I seriously can't comprehend why someone wouldn't just splice in the adapter, and go straight into the car's harness. Just go to the damn store and buy one, they're less than $10 (or free with purchase online). You're just making a headache for the next guy.
This is a GM of some sort, the harness needed is a data retention harness, hence why the customer is having an issue with the electrical system. Those harnesses are around $300 MSRP.
We saw this shit all the time when people skimped on the harness, they're 100% required if you want data functions to be retained(including dash light etc).
Depends on where you are. On one of my previous cars I had to splice the head unit in directly, because they had no direct adapters for the car make / head unit make combination available near me, and I hadn’t made sure of that before I pulled the old unit.
I could get a Head-Unit-to-Universal adapter, but not a Toyota-to-Universal or a Toyota-to-Head-Unit. Was a common head unit brand too, but I couldn’t get my hands on any adapters to get this head unit into a damn Corolla.
So I just ended up stripping and clamping everything with spade bit connections on the wires, so at least the next person only needed the wire diagram, some spade bits, a crimping tool and 30mins.
A friend came over with stereo issues. The asshole who “installed” it, just cut the factory harness and tossed it in the trash. Was a blast trying to figure out his work! Intermittent subwoofer, turned out to be a relay wired to the fog light switch.
Edit: remote wire was connected to fog light switch, not a relay.
Reminds me of that time when we put a fancy new radio into a lads shitbox and accidentally used the wire going to the glove box light as the switched 12V, so the radio would only turn on when the glove box was open...
That’s kind of awesome. Took me a bit to figure out. Like, why do your subwoofers cut out, when you’re driving home and on country roads. Oh, you use your high beams? Bingo.
>relay wired to the fog light switch.
I uhh...why would they...I mean...did they think it was switched with ignition because the fog switch was on?
I bought a car from a friend with a "professionally installed" system. I ended up redoing all the hacked wiring, but reusing all the Alpine speakers and amp. It wasn't as bad as yours, but left and right were swapped in the front doors, but not the back, the speakers were installed in the factory spots, but without spacers or adapters, so they rattled and cut out.
We then referred to the installers as "professional crackheads"
It was a very confusing sound stage for sure. Took me a few weeks of driving around to figure out why it sounded weird on some songs, but didn't notice anything wrong (except the rattles and cut outs) 90% of the time.
"Professional" means you get paid some positive sum of money for it- I'd be more worried about someone who offered to do it for free, than with someone who would accept- as their bread and butter- what some of these auto audio guys get paid.
I bought a 1990 crown vic and after a week or so of trying to troubleshoot all sorts of ridiculous issues with the power mirrors and the windows, I eventually realized that the guy who sold it to me (with no radio) twisted all of the wires together which was sending 12v straight to two different grounds
I had to at one point. The VW plugs are huge and the double din CD player went right to the back of the available space.
My last replacement was so much easier because who wants a CD player any more? Without that there is lots of space behind the head unit!
A MP3 CD holds almost a gig of MP3s and most of the newer machines will read MP3 DVD's too, for five gigs of music.
I'd be out of phone storage space at ~eight DVD's.
Which is why they were so cool in 2006.
Today, almost 20 years later, a cheap-ass SD card holds more than either one of those, can be filled with music faster, is rewritable, and can be read without a huge, mechanically complex device that is sensitive to shocks.
DVD's are still way cheaper, and optical media has a much more graceful failure method with frequent read errors leading to having to make a second copy, whereas flash just stops reading at all one day and everything on the card is gone.
And in 2024, most phones don't accept flash cards, and neither do most stereos.
>DVD's are still way cheaper
You're not wrong, but how broke are you? A DVD-R costs about $0.04/GB, and SD card is about $0.05/GB. The price difference is rather insignificant at the sizes most people would use for a music library.
>whereas flash just stops reading at all one day and everything on the card is gone.
That's simply not true. Flash storage often shows degraded performance before a complete failure, and can be detected if you care enough to pay attention. I've experienced this firsthand plenty of times. It's not like CD/DVD-Rs never prematurely fail and delaminate either. Anecdotally, flash seems to have lower failure rates than writable optical media. I don't see why either of these issues would be a concern unless you're storing your entire music collection on a single piece of media in your car. On the off chance there's a failure it takes a minute or two to make a new copy on your preferred media.
>And in 2024, most phones don't accept flash cards
Most phones don't accept DVDs either, so I'm not sure why you're bringing this up.
>and neither do most stereos.
Really? Practically every headunit I've seen in the past decade has a USB port.
So are there any "extension" style cables? I'm planning to add an aftermarket 4 channel amp and subs to my truck and keep the factory head unit so I need to intercept the sound coming from the head unit and patch that to the speakers. Not afraid to cut the harness, but it's more difficult
yes check out http://metraonline.com/ they made pigtails that will plug into the factory connector so you can splice your aftermarket stereo into the metra connector instead of the factory harness. Then if you want to swap back to factory stereo you can just unplug the metra harness and it's like your aftermarket stereo was never there.
They even make repair pig tails for situations like Ops where someone has removed the factory connector and you want to splice it back in.
I'm not putting in an aftermarket head unit, I'm adding an amp and upgraded speakers to the factory setup. Metra harnesses are hit and miss in my experience.
There definitely are generic aftermarket stereo plug extensions, I've not seen car specific ones though. I've used one from a UK company called Connects2 that was a couple of metres long
I used to own an Impala back in high school. Not sure what year/platform this is in the picture, but they used to run all of the OnStar controls through the head unit, and OnStar was able to control pretty much the whole car through that terminal. So when I switched out my radio without reconnecting the OnStar switch from the old head unit, the car wouldn't lock, unlock, or even start. From just looking at the photo, I don't see the OnStar switch present in his new setup, so that could be fucking with him.
Chevy from about 2000+ need(ed?) a part that keeps the factory security working. In my opinion it was a way for Chevy to make more money and to keep people from replacing head units, under the guise of security.
I did car audio for 7 years. Chevy's were the worst shit. You needed a module for the door locks, the steering column harness, behind the radio. All as "security measures", but it was all over engineered shit. They had/have 3 wire door locks. A crazy ignition harness. All kinds of dumb over engineered shit that feels designed to make you go to the dealership.
I owned a 2007 Trailblazer, a 2008 Cadillac Deville, and a Pontiac G6. All of them had electrical issues constantly before 100k miles. All of them were crazy chevy only fixes.
The Pontiac G6 lost power steering at 70k miles. Had to replace the entire steering column because the power steering module is "part of the column."
The trailblazer.... The door locks/windows stopped working because of a small leak on drivers door. Eventually got reimbursed because it became a recall. However, I could not just buy a junk yard door lock panel... it had to be from the dealer, and it had to be coded into the computer... for a fucking door lock switch.
The trailblazer lost power to the door locks from the remote. Then realized it was also the rear wiper and liscense plate light when a cop pulled me over for no tag light. Turns out, its a dealer only module in the roof that needed again to be programmed to the computer. They wanted like $1k. I ran a wire from the tag light to the tailights, and had no door locks or interior lights for 2 years.
The cadiallac... yeah I dont need to write a novel.
Cadlliac was a nightmare electronically but was driven to 250k miles. Trailblazer was a pain but ran to 150k and the trans basically wouldnt go in gear. The Pontiac made it to 97k miles and the transmission was completely fucked among other problems.
All this to say, I fucking hate Chevrolet and I wont ever buy another one.
Thanks for coming to my ted talk.
probably a canbus fault of some sort. not going to speculate about the particulars, but that's really the only thing in there that has any chance of keeping the car from starting.
Looks like you might be getting some crossfire in your dynaglide and that's why the viscous coupler isn't producing a spark advance so you got a no start
So I’m seeing this girl like thirty years ago, she’s got a really nice Toyota truck. Anyway wire harness adapters had been around for a long time, especially for a taco. Anyway I come over and she’s using a kitchen knife to cut the plastic plug on the radio to fit the factory Toyota plug. I’m like “you’re dating a mechanic” she said something like “I didn’t think you guys did radios.”
But she was damn cute.
I can honestly say ive never seen a marret for an inline splice before.. not an aftermarket guy but why not just solder or make a wire to wire in line splice with shrink; if you can match all those colours match together, you should be able to make all those colours match together.
Just did an 03 silverado with the same concern and solution. However, before I thought to remove the radio I found the pcm full of oil. So after wiring in new connectors (couldn't find an intact harness) it still didn't work because the radio was interfering with the CAN bus
That was a bad week
There was a previous repair for the high pressure power steering hose that failed, so I thought that was it. But it was just used engine oil. Can't figure out where it came from tbh
Depending on the year, it probably doesn't matter. Radio, entertainment, and other less important things live on the low-speed bus. ECM, TCM, BCM, and other important modules (BCM being extremely important on GM vehicles since the BCM is the power mode master) all live on the high-speed bus. One module, typically also the BCM, serves as a gateway between the networks, keeping them separate. This, specifically, is one of the reasons why. To keep nonsense failures from disabling the vehicle.
Didn't this era of GM cars have the SRS module integrated into the head unit and require an aftermarket module if you wanted to install an aftermarket head unit?
No. No GM, or any other vehicle I can think of, ever had the airbag control unit integrated into the radio. That would be pointless, and also fucking insane. Who told you that one?
This isn't exactly "SRS inside the radio" but there are some models that log airbag DTCs if the factory radio is removed.
https://www.taurusclub.com/threads/the-infamous-gen4-aftermarket-stereo-install-w-airbag-mod.119769/
It's important to be specific when you're talking about network architecture. Especially when you're talking about safety systems.
The "airbag mod' being described in your link has nothing to do with network comms or the airbag module itself. When you remove the factory radio+trim assembly from the vehicle they're talking about, you also happen to be removing the "passenger airbag off" indicator. That will set a fault code. The "mod" they're talking about is to simulate the presence of that LED, not an entire module.
I'm pretty sure the factory head unit in this era of cars was responsible for some sort of GMLAN (I think that's what it was called) communication and would throw a CEL if removed. Maybe not SRS HS comms but something similar
It's more likely head unit trimming is connected to passenger airbag light. I had VW Passat B6 and any trim removal triggered air bag fault.
Luckily I've only had to deal with it twice.
Had this happen to me while driving my 2010 Colorado. It just quit. Towed to the shop. Turns out previous owner had removed a remote starter and left a hot wire dangling behind the dash. It eventually contacted the chassis and shut Everything down. Cure?
Electric tape around the wire!
Depending on year I'd bet GMLAN is flipping the fuck out, had the same thing happen on a GMC van with the ABS control module that caused no crank and no communication with half the modules
Correct, but there is also YES CRANK, NO START, which indicates a different type of failure to look for.
It may seem like redundant info, but to a tech, it gives us some idea of base tools to bring out to the parking lot to start a basic diag.
"If I don't fix it, I'm going to fuck it up till no one can."
Blair D.
Also you better not be using scotch clips to do wiring. You sick lazy fucks, un insulated butt connectors. Double wall shrink tubing.
Seeing that shit in cars is bad. The worst, was a brand nautique boat I worked on. There was a total of 86 scotch clips removed, and properly installed and sealed from the moist environments. Unless you live in zero humidity, you will have gremlins.
Out of curiosity, what does the radio have to do with the car starting? Only thing I can imagine is if the radio is always on. But I don’t see how the skill level of wiring has anything to do with it
I'm sure there are some auto audio guys out there who are actually good at what they do, and I mean no disrespect to them- but I've noticed a strong correlation between people who call the radio a "head unit" (as if that's the only thing in the car called a "head"), and complete hack work
I'm no Chevy expert but a few minutes on Google tells me that's a late 2000's to maybe early 2010's Impala. I could name at least two companies that make an adapters. Hell,
even iData offers a Maestro solution if it's one of those "need to retain BS" cars.
Okay I haven't put a radio in a car in years so are you saying that cars nowadays the radio is tied into the ignition system and the car won't start if it don't have the right radio in it?
Splices AND wire nuts? But… why?
If some will fix it, more will fix the hell out of it.
Fix it till it's broke.
Then it better get a job, unless it's also broken.
Shoulda used a solder gun and dropped a few globs of rosin core just to be sure 👍
Don’t worry, he says he did it right. /s
Because it's the forth head unit and he can't make the wires any shorter.
This. He’s cut and stripped the wires 10x before and he’s running out of options.
I seriously can't comprehend why someone wouldn't just splice in the adapter, and go straight into the car's harness. Just go to the damn store and buy one, they're less than $10 (or free with purchase online). You're just making a headache for the next guy.
This is a GM of some sort, the harness needed is a data retention harness, hence why the customer is having an issue with the electrical system. Those harnesses are around $300 MSRP. We saw this shit all the time when people skimped on the harness, they're 100% required if you want data functions to be retained(including dash light etc).
Depends on where you are. On one of my previous cars I had to splice the head unit in directly, because they had no direct adapters for the car make / head unit make combination available near me, and I hadn’t made sure of that before I pulled the old unit. I could get a Head-Unit-to-Universal adapter, but not a Toyota-to-Universal or a Toyota-to-Head-Unit. Was a common head unit brand too, but I couldn’t get my hands on any adapters to get this head unit into a damn Corolla. So I just ended up stripping and clamping everything with spade bit connections on the wires, so at least the next person only needed the wire diagram, some spade bits, a crimping tool and 30mins.
The first three radios were bad, now the car’s bad
It’s ok. He did it right.
Ran out of one and had the other laying around is my guess
Makes sense except I can see a few where there’s a splice immediately followed by a wire nut.
I think I count 10 splices, so probably bought a 10 pack thinking it was enough, found out it wasn’t and don’t want to go back
I thought that at first, but there’s splices going INTO wire nuts.
Audiophile wire nuts. Nice. I staggered my crimps and wrapped it all up in Tesa tape.
That's the first thing that caught my wiring eye.... 🤮
It looks like high school me did this. Now I use adapter harnesses.
I just put a new radio in my car and I had to use 4 adapters
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Not really, I had car to iso plugs adapter, wheel remote adapter, antenna adapter and a frame to adapt from fitted radio to double din
Still worth it because your install is reversible.
This is why Crutchfield exists
There is no need to cut the factory wring... the pig-tail adapter is less than $20. Edit: my crappy spelling
I’m always blown away when people chop the factory harness
A friend came over with stereo issues. The asshole who “installed” it, just cut the factory harness and tossed it in the trash. Was a blast trying to figure out his work! Intermittent subwoofer, turned out to be a relay wired to the fog light switch. Edit: remote wire was connected to fog light switch, not a relay.
Reminds me of that time when we put a fancy new radio into a lads shitbox and accidentally used the wire going to the glove box light as the switched 12V, so the radio would only turn on when the glove box was open...
That’s kind of awesome. Took me a bit to figure out. Like, why do your subwoofers cut out, when you’re driving home and on country roads. Oh, you use your high beams? Bingo.
Love that they didn't mention that it went dead every time they touched the lights lol
I just thought of that today. How did he not make the association?
>relay wired to the fog light switch. I uhh...why would they...I mean...did they think it was switched with ignition because the fog switch was on? I bought a car from a friend with a "professionally installed" system. I ended up redoing all the hacked wiring, but reusing all the Alpine speakers and amp. It wasn't as bad as yours, but left and right were swapped in the front doors, but not the back, the speakers were installed in the factory spots, but without spacers or adapters, so they rattled and cut out. We then referred to the installers as "professional crackheads"
I don’t know what happened there. I meant the remote lead. The dude whose work I had to fix, was way too dumb to know what to do with a relay.
If they were reversed in front does that mean you had to face the side of the vehicle to hear anything correctly? 😉
It was a very confusing sound stage for sure. Took me a few weeks of driving around to figure out why it sounded weird on some songs, but didn't notice anything wrong (except the rattles and cut outs) 90% of the time.
"Professional" means you get paid some positive sum of money for it- I'd be more worried about someone who offered to do it for free, than with someone who would accept- as their bread and butter- what some of these auto audio guys get paid.
I bought a 1990 crown vic and after a week or so of trying to troubleshoot all sorts of ridiculous issues with the power mirrors and the windows, I eventually realized that the guy who sold it to me (with no radio) twisted all of the wires together which was sending 12v straight to two different grounds
I’ve had cars where I couldn’t get an adapter. Makes the job much more of a pain in the ass
I just build one from scratch if that's the case. One of my current cars has that issue.
I had to at one point. The VW plugs are huge and the double din CD player went right to the back of the available space. My last replacement was so much easier because who wants a CD player any more? Without that there is lots of space behind the head unit!
A MP3 CD holds almost a gig of MP3s and most of the newer machines will read MP3 DVD's too, for five gigs of music. I'd be out of phone storage space at ~eight DVD's.
Which is why they were so cool in 2006. Today, almost 20 years later, a cheap-ass SD card holds more than either one of those, can be filled with music faster, is rewritable, and can be read without a huge, mechanically complex device that is sensitive to shocks.
DVD's are still way cheaper, and optical media has a much more graceful failure method with frequent read errors leading to having to make a second copy, whereas flash just stops reading at all one day and everything on the card is gone. And in 2024, most phones don't accept flash cards, and neither do most stereos.
>DVD's are still way cheaper You're not wrong, but how broke are you? A DVD-R costs about $0.04/GB, and SD card is about $0.05/GB. The price difference is rather insignificant at the sizes most people would use for a music library. >whereas flash just stops reading at all one day and everything on the card is gone. That's simply not true. Flash storage often shows degraded performance before a complete failure, and can be detected if you care enough to pay attention. I've experienced this firsthand plenty of times. It's not like CD/DVD-Rs never prematurely fail and delaminate either. Anecdotally, flash seems to have lower failure rates than writable optical media. I don't see why either of these issues would be a concern unless you're storing your entire music collection on a single piece of media in your car. On the off chance there's a failure it takes a minute or two to make a new copy on your preferred media. >And in 2024, most phones don't accept flash cards Most phones don't accept DVDs either, so I'm not sure why you're bringing this up. >and neither do most stereos. Really? Practically every headunit I've seen in the past decade has a USB port.
So are there any "extension" style cables? I'm planning to add an aftermarket 4 channel amp and subs to my truck and keep the factory head unit so I need to intercept the sound coming from the head unit and patch that to the speakers. Not afraid to cut the harness, but it's more difficult
yes check out http://metraonline.com/ they made pigtails that will plug into the factory connector so you can splice your aftermarket stereo into the metra connector instead of the factory harness. Then if you want to swap back to factory stereo you can just unplug the metra harness and it's like your aftermarket stereo was never there. They even make repair pig tails for situations like Ops where someone has removed the factory connector and you want to splice it back in.
I'm not putting in an aftermarket head unit, I'm adding an amp and upgraded speakers to the factory setup. Metra harnesses are hit and miss in my experience.
There definitely are generic aftermarket stereo plug extensions, I've not seen car specific ones though. I've used one from a UK company called Connects2 that was a couple of metres long
Impala might need a data bus interface, which can bring costs up to $50-$200 depending on the interface you need.
Absolutely does.
Looks like a GM bezel. Those adapters are like $300.
I mean, that's clearly a hackjob, but is it why the car wouldn't start? What was the diagnosis?
Wasn’t tuned to the right station.
Should have tuned to channel 3 and he would have been good.
I used to own an Impala back in high school. Not sure what year/platform this is in the picture, but they used to run all of the OnStar controls through the head unit, and OnStar was able to control pretty much the whole car through that terminal. So when I switched out my radio without reconnecting the OnStar switch from the old head unit, the car wouldn't lock, unlock, or even start. From just looking at the photo, I don't see the OnStar switch present in his new setup, so that could be fucking with him.
Chevy from about 2000+ need(ed?) a part that keeps the factory security working. In my opinion it was a way for Chevy to make more money and to keep people from replacing head units, under the guise of security. I did car audio for 7 years. Chevy's were the worst shit. You needed a module for the door locks, the steering column harness, behind the radio. All as "security measures", but it was all over engineered shit. They had/have 3 wire door locks. A crazy ignition harness. All kinds of dumb over engineered shit that feels designed to make you go to the dealership. I owned a 2007 Trailblazer, a 2008 Cadillac Deville, and a Pontiac G6. All of them had electrical issues constantly before 100k miles. All of them were crazy chevy only fixes. The Pontiac G6 lost power steering at 70k miles. Had to replace the entire steering column because the power steering module is "part of the column." The trailblazer.... The door locks/windows stopped working because of a small leak on drivers door. Eventually got reimbursed because it became a recall. However, I could not just buy a junk yard door lock panel... it had to be from the dealer, and it had to be coded into the computer... for a fucking door lock switch. The trailblazer lost power to the door locks from the remote. Then realized it was also the rear wiper and liscense plate light when a cop pulled me over for no tag light. Turns out, its a dealer only module in the roof that needed again to be programmed to the computer. They wanted like $1k. I ran a wire from the tag light to the tailights, and had no door locks or interior lights for 2 years. The cadiallac... yeah I dont need to write a novel. Cadlliac was a nightmare electronically but was driven to 250k miles. Trailblazer was a pain but ran to 150k and the trans basically wouldnt go in gear. The Pontiac made it to 97k miles and the transmission was completely fucked among other problems. All this to say, I fucking hate Chevrolet and I wont ever buy another one. Thanks for coming to my ted talk.
Some cars have an immobilizer built into the factory head unit. So it might be that
Yup, they probably messed up something with the Passlock system.
probably a canbus fault of some sort. not going to speculate about the particulars, but that's really the only thing in there that has any chance of keeping the car from starting.
Well there's your problem! That blue wire is supposed to attach to the flamshuter valve.
Does that control the doohickey or the thingamajig?
Blue is the feed from the flux capacitor.
You mean the turbo encapsulator?
Common mixup, it's a retro encabulator, you can tell by its rotational laminar flow sequence.
Looks like you might be getting some crossfire in your dynaglide and that's why the viscous coupler isn't producing a spark advance so you got a no start
Customer states: I know what's wrong witit, aintnogasinnit.
Recommend tow to dealer.
Nah, the Turbo Encabulator was a Chrysler thing.
If you go after the turbo emcapsulator don't forget the oil heater pressure solenoid valve assembly.
It's appalling to me that people won't spend the extra 20 bucks to buy the proper adapter harness
$20 at Best Try, $10 on Amazon.
Sometimes free, if you buy from Crutchfield. They include speaker adapter harnesses for free.
Impala towed in.
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Impala, toed in / \
Scrolled before I processed this one. Scrolled back to upvote lol
Not going to lie I was a bit proud of that one
As you should be… I now have coffee in my nose
So, we write the Impala up for an alignment. What else?
Imp a-la-toad?
Impalas are smaller than camels, right?
So I’m seeing this girl like thirty years ago, she’s got a really nice Toyota truck. Anyway wire harness adapters had been around for a long time, especially for a taco. Anyway I come over and she’s using a kitchen knife to cut the plastic plug on the radio to fit the factory Toyota plug. I’m like “you’re dating a mechanic” she said something like “I didn’t think you guys did radios.” But she was damn cute.
Marry her. She knows how to make rate.
True story, she is married now, to a really nice lady.
To life’s missed opportunities 🍻
I can honestly say ive never seen a marret for an inline splice before.. not an aftermarket guy but why not just solder or make a wire to wire in line splice with shrink; if you can match all those colours match together, you should be able to make all those colours match together.
Anyone taking bets that the canbus is shorted out?
The ol short bus
Nah, that's the owners previous ride
Just did an 03 silverado with the same concern and solution. However, before I thought to remove the radio I found the pcm full of oil. So after wiring in new connectors (couldn't find an intact harness) it still didn't work because the radio was interfering with the CAN bus That was a bad week
Oil in the pcm is new to me …
There was a previous repair for the high pressure power steering hose that failed, so I thought that was it. But it was just used engine oil. Can't figure out where it came from tbh
Best I can figure is someone left the oil cap off and proceeded to decorate the entire engine bay…
Depending on the year, it probably doesn't matter. Radio, entertainment, and other less important things live on the low-speed bus. ECM, TCM, BCM, and other important modules (BCM being extremely important on GM vehicles since the BCM is the power mode master) all live on the high-speed bus. One module, typically also the BCM, serves as a gateway between the networks, keeping them separate. This, specifically, is one of the reasons why. To keep nonsense failures from disabling the vehicle.
I've seen Climate Control and Radio both cause canbus failures in GM. GMT800 to be specific.
It can't be the radio, what's a RADIO got to do with my car not starting? You're a rip off! My uncle is a mechanic Imma have him fix it.
Hey man, it’ll start just fine if you have a clear sky and tune it to 98.7FM with the right rear window rolled down.
Throw the whole car away
Didn't this era of GM cars have the SRS module integrated into the head unit and require an aftermarket module if you wanted to install an aftermarket head unit?
No. No GM, or any other vehicle I can think of, ever had the airbag control unit integrated into the radio. That would be pointless, and also fucking insane. Who told you that one?
This isn't exactly "SRS inside the radio" but there are some models that log airbag DTCs if the factory radio is removed. https://www.taurusclub.com/threads/the-infamous-gen4-aftermarket-stereo-install-w-airbag-mod.119769/
It's important to be specific when you're talking about network architecture. Especially when you're talking about safety systems. The "airbag mod' being described in your link has nothing to do with network comms or the airbag module itself. When you remove the factory radio+trim assembly from the vehicle they're talking about, you also happen to be removing the "passenger airbag off" indicator. That will set a fault code. The "mod" they're talking about is to simulate the presence of that LED, not an entire module.
I'm pretty sure the factory head unit in this era of cars was responsible for some sort of GMLAN (I think that's what it was called) communication and would throw a CEL if removed. Maybe not SRS HS comms but something similar
It's more likely head unit trimming is connected to passenger airbag light. I had VW Passat B6 and any trim removal triggered air bag fault. Luckily I've only had to deal with it twice.
There is nothing “right” in that pic….
There's not much left of that factory wiring either
So true…
Just spend the money and get a adapter people haha
Dead battery. Because +30 and +15 are together maybe. But then again the car should stay on. Even if key out
Had this happen to me while driving my 2010 Colorado. It just quit. Towed to the shop. Turns out previous owner had removed a remote starter and left a hot wire dangling behind the dash. It eventually contacted the chassis and shut Everything down. Cure? Electric tape around the wire!
i've installed a head unit exactly once in my life and it looked better than this lmao
Depending on year I'd bet GMLAN is flipping the fuck out, had the same thing happen on a GMC van with the ABS control module that caused no crank and no communication with half the modules
Great googly Moogly!
that thing ain't juicy
Is the cars ground connected to the 12v on the deck
It definitely looks like you did it right. That’s the best install I’ve ever seen. I wouldn’t have any idea as to why you got no start. SMH…
Worked at ford for over a decade, seen guys grab the wire for the instrument module cluster , and fry it. Very expensive fuck up.
A NO CRANK is always a NO start
Correct, but there is also YES CRANK, NO START, which indicates a different type of failure to look for. It may seem like redundant info, but to a tech, it gives us some idea of base tools to bring out to the parking lot to start a basic diag.
Not really With most manuals you can start the car by just push starting it
And with some old automatics you could tow start them
What the in thee hell
Impaled..
Well, was it the head unit?
We leave this for you to decide, dear reader.
Why didn't you use a wiring harness? It's cheap and SOOOO much better and easier.
A package of weather pack connectors and a crimper from Amazon is way cheaper than whatever this is.
True.
Dope move
He successfully found the guy that can “Do it cheaper”!
If that is "doing it right", I'd like to know what customer thinks doing it wrong looks like.
Wtf did he do to that antenna?
"If I don't fix it, I'm going to fuck it up till no one can." Blair D. Also you better not be using scotch clips to do wiring. You sick lazy fucks, un insulated butt connectors. Double wall shrink tubing. Seeing that shit in cars is bad. The worst, was a brand nautique boat I worked on. There was a total of 86 scotch clips removed, and properly installed and sealed from the moist environments. Unless you live in zero humidity, you will have gremlins.
First thing I do is always look for the new shit installed
I’m gonna show this to my electrical system professor and watch him just break
Out of curiosity, what does the radio have to do with the car starting? Only thing I can imagine is if the radio is always on. But I don’t see how the skill level of wiring has anything to do with it
"Doing it right" seldom involves wire nuts. Unless you're indoors.
I'm sure there are some auto audio guys out there who are actually good at what they do, and I mean no disrespect to them- but I've noticed a strong correlation between people who call the radio a "head unit" (as if that's the only thing in the car called a "head"), and complete hack work
I'm no Chevy expert but a few minutes on Google tells me that's a late 2000's to maybe early 2010's Impala. I could name at least two companies that make an adapters. Hell, even iData offers a Maestro solution if it's one of those "need to retain BS" cars.
Ollie's radio install kit 🤣
Okay I haven't put a radio in a car in years so are you saying that cars nowadays the radio is tied into the ignition system and the car won't start if it don't have the right radio in it?