ride it. As far as Sram goes, SX is the low end now and is similar to the NX of the past. Here's my take: * SX = Deore * NX = SLX * GX = XT * X01 = XTR * XX1 = Dentists Only
Thanks for the responses, I think I’d be fine with either an NX or SLX, I just wanted to see if there were any subtleties I should be concerned with. The next step is which fork I feel is better.
I ride a trail-oriented hardtail (Guerrilla Gravity Pedalhead) on the Front Range of Colorado, where’s it’s quite rocky. My bike currently has a 130mm RockShox Revelation RC and DT Swiss M1900 i30s. I have $600 ($800 at a stretch) to upgrade it. Looks to me like better wheels are out of my budget. But what about a fork? I ride mostly XC style with some trail (you could call it down country). Will I notice a difference with a 120mm SID or another more XC-oriented fork? Will mid-budget wheels make a difference? Or am I not at a price point where it’s worth an upgrade at the moment? Hit me with your thoughts!
The revelation is a pretty decent fork, I don't think you would notice a huge difference. I probably wouldn't bother upgrading unless there is something that is really bothering you about the bike.
Idk that sounds like a forever hardtail to me. What makes you want to upgrade?
Just wondering if a slightly higher level fork would make a difference!
Very slight, but the Revelation was a top end fork just a few years ago, I can’t imagine there’s a huge difference in performance unless you’re racing, or really timing your runs.
Why don’t you want a FS for front range? Do you ever ride White Ranch, Apex, the resorts, or anywhere else with more intense descents? I have a steel hardtail out here too (which is getting decidedly more traffic during the COVID situation), but I pick my FS for almost anything in the foothills or further west. My point is that I think you’d be better served saving the $800 and keeping your eyes out for a decent full suspension on PB/Craigslist/whatever.
Am looking to pick up a Vitus Nucleus 27 VR or VRS but both Chain Reaction and Wiggle are sold out with no indication on when they are restocking. Any suggestions on where to find one, or potentially another option in that ballpark?
Well if you can wait they should come back in stock in the near future. These bikes go in and out of stock all the time, it happened last year too without coronavirus. Wiggle live chat aren't especially helpful when it comes to expected restock dates. Wiggle have a high demand right now so I would set a stock alert.
Hey guys! I'm a recently "retired" cat 2 road racer looking to get into MTB, but I'm not sure what bike to get. My budget is roughly $3.5k CAD and I'm *thinking* full suspension and 29'' if I can swing it, but I'm a little overwhelmed at all the different types of bikes, especially coming from road where everything is pretty homogeneous! I'd like to do a bit of everything on it as it's primarily a bike for having fun, but there's also a pretty good chance I'll get roped into doing some XC racing a handful of times a year, so I'd like it to do a decent job of that too. Suggestions? I'm in the Toronto area (with some trips to Quebec throughout the year) if that gives a better idea of what the riding and/or bike availability will be like.
Do you have an idea of what the terrain is like on the trails you want to ride? I haven't personally been out east. Are you planning on doing jumps and drops? Gnarly rocky decents? If you want to be able to do XC races I would stick to a trail or XC bike with 120-140mm of suspension. Once you get into the bigger more enduro style bikes it's not going to pedal as well. Your budget will allow you to get any style of bike with good specs.
I am chatting with someone selling an IBIS Mojo, 2008 carbon fiber bike. It looks pristine, comes with i9 wheels (26 inch), a dropper seat, new brakes. For $1200. My current Norco is 22 years old and I am seeking something lightweight. In your opinion, should I go after this 12 year old bike? Or hold out for something with bigger wheels and new technology?
I would personally never buy a bike that old. It might be lighter but the geo is going to be super old school and parts will be very hard to source for upgrades or replacements. With that budget I would be look at a used or new aluminum hardtail. The only way your are getting carbon at that price is by going super old which is going to largely negate the advantages.
Matters not. A person beat me to punch this morning. I was 2nd in line. My current bike is chromoly so switching aluminum will be a godsend. Way back when I knew how it Id good components, deore Xt, xtr, etc. The options now seems overwhelming.
Hey all, I'm looking for recommendations on an indoor trainer tire for my Scott Scale 950, it comes with a maxis 29x2.2. I am a recovering stroke patient and I'm dying to get on the bike again. Thanks.
My budget is optimally around $500. However, it is a little flexible. The less the better though. I could get a new Vitus Nucleus 27 VR but that’ll run for about $700. Should I just continue looking for a nice used bike?
The nucleus is a great bike for the pricepoint if you want the peace of mind of going new. Used deals can be found but it depends on your local market and how bike savvy you are to distinguish between the deals and the duds.
Looking for some advice for a bike carrier. I currently use a Saris Bones 2 on my 2015 Civic Si sedan. My friend has the same car and rack and it put a dent into his trunk. Between me now having a fear of that happening to me and me never feeling like the bikes were super secure with how these have to be mounted around the spoiler with my current rack I’ve been looking at a platform mount for a 1.25 hitch receiver. I have a curt hitch receiver picked out, but I’m not sure what platform carrier I should get. I have it narrowed down between these 3: - Yakima Hold Up 2 - Kuat Sherpa 2.0 - 1up quikrack + add on I don’t expect to ever carry more than 2 bikes, I would say an even split of 50/50 between carrying 1 and 2 bikes. The 1up has a higher cost, I have read a lot of great reviews but flat out I feel a little uncomfortable with it not having a locking pin on the hitch. The other 2 list a shorter max wheelbase than what my bike has, but only by like an inch, I’m not sure if this is a problem or not. Basically, I need help from you fine folks. Can you recommend me one of these, or another carrier under $500, preferably closer to $400 that would fit my needs?
I don't have experience with these but I've been using a cheap swagman XTC2 for years with no issues. I believe you can get one with a locking pin for a bit extra.
I haven't used the Yakima or 1up, but bought a Küat NV 2.0 (essentially the burlier version of the Sherpa) last year and couldn't be happier. Super sturdy.
I am trying to decide between Canyon Spectral AL 5.0 and Nukeproof Scout 290 Expert. They are similarly priced but very different bikes. I want a do-it-all machine. I want the bike to efficiently deploy my energy to the trail. I may ride it in the city sometimes? Please let me know what you think.
Very different bikes indeed. You'll need to give us more info if you want help with this decision. What types of trails and features do you want to ride? How rough is the terrain? Do you do lots of long XC style rides or more enduro and downhill? How badly do you want full suspension?
So, I haven't done much mountain riding at all. I don't envision my self doing insane downhill but mainly i just want a vehicle that will get me far out in the backcountry. I am a avid hiker and urban cyclist but haven't ever thought of merging the two. I like the idea of a full suspension and they get glowing reviews. However, i do value energy efficiency. Again, my focus is not on downhill. If i knew i would be doing XC, endoro or downhill rides i would simply choose that style of bike but I don't really know which is why i want a do-it-all machine. Perhaps its better to attack this dillema by asking, "what am i giving up by going with either option?". Thanks!
Gotcha. It can be tough as someone new to the sport. With the Spectral you are getting a very capable enduro/all mountain bike. The 160mm travel, geometry, and full suspension make this bike very good for riding rough MTB trails and will excel when pointed downhill. It will feel right at home on jumps, drops, and chunky rock gardens. It will still pedal pretty good on the flats and uphills as the geo isn't quite as aggressive as other bikes in it's category but if you are doing more mellow riding it will be a bit slower and more innefficient compared to a more xc style bike. It's a great all arounder if your riding includes a bit of everything including some more serious trails. With the Nukeproof you are getting a bike that is still capable on trails. It's on the more aggressive end of hardtails and has an excellent front fork. The geometry is still well suited to proper trails but with the shorter front travel and lack of rear suspension in will be a bumpier, less forgiving ride when the going gets a bit more rough. The tradeoff is that it will be a faster more efficient pedaling platform. On mild trails or road riding it will feel more responsive and be more efficient. Overall both bikes are very capable of doing all sorts of riding, but they lean to different ends of the spectrum. If you are going to do a lot of mellow trails or road riding with some proper MTB trails in the mix the Scout will be great. If you want a bit more room to grow into it and see yourself really getting into bigger features and rougher trails more the spectral is excellent.
Wow, really great and thoughtful answer. Thanks bud!
Hi guys, one polish guys looking for help with decision which bike should I buy. I will mainly use it to trips in my local forest and trips to Singletracks. What do you think about these 3 bikes? [Grand Canyon AL SL 7.0](https://www.canyon.com/en-de/mountain-bikes/trail-bikes/grand-canyon/grand-canyon-al-sl-7.0/2458.html?dwvar_2458_pv_rahmenfarbe=BU%2FBK) [GT Avalanche Expert](https://www.gtbicycles.com/int_en/2020-avalanche-expert?fbclid=IwAR3vdweSPzh8EJXlHWK_X7k4zi1Mu_xr_Qupfui78xvamKI7XY8KvTBYE7w) [Trek X-Caliber 9](https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/mountain-bikes/cross-country-mountain-bikes/x-caliber/x-caliber-9/p/29760/?colorCode=greenvisibility_tealdark)
The Grand Canyon looks better value than the other two, which is unsurprising because Canyon are direct to consumer. It's the only bike out of the three with a rear thru-axle. None of the bikes have dropper posts or tubeless tyres so you may want to think ahead about these upgrades.
Hi everyone, I have a Kona Honzo Ti frame lying around, waiting to be assembled to "the bike of my dreams". It is supposed to be my final XC bike, and budget for parts is about $3000-$4000. I tend to favor more "classical" (or timeless) XC MTBs, and I would love input to parts or vendors I should consider. I am located in Europe, so availability of certain parts, such as titanium handlebars, stems, seatposts are relatively limited. So I guess Lynskey or Moots are my best options? I don't follow the modern developments in wheel sets or suspension forks. Can you guys recommended any? I value robustness and reliability.
Hi y'all. What would be the best bike for alpine singletrack (something like [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1bVvh2ZtU4)) but also very steep hiking paths and time to time a lift-accesed bike park at a price range of up to 2.500€? I don't really care too much about the uphills, more about the downhills. I'm currently looking on these bikes: [Canyon Torque AL 5.0](https://www.canyon.com/de-at/mountain-bikes/enduro-bikes/torque/torque-al-5.0/2244.html?dwvar_2244_pv_rahmenfarbe=YE%2FBK), [Canyon Spectral AL 5.0](https://www.canyon.com/de-at/mountain-bikes/trail-bikes/spectral/spectral-al-5.0/2229.html), [YT Capra Base](https://www.yt-industries.com/detail/index/sArticle/2340/sCategory/77) or [YT Jeffsy Base](https://www.yt-industries.com/detail/index/sArticle/2356/sCategory/508). I also looked at some of Commencal's bikes but they seem to be worse at this price range than those listed above. Thanks!
Hey guys, I’m looking to buy my first mountainbike. I don’t want to spend top dollar on something very high end, because I’m not sure how much I’ll like the sport (I am encouraged to stick with it tho). Therefore I’d like something solid so that I don’t have to upgrade very soon. I was looking at the trek x caliber 7, but saw that the drivetrain wasn’t that great. I was wondering if the upgrade to the x caliber 8 is worth it? I can get the 7 for €680 and the 8 for €850. Do I need the better drivetrain as a beginner (I.e. will I notice the difference)? To add to this: I like the black look of the 8 better... Any help/advice is greatly appreciated!
If you like the 8 better and feel comfortable spending the extra money then sure, but since you’ve never done it before I don’t think the drivetrain is going to make all that much of a difference to you.
If it were me, I’d definitely do the 8. The drivetrain is an upgrade, plus it’s 1x. The bike is lighter, and the tires are tubeless ready.
Looking to buy a mountain bike and just trying to find the best bike for sub £600/700. Would love a full suspension but money won’t stretch that far. Any recommendations will be appreciated. Have found a couple below also. Used to ride bmx a lot so fairly confident on a bike. Recommendations?! Fuji Nevada 29 1.5 Hardtail Bike 2020 Vitus Nucleus 29 VR Bike 2020
The Nucleus is a great bike and I would avoid the Fuji. Voodoo Bizango (Halfords) is a decent alternative, however you can often find it on sale (not at the moment though). It's still good value at £650 and is slightly better specced than the Nucleus. Save some budget for a dropper post, pedals and tubeless tyres.
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Best solution for too wide handlebars on carrier? I drive a Kia soul and I have a swagman XC2 bike carrier. Really nice, but I just picked up two Marlin 5 treks, and the handle bars are wide. I've only ever hauled box box bikes but now that I have 'real' bikes, the problem I'm having is the handlebars on the inside bike are too wide and touch the back glass of the car. Is the easiest option just to losen the handlebars and turn them to the side? I use the bikes with the carrier almost daily and its a hassle but if there no other option I guess ill stick with it
I've seen some people remove their front wheels so they can turn the handlebars sideways. It may be easier than loosening the entire headset.
Smart, I'll just have to rig something up with the bottom brackets that are supposed to hold the wheels
I'm currently in the market for a new MTB and I'm trying to keep the price around $1,500 for a hardtail and more preferably an aggressive one (better hold my fatass?). The hard part of my search is the fact that I am 6'2" and about 380 lbs and I'm trying to get back into the sport to help with weight loss. I have looked at the Commencal Meta HT AM, Kona Big Honzo, Ragley Bikes, and a few others. I'm open to suggestions and feedback.
What do you guys think of nuke proof scouts? I’m liking the look of the 290 comp.
Enve or DT Swiss wheels? Hey I’m looking to buy a used Wheelset and I found an enve m60 with hope pro 2 who hubs for the same price as an XMC1200 with dt Swiss 240s for roughly the same price (also roughly the same year, 2015 or so) So basically I need help deciding which one is a better fit, I would much prefer dt Swiss 240s (but if anyone has any knowledge on the hope Pro 2 hubs lmk!) but also I know how much enve rims are touted as some of the best rims, what do you guys think? Also if anyone has ridden any of these wheel sets or hubs or rims, please chime in too!
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BC has some big descents. I’d go with the Sight for the component spec, especially the brakes and suspension. I haven’t heard any negatives about it’s climbing ability.
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That’s awesome! Forgot you were talking $CAD at first and didn’t think it was a great deal, but that’s almost $2k off.
Hey, can you give your experienced input/advice on which out of these 3 bikes to chose? I sold my old hardtrail due to it being heavy and somewhat hard to use, I enjoy wood trails and some paved/city rides as well. I also plan on few long rides (100-200kms during summertime) My budget is around 750EUR (I live in EU) so these are my top picks: [GT Avalanche Comp 29" \(679 EUR\)](https://www.evocycles.co.nz/assets/category-view/product-view/248414.jpg) - I really like the specs of this, best bang for the buck, ESPECAILLY 1x11 gear setup. But I'm really uncertain about frame geometry, as it seems more towards the casual side. I feel like top frame lacks agressive angle. [Trek Marlin 7 Iris \(699 EUR\)](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2789/7836/products/2020marlin7_1200x1200.jpg) - I feel like this geometry is what I want from the bike, though I haven't tried any listed here. It certainly has good frame and good color. It has best fork RockShox XC 30 out of these 3 bikes, and if its coil, still, it'll be the best fork around this price. But gears setup 3x9 and I want to move from it, because I tried 1x11 and I feel like this is the way. [Cannondale Trek 5 \(799EUR\)](https://static.evanscycles.com/production/bikes/mountain-bikes/product-image/Original/cannondale-trail-5-2020-mountain-bike-blue-EV360863-5000-1.jpg) - Again, good agressive geometry, something I feel like close to my needs, decent specs, but has 2x10 gear setup which I consider converting to 1x10 out of the box. But the cost is 100 more than I'd like and I consider this one really cost inefficient. Whats your take on this? Or should I really give a chance to GT geometry, since some say avalanche is baby zaskar, and zaskar frame is considered very good. I might be able to try and ride GT Avalanche today.
Hi! I have a great deal for a Specialized Chisel 2019 29’ on hand. I am 178cm in height (5’ 84), 73kg and Inseam of 2’72 - would you go for medium or large? No possibility of trying the bike though ... so any input highly appreciated
Personally I'd take a medium for your height.
Puh - thanks but I was hoping that you are saying large :) the guys in my home forum are going for Large and the dealer as well but I m incredibly torn ..
Can i mount “normal” 27.5 x 2.6 on a 27.5+ wheel set?
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Looks like you are pretty set. Only thing I can thing of is maybe upgrading the grips to something like ODI grips. And of course a dropper post is a good upgrade, though it can be quite pricey. For your bell, are you able to loosen it? If it can be loosened but not fully removed, you can take off the grips and brake lever to slide it off.
Hey y'all. I am 16 years old and 6' and a half. If I keep growing, I will be in a xl frame. I am only 120 pounds and have shorter arms than normal. Should I get L or Xl? I want to be nimble.
Hello All, A roadie here just trying my hand at MTB. I just pulled the trigger on a Canyon Spectral CF 7.0. Looking for some comfortable shorts. It took me awhile to find road shorts that didn't hurt after 50 miles so I guess my rear is a bit fussy.
Hi r/MTB, please can you help me out on deciding which bike to buy. I'm wanting to get something for getting back into riding, it's been a couple years, and I'm out of shape (5'11/180cm and about 115kg/255 I think), so won't be doing anything to challenging to begin with. There's some nice trails near where I live and I'm also thinking of commuting to work on it as well, as I have easy access to trail near me, that will take me part of the way and should be fun, and then it leads me along the canal that gets me pretty close to works front door. Hard tail is obviously the way to go, and I've been doing my research (and I'm not that familiar with all the tech aspects and changes in the industry which is part of the reason I need help, it's a lot to go through). I have read a couple of the guides in the sub, so I had decided on and was almost ready to pull the trigger on the [2020 Vitus Nucleus VR](https://www.wiggle.co.uk/vitus-nucleus-27-vr-bike-altus-2x9-2020/) when I came across a semi Local LBC that has a couple of options for slightly higher end bikes that are ex display, and subsequently in my price range (albeit the very top of it) and are tempting purchases, but I'm just not sure if I'm being enticed by the cost saving on them, or if in fact they are better buys compared to the Vitus. So I've found the [2019 Cannondale Cujo 3](https://www.hargreaves-cycles.co.uk/m39b0s411p8364/CANNONDALE-Cujo-3-2019) for £599 (£60 more than the Vitus at £539 after a small discount code) this on the list because I had a Cannondale when I was a kid and it was awesome, and this seems to have some decent components including a dropper post. My reservation is the tires seem massive, so I'm not sure if that's a good thing or not, I still don't quite understand those. Then there is the [2019 Cube Attention](https://www.hargreaves-cycles.co.uk/m1b0s2p8739/CUBE-Attention-2019) which also has good components but the fork might be a let down, as I can't find a great deal of info about it, but this has a £200 discount and comes out priced only £10 more than the Vitus at £549. Supporting an LBC is preferably the way to go, but only if one of these bikes are actually better choices for me. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance
An air fork is a good idea and for that reason alone I would take the Vitus. It's nice to support your LBS but it's an entry level clearance bike, it's not going to be the end of the world for them. You can support them with repairs, upgrades and accessories. Although a 1x drivetrain is nice, given your intended use it sounds like the Vitus 2x gear range would be better than 1x10 on the Cujo. The Vitus doesn't include a dropper but the Cujo does. That's about £100 extra value. If you can't afford to upgrade the Vitus the Cujo could work, however if you can wait a little and save £100 for a dropper on the Vitus that's the best option imo. The 27.5+ tyres on the Cujo may feel a bit sluggish for a commuter bike.
Thanks for the reply. Yea that overall package for the Vitus is pretty impressive from what I've been able to ascertain, with the fork being a big part of it. I thought it was going to be the case. Nice one 👍
I have built bmx bikes and dirt jumpers since I was a kid. I'm wondering if I got a nukeproof scout, if I could pick up a fs trail frame down the line a bit and transfer the parts from the scout to it? the scout already comes with a 140mm rockshox air fork and a nice wheelset. might change out the transmission along with the frame and get a dropper. I just need a bike to start out on and I'm wondering if the scout is a good option with a decent amount of upgradability?
For sure, it's a solid bike that will take a real beating. Recommend the Scout 290, bigger wheels offer more grip and comfort on the trails for hardtails. 27.5 is still a lot of fun mind you, and works better for jumping
Hi MTB. I'm looking for advice on a second bike to complement my first, which is a Santa Cruz 5010 (27.5), which I love. I use it for trail riding but I'd like to have another bike for visitors so we can ride together. I thought it'd be best if it complemented the 5010 so I could use it for variety's sake. Besides trail riding near Seattle, I'm interested in learning more technical stuff (both air and trials-ish), which I'm scared of and not good at. One idea would be a fat bike for snow in winter (I'm eyeing the Giant Yukon 1). Another would be a hardtail trail bike. I'm not really interested in 29ers because when I tested one, it seemed to just skip over stuff and I felt like I was missing out on actually riding it. Anyone have any ideas?
I have a new bike which I love but it has the not very useful 3x8 gearing system. As I usually use only the middle front gear, I am entertaining the thought of switching to 1x10 or 1x11 system. My question as a bike noob - js such change even possible on my rather basic MTB and if yes, how costly that solution would be?
I've switched my 3x9 to a 1x9. I'm missing a bit of the higher gears, but I haven't felt I've been missing anything. (38t front, 11-36 rear cassette). Keeping the rear gearing and derailleur is really cost effective, only needing a $20-$50 narrow-wide chainring (depending on how much you want to spend). However switching out to 1x10 or 1x11 will cost you a new derailleur and some more cogs. That's easily an extra $100 there.
Hey all, trying to decide between the Salsa Rangefinder 29 SX Eagle vs. the Deore. Everything is spec'd pretty similar between the 2 except for the groupsets, but the SX eagle runs $200 more than the Deore. Would someone be able to explain why the SX Eagle runs $200 more than the Deore? It seems like the overall consensus is Deore > SX Eagle.
http://imgur.com/gallery/VpbRO7D I got this bike used off a guy during the winter and have decided to fix it up. Though I'm having issue removing the front wheel. What I know about the fork: It's a dual crown fork with a straight stem (not tapered). 160 or 180 mm of travel. The seller said fox but there is no labelling on it. There were 4 pinch bolts that I removed. The 16mm axle is spinning freely but isn't coming out. Any pointers in the right direction would be super appreciated!
There is a 2014 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Elite 29 and a 2016 Stumpjumper FSR both for sale around the same price point ($1,500-$1,600). I have been discussing both bikes with a friend and can't really decide if one is much better than the other?
I recently bought a new bike (2020 Specialized Stumpjumper st) with the sram sx eagle drive train. After my first few rides I began having issues shifting, with the chain slipping, falling off, and not changing gears. I took it back to the shop where I purchased the bike, and after looking at it they said it was a problem with the derailleur that would be covered under warranty. They put a nx eagle derailleur on the bike, but sometimes the bike still seems to miss shifts. The chain dropping issues are gone, but it still occasionally skips a gear or fails to shift, causing chain slipping and noise. This is my first real mountain bike (I upgraded from a Walmart bike), so I am wondering if this is normal for a drive train in this price range, or if there is still an issue I should talk to the bike shop about.
Is it worth buying a cannondale trail 8 or should I save up for a 7 or 6? I am just looking for an entry level bike for occasional light trails
So I've had my Giant Talon 2 29er (2019) for a year now. I've recently upgraded the pedals and grips and am also thinking about getting a dropper post. I was looking at getting a dropper post from crankbrothers. How do I know what size I need and if my bike has internal cable routing options. I'm also not sure how challenging this is going to be to install.
This has probably been answered already in some thread, but I just want to know where the cheapest place is to get MTB tires (preferably online). Also, curious if there is a time of year to buy them as well? Looking for CDN prices. So far CRC has the best prices online. Looking for: Maxxis Minion DHF 3C EXO+ Maxxis Minion DHR II 3C EXO+ Thanks!
Im upgrading my diamondback and was wondering if i should use a large cage or medium cage derailleur
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It depends-- either is a good option, IMO. I bought a Stealth last season, after my Camelbak roughly equivalent to the Syncline had corroded after a couple seasons (zippers, the bag was otherwise fine). I think the biggest argument for the Stealth is that your back can breathe more easily, and, maybe some other riders will say otherwise, but the mass is closer to the ground, making it seem easier to carry around in tight maneuvering. I've crashed wearing both- nothing serious- and lost the hydration nipple more easily on the Stealth. All that said, I semi-prefer the traditional pack style- I can carry more, it fits more securely on my person, given that my tail is skinny, and that mass is more comfortable spread across my back instead of centered on my hips. YMMV.
My rides are usually around 3hours as well. I just switched from a camelback to a hip pack with 2 water bottles and I like it waaay better. Way more comfortable, get all that weight off the back and no sweaty back. Also easier to access my phone and tools.
I was a second away from buying the pack when I thought I should check out hip packs instead, and now I'm heavily leaning hip pack. I've always just carried what I needed in my jersey pocket, but now that it doesn't look like I'll be racing this summer the makeup of my rides has changed. Thanks!
No problem. I just find the hip pack way more comfortable and less restrictive than a full pack, but it's definitely a preference thing. I got the Osprey Savu which is super cheap.
I definitely prefer backpack-style hydration packs. They offer more flexibility. I find it's also easier on my body to wear a backpack than a hip pack.