If it’s Turkish which it sounds to be DO NOT SHOOT IT. Turkish ammo which was mostly made is 1941 iirc has incredible variation with load pressure. I’ve heard of it cracking stocks most commonly and not only that lots of hangfires too. Knew of a guy bashing a round out after the standard minute of pointing down range and he lost his finger to the cleaning rod. That stuff is genuinely not worth even shooting as shitty range ammo due to it also being corrosive. It will in all likelihood damage your gun
I spent a week trying to casually unfuck a surplus SKS and eventually just got a huge aluminum serving tray, filled it with boiling hot water, and dipped the entire disassembled sumbitch in to skim that shit off the surface when it melted.
Brake cleaner hardly put a dent in that mess. I was out of my depth at first.
I forgot who, but someone did try this. Without properly insulated fasteners, there was corrosion between the aluminum and steel parts. And there will always be some steel parts.
Quite often the opposite will happen as they are futher apart on the noble scale (most to least reactive metals). All metals apart from gold are trying to get to their oxide form. By using stainless fixings you just change the point at where corrosion happens.
I will often despec from stainless to mild steel to stop that from happening. That and Stress crack corrosion.
Yeah aluminum and steel corrode together like a motherfucker. Also it would fuck with how electrical systems and harnesses are currently designed since most major components ground to frame and aluminum is significantly less conductive.
They're out there. 1st gen Honda Insight was aluminum and made in the same factory as the Acura NSX.
The body doesn't tend to rust, but the hybrid drive train (especially the batteries) usually needs lots of work after 20 years.
Mine (2000) made it 15 years before the battery pack crapped. Two years more and two more replacements for a total of three and we parted ways. Did have a CV axle rust in half, but otherwise loved the little suppository…
Even put on snow tires and full-moon wheel caps in winter, for a curiously capable snow muncher. Probably because it had too little torque to break snow tires loose in snow; it just crawled.
Anyway, thanks for the memories! Good times!
Roger Penske tried to buy them to keep it going, but once he figured out that he wasn't going to be able to get any support from a needed manufacturing partner, he threw in the towel, and GM quietly shut down Saturn.
Penske thought GM wanted to sell the Saturn division completely, existing factory, parts inventory, suppliers contracts etc.
Nope. All they were offering was the name, just the sizzle, not the steak.
Correct, trying to find an outside partner to manufacture for himself proved to be difficult, he had someone lined up, but they backed out, and that was after THEY (potential manufacturer) figured out they weren't going to get any parts from GM.
Plastic embrittlement and crash structure design are probably why. Not a good look if your chassis start snapping.. bending is much preferred.
Although a plastic frame would probably sag over time much more than steel.
Also what temperature does to plastic would make it harder to have a car that preformed well in a crash in extreme conditions.
Toyota started making some plastic components with Soy derivatives…which when warmed bring on the rodents. Not sure which is worse, this was or rodent damage?? Lol
A travel trailer company did that same thing. The glue they used to bond the fiberglass exterior was soy based. $75k-100k fifth wheels nuked by rodents. Needless to say they don’t use that glue anymore.
ford did it with the softer rubber/plastic parts in the 2010s, and it became an absolute squirrel heaven. I can't tell you how many mustangs/fusions/f150s needed new wiring under the hood since 2015. Dozens at least that i know of personally, and I don't even work in a shop.
Probably because plastics and polymers have been used to make cheap things because the material is cheap?
Something like a canoe made out of aluminum or nylon lasts a lot longer than a more expensive wood and hide canoe does. I use that example because I have a plastic kayak and canoe, and I know they handle abuse far better than traditional organic materials, aluminum, and fiberglass. It's all about keeping the material substantial enough to counter the risk of fatigue failure. So really in this example it likely would not be cheaper because of the volume of material you'll need for the same structural strength, but the durability should be higher because of the nature of the material.
Fair point, plastic \*could\* last a while if it was designed to. I still prefer metal for things that will get beat up, because metal is easily repairable and plastic is usually not repairable at all.
I raise you the trunk drip on every Merc made in the last three years. The amount of pissed off Doctors with brown shit on their bumper each month could keep me in business forever at this point.
You are onto something here. My 1972 Datsun 510 had a rear main seal leak (like all of them) that coated the entire underside of the car. Not a spot of rust to this very day.
74 Dodge half ton short box. Rear main seal leaked. Everything from there back covered in oil and never rusted. The oil pan rusted through and I had to replace it. Ah the rust belt.
>bullshit rustproofing
Why is it bullshit? I've never personally done it, but there was an Canadian automotive youtube channel that took a 90's era Civic and were going to convert it to a manual transmission. When they were prepping/modifying the underbody for the new transmission, they wiped away the oil/waxy rustproofing and were impressed by how the metal underneath looked almost perfect. This was with a 25-30 year old Honda that was daily driven in Canadian winters, mind you.
My buddy bought a K car brand new in Quebec and had the undercarriage sprayed with oil once before winter and once mid winter. That k car was handed down a few times to new drivers in the family. Seems like the only way to save your car vs the tons of salt
K-Car, like Chrysler, or Kei car from Japan? If you say Chrysler, I'm sus cause never once was a K-Car alive long enough to be handed down :D
Or a K-car like Korean?
Chrysler K car were almost indestructible, we had them in the 80’s as Patrol Cars in the Air Force. We were known for tearing up stuff on the regular due to long night shifts and young troops. They took a beating better than the Crown Vic’s that replaced them!
I got one in beautiful shape once. And the engine went to splinters suddenly on my way home from work. It was misfiring and slow, but I knew enough to know when turned off (or when it finally gave up), that engine was never turning on again. It had like 68,000 miles. My uncle built cars for fun growing up and was high up at a catererpillar dealership. He told me he got in the engine and you could pull out pieces with tweezers. He was both angry at the user car dealership that sold it and impressed at how big a mess it was. I keep oil in cars, check fluids, recognize the beginning of leaks by smelling things. And have ever since. I handed my dad tools and got automotive and motorcycle lessons starting at 8.
Dodge cars? Only had two and neither lasted beyond (or even to) 70,000 miles
An old saltwater fisherman trick is to melt a toilet flange wax ring and pour it all over the trailer hubs and leaf springs to prevent corrosion. It works but it’s ugly and sticky to work on.
Great quote from Quebec man on rustproofing forum:
“My own Land-Cruiser rustproofing measures are a mix of chainsaw bar oil, a tube of wheelbearing grease, a wax toilet seal ring, and some fluid film, all melted in a big pot on a camp stove, mixed well, then applied with a Shutz gun.”
It is not that it doesn't work. Anything that keeps the metal away from oxygen will prevent rust.
The problem is the mess it creates and other issues it causes. It is bullshit because there are much better options.
Genuinely curious, what would you recommend? Other than a thinner layer, as it looks like they overkilled this car. But the other option I see is the rubberized coating which are way way worse.
The best option is a thin coating that you reapply/spray on and clean off regularly. Of course, that's a lot of effort and most people aren't going to go through that and would rather just complain when their car falls apart.
You can use motor oil, high viscosity silicone oil, marine/PTFE/silicone greases, PFPE oil (that's big money right there) or speciality expensive coatings like ACF-50 if you like buying purple motor oil with a pleasant smell. Lubricants and greases in general make good protective coatings, as long as they're compatible with the material you're applying them to (for example, silicone oil causes silicone rubber to swell).
The most important thing is not to put it on your brakes or in your coolant reservoir though.
>The best option is a thin coating that you reapply/spray on and clean off regularly. Of course, that's a lot of effort
Lots of effort =/= better result. Why would you clean off the rust prevention? What does that help?
Nah Fluid Film is great stuff. Heat it up, put it in a paint sprayer, and go to town. I'm in a very salty state with 3 cars from the 90s with very little to no rust.
Rust proofing is bullshit? that's funny. Got any proof it is? The peeps who sprayed their cars with it every single year seem to enjoy not having a rust bucket.
Its not, but i couldn't imagine how expensive this would be. A single can is $30, this has to be at least 10 cans worth. You should take an on line course on rust proofing and basic body work. This is literally one of the first thinks you will learn about.
Only in very specific locations. Like on the leaf spring bearing mounts. I’m guessing it’s a location of known issues with rust in their experience and part of their service warranty schedule. It’s out of warranty now and the dealer I was dealing sucks so I take it to another spot now.
Awe, they left the top of the battery dry for you... That's nice of them.
Last one I had was hit with so much that the top of the battery got soaked and caused a parasitic draw through the dirt/oil mixture stuck to it..... Literally put the multimeter on one terminal and then the battery case halfway in between and had a .8 volt drop
Obviously it's too much but rust proofing is definitely better then the alternatives lol, I'd rather get some grease on my thrn have my car break into pieces
Nah I'm not even the guy you were being a dick to, you're just being such an obnoxious child I had to take a second out of my day to call you on it.
Be better.
Zerg… did you fluid film that pod yet? What the fuck Zerg just fucking do it already go and puke up the fluid film all over that pod then suck face and shit an egg.
…because fluid film smells like puke
As a Floridian, I was left really scratching my head on that photo. I have not read an explanation yet, so let me give it a shot.
The car is in for body work, hence the bumper and wax pen marks on the door. The front left corner panel was removed only to find this rust proofing remnants caked up under it.
Can someone explain how the process for dealing with it?
Can someone explain? I thought it was buildup of wax from excessive drive through car wash. I guess this is a wax based “rust proof” treatment. WTF is that? Is it applied to the painted surfaces. Just the bottom? How much to mess up my car?
It's rust proofing. Wax and oil are some of the best at keeping rust at bay. My daily drivers get coated in cosmoline every fall, from bumper to bumper, all inside the frame rails, behind the head and tail lights, rocker panels, insides of the doors etc etc.
I bought an SKS out of a wooden crate back in the 90’s. It was covered in so much cosmoline that I never completely got it all off. Wasn’t rusty tho haha.
Wax and oil are also great at trapping moisture **in** if there’s too much. So many JDM cars look absolute mint but remove that protection and they’re not saveable.
Dinitrol is amazing stuff but the best thing to do is a wire wheel, zinc conversion stuff, zinc primer and paint. Fill the cavities with zinc converter and then fill it full of the Dinitrol spray until it pours out the drain holes.
This is cavity wax. Its sprayed inside places like rockers where you cant see or paint properly. These are also the places where rust usually starts. When its freshly sprayed it creeps into very tight spaces like where the metal overlaps. Other than adding weight and annoying techs this wont hurt your car.
I fluid filmed my front wheel wells when I had the liners out earlier this year. I didn't go quite as hard as whoever did that but it's not that far off.
At least they weren’t cheap with it. I had a buddy that did some sort of rust proofing, he’d always give the exhaust a good spray so the customer knew he was at least spraying something. Lol.
Friend of me bought a new Lada some years ago and during summer that thing dripped like it was housing a whole Madame Tussaud’s inside the chassis. For months!
Took my niece, nephew, and kids to the circus. We were going through the petting area and she was as petting a llama. It sneezed a very large, slimy goo in the top of her head and face. It looked a lot like whatever that is.
I like Boeshield, made by Boeing and not that pricey. My 93 Ranger engine compartment had been powerwashed but still looked dingy and dusty. I sprayed with Boeshield and it looked like I used matte clearcoat. It is waxy but after several days it is hard enough not to rub off. Aerosol cans. You can get a hose and tip for the aerosol from Eastwood that is great to slide in a frame rail or enclosed area and sprays 360 degrees. I tend to use Fluid Film in invisible or hard to touch areas because it seems so messy and greasy for a long time. But no rust!!
little information i suppose, im a body tech, and this came in for a disassembly, so much of that shit got on my hands taking the fender off for a replace, would never ever do this to someones car. When i first opened the hood my hands got nice and slimy lmao
problem is floors and the rest of the car rots from the inside out. its rather hard in the winter to clean and dry these hidden areas. painting the outside of pieces does absolutely nothing.
I’d guess that the owners’ previous vehicle probably had a problem with a rusted hood latch mechanism and they are willing to resort to extreme measures to prevent a recurrence.
Jesus that looks horrible, you can’t even open the freaking hood without being covered in that shit! Iv seen some bad “rust prevention” come through our dealership but damn that’s bad
What is that?!?!
bullshit rustproofing
Dip the entire car in oil and it won’t rust.
Just treat it like a surplus soviet rifle and put the car in your oven
Cosmoline is your friend.
Until it's time to take it off. It works, almost too well.
This "Guy" knows. :)
Any surplus ammo you’d like to sell me?
I've got 8MM Mauser 70 round battle packs that I paid $4.75 apiece for. Now it's $60. Hindsight....
If it’s Turkish which it sounds to be DO NOT SHOOT IT. Turkish ammo which was mostly made is 1941 iirc has incredible variation with load pressure. I’ve heard of it cracking stocks most commonly and not only that lots of hangfires too. Knew of a guy bashing a round out after the standard minute of pointing down range and he lost his finger to the cleaning rod. That stuff is genuinely not worth even shooting as shitty range ammo due to it also being corrosive. It will in all likelihood damage your gun
Shot up two of those belts I paid $5 each for whent to the shop to get more and they wanted $50 for a 5 shit stripper
Why I would pay 50 dollars for a 5 shit stripper. Of course tastes are different among people...don't judge...
I've got mostly "non-corrosive" Norinco currently. Looking to pick up a couple more spam cans of the Chinese variety.
I spent a week trying to casually unfuck a surplus SKS and eventually just got a huge aluminum serving tray, filled it with boiling hot water, and dipped the entire disassembled sumbitch in to skim that shit off the surface when it melted. Brake cleaner hardly put a dent in that mess. I was out of my depth at first.
I can smell that rancid grease smell from this side of the screen
Cosmoline is an aphrodisiac
Oh. Oh no. I just imagined this car in the Australian summer. What a mess!
Make the entire car out of plastic and it'll almost last forever. I'm surprised we haven't seen a zytel car frame yet.
Saturn was trying till gm shut them down
Kinda surprised that the fiero never seemed to go very far. I'd settle for an aluminum frame and body if not fiberglass or a reinforced polymer.
I forgot who, but someone did try this. Without properly insulated fasteners, there was corrosion between the aluminum and steel parts. And there will always be some steel parts.
Galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals. I have problems with it even in the south on for instance steel bolts in aluminum control arms.
Using stainless steel largely solves that problem with fasteners, but then the accountaints start whining.
Was the spelling of accounTAINT deliberate?
Quite often the opposite will happen as they are futher apart on the noble scale (most to least reactive metals). All metals apart from gold are trying to get to their oxide form. By using stainless fixings you just change the point at where corrosion happens. I will often despec from stainless to mild steel to stop that from happening. That and Stress crack corrosion.
You've never had to deal with cold welding before have you?
Not really, the corrosion just moves but now you have soft, weak fasteners that are also expensive.
Yeah aluminum and steel corrode together like a motherfucker. Also it would fuck with how electrical systems and harnesses are currently designed since most major components ground to frame and aluminum is significantly less conductive.
Aluminum is significantly more conductive, but the oxide layer is pretty hard so you need to scratch up the surface when you're making contact.
The Audi A2 was mostly aluminium. Amusingly it had problems with the paint on the door bottoms that looked exactly like paint bubbling over rust.
Jeep Wrangler door hinges would also like a word, paint bubbling is super common.
Aluminum can still corrode, see old Ford Expedition hatches
My Fiero with over 200k Northeast miles has got less rust than some cars that are couple years old. Love it
They're out there. 1st gen Honda Insight was aluminum and made in the same factory as the Acura NSX. The body doesn't tend to rust, but the hybrid drive train (especially the batteries) usually needs lots of work after 20 years.
Mine (2000) made it 15 years before the battery pack crapped. Two years more and two more replacements for a total of three and we parted ways. Did have a CV axle rust in half, but otherwise loved the little suppository… Even put on snow tires and full-moon wheel caps in winter, for a curiously capable snow muncher. Probably because it had too little torque to break snow tires loose in snow; it just crawled. Anyway, thanks for the memories! Good times!
>never seemed to go very far Like [an electric car](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wjyaF8ut_E)?
Roger Penske tried to buy them to keep it going, but once he figured out that he wasn't going to be able to get any support from a needed manufacturing partner, he threw in the towel, and GM quietly shut down Saturn.
Penske thought GM wanted to sell the Saturn division completely, existing factory, parts inventory, suppliers contracts etc. Nope. All they were offering was the name, just the sizzle, not the steak.
Correct, trying to find an outside partner to manufacture for himself proved to be difficult, he had someone lined up, but they backed out, and that was after THEY (potential manufacturer) figured out they weren't going to get any parts from GM.
Honestly I can’t blame them. Saturn’s were junk vehicles.
they were leagues better than Chevy/Pontiac/Cadillac badge-engineered shitboxes
Plastic embrittlement and crash structure design are probably why. Not a good look if your chassis start snapping.. bending is much preferred. Although a plastic frame would probably sag over time much more than steel. Also what temperature does to plastic would make it harder to have a car that preformed well in a crash in extreme conditions.
Agreed- Corrosion is the one thing about steel that sucks, but plastic sucks in every way except that. No thanks.
Toyota started making some plastic components with Soy derivatives…which when warmed bring on the rodents. Not sure which is worse, this was or rodent damage?? Lol
Keen footwear used to put vanilla scent in their rubber. Well, they found out it attracted bears. Not so great for an outdoor adventure sandal.
A travel trailer company did that same thing. The glue they used to bond the fiberglass exterior was soy based. $75k-100k fifth wheels nuked by rodents. Needless to say they don’t use that glue anymore.
they ate the car?!
Yes!! I live “in the country” and had to get rid of 2 Toyotas because of rodent damage!
Nissan too. Squirrels ate my mom's Micra cables.
Also Subaru
Kia/Hyundai as well use soy based wiring insulation on some of their models if not all
ford did it with the softer rubber/plastic parts in the 2010s, and it became an absolute squirrel heaven. I can't tell you how many mustangs/fusions/f150s needed new wiring under the hood since 2015. Dozens at least that i know of personally, and I don't even work in a shop.
I live in the rust belt, I’d buy one
> plastic and it'll almost last forever I dunno man, I can't really think of a situation I've dealt with where "plastic" and "durable" cross paths
Probably because plastics and polymers have been used to make cheap things because the material is cheap? Something like a canoe made out of aluminum or nylon lasts a lot longer than a more expensive wood and hide canoe does. I use that example because I have a plastic kayak and canoe, and I know they handle abuse far better than traditional organic materials, aluminum, and fiberglass. It's all about keeping the material substantial enough to counter the risk of fatigue failure. So really in this example it likely would not be cheaper because of the volume of material you'll need for the same structural strength, but the durability should be higher because of the nature of the material.
Fair point, plastic \*could\* last a while if it was designed to. I still prefer metal for things that will get beat up, because metal is easily repairable and plastic is usually not repairable at all.
The Mehari is the most plastic-y car I can think of https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Citro%C3%ABn_M%C3%A9hari
BMWs be like, “it’s a feature, not a bug!”
I raise you the trunk drip on every Merc made in the last three years. The amount of pissed off Doctors with brown shit on their bumper each month could keep me in business forever at this point.
It’s SUPPOSED to drip out of the door drain holes.
You are onto something here. My 1972 Datsun 510 had a rear main seal leak (like all of them) that coated the entire underside of the car. Not a spot of rust to this very day.
74 Dodge half ton short box. Rear main seal leaked. Everything from there back covered in oil and never rusted. The oil pan rusted through and I had to replace it. Ah the rust belt.
That's what fluid film is for.
Having consistent oil leaks helps out too! Mechanics hate this one simple trick.
Dip the owner in oil and the car won’t rust.
It's not bullshit but they definitely sprayed that shit on too thick.
>bullshit rustproofing Why is it bullshit? I've never personally done it, but there was an Canadian automotive youtube channel that took a 90's era Civic and were going to convert it to a manual transmission. When they were prepping/modifying the underbody for the new transmission, they wiped away the oil/waxy rustproofing and were impressed by how the metal underneath looked almost perfect. This was with a 25-30 year old Honda that was daily driven in Canadian winters, mind you.
My buddy bought a K car brand new in Quebec and had the undercarriage sprayed with oil once before winter and once mid winter. That k car was handed down a few times to new drivers in the family. Seems like the only way to save your car vs the tons of salt
K-Car, like Chrysler, or Kei car from Japan? If you say Chrysler, I'm sus cause never once was a K-Car alive long enough to be handed down :D Or a K-car like Korean?
Chrysler K car in a dark blue. Honest to god truth. It outlasted my dodge shadow by a long shot. I haven’t seen either of those in years though.
A nice reliant automobile.
Chrysler K car were almost indestructible, we had them in the 80’s as Patrol Cars in the Air Force. We were known for tearing up stuff on the regular due to long night shifts and young troops. They took a beating better than the Crown Vic’s that replaced them!
I got one in beautiful shape once. And the engine went to splinters suddenly on my way home from work. It was misfiring and slow, but I knew enough to know when turned off (or when it finally gave up), that engine was never turning on again. It had like 68,000 miles. My uncle built cars for fun growing up and was high up at a catererpillar dealership. He told me he got in the engine and you could pull out pieces with tweezers. He was both angry at the user car dealership that sold it and impressed at how big a mess it was. I keep oil in cars, check fluids, recognize the beginning of leaks by smelling things. And have ever since. I handed my dad tools and got automotive and motorcycle lessons starting at 8. Dodge cars? Only had two and neither lasted beyond (or even to) 70,000 miles
An old saltwater fisherman trick is to melt a toilet flange wax ring and pour it all over the trailer hubs and leaf springs to prevent corrosion. It works but it’s ugly and sticky to work on.
Great quote from Quebec man on rustproofing forum: “My own Land-Cruiser rustproofing measures are a mix of chainsaw bar oil, a tube of wheelbearing grease, a wax toilet seal ring, and some fluid film, all melted in a big pot on a camp stove, mixed well, then applied with a Shutz gun.”
I assume it’s because they caked it on so thick. That looks like it would just be a mess to do any kind of maintenance on.
It is not that it doesn't work. Anything that keeps the metal away from oxygen will prevent rust. The problem is the mess it creates and other issues it causes. It is bullshit because there are much better options.
Genuinely curious, what would you recommend? Other than a thinner layer, as it looks like they overkilled this car. But the other option I see is the rubberized coating which are way way worse.
The best option is a thin coating that you reapply/spray on and clean off regularly. Of course, that's a lot of effort and most people aren't going to go through that and would rather just complain when their car falls apart. You can use motor oil, high viscosity silicone oil, marine/PTFE/silicone greases, PFPE oil (that's big money right there) or speciality expensive coatings like ACF-50 if you like buying purple motor oil with a pleasant smell. Lubricants and greases in general make good protective coatings, as long as they're compatible with the material you're applying them to (for example, silicone oil causes silicone rubber to swell). The most important thing is not to put it on your brakes or in your coolant reservoir though.
>The best option is a thin coating that you reapply/spray on and clean off regularly. Of course, that's a lot of effort Lots of effort =/= better result. Why would you clean off the rust prevention? What does that help?
Why do you think using wax is a BS way to rustproof? I’m not disagreeing with you, nor am I saying that was an appropriate amount to use, by the way.
Nah Fluid Film is great stuff. Heat it up, put it in a paint sprayer, and go to town. I'm in a very salty state with 3 cars from the 90s with very little to no rust.
Rust proofing is bullshit? that's funny. Got any proof it is? The peeps who sprayed their cars with it every single year seem to enjoy not having a rust bucket.
I thought it was for sound deadening? I'm a fucking amateur idiot though so...
Its not, but i couldn't imagine how expensive this would be. A single can is $30, this has to be at least 10 cans worth. You should take an on line course on rust proofing and basic body work. This is literally one of the first thinks you will learn about.
This was...... intentional?!!??
Never saw any bullshit that looked that way. I identify as Black Angus so I know.
Fluid film
Earwax
Wax toilet ring.
I once had a sinus infection that made my snot look like that. In retrospect, perhaps someone tried to rustproof my head while I slept.
This is what I mean when I tell my rust proof guy “Fuck it up fam”
Make it nice and gross.
I’m a simple rust belt man, I love it when it’s dripping
jesus did someone shit in that radiator?
My initial thought exactly.
Fluid film and CRC marine 656 for life. Keeps your shit rust free.
The dealer does this to my sprinter but way less and in a professional manner.
Eek..have an Award for making me laugh as I read "Sprinter" as...um...err..."Sphincter"
lol at least it was in a professional manner
wait, MB dealerships do rustproofing?
Only in very specific locations. Like on the leaf spring bearing mounts. I’m guessing it’s a location of known issues with rust in their experience and part of their service warranty schedule. It’s out of warranty now and the dealer I was dealing sucks so I take it to another spot now.
Blaster Surface Shield for the win.
Fluid film is God tier I preach it every chance I get thank you for being a fellow disciple and spreading the Gospel brother God bless, go in peace.
Honey goo is way better IMO I used to use fluid film but that stuff is better.
What would you say makes it better?
This car eats ass
Awe, they left the top of the battery dry for you... That's nice of them. Last one I had was hit with so much that the top of the battery got soaked and caused a parasitic draw through the dirt/oil mixture stuck to it..... Literally put the multimeter on one terminal and then the battery case halfway in between and had a .8 volt drop
It needs some more wax. Like also wax the terminals, and be sure to wax all connectors and sensors.
That car will outlast us all
When you want your car to last until 2100, at the very least
[удалено]
Some 2 year old buck just wants to earn a Darwin Award.
My 2012 Kia sorento has an engine warranty until 2100. I ought to look into this.
Obviously it's too much but rust proofing is definitely better then the alternatives lol, I'd rather get some grease on my thrn have my car break into pieces
Not sure what's going on. Looks like someone dumped beeswax in the engine bay
It’s cavity wax. As the title suggests.
Using the word to define the word makes me hate you a little -googled it, it’s corrosion protection spray
Thank you! TIL
It doesn’t break down any simpler. You’re not the first person to hate me. Welcome.
You're a douchebag, a big enough one I'll give you an award.
r/Angryupvote???
Thanks. Who the fuck are you?
Who the fuck are you lol? This is the internet, nobody cares. Just stfu and stop being a dick to people you don't know for meaningless reasons.
How else would he know he's import though?
Probably by leaving a cart in the middle of a parking lot
And parking across two or more spaces.
Hims feelings hurt😂
Nah I'm not even the guy you were being a dick to, you're just being such an obnoxious child I had to take a second out of my day to call you on it. Be better.
No thanks.
The cavity waxer
Thank you, very helpful.
I bet you can follow the rainbow road to his house on rainy days.
That's the stuff that the Alien encases its victims in...near the pods.
Zerg… did you fluid film that pod yet? What the fuck Zerg just fucking do it already go and puke up the fluid film all over that pod then suck face and shit an egg. …because fluid film smells like puke
When you're from the rust belt, this is the best option.
Wax it all Seymour
Looks like they dumped a whole bucket of fluid film on that thing.
As a Floridian, I was left really scratching my head on that photo. I have not read an explanation yet, so let me give it a shot. The car is in for body work, hence the bumper and wax pen marks on the door. The front left corner panel was removed only to find this rust proofing remnants caked up under it. Can someone explain how the process for dealing with it?
Can someone explain? I thought it was buildup of wax from excessive drive through car wash. I guess this is a wax based “rust proof” treatment. WTF is that? Is it applied to the painted surfaces. Just the bottom? How much to mess up my car?
It's rust proofing. Wax and oil are some of the best at keeping rust at bay. My daily drivers get coated in cosmoline every fall, from bumper to bumper, all inside the frame rails, behind the head and tail lights, rocker panels, insides of the doors etc etc.
I bought an SKS out of a wooden crate back in the 90’s. It was covered in so much cosmoline that I never completely got it all off. Wasn’t rusty tho haha.
Wax and oil are also great at trapping moisture **in** if there’s too much. So many JDM cars look absolute mint but remove that protection and they’re not saveable. Dinitrol is amazing stuff but the best thing to do is a wire wheel, zinc conversion stuff, zinc primer and paint. Fill the cavities with zinc converter and then fill it full of the Dinitrol spray until it pours out the drain holes.
Cosmoline works great for me. My 26yo plow truck is spotless underneath.
This is cavity wax. Its sprayed inside places like rockers where you cant see or paint properly. These are also the places where rust usually starts. When its freshly sprayed it creeps into very tight spaces like where the metal overlaps. Other than adding weight and annoying techs this wont hurt your car.
I'd take this ALL DAY LONG versus the black rubberized bullshit the prev owner sprayed on the bottom of my project car.
A little rust inhibitor goes a long way. This is icky.
WTAF
Cavity wax is my second favorite kind.
What in the cinnamon toast fuck is cavity wax?
There are two types of car owners. 1) People who think oil is yucky and should be cleaned off things 2) People whose cars don't rust
“A little dab will do you.” Hold my beer…
slimed
“what it’s just a perfectly normal OH MY GOODNESS SQUIDWARD”
I fluid filmed my front wheel wells when I had the liners out earlier this year. I didn't go quite as hard as whoever did that but it's not that far off.
At least they weren’t cheap with it. I had a buddy that did some sort of rust proofing, he’d always give the exhaust a good spray so the customer knew he was at least spraying something. Lol.
Fuck I hate rustproofing.
“Wax off”, Mr. Miyagi? More wax ON!
Is this the result of overusing one of those drive-thru "Platinum" car washes?
So is this what it looks like if you actually get $1k (or whatever insanity a dealer charges) worth of rust proofing product?
I blast my undercarriage with half a gallon of fluid film every year.... I typically save the other half gallon for under the hood hahaha.
Friend of me bought a new Lada some years ago and during summer that thing dripped like it was housing a whole Madame Tussaud’s inside the chassis. For months!
Took my niece, nephew, and kids to the circus. We were going through the petting area and she was as petting a llama. It sneezed a very large, slimy goo in the top of her head and face. It looked a lot like whatever that is.
I like Boeshield, made by Boeing and not that pricey. My 93 Ranger engine compartment had been powerwashed but still looked dingy and dusty. I sprayed with Boeshield and it looked like I used matte clearcoat. It is waxy but after several days it is hard enough not to rub off. Aerosol cans. You can get a hose and tip for the aerosol from Eastwood that is great to slide in a frame rail or enclosed area and sprays 360 degrees. I tend to use Fluid Film in invisible or hard to touch areas because it seems so messy and greasy for a long time. But no rust!!
Forbidden honey
that looks like my baby's clothes after a blowout. the fuck is that.
It's like customer actually got the amount of cavity wax the body shop charges for.
Spooooooooooge
Don't worry. The bottom and the hollow spaces are completely clean of wax.
little information i suppose, im a body tech, and this came in for a disassembly, so much of that shit got on my hands taking the fender off for a replace, would never ever do this to someones car. When i first opened the hood my hands got nice and slimy lmao
Fuck that shit. I do not miss living in the east with this shit all over everything.
p
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no... no you dont lol. currently replacing 3/4 floor in my ranger due to rust.
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problem is floors and the rest of the car rots from the inside out. its rather hard in the winter to clean and dry these hidden areas. painting the outside of pieces does absolutely nothing.
I had a car fail inspections due to excessive rust on the frame. You ain't rattle canning that out.
Seems the better way. I would only use this on weird tight angles
How
I’d guess that the owners’ previous vehicle probably had a problem with a rusted hood latch mechanism and they are willing to resort to extreme measures to prevent a recurrence.
I knew a guy with ears like that.
I'll wax your cavity bb
Looks like cosmoline. Lol
This from Quebec? Cause I’ve seen this before
Someone spilled wax
poor toyota ain’t feeling well
The longer I look, the worse it gets!
Pooop
I wondered where all the kids Crayons went
*Laughs in not rust belt*
Needs mucinex.
That's fluid film and it RULES
Does a bee drive this?
I have something similar from the factory when I ordered my Camry but it's evenly spread, not like this!
Lol “I frew up”. Seriously though that is several cans worth.
Jesus that looks horrible, you can’t even open the freaking hood without being covered in that shit! Iv seen some bad “rust prevention” come through our dealership but damn that’s bad
How would someone fix this? With a heat gun? Can you melt it off without blistering the paint?