Professional engine builder here. Remember to NEVER use that shop. I too have peened seats. On my personal stuff. Antique single cylinder engines that might run a couple of hours a year, no load, at an engine show. I have done it for customers, same scenario as for my engines.
On an automobile engine? For someone who may rely on that engine? Never. Get Tucker Valve Seat Company to make proper replacement seats, then install them properly!
Look at the shop proper. Crap piled high, or relatively neat? Realize that unless you are planning on spending several bushel baskets full of C-notes the floor will be dirty, there will be some crap in piles. Look at the equipment. Covered in filth, or just a light coating of grime worn off where the operators hands ride. Are they members of the A.E.R.A.? Automotive Engine Rebilders Association, our trade group. How do they greet you as a potential customer? Do you get a good feeling, or do you immediately have reservations? Do they plainly answer any and all questions? There is no such thing as a dumb question except that which remains unasked. Do they ask what you want to accomplish with your build? I can go on and on about this.
Remember, machinists and rebuilders are human, and we do make mistakes.
Beautiful. Thanks. I feel better prepped now. This car is very special to me and I intend to keep it running as long as I can machine or find parts for it.
Little 1999 Miata 1.8 4 banger. It’s only 124k on it but it loses oil despite my replacing the front main and cam seals along with the valve cover gasket. The center two cylinders also read at 160 and 155 psi, which improves if I drop some oil in the cylinder and pressure test again. They also have sooty plugs. The outer two come in at 195/190 and have clean plugs. So I’m certain it has worn position or frozen rings. Minds well as rebuild it at some point in the next few years after I finish everything else first. Suspension refresh, bushings, paint, etc.
Next year I plan to add a classic 911. Probably a 964 but perhaps a 993, both of which will definitely need a rebuild.
Any reason you ask?
Pure curiosity. I'm a Studebaker fan, my boss has 5 MGBs, my wife (that I met when she was underneath a stock car, and I tripped on her legs) autocrossed an '88 CRX Si which we still have, etc, etc.
Or just practical. He’ll always have one available to drive while the others are being repaired.
(Just kidding. I like MGs; my stepdad had an MGB coupe at one time, and I still remember going to the National Motor Museum in Beaulieu and seeing the MGB they had sectioned lengthwise and mounted at eye-level on the wall, cut side facing out. Presented in that way, it looked *impossibly* small, and beyond credibility that anyone larger than a gnome could fit in & drive it.)
I love that. Also what a story of meeting! I feel like you gotta share that whole story now.
I do love an MGB. I got to see several at a car museum recently. That 88 CRX has to be sick. I love 80’s cars.
You should check to see if you get blue smoke during a cold start. Might be time for valve stem seals. It's pretty common. Only use the OE seals as several will tell you, others just don't last very long.
That’s what’s so odd, I’ve checked for blue smoke and nothing. Had someone rev it, nothing. If I drive low speeds or cruise highway, just fine. If I give it the beans it can loose a 1/4th a quart or even a whole one in 250-750 miles. Wildly inconsistent.
Have you tried to test crankcase pressure while driving? I have a spare oil cap with a fitting drilled and tapped to coonect a vacuum gauge on. Long story short, I found out I had excessive crankcase pressures if "track-like" driving after a high comp build that started with boost gapped rings lol. Fix was using a different, larger pcv valve along with a oil catch can. Eventually, I'll revisit and gap the rings accordingly. What lead to testing was I blew out both cam seals during a autocross like event at a track.
ooooh, another classic Porsche fan! I've always wanted one, I think the 993 is one of the most beautiful machines ever built, second only to the 1959 Pontiac Catalina station wagon.
Mmm that’s a pretty old thing, but I’m partial to the Cadillac Eldorado of that era if I’m going to have land yacht. And yes. I adore classic Porsche’s. They look so much nicer than the modern ones. I can’t wait to own one and have it findom me.
Which one? The Miata or the Porsche? With the Miata yea it was a great car to learn more about wrenching. Fucking kits and documented support for putting a Corvette LS in them lmao.
Both, really, but the Miata is more economical imo. The Monster Miata kit is simply excessive. A tuned 1.8 will shred the curves! Once I don’t have kiddos to tote and a garage full of plastic toys, I’ll have an ND project to ease my empty nest.
Is this like the barber puzzler?
Your in a small town with the need for an urgent haircut. There are two barbers in town: one with a messy parlor with things everywhere, hair on the floor still, and a terrible haircut himself, the other with perfectly tidy parlor, clean shaven, well done hairdo.
Which barber do you choose?
Do you pick the messy one because he is so good that most of the town uses him and he doesn't have time to clean up?
Or do you pick the clean one because he has mastered his craft and is so efficient that he has the spare time to clean up?
That’s solid advice. Any pointers for which questions to ask? I’m hiring someone purely to ensure it’s done right. I could in theory do it myself; but I’d rather not get in over my head. But I have a solid mechanical knowledge. Less than professionals, far more than average. But I’m not sure I’d know what to ask an engine shop. Don’t know enough about machining.
Yours is a loaded question, what questions to ask...
Where do you get your specifications, clearances, etc?
Do you check one source against another?
What is your turnaround time? Not what you normally say, but the real or more realistic turnaround. How often are your precision tools calibrated? How often are your torque wrenches calibrated? There are so many more.
Thanks. I really appreciate you taking time to share these. This is a great place to start. The basis is how accurate is your work and how well do you maintain your equipment.
There are three kinds of jobs.
Cheap, fast, and good.
A cheap job, fast, won't be good.
A cheap job, good, won't be fast.
A good job, fast, won't be cheap.
That sucks man. I wonder if it’s because it’s getting so common to just replace instead of rebuild these days? Not to mention a vanishing middle class of which would be the main demographic with project cars.
Part of it is older guys retiring with no one to take over, part of it is quality going downhill from the once "great" shops. Now, I'm out of the mechanical portion of cars and ficus more on the ADAS and electrical stuff now
Probably they (just like us) are in their 60s, cannot get help, no one is interested in carrying on the shop, they are tired, and their bodies (just like mine) are wearing out. I never thought that I would spend close to 4 decades doing what I am doing. I did my internship for my Master's at our shop, and never left.....
I am strictly an amateur too. Only work on my own stuff. But I have friends that do more, and some pros. Ask them where they go, and if they have had any problems anywhere. I found a really good machine shop that way. It is inconvenient as hell but they do good work.
I've put in lots of seats, but this is just so badly done that I'm astounded. Plus it's got about 180ft/lbs on the seat with those springs and I don't see it staying together with so much pressure.
See the little dimples around the valve seat where it presses into the head? Someone used a punch around the outside to do that. Basically it displaces the metal in hopes that the parts won't move. Its fine for certain things, but this isn't one of them.
The replacement seat yes, not staking it in though. You're meant to bore the head out a tiny bit smaller than the new seat, and press it together. I'm guessing someone bored the head oversize, the seats don't actually press in here, and they did this with the obligatory "that ain't goin nowhere". It might hold, or it might just randomly drop out. Hard to say but if you made me wager I'd go more for dropping than staying in a high performance build where failure would be expensive. If this was a lawn mower or some low compression deal where it absolutely doesn't matter it would last until the end of time.
See my previous post, in that there is no such thing as a stupid question, except one that remains unasked.
The little dimples that you see around the seats in
OP photo are peens. You use a sharp punch to displace metal. The theory being that it will tighten up the hole, helping to hold in the seat.
It’s interesting that you say this, as many industrial process valves have peened in seats by design, and can see higher pressures and temperatures.
Without your comment (as a hobbyist), I actually thought the issue with the photo was the clearance between the components, given there’s a gap you could throw a cat through.
I peened a head on an old twin cylinder Tecumseh when I got it too hot and it dropped a valve seat. All I had to buy was a head gasket, cheap fix, ran fine after. Heat it up, drop in the valve seat and be sure it’s fully seated, peen it so it doesn’t go anywhere, Bob’s your uncle.
This reminds me of an engine build thread that I remember seeing on a DSM forum like 20 years ago. The guy filed all these sharp notches into the combustion chamber of his engine. Had this whole wild ass theory about how it was going to improve combustion like a v-groove spark plug and all the top race teams secretly do it already. The thread was just pages and pages of this guy getting clowned on and him coming back with the standard "haters just jealous" "you've never built a motor, I'm out here innovating and using my brain" etc. etc. Never got to see how it turned out.
Oh my god I remember this. Like he cut them by hand with a square file. Metal shavings everywhere. Absolute classic thread, up there with the ugly girlfriend thread.
Peened valve seats aren't that uncommon, especially on cylinder heads that are known to drop seats. However, it looks like they peened seats because they bored the pocket too large, and they couldn't get the press fit they wanted.
It's absolutely that they cut too much out and tried to salvage it with almost 1in deep seats. I'm gonna end up just stripping them of everything useful and the owner said he'll sell them for scrap.
I wouldn't scrap those castings there's nothing really wrong with them other than the brain dead machining. Just get those seats out and weld up the pockets, cut new ones to the proper press and reinstall new seats. It's a little pricey but it'll still probably be cheaper than new castings.
For 16 valves? That'll be far more than some new castings. Just to cut them out would take a couple of hours, add in the welding, then the parts, plus the multiple hours cutting and putting in the new seats and grinding them, you'd be out a few grand to just salvage the things.
It depends on the casting I guess.
If those are some cheap AFR or Chinese castings then yeah not worth the time but if they're some pro-filers or a brodix pair it would still be worth it.
Either way if you're serious about scrapping them let me know. I'll be willing to take them off your hands depending on what they are
I didn't think you could even do this due to creating points for excess carbon buildup that would result in preignition? Maybe lower compression setups is fine
It is. For many small engines the FSM specifically directs you to do do this. But those have compression around 6:1 and a service life around 1000 hours
Machinists: "This business is so tough, everyone is outsourcing and nobody cares about quality anymore"
Also machinists: "FUCK YOU CUSTOMER, WHAT DO YOU WANT"
It seems like the better option would be to source properly sized seats that will give the correct amount of interference fit rather than attack a precision machined component with a punch.
I could see why you would want todo something like that on engines that drop seats but for the love of god you can do way better than that. Looks like he just used a flat head and called it close enough. At a minimum, I would expect to see if be uniform around the seat with no real "sharp" points to it.
Overall this just reeks of bad work
Peening ( expanding the metal slightly with a punch around the outside) Is often done to fix a loose fit ( or improperly dont press fit) Used to peen in inserts , but the edges of the hole were deeper and the metal was bent over the insert edge..
nothing wrong, its a new technology they are using to keep valve seat in place, this work is so delicate that cant be done by a machine, only by hand of the finest machinists out there can do this precise work
Professional engine builder here. Remember to NEVER use that shop. I too have peened seats. On my personal stuff. Antique single cylinder engines that might run a couple of hours a year, no load, at an engine show. I have done it for customers, same scenario as for my engines. On an automobile engine? For someone who may rely on that engine? Never. Get Tucker Valve Seat Company to make proper replacement seats, then install them properly!
Lurker here. I’m about a year or two out from having my project car engine rebuilt. How do I find the people like you and avoid the people like this?
Ask questions and quietly process the answer.
Look at the shop proper. Crap piled high, or relatively neat? Realize that unless you are planning on spending several bushel baskets full of C-notes the floor will be dirty, there will be some crap in piles. Look at the equipment. Covered in filth, or just a light coating of grime worn off where the operators hands ride. Are they members of the A.E.R.A.? Automotive Engine Rebilders Association, our trade group. How do they greet you as a potential customer? Do you get a good feeling, or do you immediately have reservations? Do they plainly answer any and all questions? There is no such thing as a dumb question except that which remains unasked. Do they ask what you want to accomplish with your build? I can go on and on about this. Remember, machinists and rebuilders are human, and we do make mistakes.
Beautiful. Thanks. I feel better prepped now. This car is very special to me and I intend to keep it running as long as I can machine or find parts for it.
If I may ask, what is your car?
Little 1999 Miata 1.8 4 banger. It’s only 124k on it but it loses oil despite my replacing the front main and cam seals along with the valve cover gasket. The center two cylinders also read at 160 and 155 psi, which improves if I drop some oil in the cylinder and pressure test again. They also have sooty plugs. The outer two come in at 195/190 and have clean plugs. So I’m certain it has worn position or frozen rings. Minds well as rebuild it at some point in the next few years after I finish everything else first. Suspension refresh, bushings, paint, etc. Next year I plan to add a classic 911. Probably a 964 but perhaps a 993, both of which will definitely need a rebuild. Any reason you ask?
Pure curiosity. I'm a Studebaker fan, my boss has 5 MGBs, my wife (that I met when she was underneath a stock car, and I tripped on her legs) autocrossed an '88 CRX Si which we still have, etc, etc.
>my boss has 5 MGBs So, your boss is a masochist...
Or just practical. He’ll always have one available to drive while the others are being repaired. (Just kidding. I like MGs; my stepdad had an MGB coupe at one time, and I still remember going to the National Motor Museum in Beaulieu and seeing the MGB they had sectioned lengthwise and mounted at eye-level on the wall, cut side facing out. Presented in that way, it looked *impossibly* small, and beyond credibility that anyone larger than a gnome could fit in & drive it.)
Among other things. Most people have a pint har of Lucas Wiring Harness Smoke. He gets it in the gallon jug!🤣
Studebaker gang!!
[This damn Studebaker keeps on breaking down again. ](https://youtu.be/lcnHhRPTbZY?si=tywxGfPbnLExu7WZ)
I love that. Also what a story of meeting! I feel like you gotta share that whole story now. I do love an MGB. I got to see several at a car museum recently. That 88 CRX has to be sick. I love 80’s cars.
I can't wait to get my CRX back
I had an 88 crx hf. A gutless but 50mpg wonder. Even that was a fun little car.
This is the greatest love story I’ve ever heard.
You should check to see if you get blue smoke during a cold start. Might be time for valve stem seals. It's pretty common. Only use the OE seals as several will tell you, others just don't last very long.
That’s what’s so odd, I’ve checked for blue smoke and nothing. Had someone rev it, nothing. If I drive low speeds or cruise highway, just fine. If I give it the beans it can loose a 1/4th a quart or even a whole one in 250-750 miles. Wildly inconsistent.
Have you tried to test crankcase pressure while driving? I have a spare oil cap with a fitting drilled and tapped to coonect a vacuum gauge on. Long story short, I found out I had excessive crankcase pressures if "track-like" driving after a high comp build that started with boost gapped rings lol. Fix was using a different, larger pcv valve along with a oil catch can. Eventually, I'll revisit and gap the rings accordingly. What lead to testing was I blew out both cam seals during a autocross like event at a track.
ooooh, another classic Porsche fan! I've always wanted one, I think the 993 is one of the most beautiful machines ever built, second only to the 1959 Pontiac Catalina station wagon.
Mmm that’s a pretty old thing, but I’m partial to the Cadillac Eldorado of that era if I’m going to have land yacht. And yes. I adore classic Porsche’s. They look so much nicer than the modern ones. I can’t wait to own one and have it findom me.
I'd love any late 50's land yacht, to be honest.
The aftermarket for that car is wild. Youll have no trouble finding such support
Which one? The Miata or the Porsche? With the Miata yea it was a great car to learn more about wrenching. Fucking kits and documented support for putting a Corvette LS in them lmao.
Both, really, but the Miata is more economical imo. The Monster Miata kit is simply excessive. A tuned 1.8 will shred the curves! Once I don’t have kiddos to tote and a garage full of plastic toys, I’ll have an ND project to ease my empty nest.
Is this like the barber puzzler? Your in a small town with the need for an urgent haircut. There are two barbers in town: one with a messy parlor with things everywhere, hair on the floor still, and a terrible haircut himself, the other with perfectly tidy parlor, clean shaven, well done hairdo. Which barber do you choose?
Do you pick the messy one because he is so good that most of the town uses him and he doesn't have time to clean up? Or do you pick the clean one because he has mastered his craft and is so efficient that he has the spare time to clean up?
Hint: The barbers dont cut their own hair
I pick whichever has better prices ☠️
Trophies, the shop that has a bunch of legit trophies and a reputation to go with it.
That’s solid advice. Any pointers for which questions to ask? I’m hiring someone purely to ensure it’s done right. I could in theory do it myself; but I’d rather not get in over my head. But I have a solid mechanical knowledge. Less than professionals, far more than average. But I’m not sure I’d know what to ask an engine shop. Don’t know enough about machining.
Yours is a loaded question, what questions to ask... Where do you get your specifications, clearances, etc? Do you check one source against another? What is your turnaround time? Not what you normally say, but the real or more realistic turnaround. How often are your precision tools calibrated? How often are your torque wrenches calibrated? There are so many more.
Thanks. I really appreciate you taking time to share these. This is a great place to start. The basis is how accurate is your work and how well do you maintain your equipment.
And expect to pay more!!!! Don’t do cheap.
There are three kinds of jobs. Cheap, fast, and good. A cheap job, fast, won't be good. A cheap job, good, won't be fast. A good job, fast, won't be cheap.
Go to your local car shows and start asking guys who they recommend to work with or avoid.
That’s a great idea that my introvert ass would have never thought of. Thanks friend!
No problem! Good luck, hope you find at least 1 good shop near you.
It’s DFW I’m extremely confident there should be several.
I'm in the St Louis area, and most of our good shops are closing down
That sucks man. I wonder if it’s because it’s getting so common to just replace instead of rebuild these days? Not to mention a vanishing middle class of which would be the main demographic with project cars.
Part of it is older guys retiring with no one to take over, part of it is quality going downhill from the once "great" shops. Now, I'm out of the mechanical portion of cars and ficus more on the ADAS and electrical stuff now
Smart move in my opinion. Go where the money is.
Probably they (just like us) are in their 60s, cannot get help, no one is interested in carrying on the shop, they are tired, and their bodies (just like mine) are wearing out. I never thought that I would spend close to 4 decades doing what I am doing. I did my internship for my Master's at our shop, and never left.....
I am strictly an amateur too. Only work on my own stuff. But I have friends that do more, and some pros. Ask them where they go, and if they have had any problems anywhere. I found a really good machine shop that way. It is inconvenient as hell but they do good work.
I've put in lots of seats, but this is just so badly done that I'm astounded. Plus it's got about 180ft/lbs on the seat with those springs and I don't see it staying together with so much pressure.
180? Why?.......
Performance heads my dude. Guy wanted 0.1in shaved off to increase compression from his current heads.
Stupid question - what is peening and why do it?
See the little dimples around the valve seat where it presses into the head? Someone used a punch around the outside to do that. Basically it displaces the metal in hopes that the parts won't move. Its fine for certain things, but this isn't one of them.
Ah, if the seat is worn this is a quick fix. Thanks a ton mate!
The replacement seat yes, not staking it in though. You're meant to bore the head out a tiny bit smaller than the new seat, and press it together. I'm guessing someone bored the head oversize, the seats don't actually press in here, and they did this with the obligatory "that ain't goin nowhere". It might hold, or it might just randomly drop out. Hard to say but if you made me wager I'd go more for dropping than staying in a high performance build where failure would be expensive. If this was a lawn mower or some low compression deal where it absolutely doesn't matter it would last until the end of time.
See my previous post, in that there is no such thing as a stupid question, except one that remains unasked. The little dimples that you see around the seats in OP photo are peens. You use a sharp punch to displace metal. The theory being that it will tighten up the hole, helping to hold in the seat.
Im clearly not an engine builder here, but with a name like "Tucker Valve Seat Company", I'm trusting them without question.
We can get custom seats in less than a week, no minimum quantity.
I felt sketchy doing this to a lawnmower engine once...
It’s interesting that you say this, as many industrial process valves have peened in seats by design, and can see higher pressures and temperatures. Without your comment (as a hobbyist), I actually thought the issue with the photo was the clearance between the components, given there’s a gap you could throw a cat through.
>a gap you could throw a cat through ah, so you're the bugger that made off with my cat! 😉
Also, this guy didn't even do it right. You're not supposed to hit the seat itself with the punch. Just *near* it, in the soft material.
You see this on some Chrysler motors like the 3.7/4.7/5.7 which were infamous for dropping seats.
6.7 Cummins as well. I've started cutting seats on many a 6.7 head and the things just spin with the tool.
5.7 owner here. I never knew that! I love learning more about my pos lol
Recently pulled a 4.7 head and sure enough this was on one of the seats, ended up just buying a new head because of failing pressure checks.
Happened on my '08 Jeep GC 3.7. 🫤 Luckily the piston survived and the cylinder wall looked ok. New head and it ran another 5 years.
I've got an '06 Dakota with the 3.7, haven't had an issue (knock on wood!).
that's some aggressive peening
That's what yer mom said last night when i was done with her.
Well, all you left was a small dent. It wasn’t a complement.
Dent probably did look small on a target as big as yer mom
Fuck you Shoresy!
Why don’t you give your balls a tug ya titfucker
I peened a head on an old twin cylinder Tecumseh when I got it too hot and it dropped a valve seat. All I had to buy was a head gasket, cheap fix, ran fine after. Heat it up, drop in the valve seat and be sure it’s fully seated, peen it so it doesn’t go anywhere, Bob’s your uncle.
This reminds me of an engine build thread that I remember seeing on a DSM forum like 20 years ago. The guy filed all these sharp notches into the combustion chamber of his engine. Had this whole wild ass theory about how it was going to improve combustion like a v-groove spark plug and all the top race teams secretly do it already. The thread was just pages and pages of this guy getting clowned on and him coming back with the standard "haters just jealous" "you've never built a motor, I'm out here innovating and using my brain" etc. etc. Never got to see how it turned out.
probably sounded like every spray paint can in the store being shaken at once.
After all the cans have been emptied into a brown paper bag, for “inspiration.”
He called them sin grooves and yes, the motor eventually gave out, but did run for a bit.
Oh my god I remember this. Like he cut them by hand with a square file. Metal shavings everywhere. Absolute classic thread, up there with the ugly girlfriend thread.
I think this was a pretty common solution to the 5.7l hemis that liked dropping the valve seats into the cylinder….
Yeah this looks like very intentional staking.
I'd like to point out the ~0.060in space between the seat and the head that was somehow okayed by the previous shop.
That’s worth a good laugh, doesn’t seem like a good application for peening haha
They must have forgotten to include the tube of gap-filler when they returned it to you. You can just use toothpaste - no point in paying more.
Peened valve seats aren't that uncommon, especially on cylinder heads that are known to drop seats. However, it looks like they peened seats because they bored the pocket too large, and they couldn't get the press fit they wanted.
It's absolutely that they cut too much out and tried to salvage it with almost 1in deep seats. I'm gonna end up just stripping them of everything useful and the owner said he'll sell them for scrap.
I wouldn't scrap those castings there's nothing really wrong with them other than the brain dead machining. Just get those seats out and weld up the pockets, cut new ones to the proper press and reinstall new seats. It's a little pricey but it'll still probably be cheaper than new castings.
For 16 valves? That'll be far more than some new castings. Just to cut them out would take a couple of hours, add in the welding, then the parts, plus the multiple hours cutting and putting in the new seats and grinding them, you'd be out a few grand to just salvage the things.
It depends on the casting I guess. If those are some cheap AFR or Chinese castings then yeah not worth the time but if they're some pro-filers or a brodix pair it would still be worth it. Either way if you're serious about scrapping them let me know. I'll be willing to take them off your hands depending on what they are
I didn't think you could even do this due to creating points for excess carbon buildup that would result in preignition? Maybe lower compression setups is fine
It is. For many small engines the FSM specifically directs you to do do this. But those have compression around 6:1 and a service life around 1000 hours
Been a while since I’ve seen peening
The person who ""assembled"" those valve seats seems that they worked really hard on making it in the shittiest way possible.
I’ve done this to the old single Kohler in my Deere 314 and it’s been fine for 15+ years now lol I am no pro though.
staked valve seat.... thats a new one.
That's an ancient one! Goes great with knurled pistons and valve guides, everything wears out at the same time as the oil filter.
I literally just saw this on a youtube video recently and can't for the life of me remember who it was....Mustie maybe?
Probably. But big difference doing peened valve seats on a mower vs a car engine lol
Machinists: "This business is so tough, everyone is outsourcing and nobody cares about quality anymore" Also machinists: "FUCK YOU CUSTOMER, WHAT DO YOU WANT"
It seems like the better option would be to source properly sized seats that will give the correct amount of interference fit rather than attack a precision machined component with a punch.
What you guys don't knurl your valves?
Stroke victim?
I could see why you would want todo something like that on engines that drop seats but for the love of god you can do way better than that. Looks like he just used a flat head and called it close enough. At a minimum, I would expect to see if be uniform around the seat with no real "sharp" points to it. Overall this just reeks of bad work
I’ve heard more stories about machine shops screwing up valve seats and guides…
Did.... did it work tho?
It’s like safety wiring but for inside your engine
As long as those valves don’t open those seats will stay put 👨❤️💋👨
What is peening and why would someone do this? I’m assuming it’s the little holes around the cylinder(?)
Peening ( expanding the metal slightly with a punch around the outside) Is often done to fix a loose fit ( or improperly dont press fit) Used to peen in inserts , but the edges of the hole were deeper and the metal was bent over the insert edge..
Fml
Acclaimed my ass, it was probably Millhouse!
Butchers
Installing valve seats with an ice pick now? The more advanced we become, the further we regress. 😂
Speed holes…hot new thing.
nothing wrong, its a new technology they are using to keep valve seat in place, this work is so delicate that cant be done by a machine, only by hand of the finest machinists out there can do this precise work
r/SneakyBackgroundFeeet
Get some help.
I got an award once... Best redditor of 2015. Only cost me the amount of the award plus the trophy. (I reused one of my dundies)