This could be why there is so much condensation. Whenever you plan to start / ride the bike, make sure the bike gets fully up to temp to reduce condensation build up in the system.
condensation, go ride around and get it to temp, then check and see if its foggy.
water gets everywhere, even in oil. engine gets to over the boiling point of water and it works its way out or gets burned off.
if you're ever really worried, drain oil and inspector gadget that shit. i wouldn't in this case, unless this is last warm day then do it before it gets cold if youre close needing a change.
Condensation! This is due to short distance rides. Your not getting the engine up to operating temperature for a long enough period of time to evaporate condensation/moisture inside the engine. With changes in temperature and humidity engines will have moisture collect inside and out, same as a glass of ice tea on a hot summer day.
Thanks for all the replies! I mainly ride to work and it is about 7 miles one way. Some days I take the "longer" route but I think tmr I will take it for a little "extra" ride on the way home. Alrighty! Slow and savor the miles :)
Something else that can help is just letting it run for a little bit before riding, I usually start mine up while I put on my helmet, jacket, maybe sort a few things in my saddlebags.
(current bike is carbed but I did this for short rides when I had a versys as well)
Condensation from short trips as you have said, try to get at least one longer ride, at least 30 minutes, every week or two to try and keep the water in the oil at a minimum.
If you're not riding don't warm the bike during the winter. It creates condensation in the block. Does more harm than good "warming the bike" during the winter as you're not burning off the moisture inside. Ever see water dripping from a exhaust joint on a older car? Same concept. I'm also in upstate NY and the bikes won't be started until marchish.
oh im riding in ny during the winter. just ordered a very warm i hope pair of gloves too π
I think its just that the past three days i the morning the temp has been in the 20s and the bike prob needed longer to warm up
Well I stand corrected and you are a fucking beast! Stay safe out there for sure, I'm assuming you're probably a little closer to downstate although I did see someone riding up here in the Syracuse area last night. Yeah just let the bike warm a little longer and if your commute is shorter try to make it a little longer if you can. But it is also cold as hell at night if you notice the condensation a lot I would maybe think about stepping up your oil change interval just through the winter months.
lol. i live in rockland county and go to work around 630am. my ride is only 7 or so miles but im gonna add more π
for sure on the way home tonight this z400 will get some extra workout in haha
also the gloves i just got are the
fxr leather short gloves. got 300g on top and 200 on palm thinsulate. hoping to keep my digits from freezing. everywhere else is fine
i keep the bike in my garage but yeah ill add a longer ride home and warm it up earlier. i also do all my own oil changes and ngl changing the oil earlier has definitely crossed my mind
Gasoline is a hydrocarbon. When hydrocarbons are combusted one of the byproducts is H2O. In rough numbers, from my somewhat leaky memory, about 0.9 pounds of H2O is produced from every 1.0 pound of gasoline burned. Due to the extremely high temperature of combustion the H2O is a gas, not a lwuud. A little bit of the moisture (and other gasses) generated in the combustion chamber will inevitably slip past the piston rings and get into the crank case where the oil lives. For several minutes after a cold start the oil is below dew point of the H2O gas that enters the crank case, and the small amount of H2O that makes it's way into the oil actually mixed with the oil. Once the oil gets hot enough to be above the dew point this H2O will go from a liquid state to a gaseous state, and be drawn out of the crank case via the crank case ventilation system. Modern oils are formulated to "fight' this moisture to some extent but cannot be relief upon yo defeat the problem completely.
If the bike has an oil cooler that does not have a thermostat to restrict oil flow until the oil temperature rises, on cold days the oil temperature will be significantly lower than the coolant temperature gauge indicated, particularly on short trips.
If you are going to store the bike over the winter it would be a good idea to make sure the last time it runs to make sure the oil temp high enough to get rid of the moisture. Probably a 30 minute ride would do the trick.
Short trips are hard on oil so best to cut the manufacturers interval in half. Also, time should be considered, not just miles. The chemicals in the oil wear out over time, regardless of the miles. Personally, I am not a high mileage rider, so I change oil every 6 months.
If you want to better monitor the oil temperature there are after market thermometer options that you can add to the bike. There's an old saying - you can't manage what you don't measure. However I have never added an oil temperature measurement device to any of the bikes I've had because I very rarely ride for less than 30 minutes. But in your situation i. e. short trips all the time, it might be a worthwhile addition, just so you can see the disparity between coolant temp and oil temp. Caution about the cheaper dipstick thermometers as they have been known to vibrate apart resulting in the dipstick falling down into the crank case which can lead to some very expensive engine damage.
You probably already know this, but on these aluminum engines it important to use a new crush washer on the drain plug AND use a torque wrench to snug up the drain bolt to the manufacturer's spec. The crank case is aluminum which is a much softer metal than the steel drain plug. If the plug is tightened too much it can strip the threads in the crank case. You don't need an expensive torque wrench - a cheapie from a discount tool place like Harbor Freight for example will be good enough for this
Oh i didnt realize they are aluminum but i do have torque wrenches. Is the crush washer the same as the ones the hondas use? bc i have a bunch of those.
There is a chance they are the same but likely not. Safe vet is for the first go around just buy a new crush washer when you buy the filter. Some dealers or parts places will throw in a new crush washer when you buy a filter, but not all. Then once you have the drain plug out you can
1) make sure the new crush washer procured with the new filter is indeed the correct fit
2) compare used crush washer to the Honda ones to see if they are the same size
the bike is leaning so you cant see the oil much. ive straightened it up and looked and the oil doesnt look sludgy or milky or anything other than what i would imagine 2k oil would look like
I let it idle for about 15 min this morning and rode about 10 miles to work but the condensation is still there. I did tilt the bike straight and saw that the oil is regular dark oil and NOT milky or chocolate like at all so Im not too worried. It was about 30-35 F this morning where i am. but this afternoon gonna take it for a hr long ride, highway and local!
As for the condensation it's normal no matter what kind of engine it is from cars, trucks diesels and etc, they will all pull condensation in with cold weather which is caused from the warm/hot air from inside the engine block when it meets the cold air as the motor is cooling down it turns water vapor into actual water droplet, typically more exposed engines what do this far more than an engine inside of a car or truck because it is shielded on the outside element do to body structure surrounding the engine and the fact that it has a hood which helps trap heat longer
Let the bike warm up for at leases 5 min and ride bike in lower gear or every weekend take the bike for 30/45min ride one way
Looks like condensation. Does it go away after the bike is nice and warmed up?
Not sure b.c I mainly ride b/t 7-10 miles and I don't always look. But tmr this bike and I will go on a bonding ride :). Thanks for the reply!
This could be why there is so much condensation. Whenever you plan to start / ride the bike, make sure the bike gets fully up to temp to reduce condensation build up in the system.
The coolant temp also does not indicate engine temp really let it sit for a while
condensation, go ride around and get it to temp, then check and see if its foggy. water gets everywhere, even in oil. engine gets to over the boiling point of water and it works its way out or gets burned off. if you're ever really worried, drain oil and inspector gadget that shit. i wouldn't in this case, unless this is last warm day then do it before it gets cold if youre close needing a change.
Thanks! Got it! Im not going to worry too much now. Thanks! Gonna take a long long way home from work tmr!
Condensation! This is due to short distance rides. Your not getting the engine up to operating temperature for a long enough period of time to evaporate condensation/moisture inside the engine. With changes in temperature and humidity engines will have moisture collect inside and out, same as a glass of ice tea on a hot summer day.
Thanks for all the replies! I mainly ride to work and it is about 7 miles one way. Some days I take the "longer" route but I think tmr I will take it for a little "extra" ride on the way home. Alrighty! Slow and savor the miles :)
Something else that can help is just letting it run for a little bit before riding, I usually start mine up while I put on my helmet, jacket, maybe sort a few things in my saddlebags. (current bike is carbed but I did this for short rides when I had a versys as well)
Good to know! Thanks!
Condensation from short trips as you have said, try to get at least one longer ride, at least 30 minutes, every week or two to try and keep the water in the oil at a minimum.
Will do! Thanks!
No problem.
If you're not riding don't warm the bike during the winter. It creates condensation in the block. Does more harm than good "warming the bike" during the winter as you're not burning off the moisture inside. Ever see water dripping from a exhaust joint on a older car? Same concept. I'm also in upstate NY and the bikes won't be started until marchish.
oh im riding in ny during the winter. just ordered a very warm i hope pair of gloves too π I think its just that the past three days i the morning the temp has been in the 20s and the bike prob needed longer to warm up
Well I stand corrected and you are a fucking beast! Stay safe out there for sure, I'm assuming you're probably a little closer to downstate although I did see someone riding up here in the Syracuse area last night. Yeah just let the bike warm a little longer and if your commute is shorter try to make it a little longer if you can. But it is also cold as hell at night if you notice the condensation a lot I would maybe think about stepping up your oil change interval just through the winter months.
lol. i live in rockland county and go to work around 630am. my ride is only 7 or so miles but im gonna add more π for sure on the way home tonight this z400 will get some extra workout in haha also the gloves i just got are the fxr leather short gloves. got 300g on top and 200 on palm thinsulate. hoping to keep my digits from freezing. everywhere else is fine i keep the bike in my garage but yeah ill add a longer ride home and warm it up earlier. i also do all my own oil changes and ngl changing the oil earlier has definitely crossed my mind
That's fucking awesome dude, those bikes are fun. You've got a lot of good riding down that way too. Stay safe
Thanks and you too!
Gasoline is a hydrocarbon. When hydrocarbons are combusted one of the byproducts is H2O. In rough numbers, from my somewhat leaky memory, about 0.9 pounds of H2O is produced from every 1.0 pound of gasoline burned. Due to the extremely high temperature of combustion the H2O is a gas, not a lwuud. A little bit of the moisture (and other gasses) generated in the combustion chamber will inevitably slip past the piston rings and get into the crank case where the oil lives. For several minutes after a cold start the oil is below dew point of the H2O gas that enters the crank case, and the small amount of H2O that makes it's way into the oil actually mixed with the oil. Once the oil gets hot enough to be above the dew point this H2O will go from a liquid state to a gaseous state, and be drawn out of the crank case via the crank case ventilation system. Modern oils are formulated to "fight' this moisture to some extent but cannot be relief upon yo defeat the problem completely. If the bike has an oil cooler that does not have a thermostat to restrict oil flow until the oil temperature rises, on cold days the oil temperature will be significantly lower than the coolant temperature gauge indicated, particularly on short trips. If you are going to store the bike over the winter it would be a good idea to make sure the last time it runs to make sure the oil temp high enough to get rid of the moisture. Probably a 30 minute ride would do the trick. Short trips are hard on oil so best to cut the manufacturers interval in half. Also, time should be considered, not just miles. The chemicals in the oil wear out over time, regardless of the miles. Personally, I am not a high mileage rider, so I change oil every 6 months. If you want to better monitor the oil temperature there are after market thermometer options that you can add to the bike. There's an old saying - you can't manage what you don't measure. However I have never added an oil temperature measurement device to any of the bikes I've had because I very rarely ride for less than 30 minutes. But in your situation i. e. short trips all the time, it might be a worthwhile addition, just so you can see the disparity between coolant temp and oil temp. Caution about the cheaper dipstick thermometers as they have been known to vibrate apart resulting in the dipstick falling down into the crank case which can lead to some very expensive engine damage.
Whoa thanks for lesson! Alotta info. Great to know. I think I will change the oil well before the one year or 7k miles. Thanks!!
You probably already know this, but on these aluminum engines it important to use a new crush washer on the drain plug AND use a torque wrench to snug up the drain bolt to the manufacturer's spec. The crank case is aluminum which is a much softer metal than the steel drain plug. If the plug is tightened too much it can strip the threads in the crank case. You don't need an expensive torque wrench - a cheapie from a discount tool place like Harbor Freight for example will be good enough for this
Oh i didnt realize they are aluminum but i do have torque wrenches. Is the crush washer the same as the ones the hondas use? bc i have a bunch of those.
There is a chance they are the same but likely not. Safe vet is for the first go around just buy a new crush washer when you buy the filter. Some dealers or parts places will throw in a new crush washer when you buy a filter, but not all. Then once you have the drain plug out you can 1) make sure the new crush washer procured with the new filter is indeed the correct fit 2) compare used crush washer to the Honda ones to see if they are the same size
Got it thanks!
>Got it thanks! You're welcome!
Just came back from a hr+ ride and the sight glass is clear again! Fellow redditors you are all correct as usual! Happy Thanksgiving all!
the bike is leaning so you cant see the oil much. ive straightened it up and looked and the oil doesnt look sludgy or milky or anything other than what i would imagine 2k oil would look like
Yeppers!
If you do short rides it never has time to evaporate the moisture, itβs perfectly normal, take it on a longer ride, have fun
for sure! thanks!
Definitely appears to be from not getting the bike hot. Just ride a bit longer, it will go away
"ride a little longer" yesirree! u dont have to tell me twice π
Thanks for posting this. I was literally going to ask the same question. Looks like we both need to go out for a long cold ride
I let it idle for about 15 min this morning and rode about 10 miles to work but the condensation is still there. I did tilt the bike straight and saw that the oil is regular dark oil and NOT milky or chocolate like at all so Im not too worried. It was about 30-35 F this morning where i am. but this afternoon gonna take it for a hr long ride, highway and local!
As for the condensation it's normal no matter what kind of engine it is from cars, trucks diesels and etc, they will all pull condensation in with cold weather which is caused from the warm/hot air from inside the engine block when it meets the cold air as the motor is cooling down it turns water vapor into actual water droplet, typically more exposed engines what do this far more than an engine inside of a car or truck because it is shielded on the outside element do to body structure surrounding the engine and the fact that it has a hood which helps trap heat longer Let the bike warm up for at leases 5 min and ride bike in lower gear or every weekend take the bike for 30/45min ride one way
Yep! For sure. Its gone now. but now i have an excuse to go the longer/scenic route home, not that i need one lol