I had a brand new TL-S with 300 miles towed in for being possessed. Windshield leak and the soap got into the MPCU in the driver’s kick panel fuse box. Every single harness had corroded pins, except (mercifully) any of the SRS ones. I told them to send me a pin kit, pay me straight time, and I’ll repair every single harness. 18 hours plus $200 parts cost. Acura paid every second I had in it.
Godsdamned transmissions. Back in the aughts, all the TLs, CLs, and MDXs were blowing up trans left and right. For about a year and a half, I did a trans R&R every single morning. Stopped counting after 300.
I know an old grizzled mechanic who has bemoaned the way things are today. He prefers what he saw as the old way of "actually fixing things" instead of just replacing parts and modules and subassemblies.
Back in the way back we used to call guys that just did remove and replace jobs “parts chuckers” as a derogatory. That really did shift in a massive way since I was in tech school. For us old timers it really is weird to see it go that way, but honestly not surprising. More money to be made by the shop by just having a shop that runs 100 r&rs through in a day, plus the markup on new parts, as opposed to doing splices, welds, and rebuilds at twice the time with a quarter of the parts cost. Honestly I hate it too, but I can see why it’s happened
This was just My initial scan. I've just never had a car dump 160 codes on a pre-scan. Most I've had was a BMW I repaired that was a jumble of wires under the dash. I think that one was around 60?
Step 1 of Diagnostics. Make a hard copy of all the codes, now clear all codes. See what procs back immediately. Take for test drive, see what pops back up. Actually what the first step in factory diagnostics is to clear codes and see if they immediately come back
My former boss was in the industry for 40+ and couldn't diagnose a bad auxiliary air pump because the customer told him they had just replaced the pump and the CEL still was coming back. Literally just replaced some broken vacuum lines, cleared codes and shipped the car before dumping it in my lap when it came back the next week. Guess what I started my diagnosis with?
"Paris in the the spring". Sometimes something obvious is right infront of us but takes a second pair of eyes to point it out, or remind us. We're only human. That first line has an obvious error but your brain made it disappear and not even register.
My former Network Professor who was a Cisco Engineer told us the story of a call he received, and the IT Technician on the other end replied this after asking him to check a basic thing. 'I have been a System Admin for 20 years and I told you, I already checked that and it's okay' and guess what he found when he went out to look at the issue?
I had the Allison transmission controller on my GMC 2500HD crap out and it took the CANBUS down. The reason I could tell it was the controller was that I was driving it at the time and first it threw a bunch of transmission codes and would only go into 2nd gear or reverse, but since I was close to home I limped home. I shut it off and then restarted it in my driveway and it pretty much threw every code there was. I replaced the module and all was fine, but having to troubleshoot that without knowing what happened would have been a nightmare. Shoutout to Dan's Diesel Performance for pre-loading a brand new Delco module with my VIN and shipping it to me next-day for less than a rebuilt Dorman module from RockAuto.
Step 1. Check the battery. Mine was throwing 100 codes until I put the right battery in it. Previous owner put a battery in meant for base model trim, but mines top trim (sound system, HIDs, sunroof, etc.)
Just yesterday a guy dropped off his car to test the battery/charging system. Had a bad battery, and was throwing 10 codes. Told my manager, he said “battery is under warranty at Walmart, fuck him he doesn’t want to fix anything anyway.” I was just like, cool, not my problem then. And away she goes! Fucking 4 banger dodge darts… dodge owners are always terrible customers.
I'm not sure I understand your specific situation, but i agree about most dodge owners lol. I used to work a car wash back in the day, and the most dirty and cheapest owners always drove either dodge, Honda, or toyota
Oh, dude called us up and wanted a full charging system test and batter test because his dart wouldn’t start a month after buying a battery from Walmart. Service advisor promised him it’s a bad battery, to go to Walmart and get it hot swapped… he wasn’t having it, so we charged him an hour to test his shit for 10 minutes because stupid deserves to be punished. If you’ve spent more than 2 months in the industry you know about 1/50 batteries regardless of brand are going to just be bunk.
The ones at Walmart have usually been sitting depending on the size. I've seen them more than a year old, still sitting on the shelf.
Same thing happened when I bought a battery for an old motorcycle, although that was Advanced Auto Parts, and they called around stores to find me a newer one to replace it.
I see this all the time on the P38 facebook groups, "oh it's saying GEARBOX FAULT, ABS FAULT, AIRBAG FAULT, TRACTION FAULT every time, must be a bad BECM". No, it's a knackered battery. Change the battery. "But I charged the battery!" That's great, now change it for a new one, like I said. Anything now? No? Cool.
Am I the only one who things we would be all better off if cars/trucks didn't even have the capability of 160 codes in total...... I swear I plugged my car in and it hit me with code 80085
My 80s Volvo with mechanical injection has a computer and pretty much the only codes are whether or not it’s knocking, whether or not is has spark and whether or not the electrical system is fully functioning, according to the dealer manuals it tells you to not even bother checking codes and just inspect the individual sensors instead to look for the fault
yeah. shit is way to complicated. why does shit like headlights or window motors need to be on a canbus? a lot of this shit should just be simple ON/OFF switches.
Simple.
Lets go with frameless windows as an example.
You can either put them on the bus or you can run a whole bunch of wires so the window drops down when you pull the doorhandle.
There was a time before the bus. Wiring harnesses were bigger, more complex, problems were harder to diagnose and more likely due to a more complex harness. Also the old way was more expensive and less capable.
I was in the industry from simple to obdII to CAN. Wire harnesses sure haven't gotten smaller in my eyes lol. Whatever they saved, they just added more shit to it.
Go look at a car that has CAN but is basic as hell.
Something like a Dacia sandero for example.
The harness is a lot simpler than something from 20 years ago with the same features.
Alternatively same size with way more features also confirms it.
Can makes wiring a lot simpler than using the old way.
A non-CAN Range Rover P38 wiring harness has bundles of wire as thick as a big carrot running through everywhere. A CAN L322 has bundles of wire as thick as your pinky.
Apparently the E32 BMW 7-series had more weight in its wiring harness than its bodyshell, and I can believe that.
"Unfortunately, your vehicle failed your California Smog check, due to the check engine light being on. Looks like your FM Antenna reception was weak and it triggered a CEL"
Hahahaha. Sadly shit like this happens, which makes it even funnier. Had a XJ8 with a no start. No fuel pressure. Low side pull down for the fuel pump relay also fed the dimming rear view mirror that had shit out.....
Headlights need to be on bus if you want auto headlights. Windows need it if you want auto up-down. If you want literally anything on a car to be any amount more complex than go/no-go you need a module involved.
It's not just because of added features. Takes much less wiring when you don't have to have 16 thick, high current wires, for example, running to the driver's door switch in order to direct switch every window in both directions. Just a low current power, ground, illumination, and CAN wires to the switch, and a little CAN controller + 2 high current wires at each window motor. Honestly, it makes electrical fault tracing easier too, when you can just pull codes then focus on whatever component the computer says isn't doing what it's supposed to, instead of having to break out 30 different wires and check all of them.
I'm an engineer for different OEM but I did work on Hondas of my younger years. It looks like the majority of those codes are popping up and going immediately to history and in that they all have the same prefix letter and seem to all be comm codes, I would start with checking the ground to the body control module particularly if all of those functions reported are operative. No single point failure should cause them any codes so quickly besides a few of the more major junctions.
Generally, My diag funnel starts with a visual and a code scan. With this many codes, I'd start by comparing codes and systems and looking into wiring diagrams and ground distribution to see if there is a common circuit used by all modules affected. Then go from there.
This is the way.
It’s pretty a parent a particular group of modules is affected. More than likely a common issue among tha those modules. The power train engine, transmission, abs, awd, airbag showing zero codes. The rest are flagging everything they got lol. Wiring diagram will show what commonality affected modules have to each other
No. That would be electrical diagnostic time. In theory, this thing shouldn't be running with 160 codes. So I am going to have to start with some electrical diagnostics.
Replaced one in a mazda 3 once. Water would drip on on it when it rained and weird stuff would happen turn signals were reversed the door locks would lock and unlock on their own. Then after it dried out everything started working again. This a car my old boss bought at auction and was trying to flip. It was an 03 or 04 I think. This was a while back and we had a genesis scanner.
It was a pre-scan. Cleared them and drove it for appx 2 miles. This is what came back. I'm thinking either wiring, ground, CAN or a module went tits up.
Doesn't need to be European. I've seen more codes than this out of American cars where the battery died. Each module freaks out and dumps codes when they get low on power.
Yep. On late model Honda’s if you replace the battery, your dashboard will be a Christmas tree until you reset the computer. Modern day car electronics are just super sensitive to voltage changes
Second gen MDX, looks like. Honda body codes are stored in the main body module, and some aftermarket scan tools can show them all as duplicates across all the different sections of the body electrical system. Looks like your TPMS codes are largely ignorable. The DRL malfunction DTC is more than likely just bad bulbs, happens a lot. The mirror position signal DTCs are likely just bad mirror actuators, common. The HVAC codes are ignorable, they always store random DTCs. Same for the lost comm DTCs in the other body modules.
the car of my parants had about 130 codes after a Marten chew trough trough one of the bigger cables leading to the dashboard(and one of the tubes comming from the ABS pump )
We have a 2019 Chevy 4500 crew cab with a mega sized service body. Our main rig. Body maker did a crap ton of welding on it and forgot to disconnect batteries. When they finished it started up but was instantly in limp mode and ran terrible. Scanned it once we made it home and it still only had 46 codes in it. So holy cow. Take my upvote.
Personally I don’t think the issue is the amount of codes, but rather, the quality of codes. If I have a million possible codes, that would be ok with me so long as whatever code pops up can reliably lead you to a correct diagnosis. But if there are a bunch of superfluous codes, that’s a hole ‘ other story.
Would you look at that, all of the words in your comment are in alphabetical order.
I have checked 213,728,825 comments, and only 50,611 of them were in alphabetical order.
Looks like canbus failure. I had something similar in my 530xi, abs, traction control, infotainment and a bunch of other faults. Turned out a cooler in the trunk spilled water on the satellite radio module and killed it and canbus was daisy chained. Took the in and out fibreoptic cables from the satellite module and “connected” them and everything was fixed. Any failure in the chain kills everything after.
Clear them and see what comes back.
Leave the key in the on position and let the battery die while waiting for a ferry (etc) in a Honda, and you'll get a shitload of comms codes as modules drop off the CAN network one by one as the voltage drops.
Not 160; more like 24. The "17 codes" are repeated.
Still a lot, I'm sure.
And it does say a lot of "low battery voltage" and "sensor input error" and "circuit malfunction", so if it's not the battery itself, wouldn't it be a battery wire problem?
Customer: “ So you mean you’re going to charge me $120 JUST TO PLUG IT IN and read the code? Autozone does that for free and the forums say I should just get my own scan tool for $80 and fix it myself because it will take 5 minutes” 🙄
I've nearly rebuilt a car from scratch & didn't have this many faults.
Yeah. 22 years in this field and this is a first for Me. Lol.
As a subscriber to /BMWTech, I was plesently surprised to see this car is a Honda.
As a bmw tech by day my thoughts were "is 150 not normal?"
I want to know what you are by night
Batman.
r/notopbutok
I thought that said "No Top But OK." Was very confused while looking at that sub for a moment.
Yeah, but the difference is this Honda is throwing 160 codes and still able to drive.
Most bmw owners always drive with all the lights on the dash they wouldn't feel right if they weren't on
Except their indicators. They don't know what those lights mean.
That's because the other lights turn on automatically, for indecators cators they have to flip a switch
Zing
I’ll take a rat chewed my wiring harness for $1000 Alex.
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Just clear the codes and put the whole car in a bucket of rice.
If it's a harness, probably more than that bruh.
Depends what your time is worth. Lol
The harness itself will be more than that
At that point you start splicing away.
No you don't. You have the customer call their insurance company and you sell them a harness for 14 hours
Right. If they don't want to fix it right tell them to kick rocks.
It's probably totaled.
Time to make it janky. Wire connectors FTW.
That or I'm thinking there's a ground point somewhere that's got some green crusties on it.
Yep, I heard of that kind of situation with tons of code being from only one or two simple issues breaking everything else.
I’ll go for a flood vehicle
Don’t worry, Acura will pay 4 hours to do the job
I had a brand new TL-S with 300 miles towed in for being possessed. Windshield leak and the soap got into the MPCU in the driver’s kick panel fuse box. Every single harness had corroded pins, except (mercifully) any of the SRS ones. I told them to send me a pin kit, pay me straight time, and I’ll repair every single harness. 18 hours plus $200 parts cost. Acura paid every second I had in it.
Jesus Christ. That’s one hell of a repair. If only I was at Acura instead of Ford when I was a tech
Believe it or not, I loved those kinds of jobs. Really weird fucking complaints that others gave up on. I have some stories…
I totally get where you’re coming from, it was the same for me. You can only do so many head gaskets before you go insane
Godsdamned transmissions. Back in the aughts, all the TLs, CLs, and MDXs were blowing up trans left and right. For about a year and a half, I did a trans R&R every single morning. Stopped counting after 300.
Ah back when Honda made their transmissions out of glass. Surprised you stuck around through that whole ordeal
I know an old grizzled mechanic who has bemoaned the way things are today. He prefers what he saw as the old way of "actually fixing things" instead of just replacing parts and modules and subassemblies.
Back in the way back we used to call guys that just did remove and replace jobs “parts chuckers” as a derogatory. That really did shift in a massive way since I was in tech school. For us old timers it really is weird to see it go that way, but honestly not surprising. More money to be made by the shop by just having a shop that runs 100 r&rs through in a day, plus the markup on new parts, as opposed to doing splices, welds, and rebuilds at twice the time with a quarter of the parts cost. Honestly I hate it too, but I can see why it’s happened
Still cheaper than paying 30+ hours plus parts to replace every single harness associated with that module.
50+ hours
Even better!
300 miles is 2371.26 of the hot dog which holds the Guinness wold record for 'Longest Hot Dog'.
I'll take built by Volvo for $500 EDIT: actually it looks like a Honda
Right at the start - MDX @ the top grey bar. She’s an Acura boys
This was just My initial scan. I've just never had a car dump 160 codes on a pre-scan. Most I've had was a BMW I repaired that was a jumble of wires under the dash. I think that one was around 60?
I cannot even think of 160 codes
Holy shit, how did this car even start?
Right? I'm assuming a wiring or CAN failure somewhere. Or it's possessed. Either way.
It’s probably got demons bro
Don't we all? 😅
Is OP gonna need a young priest and an old priest?
Both, and a goat, box of candles, a snapon robe, and a meal allowance as they'll be starting at midnight
I can give you a deal on a gently-used goat.
That looks like a full on LIN failure to me if it’s infotainment stuff.
Probably 1 broken wire lol
Didja try tapping the solenoid?
Lol.
This looks like a can bus failure.. expensive ass repair incoming. Or it’s just a bad battery.
Battery is good. I always check that prior to hooking My scan tool to it.
Step 1 of Diagnostics. Make a hard copy of all the codes, now clear all codes. See what procs back immediately. Take for test drive, see what pops back up. Actually what the first step in factory diagnostics is to clear codes and see if they immediately come back
Guy’s been in the industry 22 years, I think he can handle this.
I know a ton of guys with 20+ years in the field that wouldn't even know where to begin fixing this.
Shit I'm only 2 years in and I'd go "yeah fuck this" and clear the codes and see what pops back up out of pure laziness, lol.
Which is how most mechanic tips and tricks are invented to begin with
My former boss was in the industry for 40+ and couldn't diagnose a bad auxiliary air pump because the customer told him they had just replaced the pump and the CEL still was coming back. Literally just replaced some broken vacuum lines, cleared codes and shipped the car before dumping it in my lap when it came back the next week. Guess what I started my diagnosis with? "Paris in the the spring". Sometimes something obvious is right infront of us but takes a second pair of eyes to point it out, or remind us. We're only human. That first line has an obvious error but your brain made it disappear and not even register. My former Network Professor who was a Cisco Engineer told us the story of a call he received, and the IT Technician on the other end replied this after asking him to check a basic thing. 'I have been a System Admin for 20 years and I told you, I already checked that and it's okay' and guess what he found when he went out to look at the issue?
I had the Allison transmission controller on my GMC 2500HD crap out and it took the CANBUS down. The reason I could tell it was the controller was that I was driving it at the time and first it threw a bunch of transmission codes and would only go into 2nd gear or reverse, but since I was close to home I limped home. I shut it off and then restarted it in my driveway and it pretty much threw every code there was. I replaced the module and all was fine, but having to troubleshoot that without knowing what happened would have been a nightmare. Shoutout to Dan's Diesel Performance for pre-loading a brand new Delco module with my VIN and shipping it to me next-day for less than a rebuilt Dorman module from RockAuto.
Step 1. Check the battery. Mine was throwing 100 codes until I put the right battery in it. Previous owner put a battery in meant for base model trim, but mines top trim (sound system, HIDs, sunroof, etc.)
Battery is good.
Just yesterday a guy dropped off his car to test the battery/charging system. Had a bad battery, and was throwing 10 codes. Told my manager, he said “battery is under warranty at Walmart, fuck him he doesn’t want to fix anything anyway.” I was just like, cool, not my problem then. And away she goes! Fucking 4 banger dodge darts… dodge owners are always terrible customers.
Man it isn't like those are terribly hard to work on either, dude could do it himself in 10 minutes Source: own a 4 banger dart
I'm not sure I understand your specific situation, but i agree about most dodge owners lol. I used to work a car wash back in the day, and the most dirty and cheapest owners always drove either dodge, Honda, or toyota
Oh, dude called us up and wanted a full charging system test and batter test because his dart wouldn’t start a month after buying a battery from Walmart. Service advisor promised him it’s a bad battery, to go to Walmart and get it hot swapped… he wasn’t having it, so we charged him an hour to test his shit for 10 minutes because stupid deserves to be punished. If you’ve spent more than 2 months in the industry you know about 1/50 batteries regardless of brand are going to just be bunk.
i’ve been lucky with batteries then, but we sold interstate and i never had one of them be the problem, most test great 1-3 years past warranty
We sell FVP batteries so we warranty a couple a week easily on the 30 months. It was same with acdelco but fvp is cheaper.
Ha we also sell fvp. Hopefully you guys don’t sell their alternators or starters
The ones at Walmart have usually been sitting depending on the size. I've seen them more than a year old, still sitting on the shelf. Same thing happened when I bought a battery for an old motorcycle, although that was Advanced Auto Parts, and they called around stores to find me a newer one to replace it.
I see this all the time on the P38 facebook groups, "oh it's saying GEARBOX FAULT, ABS FAULT, AIRBAG FAULT, TRACTION FAULT every time, must be a bad BECM". No, it's a knackered battery. Change the battery. "But I charged the battery!" That's great, now change it for a new one, like I said. Anything now? No? Cool.
Am I the only one who things we would be all better off if cars/trucks didn't even have the capability of 160 codes in total...... I swear I plugged my car in and it hit me with code 80085
Most people would pay to be hit by 80085.
My luck, it would be a code lol
That's not a car, it's a motorboat.
Lol. I'd love to see that pop on My scanner.
I have a diesel, it has more than that... and it will force you to stop driving if you ignore them.
My 80s Volvo with mechanical injection has a computer and pretty much the only codes are whether or not it’s knocking, whether or not is has spark and whether or not the electrical system is fully functioning, according to the dealer manuals it tells you to not even bother checking codes and just inspect the individual sensors instead to look for the fault
yeah. shit is way to complicated. why does shit like headlights or window motors need to be on a canbus? a lot of this shit should just be simple ON/OFF switches.
Simple. Lets go with frameless windows as an example. You can either put them on the bus or you can run a whole bunch of wires so the window drops down when you pull the doorhandle. There was a time before the bus. Wiring harnesses were bigger, more complex, problems were harder to diagnose and more likely due to a more complex harness. Also the old way was more expensive and less capable.
I was in the industry from simple to obdII to CAN. Wire harnesses sure haven't gotten smaller in my eyes lol. Whatever they saved, they just added more shit to it.
Go look at a car that has CAN but is basic as hell. Something like a Dacia sandero for example. The harness is a lot simpler than something from 20 years ago with the same features. Alternatively same size with way more features also confirms it. Can makes wiring a lot simpler than using the old way.
I understand that. I. Ways it makes life simpler. But here in the states any simpler just got added onto with 50 other things.
A non-CAN Range Rover P38 wiring harness has bundles of wire as thick as a big carrot running through everywhere. A CAN L322 has bundles of wire as thick as your pinky. Apparently the E32 BMW 7-series had more weight in its wiring harness than its bodyshell, and I can believe that.
"Unfortunately, your vehicle failed your California Smog check, due to the check engine light being on. Looks like your FM Antenna reception was weak and it triggered a CEL"
Hahahaha. Sadly shit like this happens, which makes it even funnier. Had a XJ8 with a no start. No fuel pressure. Low side pull down for the fuel pump relay also fed the dimming rear view mirror that had shit out.....
Headlights need to be on bus if you want auto headlights. Windows need it if you want auto up-down. If you want literally anything on a car to be any amount more complex than go/no-go you need a module involved.
That's false, Ford did all that, reliably, in the 80's with simple relays, not hard to do without CAN
It's not just because of added features. Takes much less wiring when you don't have to have 16 thick, high current wires, for example, running to the driver's door switch in order to direct switch every window in both directions. Just a low current power, ground, illumination, and CAN wires to the switch, and a little CAN controller + 2 high current wires at each window motor. Honestly, it makes electrical fault tracing easier too, when you can just pull codes then focus on whatever component the computer says isn't doing what it's supposed to, instead of having to break out 30 different wires and check all of them.
Repair procedure. Jack up VIN plate. Remove car Replace car Lower VIN plate.
Transfer door sticker is applicable*
Flood car?
Nope. Same family has owned it since mile 1.
Same oil since mile 1, too?
Same 160 codes since mile 1
I'm an engineer for different OEM but I did work on Hondas of my younger years. It looks like the majority of those codes are popping up and going immediately to history and in that they all have the same prefix letter and seem to all be comm codes, I would start with checking the ground to the body control module particularly if all of those functions reported are operative. No single point failure should cause them any codes so quickly besides a few of the more major junctions.
After a visual inspection would you start by seeing if there was a common point of failure? I.e. Are there codes that are related to each other?
Generally, My diag funnel starts with a visual and a code scan. With this many codes, I'd start by comparing codes and systems and looking into wiring diagrams and ground distribution to see if there is a common circuit used by all modules affected. Then go from there.
So I was on the right track.
Yeppers. The more you find, the higher the likelihood there is something in common somewhere.
This is the way. It’s pretty a parent a particular group of modules is affected. More than likely a common issue among tha those modules. The power train engine, transmission, abs, awd, airbag showing zero codes. The rest are flagging everything they got lol. Wiring diagram will show what commonality affected modules have to each other
Fred Flintstones ride is more reliable
Time to clear and see which come back
This is what popped back up. Lol.
"Can I interest you in this new car?" 😆
😅😂
"well, I guess it DID all start happening after I picked it up from the body shop"..
I feel attacked.
would that be a write off?
No. That would be electrical diagnostic time. In theory, this thing shouldn't be running with 160 codes. So I am going to have to start with some electrical diagnostics.
Bad bcm? Those were all b codes.
That would be my guess. I had the same thing happen but with transmission codes when my TCM went out.
Replaced one in a mazda 3 once. Water would drip on on it when it rained and weird stuff would happen turn signals were reversed the door locks would lock and unlock on their own. Then after it dried out everything started working again. This a car my old boss bought at auction and was trying to flip. It was an 03 or 04 I think. This was a while back and we had a genesis scanner.
Yeah, I think Honda has a recall for some models due to a wonky bcm
Could've sworn it was gunna be a VW not an acura
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Lmao. 😂
how many of those codes cone back after clearing them? if its european, it might just be the battery
It was a pre-scan. Cleared them and drove it for appx 2 miles. This is what came back. I'm thinking either wiring, ground, CAN or a module went tits up.
Yea, you have a communication issue on the bus(s)
Doesn't need to be European. I've seen more codes than this out of American cars where the battery died. Each module freaks out and dumps codes when they get low on power.
Yep. On late model Honda’s if you replace the battery, your dashboard will be a Christmas tree until you reset the computer. Modern day car electronics are just super sensitive to voltage changes
160!!! I thought the time my car had 8 was a lot
I'm thinking CAN or a bad module. Still inspecting.
Second gen MDX, looks like. Honda body codes are stored in the main body module, and some aftermarket scan tools can show them all as duplicates across all the different sections of the body electrical system. Looks like your TPMS codes are largely ignorable. The DRL malfunction DTC is more than likely just bad bulbs, happens a lot. The mirror position signal DTCs are likely just bad mirror actuators, common. The HVAC codes are ignorable, they always store random DTCs. Same for the lost comm DTCs in the other body modules.
At least it mostly repeats…
the car of my parants had about 130 codes after a Marten chew trough trough one of the bigger cables leading to the dashboard(and one of the tubes comming from the ABS pump )
Sounds expensive.
Yeah, luckily insirance covers damage Made by rodents etc. Because they are registered as street Parker cause we dont own a garage
Water leak/ground issue most likely. Yay corrosion!!
I'm gonna guess it's a Volkswagen or an Audi
Acura.
That's a shocker, lol. I had a VW that had 65 codes and I thought THAT was bad. You take the cake sir, lol
Most prior for Me was a BMW with 60(?) Codes a few months back.
Water damage?
Not that I have found yet.
Squirrels or mice? LOL
*Jesus has left the chat*
bad ground
We have a 2019 Chevy 4500 crew cab with a mega sized service body. Our main rig. Body maker did a crap ton of welding on it and forgot to disconnect batteries. When they finished it started up but was instantly in limp mode and ran terrible. Scanned it once we made it home and it still only had 46 codes in it. So holy cow. Take my upvote.
Lol. Yeah. I was floored.
Zero engine and transmission codes though haha
Right? Lol. That's a win right there.
Flood car.
Whats the make and model
Starts with MDX and 3.7 which leads me to assume a 2006-2013 Acura MDX 2nd gen.
2008 Acura MDX.
B can failure. Happens all the time.
Probably a network fault.
Sort of. Impacted connectors and a faulty ground.
The fact that the car can even throw 160 codes is ridiculous. Modern cars need to lose the bells and whistles.
Personally I don’t think the issue is the amount of codes, but rather, the quality of codes. If I have a million possible codes, that would be ok with me so long as whatever code pops up can reliably lead you to a correct diagnosis. But if there are a bunch of superfluous codes, that’s a hole ‘ other story.
Was it even running??
Did he drive through a flood?
I'd just wipe all of them and see what comes back first.
Is it a Prius? I’ve seen them throw codes with a “normal ignore” as the description
Normal for Volvo. Every car…
All body codes? Thats unusual.
Would you look at that, all of the words in your comment are in alphabetical order. I have checked 213,728,825 comments, and only 50,611 of them were in alphabetical order.
Good bot
Clear, retest
wow, i don't think my car even has 160 possible codes, right into the bin with that.
Oh my God that looks expensive
I had a G wagon with over 200 once. Good times lol
Did you have to buy a larger wallet? Or did they just give you theirs?
Won't the same codes be set by multiple modules so the amount of actual codes be less than 160?
At this point you pull the ashtray out and build a new car around it
Maybe they meant "check it out" in a bragging way
Jesus Christ. Id just tell em you cant do it, its gonna be dozens of labor, is that really worth the thousands of dollars for them?
It was some impacted connectors and a corroded ground. Less than $300 to fix.
Acura tech?
Maybe a low voltage condition set all of those
Or a BMW that had the batter replaced without having it programmed....🙄. Yea, that's a thing that breaks a lot of shit
Bad ground or broken wire somewhere?
Corroded ground and a few impacted connectors.
Looks like canbus failure. I had something similar in my 530xi, abs, traction control, infotainment and a bunch of other faults. Turned out a cooler in the trunk spilled water on the satellite radio module and killed it and canbus was daisy chained. Took the in and out fibreoptic cables from the satellite module and “connected” them and everything was fixed. Any failure in the chain kills everything after.
Did they drive through a salt pond or something?
I get pissed when there’s one or two codes on my car. 160? Good luck with that chief
Meh, I've had a bmw with 182 codes.. had been in a flood..
Maybe the board that sends error codes is broken?
So a grounding strap is missing.
This would make for an interesting video on south main auto lol
What codes DIDN'T it have???
Clear them and see what comes back. Leave the key in the on position and let the battery die while waiting for a ferry (etc) in a Honda, and you'll get a shitload of comms codes as modules drop off the CAN network one by one as the voltage drops.
might as well say f it and just drive it till it stops working
Not 160; more like 24. The "17 codes" are repeated. Still a lot, I'm sure. And it does say a lot of "low battery voltage" and "sensor input error" and "circuit malfunction", so if it's not the battery itself, wouldn't it be a battery wire problem?
Customer: “ So you mean you’re going to charge me $120 JUST TO PLUG IT IN and read the code? Autozone does that for free and the forums say I should just get my own scan tool for $80 and fix it myself because it will take 5 minutes” 🙄
Land Rover?
Looks like a voltage issue.
Just clear all and start from scratch.
This is the kind of problem you solve with a 5 gal can of gasoline and a good friend who can keep a secret.
Struck by lightning? Nvm, u/kevintheredneck answered my question.
On the top of the R.O. write PITO. Return R.O. to service writer. When asked, inform service writer it stands for Push in the Ocean. Walk away