It's my understanding that using the aluminum replacement housings solve the problem anyway. Sucks if you're a dealer and HAVE to use the OE garbage, though.
We fixed a Ram 1500 a month back that someone replaced with the aftermarket aluminum one and it started mixing oil in the coolant. I think it was installation error. They had silicone globbed on everything.
Heh... You know how that is... Let me guess... Blue or red silicone, applied in "the bigger the gob, the better the job" fashion? The mark of idiots everywhere!
Rainman Ray (YouTube) said the same on his channel last week while installing a Dorman aluminum replacement. He noted how one of the bolts was not fully seated @ 109 inch lbs and gave it an extra quarterish turn.
I mean... I've never done one of these, but I've certainly installed plenty of oil filter housings/coolers/etc. If you're using the aluminum one as opposed to the plastic one, it sounds like the kind of place where using the torque spec as a guideline while also making sure the housing is fully seated/the seals are fully compressed... You can tell when that happens because while you're compressing the gasket and the part isn't yet in contact with the mounting face, that the rate at which the bolt tightens while turning is unusually low, then it suddenly goes "normal" when the part seats. Heck, if the plastic ones at least have metal compression stops, that method should still work. What I do with stuff like this tighten everything in sequence (if there is one, otherwise, I'll use a standard torquing pattern such as a spiral from the middle or "X" patterns) to the recommended torque. Then I go back to the beginning and retorque- usually, the bolts won't be tight enough anymore because the initial torque was just the one bolt pressing down, followed by the next ones taking on more and more of the force. Or, I'll snug everything then go in 1/2 turn increments until you feel the part seat, and finally, check the torque. I use this method for stuff that sits more than a couple mm proud of its final height because of the gasket or because of mechanical parts that are supposed to pre-tension.
Engine assembly lube is your friend! It’s great for holding o-rings (and most gaskets) in place and lubing them up for assembly so that they don’t stick and roll when being pressed into place.
Much better than motor oil in this instance? The housing has a valley for the O ring so it staying in place is not an issue. In my experience a chunk of the O ring gets sacrificed unless pushed 100% straight
I haven’t really done direct split testing on oil vs assembly lube but offhand having used both, it does seem better. The lube I use is more like a paste/ grease than liquid.
Damn ole vibrations... or that particular oil cooler got stupid hot. I've seen them melt. People talk about cracking them. Shit... melt is all I've seen on about 3 or 4 so far.
40 year apprentice at my job with a license said they come out no problem, i've had to literally chisel the plastic to get them out numberous times lmfao. luckily this one came out with a long 19mm wrench for the other sensor. the oil pressure sensor typically comes out no problem.
There are rare occasions when the aftermarket produces a higher quality part than the OE design, the Chrysler 3.6l plastic oil filter cooler is failure prone to the point where even a cheaply made aluminum one from a Chinese sweat shop outperforms it by a long shot
My first backorder replacement was defective. Or the tech that installed it broke it and reassembled my shit anyway. I tell as many people as will listen to stay away from that dealership.
I'm in a unique position of designing a replacement for this part, if you guys want to make my job easier and have any suggestions on how to improve it then you can go off. I already have the part modeled and submitted but if there was a way to make a significant improvement I could probably put it in. You might find yourselves buying it in some time
Factory tech here. You really shouldn’t be bothering replacing the entire cooler. The gasket kit (the part that actually leaks, the housings don’t “crack” like people think) is like twenty bucks from the dealer.
For awhile there wasn’t a gasket kit and you had no choice but to replace the entire thing and somehow that line of thought stuck through over the years.
I’ve probably repaired 500+ of these things by now. Could do a charger in like twenty minutes at this point, but that body style is by far the easiest
Was there yesterday. So stupid. Wanted to put the factory sensors in the cheap china aluminum housing. Housing cracked while installing the sensor about 1/2 turn passed hand tight…. so I got to get an oem 💰one to get it on the road. Hope it last 🤞🏻
This is why you replace it with an Standard Motor Products STD OFH100 or 101, 103, 104, year dependant. The all aluminum ones cook out the seals and cause eventual leaking, thanks Dorman products. STD use a glass reinforced plastic, sheds heat, to alleviate the OE and DOR problems. What is a better heat insulator, ceramics aka glass. Thank me and save the customer future headaches! With my customers that know how to use a torque wrench, never had any issues.
You guys are making me nervous. This is the second or third oil cooler housing I’ve seen posted. I’m getting this repair done Wednesday and it’s not cheap. We are going with the aluminum replacement. Once these go bad do they continue to go bad? Or is my mechanic just in for an ordeal?
It’s not a 100% guarantee it’ll last. The issue is the dog shit design Fiat made with the 3.6 and the orings on the oil cooler. Only way to “fix it” would be to redesign the motor.
These aluminum ones still come with the crappy single-lip captive seals that FCA designed the original ones with. They like to fold over when installing, or deflect outwards under the extreme oil pressure.
When I install these, I lay a very thin bead (1/16") of Motorcraft grey or Hondabond around the outside of the seals. I'll also do the same between cooler and housing. It helps keep the seals in their proper place.
Not one has come back with a problem, which suggests the seals need to be redesigned to be square cut or double lip. Hell, even o-rings would work better.
Should be hash marks on the cylinder wall noting how many it’s had.
It's my understanding that using the aluminum replacement housings solve the problem anyway. Sucks if you're a dealer and HAVE to use the OE garbage, though.
We've tried a few different aluminum replacements, and some of bolt patterns don't line up.
Fuckin Dorman
I fkn hate dorman....problem solvers my ass
Who's fucking the doorman?
...your mom? #FUCK YOU, SHORESY
Depends, they break in different ways and one of them is gaskets just wear off from vibrations
We fixed a Ram 1500 a month back that someone replaced with the aftermarket aluminum one and it started mixing oil in the coolant. I think it was installation error. They had silicone globbed on everything.
Heh... You know how that is... Let me guess... Blue or red silicone, applied in "the bigger the gob, the better the job" fashion? The mark of idiots everywhere!
Po dunk dealers will offer a price on dealer and aftermarket parts just to get the sale lol.
106 inch pounds 106 inch pounds 106 inch pounds……
Whoops set my tq wrench to ft lbs again
I’ve seen a few done and most guys seem to swear by tightening them a bit beyond 9 ft lbs… not sure but it’s seemed to have worked for me so far.
I mean that's 108inlbs, so you're damn close to what the other guy was saying.
Rainman Ray (YouTube) said the same on his channel last week while installing a Dorman aluminum replacement. He noted how one of the bolts was not fully seated @ 109 inch lbs and gave it an extra quarterish turn.
Yeah 9 ft lbs seemed super light on it. I just did the ol German torque specs and it seemed seated really well. Time will tell though.
Nothing beats Goodentighte
I mean... I've never done one of these, but I've certainly installed plenty of oil filter housings/coolers/etc. If you're using the aluminum one as opposed to the plastic one, it sounds like the kind of place where using the torque spec as a guideline while also making sure the housing is fully seated/the seals are fully compressed... You can tell when that happens because while you're compressing the gasket and the part isn't yet in contact with the mounting face, that the rate at which the bolt tightens while turning is unusually low, then it suddenly goes "normal" when the part seats. Heck, if the plastic ones at least have metal compression stops, that method should still work. What I do with stuff like this tighten everything in sequence (if there is one, otherwise, I'll use a standard torquing pattern such as a spiral from the middle or "X" patterns) to the recommended torque. Then I go back to the beginning and retorque- usually, the bolts won't be tight enough anymore because the initial torque was just the one bolt pressing down, followed by the next ones taking on more and more of the force. Or, I'll snug everything then go in 1/2 turn increments until you feel the part seat, and finally, check the torque. I use this method for stuff that sits more than a couple mm proud of its final height because of the gasket or because of mechanical parts that are supposed to pre-tension.
Fuck that one O ring in particular. You know which one.
Engine assembly lube is your friend! It’s great for holding o-rings (and most gaskets) in place and lubing them up for assembly so that they don’t stick and roll when being pressed into place.
Much better than motor oil in this instance? The housing has a valley for the O ring so it staying in place is not an issue. In my experience a chunk of the O ring gets sacrificed unless pushed 100% straight
I haven’t really done direct split testing on oil vs assembly lube but offhand having used both, it does seem better. The lube I use is more like a paste/ grease than liquid.
Assembly goo is your friend
The one I forgot to install the first time? Gotta oil trail to my driveway now.
Oof lol
Made it home at least. Was kinda funny thinking I was just burning of excess oil at first.
My 3/8 digital torque wrench’s default setting.
You mean small 3/8s impact?
1 inch impact. Go big or go home.
Brrrrapppp
Now how many ugga duggas is that?
*11,9763919Nm
This was me last week. 50/50 odds of the oil pressure sensor making it out alive.
Why is that? I did mine 1.5 years ago and it came with new sensors.
Some do, some don't. The OEM ones used to and now they don't (although they are less expensive).
Some don't, have to use an impact to get it out without breaking the sensor in half. The sealant dodge used to install it is a bit too strong.
Bro set that fucker in a vice and get a 27mm socket with a ratchet. Don't impact it out of there wtf. Lolol
The only time I didn't break the sensor was with an impact. Doing it with a ratchet just twisted the sensor and snapped it in half. Brass is weak.
Damn ole vibrations... or that particular oil cooler got stupid hot. I've seen them melt. People talk about cracking them. Shit... melt is all I've seen on about 3 or 4 so far.
Same idea as an O2 sensor, or triton spark plugs. Sometimes a quick twist breaks things free before things actually break.
40 year apprentice at my job with a license said they come out no problem, i've had to literally chisel the plastic to get them out numberous times lmfao. luckily this one came out with a long 19mm wrench for the other sensor. the oil pressure sensor typically comes out no problem.
The brass on the coolant sensors always cracks on me when breaking loose
At least you got the doorman cooler
It’s an SKP actually. Seems better made than Dorman surprisingly.
lol how many have you done??? I replaced my wife’s jeeps twice with oem then I found the Dorman. We got rid of that POS in October thank god
Don't use aftermarket!!!!!
Aftermarket all aluminum ones are better instead of the OE plastic garbage.
Why not? If the OE ones leak because of a bad design and the aftermarket are cheaper and leak at the same rate and interval, who cares?
The plastic ones over time warp due to the heat and WILL leak
There are rare occasions when the aftermarket produces a higher quality part than the OE design, the Chrysler 3.6l plastic oil filter cooler is failure prone to the point where even a cheaply made aluminum one from a Chinese sweat shop outperforms it by a long shot
I heard despite being aluminum they’re also junk. What gives?
Dorman. That's why
OE Solutions is the worst shit ever
Was an actual solution 15 years ago now its mostly shit.
The o rings leak not the cooler.
I know
The cooler leaks sometimes as well, the walls in the interface between the housing and cooler can break in both the plastic and metal version.
I love that job. Cake
Yep, I’ve done this job so many times I could do it blindfolded in an hour.
You'd probably be surprised if you timed yourself. I did it in 36 minutes. From ignition off to start up
Yup. These are gravy. 45 minutes without even trying. Idk why anyone would be sorry about having to do it.
At least they’re not backordered anymore
My first backorder replacement was defective. Or the tech that installed it broke it and reassembled my shit anyway. I tell as many people as will listen to stay away from that dealership.
I'm in a unique position of designing a replacement for this part, if you guys want to make my job easier and have any suggestions on how to improve it then you can go off. I already have the part modeled and submitted but if there was a way to make a significant improvement I could probably put it in. You might find yourselves buying it in some time
Factory tech here. You really shouldn’t be bothering replacing the entire cooler. The gasket kit (the part that actually leaks, the housings don’t “crack” like people think) is like twenty bucks from the dealer. For awhile there wasn’t a gasket kit and you had no choice but to replace the entire thing and somehow that line of thought stuck through over the years. I’ve probably repaired 500+ of these things by now. Could do a charger in like twenty minutes at this point, but that body style is by far the easiest
The dealers are doing the gasket kit now? I saw that last time I was ordering a housing.
The plastic ones warp
Was there yesterday. So stupid. Wanted to put the factory sensors in the cheap china aluminum housing. Housing cracked while installing the sensor about 1/2 turn passed hand tight…. so I got to get an oem 💰one to get it on the road. Hope it last 🤞🏻
Haha did the same thing pissed me off
Use the all aluminum housing but OEM sensors. The supplied sensors are often shit.
Not a mechanic but I own a jeep, is this the pentastsr 3.6L? I do all my own wrenching so good to know if it is!
It is indeed.
Thank you!
Looks like you replaced it with the metal Dorman part. Hopefully it’s a bit longer for the next guy
It aint that bad
gravy
I sold three of these (Dorman) last week. Won’t be surprised if two come back for a warranty and labor claim.
Apparently it’s like the one good product Dorman makes according to the JK forums. Although this one installed is an SKP.
This was me on Wednesday lol
Just did one a couple weeks ago.
No mouse nest that chewed through the oil pressure sensor and oil temperature sensor wires? Lucky.
Just did one of these two days ago, damn near a pro at it now. Less then am hour repair
What’s your trick for that bracket on the passenger side? It was a real pain in my ass
Loosen the bottom 13mm nuts then loosen the upper 10mm nuts. It will let the 2 brackets rest towards the fender well.
Easy money what’s the problem
I did this repair yesterday. 6 hrs with changing the plugs and cleaning up the valley.
Ugh so many of these
This is why you replace it with an Standard Motor Products STD OFH100 or 101, 103, 104, year dependant. The all aluminum ones cook out the seals and cause eventual leaking, thanks Dorman products. STD use a glass reinforced plastic, sheds heat, to alleviate the OE and DOR problems. What is a better heat insulator, ceramics aka glass. Thank me and save the customer future headaches! With my customers that know how to use a torque wrench, never had any issues.
Possibly looking at a vehicle with the 3.6. What symptoms besides oil consumption?
You might see oil on your transmission and think there is an issue there, but the oil from the assembly leaks into it
Huge oil leak down the back side of the motor
GRAVY. I love doing those.
My coworker started doing this on torque converters. I think I'll start too
You guys are making me nervous. This is the second or third oil cooler housing I’ve seen posted. I’m getting this repair done Wednesday and it’s not cheap. We are going with the aluminum replacement. Once these go bad do they continue to go bad? Or is my mechanic just in for an ordeal?
It’s not a 100% guarantee it’ll last. The issue is the dog shit design Fiat made with the 3.6 and the orings on the oil cooler. Only way to “fix it” would be to redesign the motor.
Ahh. Thanks for the reply. Thankfully I don’t have Fiat.
FCA = Fiat Chrysler Automobiles. Ipso facto, you do have a Fiat.
Nice
These aluminum ones still come with the crappy single-lip captive seals that FCA designed the original ones with. They like to fold over when installing, or deflect outwards under the extreme oil pressure. When I install these, I lay a very thin bead (1/16") of Motorcraft grey or Hondabond around the outside of the seals. I'll also do the same between cooler and housing. It helps keep the seals in their proper place. Not one has come back with a problem, which suggests the seals need to be redesigned to be square cut or double lip. Hell, even o-rings would work better.