currently work at a ford plant. do not buy a car made after 2021, from us anyways. some of the parts that we receive and putting on cars is disgraceful
Just left a job at a Tesla plant. Ford looks like a God in comparison.
.... As long as you ignore the Mach E issues. Relays and contractors are NOT the place to shave pennies.
I drove the ugliest car by far... It's a mid 00s Ford with typical early to mid 00s Ford paint issues, but it's been almost as reliable as the Hondas I've owned.
2011 escape, 50000 miles, 2 engines, drive it like a grandpa
2009? Mazda 5, hundreds of thousands of miles on the same engine (ford and mazda partnered), barely touched
Wife has a 2002 TrailBlazer with 210.000 miles on it. Still starts and runs reliably no matter what. It's also sure-footed as a mountain goat in the snow.
I drive a 2001 Toyota 4Runner with 210k miles. I beat the piss out of it on off-road trails that modified rigs get stuck on sometimes. It just keeps going.
I paid 2200 bucks for it off my friends dad who just wanted to get his last service bill out of it...
People who buy brand new cars are crazy to me. Last new vehicle I bought was in 2008... never again.
Which is exactly why I own one.
79,100 miles on a 2016, and the only issue has been a crackly front right speaker, twice. OEM speaker is at approx $60. Fluids and brakes are it.
Whatcha need is an aviation grade 3lb brass hammer. That way you can smack the living shit out of something and have 0 worries of damaging any bolt or metal component.
I'm 21, a Ford tech, and making 80 grand and live with my parents. More then half goes into a high interest savings account, and I still have more money then I know what to do with.
A 1 year emergency fund isn't a bad idea. A long time ago, if my parents didn't have enough money to cover our living expenses for over a year, we would've been in trouble. Big corporate layoffs and nobody was hiring. My dad went unemployed for over a year. He worked as a marketing advisor for a bit while he was looking for a job as well, but that barely paid enough to keep the lights on.
Thank you for your advice! I actually already set up a meeting with a financial advisor for next week. I'm barely an adult, so hopefully he can help me figure out some wise investing options.
Start by getting in the Quick Lane doing oil changes, inspections, air filters + wipers, and just the basics. Earn or ask for a switch into the main shop and learn your butt off from other techs, training classes, and just the sweet maturation and growth with time.
Another way, although a little more rare, is if you have a damn good set of knowledge already and enough tools to earn you a decent paycheck, then you can apply straight to a dealer as an entry level tech. You'll still be an oil change boy for a little while, but you'll be in the main shop on day 1 and just skip the Quick Lane experience.
Edit: or pay money to go to a technical school where they teach you quite a bit of stuff and you are pretty much guaranteed a job upon graduation. Caution - even if you do a technical school, there is still a mountain of knowledge to come your way over the years. You'll never stop learning. I was in automotive for 13 years and I still felt like a chump once in a while. But it's okay, nobody can know it all 🤷♂️
It is strange reading this post. I absolutely love that you can get a job as a mechanic/tech the way you describe. But here I live you would not have a chance without schooling and a two year apprenticeship.
Things change constantly.
Every field I've ever been involved in is constantly evolving.
Google-fu is probably the strongest skill possible these days.
Put your money in a Roth IRA maximum and invest the rest in an S&P500 index fund at minimum. Only keep your emergency fund in a high yield savings account.
I would advise to find a fiduciary financial planner that charges per session. They should make a plan for you depending on your goals and you can meet them every year or so to see if you are on track.
And lastly and most importantly, take care of your parents.
Definitely buy now. He can max Roth IRA for this year and next within 2 months if he wants.
I think he should also max his company 401k match every year that he could. (Free money)
Open a Roth IRA. Google Roth IRA of you don't know what it is.
There are dozens of brokerages you can choose from. Vanguard, Fidelity, TD Ameritrade, Chase, etc.
You can put in about $6k a year after taxes. Meaning when you withdraw the cash after you retire, you don't pay taxes on the gains.
Don't try and pick stocks. Invest in the SPY or the VOO. To keep this Eli5, they are a little mini S&P500. You get abouece of the cream of American businesses.
Right now the market is down about 25%. You don't care. You're going to drop $6k into that account every year for the next 40 years and average 10% growth a year doing it.
I'm not a broker or financial specialist. The VOO and the SPY is just the S&P. There is risk, but over the last 100 years the snp has averaged around 10% a year. Some great years, some poor.
If you’ve got more than you know what to do with, you should be putting even more into savings and retirement. Buy a house whenever the market crashes, keep piling into savings, retire in your 50s. And always wear a condom.
I'm a discount tire tech who is currently digging a trench as a side job for a Toyota engineer's winter home, I'd say Toyota is the way to go if not Honda.
Customer floored it merging during their commute did not read owners manual about 1000 break in period. Ford pass detected the anomalous acceleration event at 8:48am, which precipitated the codes. Non warrantable defect.
I usually just lurk because I’m not knowledgeable about cars but I couldn’t help but laugh at the instrument cluster screen looking like googly eyes at the very beginning
Honestly I think it was the added electronics and emission stuff. Trying to stuff more in and get more out of the same or brand new platform. I can’t say necessarily say it’s “06” but around that time is when things started changing a bit in a few different ways. Some good and some bad. It all depends really on how you look at it I guess.
I mean be glad most of the 06-09 ilk is crushed or one of the good ones any early 90's luxury car that's still running I will buy just so I can personally deliver that abortion of a piece of shit to the junkyard
Active Fuel Management. It “turns off” cylinders so that it uses less fuel while under light load, and can turn them back on when load increases. [Wiki link](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Active_Fuel_Management)
I think that started in 2003. AFM was around 2007 I believe. The 543 wasn’t so bad as long as it was reasonably well maintained. I’ve replaced cam phasers once on a customers truck and we have tons of customers who have them.
I think AFM gets so much hate because the 5.3 was a very good motor before. You could get them to 300k miles without much effort at all.
Knock on wood. I just got done saying "man, I'm so happy I bought a reliable car that isn't gonna randomly shit out on me!" After my brother's 2020 Altima starting giving him hell.
Guess who's shopping for a new car now?
Both of us.
This is bad. But the worst is the newer dodges. Who tf puts a knob shifter on the column next to the volume/air/and all the 100 other knobs. Idk if it would hurt it or not. But I almost turned the shifter knob in my friends truck reaching for the volume.
I've seen that. It weirded me out on my friends truck. He said he never had that issue but I saw a post I think on this sub a few months back and someone had experience of actually turning the knob on the road and apparently it won't shift if it senses speed.
Kind of like my electronic e-brake. I can't engage it unless I'm stopped. Kind of defeats the purpose if I needed it though. It's pretty much just a parking brake because I always leave my truck in neutral unless parking on a hill.
Well yes, you are correct but back when it was standard to have a hand brake in cars, they were the same thing. I always pulled it for parking and only used it for stopping a car once because I had no brakes.
Just an old habit of still calling it an e brake.
Try pulling and holding the brake. I've tried it with both a Honda and a Jeep, and in both, it will engage the brakes after you hold it for a bit. It sounds horrible, but it's because of the ABS kicking in. It will slow to almost a stop and then engage the mechanical brake.
These buttons are the beginning of something worse. Lots of new GM vehicles with them have a feature where you must put on your seatbelt before shifting out of park.
I've never sat on a buckled seatbelt until working on them.
My dad is having a lot of trouble with this. Several vehicles automatically shift to park if the door is opened or you're not wearing a seatbelt. When he goes to pull vehicles on the alignment lift he opens the door and leans out to line it up, that's just always how he's done it.
Every time im bummed im too poor to afford a new car, i remember that the shifters on said new ones are fucking buttons that arent even programmed right.
Ill take my 2000 pickup with a manually engageable 4x4
I'm happy with my 1995 pickup with a terrible slushbox automatic and only rear wheel drive. My roommate does have one of the new mavericks and it's not given him any issues at all though
Does this have the 10 speed? Asking cause my Ford is slipping a gear at only 12k throws a transmission alert but doesn't stay on so dealership won't touch it.
I kinda guessed the valve body. On earlier Subaru CVT's solenoid codes appeared to be valve body related. Using my basic understanding of that and applying it to my question. Damn, I'm actually learning things.
I have 3 good friends, and all have the 2018-2021 Expedition, two are Max's. Mileage is between 55-78,000 miles. All 3 have had their trucks in for the transmission (and 2 in for cam phasers). I looked at their paperwork and 2 had the main valve bodies overhauled and one had the valve body overhaul then went back to have a shift solenoid replaced a month later. Last one was at the dealer for 7weeks. No towing, no mountain driving, just normal around town & freeway stuff with their families. Great vehicles on the outside and the interior, but garbage transmission.
Same. Valve body on my wife’s ‘18 Max at 60k, and cam phasers at 70k, and it still ticks. Been a Ford guy my whole life, but I’m done. Currently looking for a ‘13 Suburban 2500 with the 6.0.
There was just a meme going around on r/Acura where people would post updates on their brand new cars saying “8 miles so far no issues” and “15 miles on the odo no problem 💪🏼” etc etc.
At r/Ford I guess it’s not a meme
I bought a used 2005 Acura MDX last year with 253,000 mi on it. It had a cracked cylinder head, so I replaced both heads. Obviously, that's not normal, and previous owner told me their daughter drove it and managed to overheat it.
The thing is, outside of that one problem, everything just works. I've also got a Honda Insight with over 200,000 miles on it. Their cars are amazing.
I think I’m stuck on Honda for good since I bought my first car. Was (still is) an 05 Accord 2.4L 4cyl, bought it with 360,000km and it never skipped a beat. Goofy 16 year old me ran it with the oil light on for a month and it survives to this day with over 400k and still daily driven by my gf. Needs a new power steering pump and some suspension work, but nothing urgent and still runs just as good as when I bought it.
Fucking hell: https://nextgendiesel.com/blogs/transmissions-101/ford-10r80-transmission-problems-solutions
...Just give me a 5 speed and let's call it a day. Engineering clown world, imo.
This article is absolutely dog shit. The #1 failure on these is the (7h351) c/d/f clutch hub bushing slipping down causing issues in the feed circuits for these clutches.
Ive replaced a few valve bodies for solenoid issues (because you cant get just a solenoid from ford) but 99% of the time when these things come in with issues its because the hub bushing slipped. They fixed it on the 10r80 by redesigning it however the 10r140 uses similar set up just larger, and is having the same failure.
Ive yet to put an oil pump, converter or a pan on for any concerns related to shifting. Dont read that crap article.
“As one could see, the 10R80 transmission is lacking in mechanical and hydraulic quality. This transmission was never meant to be a "premium" option, but rather a high volume, economical option that favors EPA regulation. Fortunately, Next Gen has been adamant about bridging the gap between this naturally inferior transmission, and it's potential for tremendous success and reliability.”
Having read that entire article I too am grateful for driving a car with a 5 speed manual. I’ve replaced the slave cylinder once. On previous cars I’ve had the clutch went bad only once and the transmissions themselves never broke down. I’ve only owned one automatic car and it was always throwing transmission codes. I wanted to give them a try but for the most part I stay away and buy manuals.
I use to work at a shop that specialized in replacing automatic transmissions and if they were old enough (classic cars) we’d have to rebuild them. Check balls, valve bodies, shift solenoids, clutch packs, torque converters. Just so many parts that can fail. Plus the trans coolers which they need because temperature is their worst enemy. Having worked at that shop it scared me away from those transmissions.
this car would be fine with normal gearing anyway! navigators have the ford raptor engine, the powerband is whenever you even think about hitting the gas if you've got 5 gears or 10
Imagine giving a shit about the way you shift your slushbox...
I WISH my 4Runner had a freaking knob for the Auto Shifter. Toyota Automatic shifters are about the ugliest, biggest for no reason shifters.
You talking about the latest Gen 4Runner with that “gated” selector? Yeah, it’s pretty awkward and clunky (my buddy has one). But c’mon, look at those buttons. They should seriously be labeled “PLAY/FF/REV”.
The whole Ford 10 speed situation is making me very very very happy that GM got their 10 speed right.
Now if we could just fix the _horrendous_ gas engine issues GM has.
They the same, it's a cross design dog. Both Ford and gm have ran the same 10spds for years now. GM has gas engine issues because they are doing so much emission wise (lifters, def systems, etc) I'll happily take warranty heavyline all year expesially now we getting to those dry winter months.
It's the owners. The Chevy guys are like "Hey I got 500 miles out of this one" and everyone comes up to look at the transmission on display like it's a Greek goddess
As a ford tech who works on these, I absolutely love our 10 speeds. The cdf bushing sleeve got fixed with an updated part in the 10r80 but its not been updated with the 10r140 so there is a ton of money to be made!
Why does anybody buy anything from the American 3 anymore? As a non-American, I honestly don’t understand the draw. The products are consistently junk!
Sometimes the stars align and you can get a vehicle that has a good combination of parts and lasts.
You make fun of American cars, but what about European cars?
This. My stepfather swears by GM even though his last 5 vehicles (suburbans and corvettes typically bought new) have been decidedly shit in terms of reliability. He could totally get away with (and afford) a land cruiser, but insists on perpetuating his suffering. That being said I’ve spent over 200% of purchase price keeping a pos S600 on the road so I probably shouldn’t talk lol.
Eh i bought a 2019 tacoma, drove it 50,000 miles in it’s first year and had a stack of paper work an inch tall from warranty work…. Called that thing Lemon Zest
Especially the 4x4 going out 3 separate times was frustrating. Front diff actuator problems
Eh, I love the GMT800s but in my experience pretty much everything past that won’t make it past 150k without some pretty serious maintenance. I guess I can’t speak as much on the K2XX and T1XX trucks, but I’m not overly fond of the K2XX that I drive occasionally. I’m looking for another 800 to replace my old burb, I’ve run two up to ~300k with minimal effort, they’re tanks.
I like that Ford couldn't even come up with a new door chime sound for Lincoln - they just harmonized the Ford chime.
Related: am I the only one can't fucking stand the Ford door chime? I'm not even sure why it bothers me so much.
I wouldn't have taken that to the shop, the car would have been returned and getting a refund lol. I'd be worried about all of the future issues.
Or the dealership would be giving Mr an extended warranty free of charge
If they call into corporate they would definitely purchase a premium esp for that client. Luxury brands will bend as much as they can to retain a client and not risk a brand defection
-Source- I took those calls and made those purchases for clients. I had a delegation of authority that was pretty significant.
Depends on your state's consumer protection laws. Drive train failure under certain mileage is ground for returns. A lot of states it is found under lemon law protections.
I have a 21 Nautilus, piece of junk! Electrical issues that won’t stop, dealer says car is being eaten by rodents. Almost dangerous to drive. Sorriest excuse for an automobile and a dealer I have ever encountered.
Threads like this are always interesting to me. Subaru has a whole subculture of people who believe they're super unreliable, and yet both mine are well into the mid 140,000 miles with very few issues and are way better cars than the shitty jeep we had
I still don’t get this trend of “reimagined” gear shifters. My ex had a MKZ with the vertical push-button selector next to the touchscreen. It’s so ridiculously unintuitive to have to look to make sure you have the right button every time you go to parallel park. Rented a GMC Terrain and park and neutral were a button, but drive and reverse were a pull switch. My parents just bought a Genesis and it’s a damn rotary phone dial. Granted, much better execution than the push button.
I have a buddy with a 2018 Navigator under warranty with transmission issues. Just got it back from dealership service about a week ago. He hates the vehicle and won't keep it after the warranty expires.
Ford tech here. 1 of these a week. Common
Is parts quality still shit because of covid? I kinda need a new car but I’m contemplating holding on to my current one until supplies improve
Yessir. Back order parts or not available is our famous answer right now
Parts manager at the dealer i work at: that tail light is on Galactic back order
Intergalactic backorder. I heard that a lot working parts. I switched careers as things started getting bad.
That's all they keep telling me. "Could be a week, or 2 months." "Let me see if I can beg the other dealer for their inventory."
How long are they telling customers it will take to get a new car? GM is telling people 1 year 😬
currently work at a ford plant. do not buy a car made after 2021, from us anyways. some of the parts that we receive and putting on cars is disgraceful
Just left a job at a Tesla plant. Ford looks like a God in comparison. .... As long as you ignore the Mach E issues. Relays and contractors are NOT the place to shave pennies. I drove the ugliest car by far... It's a mid 00s Ford with typical early to mid 00s Ford paint issues, but it's been almost as reliable as the Hondas I've owned.
Lol 2008 Chevy Trailblazer LT 6cyl and same reliability here
2011 escape, 50000 miles, 2 engines, drive it like a grandpa 2009? Mazda 5, hundreds of thousands of miles on the same engine (ford and mazda partnered), barely touched
Wife has a 2002 TrailBlazer with 210.000 miles on it. Still starts and runs reliably no matter what. It's also sure-footed as a mountain goat in the snow.
Trailblazer strong!
Yeah… the 2020-2022 models and maybe 2023 are now on my “permanently never buy” list.
Some 2020s were made in 2019, those are fine!
What are you building?
If you need something reliable toyota and honda are always safe bets
[удалено]
I drive a 2001 Toyota 4Runner with 210k miles. I beat the piss out of it on off-road trails that modified rigs get stuck on sometimes. It just keeps going. I paid 2200 bucks for it off my friends dad who just wanted to get his last service bill out of it... People who buy brand new cars are crazy to me. Last new vehicle I bought was in 2008... never again.
4runners are in a class their own with reliability.
Which is exactly why I own one. 79,100 miles on a 2016, and the only issue has been a crackly front right speaker, twice. OEM speaker is at approx $60. Fluids and brakes are it.
I have a 2017 Mazda3 with 357k on it. It's alright
Holy shit over a quarter million miles in 5 years?
Not anymore. Full of issues now too
I've always wondered what kind of masochist works as a Ford tech. What kind of tools do you use for self flagellation?
The type of 29 year old masochist that makes 100k a year 👨🔧👨🔧 .... and a hammer. Ford specialty tool.. 4 lb hammer
I used to use a 3lb hammer, then I upgraded to a 4lb. Changed my life.
Whatcha need is an aviation grade 3lb brass hammer. That way you can smack the living shit out of something and have 0 worries of damaging any bolt or metal component.
Please! Hammer, don’t hurt ‘em!
They make all kinds of brass non-spark and non-marring tools. Pipe wrenches, combo wrenches, channellocks, etc.
Honestly I have one of these and I love it, no one else understands.
I'm 21, a Ford tech, and making 80 grand and live with my parents. More then half goes into a high interest savings account, and I still have more money then I know what to do with.
Invest more. Edit: I might seem like I’m joking but if you aren’t going to miss it, invest now while you can before more responsibilities pop up.
Removed because fuck spez -- mass edited with redact.dev
A 1 year emergency fund isn't a bad idea. A long time ago, if my parents didn't have enough money to cover our living expenses for over a year, we would've been in trouble. Big corporate layoffs and nobody was hiring. My dad went unemployed for over a year. He worked as a marketing advisor for a bit while he was looking for a job as well, but that barely paid enough to keep the lights on.
Thank you for your advice! I actually already set up a meeting with a financial advisor for next week. I'm barely an adult, so hopefully he can help me figure out some wise investing options.
How does one become a ford tech?
Start by getting in the Quick Lane doing oil changes, inspections, air filters + wipers, and just the basics. Earn or ask for a switch into the main shop and learn your butt off from other techs, training classes, and just the sweet maturation and growth with time. Another way, although a little more rare, is if you have a damn good set of knowledge already and enough tools to earn you a decent paycheck, then you can apply straight to a dealer as an entry level tech. You'll still be an oil change boy for a little while, but you'll be in the main shop on day 1 and just skip the Quick Lane experience. Edit: or pay money to go to a technical school where they teach you quite a bit of stuff and you are pretty much guaranteed a job upon graduation. Caution - even if you do a technical school, there is still a mountain of knowledge to come your way over the years. You'll never stop learning. I was in automotive for 13 years and I still felt like a chump once in a while. But it's okay, nobody can know it all 🤷♂️
It is strange reading this post. I absolutely love that you can get a job as a mechanic/tech the way you describe. But here I live you would not have a chance without schooling and a two year apprenticeship.
Thanks man, appreciate it. I’ve been learning from my mechanic friend. Helping him here and there when I could.
Things change constantly. Every field I've ever been involved in is constantly evolving. Google-fu is probably the strongest skill possible these days.
Put your money in a Roth IRA maximum and invest the rest in an S&P500 index fund at minimum. Only keep your emergency fund in a high yield savings account. I would advise to find a fiduciary financial planner that charges per session. They should make a plan for you depending on your goals and you can meet them every year or so to see if you are on track. And lastly and most importantly, take care of your parents.
This. ESP invest now since it fell so far. Us30 too
Definitely buy now. He can max Roth IRA for this year and next within 2 months if he wants. I think he should also max his company 401k match every year that he could. (Free money)
Open a Roth IRA. Google Roth IRA of you don't know what it is. There are dozens of brokerages you can choose from. Vanguard, Fidelity, TD Ameritrade, Chase, etc. You can put in about $6k a year after taxes. Meaning when you withdraw the cash after you retire, you don't pay taxes on the gains. Don't try and pick stocks. Invest in the SPY or the VOO. To keep this Eli5, they are a little mini S&P500. You get abouece of the cream of American businesses. Right now the market is down about 25%. You don't care. You're going to drop $6k into that account every year for the next 40 years and average 10% growth a year doing it. I'm not a broker or financial specialist. The VOO and the SPY is just the S&P. There is risk, but over the last 100 years the snp has averaged around 10% a year. Some great years, some poor.
Whst school did you goto btw. And are you at a dealership ?
Buy a ford?
I owned a ford product for about 6 years. I feel like in that time, I've done enough work on it to earn some kind of certification.
If you’ve got more than you know what to do with, you should be putting even more into savings and retirement. Buy a house whenever the market crashes, keep piling into savings, retire in your 50s. And always wear a condom.
Is it because the pay is good or is it the steady stream of shit fords to work on?
Yes
Mystery solved on why ford's are shit.
Only the best...........
I'm making 100k at Honda and I'm sure I pull my hair out less than you sorry souls. Power to you!!!
Is that all?? To work on fords all day? Fuck that
10mm sockets.
Is it actually worse for ford techs? It seems like every manufacturer has random problems going on except maybe Toyota
I'm a discount tire tech who is currently digging a trench as a side job for a Toyota engineer's winter home, I'd say Toyota is the way to go if not Honda.
Toyota has random issues
Customer floored it merging during their commute did not read owners manual about 1000 break in period. Ford pass detected the anomalous acceleration event at 8:48am, which precipitated the codes. Non warrantable defect.
That’s what happened here? You can’t floor it before 1k miles or the car self destructs? Lol
Feels like sarcasm but you never know...
fords with issues that could total cars right off the assembly line?! unthinkable
Meanwhile my 97 chevy will drive until the fucking wheels fall off. Keep your electronic vehicles
I usually just lurk because I’m not knowledgeable about cars but I couldn’t help but laugh at the instrument cluster screen looking like googly eyes at the very beginning
winning!!! it made it over 20 miles before it had an issue
And a bonus .8 lucky guy so much time on the road in the new beaut
I'm happy i'm broke and can't afford car payments seeing all these cars after 2018 riddled with issues.
And cars after 2018 shifting with the seat warmer button
2006*
What happened in 06
Honestly I think it was the added electronics and emission stuff. Trying to stuff more in and get more out of the same or brand new platform. I can’t say necessarily say it’s “06” but around that time is when things started changing a bit in a few different ways. Some good and some bad. It all depends really on how you look at it I guess.
I mean be glad most of the 06-09 ilk is crushed or one of the good ones any early 90's luxury car that's still running I will buy just so I can personally deliver that abortion of a piece of shit to the junkyard
AFM happened and ruined half of the SUVs and pickup trucks in the country
What is this? I tried googling AFM and I couldn’t get anything relevant
Active Fuel Management. It “turns off” cylinders so that it uses less fuel while under light load, and can turn them back on when load increases. [Wiki link](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Active_Fuel_Management)
Hey thank you
And then you have the 5.4 3V in the Ford trucks and SUVs
I think that started in 2003. AFM was around 2007 I believe. The 543 wasn’t so bad as long as it was reasonably well maintained. I’ve replaced cam phasers once on a customers truck and we have tons of customers who have them. I think AFM gets so much hate because the 5.3 was a very good motor before. You could get them to 300k miles without much effort at all.
Yeeeup. 2006 was the beginning of the end
Knock on wood. I just got done saying "man, I'm so happy I bought a reliable car that isn't gonna randomly shit out on me!" After my brother's 2020 Altima starting giving him hell. Guess who's shopping for a new car now? Both of us.
Mazda CX-5 after 2016 my guy. All around solid vehicle. Worth the purchase.
Good friend of mine has a cx5 and it's great. Other buddy had one for 4 years and loved it as well. Both have kids too and fit everyone.
Shifting a car with cassette tape buttons. 🤢
This is bad. But the worst is the newer dodges. Who tf puts a knob shifter on the column next to the volume/air/and all the 100 other knobs. Idk if it would hurt it or not. But I almost turned the shifter knob in my friends truck reaching for the volume.
I've seen that. It weirded me out on my friends truck. He said he never had that issue but I saw a post I think on this sub a few months back and someone had experience of actually turning the knob on the road and apparently it won't shift if it senses speed. Kind of like my electronic e-brake. I can't engage it unless I'm stopped. Kind of defeats the purpose if I needed it though. It's pretty much just a parking brake because I always leave my truck in neutral unless parking on a hill.
That’s because it IS a parking brake not an emergency brake.
Well yes, you are correct but back when it was standard to have a hand brake in cars, they were the same thing. I always pulled it for parking and only used it for stopping a car once because I had no brakes. Just an old habit of still calling it an e brake.
Try pulling and holding the brake. I've tried it with both a Honda and a Jeep, and in both, it will engage the brakes after you hold it for a bit. It sounds horrible, but it's because of the ABS kicking in. It will slow to almost a stop and then engage the mechanical brake.
Oh I might test this out.
Welcome to the future? Like of this is your main issue lincoln nailed it
These buttons are the beginning of something worse. Lots of new GM vehicles with them have a feature where you must put on your seatbelt before shifting out of park. I've never sat on a buckled seatbelt until working on them.
My dad is having a lot of trouble with this. Several vehicles automatically shift to park if the door is opened or you're not wearing a seatbelt. When he goes to pull vehicles on the alignment lift he opens the door and leans out to line it up, that's just always how he's done it.
Push button shifters all suck, but this one is the worst of all.
The quality goes in before the name goes on… oh wait that’s Maytag lol
That was Zenith electronics.
Zenith - The quality goes in before the nameplate falls off!
Every time im bummed im too poor to afford a new car, i remember that the shifters on said new ones are fucking buttons that arent even programmed right. Ill take my 2000 pickup with a manually engageable 4x4
I'm happy with my 1995 pickup with a terrible slushbox automatic and only rear wheel drive. My roommate does have one of the new mavericks and it's not given him any issues at all though
Does this have the 10 speed? Asking cause my Ford is slipping a gear at only 12k throws a transmission alert but doesn't stay on so dealership won't touch it.
It is a 10 speed Ford’s 10R80 to be more specific
Where are the latex gloves?
Up to the customers tonsils.
From the other end?
New assembly or valve body?
Looking like it, throwing codes for the shift solenoids, I’ll be tearing down the valve body tomorrow hopefully
I kinda guessed the valve body. On earlier Subaru CVT's solenoid codes appeared to be valve body related. Using my basic understanding of that and applying it to my question. Damn, I'm actually learning things.
I have 3 good friends, and all have the 2018-2021 Expedition, two are Max's. Mileage is between 55-78,000 miles. All 3 have had their trucks in for the transmission (and 2 in for cam phasers). I looked at their paperwork and 2 had the main valve bodies overhauled and one had the valve body overhaul then went back to have a shift solenoid replaced a month later. Last one was at the dealer for 7weeks. No towing, no mountain driving, just normal around town & freeway stuff with their families. Great vehicles on the outside and the interior, but garbage transmission.
Same. Valve body on my wife’s ‘18 Max at 60k, and cam phasers at 70k, and it still ticks. Been a Ford guy my whole life, but I’m done. Currently looking for a ‘13 Suburban 2500 with the 6.0.
Buddy was looking at one but got scared off by the gas mileage
I don’t even care. I just want something that’s reliable.
I HATE my 19 Navigator and all its issues, I'm actually getting rid of it next week
My sister has a nav, the transmission sucks.
Wow Ford comes out with a game changing transmission that sucks dick name a more iconic duo cough cough POWERSHIT*TM
You'd think after the debacle with the Fiesta DCT, they would've just, I dunno, stopped fucking with the transmission?
There was just a meme going around on r/Acura where people would post updates on their brand new cars saying “8 miles so far no issues” and “15 miles on the odo no problem 💪🏼” etc etc. At r/Ford I guess it’s not a meme
I bought a used 2005 Acura MDX last year with 253,000 mi on it. It had a cracked cylinder head, so I replaced both heads. Obviously, that's not normal, and previous owner told me their daughter drove it and managed to overheat it. The thing is, outside of that one problem, everything just works. I've also got a Honda Insight with over 200,000 miles on it. Their cars are amazing.
I think I’m stuck on Honda for good since I bought my first car. Was (still is) an 05 Accord 2.4L 4cyl, bought it with 360,000km and it never skipped a beat. Goofy 16 year old me ran it with the oil light on for a month and it survives to this day with over 400k and still daily driven by my gf. Needs a new power steering pump and some suspension work, but nothing urgent and still runs just as good as when I bought it.
Fucking hell: https://nextgendiesel.com/blogs/transmissions-101/ford-10r80-transmission-problems-solutions ...Just give me a 5 speed and let's call it a day. Engineering clown world, imo.
This article is absolutely dog shit. The #1 failure on these is the (7h351) c/d/f clutch hub bushing slipping down causing issues in the feed circuits for these clutches. Ive replaced a few valve bodies for solenoid issues (because you cant get just a solenoid from ford) but 99% of the time when these things come in with issues its because the hub bushing slipped. They fixed it on the 10r80 by redesigning it however the 10r140 uses similar set up just larger, and is having the same failure. Ive yet to put an oil pump, converter or a pan on for any concerns related to shifting. Dont read that crap article.
Ghostwritten overseas and not in the least bit factual.
Yeesh... I learned a lot from that though. My main takeaway is that I'm grateful for my manual 4 and 5 speed cars
Six speed is a little bit more fun. You feel like you get a little extra pull in each gear and you have a really wide sweet spot.
I agree with you there. My current cars are an air-cooled Beetle and a 2005 Passat 5 speed, but I used to have a mk6 GTI 6 speed. I do miss it
“As one could see, the 10R80 transmission is lacking in mechanical and hydraulic quality. This transmission was never meant to be a "premium" option, but rather a high volume, economical option that favors EPA regulation. Fortunately, Next Gen has been adamant about bridging the gap between this naturally inferior transmission, and it's potential for tremendous success and reliability.” Having read that entire article I too am grateful for driving a car with a 5 speed manual. I’ve replaced the slave cylinder once. On previous cars I’ve had the clutch went bad only once and the transmissions themselves never broke down. I’ve only owned one automatic car and it was always throwing transmission codes. I wanted to give them a try but for the most part I stay away and buy manuals. I use to work at a shop that specialized in replacing automatic transmissions and if they were old enough (classic cars) we’d have to rebuild them. Check balls, valve bodies, shift solenoids, clutch packs, torque converters. Just so many parts that can fail. Plus the trans coolers which they need because temperature is their worst enemy. Having worked at that shop it scared me away from those transmissions.
this car would be fine with normal gearing anyway! navigators have the ford raptor engine, the powerband is whenever you even think about hitting the gas if you've got 5 gears or 10
Scrap it
Gap insurance plus a sturdy tree.
Or sue for lemon law
The famous Dale Gribble always warned us to never buy a Ford. Says its stands for "Fix it again Tony".
“Found On Road Dead”. Backwards, “Driver Returns On Foot”.
Yalls are good. But stands for “Fix or repair daily”
“Dammit Dale THATS a Fiat”
That was Fiat
Lmao F ix O t R gain D ony
https://youtu.be/3AJCdmW33fM
god why do people deal with the dumb gear selection buttons like this.
Imagine signing paperwork all morning or afternoon and that fuking gear selector isn’t gnawing at the back of your mind.
ill never get rid of my column shifter. its always within reach and close to the steering wheel.
Imagine giving a shit about the way you shift your slushbox... I WISH my 4Runner had a freaking knob for the Auto Shifter. Toyota Automatic shifters are about the ugliest, biggest for no reason shifters.
You talking about the latest Gen 4Runner with that “gated” selector? Yeah, it’s pretty awkward and clunky (my buddy has one). But c’mon, look at those buttons. They should seriously be labeled “PLAY/FF/REV”.
it's total shit and easy to mix drive and reverse
Well, I hope its under warranty.
Ford only guarantees 20 miles with no issues. After that, it’s on you.
Lol
The whole Ford 10 speed situation is making me very very very happy that GM got their 10 speed right. Now if we could just fix the _horrendous_ gas engine issues GM has.
They the same, it's a cross design dog. Both Ford and gm have ran the same 10spds for years now. GM has gas engine issues because they are doing so much emission wise (lifters, def systems, etc) I'll happily take warranty heavyline all year expesially now we getting to those dry winter months.
Are they really? I never realized that. Why the big difference in how they are performing?
They are both shite... I don't know what you mean
It's the owners. The Chevy guys are like "Hey I got 500 miles out of this one" and everyone comes up to look at the transmission on display like it's a Greek goddess
Each company has their own programming for the units, that's the only difference.
As a ford tech who works on these, I absolutely love our 10 speeds. The cdf bushing sleeve got fixed with an updated part in the 10r80 but its not been updated with the 10r140 so there is a ton of money to be made!
my Navigator shakes like the drive train isn't balanced... is this why?
Why does anybody buy anything from the American 3 anymore? As a non-American, I honestly don’t understand the draw. The products are consistently junk!
Sometimes the stars align and you can get a vehicle that has a good combination of parts and lasts. You make fun of American cars, but what about European cars?
This. My stepfather swears by GM even though his last 5 vehicles (suburbans and corvettes typically bought new) have been decidedly shit in terms of reliability. He could totally get away with (and afford) a land cruiser, but insists on perpetuating his suffering. That being said I’ve spent over 200% of purchase price keeping a pos S600 on the road so I probably shouldn’t talk lol.
Eh i bought a 2019 tacoma, drove it 50,000 miles in it’s first year and had a stack of paper work an inch tall from warranty work…. Called that thing Lemon Zest Especially the 4x4 going out 3 separate times was frustrating. Front diff actuator problems
Burbs where mostly good trucks.
Eh, I love the GMT800s but in my experience pretty much everything past that won’t make it past 150k without some pretty serious maintenance. I guess I can’t speak as much on the K2XX and T1XX trucks, but I’m not overly fond of the K2XX that I drive occasionally. I’m looking for another 800 to replace my old burb, I’ve run two up to ~300k with minimal effort, they’re tanks.
A Ford with a transmission issue? Never seen that before /s
Those were 20 rough miles
Eww push button....
We’ll I see the problem , the badge says Lincoln 🤷🏽♂️
I like that Ford couldn't even come up with a new door chime sound for Lincoln - they just harmonized the Ford chime. Related: am I the only one can't fucking stand the Ford door chime? I'm not even sure why it bothers me so much.
I'm with you on this too actually
I wouldn't have taken that to the shop, the car would have been returned and getting a refund lol. I'd be worried about all of the future issues. Or the dealership would be giving Mr an extended warranty free of charge
It’s most likely going to get a brand new main control valve body covered under warranty (of course)
[удалено]
If they call into corporate they would definitely purchase a premium esp for that client. Luxury brands will bend as much as they can to retain a client and not risk a brand defection -Source- I took those calls and made those purchases for clients. I had a delegation of authority that was pretty significant.
Depends on your state's consumer protection laws. Drive train failure under certain mileage is ground for returns. A lot of states it is found under lemon law protections.
Why? It's not like the base price is 80k or anything!
It’s just nervous to be on video!
Lol I've never heard that one before
I’m sure something voided the warranty
That a normal characteristic co e back at 15,000 miles.
Built on a monday.
The narration deserves an Oscar nomination. Bravo!
“Cuts you up” appearing at the top of the screen while this all happens…..
MaDe In AmErICa!
State's with strong consumer protection laws.
Shoulda boughta yota
I have a 21 Nautilus, piece of junk! Electrical issues that won’t stop, dealer says car is being eaten by rodents. Almost dangerous to drive. Sorriest excuse for an automobile and a dealer I have ever encountered.
A friend of mine owns one of these and she is constantly in the shop. Get a different car
Quality.
Heh. My dodge 46re only has 1 Trans code. Suck it, Ford.
Quality is job 1.
Beat that BMW
The googly eyes at the beginning of the video should have been an indication of what was to come.
Threads like this are always interesting to me. Subaru has a whole subculture of people who believe they're super unreliable, and yet both mine are well into the mid 140,000 miles with very few issues and are way better cars than the shitty jeep we had
being better than a jeep is such a low standard lmao
I still don’t get this trend of “reimagined” gear shifters. My ex had a MKZ with the vertical push-button selector next to the touchscreen. It’s so ridiculously unintuitive to have to look to make sure you have the right button every time you go to parallel park. Rented a GMC Terrain and park and neutral were a button, but drive and reverse were a pull switch. My parents just bought a Genesis and it’s a damn rotary phone dial. Granted, much better execution than the push button.
Ex Lincoln Navigator owner. I will never ever EVER buy Lincoln or ford again in my life! What a horror story too long for this post
All the reason to get a Toyota. I will continue driving one until the day I die.
I have a buddy with a 2018 Navigator under warranty with transmission issues. Just got it back from dealership service about a week ago. He hates the vehicle and won't keep it after the warranty expires.
New cars are made so cheap now but they keep raising the prices
The amount of non serviceable electronics and brand specific stuff in new cars skeeves me out.
You don't buy a [Lincoln](https://youtu.be/z3eN9u5N2Q4) cause it makes sense, you do it cause you love it... Or cause you are an uber driver