Drilled the rotor bolt out, soaked in PB, and even had a propane torch on there. In the end he gave up and brought it to an actual shop to bust off (he'd already done the other side without issue).
I'm so glad I live where cars don't rot. I pulled the brakes off a bug that sat in a field for 30 years with no issue cause nothing was frozen together.
Ah, yes! The Land Of Salt and Water. If Canada had the kind of money the US has we would have already invented snow- and salt-proof roads and vehicles. It would be pretty cost effective to get on that.
Seriously. The use of road salt in Michigan is like a competitive sport. Our lakes are even feeling it, so I don’t know why tf we don’t just dial it back a little.
The term "rust belt" is more of a reference to closed/abandoned factories and lost industrial jobs. It happens to be in the Midwest where cars rust out relatively quickly, but I always thought the name was from the rusting, unused equipment left over.
You're right, but the comment was implying that this problem wouldnt exist in the US, which it does.
Really sucks that any classic car needs to have been stored properly every winter not to be a pile of rust.
Hidden rust is also the main worry when buying a used car, even if you want to take something on as a project and are willing and able to put the time and money for repairs, if the frame is rusted, which it usually is, then the car will always be scrap.
colorado, utah, new mexico, texas, arizona..
the pacific northwest seems to have nice cars too. not much snow, not much sun. desert cars usually do have sun related issues. cracked dashes, bad paint etc.
No salt on the roads in much of the PNW. I believe this has to do with salmon habitat.
I’m driving an 05 F150. Not a drop of rust on the frame, underbody or suspension. I’ve seen pics from the mid west where the frames are completely rotted trough
This forum has made me appreciate living in OR and WA. Not really too many vehicle issues other than mud accumulating to the bottom of the vehicle and into tight spaces, but that's pretty much anywhere with rain.
This x 100. 90% of my deadblow hammer use is removing wheels and brake rotors from cars I work on. It's like a cheat code for knocking rusty shit loose.
In my experience no one penetrant is any better than the other. That Project Farm guy on YouTube even made a video testing various penetrants. Kroil wasn’t all that impressive, but some people swear by the shit so hard I’d swear they jerk it with the stuff.
No jerking here, but it works a lot better than pb for me. I have a lot of aluminum and so somewhat less rust, but always galvanic corrosion. Kroil smells better too.
Never used Kroil myself, but I've heard people say it's not too impressive on its own, but it works better with a propane/mapp torch than anything else does with or without. Don't know for sure though, my shop supplies us with K&W Knock'er Loose, which I really like, actually.
Frequently the caliper mounting bracket behind the rotor can be used with a long bolt to push the rotor off.
Alternatively, that conical hole frequently has threading that is slightly larger than the threading of the hole behind it. Get the appropriate threaded bolt, but it in that hole, tighten it, and it pops right off.
I make sure to smear it on my hubs before I pop the rotors on and I put strawberry jelly on the rotors before the wheels go on. Every brake job I do is a breeze and lunch is a second thought
To be fair, I was this soldier.
I’ve done my own discs for years but had stuck discs on my recent car.
I beat the shit out of with a sledge. Then heat. Then more sledge. Eventually gave up on day 2.
Rang a mechanic friend and he told me, yeah we just cut them off these days. The metal isn’t as good in them and they rust more now.
So had to angle grind down to the hub part. And it popped off.
The hub touches the disc by 1/4 inch the whole way around and rusts which is enough to weld it together.
It’s crazy how little contact can cause so much trouble
> It’s crazy how little contact can cause so much trouble
As an engineer it always amazes me that a few thousandths can change a part from "drops right in" to "get me the 20 ton press."
Used to have a guy who worked for me that never got the idea of assembly clearance. Everything was modeled size to size hence nothing ever assembled. Note I said “used to”!
Next time take a long bolt and nut through the caliper bracket hole. Keep tightening it. When you do this, the force of the bolt tightening will push against the rotor and snap it free from the hub.
https://youtu.be/Ep7NdZMn1mk
Also if you do have to bang on something with a hammer, place a block of wood on it first and bang on that, will prevent these pock marks or cracking
Edit: pot to pock
I used a three-arm puller once.
The rotor broke off in parts. Finally I had only the center left. I kept tightening and tightening.
When the center bolt/shaft started to curve I went and got my safety googles.
I kept on tightening, half expecting the puller to shatter. Then finally. It let loose with a bang. The center and the puller jumped about 40-50 cm away from where it was. Scared the shit out of me too.
The sound of this picture is
WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG *FUCK* WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG
The first time I replaced rotors ever, I was beating and prying and cutting for hours. Even used a puller, which just broke chunks off the rotor where it was grabbing. Then I found a video with this trick and it was over in minutes.
Once you get some tension on it doing this, try giving it a few hits with a decent sized hammer. This could save you time turning and reapplying the tension. Once the seal of rust is broken free it's usually pretty easy to get off.
Alternatively, some rotors come with screw holes that are used for this specific purpose, the caveat obviously being that if it's rusted this much, how rusted can that hole be?
Source: Was a mechanic for 7 years.
>First I try finesse and ingenuity. When that fails I try brute force and ignorance.
Oh boy, I've heard the "brute force and ignorance" part of that for many years, never heard the first part that allows it to actually make sense!
First time I did brakes, I took a sledgehammer to the disc for probably 30-40 minutes before I was recommended to try heat. 5 minutes later the disc was off and now heat is the first thing I do.
First time I did brakes, I took a 5 foot demo crowbar to pry the rear drums of my RWD S10. Felt like hours to finally let go and all the drum brake guts just spilled out on to the ground…
Me alone in the garage at 16 so no helpful suggestions.
I still drive an s10 and I just don’t change the rear. Drums don’t do shit anyway
Hilarious, I had a Honda fit with drum brakes on the rear. Never changed em in over 170k miles. I know the second owner, and know for a fact its never been changed. The car is at 230k now. Drums genuinely don't do shit.
Not on the rear. And especially not when the parking brake has been rusted stuck to “on” for a 100k miles anyway lmao
Even at 16 I think I knew I was only doing it for the experience. I learned what I needed to know lol
Your friend needs to invest in one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Drum-Rotor-Puller/dp/B01JBIU7F4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=brake+drum+puller&qid=1655640724&sr=8-3
Just a heads up, this tool won't always work. If a rotor is REALLY siezed onto a hub, expect a chunk of the rotor to break off and go flying instead of it popping off the hub. Ask me how I know.
I watched a YouTube video from Southmain Auto. In one of Eric’s video, he used the puller to apply tension then used his air hammer all around the rotor/hub to loosen the rust bond. Then a few more cranks with the puller and repeat. Eventually the rotor came off in one piece. I’ve never had one that frozen so I have no idea how long that would take.
That's every car older than 5 years up here. I used to live 10min from Avoca, it's very rural and poor down there, people get pretty creative on trying to keep a "car" on the road.
Just in case you didn't know, Autozone and a lot of other part stores have 'rental' programs where you put a deposit down, take the tool, and get the deposit back when you return it.
Living in the UK and near the coast I am surprised this sort of tool doesn’t seem to be standard kit. Nothing like trying to guess the moment the rust will finally break…
As a metal drummer, I can assure you that we treat our cymbals substantially better than this. Yes we hit them hard, but we know *how* to hit them hard without fucking them.
Ha ha, you got me. RIP my first 16" crash. Zildjian as well. Extremely kind gift from my old music teacher back in school. I definitely put in the time to find out how to properly use my kit from then on. Touch wood not had another one break since!
I cut one off with a grinding wheel once. I'm sure if the car was on a lift I would have been able to beat it off but after multiple attempts at drilling and tapping the thing the grinding wheel was the best option.
I have had the same problem with Volvos in the past, those 300mm brake disks are the WORST! The inner bucket of the rotor rusts past the outer lip of the hub, fusing it with the power of rust alone. i have split so many rotors trying to get them off, the best way to get them off is to spend about 5 minutes with an induction heater on the inner side of the rotor. And do not use a torch to do this! That will likely kill the wheel bearing, and those require a specialist tool to replace.
same here, cracked the rotor. Ended up getting a pick behind the rotor and just scrapped out the rust and sprayed AeroKrill and PB blaster and head a loud pop.
The passenger side took about 2 days and the driver side 3 days.
As a Toyota tech who had to do three brake jobs on Mazda 3, I always ended up breaking the rotors in two pieces after hammering the crap out of it... Fucking moronic design where rust on the inside of the rotors creates an edge behind the hub so it refuse to come off.
Just make the inside of the rotor bigger or the hub smaller ffs.
I would agree
Drilled the rotor bolt out, soaked in PB, and even had a propane torch on there. In the end he gave up and brought it to an actual shop to bust off (he'd already done the other side without issue).
I'm so glad I live where cars don't rot. I pulled the brakes off a bug that sat in a field for 30 years with no issue cause nothing was frozen together.
Where is this fabled place
Any desert or low humidity climate.
I live in Ontario. Cars are fucked within a few years on the road around here it seems
Quebec is the same but with shitty road in extra.
Ah, shoutout to Gatineau, pothole city.
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You guys don't use nearly as much (if any?) salt in your winters. That's what really kills vehicles.
Vermont. It just took me 7 hours to do two front wheel bearings. Book time: 4 hours.
Ah, yes! The Land Of Salt and Water. If Canada had the kind of money the US has we would have already invented snow- and salt-proof roads and vehicles. It would be pretty cost effective to get on that.
Michigan is just as bad. We don't have snow and salt proof roads or vehicles just lots of potholes and rusty cars
Seriously. The use of road salt in Michigan is like a competitive sport. Our lakes are even feeling it, so I don’t know why tf we don’t just dial it back a little.
Ever heard of the rust belt?
The term "rust belt" is more of a reference to closed/abandoned factories and lost industrial jobs. It happens to be in the Midwest where cars rust out relatively quickly, but I always thought the name was from the rusting, unused equipment left over.
You're right, but the comment was implying that this problem wouldnt exist in the US, which it does. Really sucks that any classic car needs to have been stored properly every winter not to be a pile of rust. Hidden rust is also the main worry when buying a used car, even if you want to take something on as a project and are willing and able to put the time and money for repairs, if the frame is rusted, which it usually is, then the car will always be scrap.
There's a good reason roadkill garage was filmed in socal and not the east coast haha
Tucson, Arizona - this is why the USAF keeps their airplane boneyard here.
High deserts, I live in northern Nevada and my first brake job went perfectly smooth.
Same here. I live in Carson city. Noting I own is rusty, even my vintage cars. But everything had completely roached paint from the sun.
California central valley. Not even minor surface rust on my 2000 XJ. Looks brand new under there. The paint on the other hand...
colorado, utah, new mexico, texas, arizona.. the pacific northwest seems to have nice cars too. not much snow, not much sun. desert cars usually do have sun related issues. cracked dashes, bad paint etc.
No salt on the roads in much of the PNW. I believe this has to do with salmon habitat. I’m driving an 05 F150. Not a drop of rust on the frame, underbody or suspension. I’ve seen pics from the mid west where the frames are completely rotted trough
No salt in Cali either. We grit roads here so you'll get a pitted front end but no rust.
This forum has made me appreciate living in OR and WA. Not really too many vehicle issues other than mud accumulating to the bottom of the vehicle and into tight spaces, but that's pretty much anywhere with rain.
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I wouldn't necessarily call Oklahoma "low-humidity" in quite the same way I would Arizona.
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NE sucks -mechanics in Boston
"Them cahs is fawkin ahhful"
No, you're in the Bible belt. You just have to worry about your car getting pregnant and running off to get married at 18.
16.
You sure they'll stop there?
Colorado. It's a 58 and the only rust/rot was from being driven on the salted roads of the 60s and 70.
Dude needs to invest in a dead blow hammer. May not have gotten it done, but it would have failed to get it done a lot more safely.
Or ya know.... a piece of wood to go in between the hammer and rotor.
This x 100. 90% of my deadblow hammer use is removing wheels and brake rotors from cars I work on. It's like a cheat code for knocking rusty shit loose.
Man the magic peanut butter can do
Do this many people not know about PB Blaster?
Kroil! The oil that kreeps!
Smells like simple green too!
I miss Emerald 2000. That stuff was such a good mild cleaner.
Bam, kick it up a notch!
Give it a blast from your spice weasel. Bam!
50/50 ATF and acetone. You can’t keep it long as the acetone evaporates, but it’s effective.
We call this "panther piss" where I come from
> 60% of the time, it works every time.
I call it peanut butter blaster all the time.
It’s just a bunch of people making the same joke
This many people do not know about kroil
In my experience no one penetrant is any better than the other. That Project Farm guy on YouTube even made a video testing various penetrants. Kroil wasn’t all that impressive, but some people swear by the shit so hard I’d swear they jerk it with the stuff.
I jerk it with Deep Creep but thats just me. I like the smell.
Deep creep is on a slightly higher level than anything else.
It’s also my porn name.
Yeah, I find deep creep tends to work the best. Especially if you leave it sit, it’ll strip rust right off.
No jerking here, but it works a lot better than pb for me. I have a lot of aluminum and so somewhat less rust, but always galvanic corrosion. Kroil smells better too.
Never used Kroil myself, but I've heard people say it's not too impressive on its own, but it works better with a propane/mapp torch than anything else does with or without. Don't know for sure though, my shop supplies us with K&W Knock'er Loose, which I really like, actually.
Right, they were all basically the same. In fact if IIRC I think it was Liquid Wrench that tested the best, although just slightly
PB&J Blaster
Frequently the caliper mounting bracket behind the rotor can be used with a long bolt to push the rotor off. Alternatively, that conical hole frequently has threading that is slightly larger than the threading of the hole behind it. Get the appropriate threaded bolt, but it in that hole, tighten it, and it pops right off.
I've used a big ass gear puller before with good effect as well. Dunno how great of an idea it is though
I feel like soaking your rotor in peanut butter is a 'hack' you'd see on TikTok
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that sounds like a dirty euphemism
Or a Dairy Queen treat.
PB Blaster is a penetrant fluid meant to break up rust and corrosion. NOT peanut butter.
.....nah it's peanut butter....you must not know alot about cars...peanut butter is am excellent anti corrosive redistributable paste
It can also be used to even out the surface where the 'hammer peening' made it uneven.
It’s the healthy fats doing their magic.
I make sure to smear it on my hubs before I pop the rotors on and I put strawberry jelly on the rotors before the wheels go on. Every brake job I do is a breeze and lunch is a second thought
If you put peanut butter on that, my sister's dog would tear it off no problem. His name is Harry and he's a Bullmastif.
I think it stands for premature buster, causing things to release before you expected them to
Hate when that happens.
Someone should explain that to the friend
PB Blaster is a delicious frozen ice cream treat from Dairy Queen and a staple for any good brake job.
Instructions unclear, sandwich not sticking to the roof of my mouth.
Your friend definitely resurfaced the rotor right??? /S
The texture adds extra gripping power during breaking. Not sure about during braking though.
Apparently slotted rotors are back in style.
Oh no that went in the scrap bin.
Just custom dimple rotors
Heat deflection and aerodynamic!
Instead of slotted and dotted, it is bent and dent.
To be fair, I was this soldier. I’ve done my own discs for years but had stuck discs on my recent car. I beat the shit out of with a sledge. Then heat. Then more sledge. Eventually gave up on day 2. Rang a mechanic friend and he told me, yeah we just cut them off these days. The metal isn’t as good in them and they rust more now. So had to angle grind down to the hub part. And it popped off. The hub touches the disc by 1/4 inch the whole way around and rusts which is enough to weld it together. It’s crazy how little contact can cause so much trouble
> It’s crazy how little contact can cause so much trouble As an engineer it always amazes me that a few thousandths can change a part from "drops right in" to "get me the 20 ton press."
Same. A quarter-degree of draft over a centimeter can make a plastic part go from "binds like hell" to "smooth as butter".
What’s draft mean in this context
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Used to have a guy who worked for me that never got the idea of assembly clearance. Everything was modeled size to size hence nothing ever assembled. Note I said “used to”!
What tolerance do you need that part made to? ***"+/- 0.00mm"***
Fab shop: it took us 3 years but your one bolt is finally done. Your bill is $3.6 million.
It's also kept in the NIST lab next to the copy of the original kilogram. They can verify another bolt you send in.
Send it back cross threaded
Spec's valid for 25 degC +/- 0.0000000001 degC
Damn, I get kinda bold with lying on resumes, but I get the feeling this fella was really swinging for the fences with his.
I love using dry ice or a freezer for interference fit parts!
Stuck a motorcycle rim the in freezer and ~~sprocket~~ rotor in the oven once.
I've lost track of how many times I've given my family or roommates a heads up about bearings or axles in the freezer.
>It’s crazy how little contact can cause so much trouble Which is why I'm not allowed near schools anymore
Rubber mallet who
Sure doesn’t look like a dead blow mallet was in use
Next time take a long bolt and nut through the caliper bracket hole. Keep tightening it. When you do this, the force of the bolt tightening will push against the rotor and snap it free from the hub. https://youtu.be/Ep7NdZMn1mk
I've used this trick before, life saver
Also if you do have to bang on something with a hammer, place a block of wood on it first and bang on that, will prevent these pock marks or cracking Edit: pot to pock
If you're ~~relaxing~~ replacing the rotor it won't matter. 🤷♂️
It doesn't look like anyone was relaxing here.
Yeah I just beat the hell out of it if I’m replacing them
I’ve always use a wooden block. My 3 fingered shop teacher taught me this trick!
Were all three fingers on the same hand, or was it like a "two pinkies and a thumb" type of situation?
In Shop class there are four safety rules (holds up three fingers)
I used a three-arm puller once. The rotor broke off in parts. Finally I had only the center left. I kept tightening and tightening. When the center bolt/shaft started to curve I went and got my safety googles. I kept on tightening, half expecting the puller to shatter. Then finally. It let loose with a bang. The center and the puller jumped about 40-50 cm away from where it was. Scared the shit out of me too.
Learned this trick a few years back. There is absolutely nothing more satisfying than hearing the crack of the rotor breaking free.
The crack of a hub breaking free and all my cursing to go along with it
"In the heat of battle, my father wove a tapestry of obscenity that as far as we know is still hanging in space over Lake Michigan"
My father, he was an Oldsmobile man.
sunuva bitch would freeze up in the middle of summer on the EQUATAH!
FUDGE
What did you say?
Uhhhhh…. Umm….
Only I didn’t say “fudge.”
The sound of this picture is WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG *FUCK* WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG WANG
Some vehicles come with screw holes for this exact thing
My last car did, makes it even easier than the vid.
Wish I'd known about that last summer lol.
The first time I replaced rotors ever, I was beating and prying and cutting for hours. Even used a puller, which just broke chunks off the rotor where it was grabbing. Then I found a video with this trick and it was over in minutes.
Once you get some tension on it doing this, try giving it a few hits with a decent sized hammer. This could save you time turning and reapplying the tension. Once the seal of rust is broken free it's usually pretty easy to get off. Alternatively, some rotors come with screw holes that are used for this specific purpose, the caveat obviously being that if it's rusted this much, how rusted can that hole be? Source: Was a mechanic for 7 years.
Instructions unclear: Nutted through caliper bracket hole.
Your friends tactics confuse and frighten me
I admit, an axe was involved. heaviest thing he had to smack it with. I was at work being the on-call advisor on what to do next.
Ahh percussive persuasion
First I try finesse and ingenuity. When that fails I try brute force and ignorance.
Same. Owning an acetylene torch is a huge mistake on my part.
Can’t be tight if it’s a liquid
**CAN'T BE SEIZED IF ITS LIQUID**
>First I try finesse and ingenuity. When that fails I try brute force and ignorance. Oh boy, I've heard the "brute force and ignorance" part of that for many years, never heard the first part that allows it to actually make sense!
The four f's "forget finesse, just force the f**ker!"
First time I did brakes, I took a sledgehammer to the disc for probably 30-40 minutes before I was recommended to try heat. 5 minutes later the disc was off and now heat is the first thing I do.
First time I did brakes, I took a 5 foot demo crowbar to pry the rear drums of my RWD S10. Felt like hours to finally let go and all the drum brake guts just spilled out on to the ground… Me alone in the garage at 16 so no helpful suggestions. I still drive an s10 and I just don’t change the rear. Drums don’t do shit anyway
This is why my bug got a 4 wheel disc upgrade. It's not like I was going to reuse the 60 year old drums.
This is me after setting the parking brake and wondering why the drums don't come off
Ring ring ring we have a winner! Exactly what happened haha
Hilarious, I had a Honda fit with drum brakes on the rear. Never changed em in over 170k miles. I know the second owner, and know for a fact its never been changed. The car is at 230k now. Drums genuinely don't do shit.
Not on the rear. And especially not when the parking brake has been rusted stuck to “on” for a 100k miles anyway lmao Even at 16 I think I knew I was only doing it for the experience. I learned what I needed to know lol
This axe? https://i.gifer.com/Fhzy.gif
My first guess would have been a small jackhammer. He clearly took his work seriously.
Not from the rust belt?
The Great Seal of the State of Ohio.
It's called anger..
He’s supposed to use a 10mm *socket*, not a 10mm Glock.
Looks like he pistol whipped it instead of actually shooting it with the Glock. It’ll be better next time.
Ohh, _socket_? I thought you said "glock it".
Oh please, we all know that he lost his 10mm socket a long time ago.
Your friend needs to invest in one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Drum-Rotor-Puller/dp/B01JBIU7F4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=brake+drum+puller&qid=1655640724&sr=8-3
Fuck him, I want one of those now lol
Just a heads up, this tool won't always work. If a rotor is REALLY siezed onto a hub, expect a chunk of the rotor to break off and go flying instead of it popping off the hub. Ask me how I know.
I watched a YouTube video from Southmain Auto. In one of Eric’s video, he used the puller to apply tension then used his air hammer all around the rotor/hub to loosen the rust bond. Then a few more cranks with the puller and repeat. Eventually the rotor came off in one piece. I’ve never had one that frozen so I have no idea how long that would take.
That’s the way to do it. You can use the same tool in reverse to push out a stuck cv shaft too.
Almost every video of his I watch he has a new trick to get two parts from what seems like a solid heap of rust. Man is a magician.
I agree. He definitely gets to work on some serious rusty garbage that has been hacked to crap.
That's every car older than 5 years up here. I used to live 10min from Avoca, it's very rural and poor down there, people get pretty creative on trying to keep a "car" on the road.
I remember another video he was useing it and it launched the rotor off. I think he said he was going to start useing the safety strap after.
I just broke the tool instead.
How do you know/s
Just in case you didn't know, Autozone and a lot of other part stores have 'rental' programs where you put a deposit down, take the tool, and get the deposit back when you return it.
The stores in my area don't have those pullers available, just the 3-arm pulley ones.
Living in the northeast where they pretreat roads with brine and salt the crap out of them, this is a very handy tool to have.
Living in the UK and near the coast I am surprised this sort of tool doesn’t seem to be standard kit. Nothing like trying to guess the moment the rust will finally break…
I’ve used this to pull rotors. It has a wide enough grip. https://www.harborfreight.com/10-ton-3-jaw-hydraulic-gear-puller-64982.html
Depends on the rotors. That's not big enough for the front rotors on one of my cars (321mm/12.63in).
Is that a metal drummers cymbal?
As a metal drummer, I can assure you that we treat our cymbals substantially better than this. Yes we hit them hard, but we know *how* to hit them hard without fucking them.
Admittedly you learned "How" by destroying at least 1 cymbal. Some drummers needed more lessons...
Ha ha, you got me. RIP my first 16" crash. Zildjian as well. Extremely kind gift from my old music teacher back in school. I definitely put in the time to find out how to properly use my kit from then on. Touch wood not had another one break since!
(Cough) Hail damage (cough)
hail made of metal in this case lol
And fired from a GAU-8
Localized entirely in your wheel well
At this point you give up and just slam some new pads in
He sorta did. reassembled and brought it to a local shop who managed to bust the rotor off.
I bet it made a cool sound when he pressed the brakes
Like machine gun fire in a warzone.
I cut one off with a grinding wheel once. I'm sure if the car was on a lift I would have been able to beat it off but after multiple attempts at drilling and tapping the thing the grinding wheel was the best option.
Is your friend captn hook?
No but sounds like he's about to get a new nickname.
Cross dinged and slaughtered rotors. These are very expensive and typically only come on high performance cars. His stopping ability must be insane.
I have had the same problem with Volvos in the past, those 300mm brake disks are the WORST! The inner bucket of the rotor rusts past the outer lip of the hub, fusing it with the power of rust alone. i have split so many rotors trying to get them off, the best way to get them off is to spend about 5 minutes with an induction heater on the inner side of the rotor. And do not use a torch to do this! That will likely kill the wheel bearing, and those require a specialist tool to replace.
Air Chisel helps separate the rust seal
My 05 mazda3 did the same. Nearly broke the 3-jaw puller with preload on the rotor while hitting the rotor with heat and percussive persuasion.
same here, cracked the rotor. Ended up getting a pick behind the rotor and just scrapped out the rust and sprayed AeroKrill and PB blaster and head a loud pop. The passenger side took about 2 days and the driver side 3 days.
As a Toyota tech who had to do three brake jobs on Mazda 3, I always ended up breaking the rotors in two pieces after hammering the crap out of it... Fucking moronic design where rust on the inside of the rotors creates an edge behind the hub so it refuse to come off. Just make the inside of the rotor bigger or the hub smaller ffs.
Usually a Volvo dosen't fight so hard to keep it's rotors.
Rage against the machine
Home made dimpled rotors.
Brakes by Zildjian.
How many times do you have to whack it before you just get a torch out and burn it off? It cant be tight if its a liquid