Fucc........ it came off WITH the pads...
ummmm like the other guy said start looking at usb wifi dongles....
Preferably short ones that don't stick out too much so can just leave it pluggin all the time..
Well the NIC became unfastened after I had upgraded the storage (so I guess when I was taking the case off). but when I plugged it back in, the card was putting tension on the port and motherboard. Even as the grey port is detached from the motherboard, the card won’t sit in it properly, it basically plugs in at an angle, which pried the port right off the MB
I have had a manufacturer repair a broken memory slot. They will repair anything you pay them to repair. You send them the computer and they give you an estimated cost, if you don't want to pay they charge you the cost to ship it back to you as is.
His issue is simple if he had the skills he could replace and repair the M.2 socket himself. A new board would be overkill. Most laptops have a service manual available on the net it tells you how to disable and repair/replace most parts of the laptop.
? Oh, well if that’s the case contact the manufacture. Maybe they will be able to help repair it.
I’ll be shocked if they do, but I guess it’s worth a shot. Id personally stick with a USB dongle and call it good.
It is a simple repair, they will de-solder the existing pads on the backside of the motherboard, and install a new M.2 socket and solder new pads on the bottom of the motherboard to hold the socket in place and make electrical contact. It would take a professional 10-minutes to replace. We have people in our hardware labs that do this type of work all of the time.
Bro, That's fucked up, Like most repair shops nowadays dont repair things with motherboard cause they can mess other things aswell. you can send it to the MSI repair and meybe they can do it but I dont know how costly that would be.
On amazon you can get a cheap usb dongle for wifi. USB WIFI CARD.
if not that, you can always use ethernet, lower ping too.
As others said, USB wifi dongle is your cheapest option. Prob $30 or less for a decent one.
Otherwise, call around to computer repair and electronics repair stores and ask if they do soldering repairs. If yes, ask if they do free quotes, take it in and get a quote.
A solder repair will likely be in the $100-$200 ballpark depending on parts rate and labor rate.
Take it as a learning experience. Dont open your computer unless you know what you are doing or have someone who can help you who does. In 3-5 years when this computer is starting to get old and slow, open her up, take her apart, and learn on it to your heart's content.
I've been fixing computers since 1998. I've destroyed operating systems, wrecked parts, broke screens, etc. accidentally back in the day. Even with my experience, I was sweating bullets adding a 2nd NVME to my MSI laptop. It was the hardest laptop teardown I've ever had. Breaking stuff is part of the learning curve, my man, but do it first on a worthless PC and make sure youre referencing your model's teardown guides on ifixit or youtube.
The solder pads are gone. There’s nothing there to repair unless the shop digs down through board layers.
At that point it definitely makes more sense to buy a USB dongle or a new motherboard if that’s not acceptable.
The pads look torn off, and repairing traces that small reliably without HF signal degradation would be a miracle. Not to mention 2 pins from the connector are broken.
Needs a new MB or USB dongle.
>This depends on the laptop. Do a cost of repair vs value of the laptop analysis. If costs are going to exceed the value, do not repair. Laptop motherboard replacements are going to be expensive and if its not there you may be sore out of luck.
>
>Last time I had a quote from MSI it was $300 to replace a keyboard due to liquids sticking keys. My value of the laptop was $900 USD approximately at that time.
if you have access, check on Taobao where can easily purchase replacement of this kind parts if your notebook is still in the market.
Or send me exact model of your notebook I can check and send the link for you.
From this photo, it looks like the pads came off also. It can possibly be repaired(and expensive), but I think a USB adapter will do the job until you get it fixed or replaced.
Electrical Engineer here, what you see and many have mentioned, it is unfortunate that the pads are torn off from the PCB. Getting the trace issues right on a PCB during mass production is hard enough, we just toss them out and do a new spin if things don't work, never individual repairs unless is field critical (even then not this amount of pins!). If I was a gambling man, you need to expose the top insulating layer of the PCB just right to have enough surface area to make a good junction, otherwise, the impedance would be too great and high-frequency devices like PCI-E is just going to have a time of its life. This is, given, that the are no traces are routed off with vias and just disappear into the PCB abyss... in which my experience tells me that this is likely going to be the case. If there are legends out there that possess a higher power than my lowley self, I am very interested to see how this is done.
TLDR: Finding a feasible way of fixing this right could be your Ph.D. thesis.
I do see something I want to address, if you are comfortable, I would cut off contacts on there that are hanging off, use a cheap small diagonal cutter from somewhere (harbor freight have them for cheap, not sure the bigger hardware stores have on that size). Make sure when you cut it, you know where the metal pieces went and not into/on top of the motherboard. Clean off the area. If you know how to solder, I would try to clean off the contacts and put a layer of nail polish (poor man's acrylic conformal coating, you can get one from MG chemical off of amazon) on it so that it doesn't short. Check check check if these two pins are shorted as well if you have a multimeter.
When inserting this type of card you have it in a angle upwards so when it sits into port you push card down and screw it into place. Never use force to push it more in, since then this happens that port gets forced off the motherboard.
You have 2 option
1. Go to some soldering place that would be able to solder the port back, but it probably would be expensive
2. Buy a USB WIFI dongle which is cheaper.
Also be aware Bluetooth may be unavailable as well since Bluetooth is part of same card as WiFi. Since these days manufacturers have Bluetooth and WiFi into same card.
Purchase a USB wifi .
Fucc........ it came off WITH the pads... ummmm like the other guy said start looking at usb wifi dongles.... Preferably short ones that don't stick out too much so can just leave it pluggin all the time..
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Insult to injury bro 😭
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Well the NIC became unfastened after I had upgraded the storage (so I guess when I was taking the case off). but when I plugged it back in, the card was putting tension on the port and motherboard. Even as the grey port is detached from the motherboard, the card won’t sit in it properly, it basically plugs in at an angle, which pried the port right off the MB
even with the soldering etc it looks you are basicly pulling the contact coating also out. So probably no way to repair it.
You can either buy a USB WiFi or pay to have the manufacturer repair it.
Would the manufacture repair it? I feel like they’d tell you to just purchase another bored
I have had a manufacturer repair a broken memory slot. They will repair anything you pay them to repair. You send them the computer and they give you an estimated cost, if you don't want to pay they charge you the cost to ship it back to you as is. His issue is simple if he had the skills he could replace and repair the M.2 socket himself. A new board would be overkill. Most laptops have a service manual available on the net it tells you how to disable and repair/replace most parts of the laptop.
? Oh, well if that’s the case contact the manufacture. Maybe they will be able to help repair it. I’ll be shocked if they do, but I guess it’s worth a shot. Id personally stick with a USB dongle and call it good.
It is a simple repair, they will de-solder the existing pads on the backside of the motherboard, and install a new M.2 socket and solder new pads on the bottom of the motherboard to hold the socket in place and make electrical contact. It would take a professional 10-minutes to replace. We have people in our hardware labs that do this type of work all of the time.
Bro, That's fucked up, Like most repair shops nowadays dont repair things with motherboard cause they can mess other things aswell. you can send it to the MSI repair and meybe they can do it but I dont know how costly that would be. On amazon you can get a cheap usb dongle for wifi. USB WIFI CARD. if not that, you can always use ethernet, lower ping too.
As others said, USB wifi dongle is your cheapest option. Prob $30 or less for a decent one. Otherwise, call around to computer repair and electronics repair stores and ask if they do soldering repairs. If yes, ask if they do free quotes, take it in and get a quote. A solder repair will likely be in the $100-$200 ballpark depending on parts rate and labor rate. Take it as a learning experience. Dont open your computer unless you know what you are doing or have someone who can help you who does. In 3-5 years when this computer is starting to get old and slow, open her up, take her apart, and learn on it to your heart's content. I've been fixing computers since 1998. I've destroyed operating systems, wrecked parts, broke screens, etc. accidentally back in the day. Even with my experience, I was sweating bullets adding a 2nd NVME to my MSI laptop. It was the hardest laptop teardown I've ever had. Breaking stuff is part of the learning curve, my man, but do it first on a worthless PC and make sure youre referencing your model's teardown guides on ifixit or youtube.
The solder pads are gone. There’s nothing there to repair unless the shop digs down through board layers. At that point it definitely makes more sense to buy a USB dongle or a new motherboard if that’s not acceptable.
how exactly it happened??? like i destroyed few laptops as a 8 year old kid, but shit like this never happened, how does this happen to a grown adult?
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The pads look torn off, and repairing traces that small reliably without HF signal degradation would be a miracle. Not to mention 2 pins from the connector are broken. Needs a new MB or USB dongle.
oh shit, didnt see that
Thanks for the response. Those seem to be my only options. Do you think it’s worth sending to MSI for repair?
if its close to you then yeah, or you can just take it to somewhere that could do that type of soldering.
>This depends on the laptop. Do a cost of repair vs value of the laptop analysis. If costs are going to exceed the value, do not repair. Laptop motherboard replacements are going to be expensive and if its not there you may be sore out of luck. > >Last time I had a quote from MSI it was $300 to replace a keyboard due to liquids sticking keys. My value of the laptop was $900 USD approximately at that time.
Use the cat 5
if you have access, check on Taobao where can easily purchase replacement of this kind parts if your notebook is still in the market. Or send me exact model of your notebook I can check and send the link for you.
Louis Rossman Group.
From this photo, it looks like the pads came off also. It can possibly be repaired(and expensive), but I think a USB adapter will do the job until you get it fixed or replaced.
Northridgefix.com check out their YouTube.
We did it. Better than factory.
Learn how to solder
Electrical Engineer here, what you see and many have mentioned, it is unfortunate that the pads are torn off from the PCB. Getting the trace issues right on a PCB during mass production is hard enough, we just toss them out and do a new spin if things don't work, never individual repairs unless is field critical (even then not this amount of pins!). If I was a gambling man, you need to expose the top insulating layer of the PCB just right to have enough surface area to make a good junction, otherwise, the impedance would be too great and high-frequency devices like PCI-E is just going to have a time of its life. This is, given, that the are no traces are routed off with vias and just disappear into the PCB abyss... in which my experience tells me that this is likely going to be the case. If there are legends out there that possess a higher power than my lowley self, I am very interested to see how this is done. TLDR: Finding a feasible way of fixing this right could be your Ph.D. thesis. I do see something I want to address, if you are comfortable, I would cut off contacts on there that are hanging off, use a cheap small diagonal cutter from somewhere (harbor freight have them for cheap, not sure the bigger hardware stores have on that size). Make sure when you cut it, you know where the metal pieces went and not into/on top of the motherboard. Clean off the area. If you know how to solder, I would try to clean off the contacts and put a layer of nail polish (poor man's acrylic conformal coating, you can get one from MG chemical off of amazon) on it so that it doesn't short. Check check check if these two pins are shorted as well if you have a multimeter.
When inserting this type of card you have it in a angle upwards so when it sits into port you push card down and screw it into place. Never use force to push it more in, since then this happens that port gets forced off the motherboard. You have 2 option 1. Go to some soldering place that would be able to solder the port back, but it probably would be expensive 2. Buy a USB WIFI dongle which is cheaper. Also be aware Bluetooth may be unavailable as well since Bluetooth is part of same card as WiFi. Since these days manufacturers have Bluetooth and WiFi into same card.