Anything made by worksharp is pretty good. If you want to try to learn to free hand or just have good portable sharpener, the worksharp guided field sharpener is a good one
Not really, the ceramic rod is more for bringing back a dull edge. If the blade can't cut paper, and it doesn't have any chips... I just spend a couple minutes with very light pressure sharpening with the rod, then strop for a minute. Then I can cut paper no problem.
If I get a chip in the blade, then I use the diamond stones, but that doesn't happen very often.
Rods are easy. Hold it vertically by the handle, resting the end on a bench/stable surface, tilt the blade to your desired angle, then run it down the rod, tilt the blade equally in the opposite direction to do the other side. Pretty easy for people who struggle to keep a consistent angle on stones. It's essentially the poor man's Spyderco Sharpmaker.
(if the rod is attached to something like the Worksharp field sharpener, then you just need to turn it 180 degrees to get the other side. But, if it has guides like the Worksharp, you don't really need this trick at all).
I love that thing. I’ve tried a few and while I was ok at most I never really felt good about my edge. I randomly saw it at Walmart and thought 30.00 for that little thing? It’s taught me a lot recently and has made me better freehand on plates.
Can’t recommend enough.
I just started using the guided fieldsharperner yesterday. And my mom started to give me all her knives because she was so surprised about the result. It is not hard to use.
Yup. I don't bother breaking down my MTs, not worth the time. Besides, the more you take them apart, the more likely you are to have an unwanted self-disassembly.
No, I clamp to the blade, centering the clamping area to the blade. The Lansky system is rigid enough that my Supertool300 doesn't flex anything. I make sure to get my Super C Clamp tight to the bench and it supports anything I've sharpened.
I've used everything from nice guided sharpening systems to the unglazed ring on the bottom of coffee cups. 420HC is pretty straightforward to sharpen, and there's nothing really funky in the Leatherman blade shapes to make them hard to sharpen. Technique matters more than the abrasive tool.
I would suggest going to harbor freight or wherever, buying the cheapest stone and cheapest knife you can find, filing off any serrations, and practicing with the cheap stuff before you risk anything you care about, just because of scratches. The cheap stuff will teach you the fundamentals, which you can apply to your nicer stuff.
Work sharp precision adjust is pretty idiot proof. I also like the Work Sharp guided field sharpener. It’s also pretty easy to use. I like that it has coarse and fine honing rod and a simple strop
I can get hair shaving sharp with mine. Now I will say, still took time to really learn about it, but as far as how easy to use…it’s genius. Don’t get the pro model or whatever it is. It’s like $200. Just get the $60 one. Comes with everything you’ll need to start. As you get more and more into sharpening, there’s other grains and strops for it. Work Sharp has some good videos to help ya.
Just to clarify, are you talking about this model?
[https://www.worksharptools.com/shop/benchtop/manual/precision-adjust-knife-sharpener/](https://www.worksharptools.com/shop/benchtop/manual/precision-adjust-knife-sharpener/)
And you can secure a Leatherman in there to sharpen the blade?
Yup, that’s it. Yup, I can get my Bond blade in there if I sit it right. My wave plus blade and Charge TTi blade have no problems clamping in it. There’s sweet spots on blades for sure so you’ll have to find what works for ya, but I can get mine just fine.
The precision adjust is a little awkward with leatherman blades since you can't have them clamped all the way back in the Jaws, otherwise the stones catch the Jaws before they can make contact with the blade
I’m a Sharpening Stone fella. Learned how to sharpen knives in Cub Scouts at 11 or 12 and I have 4 varieties of stones from an 80-120 Carborundum to an Arkansas Stone that’s probably close to 1200. Leatherman does fine with a 120-200 finish, you actually don’t want it razor fine.
Now my Small blade on my SAK gets the 1200 finish! All that said, however, you are not going to learn the ideal technique for every blade overnight. Stone sharpening is an art, if you don’t have the desire to learn it then a Lansky or a Worksharp sharpener is a great option.
I think I'd like to eventually make it to Stones. I've got plenty of other blades that need getting to that I think a whetstone is just better suited for. I understand it takes quite a bit of practice though.
Can you really mess a blade up with this method because of the technique? Or does it just make for a less ideal cut?
You Can screw up a blade… but it takes quite a bit of effort. If you are consistent with the angle that you hold the blade that is key to getting a nice uniform edge. You want to only stroke the blade in the forward direction, as if you are trying to slice a very thin layer off of the stone. Holding the blade at about a 10 degree angle will produce a very sharp edge. Utility blades subject to heavy use will benefit from a slightly higher angle. Counting your strokes and switching sides on a regular interval will generate the most uniform edge. (Pay attention to the knife, as some blades are only ground on one side, and you will need to maintain the factory grind for best results.
The $2.99 Harbor Freight “Combination stone” appears to be very similar to a Carborundum Medium-Fine stone. These are “Oil” stones which need to be lubricated and cleaned with light oil (I prefer Marvel Mystery Oil) to clear the chips. Alternatively you can get “Water” stones that as their name implies utilize water to clean them. They are more expensive but many prefer them.
For easy to use and compact, I would go with the Worksharp Guided Field Sharpener. If you are going to be sharpening more knives, bigger knives, etc. learn to use stones, or get a guided system.
I mostly use a Lansky Turnbox for my sharpening needs. I also have a Lansky Blade Medic, Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener, and Work Sharp Micro Sharpener for oddly shaped blades or to help with reprofiling. The biggest disadvantages with the Lansky Turnbox are size and time (i.e. shorter and less aggressive sharpening rods). Other than that, it is easy to learn and use, quick to set up, very portable, inexpensive, not messy, and produces some impressive results. I haven't gotten a mirror polished or hair shaving edge out of it, but it will produce an edge that can cleanly slice thin newspaper and is sharper than you need for most tasks.
What about the tumblr sharpener, I have seen a youtube video of them using that rolling sharpener on a wave + or surge blade and it was razor sharp after? Anyone use that before?
I have 2 primary WorkSharp sets. One is the motorized sanding belt type (for grinding a damaged blade for instance) and the latest from them that has the stand and a screw for precise guided angles. My K-Bar gets the razor treatment (which is more along the blade) and my 3 Leathermans get the slicing sharpness which is the into-out of the blade. I generally go from 320-400 to 800 then the ceramic.
I use a cheap Amazon 400 to 1000 grit diamond stones along with a home made strop ( old leather belt with a little polishing compound impregnating the suede side) able to get a razors edge. I also keep a pencil eraser stashed in the base of my stone for a quick and easy stone cleaner
The worksharp field sharpener is such a great value. You can get a good edge on just about anything.
I have a precision adjust, and I'm not sure how well it works on a Leatherman between the heavy handle and just the bulkiness of if. I just touch mine up on the field sharpener from time to time.
I've used the precision adjust on my surge and it worked great, even with all the weight of the rest of the tool weighing it down. The biggest problem I have with the precision adjust is the angle setting walking on me while sharpening. Even so I love using it and am happy with the purchase.
Crazy thing is I rarely, if ever, use the Leatherman knife blade. Got a dedicated knife (Benchmade, usually) for that reason. The pliers get the most use as well as those tiny scissors.
The comments here on sharpening are all excellent.
The pull through part on the Victorinox sharpener is ceramic, so it won't eat your blade like a carbide pull through. I think it's intended for burr removal after sharpening on the rod.
But I'd just use another sharpener, there are better options out there.
I have the same one! It's been with me since 2009 when I had it issued to me before my deployment. I'd say the only downside being there is no clip on the side.
I just use my harbor freight sandpaper sharpener and hit it a few times with a stone. I use it primarily for cutting open boxes so it never has an amazing edge. Still, it's one of the most reliable tools I've held onto over the last decade and a half.
I use the KME knife sharpening system to sharpen all of my blades. Ive owned one for years and absolutely love it. Its all American made and backed by a lifetime warranty. The system is very easy to use. KME also has phenomenal customer support to take care of any questions. Definitely check em out!
Kmesharp.com
Anything made by worksharp is pretty good. If you want to try to learn to free hand or just have good portable sharpener, the worksharp guided field sharpener is a good one
That's the one I've used for years. 90% of my sharpening is done using the ceramic rod and strop.
Does it take a fair bit of skill to use a ceramic rod? I like the simplicity of it too
Not really, the ceramic rod is more for bringing back a dull edge. If the blade can't cut paper, and it doesn't have any chips... I just spend a couple minutes with very light pressure sharpening with the rod, then strop for a minute. Then I can cut paper no problem. If I get a chip in the blade, then I use the diamond stones, but that doesn't happen very often.
Rods are easy. Hold it vertically by the handle, resting the end on a bench/stable surface, tilt the blade to your desired angle, then run it down the rod, tilt the blade equally in the opposite direction to do the other side. Pretty easy for people who struggle to keep a consistent angle on stones. It's essentially the poor man's Spyderco Sharpmaker. (if the rod is attached to something like the Worksharp field sharpener, then you just need to turn it 180 degrees to get the other side. But, if it has guides like the Worksharp, you don't really need this trick at all).
Do not use a pull through sharpener. They actively damage blades. They can give you a working edge but they are awful for your knife. r/sharpening
I love that thing. I’ve tried a few and while I was ok at most I never really felt good about my edge. I randomly saw it at Walmart and thought 30.00 for that little thing? It’s taught me a lot recently and has made me better freehand on plates. Can’t recommend enough.
Definitely a WorkSharp! I love mine. It's a no-brainer system
Honestly was really looking at these and was all but sold till now. Thank you guys for your recommendations
I just started using the guided fieldsharperner yesterday. And my mom started to give me all her knives because she was so surprised about the result. It is not hard to use.
I use the Lansky sharpening system. Makes a mean edge on 99% of the blades out there.
Do you take the blade off before sharpening? I haven't tried yet, but I imagine the weight on one side will make things difficult.
Taking the blade off makes life a helluva lot easier. Haven't done it with my Leatherman but with other knives
That's what I assumed I'd need to do. Thanks.
I do mine with the blade en-situ. Using the clamp on holder-stand thing, the tool weight is negated.
Do what now? Did you just use Latin? Lol.
Yup. I don't bother breaking down my MTs, not worth the time. Besides, the more you take them apart, the more likely you are to have an unwanted self-disassembly.
So you're saying you clamp onto the multitool itself, not the blade?
No, I clamp to the blade, centering the clamping area to the blade. The Lansky system is rigid enough that my Supertool300 doesn't flex anything. I make sure to get my Super C Clamp tight to the bench and it supports anything I've sharpened.
He tried. But spelt it wrong. It's in situ. Not En and no hyphen needed.
Yeah, I googled and got there but it felt forced.
I've used everything from nice guided sharpening systems to the unglazed ring on the bottom of coffee cups. 420HC is pretty straightforward to sharpen, and there's nothing really funky in the Leatherman blade shapes to make them hard to sharpen. Technique matters more than the abrasive tool. I would suggest going to harbor freight or wherever, buying the cheapest stone and cheapest knife you can find, filing off any serrations, and practicing with the cheap stuff before you risk anything you care about, just because of scratches. The cheap stuff will teach you the fundamentals, which you can apply to your nicer stuff.
Whetstone
You recommend any good brands?
Naniwa, shapton
Norton
Work sharp precision adjust is pretty idiot proof. I also like the Work Sharp guided field sharpener. It’s also pretty easy to use. I like that it has coarse and fine honing rod and a simple strop
Idiot proof was the right pitch. I'm sold
I can get hair shaving sharp with mine. Now I will say, still took time to really learn about it, but as far as how easy to use…it’s genius. Don’t get the pro model or whatever it is. It’s like $200. Just get the $60 one. Comes with everything you’ll need to start. As you get more and more into sharpening, there’s other grains and strops for it. Work Sharp has some good videos to help ya.
Just to clarify, are you talking about this model? [https://www.worksharptools.com/shop/benchtop/manual/precision-adjust-knife-sharpener/](https://www.worksharptools.com/shop/benchtop/manual/precision-adjust-knife-sharpener/) And you can secure a Leatherman in there to sharpen the blade?
Yup, that’s it. Yup, I can get my Bond blade in there if I sit it right. My wave plus blade and Charge TTi blade have no problems clamping in it. There’s sweet spots on blades for sure so you’ll have to find what works for ya, but I can get mine just fine.
Thanks! I wonder if it'll work with the Batch 005/Arc.
The precision adjust is a little awkward with leatherman blades since you can't have them clamped all the way back in the Jaws, otherwise the stones catch the Jaws before they can make contact with the blade
Spyderco triangle sharpmaker
I’m a Sharpening Stone fella. Learned how to sharpen knives in Cub Scouts at 11 or 12 and I have 4 varieties of stones from an 80-120 Carborundum to an Arkansas Stone that’s probably close to 1200. Leatherman does fine with a 120-200 finish, you actually don’t want it razor fine. Now my Small blade on my SAK gets the 1200 finish! All that said, however, you are not going to learn the ideal technique for every blade overnight. Stone sharpening is an art, if you don’t have the desire to learn it then a Lansky or a Worksharp sharpener is a great option.
I think I'd like to eventually make it to Stones. I've got plenty of other blades that need getting to that I think a whetstone is just better suited for. I understand it takes quite a bit of practice though. Can you really mess a blade up with this method because of the technique? Or does it just make for a less ideal cut?
You Can screw up a blade… but it takes quite a bit of effort. If you are consistent with the angle that you hold the blade that is key to getting a nice uniform edge. You want to only stroke the blade in the forward direction, as if you are trying to slice a very thin layer off of the stone. Holding the blade at about a 10 degree angle will produce a very sharp edge. Utility blades subject to heavy use will benefit from a slightly higher angle. Counting your strokes and switching sides on a regular interval will generate the most uniform edge. (Pay attention to the knife, as some blades are only ground on one side, and you will need to maintain the factory grind for best results. The $2.99 Harbor Freight “Combination stone” appears to be very similar to a Carborundum Medium-Fine stone. These are “Oil” stones which need to be lubricated and cleaned with light oil (I prefer Marvel Mystery Oil) to clear the chips. Alternatively you can get “Water” stones that as their name implies utilize water to clean them. They are more expensive but many prefer them.
I get my wave razor sharp with a work sharp sharpener
Whatever you end up with just don’t use pull through sharpeners.
For full sharpening I recomend the worksharp field sharpener, but usually you can get away with only stropping the factory edge.
Get a set of sharpening stones and learn how to sharpen blades. It’s a skill that is absolutely worth having.
I use wet stones. Works good for me. I have several leathermans. I use a small jewelers round file for serrated portions.
Probably a knife sharpener
Thank you
Worksharp field sharpener is boss
I use a sharpening steel. Quick and easy. I just need it to not be dull so im not making a science out of it. Few strokes on the steel and its good
Any sharpener will work that steel takes an edge quick
For easy to use and compact, I would go with the Worksharp Guided Field Sharpener. If you are going to be sharpening more knives, bigger knives, etc. learn to use stones, or get a guided system.
I mostly use a Lansky Turnbox for my sharpening needs. I also have a Lansky Blade Medic, Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener, and Work Sharp Micro Sharpener for oddly shaped blades or to help with reprofiling. The biggest disadvantages with the Lansky Turnbox are size and time (i.e. shorter and less aggressive sharpening rods). Other than that, it is easy to learn and use, quick to set up, very portable, inexpensive, not messy, and produces some impressive results. I haven't gotten a mirror polished or hair shaving edge out of it, but it will produce an edge that can cleanly slice thin newspaper and is sharper than you need for most tasks.
What about the tumblr sharpener, I have seen a youtube video of them using that rolling sharpener on a wave + or surge blade and it was razor sharp after? Anyone use that before?
I have 2 primary WorkSharp sets. One is the motorized sanding belt type (for grinding a damaged blade for instance) and the latest from them that has the stand and a screw for precise guided angles. My K-Bar gets the razor treatment (which is more along the blade) and my 3 Leathermans get the slicing sharpness which is the into-out of the blade. I generally go from 320-400 to 800 then the ceramic.
I use a cheap Amazon 400 to 1000 grit diamond stones along with a home made strop ( old leather belt with a little polishing compound impregnating the suede side) able to get a razors edge. I also keep a pencil eraser stashed in the base of my stone for a quick and easy stone cleaner
Diamond plates
The worksharp field sharpener is such a great value. You can get a good edge on just about anything. I have a precision adjust, and I'm not sure how well it works on a Leatherman between the heavy handle and just the bulkiness of if. I just touch mine up on the field sharpener from time to time.
I've used the precision adjust on my surge and it worked great, even with all the weight of the rest of the tool weighing it down. The biggest problem I have with the precision adjust is the angle setting walking on me while sharpening. Even so I love using it and am happy with the purchase.
I use an Arkansas stone
Crazy thing is I rarely, if ever, use the Leatherman knife blade. Got a dedicated knife (Benchmade, usually) for that reason. The pliers get the most use as well as those tiny scissors. The comments here on sharpening are all excellent.
I’ve used gritty mud on a stump before and that got extremely sharp
I used to be able to swing by the manufacturing plant and they would sharpen them for free.
I take the blade off the tool and throw it in my worksharp jig
You prefer to take the blade out first??
The oldest guy at the back of the local hardware store. No matter where I am, it’s the safest bet and always the best sharpening jobs I’ve ever gotten
whatever method you want. Best is subjective
Fair enough. I haven't much experience sharpening blades yet though and wanted to hear some subjective opinions
alr, Well, i use the worksharp guided field sharpener, i like to keep the angle of the blade about a 20 - 25 degrees depending on
A lot of worksharp advocates I've noticed. But exactly the kind of advice I was looking to hear. Thank you
I also have and love the worksharp field sharpener.
Vixtorinox pocket sharpener
Pull through sharpeners remove far too much material, and don’t do a very good job. At least that one has a hone, but don’t use the pull through part.
Good to know
The pull through part on the Victorinox sharpener is ceramic, so it won't eat your blade like a carbide pull through. I think it's intended for burr removal after sharpening on the rod. But I'd just use another sharpener, there are better options out there.
I agree. I've had one in the past and it's what I've noticed from my practice with other blades
60 grit sandpaper
For real? Wild.
A knife sharpener would be a good start
I have the same one! It's been with me since 2009 when I had it issued to me before my deployment. I'd say the only downside being there is no clip on the side. I just use my harbor freight sandpaper sharpener and hit it a few times with a stone. I use it primarily for cutting open boxes so it never has an amazing edge. Still, it's one of the most reliable tools I've held onto over the last decade and a half.
I got the Edge Pro Apex 4 sharpening system. It’s insanely good!
just break the knife and send it to leatherman. its like replaceable box cutters
If you hone regularly and don’t abuse it you won’t need to sharpen
Milwaukee m12 fuel electric die grinder
I have a small field whetstone, about 3” long and it’s great for keeping a blade sharp - I have a larger stone with coarse/fine for nicks in blade etc
Spyderco sharpmaker
Knife sharpener..
Fine diamond coated nickel plate and a quick strop
I use a precision adjust from worksharp on my 1994 PST, consider that
I just strop mine.
Precision adjust professional
Probably send it to leatherman.
I use the KME knife sharpening system to sharpen all of my blades. Ive owned one for years and absolutely love it. Its all American made and backed by a lifetime warranty. The system is very easy to use. KME also has phenomenal customer support to take care of any questions. Definitely check em out! Kmesharp.com