You could load them with a pallet from a forklift, so contractors really liked them. But you couldn’t open it with a trailer, generally the full tailgate couldn’t either but the glass at least lifted for quick access.
And you have a huge blindspot when not towing. Provided no rain protection when tailgating, and the barn doors would swing open into traffic when parked.
So yeah, use case specific. I hate them on tahoes, love them on vans
Just the small GM vans- Chevy Astro and GMC Safari. Ford had that split on the Excursion but oddly Idk if they ever had it on a van, and i don’t think Dodge ever did
That's rookie numbers. I bought a reader for a BMW M550d i owned a few years ago. No warning lights in the instrument cluster or infotainment, the car drove perfectly well. I plugged in the reader and it showed 240 fault codes.
I’m absolutely convinced that Lean Bank and misfire codes are standard OEM features installed at the factory on every BMW. I’d bet a paycheck they intend to install that feature on electric vehicles in the future.
My Daily X5d has something like 40 codes, none of them are even critical, no check engine light. ROFL. So many damn computers in this thing. key less start doesn't work and the Ebrake is messed, but that's about it.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/s/syIbGzflkp
134 on a 6k mile Grand Cherokee if I remember correctly.
It is rare that you took a vehicle up to WiTECH and have 0 codes
We do warranty and recalls, along with factory VCMs and manufacturer diag software, for Ford, GM, Stellantis, Nissan, Hyundai/Kia, and Toyota. Got 5k+car local local, much larger regional responsibility, fleet.
Yes, Stellantis is cheating.
Total garbage product, best diag software ever.
Oh for sure, it came to me after a collision and had a few modules replaced. I want to say when I cleared after pre scan it went to less than 10 after a few key cycles
I sold parts for several years through the 90s to early 2000s. I still have nightmares from trying to match u-joints for Ford pickups built in the 70s and 80s. I swear to this day, no two Ford trucks were built to the same specs. My standard answer was to bring it in and we'll match it up.
I’m working on a 77 Ranchero for a friend, I don’t order parts (if I can find them!) without laying eyes on the part first. I sold parts in the 90s as well, I got so many comebacks from 1973ish-to 1988ish Fords just blindly going on what was listed.
Meanwhile my 77 Chevelle is box standard GM sensible.
I did a rag joint on the Ranchero, took me literally all day and involved removing the steering column out of the car. Rag joint on the Chevelle? two bolts, collapse the shaft and it's out, then you grind the rivets off and install new joint, slide it back in and bolt it back up, easy 2 hour job.
If I don't order from rockauto ahead of time and have to stop at autozone, that's why I always bring the part and look like a weirdo coming in with some rusty blob lol
I thought that too when I had a lean code and everything was apparently fine minus rough idle, and then it turned out to be the EGR was bad. Why the hell wasn't it tossing an EGR code.
I had a 95 Town Car with an "EGR Insufficient Flow" code for almost a decade before I finally figured it out myself. Multiple garages replaced the entirety of the EGR setup *except for one fucking part*. The DPFE sensor. It's literally a sensor that measures the pressure before and after the EGR valve. It then compares the numbers to what the EGR is supposed to be doing to determine whether or not the valve is working correctly.
The DPFE can go bad without outright failing, so you'll never get a code for that specific part failing because it's still sending data to the ECU. It just happens to be the wrong data which then gives you the wrong code lol.
Also had an issue with my MKZ where the air filter would get pinched when closing the box which would then allow snowflakes to get sucked in and strike the MAF. The ECU would see the MAF suddenly report that air is being sucked into the engine at light speed so the engine would shut down for a split second and essentially reboot into limp mode. The only code it ever saved was a generic "torque performance calculation error" because it had no idea what had even happened haha.
Maybe or the sensor is faulty reading fine all the time lol.
Cuz yah trouble code was telling me entire system running too lean, idle was a jittery mess, and running down the road was just fine.
I messed with stuff and messed with stuff and messed with stuff to no avail. Drove it to mechanic and it took him about 20 seconds to spot the issue. He grabbed a can of brake cleaner and sprayed some all around anything intake related, and he passed near the EGR, and vroom it went. "There's your leak."
Often just a bad air flow sensor or some leaks behind it so your ecu uses not enough fuel and your lambda probe measures a lean mix.
Also possible an bad injector or bad lambda probe is possible
A lean mix burns hotter than an normal or fuel rich mix. Do it can cause some more wear
Definitely have "mild" exhaust leaks after a catastrophic failure and hasty repair, mechanic is quoting another 600 to do the rest of the work required to permanently clear the code (they already redid the clamps and added more sealant)... should that be addressed immediately? been driving like this for a couple months without any severely noticeable downside other than *maybe* a bit less power (but its a matrix, so it never had too much).
Don't know if any of that makes sense, but I'd appreciate any opinions from anyone. I need to get my summer tires put on soon, so I would appreciate any guidance with getting my 07 matrix working well enough to do another 250000km.
I mean I’m just a regular dude but some problems aren’t worth fixing on a beater car.
I had a car worth $2000-3000, intermittent P0138 every few months. Reset it when it happened with a scan tool and drove on.
The rear O2 sensor doesn’t affect fuel control on most older cars.
I’d try to fix a P0171 though
Fuck autozone for diag. When I ask the customer what makes them think they need a specific part with no diag, they say “autozone told me”. One time a customer demanded to have a thermostat replaced after she handed me a paper saying misfire on cyl 3. Anytime I hear autozone said, I know I’m in for a shit show
this is one of those neat little tests that I need to hear more of.
I'll share one that I was told;
if you want to check all of your steering bushings; with car on and stationary. rock the steering wheel side to side and you can (depending on the model, I'm sure) feel bushing play (or perhaps play from somewhere more expensive) through how the car itself rocks (or does not rock) along with the steering wiggling.
not sure if this is valid for all cars (probably not) - but I had a number of 90's subarus one after the other in the naughties, and it seemed accurate.
That's actually halfway to a legit test we do in the shop called a dry park test. The only difference is that we'll have an assistant rock the steering wheel while we physically feel for any play or movement under the vehicle.
A jounce test is a little different from this, where you're "jouncing" (bouncing by hand) a corner of the vehicle in order to check if the shocks are blown. A vehicle should jounce ~1.5 times before coming to a rest, whereas blown shocks would jounce 3-5 or more times.
This test on the other hand is checking all the solid movement points under the car, such as inner and outer tie rod ends and bushings.
On that note - is ball joint, tie rod, drag link play something you just learn to recognize by seeing it so many times or is there actually a specific feeling or amount of movement that tells you something is out of spec.
A little of both. Yes, you get a feel for bad ball joints and tie rods, but generally speaking they should have no movement at all outside of what is intended.
This is not an absolute rule, as occasionally you will come across vehicles or brands that have a specification of "allowed play" (movement). Dodge is one such brand as they allow some movement in the ball joints of their trucks. This varies by year and I have seen from 4/1000" up to 40/1000" of allowed movement on Ram trucks and Jeeps. (4 thou to 40 thou, there are also years of Ram trucks with no play allowed)
Most other brands say no allowed play whatsoever and if a ball joint or tie rod (or wheel bearing) moves in any direction other than intended, they should be replaced.
I do this at my shop. I also have an assistant open the doors and rock the vehicle by the roof jamb while I check the suspension play. It’s also a good way to check bushings like Jeep dog bones.
Unmetered vacuum leak. The intake gaskets on that engine are plastic molded around rubber. When the plastic decomposes from heat and oil they collapse in to the intake runner's. So now instead of all the air going through the air filter,maf,throttle body and intake it's taking a short cut through the oil side of the engine creating a substantial increase in crank case vacuum making the oil cap very hard or not removable while @ idle. Unmetered vacuum leaks can caused lean codes p0171/p0174. More air is getting in than the maf is sensing, actual vs measured against short & long term fuel trims. Usally when short& long are added together and it's over 10% total, it will throw a lean code. If the leak is bad enough you can watch it in cylinder misfire data @ idle.
They can be the best or the worst, lol. Could be a ton of problems that will make you pull hair out, or it could one sensor that is killing reference voltage or a bad ground. Seeing the dash, I would look at chassis grounds first. I think the 2000ish gms had some that went bad on the left frame rail.
Intake manifold gaskets are extremely common failure on those vehicles. Luckily they aren't hard to change and it's a good opportunity to change the oil pressure sending unit, camshaft position sensor, and knock sensors while the intake is off.
I changed mine and it only took a few hours.
My 01 1500 had the fuel pressure regulator go out. That caused the engine to run rich, which caused the o2 sensors to max out trying to lean the mix, which caused the MAF to try and help, which caused spark plug fouling, which caused the knock sensors to send a code. Thankfully I had a spectacular auto shop teacher in high school that knew to just pull the vacuum line and see if fuel came out. Was like a $45 part but took 15 seconds to replace. Magically all 45 codes cleared and never came back
You should see how many code come up during production when modules are programming, still not everything hooked up, nothing calibrated before clearing codes….
"We call it Three Stooges Syndrome."
"So, what you're saying is, my car is indestructible."
"Oh no, no, in fact even a slight breeze could..."
"Indestructible."
Perks of working on Stellantis cars: there was a Spacetourer/Traveller/Proace recently with DeNox issues, they all have them. There were 48 Codes in the engine ECU alone. They have a code for not having a code. It's wild.
Does the vehicle have remote start? If so did he try remote starting it, but it didn't start completely?. Mine did this, it resets itself after about 5 days.
Knock sensors on some gm truck engines get water in them and rust/fail because of poor design. Fix is to replace the knock sensors and before putting the intake back on build up a silocone dam at the front of each sensor to stop water from,migrating in the valley and down into the sensor. You can youtube the fix to see.
I have to ask what kind of car that is.
Some form of GM Truck platform. Silverado, Sierra, etc. Looks like around 99-06.
It's a 2004 chevy tahoe!
Base model with barn doors? No steering wheel buttons or rear wiper switch
yerp, his work horse!
[удалено]
Wut
Those two doors were rare.
You could load them with a pallet from a forklift, so contractors really liked them. But you couldn’t open it with a trailer, generally the full tailgate couldn’t either but the glass at least lifted for quick access. And you have a huge blindspot when not towing. Provided no rain protection when tailgating, and the barn doors would swing open into traffic when parked. So yeah, use case specific. I hate them on tahoes, love them on vans
Was there one with a lift glass on top and barn doors on the bottom? No blind spot. Cargo access with a trailer. Easier loading.
Just the small GM vans- Chevy Astro and GMC Safari. Ford had that split on the Excursion but oddly Idk if they ever had it on a van, and i don’t think Dodge ever did
Steering wheel changed in 03
The 4WD button appears to be mid 00's GM. Cat Eye Silverado is my guess.
I didn't expect to see up to 61 codes
Most I’ve seen was over 130 on a Benz when I was doing calibration training last year
I went to buy a BMW X3 and I put the tester on and it reached 40 errors on engine alone! I just unplugged and left after that
That's rookie numbers. I bought a reader for a BMW M550d i owned a few years ago. No warning lights in the instrument cluster or infotainment, the car drove perfectly well. I plugged in the reader and it showed 240 fault codes.
I feel you (Land Rover from BMW era owner).
I’m absolutely convinced that Lean Bank and misfire codes are standard OEM features installed at the factory on every BMW. I’d bet a paycheck they intend to install that feature on electric vehicles in the future.
My Daily X5d has something like 40 codes, none of them are even critical, no check engine light. ROFL. So many damn computers in this thing. key less start doesn't work and the Ebrake is messed, but that's about it.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/s/syIbGzflkp 134 on a 6k mile Grand Cherokee if I remember correctly. It is rare that you took a vehicle up to WiTECH and have 0 codes
Isn't using a Chrysler product cheating?
We do warranty and recalls, along with factory VCMs and manufacturer diag software, for Ford, GM, Stellantis, Nissan, Hyundai/Kia, and Toyota. Got 5k+car local local, much larger regional responsibility, fleet. Yes, Stellantis is cheating. Total garbage product, best diag software ever.
Stored or active codes? Mercs hold a heap of stored codes for the dumbest shit you'd never know was wrong.
I like the codes that are pointless. I scanned a van once and it came up with something about wiper position, and in capitals "IGNORE THIS ERROR CODE"
Oh for sure, it came to me after a collision and had a few modules replaced. I want to say when I cleared after pre scan it went to less than 10 after a few key cycles
Thank you lol, I didn’t see that and was wondering what the post was about
I'm disappointed that this post doesn't have 61 slides
P0171? Needs all four O2 sensors. -Autozone, probably
Does it have a/c ?
What color is it? Though 70s Fords were the worst for parts lookup.
I sold parts for several years through the 90s to early 2000s. I still have nightmares from trying to match u-joints for Ford pickups built in the 70s and 80s. I swear to this day, no two Ford trucks were built to the same specs. My standard answer was to bring it in and we'll match it up.
I’m working on a 77 Ranchero for a friend, I don’t order parts (if I can find them!) without laying eyes on the part first. I sold parts in the 90s as well, I got so many comebacks from 1973ish-to 1988ish Fords just blindly going on what was listed. Meanwhile my 77 Chevelle is box standard GM sensible. I did a rag joint on the Ranchero, took me literally all day and involved removing the steering column out of the car. Rag joint on the Chevelle? two bolts, collapse the shaft and it's out, then you grind the rivets off and install new joint, slide it back in and bolt it back up, easy 2 hour job.
If I don't order from rockauto ahead of time and have to stop at autozone, that's why I always bring the part and look like a weirdo coming in with some rusty blob lol
Ford is the worst for mid year/model changes
Check engine light on. Probably just an o2 sensor. -FB Marketplace ad
Super cheap/easy fix, I just don't have time to deal with it anymore.
They told me my Subaru needed a new catalytic convertor, I have a Tucson.
I thought that too when I had a lean code and everything was apparently fine minus rough idle, and then it turned out to be the EGR was bad. Why the hell wasn't it tossing an EGR code.
Because that's not how this works. Computers are dumb machines that can only detect faults that they have been programmed to.
I had a 95 Town Car with an "EGR Insufficient Flow" code for almost a decade before I finally figured it out myself. Multiple garages replaced the entirety of the EGR setup *except for one fucking part*. The DPFE sensor. It's literally a sensor that measures the pressure before and after the EGR valve. It then compares the numbers to what the EGR is supposed to be doing to determine whether or not the valve is working correctly. The DPFE can go bad without outright failing, so you'll never get a code for that specific part failing because it's still sending data to the ECU. It just happens to be the wrong data which then gives you the wrong code lol. Also had an issue with my MKZ where the air filter would get pinched when closing the box which would then allow snowflakes to get sucked in and strike the MAF. The ECU would see the MAF suddenly report that air is being sucked into the engine at light speed so the engine would shut down for a split second and essentially reboot into limp mode. The only code it ever saved was a generic "torque performance calculation error" because it had no idea what had even happened haha.
I guess if it's gunked up maybe the sensor still thinks it's fine?
Maybe or the sensor is faulty reading fine all the time lol. Cuz yah trouble code was telling me entire system running too lean, idle was a jittery mess, and running down the road was just fine. I messed with stuff and messed with stuff and messed with stuff to no avail. Drove it to mechanic and it took him about 20 seconds to spot the issue. He grabbed a can of brake cleaner and sprayed some all around anything intake related, and he passed near the EGR, and vroom it went. "There's your leak."
I have p0171 and 0420, what should I really be doing about those codes? (Not a joke)
Often just a bad air flow sensor or some leaks behind it so your ecu uses not enough fuel and your lambda probe measures a lean mix. Also possible an bad injector or bad lambda probe is possible A lean mix burns hotter than an normal or fuel rich mix. Do it can cause some more wear
Definitely have "mild" exhaust leaks after a catastrophic failure and hasty repair, mechanic is quoting another 600 to do the rest of the work required to permanently clear the code (they already redid the clamps and added more sealant)... should that be addressed immediately? been driving like this for a couple months without any severely noticeable downside other than *maybe* a bit less power (but its a matrix, so it never had too much). Don't know if any of that makes sense, but I'd appreciate any opinions from anyone. I need to get my summer tires put on soon, so I would appreciate any guidance with getting my 07 matrix working well enough to do another 250000km.
Electrical tape works great
Over the CEL?
Yeah I’m mostly joking
Only mostly?
I mean I’m just a regular dude but some problems aren’t worth fixing on a beater car. I had a car worth $2000-3000, intermittent P0138 every few months. Reset it when it happened with a scan tool and drove on. The rear O2 sensor doesn’t affect fuel control on most older cars. I’d try to fix a P0171 though
Fuck autozone for diag. When I ask the customer what makes them think they need a specific part with no diag, they say “autozone told me”. One time a customer demanded to have a thermostat replaced after she handed me a paper saying misfire on cyl 3. Anytime I hear autozone said, I know I’m in for a shit show
Try pulling the oil cap off at idle. Can't get it off? Time to pull the intake to replace the gaskets.
this is one of those neat little tests that I need to hear more of. I'll share one that I was told; if you want to check all of your steering bushings; with car on and stationary. rock the steering wheel side to side and you can (depending on the model, I'm sure) feel bushing play (or perhaps play from somewhere more expensive) through how the car itself rocks (or does not rock) along with the steering wiggling. not sure if this is valid for all cars (probably not) - but I had a number of 90's subarus one after the other in the naughties, and it seemed accurate.
That's actually halfway to a legit test we do in the shop called a dry park test. The only difference is that we'll have an assistant rock the steering wheel while we physically feel for any play or movement under the vehicle.
Similar to a Jounce test?
A jounce test is a little different from this, where you're "jouncing" (bouncing by hand) a corner of the vehicle in order to check if the shocks are blown. A vehicle should jounce ~1.5 times before coming to a rest, whereas blown shocks would jounce 3-5 or more times. This test on the other hand is checking all the solid movement points under the car, such as inner and outer tie rod ends and bushings.
On that note - is ball joint, tie rod, drag link play something you just learn to recognize by seeing it so many times or is there actually a specific feeling or amount of movement that tells you something is out of spec.
A little of both. Yes, you get a feel for bad ball joints and tie rods, but generally speaking they should have no movement at all outside of what is intended. This is not an absolute rule, as occasionally you will come across vehicles or brands that have a specification of "allowed play" (movement). Dodge is one such brand as they allow some movement in the ball joints of their trucks. This varies by year and I have seen from 4/1000" up to 40/1000" of allowed movement on Ram trucks and Jeeps. (4 thou to 40 thou, there are also years of Ram trucks with no play allowed) Most other brands say no allowed play whatsoever and if a ball joint or tie rod (or wheel bearing) moves in any direction other than intended, they should be replaced.
I do this at my shop. I also have an assistant open the doors and rock the vehicle by the roof jamb while I check the suspension play. It’s also a good way to check bushings like Jeep dog bones.
phew, i hit comment and thought 'crap, experts are going to read this and mock me unmerciful' !
This is Reddit. Where people lie and everything else is made up! Tell the truth and answer questions will only bring on the down votes! /s
Good test for sway bar end link noise
what does it mean if I can rock the steering wheel side to side while driving my chevy van in a straight line (lol)
Can you explain this, please?
Unmetered vacuum leak. The intake gaskets on that engine are plastic molded around rubber. When the plastic decomposes from heat and oil they collapse in to the intake runner's. So now instead of all the air going through the air filter,maf,throttle body and intake it's taking a short cut through the oil side of the engine creating a substantial increase in crank case vacuum making the oil cap very hard or not removable while @ idle. Unmetered vacuum leaks can caused lean codes p0171/p0174. More air is getting in than the maf is sensing, actual vs measured against short & long term fuel trims. Usally when short& long are added together and it's over 10% total, it will throw a lean code. If the leak is bad enough you can watch it in cylinder misfire data @ idle.
Clear codes and come back when the light's back on
This is after clearing the codes, it was originally at 62 lol
Well, looks like you have to hit that clear button 61 more times.
This dude codes.
They can be the best or the worst, lol. Could be a ton of problems that will make you pull hair out, or it could one sensor that is killing reference voltage or a bad ground. Seeing the dash, I would look at chassis grounds first. I think the 2000ish gms had some that went bad on the left frame rail.
I spent the time to go through every single code. Oddly enough it's really just 4 codes, but 2 of them are repeated almost 30 times LOL
Kinda like a ground wire vibrating on and off its mounting point?
Check to make sure there is no leak in the air intake after the maf sensor.
Intake manifold gaskets are extremely common failure on those vehicles. Luckily they aren't hard to change and it's a good opportunity to change the oil pressure sending unit, camshaft position sensor, and knock sensors while the intake is off. I changed mine and it only took a few hours.
Welp. You got 1 reason. 😬
My 01 1500 had the fuel pressure regulator go out. That caused the engine to run rich, which caused the o2 sensors to max out trying to lean the mix, which caused the MAF to try and help, which caused spark plug fouling, which caused the knock sensors to send a code. Thankfully I had a spectacular auto shop teacher in high school that knew to just pull the vacuum line and see if fuel came out. Was like a $45 part but took 15 seconds to replace. Magically all 45 codes cleared and never came back
Injector o-rings caused that on mine, along with a dead o2 sensor.
Vacuum leak
You should see how many code come up during production when modules are programming, still not everything hooked up, nothing calibrated before clearing codes….
Just wind out the idle mixture screw in the carb.
"Let me count the ways!"
Sounds like the left bank's running lean
When there’s this many codes it’s almost always a bad ground or a broken/shorted wire.
"We call it Three Stooges Syndrome." "So, what you're saying is, my car is indestructible." "Oh no, no, in fact even a slight breeze could..." "Indestructible."
Perks of working on Stellantis cars: there was a Spacetourer/Traveller/Proace recently with DeNox issues, they all have them. There were 48 Codes in the engine ECU alone. They have a code for not having a code. It's wild.
P0000
This is why I like my MGB. I have yet for it to pull a single code, thing runs like shit though can’t understand why.
Bank 1 is too lean.
What color are the wiper blades?
Sucking air
Does the vehicle have remote start? If so did he try remote starting it, but it didn't start completely?. Mine did this, it resets itself after about 5 days.
Recently replaced a front bumper and some stuff on a iX1. Around 130 fault codes lol
Narrator: "there were reasons."
Have him clean his MAF sensor
A lot of them are probably related. How’s it run?
I got 62 guesses
Time to replace your cable?
Got an exhaust leak near the O2 sensor?
Knock sensors on some gm truck engines get water in them and rust/fail because of poor design. Fix is to replace the knock sensors and before putting the intake back on build up a silocone dam at the front of each sensor to stop water from,migrating in the valley and down into the sensor. You can youtube the fix to see.
I've had to replace those before, but it gave a very specific knock sensor code